PLEASE READ!!!!!!! ***** I spent some more time today checking out the inverter on this generator in much more detail since it failed to produce 2000W continuously and would trip the overload light at 1940W. Watching this on my scope, this thing really starts to go downhill at 1900w. Champion was 100% correct in their 1850W inverter rating for this tapa built inverter. I am OK saying it can do 1900W but DO NOT try to push it any further. It is fine for spikes and such beyond 1900W as those looked to be handled decently. But for continuous output, aim for 1850-1900w and no more continuously. This could be a sample size of 1 problem BUT... no one else rates this particular inverter for 2000W and my testing is in line with what others claim at 1850W-1900W.*****
I just put this in my cart a few hours ago before this video popped up. Thank you, I'm buying it to run a portable dryer while camping. I have a 15yo dog who needs clean diapers daily.
Hi, thanks for the extensive review and recommendation. I did buy one through your supplied link. Got it for $303.79. This unit is will be mighty fine as a loaner-out unit. Did not want extra can/will fails. I wanted one easy to work on versus the very hard to work on Honda OHC 2000 just to do valve adjustments. Or even the Yamaha 2000. This way went it does not come back home I will cry much less. I now have the location of the front right corner low oil wire connector scoped out and will even hole-saw in if ever the need. Body plugging the hole made. All three oil changed broken-in waiting for service now. By the way for those interested a magnet down the spark plug hole says this is an iron/steel sleeved unit. S.U.
I greatly appreciate how in-depth your reviews are of generators. And, you going the extra mile to even do a tear down, plus show some ways to improve (by adding an hour meter) and prolong the life (by adding a magnetic dipstick and iridium spark plug) of the generators is Great!! It is frustrating to see how many unprofessional and specifications lacking "review" videos people are putting out. Would you consider doing a review of the Bilt Hard 5500w Dual Fuel Inverter Generator? It seems to run around $750 most of the time on Amazon, which, if it is as decent quality as this smaller generator, would make it a very good value for the price. I prefer to use propane to run a generator because, for me it would sit unused for long periods of time between uses, and I don't like the short "shelf life(?)" of gasoline and the potential of fuel systems getting gummed up.
Just bought one off Ebay. With coupon and rebate on my Credit card I got it for $272 delivered. Ran it for an hour so far. Exercising it with a 1750 watt hair dryer about 1-2 minutes every 15 minutes. Sluggish in eco mode for sure. Bought it for dry camping but wanted something that would run the trailer A/C if needed. Seems to be running rich. Going to check the spark plug once it cools down. Maybe the valve lash. Going to run it for another hour before I change the oil. They recommend 5 hours break-in run time!
Great review! I also cannot believe how much quieter this unit is, and you compared it to the smaller unit as well. Very, very impressive. Interesting what you found on the part# for that inverter board, that it's apparently listed/sold as a 1900W board. Before I got to that part of your video, I was thinking the overload at 1940W could possibly be from the variable voltage transformer that you are using. Transformers create reactive power with a less that 1.0 Power Factor. Without getting too technical, if you had a .9 PF (power factor) going back to the generator, the inverter board is "seeing/feeling" a slightly higher load of KVAR than the listed "watts" on your display. In theory, you may have hit (or in a lab) they may have just been able to hit 2000W pure resistive load, with no reactive power. Maybe (like you had said on the surge ratings). Or they just rounded up for marketing, lol. But I agree that this unit is a great value, especially coming out so well in the sound test. (usually the off brand cheapies seem to be the loudest/roughest sounding". I have a 5 year old Champion dual fuel and it's a bit "raspy" sounding but the db numbers don't really show that. Overall great review!
Hello! Smart thinking on the variac, I did test with and without it. Made no discernible difference. I went back to my old loads, variable heat guns without the transformer in play and took measurements with my SDS1102X scope and added my edit to the comments section (pinned). 1900W is generous and giving her all she's got! Double checked with my SDM3055 benchtop multimeter and it agrees. Voltage starts dropping and this one goes into a virtual triangle waveform 😅 Thought something was wrong with my 100x probe per line noise so grabbed two of my handheld scopes, they showed mostly the same. It was interesting for sure. I spent more time double and triple checking this one than any other I have worked with.
@@BKD70 Power factor was .95 with this load, nothing that would skew the results to the level of fail I found in meeting spec. This was the only generator I have tested with this load that could not touch its specified output. All others exceed their ratings. Still a good value but not a 2000W generator. Could have been my sample too, never know.
