AIREX HVAC Boots - Where have you been my whole life?
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- Опубліковано 13 вер 2024
- This video is sponsored by Airex Manufacturing Inc.
Learn more about AIREX - bit.ly/AirexMFG
We’ve all seen some pretty ugly HVAC lines coming out of houses. I’ve even seen 4” aluminum dryer ducts through the siding! Well, in today’s Build Show I’m going to introduce you to the AIREX Titan outlets. These make a beautiful transition from brick, siding, masonry, etc but they also provide a PVC line set cover so your insulated won’t get destroyed by the sun.
Follow along at - / airexmfg
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Love it when he gets excited about new house building tech
You’d be excited too if your house upgrades were free (sponsored) ;)
I got called out on a buyers inspection once a couple yrs ago for not 'trimming out' the heat pump. (Course no other builder was trimming them out either.) I got on a mission to find a trim kit and have been using the Airex parts ever since. Absolutely love them!
Make sure you show it to us in 20 years or more so we know if it's actually any good, or instead has chips, is prone to cracking after all the UV exposure, or has other appearance problems just like the old alternatives. Promises for later outcomes on brand-new products are easy to make.
A lot of comments here about how Matt is lying to us because he didn’t pay for the product. Here’s my take, he is showing us a product that is better than the other options out there and it aligns with how he has spoken about building penetrations for YEARS. If he was trying to advertise some junky $10 Menards solution then we can be mad, but this Airex product seems to be a legitimate option.
That, and, for me, whatever *he* puts on is house, I want it on mine :)
@@DunnickFayuro Exactly. Once a person reaches a level of success, it's a good heuristic to judge them by what they actually use, eat, and put in/on their own home. If he was a homeless guy pushing inferior products for $, that's a different thing.
In addition to your points it sounds like he found the product in his own accord, then reached out to the company. Don’t know why people see it as an issue.
I can't even understand how he can be accused of "lying". He said the video is sponsored by Airex. The end credits card say as much. Clearly they gave him product. But yes, he's still installing it in his new house. Not someone else house. Not some demo site. His home.
@@SierraGolfNiner The gave him the product AND it still has to pass certification for Passive Standards. This is not some gimmick.
Spray foam is generally not UV resistant nor is the neoprene suction line insulation. Both would benefit being coated with black duct sealant (mastic or pookie or whatever you call it) and that mitigates the UV issue. For the penetration I've seen pvc pipe (generally a 90° pointed downward) braced and filled with foam to very effective and economical way to do what this business is also doing albeit less expensive.
Matt, this looks like a great product. I am thankful for what you do. You're using your gifts and talents to teach others how to build better. Thank you. Have a blessed weekend. Enjoy your worship service on Sunday.
black pvc tape looks pretty clean and is code here... also I'd say the cheap one dollar plastic collars look just as good if not better as well
These types of things should be standard. Those massive, leaky holes filled with canned foam shouldn't be allowed. It's 2021, not 1921.
They took them out of the market and now they do come standard with uv protection. I’m a hvac guy
Would love to see a quick video on how to retrofit Airex boots/insulated lines to *existing* heat pump installations. They're all degraded just like your old house but the heat pump still has years left in it, so the logical thing is to clean up the piping. Thanks Matt.
Hmmm. Good question. Not sure how to do that with out cutting the copper lines. Seems like a good idea for Airex to come up with a retro solution
Had a similar thought. Wondering about retrofitting an existing system piping that goes into the slab.
I just asked a similar question about retrofitting to an existing set of compressor lines. I have been known to take a pair of shears or tin snips and retrofit... hmmm. Got me thinking.
It's the little things that make such a difference! Great product.
Totally agree. The small details make the house
Heat pump water heater outside? Wow. Can’t wait for the next video. Cold front Coming right up.
Matt! Loving the siding!
Nice install Matt! Sweet product.
Matt Hi this is a super idea, thanks 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Thank you so much for helping us find good products to use to protect the investments in our homes.
Always learning new things, love your channel Matt.
Idk how long ago this video was made, but hopefully those water pipes penetrating outside the house for your heat pump gets more thought on how to avoid then freezing in the future.
