What about the ESEE 5? 5 inch blade, 1095 High Carbon, Kydex sheath, thicker then the ESEE 6 (More durable) has a built in glass breaker ( cause your not always surviving in the woods) and a bow drill divot on the handle.
@@johncrouch8988the esee 5 isn’t really a knife. it’s a pry bar with an edge, and it doesn’t hold a great edge at that. it’s way too thick at the edge to be good for actual knife tasks
@First Last People hunted gigant deer and wooly mamoth with wooden spears. They made a point on a stick and hardened it in the fire. This works, but be carefull not burning the point.
You key point was the sharpening. So many people avoid this issue and let's face it if you are not skilled at sharpening then the 1095 is going to be better to start with than a higher HRC stainless alloy/s.
Okay, Leather does not retain moisture, if you treat it. I use boiled linseed oil to water proof leather knife sheaths. And you can always use something called Snow Seal. As for cutting it or it wearing out. I guess it depends on how you use it. I think Kydex, is usually too bulky and it rattles. Yes, I have had some experience with Kydex and Cold Steel's Secur-Ex. I have since added to my collection a Khukuri with a 12 inch blade, it is the only knife in my collection I would chop and split wood with. Because, that is what it was designed to do. I will soon have a Khukuri with a six inch blade, should be very useful around camp. As for the "Over Molded" tang on some knives. Well, Buck and Kabar both do that with some of thier knives. And they are still great knives.
Gerber LMF 2 infantry is my knife of choice. A lot of my buddies used them overseas while I had nothing lol. I know it's not the best, but it's not the worst either in my opinion. Love ur channel brother, both the old and new stuff 👍🇺🇸
Good info. My take is yes, get “YOUR perfect knife”, AND equally important (imho) is the marriage to a good quality, multi purposed sheath. A sharpen stick AND a fire stick/bar attached onto the sheath. Us “Joe Average” folks have not the skills to sharpen w/ a river rock etc. , & fire is flat out necessary.
i'm just wondering about "survival" in general and i just don't get it how long are you going to survive for before either being rescued/find your way/ die ? any knife with a decent steel will (if sharp enough at the beginning) hold its edge long enough to attain any of these ends, so if i have to survive for a longer time i'm either prepared not really survival(thus a sharpening kit) or i'll have absolutely no kit and no knives at all (evasion & escape, plane crash boat wreck) maybe i'm shortsighted but i just don't get it my opinion
some experts are predicting WW3 and/or a civil war and/or a depression... too bad all of this survival stuff costs so much. that Esee-6 is about $200. I just looked up that affordable $40 knife and some guys are showing pics or videos of it breaking - but that is when they use it to chop. That $30 survival shovel seems a decent way to chop, too. $70 for 2 items or $200 for one? Depends on the person, I guess.
totally agree with the choice of Esee 6. it's not even about what it has, but everything it doesn't have. it doesn't have a narrow clip point, jimping everywhere, weirdly shaped handle, gimmicky grind, serrations, etc. it's just a well made, simple survival knife than can do it all.
Couldn't agree more about serrations. I've carried and used knives every day for literally 40 of my 45 years and have never liked or seen a need for them for the very reasons you articulated. My father and grandfathers never did either.
Thanks for your presentation of these knives. I'm 70 and still love nature and the outdoors. Too many people take much longer to present half as much info. Could say much more but for now just keep on doing what you do here. MikeC
I tend to agree with all your recommendations and recently purchased and esee 6. Thanks for an excellent, well thought out video. Years ago, I had an experience with uncoated 1095, leather sheaths and rain, would have given anything for just a kydex sheath, but that was back in the late 70's, not much of that around then. Love the esee 6, great knife! Keep up the great work you're doing!
I'm making my very first knife and this video answered a lot questions I had regarding survival knife design! Great way of explaining the do's and don't s. Many thanks!!!
Nice job! Stainless gets a bum wrap sometimes. Many knife makers say it takes more care and skill to work with but treated properly it can hold an edge and sharpen up easily. I think it's a good low maintenance choice.
Man, everybody is different. While I don't like the recurve, that SCHF-9 fits me like a glove & is the most balanced & comfortable big knife I have felt in my hand.
Survival knife, I'm going with my Bark River, Bravo 1.25 in 3V steel, with a DLT kydex sheath. I pretty much use it everyday and the set up works great. Wish more people would review Bark River, they are a great company and have lots of great designs too. Great video and great advice, I always recommend my friends to watch your channel if they are interested in getting non biased knife reviews.
I had a 5....I bought a 4 for My Nephew which I absolutely know would be a better survival knife. I have been using knives for 45 years... I find myself doing far more tasks with a 3- 4 inch blade....
Fallkniven A1, S1 and F1 are awsome. Dont know if the convex grind is hard to sharpen in the field? The spines can strike firesteels too and skrape tinder, so thats a pluss. I still would go for the 1095 over the laminated VG-10, because i have chipped my F1 a few times. It does hold an edge better than the 1095, so i guess you have to choose whats important for you. Living in Norway i like the plastic sheats the best. Kydex is not the best in cold klimates, but down to minus 10 degrees celsius its fine. Great video and great comment on the Fallknivens!
I watched so many amazing reviews about knives regardless if it's bush craft or survival knives because I love knives. And I think this is the best review I ever watched so far. You covered almost everything of the most important aspects of what a true survival knife should be. You exolained it well enough. And I totally agree with all of your opinion. You're such a very good observant person just like me. Keep it.
This video definitely helped out with what to look for in my survival knife! Thank you again for a great video and review of the knives. I ultimately ended up with the Schrade SCHF52, it included a nylon sheath, and plastic insert and also a ferro rod and striker as well as a sharpening stone with a pocket on the sheath to store the items! thumbs up!
I have a BK2, I just removed the nylon belt loop and attached a techlock and I'm still trying out different ways to carry it. I'm not so sure wearing anything scout style in the middle of your back is such a great idea. If you end up falling backwards it seems like that would really mess up your back.
jstorer1980 I carry mine on the straps of the pack I'm carrying usually the maxpedition jumbo or my usmc molle 2 only good way I could figure to carry my bk2
Great job! Very informative, you impart a lot of knowledge in an easy to understand communications style. Your passion comes through and holds interest. I have watched a lot of videos on this subject. This is one of the best.
Some people knock the ESEE 6's plastic sheath, but it will cover more environmental situations than the Kydex. Here in AZ if you leave Kydex in your vehicle on a hot summer day, the Kydex will will dis-form and the sheath will become loose and open up making the fit loose. Kydex can also become more brittle in the Cold. Now the thickness of the Kydex used makes a huge difference in this regard so if you run a Kydex sheath I would use a minimum thickness of 0.093" or else there will more issues.
awesome video! You put all factors of survival knives into perspective, gave specific examples, covered all facets including weight, thickness, and more importantly the type of metal. Amazing details and execution considerations. I think the ESEE 6 is my next purchase
Great vids. Really appreciate all the clear concise video without unintelligible jargon. As a n00b to outdoor cutlery this and your other videos have been very helpful. Subbed.
I'm now carrying the Esee Junglas II for my survival knife. I find the few extra oz and still under 20 oz. Make it better at chopping and isn't way too long.
I listened to what you have to say holding onto a Dadley. This was a favorite of Mt men during the height of the fur trade in the Rockies. Guys bought these in large numbers at least in part because they did a great job skinning fur bearers but they still over wintered in the Rockies and these blades could do about anything they needed a knife to do and they so don't meet your list. If I were going to pay any attention to your list at all I'd go with a BK-10 rather than a BK-2. They are both tough and robust but once a knife has all the metal it needs adding more just makes it heavy. Heavy means you don't have it with you when you need it.
