Phil your sense of humor while quite dry is very funny! It's also quite refreshing to hear someone realize they aren't perfect and be humble. You have done an outstanding job on this grinder and should be exceptionally proud of your accomplishment!
Pour water into the tub. Add washing-up liquid and mix. You will reduce the surface tension of the water. Dust and sparks will fall to the bottom. I use this method at work.
Yes, I agree it works fine. Also consider placing a fine mesh tray 3 or 4mmmesh just below water level to catch items and stop waves forming in the tray
I can't believe how good you are at coming up with a system that actually works this well. That hinges and doesn't have to be taken on and off and adjusted to switch angles. Great work!!
Yesterday I was building my 2x72 belt grinder and thinking your channel haven’t updated for a while. And here we are!!! Love your contacts and videos. Keep it up 👍 make more video.
Good call on the enclosure for the VFD - metal dust is a common cause of death. I wouldn't worry about overheating, it looks like a big enough enclosure.
Have you considered maybe an electromagnet that switches on/off at the same time as the grinder? Which could be further improved by adding a vacuum that turns on for like 5-10 seconds after shutting off the grinder so it can all be removed every time you finish grinding. That's the method of spark/dust collection/control that I've been most leaning toward on my own 2x72" grinder build
if the sheetmetal rattles or buzzes, you could slip some clear hose over the posts to dampen noise? Also an old natural hair paint brush (plastic paint brushes might melt?) would stop any more residual sparks from getting past the rollers
I think it buzzes a little but if there's one thing this machine isn't it's quiet.. You don't really notice it through the infernal noise that comes from the belt going around at over 100km/h
Please tell us Phil, a little bit about how you came to gain such skills. Machine school? Just hands on? Mentoring under past masters?.You set an incredible standard to follow which for this ‘greenie' seems nearly impossible. Your work and comments guide tool selection. Would love to build a similar grinder. Oh ya, mine works fine but would never get through the door were it being compared to yours, which I might add is almost too nice to use. (I said almost....LOL). Would love to build one with an eye toward yours but the time required is a huge factor and the one I have does work to my satisfaction even if it doesn’t remotely reflect your skills and talent..I best just admire what you do and press on. Keep up the outstanding work. Thanks for sharing.
I mostly taught myself by watching other UA-cam machinsts like ToT (I guess you could almost call this mentoring) and just learning by doing - and honestly I'm probably not as good at it as you might think ;) When I first watched machining videos I was also very impressed, but as with everything, once you start getting into it the fog starts to lift and things become more clear and things that formerly seemed impressive turn out not to be that complicated after all. I'd say it's mostly about patience, curiosity and taking the time to get some experience, but not a skill you need some kind of amazing talent for. I'd say almost everyone can learn the machining required to make this grinder relatively quickly - it's mostly just relatively basic operations, nothing super fancy. It's a big volume of work due to the sheer amount of parts and operations, but the operations and parts themselves are rarely complex (for example almost everything has square sides). There's only a few spot where you need to hit tight tolerances, and since everything is in individual small parts, if you mess one up, you can just start over with that part, which is what I like about the design - it lends itself to a "part by part" approach, which is how large complicated things are simplified - just taking it one piece at a time. If you make one part every weekend, you could be done in a year 😅 So if you have the equipment I'm sure you could make this if you take your time, but time you will need
The moving guards are pretty sweet. I’d put a small tray of water under the table to stop sparks bouncing out of the enclosure. Added bonus of being able to cool parts if needed.
This entire machine, core build, spark arrestor and all, is hands-down one of the BEST 2x72 belt grinders I have come across on UA-cam or otherwise.... I realize you don't know me, but coning from me, that's quite compliment, seriously. I more or less consider myself to be connoisseur of finely built belt grinders, if you will... I have also built more than a few bulletproof builds myself and if you look at my UA-cam profile you'll see that I have put together a few very extensive Playlists of all my favorite grinder builds on UA-cam... point being, this is a magnificent build, Jeremy Schit and Brian House may both make excellent grinders, but they ain't got "Schidt" on your build (see what I did there? Haha)... for real tho man, awesome build and awesome content, keep it up my friend! Cheers! - Jesse
Hi, very well and cleverly done. A real pleasure to see. Moreover for T-slots on the grinding table and his system of positioning, etc. Bravo ! For collecting dust, maybe I should add that collecting the maximum quantity of dust, just below the bottom front wheel, at the "source" of them, would alleviate the need of making a "full" chassis all around the sanding belt. I've seen buckets or big pipes (200 mm diameter may suffice) fulled with water and also vacuum air pipes, horizontally positioned at the "source" of dust. Last, I'll add some weight or another system (another clamps ?) for avoiding the sander to move if you push too much hard against him. Cheers from Marseille, France
Tolles video!! Du kannst auch ein kleines gewelltes Blech (oder auch ein gekantetes) mit Neodym Magneten darunter als Eisenpartikelfalle nutzen. Einfach zu herstellen und sammelt viel ein. Super mach weiter so....
