@First Last People hunted gigant deer and wooly mamoth with wooden spears. They made a point on a stick and hardened it in the fire. This works, but be carefull not burning the point.
Gerber LMF 2 infantry is my knife of choice. A lot of my buddies used them overseas while I had nothing lol. I know it's not the best, but it's not the worst either in my opinion. Love ur channel brother, both the old and new stuff 👍🇺🇸
You key point was the sharpening. So many people avoid this issue and let's face it if you are not skilled at sharpening then the 1095 is going to be better to start with than a higher HRC stainless alloy/s.
What about the ESEE 5? 5 inch blade, 1095 High Carbon, Kydex sheath, thicker then the ESEE 6 (More durable) has a built in glass breaker ( cause your not always surviving in the woods) and a bow drill divot on the handle.
@@johncrouch8988the esee 5 isn’t really a knife. it’s a pry bar with an edge, and it doesn’t hold a great edge at that. it’s way too thick at the edge to be good for actual knife tasks
Good info. My take is yes, get “YOUR perfect knife”, AND equally important (imho) is the marriage to a good quality, multi purposed sheath. A sharpen stick AND a fire stick/bar attached onto the sheath. Us “Joe Average” folks have not the skills to sharpen w/ a river rock etc. , & fire is flat out necessary.
Thanks for your presentation of these knives. I'm 70 and still love nature and the outdoors. Too many people take much longer to present half as much info. Could say much more but for now just keep on doing what you do here. MikeC
Okay, Leather does not retain moisture, if you treat it. I use boiled linseed oil to water proof leather knife sheaths. And you can always use something called Snow Seal. As for cutting it or it wearing out. I guess it depends on how you use it. I think Kydex, is usually too bulky and it rattles. Yes, I have had some experience with Kydex and Cold Steel's Secur-Ex. I have since added to my collection a Khukuri with a 12 inch blade, it is the only knife in my collection I would chop and split wood with. Because, that is what it was designed to do. I will soon have a Khukuri with a six inch blade, should be very useful around camp. As for the "Over Molded" tang on some knives. Well, Buck and Kabar both do that with some of thier knives. And they are still great knives.
Man, everybody is different. While I don't like the recurve, that SCHF-9 fits me like a glove & is the most balanced & comfortable big knife I have felt in my hand.
totally agree with the choice of Esee 6. it's not even about what it has, but everything it doesn't have. it doesn't have a narrow clip point, jimping everywhere, weirdly shaped handle, gimmicky grind, serrations, etc. it's just a well made, simple survival knife than can do it all.
Couldn't agree more about serrations. I've carried and used knives every day for literally 40 of my 45 years and have never liked or seen a need for them for the very reasons you articulated. My father and grandfathers never did either.
Nice job! Stainless gets a bum wrap sometimes. Many knife makers say it takes more care and skill to work with but treated properly it can hold an edge and sharpen up easily. I think it's a good low maintenance choice.
I'm making my very first knife and this video answered a lot questions I had regarding survival knife design! Great way of explaining the do's and don't s. Many thanks!!!
i'm just wondering about "survival" in general and i just don't get it how long are you going to survive for before either being rescued/find your way/ die ? any knife with a decent steel will (if sharp enough at the beginning) hold its edge long enough to attain any of these ends, so if i have to survive for a longer time i'm either prepared not really survival(thus a sharpening kit) or i'll have absolutely no kit and no knives at all (evasion & escape, plane crash boat wreck) maybe i'm shortsighted but i just don't get it my opinion
some experts are predicting WW3 and/or a civil war and/or a depression... too bad all of this survival stuff costs so much. that Esee-6 is about $200. I just looked up that affordable $40 knife and some guys are showing pics or videos of it breaking - but that is when they use it to chop. That $30 survival shovel seems a decent way to chop, too. $70 for 2 items or $200 for one? Depends on the person, I guess.
I watched so many amazing reviews about knives regardless if it's bush craft or survival knives because I love knives. And I think this is the best review I ever watched so far. You covered almost everything of the most important aspects of what a true survival knife should be. You exolained it well enough. And I totally agree with all of your opinion. You're such a very good observant person just like me. Keep it.
I tend to agree with all your recommendations and recently purchased and esee 6. Thanks for an excellent, well thought out video. Years ago, I had an experience with uncoated 1095, leather sheaths and rain, would have given anything for just a kydex sheath, but that was back in the late 70's, not much of that around then. Love the esee 6, great knife! Keep up the great work you're doing!
Survival knife, I'm going with my Bark River, Bravo 1.25 in 3V steel, with a DLT kydex sheath. I pretty much use it everyday and the set up works great. Wish more people would review Bark River, they are a great company and have lots of great designs too. Great video and great advice, I always recommend my friends to watch your channel if they are interested in getting non biased knife reviews.
This video definitely helped out with what to look for in my survival knife! Thank you again for a great video and review of the knives. I ultimately ended up with the Schrade SCHF52, it included a nylon sheath, and plastic insert and also a ferro rod and striker as well as a sharpening stone with a pocket on the sheath to store the items! thumbs up!
Say Heah Aaron, Usually I don't go smaller than a 6" blade. Like my Modde Rodent 6, my A-1 or my new Arvensis 119, But because my Modified Attitude is stout, I can trust it as a Survival Knife also. Job well done as usual. Thanx You. ,, .
Great vids. Really appreciate all the clear concise video without unintelligible jargon. As a n00b to outdoor cutlery this and your other videos have been very helpful. Subbed.
awesome video! You put all factors of survival knives into perspective, gave specific examples, covered all facets including weight, thickness, and more importantly the type of metal. Amazing details and execution considerations. I think the ESEE 6 is my next purchase
I have a BK2, I just removed the nylon belt loop and attached a techlock and I'm still trying out different ways to carry it. I'm not so sure wearing anything scout style in the middle of your back is such a great idea. If you end up falling backwards it seems like that would really mess up your back.
jstorer1980 I carry mine on the straps of the pack I'm carrying usually the maxpedition jumbo or my usmc molle 2 only good way I could figure to carry my bk2
Hey here is one "survival" knife seldom reviewed but I reckon it's great, The Italian company, Extrema Ratio's Ontos, just had it EDC basically for one whole month in the jungle/bush LOL.
Great job! Very informative, you impart a lot of knowledge in an easy to understand communications style. Your passion comes through and holds interest. I have watched a lot of videos on this subject. This is one of the best.
Some people knock the ESEE 6's plastic sheath, but it will cover more environmental situations than the Kydex. Here in AZ if you leave Kydex in your vehicle on a hot summer day, the Kydex will will dis-form and the sheath will become loose and open up making the fit loose. Kydex can also become more brittle in the Cold. Now the thickness of the Kydex used makes a huge difference in this regard so if you run a Kydex sheath I would use a minimum thickness of 0.093" or else there will more issues.
I had a 5....I bought a 4 for My Nephew which I absolutely know would be a better survival knife. I have been using knives for 45 years... I find myself doing far more tasks with a 3- 4 inch blade....
Great video, Aaron! Thanks for doing this ... lots of good stuff to consider. (But you made my BK16 a little sad ... it came in a little short to qualify).