I have 3 survival knives. If I go into our city and travel underground subways etc I bring a Gerber LMF II cause in a disaster I want non full tang insulated with serrations to cut various materials. If I travel towards the country I bring a Ka-Bar Crewman. After a disaster when people are scrounging for food I would carry my Ka-Bar USMC for fighting rather than chopping up wood along with my large tanto serrated TDI for backup. Ok 4.
Hey here is one "survival" knife seldom reviewed but I reckon it's great, The Italian company, Extrema Ratio's Ontos, just had it EDC basically for one whole month in the jungle/bush LOL.
I like your video and agree with most of what you said. I just got some knives shipped today and can hardly wait to u box them. I got a Mora and a Schrade 52. They should take care of most of the tasks I will need. Being on a low/no budget for about $50.00 I am now a HAPPY CAMPER!
Good video and excellent points! However, I think most blade/handle designs are all personal preference. For people looking for a blade, personally seeing and touching it is the best way to know if it fits your hand and if its comfortable. Thats how I picked my Schf9. That handle was made for me! Even if the knife is expensive or cheap, do your research! Sheath is the last thing I worry about. Upgrading is an option and it can be personalized to my liking. Practice using your knife too!
I'm okay with my elmax 5150 field knife. Great all around blade. I make sure I have a stone to keep it sharp in the bug out bag. The idea is to get good at keeping it sharp before shtf.
I just do camping, but I want to buy a very good knife, I have seen many videos of different kind of knife, but this one that you have made have a very good information, Thank for all details you have narrated and described for what to look in a survival knife.
Great video, Aaron! Thanks for doing this ... lots of good stuff to consider. (But you made my BK16 a little sad ... it came in a little short to qualify).
Say Heah Aaron, Usually I don't go smaller than a 6" blade. Like my Modde Rodent 6, my A-1 or my new Arvensis 119, But because my Modified Attitude is stout, I can trust it as a Survival Knife also. Job well done as usual. Thanx You. ,, .
Hey Aaron, Great video brother! I happen to own both the ESEE 6 and the BK2 and I also happen to find both of them to be my preferred go to knives as well. But I did want to mention a couple of things I have _personally_ found to be of interest. Although they are both great knives, I do happen to personally find the BK2 handle to be more comfortable and conform to the hand better than the ESEE 6's rather *blocky* handle. I really wish ESEE would make the handles more *round* in cross-section to help with comfort. The blades themselves however, are a different story. I do prefer the thickness of the ESEE 6 blade over the BK2 simply because the BK2's extremely thick blade can make doing food prep or fine carving rather difficult due to the *very obtuse* saber grind. Whereas the ESEE 6's slimmer, full flat ground blade is more conducive to a wider array of tasks. But at the end of the day, the *only* thing that makes me sometimes go for the BK2 over the ESEE 6 is the handle! The BK2 is just more comfortable _in my opinion_. But I love ESEE's no questions asked warranty policy on their knives! So you can really go into the woods and not worry about your knife! It's really a *big comfort!* Likewise, even thought Kabar doesn't have the warranty policy that ESEE does, I think you would be *VERY* hard pressed to *EVER* break a BK2... Matter of fact, I think I remember reading somewhere that Kabar stated that they have only ever had a *handful* of BK2's _ever_ come back to their factory! As for the sheaths, the BK2 *does* come with 2 optional sheaths from the factory. The original molded plastic drop sheath being more along the lines of what you were recommending. Now, I know that Ka-bar had problems with this sheath dulling the knives a while back, but I believe that issue has since been resolved. I also happen to have the ballistic nylon sheath for the BK2 and don't believe that this would really be much, if _any_, more of a burden than kydex or molded plastic personally. You are right, the ballistic nylon sheaths can rattle, but it's never bothered me nor do I find a reason that I would need to be *that* quiet LOL! If there is any rattle, it certainly is not obnoxious enough to where it would actually begin to bother me or get on my nerves. Also, one advantage that the ballistic nylon sheaths have over kydex, is that they usually have a nice little pouch on the front for a ferro rod and/or sharpener which is nice! If your kydex sheath has attachment points, I'm sure you can add on a pouch similar to how you can purchase the molle back and pouch for the ESEE 6 sheath, but once again, that goes against what your shooting for in this video. Your looking for the *most* you can get *stock* from the factory without any *modifications* or *add-ons* and it's for this reason I think the ballistic nylon's pouch is a nice touch! I think if I had the option to get any style sheath straight from the factory than yes, I would definitely go for Kydex first, then probably molded plastic, then ballistic nylon with the kydex insert. I believe any one of these options are pretty resilient and pretty impervious to weather and moisture. The ballistic nylon may get damp, but will quickly dry out, whereas leather will hold moisture _and rot_ as you mentioned in this video. In conclusion, the point I'm getting at is that handle comfort in my opinion is *as important*, if not *more important* than the knife itself! Because you could have the most well made knife in the world, but if it's uncomfortable to hold and use for extended periods, you're eventually going to stop using it... It's in this area that I think ESEE could be paying a little bit more attention... If only they could make the sides of their handles more rounded and less *flat & blocky*, their knives would be _almost_ perfect! I say _almost_ perfect because I'm still not a fan of blade coatings. They don't allow for ferro rod usage, and they look like crap once the coating starts getting worn off... The textured coatings are also generally *rough* and make it much harder to push cut due to the increased friction and drag created by the rough coating. I would rather a polished blade and deal with keeping it oiled and/or force a patina. Great job Aaron! You did a wonderful job touching upon all very valid points to be concerned with when looking for a good survival knife! I love these videos! =) Keep at it brother! PS- TurtleWolf Pack is right about a few things too. American Tanto blades are not hard to resharpen. As he said, they are merely treated as two separate straight blades - easy! Recurved blades however are a pain in the ass! The Schrade SCHF9 in this video is a recurve pattern, however nothing was mentioned about it's blade shape. The steeper the recurve, the narrower the sharpening stone has to be to get into the recurved belly properly! Most of the time however, you just have to resort to using a sharpening rod of some type. The problem with sharpening rods is that they not only don't allow you to really effectively sharpen the tip of your knife, but also will easily round off and blunt the tip of your knife if your not careful! You really _should_ use a flat stone if you want to keep a well defined, sharp tip on your knife. Personally, I would much rather carry a Tanto blade into the woods rather than a recurve blade. I would just make sure that the Tanto *did not* have a swedge. But in general, I agree with you in that I just prefer a simple standard blade shape.
Enjoyed your video very much.... a very well informed tutorial on Survival Knives, the important thing to remember is the Survival Knife has to perform various tasks good not great. The "Unknowns" of a real world survival situation demand as much preparation and informed information as possible when choosing your knife. The point must be made that the BK2 Gen2 one of the knives featured in this video is not a full tang knife.....remove the scales and you will find it has a hollow tang. My personal belief that the "Unknowns" that may present itself in a real world survival situation demand a full tang solid steel knife, failure of your Survival Knife may have life changing consequences. I do own and have used the Gen2 BK2, SCHF9, SCHF36 and Esee5. My personal criteria of a bet your life on Survival Knife is,1/4 thick drop point blade ,full solid steel tang, good ergonomics and construction (1095 steel). Therefore the Esee5 not mentioned in this video meets my personal criteria and is the knife of my choice when or if that day ever comes. Thanks again for the video Gideonstactical!
Im still happy you recommended the esee 6 a while back to me... it is even better than i expected for me with my big hands... i recently bought the molle back for it for more carry versatility and the button snap is a good secure feeling when carrying her inverted... one of my most loved blades!... greets...
That was excellent. I took notes and I'm still looking for that perfect, and actual, 'wilderness survival knife'. The one's recommended are certainly up there for contenders but I'm still researching. Thank you for the views and examples.
i packed a 440c for years not once did fail me tell drug addic stole it it was so good ill be going back to one soon ive looked at lot new knife thay can get close to my old 440c
I agree that plastic/kydex sheaths are better, however, I have found that leather and nylon sheaths are much more quiet than kydex or plastic. Just my experience.