I picked up this exact unit from a Facebook marketplace seller. It was brand new. Never had oil or gas in it. The labels were still across the gas cap and oil filler cap. After running for 1 hour to break in, I changed the oil. After running for 4.5 hours to break it in further, I changed the oil, but then it would not stay running. The low oil light would come on after about a minute or so of running (every time). I removed both front and rear black covers, 6 screws each, pinched off the fuel line going to the fuel valve and then removed the fuel line from the tank at the valve, then pulled off the blue housing holding the fuel tank (remove 3 screws at the bottom of each side of the blue shroud). I found the low oil shut off wire on the opposite side from the oil fill cap. The low oil shut off wire coming out of the engine is a single black thin wire that has kind of a cloth braiding around it. Follow that wire forward to its bullet connector, and then pull it. I put everything back together and it works fine. I just have to keep up on oil level now. Also, I looked on Amazon a few days ago before I bought it to look at the reviews. I looked again today but it's nowhere to be found.
Inside the plastic, it looks a lot like my Ducar built Westinghouse iGen2550... nearly identical. I think RATO builds nearly all of the Champion generators... at least they used to, I haven't had opportunity to check out any of the new suitcase 1800 class models that have come out in the last couple years, they very well could have their units in this power rating built by someone else these days. If you're not going to be using it on Federal lands... take that spark arrestor off. The engine will thank you. Good call on the Rotella 15W40 oil... I use 15W40 heavy duty diesel oil (I use Mobil Delvac 1300 Super) in all of my small engines... have been for years and years and years. I also run the NGK Iridium spark plugs on my generators. They do make a difference. Great video!!! Subbed!!
Metal tanks are worse, they rust inside. Also when you are testing raise the load till it trips. Sometimes it will go over the rating before it trip. Even if the red light is on.
They can*** rust. Depends on levels of neglect, moisture and so forth. I have 40 year old metal tanks here that look brand new inside. I do agree though, plastic tanks have their benefits! Just surprised me to see a metal tank in it. I would think they cost more! The LED lights trip on the inverters when they sense clipping. You can see this with a scope. This takes them from being a safe, clean inverter generator to more of a square wave (depends how gracefully they clip). In short, I never want to see a generator start to clip prior to its rated output. Not cool.
Stick your finger over the spark plug hole and pull the cord or rotate the engine. Compression stroke will push air out of the hole or feel rather neutral if it has a de-compression cam.
Or use a flashlight to look down the hole. or you can carefully use a screwdriver in the hole and watch for when it's at the top (but go slow and make sure you don't jam the screwdriver in the hole when its coming up. @@MR_Garage
I would say (without reviewing it) that the pulsar would be a better choice. My favorite budget pick is this unit, the Nexpow YH2200i. amzn.to/3z938nr which I would recommend over the pulsar. Cheaper and better features.
I've had mine probably running at least a hundred hours. 3 oil changes I overloaded the circuit and now it will not keep running. Shuts off like low oil sensor. How hard is it to get to the low oil sensing unit? I have not removed the outer case. Thank you
Is the low oil light coming on? That would be the indication the switch is stuck. If that is not on when starting, other damage may have happened. Unfortunately, the sensor it is on the bottom of the motor and a total teardown would be needed to get to it. Or, you can trace back a single wire going to the bottom of the motor which would be the low oil pressure switch. Could bypass it.
This is what I hear the hot ticket is. I have not used it myself but should fit this generator. Most all of these have the same threads / fuel cap style. Something I will consider testing in the future. amzn.to/3Q2KMu7
Please DO run a resistor plug for inverter generators. Note, the factory plug has a 5K resistor also. Do NOT run a non-resistor plug on modern ignition system designed for a resistor plug, and especially on do not run one on an inverter generator. The resistor is there for noise suppression and this is a sensitive electronic device! Also, being a fine wire electrode, the spark kernel is very focused with an iridium plug, unlike a junk nickel tip of yesteryear. You will not experience spark blowout or other performance issue with a fine wire electrode plug like an iridium plug and you do not need to tighten the gap on these to improve starting. These are good to go! Hope this helps!
PLEASE READ!!!!!!!
***** I spent some more time today checking out the inverter on this generator in much more detail since it failed to produce 2000W continuously and would trip the overload light at 1940W. Watching this on my scope, this thing really starts to go downhill at 1900w. Champion was 100% correct in their 1850W inverter rating for this tapa built inverter. I am OK saying it can do 1900W but DO NOT try to push it any further. It is fine for spikes and such beyond 1900W as those looked to be handled decently. But for continuous output, aim for 1850-1900w and no more continuously. This could be a sample size of 1 problem BUT... no one else rates this particular inverter for 2000W and my testing is in line with what others claim at 1850W-1900W.*****
I just put this in my cart a few hours ago before this video popped up. Thank you, I'm buying it to run a portable dryer while camping. I have a 15yo dog who needs clean diapers daily.