Hey Aaron, Great video brother! I happen to own both the ESEE 6 and the BK2 and I also happen to find both of them to be my preferred go to knives as well. But I did want to mention a couple of things I have _personally_ found to be of interest. Although they are both great knives, I do happen to personally find the BK2 handle to be more comfortable and conform to the hand better than the ESEE 6's rather *blocky* handle. I really wish ESEE would make the handles more *round* in cross-section to help with comfort. The blades themselves however, are a different story. I do prefer the thickness of the ESEE 6 blade over the BK2 simply because the BK2's extremely thick blade can make doing food prep or fine carving rather difficult due to the *very obtuse* saber grind. Whereas the ESEE 6's slimmer, full flat ground blade is more conducive to a wider array of tasks. But at the end of the day, the *only* thing that makes me sometimes go for the BK2 over the ESEE 6 is the handle! The BK2 is just more comfortable _in my opinion_. But I love ESEE's no questions asked warranty policy on their knives! So you can really go into the woods and not worry about your knife! It's really a *big comfort!* Likewise, even thought Kabar doesn't have the warranty policy that ESEE does, I think you would be *VERY* hard pressed to *EVER* break a BK2... Matter of fact, I think I remember reading somewhere that Kabar stated that they have only ever had a *handful* of BK2's _ever_ come back to their factory! As for the sheaths, the BK2 *does* come with 2 optional sheaths from the factory. The original molded plastic drop sheath being more along the lines of what you were recommending. Now, I know that Ka-bar had problems with this sheath dulling the knives a while back, but I believe that issue has since been resolved. I also happen to have the ballistic nylon sheath for the BK2 and don't believe that this would really be much, if _any_, more of a burden than kydex or molded plastic personally. You are right, the ballistic nylon sheaths can rattle, but it's never bothered me nor do I find a reason that I would need to be *that* quiet LOL! If there is any rattle, it certainly is not obnoxious enough to where it would actually begin to bother me or get on my nerves. Also, one advantage that the ballistic nylon sheaths have over kydex, is that they usually have a nice little pouch on the front for a ferro rod and/or sharpener which is nice! If your kydex sheath has attachment points, I'm sure you can add on a pouch similar to how you can purchase the molle back and pouch for the ESEE 6 sheath, but once again, that goes against what your shooting for in this video. Your looking for the *most* you can get *stock* from the factory without any *modifications* or *add-ons* and it's for this reason I think the ballistic nylon's pouch is a nice touch! I think if I had the option to get any style sheath straight from the factory than yes, I would definitely go for Kydex first, then probably molded plastic, then ballistic nylon with the kydex insert. I believe any one of these options are pretty resilient and pretty impervious to weather and moisture. The ballistic nylon may get damp, but will quickly dry out, whereas leather will hold moisture _and rot_ as you mentioned in this video. In conclusion, the point I'm getting at is that handle comfort in my opinion is *as important*, if not *more important* than the knife itself! Because you could have the most well made knife in the world, but if it's uncomfortable to hold and use for extended periods, you're eventually going to stop using it... It's in this area that I think ESEE could be paying a little bit more attention... If only they could make the sides of their handles more rounded and less *flat & blocky*, their knives would be _almost_ perfect! I say _almost_ perfect because I'm still not a fan of blade coatings. They don't allow for ferro rod usage, and they look like crap once the coating starts getting worn off... The textured coatings are also generally *rough* and make it much harder to push cut due to the increased friction and drag created by the rough coating. I would rather a polished blade and deal with keeping it oiled and/or force a patina. Great job Aaron! You did a wonderful job touching upon all very valid points to be concerned with when looking for a good survival knife! I love these videos! =) Keep at it brother! PS- TurtleWolf Pack is right about a few things too. American Tanto blades are not hard to resharpen. As he said, they are merely treated as two separate straight blades - easy! Recurved blades however are a pain in the ass! The Schrade SCHF9 in this video is a recurve pattern, however nothing was mentioned about it's blade shape. The steeper the recurve, the narrower the sharpening stone has to be to get into the recurved belly properly! Most of the time however, you just have to resort to using a sharpening rod of some type. The problem with sharpening rods is that they not only don't allow you to really effectively sharpen the tip of your knife, but also will easily round off and blunt the tip of your knife if your not careful! You really _should_ use a flat stone if you want to keep a well defined, sharp tip on your knife. Personally, I would much rather carry a Tanto blade into the woods rather than a recurve blade. I would just make sure that the Tanto *did not* have a swedge. But in general, I agree with you in that I just prefer a simple standard blade shape.
Knife definitions: Survival knife: A knife you have on you when the need unexpectedly arrives. Bushcraft Knife: A “camp knife” suitable for camp chores such as building a shelter, making a feather stick, fixing a meal or light chopping of firewood. Tactical knife: A knife capable of use as a weapon to defend yourself in case of attack of either animal or human. Pocket knife: A knife you would normally carry in your pocket in a casual way every day. (This knife sometimes becomes your survival knife.) The ideal survival knife is hardly the one you're going to have on you when the need arrives. If you're out hiking and happen to get lost and you have your “stuff” with you then you're in luck. You have the perfect situation just like it was planned, but it's usually not that way in the real world.
Good video and excellent points! However, I think most blade/handle designs are all personal preference. For people looking for a blade, personally seeing and touching it is the best way to know if it fits your hand and if its comfortable. Thats how I picked my Schf9. That handle was made for me! Even if the knife is expensive or cheap, do your research! Sheath is the last thing I worry about. Upgrading is an option and it can be personalized to my liking. Practice using your knife too!
I choose the Gerber prodigy. Was that a descent choice or should I go get something else ? And hello from Kentucky land between the lakes and God bless. 🇺🇸 🇬🇧 🇨🇦
Excellent video, thank you. I am going to say the following from the standpoint of someone who has little first hand experience, so bear with me please. I don't mind to be proven wrong: When it comes to steel, 1095 is pretty much the golden standard of outdoor and survival knives and indeed - it appears to be about the most used knives in said knives also in higher price categories. But I have one point that makes me wonder: the toughness. 1095 is - whatever way you look at it - not a particularly tough steel. Even at hardness of say 58 HRC, it offers around 10 ft-lbs of toughness. In comparison, 80CrV2 is at 30+, 5160 at 45+, 51200 at 30+. When it comes to simple (and fairly easy to sharpen) stainless steels - even AEB-L is at 40+ and 12C27 at 25 and I am not even mentioning steels that have higher carbide content and thus also better edge retention (like 3V or Cruwear), as I fully follow and agree with your point that the steel should be easy to sharpen in the field (though I would still think that carrying a 1x4" sharpening stone like for example Spyderco double stuff or some small 400 grit diamond plate would go a long way with little weight penalty). 1095 in fact has toughness very comparable to S35VN, CPM-154, Elmax, Vanax or XHP. Again, nothing wrong with 1095, but when it comes to toughness it would not - to me - look like a first choice of a simple steel for a survival knife. Am I missing something obvious in the above? Just curios, nothing more. Thanks again for the great video. P.S. All the values I have mentioned are of course from Larrin's excellent article "Testing edge retention of 48 knife steels"
Enjoyed your video very much.... a very well informed tutorial on Survival Knives, the important thing to remember is the Survival Knife has to perform various tasks good not great. The "Unknowns" of a real world survival situation demand as much preparation and informed information as possible when choosing your knife. The point must be made that the BK2 Gen2 one of the knives featured in this video is not a full tang knife.....remove the scales and you will find it has a hollow tang. My personal belief that the "Unknowns" that may present itself in a real world survival situation demand a full tang solid steel knife, failure of your Survival Knife may have life changing consequences. I do own and have used the Gen2 BK2, SCHF9, SCHF36 and Esee5. My personal criteria of a bet your life on Survival Knife is,1/4 thick drop point blade ,full solid steel tang, good ergonomics and construction (1095 steel). Therefore the Esee5 not mentioned in this video meets my personal criteria and is the knife of my choice when or if that day ever comes. Thanks again for the video Gideonstactical!
I like your video and agree with most of what you said. I just got some knives shipped today and can hardly wait to u box them. I got a Mora and a Schrade 52. They should take care of most of the tasks I will need. Being on a low/no budget for about $50.00 I am now a HAPPY CAMPER!
This video came up in my feed today and, of course, I had to watch it again. 😉 I believe the TOPS Tahoma Field Knife is one of the best all around “survival knives”. One of my Tahoma’s is in my Jeep kit, and the other is my backup knife in my main wilderness bag. But my go-to blades when I’m headed out to the wilds, that I always carry, are the TOPS Armageddon and Brakimo.
I just do camping, but I want to buy a very good knife, I have seen many videos of different kind of knife, but this one that you have made have a very good information, Thank for all details you have narrated and described for what to look in a survival knife.
I'm now carrying the Esee Junglas II for my survival knife. I find the few extra oz and still under 20 oz. Make it better at chopping and isn't way too long.