This video came up in my feed today and, of course, I had to watch it again. 😉 I believe the TOPS Tahoma Field Knife is one of the best all around “survival knives”. One of my Tahoma’s is in my Jeep kit, and the other is my backup knife in my main wilderness bag. But my go-to blades when I’m headed out to the wilds, that I always carry, are the TOPS Armageddon and Brakimo.
I find that the upper limit for a 'knife' is around 7 inch blade, bigger than that is moving into a chopping tool. I like ESSE knives but they pricey, I can buy the near equivalent Ontario RAT 7, sheath is OK for me.
Totally agree with you/ Esee 6 for sure. However I also love my Esee 5/ it's a beast as well. Great videos you put out. I'm a big fan. Keep doing them. Stay safe.
Very helpful video.For about 2 years I've been looking for a survival knife for my BOB,and the ESSE 6 is what I have been looking to buy.Now I know that is the knife to buythanks to your video.
I cary edc folding blades all the time. My favorite is the full size Griptilian. Not that I found that I am getting into and doing research on fixed knife fir vehicle bag. I live in Nor Cal, very rural city environment. for that reason not looking for a large huge blade. I love the BK22 & LMF2. I feel they are great but tank like blades. I'm now pretty much looking at Esee RC 4/5. Thanks for the videos love the channel.
Knife definitions: Survival knife: A knife you have on you when the need unexpectedly arrives. Bushcraft Knife: A “camp knife” suitable for camp chores such as building a shelter, making a feather stick, fixing a meal or light chopping of firewood. Tactical knife: A knife capable of use as a weapon to defend yourself in case of attack of either animal or human. Pocket knife: A knife you would normally carry in your pocket in a casual way every day. (This knife sometimes becomes your survival knife.) The ideal survival knife is hardly the one you're going to have on you when the need arrives. If you're out hiking and happen to get lost and you have your “stuff” with you then you're in luck. You have the perfect situation just like it was planned, but it's usually not that way in the real world.
A small sharp blade is better for most bushcraft tasks. Its good to add a 7 dollar Mora to your kit for those tasks. And something tiny in your first aid kit.
Great video brother! I scrolled through the comments and it's really disheartening how many negative people inhabit this planet! Keep up the good work and to hell with the negativity!👊🏼
You really should check out the Ritter-Becker RSK MK2. It's more or less an esee 6 with on choil (and a thumb ramp) with the Becker handle. It's even a Rowen made blade! It's a gooder
I have to agree with the Esee 6. I was in a survival situation while camping in the Chiricahua Mountains here in Arizona and I was carrying another knife that definitely was not a survival knife. Everything turned out ok, but, I now carry my Esee 6 with me when ever I am in the wilderness. In fact part of the reason I bought an Esee 6 was your review. Great Knife!
One of your best vids! Yes, I realize it is over 4 years old now, but I just found it. So I agree that the Esee 6 is a great one, but my personal criteria includes a sub-$100 price point...actually well "sub" haha! You can't hit all the criteria at that price-point, but you can come close with the Schrade 52, and it is only 37 bucks. Its got the ballistic nylon sheath, although a good one, and it is a sabre hollow ground blade. Being this is 1/4" thick stock I don't mind a slight hollow grind. There are advantages in cutting tasks with this style blade too. Anyway, great vid!
A great modification to turn the ESEE 6 into an even better survival knife is to either switch out (if you have both), or buy a set from the esee website ($25!), the scales from your ESEE 6 with those from the ESEE 5. You get the bow drill divot and the (IMHO) better, textured, canvas micarta.
Excellent video, thank you. I am going to say the following from the standpoint of someone who has little first hand experience, so bear with me please. I don't mind to be proven wrong: When it comes to steel, 1095 is pretty much the golden standard of outdoor and survival knives and indeed - it appears to be about the most used knives in said knives also in higher price categories. But I have one point that makes me wonder: the toughness. 1095 is - whatever way you look at it - not a particularly tough steel. Even at hardness of say 58 HRC, it offers around 10 ft-lbs of toughness. In comparison, 80CrV2 is at 30+, 5160 at 45+, 51200 at 30+. When it comes to simple (and fairly easy to sharpen) stainless steels - even AEB-L is at 40+ and 12C27 at 25 and I am not even mentioning steels that have higher carbide content and thus also better edge retention (like 3V or Cruwear), as I fully follow and agree with your point that the steel should be easy to sharpen in the field (though I would still think that carrying a 1x4" sharpening stone like for example Spyderco double stuff or some small 400 grit diamond plate would go a long way with little weight penalty). 1095 in fact has toughness very comparable to S35VN, CPM-154, Elmax, Vanax or XHP. Again, nothing wrong with 1095, but when it comes to toughness it would not - to me - look like a first choice of a simple steel for a survival knife. Am I missing something obvious in the above? Just curios, nothing more. Thanks again for the great video. P.S. All the values I have mentioned are of course from Larrin's excellent article "Testing edge retention of 48 knife steels"
My sch 38 almost covers all of your criteria. even though its classed as a bushcraft knife. The 38 has a much stronger tip than the 36 and 37. It came with a really bad nylon sheath but I enjoy making kydex sheaths and doing mods to my knives. I cant do anything about the hollow grind though.
I know this is an old video, but this is my first time watching it. Another thing to consider when choosing blade steel is the environment you live in. As someone who lives in the coastal South, I've found 420HC to be my steel of choice for most of my knives, survival or otherwise. 1095 is a great steel, but during the hurricane season (F-you, Irma), it's a PITA to keep rust off of it due to the constant rains and humidity. 420HC will hold up to blatant abuse better than the super stainless', but won't rust up as quick as the full carbons.
Great description; however, I feel that 90 degree spine as described by Mr. Canterbury is a very important feature that must be included. Of course, your best knife, the ESEE man lol... Gracias
I really appreciated all your knowledge and insight. I watched your review of the Tops Silent Hero and will be ordering it next week. I live in the high desert of eastern Oregon and would rather have the quiet of the leather over the kydex. Great information in a clear concise and unbiased review, thank you.
Hi again Aaron! Man, that was a truly awesome & entertaining video...& you didn't even do any field tests bc they have already been done by you. I love my ESEE 6 & you are the one that recommended it to me! "HANDS DOWN" LOL. Thanks.
Makes me wish I had found your channel and seen this before I bought what I thought was a good survival knife. Turns out I got a okay basic knife that looks good but isn't practical for a survival knife. Excellent opinions and thoughts, Thanks.