Very special work, very protective to the utmost, but the new addition of the spark guard has destroyed the splendor of the device with this addition. The simplest way was to get rid of sparks by placing a bowl of water at the bottom of the device in which the sparks would fall. However, you are a genius.
Great idea. Beautiful workmanship. My observation is that some of the dust/sparks is getting recycled because it hits the bottom of your pan and reflects back upward into the belt. If there was a collection tube under the platten that might create add to the effectiveness. Thanks again for the great idea and setting the standard.
Interestingly, it actually helps to not clean the pan - after a short time, a pile of swarf starts to form under the platen, which seems to do a good job of "catching" and extinguishing further sparks. The dust actually gets so condensed you can just pick it up as one piece after some time and throw it in the trash. Overall I'm still quite happy with this about a year later - the dust that escapes is minimal, the only thing that would still be a big help is an air filter in close proximity, to clean the super-fine dust that floats away in the air and gets into your lungs
Great video and workmanship on both you tray and grinder. What I did to stop the sparks traveling around with the belt, was to fit a guard at the bottom of the belt. It would be positioned 90 degrees to the belt just behind the front leg of your grinder and about 2mm lower than the belt. This has stopped the vast majority of the spark travel.
I have found when grinding welds down to look clean and uniform it works best to do soft and even strokes along the length of the weld. Slowly feather the weld into shape. It's a slower process but looks great and you don't get grinder marks in unwanted places
Very nice solution indeed. Honestly what little left going out is not going to cause issue, assuming wear usual safety stuff. Plus amount that do get out is small so it takes a while to need cleanup outside of bin.
I love this belt grinder. I wish I had a mill so I can build it. You ever think of modifying/adding a brush to the shield? This way it should stop most of the debris from flowing around. Something like a a welding brush 1mm off of the belt should help a lot
It would be a god awful mess to clean, but I have seen others add a fine spray of water to the belt at the tension pulley. And would be pretty much worthless in horizontal mode. It is also suppose to add life to the belt because it runs cooler. I chose to have a dirty and clean rooms in the shop. I do like how you solved the moving top shield. Innovative is the word.
Yeah a seperate room for grinding is definitely the best move if you can accomodate that. You can only reduce the mess these machines make but never get rid of it 100%. Don't get me started on angle grinders...
@@PhilVandelay My shop is a 24x36, I partitioned off a 12x24 in the back as the clean room. The 24x24 gives me plenty of room for metal working and fixing vehicles. Due to health reasons it's been a long time getting there, but the clean side and all it's benches are about done.
Haaa! Knowing the series, I read the comments first before watching the video. I came across this one, and thought ‘hmmm’. Then I watched the video and heard him ... 😂😂😂😂
Wait!!! You're one of those weirdos that wears pants in your shop? Love your content and the dialogue that goes with. Thanks for your time and effort, it's greatly appreciated.
Really implemented! Try to put a piece of rock wool (insulating material) under the support table. That would dampen the impact of the sparks a little and prevent the ricochets for the most part. Greetings from Styria
*What I noticed with your grinding was that the sparks hit the table, and the ricocheting was causing all your problems.* *Move your grinder forward of the table edge, so that the sparks are directed to the floor, and secure the area for safe operation.* *Otherwise; installing a small removable water trough below the table edge (8x3x3 & fill 1") would extinguish sparks, and catch most of your debris.*
if you take your bottom guard and instead of having it bend to follow the belt path, you have it direct the sparks to the left of the belt it will direct the sparks down when in horizontal mode. Then (if necessary) put a turn down deflector mounted to your pan so that when the sparks are getting ejected to the left, it catches those sparks and then puts them towards the base pan. if you want a very effective "spark arrestor" (to slow them down so that they do not bounce off the bottom then you can build a chute with a series of crecent deflectors in in (sections of tubing) that will force the sparks to fall out of their air stream and hit the walls (with several re-directs). This will cause them to loose enough energy to fall out. (very common form of dust filtration) Stuff Made Here (on YT) made a large format one for his plasma cutting table to handle the sparks and dust it generates.