Bless you and take care of that doggo! You are awesome!
Hi, thanks for the extensive review and recommendation.
I did buy one through your supplied link. Got it for $303.79. This unit is will be mighty fine as a loaner-out unit. Did not want extra can/will fails. I wanted one easy to work on versus the very hard to work on Honda OHC 2000 just to do valve adjustments. Or even the Yamaha 2000. This way went it does not come back home I will cry much less. I now have the location of the front right corner low oil wire connector scoped out and will even hole-saw in if ever the need. Body plugging the hole made.
All three oil changed broken-in waiting for service now.
By the way for those interested a magnet down the spark plug hole says this is an iron/steel sleeved unit. S.U.
Right on! I keep the nexpow version gen for this purpose. Just loaned it out for a kids birthday party to run a bouncy house 😅
I greatly appreciate how in-depth your reviews are of generators. And, you going the extra mile to even do a tear down, plus show some ways to improve (by adding an hour meter) and prolong the life (by adding a magnetic dipstick and iridium spark plug) of the generators is Great!! It is frustrating to see how many unprofessional and specifications lacking "review" videos people are putting out.
Would you consider doing a review of the Bilt Hard 5500w Dual Fuel Inverter Generator? It seems to run around $750 most of the time on Amazon, which, if it is as decent quality as this smaller generator, would make it a very good value for the price. I prefer to use propane to run a generator because, for me it would sit unused for long periods of time between uses, and I don't like the short "shelf life(?)" of gasoline and the potential of fuel systems getting gummed up.
Just bought one off Ebay. With coupon and rebate on my Credit card I got it for $272 delivered. Ran it for an hour so far. Exercising it with a 1750 watt hair dryer about 1-2 minutes every 15 minutes. Sluggish in eco mode for sure. Bought it for dry camping but wanted something that would run the trailer A/C if needed. Seems to be running rich. Going to check the spark plug once it cools down. Maybe the valve lash. Going to run it for another hour before I change the oil. They recommend 5 hours break-in run time!
Great review! I also cannot believe how much quieter this unit is, and you compared it to the smaller unit as well. Very, very impressive. Interesting what you found on the part# for that inverter board, that it's apparently listed/sold as a 1900W board. Before I got to that part of your video, I was thinking the overload at 1940W could possibly be from the variable voltage transformer that you are using. Transformers create reactive power with a less that 1.0 Power Factor. Without getting too technical, if you had a .9 PF (power factor) going back to the generator, the inverter board is "seeing/feeling" a slightly higher load of KVAR than the listed "watts" on your display. In theory, you may have hit (or in a lab) they may have just been able to hit 2000W pure resistive load, with no reactive power. Maybe (like you had said on the surge ratings). Or they just rounded up for marketing, lol. But I agree that this unit is a great value, especially coming out so well in the sound test. (usually the off brand cheapies seem to be the loudest/roughest sounding". I have a 5 year old Champion dual fuel and it's a bit "raspy" sounding but the db numbers don't really show that. Overall great review!
Hello! Smart thinking on the variac, I did test with and without it. Made no discernible difference. I went back to my old loads, variable heat guns without the transformer in play and took measurements with my SDS1102X scope and added my edit to the comments section (pinned). 1900W is generous and giving her all she's got! Double checked with my SDM3055 benchtop multimeter and it agrees. Voltage starts dropping and this one goes into a virtual triangle waveform 😅 Thought something was wrong with my 100x probe per line noise so grabbed two of my handheld scopes, they showed mostly the same. It was interesting for sure. I spent more time double and triple checking this one than any other I have worked with.
Great point on the variac dropping the power factor... I was thinking the exact same thing.
@@BKD70 Power factor was .95 with this load, nothing that would skew the results to the level of fail I found in meeting spec. This was the only generator I have tested with this load that could not touch its specified output. All others exceed their ratings. Still a good value but not a 2000W generator. Could have been my sample too, never know.