Hi ! That's a very good video and you made very good points. I was about to do a similar video and was thinking of the things that I like and don't like on a survival / woods knife and so far I got to the same conclusions as you. I totally agree with the handle that must be confortable (Even if the blade on it is very very good I don't dig the handle on my ESEE LS and that's why I don't use it as much as the others) About the grind : I got a bark river 1.5 and like the convex very much so far (I'm still testing the blade). It might be a good alternative to the saber or FFG. Scandi is the best for carving but not as versatile as the other 3 kinds. I also agree about the clip point but for other reasons : I often use the tip/belly of the blade for delicate tasks and use the thumb of my weak hand on the spine to controle the blade. A clip point (on my USMC ka bar for exemple) is very unconfortable for this kind of thing. Thanks for sharing. ATB. Guillaume
Hi Aaron, an excellent review, I agree with you on alot of points, but in my experience, no mater how much I use just one knife, and try to use it as a one knife carry, I find theres certain areas that the knife will falls short at, in my opinion, I consider myself as a 3knife carry, a slicer usually a 3/ 1/2"-4", that I will neck carry, or attached to the front straps on my backpack, my on person carry knife, will be a 5"+-6"+ (up to my Rodent 7 size, I've been using in a one knife carry), just incase I'm seperated from my pack, a chopper 8"+-12"+, is always attached with my molle straps on the back of my pack, just to identify what knives they are, my slicer's could be the my Skookum, John Bradley "Worlds Finest Camp Knife", or my BK-14, or my Mini Scandi by Tops, or my Rodent Solution, Bushcrafter # 162, etc., my Field/Camp/ Survival Knife, could be my BK-2, or my O.K.C. Ranger Afghan, my favorites the Ratmandu, Rodent 6 without the top gaurd, it looks like a beefy Ratmandu on steriods, or my Rodent 7, they don't have simple handles, I call them the lightning bolt shape, but it is a very comfortable handle, same with that Schrade, I call that handle a seahorse shape, again a very comfortable shape, Swamp Rat Chopweiler have that shape too, my choppers could be the O.K.C. SP -53 (a beast, literally a sharp hammer), SP-51, my favorite the Rodent 9, BK-9, BK-4, or one of my Khukuris etc., even my C.S. Kukuri Plus in 0-1, I'm always trying to reduce my knife carry, but always fall short in certain areas, if I don't consider a saw, and axe as a knife carry, three knives shine, my Ratmandu, or the Rodent 6, or the Rodent 7, plus the saw, and axe, the more I try to keep it simple, the more complicated it becomes, great food for thought, like I said before, I really enjoy your videos, keep up the good work, I do understand your point, you did a great job on what a survival knife should be, and you made that point clear, and I totally agree with you, but I find, I need multiple carry, using your criteria on each knife I carry, because, just one knife, it will fall short in certain areas, again, Thanx alot, good job.
paulie 4x Thanks so much for the comment and compliment. I don't disagree with you and I rarely carry only one fixed blade. I wanted to give a general idea of what to look for in a survival knife. It is my number one question I get from people, is what's a good survival/bushcraft knife. Thank again and I like hearing your point of view!
What pisses me off about every video I see on survival knives or just knives in general is, people keep saying that bushcraft knives are different than survival knives. It's like everyone makes it seem like your planing before hand to go out and have that kind of situation, or I guess we all need to carry both kinds of knives with us you know just in case. You as a woods man need to pick a knife that can do many tasks well so you don't get fucked the day you really have a problem, and the I'm never going to have anything happen to me is foolish, just ask that dude that had to cut off his arm. Shit happens no matter how much you think you know.
I totally agree that unless your like Chris from preparedmind101. That is going to modify every piece of gear he gets to make it perfect for you, the ESEE 6 is as close to perfect out the box as you can expect out of a 120$ knife. I just wish it had a 90 degree spine for striking fire steels and bark scraping. Great video Aaron! Keep them coming
ok aron and thanks for your advise. i like too the boker vox rold. i'll not choose the esee 6 because too expensive for me ; i'm french and in France this knife is at 190 eu !!! it will complete my small fixed blade made in corsica (french island in the South of France). i'll show you pics of this knife craft handing... thanks again and let's keep in touch please. thanks again.
Say Heah Aaron, Yup, I like to carry a small/large Knives. It just depends how you carry them. Last weekend I used a older combo that I have for a while now. I took my O. K. C. Ranger Afghan and my Ranger RD-9 I also used my BK-14 as my neck knife. Oh, and I brought my WoW Folding Saw. I sharpened my Rangers on my Work Sharp and all three blades are very sharp. Old reliables is what I call them. I beat on them and I have no worries using them hard. Oh, don't get me wrong, there's a difference using them hard and abusing them. I treat them with care when I'm not using them. I clean and keep them oiled. But also those O. K. C. Boxy Handles need to be filed or sanded down to fit your hand. Yeah, the Rangers were designed by a Army Ranger so he had survival in mind when they were designed. The Ranger Afghan I used as my fine task knife e. I. feathersticking, twist splitting kindling and sling off Bark of sticks. The Ranger RD-9 is more like my Survival Knife that I can baton chop with. L@@King at the edge my Afghan has a continuous curve actually similar to a Mora believe it or not. The RD-9 has a straight edge which will form wood similar to a Carpenter Hatchet. But at a 1/4 and not too wide so there's not alot of wood drag it splits real good. I wanted to buy another set just like it incase they grew legs and walked away. But just the Afghan I seen sold for $300.00 yeah, go figure. Anyhow, that's why I carry both knives. I do that with most of my knives. As usual another good review, Keep up the good work.,,. p
I've been doing this kind of stuff since 1969, and I have to say, you have impressed me. I have to agree with Literally Melvin, though, digging with a blade is a no-no. You blade is a valuable resource, conserve it at all costs.
Gorgeous scene at the start. I agree on most points; woods knives do not need serrations, jimping, choils, or finger grooves. Length, sheath, and steel choice I leave up to the informed user. Woodscraft knife is something completely different. ESSE6 is a good choice. Spend x$ on a knife it should be good to go, no custom sheath or handles needed. Your view of Kraton is totally subjective, have you actually seen a handle failure?
shcmoly Thanks for the comment and opinion. Yes I have owned 2 cold steal knives, the SRK and Gurkha Kukri, both of which hand their kraton handles loosen up on me, and broke my LMF 2 and damaged a Spec Plus Ontario. So, for the purpose of a "survival knife" it has to be as reliable, strong, and easy to fix as possible. From my experience I would never bet my life to a enclosed tang knife. For bushcraft that is a totally different story and I will touch on that in an upcoming, "What to look for in a bushcraft knife," video.
I choose the Gerber prodigy. Was that a descent choice or should I go get something else ? And hello from Kentucky land between the lakes and God bless. 🇺🇸 🇬🇧 🇨🇦
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What about the ESEE 5? 5 inch blade, 1095 High Carbon, Kydex sheath, thicker then the ESEE 6 (More durable) has a built in glass breaker ( cause your not always surviving in the woods) and a bow drill divot on the handle.
Love mine!👍🏴
@@johncrouch8988the esee 5 isn’t really a knife. it’s a pry bar with an edge, and it doesn’t hold a great edge at that. it’s way too thick at the edge to be good for actual knife tasks
i dont think you should dig with a knife, instead you could sharpen and flat out a stick with the knife and use that to dig
that's a really smart idea.
Exactly... and don't tie your knife to a stick to make a spear. Use your knife to make other tools.
wo0w thx
@First Last
People hunted gigant deer and wooly mamoth with wooden spears. They made a point on a stick and hardened it in the fire. This works, but be carefull not burning the point.
@@Strength-in-Union
You are wellcome.
But make sure to have a backup weapon.
Just in case...
You key point was the sharpening. So many people avoid this issue and let's face it if you are not skilled at sharpening then the 1095 is going to be better to start with than a higher HRC stainless alloy/s.
Okay, Leather does not retain moisture, if you treat it. I use boiled linseed oil to water proof leather knife sheaths. And you can always use something called Snow Seal. As for cutting it or it wearing out. I guess it depends on how you use it. I think Kydex, is usually too bulky and it rattles. Yes, I have had some experience with Kydex and Cold Steel's Secur-Ex. I have since added to my collection a Khukuri with a 12 inch blade, it is the only knife in my collection I would chop and split wood with. Because, that is what it was designed to do. I will soon have a Khukuri with a six inch blade, should be very useful around camp. As for the "Over Molded" tang on some knives. Well, Buck and Kabar both do that with some of thier knives. And they are still great knives.
I love my esse 6. Your video review of the knife made me choose it for my first special blade and i couldn't be happier.
eliezer vazquez Glad to hear that!
Esee 6 is a solid choice. Bit pricy for me. I like my Bushman.