Pretty sure those are refrigerant lines
@@johnhaller5851 he said the pex-a lines are going to a water heater he's getting so they would both be warm at least. Living In a northern climate, it blows my mind that anyone would put a water heater outside exposed (or in an attic for that matter)
Love this product!
Matt thanks for the
Info you gather up,share nd rate.
Content on this channel makes for great discussion around the break table at the site.
Onnnnn the build
SHOW !!!
Appreciate the support! Thanks for watching!
I've always hated these "rat tails" sticking out of the house. I might just retrofit my existing line before summer starts up here in MN.
Brilliant thanks, how many times I have seen installations that need this
I replaced that foam insulation last year. I covered the new insulation with foil tape. The old foam insulation was really beat up after 16 years.
i personally use uv resistant armoflex on my installs i like the look so much better
Totally Awesome! I'm going to build in the next few years and plan for ductless. I'll be on the lookout for this product... Thanks Matt! As always great info that's sorely needed!
This guy makes me want to become a builder
Be nice to have a J channel set up or snap ring for vinyl siding applications, but also even some type of drip edge for when you’re doing hardy board and other types of hard siding
I came across these about a year ago and have specifying since for single or double units. For many condensers i spec out wall-vaults (from roof penetration housings).
It’s good to see a video on it.
Those are really nice!!
Great. Just will be waiting another hundred years for the retrofit model with bottom and top halves to be R&D'd
So the cover is just a pad off my schwinn?
I’m guessing the foam gasket that seals against the house is going to be the weak link, and breakdown faster than anything else in the system
Photodegrades from the sunlight over time. It's also a place where mice and squirrels might find and entrance point or just a tasty foam rubber snack to chew on.
The TSS & TGS I believe came out in about 2006. These things are not cheap but they are very nice , makes for a clean job👍.
I have been building my own hvac boot/using plywood and 1x2 pieces cut like a small picture frame then wrap the wood in aluminum trim roll to match trim color. Then i use pvc fittings attached to plywood that the pipe and foam insulation goes thru creating a nice tight waterproof and air proof seal. Additionally i use two pieces of waterproof rubber flex conduit for the high voltage wiring in one and my thermostat wire in the other. It does not get more professional looking than this.
Sounds well thought out. Mind adding a picture to your Instagram?
That’s worth doing in a video, showing a step by step with any non-standard parts being stated.
thnx btw for this product. It took me two days to find something I like.
They make a line set with insulation wrapped in plastic that was much tougher than the foam only wrapped line set.
Excellent stuff
When I had to replace the water valve going into my home, I took a 4" PVC pipe and put it over my water pipe ~3' tall. Held it centered over my steel pipe, took a can of spray foam with a 3' long pex hose attached to the end of it and filled the pipe with the foam. It has held up nice for like 8 years now. Don't have to worry about a busted pipe in the winter.
Matt Risinger I know you haven’t talked about this yet but will you please find some detail and things about the different types of home elevators that will best suit a home for a two story house
I’d love to know more about mounting blocks and brick. Let’s say you have a fully brush exterior. I saw the video about the outlet box in brick, and that made sense. But I want to know how penetrations like this or the outdoor faucet can work.
I’m in the process of building and would love to get my hands on this product. Went to their website......didn’t see a way to purchase them online or prices. Matt you should get the companies that you get sponsored from provide a coupon code to your viewers and a way to purchase the product. By the way, I’m almost done with my Zip 1.5 flashing.
I don't see how you air seal this? Do you spray foam after? I thought you always preached one line, one hole?
he's probably air sealing the inside through the house wrap with some liquid flash and maybe one of those stretchable flashing tape squares
The airex block has the rubber sleeve/boot that seals around the insulation of the lineset. The uv wrap with the velco gets secured to that. The hole in the sheathing can be filled with fireblock foam as it is in the wall cavity. Unless you were referring to another type of sealing.
He is using airtight rubber boots for everything on the house and I think sealing on the inside with acoustic sealant.
If my memory serves me...
Installed these on my shop and I'll be installing them on my house. Great product!
0:17 ahh the ubiquitous structural spray foam. The monkey wrench of the indifferent.
What type of flashing are you using above the airex titan boot?