I picked up this exact unit from a Facebook marketplace seller. It was brand new. Never had oil or gas in it. The labels were still across the gas cap and oil filler cap. After running for 1 hour to break in, I changed the oil. After running for 4.5 hours to break it in further, I changed the oil, but then it would not stay running. The low oil light would come on after about a minute or so of running (every time). I removed both front and rear black covers, 6 screws each, pinched off the fuel line going to the fuel valve and then removed the fuel line from the tank at the valve, then pulled off the blue housing holding the fuel tank (remove 3 screws at the bottom of each side of the blue shroud). I found the low oil shut off wire on the opposite side from the oil fill cap. The low oil shut off wire coming out of the engine is a single black thin wire that has kind of a cloth braiding around it. Follow that wire forward to its bullet connector, and then pull it. I put everything back together and it works fine. I just have to keep up on oil level now. Also, I looked on Amazon a few days ago before I bought it to look at the reviews. I looked again today but it's nowhere to be found.
It is back. Happens on Amazon. amzn.to/3PYwBpT
Inside the plastic, it looks a lot like my Ducar built Westinghouse iGen2550... nearly identical. I think RATO builds nearly all of the Champion generators... at least they used to, I haven't had opportunity to check out any of the new suitcase 1800 class models that have come out in the last couple years, they very well could have their units in this power rating built by someone else these days.
If you're not going to be using it on Federal lands... take that spark arrestor off. The engine will thank you.
Good call on the Rotella 15W40 oil... I use 15W40 heavy duty diesel oil (I use Mobil Delvac 1300 Super) in all of my small engines... have been for years and years and years. I also run the NGK Iridium spark plugs on my generators. They do make a difference.
Great video!!! Subbed!!
In the video you cannot tell how quiet they actually are! I bought one and use it for running my special effect and dmx board for photography.
It is super quiet and agreed! Have to hear it. Especially side by side with other generators.
Metal tanks are worse, they rust inside. Also when you are testing raise the load till it trips. Sometimes it will go over the rating before it trip. Even if the red light is on.
They can*** rust. Depends on levels of neglect, moisture and so forth. I have 40 year old metal tanks here that look brand new inside. I do agree though, plastic tanks have their benefits! Just surprised me to see a metal tank in it. I would think they cost more! The LED lights trip on the inverters when they sense clipping. You can see this with a scope. This takes them from being a safe, clean inverter generator to more of a square wave (depends how gracefully they clip). In short, I never want to see a generator start to clip prior to its rated output. Not cool.
Where is the oil sensor
How you find compression stroke. 50/50 chance getting right when tdc. I know play in compression stroke.
Stick your finger over the spark plug hole and pull the cord or rotate the engine. Compression stroke will push air out of the hole or feel rather neutral if it has a de-compression cam.
Or use a flashlight to look down the hole. or you can carefully use a screwdriver in the hole and watch for when it's at the top (but go slow and make sure you don't jam the screwdriver in the hole when its coming up.
@@MR_Garage
Compression stroke is the up-stroke of the piston after the exhaust valve closes...
Hi iis this better than the pulsar 2300 watts inverter generator?
I would say (without reviewing it) that the pulsar would be a better choice. My favorite budget pick is this unit, the Nexpow YH2200i. amzn.to/3z938nr which I would recommend over the pulsar. Cheaper and better features.
@@MR_Garage thank you so much sir..
I've had mine probably running at least a hundred hours. 3 oil changes I overloaded the circuit and now it will not keep running. Shuts off like low oil sensor. How hard is it to get to the low oil sensing unit? I have not removed the outer case. Thank you
Is the low oil light coming on? That would be the indication the switch is stuck. If that is not on when starting, other damage may have happened. Unfortunately, the sensor it is on the bottom of the motor and a total teardown would be needed to get to it. Or, you can trace back a single wire going to the bottom of the motor which would be the low oil pressure switch. Could bypass it.
Thank you very much. you answered my question fully, much appreciated
Can you recommend a tank extender for this type of generator?
This is what I hear the hot ticket is. I have not used it myself but should fit this generator. Most all of these have the same threads / fuel cap style. Something I will consider testing in the future. amzn.to/3Q2KMu7
Thanks for the recommendation. I will check it out.
You know iridium has a resistor cuts spark fire. Made electronic ignition. Have you found iridium without resistors
Please DO run a resistor plug for inverter generators. Note, the factory plug has a 5K resistor also. Do NOT run a non-resistor plug on modern ignition system designed for a resistor plug, and especially on do not run one on an inverter generator. The resistor is there for noise suppression and this is a sensitive electronic device! Also, being a fine wire electrode, the spark kernel is very focused with an iridium plug, unlike a junk nickel tip of yesteryear. You will not experience spark blowout or other performance issue with a fine wire electrode plug like an iridium plug and you do not need to tighten the gap on these to improve starting. These are good to go!
Hope this helps!
Well said!
@@MR_Garage