Gerber LMF 2 infantry is my knife of choice. A lot of my buddies used them overseas while I had nothing lol. I know it's not the best, but it's not the worst either in my opinion. Love ur channel brother, both the old and new stuff 👍🇺🇸
Good info. My take is yes, get “YOUR perfect knife”, AND equally important (imho) is the marriage to a good quality, multi purposed sheath. A sharpen stick AND a fire stick/bar attached onto the sheath. Us “Joe Average” folks have not the skills to sharpen w/ a river rock etc. , & fire is flat out necessary.
i'm just wondering about "survival" in general and i just don't get it how long are you going to survive for before either being rescued/find your way/ die ? any knife with a decent steel will (if sharp enough at the beginning) hold its edge long enough to attain any of these ends, so if i have to survive for a longer time i'm either prepared not really survival(thus a sharpening kit) or i'll have absolutely no kit and no knives at all (evasion & escape, plane crash boat wreck)
maybe i'm shortsighted but i just don't get it
my opinion
some experts are predicting WW3 and/or a civil war and/or a depression...
too bad all of this survival stuff costs so much. that Esee-6 is about $200. I just looked up that affordable $40 knife and some guys are showing pics or videos of it breaking - but that is when they use it to chop. That $30 survival shovel seems a decent way to chop, too. $70 for 2 items or $200 for one? Depends on the person, I guess.
totally agree with the choice of Esee 6. it's not even about what it has, but everything it doesn't have. it doesn't have a narrow clip point, jimping everywhere, weirdly shaped handle, gimmicky grind, serrations, etc. it's just a well made, simple survival knife than can do it all.
Couldn't agree more about serrations. I've carried and used knives every day for literally 40 of my 45 years and have never liked or seen a need for them for the very reasons you articulated. My father and grandfathers never did either.
Thanks for your presentation of these knives. I'm 70 and still love nature and the outdoors. Too many people take much longer to present half as much info. Could say much more but for now just keep on doing what you do here.
MikeC
You still alive?
I recently rewatched this episode and remembered why your channel is Awesome. Thank you for insights, keep up the great work :))
But, but, but.......... Rambo has survived through Washington State, Vietnam, Afghanistan, Burma with his big knife. Hahahahhahaha!
I tend to agree with all your recommendations and recently purchased and esee 6. Thanks for an excellent, well thought out video. Years ago, I had an experience with uncoated 1095, leather sheaths and rain, would have given anything for just a kydex sheath, but that was back in the late 70's, not much of that around then. Love the esee 6, great knife! Keep up the great work you're doing!
I'm making my very first knife and this video answered a lot questions I had regarding survival knife design! Great way of explaining the do's and don't s. Many thanks!!!
Thanks some much!
👍
Nice job! Stainless gets a bum wrap sometimes. Many knife makers say it takes more care and skill to work with but treated properly it can hold an edge and sharpen up easily. I think it's a good low maintenance choice.
Man, everybody is different. While I don't like the recurve, that SCHF-9 fits me like a glove & is the most balanced & comfortable big knife I have felt in my hand.
Survival knife, I'm going with my Bark River, Bravo 1.25 in 3V steel, with a DLT kydex sheath. I pretty much use it everyday and the set up works great. Wish more people would review Bark River, they are a great company and have lots of great designs too. Great video and great advice, I always recommend my friends to watch your channel if they are interested in getting non biased knife reviews.
Great Knive but how u Scharping in the Field 😏 Convex and 3v never ever trust me👈
V grind is better.. And littl Dimond stone from Dmt
I like the ESEE 4 best because of size and weight. I have a pouch on mine for survival gear.
I had a 5....I bought a 4 for My Nephew which I absolutely know would be a better survival knife. I have been using knives for 45 years... I find myself doing far more tasks with a 3- 4 inch blade....
I like my esee 6hm. I agree with what you said. Too many people think edge retention is everything.
Possilbly your best video to date. I use the Fallkniven A1 but I can't argue with any of your opinions.
TheOgieone Thanks for the complement!
Fallkniven A1, S1 and F1 are awsome. Dont know if the convex grind is hard to sharpen in the field? The spines can strike firesteels too and skrape tinder, so thats a pluss. I still would go for the 1095 over the laminated VG-10, because i have chipped my F1 a few times. It does hold an edge better than the 1095, so i guess you have to choose whats important for you. Living in Norway i like the plastic sheats the best. Kydex is not the best in cold klimates, but down to minus 10 degrees celsius its fine. Great video and great comment on the Fallknivens!
I watched so many amazing reviews about knives regardless if it's bush craft or survival knives because I love knives. And I think this is the best review I ever watched so far. You covered almost everything of the most important aspects of what a true survival knife should be. You exolained it well enough. And I totally agree with all of your opinion. You're such a very good observant person just like me. Keep it.
Seth Ventura Thank you every much. Thank means a lot.
This video definitely helped out with what to look for in my survival knife! Thank you again for a great video and review of the knives. I ultimately ended up with the Schrade SCHF52, it included a nylon sheath, and plastic insert and also a ferro rod and striker as well as a sharpening stone with a pocket on the sheath to store the items! thumbs up!
I have a BK2, I just removed the nylon belt loop and attached a techlock and I'm still trying out different ways to carry it. I'm not so sure wearing anything scout style in the middle of your back is such a great idea. If you end up falling backwards it seems like that would really mess up your back.
jstorer1980 I carry mine on the straps of the pack I'm carrying usually the maxpedition jumbo or my usmc molle 2 only good way I could figure to carry my bk2
jstorer1980 with the tecloc lol removed the nylon from mine 2
Can you do a video about your preferences for a smaller companion knife? Like an MSK 2.5, bk14, izula, and anything else.
Love my BK7. That and a folding saw satisfy all my camp tasks and bushcraft needs. I’ll add survival to that list, too. No ax, no buck saw.
Great job! Very informative, you impart a lot of knowledge in an easy to understand communications style. Your passion comes through and holds interest. I have watched a lot of videos on this subject. This is one of the best.
Some people knock the ESEE 6's plastic sheath, but it will cover more environmental situations than the Kydex. Here in AZ if you leave Kydex in your vehicle on a hot summer day, the Kydex will will dis-form and the sheath will become loose and open up making the fit loose. Kydex can also become more brittle in the Cold. Now the thickness of the Kydex used makes a huge difference in this regard so if you run a Kydex sheath I would use a minimum thickness of 0.093" or else there will more issues.
The very-best discussion on the subject matter that has ever been presented.
awesome video! You put all factors of survival knives into perspective, gave specific examples, covered all facets including weight, thickness, and more importantly the type of metal. Amazing details and execution considerations. I think the ESEE 6 is my next purchase
Toby Cumbee Thank you very much and you will not be sorry.
Great vids. Really appreciate all the clear concise video without unintelligible jargon. As a n00b to outdoor cutlery this and your other videos have been very helpful. Subbed.
Precious Roy Thanks and welcome to the GT family.
Great video Aaron! That location at the start of the video... Amazing...
I'm now carrying the Esee Junglas II for my survival knife. I find the few extra oz and still under 20 oz. Make it better at chopping and isn't way too long.
Probably the best and most informative video on survival knives I've ever watched thank you
Well done Aaron. Excellent execution and perfectly presented. 2 thumbs up!
I listened to what you have to say holding onto a Dadley. This was a favorite of Mt men during the height of the fur trade in the Rockies. Guys bought these in large numbers at least in part because they did a great job skinning fur bearers but they still over wintered in the Rockies and these blades could do about anything they needed a knife to do and they so don't meet your list.
If I were going to pay any attention to your list at all I'd go with a BK-10 rather than a BK-2. They are both tough and robust but once a knife has all the metal it needs adding more just makes it heavy. Heavy means you don't have it with you when you need it.
I have 3 survival knives. If I go into our city and travel underground subways etc I bring a Gerber LMF II cause in a disaster I want non full tang insulated with serrations to cut various materials.
If I travel towards the country I bring a Ka-Bar Crewman. After a disaster when people are scrounging for food I would carry my Ka-Bar USMC for fighting rather than chopping up wood along with my large tanto serrated TDI for backup. Ok 4.