Do you know what it would cost to do this on an existing unit? You would have to recover the coolant gas then install, then replace the refrigerant.
Payback, 55 years.
True
Yup. Probably better to scrape off the old then get the Eflexguard split the foam down the middle fit over the pipes and put that velcro outer skin on. It probably compresses enough to go inside any hole coming out of your building. That funky cover plate is silly in my opinion.
www.buildclub.com/product/gm_1429461415690
I see you also used the product on your electrical pull box. Looks great.
Great content! Just today I was wishing you would do a detailed video of these.
Can I just ask why you went for the zubadan and not the ecodan R32??
Looks durable but maybe a little clumsy still but linesets arent standard in shape so it hard to make a super clean looking one size fits all so this is a good effort. That white PVC with velcro piece reminded me of rope prtoection pads used in caving where redirects cant be uaed. I wonder if there is a white shrink tape in a 2" wide roll that could be used for a clea er and custom fit application.
Watching more of your videos for my Barndominuin build ideas. How about showing your complete HVAC system in you house's. We really need the information for the up coming summer.
There's a bunch of videos about his new-build HVAC. Keep up.
Brilliant!
Yet another product to add to my list LOL. I noticed the siding is up on the house, when are you posting those videos?
Matt, what are your opinions on exterior material choices. Brick vs cement board vs stucco, etc. Id love to see a vid on details about water tightness, insulation/thermal mass, longevity, etc for each.
I love Brick. Also a Fiber Cement siding fan. That’s basically what my house is. Good video idea. I’ll add to my list
I 2nd that👆
@@buildshow Awesome man, looking forward to it. Your Build Show content is top notch!
That is a product long over due for the market.
Totally!
i've got no objections to sponsored videos, but if you watched risinger's earlier video (in which he ran pvc pipes through the wall assembly), all this adds is a prepackaged kit to seal the outside of the pipe.
Just buy UV resistance lineset instead of the PVC cover. Them penetration covers are a pain in the rear to use. Look nice but would rather use 2" PVC sleeve and white caulking. Just my $.02
Hes not paying for this stuff, its fine
FWIW: I looked at that product, but opted to go with two smaller holes that fit the diameter of each insulated line set for tight air sealing. The issue is that having both line sets through the same hole presents an air sealing nightmare in my opinion. The other option was to hang the condensers on the wall to get them off of the ground (helps avoid debris getting collected in the coil radiator.
I would assume he did two separate holes on the inside. I can't be sure, be he seems to be a fan of that
@@somedude-lc5dy I am pretty sure it was one hole. I saw a few frames in the video that appears to be a single hole.
Matt - Cool product. How are the split unit lines run inside your house to the wall units? I thought best practice was to run the line outside the house to the inside unit that is on the inside of an exterior wall and not run line sets inside the walls.
Great vid. How do you seal out all the bugs that are gonna love that nice lineset cover??????????
How about a retrofit kit for existing lines? I ain't going to get the HVAC man out to disconnect and reconnect the lines just to install something new on the compressor side. I just added some new insulation last year and filled the hole in the brick with some stainless steel wool. Next time I have to change out the system? Yes, seemingly a nice system. Add a little class to the neighborhood....
damn thats clean.
How do you approach an already existing Hvac system with a siding remodeling project? ..
Problem is it falls apart in the sunlight. Critters can eat through it. Nothing seals like silicone. Critters can't seem to remove it either. 32 years installing heatpumps here
Matt, another great video! I've learned so much from your content and will be incorporating a lot of ideas, products and vendors from you in our upcoming build. BUT...what is up with the windows behind you at your new house? Why are the window sills at two different heights when they are right next to one another?
Lol, now that I see it, I can't unsee it.
Kitchen surfaces? Neighboring rooms with a wall in between?
At 3:15 in case anybody wants to see it too.
@@danielbuckner2167 - maybe the kitchen, but they seem too close together to have a wall in between.
@@stevebabiak6997 I agree, i typed that without watching the video again but of course its hard to know without seeing more.
Do you have any recommendations for water softeners? I've seen you talk about the benefits, but there are alot of different types. Would be great to hear your thoughts. Thanks.