One of your best vids! Yes, I realize it is over 4 years old now, but I just found it. So I agree that the Esee 6 is a great one, but my personal criteria includes a sub-$100 price point...actually well "sub" haha! You can't hit all the criteria at that price-point, but you can come close with the Schrade 52, and it is only 37 bucks. Its got the ballistic nylon sheath, although a good one, and it is a sabre hollow ground blade. Being this is 1/4" thick stock I don't mind a slight hollow grind. There are advantages in cutting tasks with this style blade too. Anyway, great vid!
I listened to what you have to say holding onto a Dadley. This was a favorite of Mt men during the height of the fur trade in the Rockies. Guys bought these in large numbers at least in part because they did a great job skinning fur bearers but they still over wintered in the Rockies and these blades could do about anything they needed a knife to do and they so don't meet your list. If I were going to pay any attention to your list at all I'd go with a BK-10 rather than a BK-2. They are both tough and robust but once a knife has all the metal it needs adding more just makes it heavy. Heavy means you don't have it with you when you need it.
Fallkniven A1, S1 and F1 are awsome. Dont know if the convex grind is hard to sharpen in the field? The spines can strike firesteels too and skrape tinder, so thats a pluss. I still would go for the 1095 over the laminated VG-10, because i have chipped my F1 a few times. It does hold an edge better than the 1095, so i guess you have to choose whats important for you. Living in Norway i like the plastic sheats the best. Kydex is not the best in cold klimates, but down to minus 10 degrees celsius its fine. Great video and great comment on the Fallknivens!
Great video brother! I scrolled through the comments and it's really disheartening how many negative people inhabit this planet! Keep up the good work and to hell with the negativity!👊🏼
I find that the upper limit for a 'knife' is around 7 inch blade, bigger than that is moving into a chopping tool. I like ESSE knives but they pricey, I can buy the near equivalent Ontario RAT 7, sheath is OK for me.
That was excellent. I took notes and I'm still looking for that perfect, and actual, 'wilderness survival knife'. The one's recommended are certainly up there for contenders but I'm still researching. Thank you for the views and examples.
I have 3 survival knives. If I go into our city and travel underground subways etc I bring a Gerber LMF II cause in a disaster I want non full tang insulated with serrations to cut various materials. If I travel towards the country I bring a Ka-Bar Crewman. After a disaster when people are scrounging for food I would carry my Ka-Bar USMC for fighting rather than chopping up wood along with my large tanto serrated TDI for backup. Ok 4.
Very helpful video.For about 2 years I've been looking for a survival knife for my BOB,and the ESSE 6 is what I have been looking to buy.Now I know that is the knife to buythanks to your video.
Only problem with having a knife set only for survival is unless you carry it everytime you leave the house you're more than likely not gonna have it when it's needed
I have to agree with the Esee 6. I was in a survival situation while camping in the Chiricahua Mountains here in Arizona and I was carrying another knife that definitely was not a survival knife. Everything turned out ok, but, I now carry my Esee 6 with me when ever I am in the wilderness. In fact part of the reason I bought an Esee 6 was your review. Great Knife!
Hey dude, how about a survival-at-sea situation? You know, you're 1,000 miles from land, your boat is sinking under your feet, you grab your ditch bag and get in the raft. I'd think you would want a stainless knife in your ditch bag rather than 1095 steel. What do you think?
Hi ! That's a very good video and you made very good points. I was about to do a similar video and was thinking of the things that I like and don't like on a survival / woods knife and so far I got to the same conclusions as you. I totally agree with the handle that must be confortable (Even if the blade on it is very very good I don't dig the handle on my ESEE LS and that's why I don't use it as much as the others) About the grind : I got a bark river 1.5 and like the convex very much so far (I'm still testing the blade). It might be a good alternative to the saber or FFG. Scandi is the best for carving but not as versatile as the other 3 kinds. I also agree about the clip point but for other reasons : I often use the tip/belly of the blade for delicate tasks and use the thumb of my weak hand on the spine to controle the blade. A clip point (on my USMC ka bar for exemple) is very unconfortable for this kind of thing. Thanks for sharing. ATB. Guillaume
I've been doing this kind of stuff since 1969, and I have to say, you have impressed me. I have to agree with Literally Melvin, though, digging with a blade is a no-no. You blade is a valuable resource, conserve it at all costs.
Awesome vids, brother. I have a couple questions, though. 1. Does the Ontario RAT 7 serve as a lower cost alternative to the esee 6 sighing this videos guidelines? 2. Would you recommend carrying something like the SRK along with the more suitable knives? 3. Can you please do a video about a 2 or 3 knife system and what to look for/your recommendations. Thanks.
Michael Clark I do plan an making a few videos to help with those type of questions. The Rat7 is a good knife, but I usually see it for around $85 on amazon.com, and the ESEE6 is $113 at knifeworks.com it is better to save a little more and get the ESEE6. The srk is a good knife, and would be a fine knife to pair with a bigger knife like and RTAK II, BK9, or ESEE Junglas. Hope that helps you.
ok aron and thanks for your advise. i like too the boker vox rold. i'll not choose the esee 6 because too expensive for me ; i'm french and in France this knife is at 190 eu !!! it will complete my small fixed blade made in corsica (french island in the South of France). i'll show you pics of this knife craft handing... thanks again and let's keep in touch please. thanks again.
A small sharp blade is better for most bushcraft tasks. Its good to add a 7 dollar Mora to your kit for those tasks. And something tiny in your first aid kit.
All your points are valid though at the end it sounded a little bit like an Esee sales pitch. Where is that you shot this video? Beautiful country. I would like to visit it one day. And a nice looking dog. I love dogs. What is its name?
Hi again Aaron! Man, that was a truly awesome & entertaining video...& you didn't even do any field tests bc they have already been done by you. I love my ESEE 6 & you are the one that recommended it to me! "HANDS DOWN" LOL. Thanks.
nice video. I don't entirely agree with all of your points. I have used a Cold Steel Trailmaster & Recon Scout for over 20 years with heavy batoning and never had a problem with the Krayton Handle becoming loose. Even if it did, I don't know what you mean by saying that you cannot just wrap it paracorde. additionally, I use the carbon V versions of the trailmaster, recon Scout & BK-7 and the damage to the baton is overstated. I have modified the spine to 90% and filed down the thumb ramps & guards and that is my only mods. I would be interested in knowing in what ways you felt the silent hero was superior to the Esse 6? Thanks for the yeoman's work in your video's
I'm okay with my elmax 5150 field knife. Great all around blade. I make sure I have a stone to keep it sharp in the bug out bag. The idea is to get good at keeping it sharp before shtf.
Totally agree with you/ Esee 6 for sure. However I also love my Esee 5/ it's a beast as well. Great videos you put out. I'm a big fan. Keep doing them. Stay safe.
GREAT video!! Anyone getting ready to purchase a survival knife should definitely watch this video. So what is your second choice for those not a fan of finger choils? Would it be the ESEE 5? BK2? Or some other blade?
Say Heah Aaron, Yup, I like to carry a small/large Knives. It just depends how you carry them. Last weekend I used a older combo that I have for a while now. I took my O. K. C. Ranger Afghan and my Ranger RD-9 I also used my BK-14 as my neck knife. Oh, and I brought my WoW Folding Saw. I sharpened my Rangers on my Work Sharp and all three blades are very sharp. Old reliables is what I call them. I beat on them and I have no worries using them hard. Oh, don't get me wrong, there's a difference using them hard and abusing them. I treat them with care when I'm not using them. I clean and keep them oiled. But also those O. K. C. Boxy Handles need to be filed or sanded down to fit your hand. Yeah, the Rangers were designed by a Army Ranger so he had survival in mind when they were designed. The Ranger Afghan I used as my fine task knife e. I. feathersticking, twist splitting kindling and sling off Bark of sticks. The Ranger RD-9 is more like my Survival Knife that I can baton chop with. L@@King at the edge my Afghan has a continuous curve actually similar to a Mora believe it or not. The RD-9 has a straight edge which will form wood similar to a Carpenter Hatchet. But at a 1/4 and not too wide so there's not alot of wood drag it splits real good. I wanted to buy another set just like it incase they grew legs and walked away. But just the Afghan I seen sold for $300.00 yeah, go figure. Anyhow, that's why I carry both knives. I do that with most of my knives. As usual another good review, Keep up the good work.,,. p
I agree that plastic/kydex sheaths are better, however, I have found that leather and nylon sheaths are much more quiet than kydex or plastic. Just my experience.
i packed a 440c for years not once did fail me tell drug addic stole it it was so good ill be going back to one soon ive looked at lot new knife thay can get close to my old 440c
I cary edc folding blades all the time. My favorite is the full size Griptilian. Not that I found that I am getting into and doing research on fixed knife fir vehicle bag. I live in Nor Cal, very rural city environment. for that reason not looking for a large huge blade. I love the BK22 & LMF2. I feel they are great but tank like blades. I'm now pretty much looking at Esee RC 4/5. Thanks for the videos love the channel.