My first frequency variator, I had the idea to clean it with air from the compressor. First and last time. Something exploted immediately when I plugged it again. For sure a short circuit of metal powder
In the vertical configuration it looks like about half of what ends up out of the pan is due to bouncing off the bottom of the pan. You might be able to reduce that by filling the bottom of the pan with a thin layer of oil or water. Flowing liquid to carry away the dust would be far more likely to work in addition to other advantages, but is also an order of magnitude more complicated to build.
Yeah I considered that and I think the pan is watertight, but I'm not sure I want to deal with the disgusting/toxic sludge that would build up in there. You'd probably have to take the grinder out and rinse the whole thing to clean it. I suppose you could put a drain valve somewhere though and use a hose, but overall it's still a messy process
Love your videos. Quality stuff. Grinding, drilling, bandsawing with gloves on, though... just freaks me out. I know, safety people would argue the other way, but I had a T-shirt sucked in a grinder, probably by the airflow, not even contact, and it happens in milliseconds. Also had this assembly type glove rolled up by a cordless drill. Not fun. By the time you let off the trigger, it's long done. Fabric based or woven type gloves can have the thread caught and pulled by the slightest roughness, everyone experienced that, the rubberized grippiness doesn't help either. So maybe real leather, or preferably none.
Hello Phil Nice work. Place som watertrought under the lower frontwheel it will kill the sparks and collect a lot of the dust and is easy to take away and clean with water. Remove the lower sheld
Try folding longitude lips of about 20mm to each side of the guides. I believe that this will block the glancing sparks tha hit the flat surface and then rickosha off at an angle. Great work and fine machining.
I'm wondering if a compressor to blow off the sparks would be a better method. I'm thinking of the small ones used for laser engraver/cutters. This might blow the spark off the belt and help burn it out faster. Placed at the second cover it should remove the stuff before it goes any further. More like an air curtain as used on doors, rather than a vacuum or mechanical shield.
I appreciate the work you did putting this together and sharing. You inspired me to rip the wheel fender off of my boat trailer and use it, since it’s almost the same thing. (Haha kidding)
Phil, have you considered using a wet tray, I have used a scotch pad in a tray with water and fill it to just before it covers the scotch pad and that has worked for me to eliminating most of the bouncing sparks.
I did consider it, and I think you could even fill the bottom of this pan with water since it should be watertight. The reason I didn't do it is mostly that I'd dread cleaning out that sludge in there.. but the scotch pad is actually a good idea, that way you can just wash the pad instead of scraping everything out of the pan I suppose
I used the same basic idea for my radial arm saw; it's a bit bigger and it's hooked up to my dust collection system; works great. If it were me I'd of let the sparks continue down into a funneled opening, and add a short plexiglass shield to the right side. jmo Still it's good though; *well done.*
It seems like you may want to run the cables that are coming through the back leg through the bottom of the dust collection pan so they don't get slowly eaten away by grinding dust
Buenos dias , muchas gracias por tan buenas sugerencias, excelente calidad en los proyectos que realizan. yo compré los planos del Belt Grinder, y ya tengo terminada la maquina. Donde puedo comprar la Grinding Belt, preferible en USAMuchas gracias !!!
Great video, what about let the belt pass through a plate perpendicular to the belt and with a cut just a little bit thicker so that you can change the belt but at the same time it act as a wall for the dust particles
Awesome upgrade! I wonder if it's worth removing the deflector plate underneath the table? It seems this is funneling a lot of sparks along the belt path and back around. Perhaps adding some water to the pan would help contain the side sparks... or maybe a damp cloth if you don't fancy sharing your workshop with swamp animals after a few weeks 😁
@@PhilVandelay Can you please remove deflector plate underneath the table and use some kind of pan with water instead ? Please make a video of difference. Thank you.
9/1. Take a aluminum bottle with cap, place magnet in bottle. Place in pan , most grinding will be on bottle n simple tap on edge of waist can n they will be off.