At my last home, the HVAC installer literally torched a hole through the siding and hammered a hole through the OSB.
No caulk, plenty of rot.
Found the same thing with my cable installation... Jerkwads.
@@danbert8 - cable installers tend to be hacks, so no surprise there.
I would have expected the HVAC installer to have a hole saw for his drill to cut through simple wall materials such as vinyl, aluminum and wood.
@@stevebabiak6997 and use a core drill if you have brick or stone. As someone else said in the comments is 2021 not 1921.
@@jonathanbuzzard1376 - a rotary hammer might help with making holes in masonry ...
So are you spray foaming the penetration on the interior side of the wall?
I also had a Trane put in at my house about 15 years ago.
I'm putting this into my ICF house.
Sweet!
Matt keeps mentioning these Versatex mounting blocks in videos, I’d like to see them make one. As far as I can tell it’s just a 3/4” block of PVC, but I’m sure there’s some more detailing involved. On a related note, I wonder if his next house project will be a living building? If that’s the case, what’ll he do without all that PVC? 😁
I would also like to see this and the rain splash over top each one also.
@@frankhartley6777 he made a video about it. Go look for it.
@@ArthurDentZaphodBeeb thanks
FWIW: I just use the 3/4" PVC trim sold at Lowes\HD (AZEK\Royal). Like Matt I have 2" exterior insulation + 5/4" rain screen + hardie Siding. To get it flush with the siding and provide a solid base for fasteners, I used a 2x6, 2x8 square block behind the PVC and 1" ridge foam ( PVC Trim -> 2x6 -> Foam -> Exterior Sheathing). The issue with the PVC is that does have much straight to hold screws and neither does ZIP OSB.On the back side if I wasn't able to use a stud, I used a 1x4" backer on the other side of ZIP. I also primed the 2x6 backer block to avoid any chance of Rot. I didn't install metal drip cap since I have good overhangs and the PVC trim sits flush with the siding.
You can also buy a trim screw kit (AZEK) that includes pvc plugs so you can hide the screw holes to fasten the PVC to the wall.
I used this set up for Hose bibs, gas , & exterior electrical outlets for a nice clean look. The electrical boxes sit flush with the PVC trim for a nice clean install.
All my exterior trim is PVC. I didn't want to have to deal with repainting the exterior trim. The only issue if you go with PVC plan to use it as white trim. Painting PVC trim will eventual fail.
@@guytech7310 lots of good ideas, thanks!
I’ve seen a few HVAC and builders that have used galvanized metal roofing jacks. Then wrap the lines with white roofing membrane and roofing being or white acrylic. Painter will paint it to match the house.
Some roofing membrane materials used with shingles are not UV resistant and as such are probably not a long term solution for wrapping the exterior section of the line set. Shingles cover those membranes on a roof to give UV protection.
The membranes used for flat roofs, OTOH, would be suitable since they are meant to be exposed. Just pointing this out in case somebody tries to emulate that but with the wrong material.
@@stevebabiak6997: Yes, this membrane comes in rolls of 100-300 feet on length. They’re used on flat roofs and roofs with a slight pitch (no shingles used). With 2 coats of acrylic coating (typically white or sand colored) it’s is well suited to protect those HVAC lines from UVA/UVB rays. Small price to invest for protecting equipment
I’ve been seeing those at Johnstone supply on Todd Lane lately. If I see you there I’ll say hi
I've been following the build on your house and it's got some remarkable systems and details BUT... Few homeowners would be comfortable with so many complex systems. I don't know about others but I'm looking forward to your getting back to more conventional/common projects and systems.
Appreciate that Jon. Thanks for your support. Lots more to come on The Build Show!
Great idea but could you show how you made the mounting block?
I have a builder I handle punch list for, they just ran into field mice problems on one of their developments 220 Homes. I spent a few days crawling on the ground finding lots of gaps and holes, then walked some that were blacked in with their QC. Almost every penetration, plumb up from slab was in my opinion was a problem and possible entry for field mice. I’m definitely going to pass along this product to them.
I love it all but the metal flashing on top of the blocks
I like the content.