Hey Aaron. Great tips. Can I ask: Does the black powder coating detract from a blades firestarting potential???? Specifically asking about 1095/1075 HC steel...
I totally agree that unless your like Chris from preparedmind101. That is going to modify every piece of gear he gets to make it perfect for you, the ESEE 6 is as close to perfect out the box as you can expect out of a 120$ knife. I just wish it had a 90 degree spine for striking fire steels and bark scraping. Great video Aaron! Keep them coming
I want to get a good knife I'm torn between the tops Bob and the tops tex Creek XL what do u think. i carry a folder, wingman, tops something we will see and a good little ax in the woods
Portability 5 inch blade is plenty I disagree with your choice of steals 5160 is okay for axe heads and 1095 is okay but I would go with an Elma steel Good sheath made out of leather are are Kydex maybe an extra pouch strapped to the outside of the sheath for a sharpening stone maybe a diamond stone some matches some fish hooks some dental floss and some superglue
Im still happy you recommended the esee 6 a while back to me... it is even better than i expected for me with my big hands... i recently bought the molle back for it for more carry versatility and the button snap is a good secure feeling when carrying her inverted... one of my most loved blades!... greets...
I have a BK2 with Micarta and an Izula 2 right now. I think they go well together. Definitely need to mod the BK2 sheath. I'll be getting custom Kydex. Why the Esee 6 over the Esee 5? My guess is more weight makes it a better chopper comparable to the BK2, yet the full flat grind helps with tasks like skinning.
I appreciate your videos a lot. But the Esee 6 I've seen break under heavy use. 1095 is a great steel and the thing I don't like about the esee 6 is that it doesn't bend and isn't made of spring steel. A good knife must bend or it will break, like any higher-quality blade. I appreciate your reviews and your tests and imo the esee series break under heavy use. I've seen demos of it. Imho the cold steel srk is the best knife, and the san main ones are best to use in a survival situation as the exposed tang of the esee 6 or 4, etc, creates hot spots and the reverberations hurt your hands. The exposed tang can easily hurt your hand and the scales will break or snap at The hilt. That's just what I've seen and I know about knives I've taken hiking and camping really roughing in tents and sleeping on the hard ground with blankets. and building fires by splitting wood with my knives. And cutting open cans with the strong tips of my cold steel knives. Whereas all the Sog, buck, bench made, etc knives I've had over the years all couldn't handle the heavy use I put them all through. in my experience the cold steel srk San mai or strong steel made by cold steel knives are immensely better than any other. Brand of knives I've ever owned.
My sch 38 almost covers all of your criteria. even though its classed as a bushcraft knife. The 38 has a much stronger tip than the 36 and 37. It came with a really bad nylon sheath but I enjoy making kydex sheaths and doing mods to my knives. I cant do anything about the hollow grind though.
Aaron, I agree with everything you say in this video. I have a question ... I'm looking for a knife basically like the ESEE 6, but with a 5" - 5 1/2" blade. I, like you, prefer the full flat grind, and a drop point blade. I'd also rather have a 3/16" thickness, so that rules out the BK2 and the ESEE 5 (too thick) - and the Ontario Blackbird (too thin). Any suggestions? Thanks!
rlauck I'm looking at the Becker BK10 for that category. It's not a drop point, but the clip(for stabbing in an emergency) is short, and still leaves you with a lot of spine(for a 5 1/2" blade) for batoning, draw knife etc. I don't need a BK2, because I already have the heavy Nowell MOD3 survival knife(7" blade drop point, quarter inch thick, full tang, 1085 low to mid fifties Rockwell, so just about indestructible for prying, hammering, digging, batoning, blunt instrument etc).
I have watched more reviews than most. I have more knives than most. I am 64 and can say I like your vids as well as ANY I HAVE SEEN. I am into canoe and kayaking and keep a deck bag loaded with stuff I take in motor boat as well as paddling. Not so much if in a pack. Well in this I have a BK2. Will have in back pack also if doing that. On belt I have for years carried a BK7 or ESEE 6 untill last year or so I seem to have gone down in size. BK16 .Benchmade 162. Laser Strike,Mora Bushcraft, I find better for belt carry. I also have a multi tool and ESEE 3 on me most always. I seem to like a Tomahawk and smaller knife of late. I carry a chest holster with handgun as not good arounf waist if in kayak. Anyway I do like and respect your vids. I hope u keep it going.
Gorgeous scene at the start. I agree on most points; woods knives do not need serrations, jimping, choils, or finger grooves. Length, sheath, and steel choice I leave up to the informed user. Woodscraft knife is something completely different. ESSE6 is a good choice. Spend x$ on a knife it should be good to go, no custom sheath or handles needed. Your view of Kraton is totally subjective, have you actually seen a handle failure?
shcmoly Thanks for the comment and opinion. Yes I have owned 2 cold steal knives, the SRK and Gurkha Kukri, both of which hand their kraton handles loosen up on me, and broke my LMF 2 and damaged a Spec Plus Ontario. So, for the purpose of a "survival knife" it has to be as reliable, strong, and easy to fix as possible. From my experience I would never bet my life to a enclosed tang knife. For bushcraft that is a totally different story and I will touch on that in an upcoming, "What to look for in a bushcraft knife," video.
i dont think you should dig with a knife, instead you could sharpen and flat out a stick with the knife and use that to dig
that's a really smart idea.
Exactly... and don't tie your knife to a stick to make a spear. Use your knife to make other tools.
wo0w thx
@First Last
People hunted gigant deer and wooly mamoth with wooden spears. They made a point on a stick and hardened it in the fire. This works, but be carefull not burning the point.
@@Strength-in-Union
You are wellcome.
But make sure to have a backup weapon.
Just in case...
Gerber LMF 2 infantry is my knife of choice. A lot of my buddies used them overseas while I had nothing lol. I know it's not the best, but it's not the worst either in my opinion. Love ur channel brother, both the old and new stuff 👍🇺🇸
You key point was the sharpening. So many people avoid this issue and let's face it if you are not skilled at sharpening then the 1095 is going to be better to start with than a higher HRC stainless alloy/s.
What about the ESEE 5? 5 inch blade, 1095 High Carbon, Kydex sheath, thicker then the ESEE 6 (More durable) has a built in glass breaker ( cause your not always surviving in the woods) and a bow drill divot on the handle.
Love mine!👍🏴
@@johncrouch8988the esee 5 isn’t really a knife. it’s a pry bar with an edge, and it doesn’t hold a great edge at that. it’s way too thick at the edge to be good for actual knife tasks
Good info. My take is yes, get “YOUR perfect knife”, AND equally important (imho) is the marriage to a good quality, multi purposed sheath. A sharpen stick AND a fire stick/bar attached onto the sheath. Us “Joe Average” folks have not the skills to sharpen w/ a river rock etc. , & fire is flat out necessary.
Thanks for your presentation of these knives. I'm 70 and still love nature and the outdoors. Too many people take much longer to present half as much info. Could say much more but for now just keep on doing what you do here.
MikeC
You still alive?
Okay, Leather does not retain moisture, if you treat it. I use boiled linseed oil to water proof leather knife sheaths. And you can always use something called Snow Seal. As for cutting it or it wearing out. I guess it depends on how you use it. I think Kydex, is usually too bulky and it rattles. Yes, I have had some experience with Kydex and Cold Steel's Secur-Ex. I have since added to my collection a Khukuri with a 12 inch blade, it is the only knife in my collection I would chop and split wood with. Because, that is what it was designed to do. I will soon have a Khukuri with a six inch blade, should be very useful around camp. As for the "Over Molded" tang on some knives. Well, Buck and Kabar both do that with some of thier knives. And they are still great knives.