Hey Phil. Thanks for posting the improvements. Very nice additions. I built a smaller, 2 x 48, and it's an awesome addition to my shop. One interesting thing, that I haven't heard anything about, is that I get a build up of static electricity when I use it. When I then touch the grinder or my metal work table, I get a huge shock! I've been trying to figure out a solution to this problem, but I haven't come up with anything convenient. Have you experienced this problem and have you a solution? Thanks
The deflector at the bottom of the platen is feeding sparks into the rear lower deflector which is then feeding up into the top rear one creating a cycle. Have you tried removing the bottom deflector entirely and seeing if that greatly reduces the sparks shooting out of the top?
Instead of spoiling the aluminum sheet, it is better to put a container of water or coolant under the shelf and the bottom roller. Greetings from Poland
Suggestion for the shields. I thought about this a bit, but why not put side walls on the shields that surround the belt too, rather than just top dead center like you have. They would be similar to the design of the tub you built below to catch the majority of the metal dust. The shields original design can still remain hinged, just put a side wall angled at 20 degrees on either side to catch the sparks that wonder off the edges of the belt, deflecting them downward into the pan. You wouldn't have to weld those sidewalls in, just use some of that thin aluminum bend to 110 degrees, and just drill and rivet them to the shields you already have. Less hassle that way I would think, but welding them would just make them look prettier is all. I also thought that you should pull your working table a bit further away from the belt, might also help mitigate a lot of those sparks from bouncing off the table and hitting the person using the grinder, like maybe about no further than 13mm away from the belt on the edge of the working surface facing the belt.
Side walls would work, but they get in the way of changing belts. It is particularly annoying when you're working through several grits and changing belts all the time.
This is probably my favorite grinder on UA-cam. Masterfully built and perfectly thought out. Very nice work on it!
Phil your sense of humor while quite dry is very funny! It's also quite refreshing to hear someone realize they aren't perfect and be humble. You have done an outstanding job on this grinder and should be exceptionally proud of your accomplishment!
Pour water into the tub. Add washing-up liquid and mix. You will reduce the surface tension of the water. Dust and sparks will fall to the bottom. I use this method at work.
Yes, I agree it works fine.
Also consider placing a fine mesh tray 3 or 4mmmesh just below water level to catch items and stop waves forming in the tray
I can't believe how good you are at coming up with a system that actually works this well. That hinges and doesn't have to be taken on and off and adjusted to switch angles. Great work!!
Yesterday I was building my 2x72 belt grinder and thinking your channel haven’t updated for a while. And here we are!!! Love your contacts and videos. Keep it up 👍 make more video.
Beautiful work. Your attention to detail is unbelievable
That's nice work, nice to see some attention to detail with the shield supports.
Another well-thought solution for the dust and spark problems on your belt grinder machine. Nice work Phil
A nice addition to a well thought out, well machined, superior tool.
Hallo Phil. I am a great admirer of your work. Seems like you are very systematic in your approach mostly in your projects.
Ahh, the old safety squint! I used to use this amazing piece of safety equipment until a cutting disk disintegrated on me!
Good call on the enclosure for the VFD - metal dust is a common cause of death. I wouldn't worry about overheating, it looks like a big enough enclosure.
Like the use of rivets. Very elegant. Also that axis-anti-rotation mechanizm is cool.
Have you considered maybe an electromagnet that switches on/off at the same time as the grinder? Which could be further improved by adding a vacuum that turns on for like 5-10 seconds after shutting off the grinder so it can all be removed every time you finish grinding. That's the method of spark/dust collection/control that I've been most leaning toward on my own 2x72" grinder build
if the sheetmetal rattles or buzzes, you could slip some clear hose over the posts to dampen noise? Also an old natural hair paint brush (plastic paint brushes might melt?) would stop any more residual sparks from getting past the rollers
I think it buzzes a little but if there's one thing this machine isn't it's quiet.. You don't really notice it through the infernal noise that comes from the belt going around at over 100km/h
Please tell us Phil, a little bit about how you came to gain such skills. Machine school? Just hands on? Mentoring under past masters?.You set an incredible standard to follow which for this ‘greenie' seems nearly impossible. Your work and comments guide tool selection. Would love to build a similar grinder. Oh ya, mine works fine but would never get through the door were it being compared to yours, which I might add is almost too nice to use. (I said almost....LOL). Would love to build one with an eye toward yours but the time required is a huge factor and the one I have does work to my satisfaction even if it doesn’t remotely reflect your skills and talent..I best just admire what you do and press on. Keep up the outstanding work. Thanks for sharing.