Hey here is one "survival" knife seldom reviewed but I reckon it's great, The Italian company, Extrema Ratio's Ontos, just had it EDC basically for one whole month in the jungle/bush LOL.
I like your video and agree with most of what you said. I just got some knives shipped today and can hardly wait to u box them. I got a Mora and a Schrade 52. They should take care of most of the tasks I will need. Being on a low/no budget for about $50.00 I am now a HAPPY CAMPER!
Excellent video! Thanks for defining a survival knife and what characteristics to look for. This is a big help.
OryGun Patriot Glad I could help you out!
Good video and excellent points! However, I think most blade/handle designs are all personal preference. For people looking for a blade, personally seeing and touching it is the best way to know if it fits your hand and if its comfortable. Thats how I picked my Schf9. That handle was made for me! Even if the knife is expensive or cheap, do your research! Sheath is the last thing I worry about. Upgrading is an option and it can be personalized to my liking. Practice using your knife too!
7:59 as a Tanto blade fanatic, I can confirm this,lol I ruined many blade profiles by not knowing how to sharpen where the two edges meet lol
I'm okay with my elmax 5150 field knife. Great all around blade. I make sure I have a stone to keep it sharp in the bug out bag. The idea is to get good at keeping it sharp before shtf.
British Army MOD knife. Great video dude!
I just do camping, but I want to buy a very good knife, I have seen many videos of different kind of knife, but this one that you have made have a very good information, Thank for all details you have narrated and described for what to look in a survival knife.
Great video. As always really appreciate your thoughts on the subject.
Great video, Aaron! Thanks for doing this ... lots of good stuff to consider. (But you made my BK16 a little sad ... it came in a little short to qualify).
Say Heah Aaron, Usually I don't go smaller than a 6" blade. Like my Modde Rodent 6, my A-1 or my new Arvensis 119, But because my Modified Attitude is stout, I can trust it as a Survival Knife also. Job well done as usual. Thanx You. ,, .
i finally bought a ESEE 6 !! Thanks for your nice videos and advise again.
Badagry 76 Sweet! Glad you like it.
For example 4116 stainless is fine material also. Takes a lot of abuse, does not rust and can be sharpened outside. Like on CS Leatherneck.
Hey Aaron,
Great video brother! I happen to own both the ESEE 6 and the BK2 and I also happen to find both of them to be my preferred go to knives as well. But I did want to mention a couple of things I have _personally_ found to be of interest.
Although they are both great knives, I do happen to personally find the BK2 handle to be more comfortable and conform to the hand better than the ESEE 6's rather *blocky* handle. I really wish ESEE would make the handles more *round* in cross-section to help with comfort.
The blades themselves however, are a different story. I do prefer the thickness of the ESEE 6 blade over the BK2 simply because the BK2's extremely thick blade can make doing food prep or fine carving rather difficult due to the *very obtuse* saber grind. Whereas the ESEE 6's slimmer, full flat ground blade is more conducive to a wider array of tasks.
But at the end of the day, the *only* thing that makes me sometimes go for the BK2 over the ESEE 6 is the handle! The BK2 is just more comfortable _in my opinion_. But I love ESEE's no questions asked warranty policy on their knives! So you can really go into the woods and not worry about your knife! It's really a *big comfort!* Likewise, even thought Kabar doesn't have the warranty policy that ESEE does, I think you would be *VERY* hard pressed to *EVER* break a BK2... Matter of fact, I think I remember reading somewhere that Kabar stated that they have only ever had a *handful* of BK2's _ever_ come back to their factory!
As for the sheaths, the BK2 *does* come with 2 optional sheaths from the factory. The original molded plastic drop sheath being more along the lines of what you were recommending. Now, I know that Ka-bar had problems with this sheath dulling the knives a while back, but I believe that issue has since been resolved. I also happen to have the ballistic nylon sheath for the BK2 and don't believe that this would really be much, if _any_, more of a burden than kydex or molded plastic personally. You are right, the ballistic nylon sheaths can rattle, but it's never bothered me nor do I find a reason that I would need to be *that* quiet LOL! If there is any rattle, it certainly is not obnoxious enough to where it would actually begin to bother me or get on my nerves. Also, one advantage that the ballistic nylon sheaths have over kydex, is that they usually have a nice little pouch on the front for a ferro rod and/or sharpener which is nice! If your kydex sheath has attachment points, I'm sure you can add on a pouch similar to how you can purchase the molle back and pouch for the ESEE 6 sheath, but once again, that goes against what your shooting for in this video. Your looking for the *most* you can get *stock* from the factory without any *modifications* or *add-ons* and it's for this reason I think the ballistic nylon's pouch is a nice touch!
I think if I had the option to get any style sheath straight from the factory than yes, I would definitely go for Kydex first, then probably molded plastic, then ballistic nylon with the kydex insert. I believe any one of these options are pretty resilient and pretty impervious to weather and moisture. The ballistic nylon may get damp, but will quickly dry out, whereas leather will hold moisture _and rot_ as you mentioned in this video.
In conclusion, the point I'm getting at is that handle comfort in my opinion is *as important*, if not *more important* than the knife itself! Because you could have the most well made knife in the world, but if it's uncomfortable to hold and use for extended periods, you're eventually going to stop using it... It's in this area that I think ESEE could be paying a little bit more attention... If only they could make the sides of their handles more rounded and less *flat & blocky*, their knives would be _almost_ perfect! I say _almost_ perfect because I'm still not a fan of blade coatings. They don't allow for ferro rod usage, and they look like crap once the coating starts getting worn off... The textured coatings are also generally *rough* and make it much harder to push cut due to the increased friction and drag created by the rough coating. I would rather a polished blade and deal with keeping it oiled and/or force a patina.
Great job Aaron! You did a wonderful job touching upon all very valid points to be concerned with when looking for a good survival knife! I love these videos! =) Keep at it brother!
PS- TurtleWolf Pack is right about a few things too. American Tanto blades are not hard to resharpen. As he said, they are merely treated as two separate straight blades - easy!
Recurved blades however are a pain in the ass! The Schrade SCHF9 in this video is a recurve pattern, however nothing was mentioned about it's blade shape. The steeper the recurve, the narrower the sharpening stone has to be to get into the recurved belly properly! Most of the time however, you just have to resort to using a sharpening rod of some type. The problem with sharpening rods is that they not only don't allow you to really effectively sharpen the tip of your knife, but also will easily round off and blunt the tip of your knife if your not careful! You really _should_ use a flat stone if you want to keep a well defined, sharp tip on your knife.
Personally, I would much rather carry a Tanto blade into the woods rather than a recurve blade. I would just make sure that the Tanto *did not* have a swedge. But in general, I agree with you in that I just prefer a simple standard blade shape.
***** Right on, thank you for the comment and points you made. I appreciate hearing from your experience.
gideonstactical just edited the post and added to it FYI =)
Enjoyed your video very much.... a very well informed tutorial on Survival Knives, the important thing to remember is the Survival Knife has to perform various tasks good not great. The "Unknowns" of a real world survival situation demand as much preparation and informed information as possible when choosing your knife. The point must be made that the BK2 Gen2 one of the knives featured in this video is not a full tang knife.....remove the scales and you will find it has a hollow tang. My personal belief that the "Unknowns" that may present itself in a real world survival situation demand a full tang solid steel knife, failure of your Survival Knife may have life changing consequences. I do own and have used the Gen2 BK2, SCHF9, SCHF36 and Esee5. My personal criteria of a bet your life on Survival Knife is,1/4 thick drop point blade ,full solid steel tang, good ergonomics and construction (1095 steel). Therefore the Esee5 not mentioned in this video meets my personal criteria and is the knife of my choice when or if that day ever comes. Thanks again for the video Gideonstactical!
David Waters Thanks for the comment and insight.