I love my esse 6. Your video review of the knife made me choose it for my first special blade and i couldn't be happier.
eliezer vazquez Glad to hear that!
Esee 6 is a solid choice. Bit pricy for me. I like my Bushman.
But, but, but.......... Rambo has survived through Washington State, Vietnam, Afghanistan, Burma with his big knife. Hahahahhahaha!
Man, everybody is different. While I don't like the recurve, that SCHF-9 fits me like a glove & is the most balanced & comfortable big knife I have felt in my hand.
totally agree with the choice of Esee 6. it's not even about what it has, but everything it doesn't have. it doesn't have a narrow clip point, jimping everywhere, weirdly shaped handle, gimmicky grind, serrations, etc. it's just a well made, simple survival knife than can do it all.
I like my esee 6hm. I agree with what you said. Too many people think edge retention is everything.
Couldn't agree more about serrations. I've carried and used knives every day for literally 40 of my 45 years and have never liked or seen a need for them for the very reasons you articulated. My father and grandfathers never did either.
I recently rewatched this episode and remembered why your channel is Awesome. Thank you for insights, keep up the great work :))
Nice job! Stainless gets a bum wrap sometimes. Many knife makers say it takes more care and skill to work with but treated properly it can hold an edge and sharpen up easily. I think it's a good low maintenance choice.
I'm making my very first knife and this video answered a lot questions I had regarding survival knife design! Great way of explaining the do's and don't s. Many thanks!!!
Thanks some much!
👍
Love my BK7. That and a folding saw satisfy all my camp tasks and bushcraft needs. I’ll add survival to that list, too. No ax, no buck saw.
i'm just wondering about "survival" in general and i just don't get it how long are you going to survive for before either being rescued/find your way/ die ? any knife with a decent steel will (if sharp enough at the beginning) hold its edge long enough to attain any of these ends, so if i have to survive for a longer time i'm either prepared not really survival(thus a sharpening kit) or i'll have absolutely no kit and no knives at all (evasion & escape, plane crash boat wreck)
maybe i'm shortsighted but i just don't get it
my opinion
some experts are predicting WW3 and/or a civil war and/or a depression...
too bad all of this survival stuff costs so much. that Esee-6 is about $200. I just looked up that affordable $40 knife and some guys are showing pics or videos of it breaking - but that is when they use it to chop. That $30 survival shovel seems a decent way to chop, too. $70 for 2 items or $200 for one? Depends on the person, I guess.
The very-best discussion on the subject matter that has ever been presented.
I watched so many amazing reviews about knives regardless if it's bush craft or survival knives because I love knives. And I think this is the best review I ever watched so far. You covered almost everything of the most important aspects of what a true survival knife should be. You exolained it well enough. And I totally agree with all of your opinion. You're such a very good observant person just like me. Keep it.
Seth Ventura Thank you every much. Thank means a lot.
I tend to agree with all your recommendations and recently purchased and esee 6. Thanks for an excellent, well thought out video. Years ago, I had an experience with uncoated 1095, leather sheaths and rain, would have given anything for just a kydex sheath, but that was back in the late 70's, not much of that around then. Love the esee 6, great knife! Keep up the great work you're doing!
Survival knife, I'm going with my Bark River, Bravo 1.25 in 3V steel, with a DLT kydex sheath. I pretty much use it everyday and the set up works great. Wish more people would review Bark River, they are a great company and have lots of great designs too. Great video and great advice, I always recommend my friends to watch your channel if they are interested in getting non biased knife reviews.
Great Knive but how u Scharping in the Field 😏 Convex and 3v never ever trust me👈
V grind is better.. And littl Dimond stone from Dmt
Excellent info. What about some budget blade choices say for knives in the sub $50-$60 range?
TheGoatMumbler The two in the video SCHRADE schf9 or schf37.
Excellent video! Thanks for defining a survival knife and what characteristics to look for. This is a big help.
OryGun Patriot Glad I could help you out!
Can you do a video about your preferences for a smaller companion knife? Like an MSK 2.5, bk14, izula, and anything else.
This video definitely helped out with what to look for in my survival knife! Thank you again for a great video and review of the knives. I ultimately ended up with the Schrade SCHF52, it included a nylon sheath, and plastic insert and also a ferro rod and striker as well as a sharpening stone with a pocket on the sheath to store the items! thumbs up!
Say Heah Aaron, Usually I don't go smaller than a 6" blade. Like my Modde Rodent 6, my A-1 or my new Arvensis 119, But because my Modified Attitude is stout, I can trust it as a Survival Knife also. Job well done as usual. Thanx You. ,, .
Great vids. Really appreciate all the clear concise video without unintelligible jargon. As a n00b to outdoor cutlery this and your other videos have been very helpful. Subbed.
Precious Roy Thanks and welcome to the GT family.
awesome video! You put all factors of survival knives into perspective, gave specific examples, covered all facets including weight, thickness, and more importantly the type of metal. Amazing details and execution considerations. I think the ESEE 6 is my next purchase
Toby Cumbee Thank you very much and you will not be sorry.
Probably the best and most informative video on survival knives I've ever watched thank you
I have a BK2, I just removed the nylon belt loop and attached a techlock and I'm still trying out different ways to carry it. I'm not so sure wearing anything scout style in the middle of your back is such a great idea. If you end up falling backwards it seems like that would really mess up your back.
jstorer1980 I carry mine on the straps of the pack I'm carrying usually the maxpedition jumbo or my usmc molle 2 only good way I could figure to carry my bk2
jstorer1980 with the tecloc lol removed the nylon from mine 2
Hey here is one "survival" knife seldom reviewed but I reckon it's great, The Italian company, Extrema Ratio's Ontos, just had it EDC basically for one whole month in the jungle/bush LOL.
Well done Aaron. Excellent execution and perfectly presented. 2 thumbs up!
Great job! Very informative, you impart a lot of knowledge in an easy to understand communications style. Your passion comes through and holds interest. I have watched a lot of videos on this subject. This is one of the best.
Some people knock the ESEE 6's plastic sheath, but it will cover more environmental situations than the Kydex. Here in AZ if you leave Kydex in your vehicle on a hot summer day, the Kydex will will dis-form and the sheath will become loose and open up making the fit loose. Kydex can also become more brittle in the Cold. Now the thickness of the Kydex used makes a huge difference in this regard so if you run a Kydex sheath I would use a minimum thickness of 0.093" or else there will more issues.
I like the ESEE 4 best because of size and weight. I have a pouch on mine for survival gear.
I had a 5....I bought a 4 for My Nephew which I absolutely know would be a better survival knife. I have been using knives for 45 years... I find myself doing far more tasks with a 3- 4 inch blade....
Great video, Aaron! Thanks for doing this ... lots of good stuff to consider. (But you made my BK16 a little sad ... it came in a little short to qualify).
Hey Aaron,
Great video brother! I happen to own both the ESEE 6 and the BK2 and I also happen to find both of them to be my preferred go to knives as well. But I did want to mention a couple of things I have _personally_ found to be of interest.
Although they are both great knives, I do happen to personally find the BK2 handle to be more comfortable and conform to the hand better than the ESEE 6's rather *blocky* handle. I really wish ESEE would make the handles more *round* in cross-section to help with comfort.
The blades themselves however, are a different story. I do prefer the thickness of the ESEE 6 blade over the BK2 simply because the BK2's extremely thick blade can make doing food prep or fine carving rather difficult due to the *very obtuse* saber grind. Whereas the ESEE 6's slimmer, full flat ground blade is more conducive to a wider array of tasks.