I mostly taught myself by watching other UA-cam machinsts like ToT (I guess you could almost call this mentoring) and just learning by doing - and honestly I'm probably not as good at it as you might think ;) When I first watched machining videos I was also very impressed, but as with everything, once you start getting into it the fog starts to lift and things become more clear and things that formerly seemed impressive turn out not to be that complicated after all. I'd say it's mostly about patience, curiosity and taking the time to get some experience, but not a skill you need some kind of amazing talent for. I'd say almost everyone can learn the machining required to make this grinder relatively quickly - it's mostly just relatively basic operations, nothing super fancy. It's a big volume of work due to the sheer amount of parts and operations, but the operations and parts themselves are rarely complex (for example almost everything has square sides). There's only a few spot where you need to hit tight tolerances, and since everything is in individual small parts, if you mess one up, you can just start over with that part, which is what I like about the design - it lends itself to a "part by part" approach, which is how large complicated things are simplified - just taking it one piece at a time. If you make one part every weekend, you could be done in a year 😅 So if you have the equipment I'm sure you could make this if you take your time, but time you will need
Phil, I enjoyed watching the process of solving your spark problem. I'll want to do this when I finish my build of the belt sander.
Gute Ideen und klasse umgesetzt. Bist doch gut duchgekommen und alles funktioniert. Einwandfrei.
The moving guards are pretty sweet. I’d put a small tray of water under the table to stop sparks bouncing out of the enclosure. Added bonus of being able to cool parts if needed.
Always a pleasure to see you work
16:25 - it also means that if someone buys this and copies it for resale, all copies will have that "hole" in the pin.
This entire machine, core build, spark arrestor and all, is hands-down one of the BEST 2x72 belt grinders I have come across on UA-cam or otherwise.... I realize you don't know me, but coning from me, that's quite compliment, seriously. I more or less consider myself to be connoisseur of finely built belt grinders, if you will... I have also built more than a few bulletproof builds myself and if you look at my UA-cam profile you'll see that I have put together a few very extensive Playlists of all my favorite grinder builds on UA-cam... point being, this is a magnificent build, Jeremy Schit and Brian House may both make excellent grinders, but they ain't got "Schidt" on your build (see what I did there? Haha)... for real tho man, awesome build and awesome content, keep it up my friend!
Cheers!
- Jesse
Hi, very well and cleverly done. A real pleasure to see. Moreover for T-slots on the grinding table and his system of positioning, etc. Bravo !
For collecting dust, maybe I should add that collecting the maximum quantity of dust, just below the bottom front wheel, at the "source" of them, would alleviate the need of making a "full" chassis all around the sanding belt. I've seen buckets or big pipes (200 mm diameter may suffice) fulled with water and also vacuum air pipes, horizontally positioned at the "source" of dust.
Last, I'll add some weight or another system (another clamps ?) for avoiding the sander to move if you push too much hard against him.
Cheers from Marseille, France
Tolles video!!
Du kannst auch ein kleines gewelltes Blech (oder auch ein gekantetes)
mit Neodym Magneten darunter als Eisenpartikelfalle nutzen.
Einfach zu herstellen und sammelt viel ein.
Super mach weiter so....
Still, by far the nicest belt grinder on UA-cam maybe even the world!!!
💪🏼💪🏼👍🏻🤣🤣
Check Jeremy Schmid's chamnel, he built the ultimate belt grinder, just before this video came out
Nice job man I'm surprised you were able to do all that and still make it look good....great video as always
Very cool! I love that anti-rotation element on the axel at 16:03 very clever :)
That's one way to put it 😅
This is truly a work of art 😍
Really enjoy your videos and hearing your thoughts, processes and procedures in proble solving.
I wanted to make a belt Grinder myself your design gave me a lot of great Ideas
Very inspiring videos.Thanks for sharing.
But it seems that your budget for tools ,machines , materials ... as well as free time is nearly unlimited.
Very special work, very protective to the utmost, but the new addition of the spark guard has destroyed the splendor of the device with this addition. The simplest way was to get rid of sparks by placing a bowl of water at the bottom of the device in which the sparks would fall. However, you are a genius.