I carry multiple blades a terrasaur a rat 7 and an off grid tracker x I just recently bought a skrama
Couldn’t agree more. Love my 6
Im still happy you recommended the esee 6 a while back to me... it is even better than i expected for me with my big hands... i recently bought the molle back for it for more carry versatility and the button snap is a good secure feeling when carrying her inverted... one of my most loved blades!... greets...
That was excellent. I took notes and I'm still looking for that perfect, and actual, 'wilderness survival knife'. The one's recommended are certainly up there for contenders but I'm still researching. Thank you for the views and examples.
i packed a 440c for years not once did fail me tell drug addic stole it it was so good ill be going back to one soon ive looked at lot new knife thay can get close to my old 440c
I agree that plastic/kydex sheaths are better, however, I have found that leather and nylon sheaths are much more quiet than kydex or plastic. Just my experience.
This video came up in my feed today and, of course, I had to watch it again. 😉
I believe the TOPS Tahoma Field Knife is one of the best all around “survival knives”. One of my Tahoma’s is in my Jeep kit, and the other is my backup knife in my main wilderness bag.
But my go-to blades when I’m headed out to the wilds, that I always carry, are the TOPS Armageddon and Brakimo.
I find that the upper limit for a 'knife' is around 7 inch blade, bigger than that is moving into a chopping tool. I like ESSE knives but they pricey, I can buy the near equivalent Ontario RAT 7, sheath is OK for me.
Totally agree with you/ Esee 6 for sure. However I also love my Esee 5/ it's a beast as well.
Great videos you put out. I'm a big fan.
Keep doing them.
Stay safe.
Very helpful video.For about 2 years I've been looking for a survival knife for my BOB,and the ESSE 6 is what I have been looking to buy.Now I know that is the knife to buythanks to your video.
305ssmonte Glad I could help.
I'd still consider the Ontario Spec Plus line survival knives. Haven't had any problems with mine.
Excellent info. What about some budget blade choices say for knives in the sub $50-$60 range?
TheGoatMumbler The two in the video SCHRADE schf9 or schf37.
I cary edc folding blades all the time. My favorite is the full size Griptilian. Not that I found that I am getting into and doing research on fixed knife fir vehicle bag. I live in Nor Cal, very rural city environment. for that reason not looking for a large huge blade. I love the BK22 & LMF2. I feel they are great but tank like blades. I'm now pretty much looking at Esee RC 4/5. Thanks for the videos love the channel.
I know I’m kinda late, but this is a great video, lots of good info. Thanks.
I agree with you on the esee 6 only cause of the sheath and micarta but the better knife if you upgrade is the bk7
Knife definitions:
Survival knife: A knife you have on you when the need unexpectedly arrives.
Bushcraft Knife: A “camp knife” suitable for camp chores such as building a shelter, making a feather stick, fixing a meal or light chopping of firewood.
Tactical knife: A knife capable of use as a weapon to defend yourself in case of attack of either animal or human.
Pocket knife: A knife you would normally carry in your pocket in a casual way every day. (This knife sometimes becomes your survival knife.)
The ideal survival knife is hardly the one you're going to have on you when the need arrives. If you're out hiking and happen to get lost and you have your “stuff” with you then you're in luck. You have the perfect situation just like it was planned, but it's usually not that way in the real world.
A small sharp blade is better for most bushcraft tasks. Its good to add a 7 dollar Mora to your kit for those tasks. And something tiny in your first aid kit.
Great video brother! I scrolled through the comments and it's really disheartening how many negative people inhabit this planet! Keep up the good work and to hell with the negativity!👊🏼
You really should check out the Ritter-Becker RSK MK2. It's more or less an esee 6 with on choil (and a thumb ramp) with the Becker handle. It's even a Rowen made blade! It's a gooder
I have to agree with the Esee 6. I was in a survival situation while camping in the Chiricahua Mountains here in Arizona and I was carrying another knife that definitely was not a survival knife. Everything turned out ok, but, I now carry my Esee 6 with me when ever I am in the wilderness. In fact part of the reason I bought an Esee 6 was your review. Great Knife!
One of your best vids! Yes, I realize it is over 4 years old now, but I just found it. So I agree that the Esee 6 is a great one, but my personal criteria includes a sub-$100 price point...actually well "sub" haha! You can't hit all the criteria at that price-point, but you can come close with the Schrade 52, and it is only 37 bucks. Its got the ballistic nylon sheath, although a good one, and it is a sabre hollow ground blade. Being this is 1/4" thick stock I don't mind a slight hollow grind. There are advantages in cutting tasks with this style blade too. Anyway, great vid!
A great modification to turn the ESEE 6 into an even better survival knife is to either switch out (if you have both), or buy a set from the esee website ($25!), the scales from your ESEE 6 with those from the ESEE 5. You get the bow drill divot and the (IMHO) better, textured, canvas micarta.
Excellent video, thank you. I am going to say the following from the standpoint of someone who has little first hand experience, so bear with me please. I don't mind to be proven wrong:
When it comes to steel, 1095 is pretty much the golden standard of outdoor and survival knives and indeed - it appears to be about the most used knives in said knives also in higher price categories. But I have one point that makes me wonder: the toughness. 1095 is - whatever way you look at it - not a particularly tough steel. Even at hardness of say 58 HRC, it offers around 10 ft-lbs of toughness. In comparison, 80CrV2 is at 30+, 5160 at 45+, 51200 at 30+.
When it comes to simple (and fairly easy to sharpen) stainless steels - even AEB-L is at 40+ and 12C27 at 25 and I am not even mentioning steels that have higher carbide content and thus also better edge retention (like 3V or Cruwear), as I fully follow and agree with your point that the steel should be easy to sharpen in the field (though I would still think that carrying a 1x4" sharpening stone like for example Spyderco double stuff or some small 400 grit diamond plate would go a long way with little weight penalty). 1095 in fact has toughness very comparable to S35VN, CPM-154, Elmax, Vanax or XHP. Again, nothing wrong with 1095, but when it comes to toughness it would not - to me - look like a first choice of a simple steel for a survival knife.
Am I missing something obvious in the above? Just curios, nothing more. Thanks again for the great video.
P.S. All the values I have mentioned are of course from Larrin's excellent article "Testing edge retention of 48 knife steels"
AWESOME video Aaron! and great topic, I fully agree with your conclusion!
Keep up the top work
I prefer the finger grooves but not the hump on top I used my thumb to press and navigate or balance.
My sch 38 almost covers all of your criteria. even though its classed as a bushcraft knife.
The 38 has a much stronger tip than the 36 and 37.
It came with a really bad nylon sheath but I enjoy making kydex sheaths and doing mods to my knives. I cant do anything about the hollow grind though.
I know this is an old video, but this is my first time watching it.
Another thing to consider when choosing blade steel is the environment you live in. As someone who lives in the coastal South, I've found 420HC to be my steel of choice for most of my knives, survival or otherwise. 1095 is a great steel, but during the hurricane season (F-you, Irma), it's a PITA to keep rust off of it due to the constant rains and humidity. 420HC will hold up to blatant abuse better than the super stainless', but won't rust up as quick as the full carbons.
Great description; however, I feel that 90 degree spine as described by Mr. Canterbury is a very important feature that must be included. Of course, your best knife, the ESEE man lol... Gracias
I really appreciated all your knowledge and insight. I watched your review of the Tops Silent Hero and will be ordering it next week. I live in the high desert of eastern Oregon and would rather have the quiet of the leather over the kydex. Great information in a clear concise and unbiased review, thank you.
Hi again Aaron! Man, that was a truly awesome & entertaining video...& you didn't even do any field tests bc they have already been done by you. I love my ESEE 6 & you are the one that recommended it to me! "HANDS DOWN" LOL. Thanks.