But at the end of the day, the *only* thing that makes me sometimes go for the BK2 over the ESEE 6 is the handle! The BK2 is just more comfortable _in my opinion_. But I love ESEE's no questions asked warranty policy on their knives! So you can really go into the woods and not worry about your knife! It's really a *big comfort!* Likewise, even thought Kabar doesn't have the warranty policy that ESEE does, I think you would be *VERY* hard pressed to *EVER* break a BK2... Matter of fact, I think I remember reading somewhere that Kabar stated that they have only ever had a *handful* of BK2's _ever_ come back to their factory!
As for the sheaths, the BK2 *does* come with 2 optional sheaths from the factory. The original molded plastic drop sheath being more along the lines of what you were recommending. Now, I know that Ka-bar had problems with this sheath dulling the knives a while back, but I believe that issue has since been resolved. I also happen to have the ballistic nylon sheath for the BK2 and don't believe that this would really be much, if _any_, more of a burden than kydex or molded plastic personally. You are right, the ballistic nylon sheaths can rattle, but it's never bothered me nor do I find a reason that I would need to be *that* quiet LOL! If there is any rattle, it certainly is not obnoxious enough to where it would actually begin to bother me or get on my nerves. Also, one advantage that the ballistic nylon sheaths have over kydex, is that they usually have a nice little pouch on the front for a ferro rod and/or sharpener which is nice! If your kydex sheath has attachment points, I'm sure you can add on a pouch similar to how you can purchase the molle back and pouch for the ESEE 6 sheath, but once again, that goes against what your shooting for in this video. Your looking for the *most* you can get *stock* from the factory without any *modifications* or *add-ons* and it's for this reason I think the ballistic nylon's pouch is a nice touch!
I think if I had the option to get any style sheath straight from the factory than yes, I would definitely go for Kydex first, then probably molded plastic, then ballistic nylon with the kydex insert. I believe any one of these options are pretty resilient and pretty impervious to weather and moisture. The ballistic nylon may get damp, but will quickly dry out, whereas leather will hold moisture _and rot_ as you mentioned in this video.
In conclusion, the point I'm getting at is that handle comfort in my opinion is *as important*, if not *more important* than the knife itself! Because you could have the most well made knife in the world, but if it's uncomfortable to hold and use for extended periods, you're eventually going to stop using it... It's in this area that I think ESEE could be paying a little bit more attention... If only they could make the sides of their handles more rounded and less *flat & blocky*, their knives would be _almost_ perfect! I say _almost_ perfect because I'm still not a fan of blade coatings. They don't allow for ferro rod usage, and they look like crap once the coating starts getting worn off... The textured coatings are also generally *rough* and make it much harder to push cut due to the increased friction and drag created by the rough coating. I would rather a polished blade and deal with keeping it oiled and/or force a patina.
Great job Aaron! You did a wonderful job touching upon all very valid points to be concerned with when looking for a good survival knife! I love these videos! =) Keep at it brother!
PS- TurtleWolf Pack is right about a few things too. American Tanto blades are not hard to resharpen. As he said, they are merely treated as two separate straight blades - easy!
Recurved blades however are a pain in the ass! The Schrade SCHF9 in this video is a recurve pattern, however nothing was mentioned about it's blade shape. The steeper the recurve, the narrower the sharpening stone has to be to get into the recurved belly properly! Most of the time however, you just have to resort to using a sharpening rod of some type. The problem with sharpening rods is that they not only don't allow you to really effectively sharpen the tip of your knife, but also will easily round off and blunt the tip of your knife if your not careful! You really _should_ use a flat stone if you want to keep a well defined, sharp tip on your knife.
Personally, I would much rather carry a Tanto blade into the woods rather than a recurve blade. I would just make sure that the Tanto *did not* have a swedge. But in general, I agree with you in that I just prefer a simple standard blade shape.
***** Right on, thank you for the comment and points you made. I appreciate hearing from your experience.
gideonstactical just edited the post and added to it FYI =)
Knife definitions:
Survival knife: A knife you have on you when the need unexpectedly arrives.
Bushcraft Knife: A “camp knife” suitable for camp chores such as building a shelter, making a feather stick, fixing a meal or light chopping of firewood.
Tactical knife: A knife capable of use as a weapon to defend yourself in case of attack of either animal or human.
Pocket knife: A knife you would normally carry in your pocket in a casual way every day. (This knife sometimes becomes your survival knife.)
The ideal survival knife is hardly the one you're going to have on you when the need arrives. If you're out hiking and happen to get lost and you have your “stuff” with you then you're in luck. You have the perfect situation just like it was planned, but it's usually not that way in the real world.
Good video and excellent points! However, I think most blade/handle designs are all personal preference. For people looking for a blade, personally seeing and touching it is the best way to know if it fits your hand and if its comfortable. Thats how I picked my Schf9. That handle was made for me! Even if the knife is expensive or cheap, do your research! Sheath is the last thing I worry about. Upgrading is an option and it can be personalized to my liking. Practice using your knife too!
I choose the Gerber prodigy. Was that a descent choice or should I go get something else ? And hello from Kentucky land between the lakes and God bless. 🇺🇸 🇬🇧 🇨🇦
Great video Aaron! That location at the start of the video... Amazing...
Couldn’t agree more. Love my 6
Excellent video, thank you. I am going to say the following from the standpoint of someone who has little first hand experience, so bear with me please. I don't mind to be proven wrong:
When it comes to steel, 1095 is pretty much the golden standard of outdoor and survival knives and indeed - it appears to be about the most used knives in said knives also in higher price categories. But I have one point that makes me wonder: the toughness. 1095 is - whatever way you look at it - not a particularly tough steel. Even at hardness of say 58 HRC, it offers around 10 ft-lbs of toughness. In comparison, 80CrV2 is at 30+, 5160 at 45+, 51200 at 30+.
When it comes to simple (and fairly easy to sharpen) stainless steels - even AEB-L is at 40+ and 12C27 at 25 and I am not even mentioning steels that have higher carbide content and thus also better edge retention (like 3V or Cruwear), as I fully follow and agree with your point that the steel should be easy to sharpen in the field (though I would still think that carrying a 1x4" sharpening stone like for example Spyderco double stuff or some small 400 grit diamond plate would go a long way with little weight penalty). 1095 in fact has toughness very comparable to S35VN, CPM-154, Elmax, Vanax or XHP. Again, nothing wrong with 1095, but when it comes to toughness it would not - to me - look like a first choice of a simple steel for a survival knife.
Am I missing something obvious in the above? Just curios, nothing more. Thanks again for the great video.
P.S. All the values I have mentioned are of course from Larrin's excellent article "Testing edge retention of 48 knife steels"
Enjoyed your video very much.... a very well informed tutorial on Survival Knives, the important thing to remember is the Survival Knife has to perform various tasks good not great. The "Unknowns" of a real world survival situation demand as much preparation and informed information as possible when choosing your knife. The point must be made that the BK2 Gen2 one of the knives featured in this video is not a full tang knife.....remove the scales and you will find it has a hollow tang. My personal belief that the "Unknowns" that may present itself in a real world survival situation demand a full tang solid steel knife, failure of your Survival Knife may have life changing consequences. I do own and have used the Gen2 BK2, SCHF9, SCHF36 and Esee5. My personal criteria of a bet your life on Survival Knife is,1/4 thick drop point blade ,full solid steel tang, good ergonomics and construction (1095 steel). Therefore the Esee5 not mentioned in this video meets my personal criteria and is the knife of my choice when or if that day ever comes. Thanks again for the video Gideonstactical!
David Waters Thanks for the comment and insight.
I like your video and agree with most of what you said. I just got some knives shipped today and can hardly wait to u box them. I got a Mora and a Schrade 52. They should take care of most of the tasks I will need. Being on a low/no budget for about $50.00 I am now a HAPPY CAMPER!
This video came up in my feed today and, of course, I had to watch it again. 😉
I believe the TOPS Tahoma Field Knife is one of the best all around “survival knives”. One of my Tahoma’s is in my Jeep kit, and the other is my backup knife in my main wilderness bag.
But my go-to blades when I’m headed out to the wilds, that I always carry, are the TOPS Armageddon and Brakimo.
I just do camping, but I want to buy a very good knife, I have seen many videos of different kind of knife, but this one that you have made have a very good information, Thank for all details you have narrated and described for what to look in a survival knife.