Could also try adding an electromagnet near the bottom where most of the sparks go, would make for an easy clean-up too! :)
Phil, great series. Great work. Great project. Keep it coming!
Great idea. Beautiful workmanship. My observation is that some of the dust/sparks is getting recycled because it hits the bottom of your pan and reflects back upward into the belt. If there was a collection tube under the platten that might create add to the effectiveness. Thanks again for the great idea and setting the standard.
Interestingly, it actually helps to not clean the pan - after a short time, a pile of swarf starts to form under the platen, which seems to do a good job of "catching" and extinguishing further sparks. The dust actually gets so condensed you can just pick it up as one piece after some time and throw it in the trash. Overall I'm still quite happy with this about a year later - the dust that escapes is minimal, the only thing that would still be a big help is an air filter in close proximity, to clean the super-fine dust that floats away in the air and gets into your lungs
Great video and workmanship on both you tray and grinder. What I did to stop the sparks traveling around with the belt, was to fit a guard at the bottom of the belt. It would be positioned 90 degrees to the belt just behind the front leg of your grinder and about 2mm lower than the belt. This has stopped the vast majority of the spark travel.
Well, that is much simpler than my solution! I'll have to try this out when I'm in the shop
@@PhilVandelay I think yours will look much better than mine.
Metalist’s are such perfectionists. Manufacture and sell these. I would buy one.
I have found when grinding welds down to look clean and uniform it works best to do soft and even strokes along the length of the weld. Slowly feather the weld into shape. It's a slower process but looks great and you don't get grinder marks in unwanted places
Very nice solution indeed. Honestly what little left going out is not going to cause issue, assuming wear usual safety stuff. Plus amount that do get out is small so it takes a while to need cleanup outside of bin.
I love this belt grinder. I wish I had a mill so I can build it. You ever think of modifying/adding a brush to the shield? This way it should stop most of the debris from flowing around. Something like a a welding brush 1mm off of the belt should help a lot
Respect, Phil Vandelay!
It would be a god awful mess to clean, but I have seen others add a fine spray of water to the belt at the tension pulley. And would be pretty much worthless in horizontal mode. It is also suppose to add life to the belt because it runs cooler.
I chose to have a dirty and clean rooms in the shop.
I do like how you solved the moving top shield. Innovative is the word.
Yeah a seperate room for grinding is definitely the best move if you can accomodate that. You can only reduce the mess these machines make but never get rid of it 100%. Don't get me started on angle grinders...
@@PhilVandelay My shop is a 24x36, I partitioned off a 12x24 in the back as the clean room. The 24x24 gives me plenty of room for metal working and fixing vehicles.
Due to health reasons it's been a long time getting there, but the clean side and all it's benches are about done.
So much fun watching your videos
Totally awesome, you're a great machinest
I'm learning a lot from you,
Thanks
Rolf from USA 👍
Great discover and ultimate idea,95% of dust gone👍
You "usually" wear pants in the shop? I've gotta try that sometime.
Haaa! Knowing the series, I read the comments first before watching the video. I came across this one, and thought ‘hmmm’. Then I watched the video and heard him ... 😂😂😂😂
Nice fix to a complicated problem. Thanks
Wait!!! You're one of those weirdos that wears pants in your shop? Love your content and the dialogue that goes with. Thanks for your time and effort, it's greatly appreciated.
Congratulations for your work
Interesting solution. Thanks for the video.
Just finished watching the original trilogy hahaha, I look in the recommended videos and this shows up, nice haha
Looks like a good solution, I was going to try some brushes as I've not seen that before.
Nice Job Phil very neat and effective
You nailed it, great job!
Really implemented! Try to put a piece of rock wool (insulating material) under the support table. That would dampen the impact of the sparks a little and prevent the ricochets for the most part.
Greetings from Styria
On lorry’s they use a special rubber anti spray guard for wet conditions ,maybe something along those lines would help.
*What I noticed with your grinding was that the sparks hit the table, and the ricocheting was causing all your problems.*
*Move your grinder forward of the table edge, so that the sparks are directed to the floor, and secure the area for safe operation.*
*Otherwise; installing a small removable water trough below the table edge (8x3x3 & fill 1") would extinguish sparks, and catch most of your debris.*
How the Heck did Jeremy Schmidt and you do the SAME video in two days lol
I was thinking the same. Two of the best builds share add-ons within two days. 😂
I swear this wasn't planned 😅 But with the frequency of our uploads it's definitely a very unlikely coincidence
Love your grander! Do you sell it or just drawings?