Great video! I'm going to get the Esee 6. Thanks
Makes me wish I had found your channel and seen this before I bought what I thought was a good survival knife. Turns out I got a okay basic knife that looks good but isn't practical for a survival knife. Excellent opinions and thoughts, Thanks.
Hi ! That's a very good video and you made very good points.
I was about to do a similar video and was thinking of the things that I like and don't like on a survival / woods knife and so far I got to the same conclusions as you.
I totally agree with the handle that must be confortable (Even if the blade on it is very very good I don't dig the handle on my ESEE LS and that's why I don't use it as much as the others)
About the grind : I got a bark river 1.5 and like the convex very much so far (I'm still testing the blade). It might be a good alternative to the saber or FFG. Scandi is the best for carving but not as versatile as the other 3 kinds.
I also agree about the clip point but for other reasons : I often use the tip/belly of the blade for delicate tasks and use the thumb of my weak hand on the spine to controle the blade. A clip point (on my USMC ka bar for exemple) is very unconfortable for this kind of thing.
Thanks for sharing.
ATB. Guillaume
***** Thanks so much for the complement and comment.
Hi Aaron, an excellent review, I agree with you on alot of points, but in my experience, no mater how much I use just one knife, and try to use it as a one knife carry, I find theres certain areas that the knife will falls short at, in my opinion, I consider myself as a 3knife carry, a slicer usually a 3/ 1/2"-4", that I will neck carry, or attached to the front straps on my backpack, my on person carry knife, will be a 5"+-6"+ (up to my Rodent 7 size, I've been using in a one knife carry), just incase I'm seperated from my pack, a chopper 8"+-12"+, is always attached with my molle straps on the back of my pack, just to identify what knives they are, my slicer's could be the my Skookum, John Bradley "Worlds Finest Camp Knife", or my BK-14, or my Mini Scandi by Tops, or my Rodent Solution, Bushcrafter # 162, etc., my Field/Camp/ Survival Knife, could be my BK-2, or my O.K.C. Ranger Afghan, my favorites the Ratmandu, Rodent 6 without the top gaurd, it looks like a beefy Ratmandu on steriods, or my Rodent 7, they don't have simple handles, I call them the lightning bolt shape, but it is a very comfortable handle, same with that Schrade, I call that handle a seahorse shape, again a very comfortable shape, Swamp Rat Chopweiler have that shape too, my choppers could be the O.K.C. SP -53 (a beast, literally a sharp hammer), SP-51, my favorite the Rodent 9, BK-9, BK-4, or one of my Khukuris etc., even my C.S. Kukuri Plus in 0-1, I'm always trying to reduce my knife carry, but always fall short in certain areas, if I don't consider a saw, and axe as a knife carry, three knives shine, my Ratmandu, or the Rodent 6, or the Rodent 7, plus the saw, and axe, the more I try to keep it simple, the more complicated it becomes, great food for thought, like I said before, I really enjoy your videos, keep up the good work, I do understand your point, you did a great job on what a survival knife should be, and you made that point clear, and I totally agree with you, but I find, I need multiple carry, using your criteria on each knife I carry, because, just one knife, it will fall short in certain areas, again, Thanx alot, good job.
paulie 4x Thanks so much for the comment and compliment. I don't disagree with you and I rarely carry only one fixed blade. I wanted to give a general idea of what to look for in a survival knife. It is my number one question I get from people, is what's a good survival/bushcraft knife. Thank again and I like hearing your point of view!
What pisses me off about every video I see on survival knives or just knives in general is, people keep saying that bushcraft knives are different than survival knives. It's like everyone makes it seem like your planing before hand to go out and have that kind of situation, or I guess we all need to carry both kinds of knives with us you know just in case. You as a woods man need to pick a knife that can do many tasks well so you don't get fucked the day you really have a problem, and the I'm never going to have anything happen to me is foolish, just ask that dude that had to cut off his arm. Shit happens no matter how much you think you know.
I totally agree that unless your like Chris from preparedmind101. That is going to modify every piece of gear he gets to make it perfect for you, the ESEE 6 is as close to perfect out the box as you can expect out of a 120$ knife. I just wish it had a 90 degree spine for striking fire steels and bark scraping. Great video Aaron! Keep them coming
utubecronie Thanks so much!
I thought the Esee 6 had a 90 angle on the top of the blade? Yes or no?
Sweet I like to go backpacking with your reccommended esee 6, leatherman wave and a fiskars hatchet
Macho Nacho Glad to hear it, that is a great set up!
ok aron and thanks for your advise. i like too the boker vox rold. i'll not choose the esee 6 because too expensive for me ; i'm french and in France this knife is at 190 eu !!! it will complete my small fixed blade made in corsica (french island in the South of France). i'll show you pics of this knife craft handing... thanks again and let's keep in touch please. thanks again.
dude the new intro is awesome I love it wih that music
Great video! Very clear, easily understandable presentation.
By far the best video I've seen on that topic so far. Really appreciate your effort. Thanks for sharing!
Best regards from Munich,
Stefan
OutdoorFamilyAdventure Glad I could help!
THANKS FOR THE INFO !!!
I WENT WITH THE BK9
BLACKARROW .ASSASSIN Sweet!
Thanks for the definition! (BC/Survival) 🙂
love my esee 6!!
good video
Say Heah Aaron, Yup, I like to carry a small/large Knives. It just depends how you carry them. Last weekend I used a older combo that I have for a while now. I took my O. K. C. Ranger Afghan and my Ranger RD-9 I also used my BK-14 as my neck knife. Oh, and I brought my WoW Folding Saw. I sharpened my Rangers on my Work Sharp and all three blades are very sharp. Old reliables is what I call them. I beat on them and I have no worries using them hard. Oh, don't get me wrong, there's a difference using them hard and abusing them. I treat them with care when I'm not using them. I clean and keep them oiled. But also those O. K. C. Boxy Handles need to be filed or sanded down to fit your hand. Yeah, the Rangers were designed by a Army Ranger so he had survival in mind when they were designed. The Ranger Afghan I used as my fine task knife e. I. feathersticking, twist splitting kindling and sling off Bark of sticks. The Ranger RD-9 is more like my Survival Knife that I can baton chop with. L@@King at the edge my Afghan has a continuous curve actually similar to a Mora believe it or not. The RD-9 has a straight edge which will form wood similar to a Carpenter Hatchet. But at a 1/4 and not too wide so there's not alot of wood drag it splits real good. I wanted to buy another set just like it incase they grew legs and walked away. But just the Afghan I seen sold for $300.00 yeah, go figure. Anyhow, that's why I carry both knives. I do that with most of my knives. As usual another good review, Keep up the good work.,,. p
I've been doing this kind of stuff since 1969, and I have to say, you have impressed me. I have to agree with Literally Melvin, though, digging with a blade is a no-no. You blade is a valuable resource, conserve it at all costs.
Gorgeous scene at the start. I agree on most points; woods knives do not need serrations, jimping, choils, or finger grooves. Length, sheath, and steel choice I leave up to the informed user. Woodscraft knife is something completely different. ESSE6 is a good choice. Spend x$ on a knife it should be good to go, no custom sheath or handles needed. Your view of Kraton is totally subjective, have you actually seen a handle failure?
shcmoly Thanks for the comment and opinion. Yes I have owned 2 cold steal knives, the SRK and Gurkha Kukri, both of which hand their kraton handles loosen up on me, and broke my LMF 2 and damaged a Spec Plus Ontario. So, for the purpose of a "survival knife" it has to be as reliable, strong, and easy to fix as possible. From my experience I would never bet my life to a enclosed tang knife. For bushcraft that is a totally different story and I will touch on that in an upcoming, "What to look for in a bushcraft knife," video.
I choose the Gerber prodigy. Was that a descent choice or should I go get something else ? And hello from Kentucky land between the lakes and God bless. 🇺🇸 🇬🇧 🇨🇦