I'm now carrying the Esee Junglas II for my survival knife. I find the few extra oz and still under 20 oz. Make it better at chopping and isn't way too long.
One of your best vids! Yes, I realize it is over 4 years old now, but I just found it. So I agree that the Esee 6 is a great one, but my personal criteria includes a sub-$100 price point...actually well "sub" haha! You can't hit all the criteria at that price-point, but you can come close with the Schrade 52, and it is only 37 bucks. Its got the ballistic nylon sheath, although a good one, and it is a sabre hollow ground blade. Being this is 1/4" thick stock I don't mind a slight hollow grind. There are advantages in cutting tasks with this style blade too. Anyway, great vid!
I listened to what you have to say holding onto a Dadley. This was a favorite of Mt men during the height of the fur trade in the Rockies. Guys bought these in large numbers at least in part because they did a great job skinning fur bearers but they still over wintered in the Rockies and these blades could do about anything they needed a knife to do and they so don't meet your list.
If I were going to pay any attention to your list at all I'd go with a BK-10 rather than a BK-2. They are both tough and robust but once a knife has all the metal it needs adding more just makes it heavy. Heavy means you don't have it with you when you need it.
British Army MOD knife. Great video dude!
Possilbly your best video to date. I use the Fallkniven A1 but I can't argue with any of your opinions.
TheOgieone Thanks for the complement!
Fallkniven A1, S1 and F1 are awsome. Dont know if the convex grind is hard to sharpen in the field? The spines can strike firesteels too and skrape tinder, so thats a pluss. I still would go for the 1095 over the laminated VG-10, because i have chipped my F1 a few times. It does hold an edge better than the 1095, so i guess you have to choose whats important for you. Living in Norway i like the plastic sheats the best. Kydex is not the best in cold klimates, but down to minus 10 degrees celsius its fine. Great video and great comment on the Fallknivens!
I know I’m kinda late, but this is a great video, lots of good info. Thanks.
Great video brother! I scrolled through the comments and it's really disheartening how many negative people inhabit this planet! Keep up the good work and to hell with the negativity!👊🏼
but my long time question.. how u can protect the knife against rust in the wilderness? some oily plants, fat or something??
Where did you buy this knife at. And what is your best choice for a bushcraft knife
I find that the upper limit for a 'knife' is around 7 inch blade, bigger than that is moving into a chopping tool. I like ESSE knives but they pricey, I can buy the near equivalent Ontario RAT 7, sheath is OK for me.
That was excellent. I took notes and I'm still looking for that perfect, and actual, 'wilderness survival knife'. The one's recommended are certainly up there for contenders but I'm still researching. Thank you for the views and examples.
I have 3 survival knives. If I go into our city and travel underground subways etc I bring a Gerber LMF II cause in a disaster I want non full tang insulated with serrations to cut various materials.
If I travel towards the country I bring a Ka-Bar Crewman. After a disaster when people are scrounging for food I would carry my Ka-Bar USMC for fighting rather than chopping up wood along with my large tanto serrated TDI for backup. Ok 4.
Very helpful video.For about 2 years I've been looking for a survival knife for my BOB,and the ESSE 6 is what I have been looking to buy.Now I know that is the knife to buythanks to your video.
305ssmonte Glad I could help.
Great video. As always really appreciate your thoughts on the subject.
Only problem with having a knife set only for survival is unless you carry it everytime you leave the house you're more than likely not gonna have it when it's needed
I have to agree with the Esee 6. I was in a survival situation while camping in the Chiricahua Mountains here in Arizona and I was carrying another knife that definitely was not a survival knife. Everything turned out ok, but, I now carry my Esee 6 with me when ever I am in the wilderness. In fact part of the reason I bought an Esee 6 was your review. Great Knife!
Hey dude, how about a survival-at-sea situation? You know, you're 1,000 miles from land, your boat is sinking under your feet, you grab your ditch bag and get in the raft. I'd think you would want a stainless knife in your ditch bag rather than 1095 steel. What do you think?
Thanks for the definition! (BC/Survival) 🙂
Hi ! That's a very good video and you made very good points.
I was about to do a similar video and was thinking of the things that I like and don't like on a survival / woods knife and so far I got to the same conclusions as you.
I totally agree with the handle that must be confortable (Even if the blade on it is very very good I don't dig the handle on my ESEE LS and that's why I don't use it as much as the others)
About the grind : I got a bark river 1.5 and like the convex very much so far (I'm still testing the blade). It might be a good alternative to the saber or FFG. Scandi is the best for carving but not as versatile as the other 3 kinds.
I also agree about the clip point but for other reasons : I often use the tip/belly of the blade for delicate tasks and use the thumb of my weak hand on the spine to controle the blade. A clip point (on my USMC ka bar for exemple) is very unconfortable for this kind of thing.
Thanks for sharing.
ATB. Guillaume
***** Thanks so much for the complement and comment.
I've been doing this kind of stuff since 1969, and I have to say, you have impressed me. I have to agree with Literally Melvin, though, digging with a blade is a no-no. You blade is a valuable resource, conserve it at all costs.
Awesome vids, brother. I have a couple questions, though. 1. Does the Ontario RAT 7 serve as a lower cost alternative to the esee 6 sighing this videos guidelines? 2. Would you recommend carrying something like the SRK along with the more suitable knives? 3. Can you please do a video about a 2 or 3 knife system and what to look for/your recommendations. Thanks.
Michael Clark I do plan an making a few videos to help with those type of questions. The Rat7 is a good knife, but I usually see it for around $85 on amazon.com, and the ESEE6 is $113 at knifeworks.com it is better to save a little more and get the ESEE6. The srk is a good knife, and would be a fine knife to pair with a bigger knife like and RTAK II, BK9, or ESEE Junglas. Hope that helps you.
Hi...am sorry, what Schrade you had there, in the point explanation? did you made a video about it?
ok aron and thanks for your advise. i like too the boker vox rold. i'll not choose the esee 6 because too expensive for me ; i'm french and in France this knife is at 190 eu !!! it will complete my small fixed blade made in corsica (french island in the South of France). i'll show you pics of this knife craft handing... thanks again and let's keep in touch please. thanks again.
A small sharp blade is better for most bushcraft tasks. Its good to add a 7 dollar Mora to your kit for those tasks. And something tiny in your first aid kit.
All your points are valid though at the end it sounded a little bit like an Esee sales pitch. Where is that you shot this video? Beautiful country. I would like to visit it one day. And a nice looking dog. I love dogs. What is its name?
i finally bought a ESEE 6 !! Thanks for your nice videos and advise again.
Badagry 76 Sweet! Glad you like it.
Hi again Aaron! Man, that was a truly awesome & entertaining video...& you didn't even do any field tests bc they have already been done by you. I love my ESEE 6 & you are the one that recommended it to me! "HANDS DOWN" LOL. Thanks.
nice video. I don't entirely agree with all of your points. I have used a Cold Steel Trailmaster & Recon Scout for over 20 years with heavy batoning and never had a problem with the Krayton Handle becoming loose. Even if it did, I don't know what you mean by saying that you cannot just wrap it paracorde. additionally, I use the carbon V versions of the trailmaster, recon Scout & BK-7 and the damage to the baton is overstated. I have modified the spine to 90% and filed down the thumb ramps & guards and that is my only mods. I would be interested in knowing in what ways you felt the silent hero was superior to the Esse 6? Thanks for the yeoman's work in your video's
What about D2 tool steel? Is it tough enough for a 5 or 6 inch survival knife? I make knives and I am wondering whether to use D2 instead of 5160.
I'm okay with my elmax 5150 field knife. Great all around blade. I make sure I have a stone to keep it sharp in the bug out bag. The idea is to get good at keeping it sharp before shtf.
Totally agree with you/ Esee 6 for sure. However I also love my Esee 5/ it's a beast as well.
Great videos you put out. I'm a big fan.
Keep doing them.
Stay safe.
GREAT video!! Anyone getting ready to purchase a survival knife should definitely watch this video. So what is your second choice for those not a fan of finger choils? Would it be the ESEE 5? BK2? Or some other blade?