"Safety squint" glad I'm not the only one who calls it that
if you take your bottom guard and instead of having it bend to follow the belt path, you have it direct the sparks to the left of the belt it will direct the sparks down when in horizontal mode.
Then (if necessary) put a turn down deflector mounted to your pan so that when the sparks are getting ejected to the left, it catches those sparks and then puts them towards the base pan.
if you want a very effective "spark arrestor" (to slow them down so that they do not bounce off the bottom then you can build a chute with a series of crecent deflectors in in (sections of tubing) that will force the sparks to fall out of their air stream and hit the walls (with several re-directs). This will cause them to loose enough energy to fall out.
(very common form of dust filtration)
Stuff Made Here (on YT) made a large format one for his plasma cutting table to handle the sparks and dust it generates.
I work in an aluminum boat shop, and we use Skilsaws all the time to cut aluminum.
My first frequency variator, I had the idea to clean it with air from the compressor. First and last time. Something exploted immediately when I plugged it again. For sure a short circuit of metal powder
Excellent solution!
Phil, What did the wise man once said ? If you can't make it perfect, make it adjustable !! 🤣
In the vertical configuration it looks like about half of what ends up out of the pan is due to bouncing off the bottom of the pan. You might be able to reduce that by filling the bottom of the pan with a thin layer of oil or water. Flowing liquid to carry away the dust would be far more likely to work in addition to other advantages, but is also an order of magnitude more complicated to build.
Yeah I considered that and I think the pan is watertight, but I'm not sure I want to deal with the disgusting/toxic sludge that would build up in there. You'd probably have to take the grinder out and rinse the whole thing to clean it. I suppose you could put a drain valve somewhere though and use a hose, but overall it's still a messy process
Metal sponges from kitchen working very well for catching sparks.
Had you given any thought Phil of fabricating a clear plastic cover for the top and sides and hinged so you could lift it out of the way as required?
Love your videos. Quality stuff.
Grinding, drilling, bandsawing with gloves on, though... just freaks me out.
I know, safety people would argue the other way, but I had a T-shirt sucked in a grinder, probably by the airflow, not even contact, and it happens in milliseconds. Also had this assembly type glove rolled up by a cordless drill. Not fun. By the time you let off the trigger, it's long done.
Fabric based or woven type gloves can have the thread caught and pulled by the slightest roughness, everyone experienced that, the rubberized grippiness doesn't help either. So maybe real leather, or preferably none.
Yeah, gloves around this type of equipment is a big no-no. Not worth getting your hand sucked into the machine.
Ha, you usually wear pants in the shop. Yes I think it’s optional too 👍
Great video!
Hello Phil
Nice work.
Place som watertrought under the lower frontwheel it will kill the sparks and collect a lot of the dust and is easy to take away and clean with water.
Remove the lower sheld
Try folding longitude lips of about 20mm to each side of the guides.
I believe that this will block the glancing sparks tha hit the flat surface and then rickosha off at an angle.
Great work and fine machining.
I'm wondering if a compressor to blow off the sparks would be a better method.
I'm thinking of the small ones used for laser engraver/cutters. This might blow the spark off the belt and help burn it out faster. Placed at the second cover it should remove the stuff before it goes any further.
More like an air curtain as used on doors, rather than a vacuum or mechanical shield.
I appreciate the work you did putting this together and sharing. You inspired me to rip the wheel fender off of my boat trailer and use it, since it’s almost the same thing. (Haha kidding)
Well done kind Sir.
Great job!
Shame that i have no much space for machines in my rooms corner.
Excellent design!
Phil, have you considered using a wet tray, I have used a scotch pad in a tray with water and fill it to just before it covers the scotch pad and that has worked for me to eliminating most of the bouncing sparks.
I did consider it, and I think you could even fill the bottom of this pan with water since it should be watertight. The reason I didn't do it is mostly that I'd dread cleaning out that sludge in there.. but the scotch pad is actually a good idea, that way you can just wash the pad instead of scraping everything out of the pan I suppose
Very well done -as always ✅👍
I used the same basic idea for my radial arm saw; it's a bit bigger and it's hooked up to my dust collection system; works great.