***** That is tough, yes the BK2 if you don't like finger choils just upgrade the sheath.
Say Heah Aaron, Yup, I like to carry a small/large Knives. It just depends how you carry them. Last weekend I used a older combo that I have for a while now. I took my O. K. C. Ranger Afghan and my Ranger RD-9 I also used my BK-14 as my neck knife. Oh, and I brought my WoW Folding Saw. I sharpened my Rangers on my Work Sharp and all three blades are very sharp. Old reliables is what I call them. I beat on them and I have no worries using them hard. Oh, don't get me wrong, there's a difference using them hard and abusing them. I treat them with care when I'm not using them. I clean and keep them oiled. But also those O. K. C. Boxy Handles need to be filed or sanded down to fit your hand. Yeah, the Rangers were designed by a Army Ranger so he had survival in mind when they were designed. The Ranger Afghan I used as my fine task knife e. I. feathersticking, twist splitting kindling and sling off Bark of sticks. The Ranger RD-9 is more like my Survival Knife that I can baton chop with. L@@King at the edge my Afghan has a continuous curve actually similar to a Mora believe it or not. The RD-9 has a straight edge which will form wood similar to a Carpenter Hatchet. But at a 1/4 and not too wide so there's not alot of wood drag it splits real good. I wanted to buy another set just like it incase they grew legs and walked away. But just the Afghan I seen sold for $300.00 yeah, go figure. Anyhow, that's why I carry both knives. I do that with most of my knives. As usual another good review, Keep up the good work.,,. p
I agree that plastic/kydex sheaths are better, however, I have found that leather and nylon sheaths are much more quiet than kydex or plastic. Just my experience.
i packed a 440c for years not once did fail me tell drug addic stole it it was so good ill be going back to one soon ive looked at lot new knife thay can get close to my old 440c
I carry multiple blades a terrasaur a rat 7 and an off grid tracker x I just recently bought a skrama
I cary edc folding blades all the time. My favorite is the full size Griptilian. Not that I found that I am getting into and doing research on fixed knife fir vehicle bag. I live in Nor Cal, very rural city environment. for that reason not looking for a large huge blade. I love the BK22 & LMF2. I feel they are great but tank like blades. I'm now pretty much looking at Esee RC 4/5. Thanks for the videos love the channel.
Hey Aaron. Great tips. Can I ask: Does the black powder coating detract from a blades firestarting potential???? Specifically asking about 1095/1075 HC steel...
For example 4116 stainless is fine material also. Takes a lot of abuse, does not rust and can be sharpened outside. Like on CS Leatherneck.
After six years are you still using the Esee 6 or have you found a better knife?
I totally agree that unless your like Chris from preparedmind101. That is going to modify every piece of gear he gets to make it perfect for you, the ESEE 6 is as close to perfect out the box as you can expect out of a 120$ knife. I just wish it had a 90 degree spine for striking fire steels and bark scraping. Great video Aaron! Keep them coming
utubecronie Thanks so much!
I thought the Esee 6 had a 90 angle on the top of the blade? Yes or no?
I want to get a good knife I'm torn between the tops Bob and the tops tex Creek XL what do u think. i carry a folder, wingman, tops something we will see and a good little ax in the woods
Portability 5 inch blade is plenty I disagree with your choice of steals 5160 is okay for axe heads and 1095 is okay but I would go with an Elma steel Good sheath made out of leather are are Kydex maybe an extra pouch strapped to the outside of the sheath for a sharpening stone maybe a diamond stone some matches some fish hooks some dental floss and some superglue
Im still happy you recommended the esee 6 a while back to me... it is even better than i expected for me with my big hands... i recently bought the molle back for it for more carry versatility and the button snap is a good secure feeling when carrying her inverted... one of my most loved blades!... greets...
I have a BK2 with Micarta and an Izula 2 right now. I think they go well together. Definitely need to mod the BK2 sheath. I'll be getting custom Kydex. Why the Esee 6 over the Esee 5? My guess is more weight makes it a better chopper comparable to the BK2, yet the full flat grind helps with tasks like skinning.
Christopher W The ESEE5 is very uncomfortable handle compared to the BK2 or ESEE6.
I appreciate your videos a lot. But the Esee 6 I've seen break under heavy use. 1095 is a great steel and the thing I don't like about the esee 6 is that it doesn't bend and isn't made of spring steel. A good knife must bend or it will break, like any higher-quality blade. I appreciate your reviews and your tests and imo the esee series break under heavy use. I've seen demos of it. Imho the cold steel srk is the best knife, and the san main ones are best to use in a survival situation as the exposed tang of the esee 6 or 4, etc, creates hot spots and the reverberations hurt your hands. The exposed tang can easily hurt your hand and the scales will break or snap at The hilt. That's just what I've seen and I know about knives I've taken hiking and camping really roughing in tents and sleeping on the hard ground with blankets. and building fires by splitting wood with my knives. And cutting open cans with the strong tips of my cold steel knives. Whereas all the Sog, buck, bench made, etc knives I've had over the years all couldn't handle the heavy use I put them all through. in my experience the cold steel srk San mai or strong steel made by cold steel knives are immensely better than any other. Brand of knives I've ever owned.
My sch 38 almost covers all of your criteria. even though its classed as a bushcraft knife.
The 38 has a much stronger tip than the 36 and 37.
It came with a really bad nylon sheath but I enjoy making kydex sheaths and doing mods to my knives. I cant do anything about the hollow grind though.
Excellent choice. Very good and thorough review, brother. But I'm still with my BK9 as option only survival knife.
And a Littl Mora
I'd still consider the Ontario Spec Plus line survival knives. Haven't had any problems with mine.
Aaron, I agree with everything you say in this video. I have a question ... I'm looking for a knife basically like the ESEE 6, but with a 5" - 5 1/2" blade. I, like you, prefer the full flat grind, and a drop point blade. I'd also rather have a 3/16" thickness, so that rules out the BK2 and the ESEE 5 (too thick) - and the Ontario Blackbird (too thin). Any suggestions? Thanks!
rlauck I'm looking at the Becker BK10 for that category. It's not a drop point, but the clip(for stabbing in an emergency) is short, and still leaves you with a lot of spine(for a 5 1/2" blade) for batoning, draw knife etc. I don't need a BK2, because I already have the heavy Nowell MOD3 survival knife(7" blade drop point, quarter inch thick, full tang, 1085 low to mid fifties Rockwell, so just about indestructible for prying, hammering, digging, batoning, blunt instrument etc).
+rlauck look up the GSO 5.1 by SURVIVE! knives
I have watched more reviews than most. I have more knives than most. I am 64 and can say I like your vids as well as ANY I HAVE SEEN. I am into canoe and kayaking and keep a deck bag loaded with stuff I take in motor boat as well as paddling. Not so much if in a pack. Well in this I have a BK2. Will have in back pack also if doing that. On belt I have for years carried a BK7 or ESEE 6 untill last year or so I seem to have gone down in size. BK16 .Benchmade 162. Laser Strike,Mora Bushcraft, I find better for belt carry. I also have a multi tool and ESEE 3 on me most always. I seem to like a Tomahawk and smaller knife of late. I carry a chest holster with handgun as not good arounf waist if in kayak.
Anyway I do like and respect your vids. I hope u keep it going.
Gorgeous scene at the start. I agree on most points; woods knives do not need serrations, jimping, choils, or finger grooves. Length, sheath, and steel choice I leave up to the informed user. Woodscraft knife is something completely different. ESSE6 is a good choice. Spend x$ on a knife it should be good to go, no custom sheath or handles needed. Your view of Kraton is totally subjective, have you actually seen a handle failure?
shcmoly Thanks for the comment and opinion. Yes I have owned 2 cold steal knives, the SRK and Gurkha Kukri, both of which hand their kraton handles loosen up on me, and broke my LMF 2 and damaged a Spec Plus Ontario. So, for the purpose of a "survival knife" it has to be as reliable, strong, and easy to fix as possible. From my experience I would never bet my life to a enclosed tang knife. For bushcraft that is a totally different story and I will touch on that in an upcoming, "What to look for in a bushcraft knife," video.