If it were me I'd of let the sparks continue down into a funneled opening, and add a short plexiglass shield to the right side. jmo
Still it's good though; *well done.*
It seems like you may want to run the cables that are coming through the back leg through the bottom of the dust collection pan so they don't get slowly eaten away by grinding dust
Did you consider installing a removable powerful magnet in the bottom dusk container to catch and stop the bigger sparks?
Magnets help, I added some to my drill sharpener it catches most of the sparks.
Buenos dias , muchas gracias por tan buenas sugerencias, excelente calidad en los proyectos que realizan.
yo compré los planos del Belt Grinder, y ya tengo terminada la maquina.
Donde puedo comprar la Grinding Belt, preferible en USAMuchas gracias !!!
great video. Thanks for sharing. Regards from Florence (ps: I have copied your tips for making the lathe stiffer...wow...thanks it worked)
Great video, what about let the belt pass through a plate perpendicular to the belt and with a cut just a little bit thicker so that you can change the belt but at the same time it act as a wall for the dust particles
Hola
Para parar las chispas
Podés poner un recipiente con agua
Proba cuando trabajes con la máquina vertical
very good as always👌👏👏👏
Awesome upgrade! I wonder if it's worth removing the deflector plate underneath the table? It seems this is funneling a lot of sparks along the belt path and back around. Perhaps adding some water to the pan would help contain the side sparks... or maybe a damp cloth if you don't fancy sharing your workshop with swamp animals after a few weeks 😁
Yeah it's definitely better to remove the bottom deflector for vertical mode
@@PhilVandelay Can you please remove deflector plate underneath the table and use some kind of pan with water instead ? Please make a video of difference. Thank you.
Keep the bottom shield removed and place a water bath below the belt to catch the bulk of the sparks. It will be 90% cleaner.
9/1. Take a aluminum bottle with cap, place magnet in bottle.
Place in pan , most grinding will be on bottle n simple tap on edge of waist can n they will be off.
only if grinding metals that a magnet will catch
Nice idea brother
Hey Phil. Thanks for posting the improvements. Very nice additions.
I built a smaller, 2 x 48, and it's an awesome addition to my shop. One interesting thing, that I haven't heard anything about, is that I get a build up of static electricity when I use it. When I then touch the grinder or my metal work table, I get a huge shock! I've been trying to figure out a solution to this problem, but I haven't come up with anything convenient.
Have you experienced this problem and have you a solution? Thanks
Can't say I've ever encountered this problem, my first thought would be to make sure that your machine and/or the table are properly grounded
@@PhilVandelay Thanks Phil. I'm glad you don't have the same problem. I'm going to try some different belts and see if I get the same result.
Well done!
The deflector at the bottom of the platen is feeding sparks into the rear lower deflector which is then feeding up into the top rear one creating a cycle. Have you tried removing the bottom deflector entirely and seeing if that greatly reduces the sparks shooting out of the top?
There's actually a comparison shot of running with and without the deflector in the video
yeah! great improvements!
Hey Phil, what if you put some thick grease or something inside the deflectors so the sparks stick to it and do not bounce?
Great work as always!
Ever seen a grease fire?
Great job 👍🛠️
Instead of spoiling the aluminum sheet, it is better to put a container of water or coolant under the shelf and the bottom roller. Greetings from Poland
Love your work! Wish I had a grinder like that
you need a tray of water below the first roller that does the grinding. this will eliminate 90% of the sparks that blow around the belts.
Suggestion for the shields. I thought about this a bit, but why not put side walls on the shields that surround the belt too, rather than just top dead center like you have. They would be similar to the design of the tub you built below to catch the majority of the metal dust. The shields original design can still remain hinged, just put a side wall angled at 20 degrees on either side to catch the sparks that wonder off the edges of the belt, deflecting them downward into the pan. You wouldn't have to weld those sidewalls in, just use some of that thin aluminum bend to 110 degrees, and just drill and rivet them to the shields you already have. Less hassle that way I would think, but welding them would just make them look prettier is all.
I also thought that you should pull your working table a bit further away from the belt, might also help mitigate a lot of those sparks from bouncing off the table and hitting the person using the grinder, like maybe about no further than 13mm away from the belt on the edge of the working surface facing the belt.
Side walls would work, but they get in the way of changing belts. It is particularly annoying when you're working through several grits and changing belts all the time.