When are you going to have a video with you home network installation? Your home network is one of the few systems most people will ever use to earn income as well as consume media. I'm tired of home networks being tacked on after the fact. The best home I've ever lived in had ethernet drops in every room coming back to a single point. It made setting up smart TVs, pcs, gaming consoles, wireless access points super straightforward. Planning a secure climate controlled server room with just a small 12 u server rack to hold all your network gear and Nas, planning your cable drops before the sheet rock is in.
Code requires the unit be at least 18" from the house, to allow for servicing the condensing unit.
Matt - we just bought 35 yo house. Return air ducts (in attic) are in decent shape except vapor barrier is split exposing insulation to ambient moisture. The 6" ducts are easily replaced but the larger one (12" I think) that goes 25' across vaulted ceiling to other side of the house could be challenging to replace. Are there sleeves I could use to renew the vapor barrier on the large duct?
HOW DID YOU SEAL AROUND THE BLOCK THAT ATTACHED TO THE ENVELOPE ? (UNDER THE SIDING)
Go watch previous videos. He explains in detail how he installed and flashed them
I used Huber Liquid Flash on the Zip. Also I had them drill one hole per copper line.
Hey Matt do you have contact info for your A/C contractor? I can’t seem to find them.
How do you like the Mitsubishi mini splits so far?
Hey Matt What size of the TGS Series did you use for your Mitsubishi system?
Roof top vent stacks have something similar
The more I look at setups like this, the more I want to go geothermal and skip the outdoor heat exchanger altogether.
Until you find out how many people are trained in geothermal its been out for years but rarely anyone has seen one.
@@maddog12186 true
I know it's Texas but the water heater is going on the outside of the house? I hear it got a bit chilly down there recently though..... or are you building something around it?
the white cover with the 90 kind of looks like a Beluga whale kissing your house
Haha?
It's a nice system. But if you just wrap the exposed lines with UV tape, all the way to the flairs then you don't have to worry about the insulation breaking down. If those installers brought the copper all the way to the ODU location a simple flair is all you need to do to connect the system. A lot easier than sweating pipe and dragging a gas bottle around. My guess is the installers don't do a lot of ductless installs. The ODU's are not on blocks only pads that are made with styrofoam. How do they tie those systems down for anykind of movement?
Mitsubishi the best brand!!!! So i can say you are a smart guy.
Why two line sets? No branch box?
We are doing a full gut remodel for myself and we did the same condenser with 3 square ceiling casettes and a standard vertical handler in basement.
Thats VRF, more advanced system than this.
Pretty sure any of mitsubishi's condensers that have two fans on top of each other can be used either with branch box or multiple line sets coming out to it. Bts these units are insane, watching the tech set it up, looked like a rocket booster in there.
My interior units aren't commerical m series, we are using SLZ residential models. They effectively are VRF but not marketed that way for some reason. I think they can be ramped from 10-100%.
You are much better off using a 2" Long Radius PVC Electrical sweep coming out of the wall, foam fill inside the PVC, paint the PVC, and use UV resistant insulation, or cover the insulation with UV tape. Costs a 1/5th the price and I think it works much better. I have been doing that for over 20 years and never had a problem with looks, or the insulation rotting off from the sun.
Is this getting air sealed on the inside with a spray foam or something? Failing to see how it's airtight, would love some more detail here.
Watch previous videos and you might educate yourself...
@@ArthurDentZaphodBeeb or you can just answer the question
@@aldoogie824 He made several videos. Can't explain in a tiny reply box. Don't be so lazy.
@mattrisinger Long time viewer Matt, I've seen all your videos. You recently did one on electrical where you used a liquid flash product in the wall assembly seal each Romex electrical wire; loved that detail. I know one of your best building practices is to limit the penetrations into the building envelope. I'm curious what your preferred way of sealing this particle penetration on the inside; assuming you won't run through the vapor barrier and just go straight to the conditioned attic. From previous vides you've used some spray foam, curious if this is what you're going to do in this case, or if you've found a different method using liquid flash. Cheers,
Looks like he brazed not "sweat" (solder) that refrigerant line. Also we elevate our heat pumps on stands.
What happened to only one line thru any penetration so it can be properly sealed. I hope this was published out of order so the Aero Barrier could seal it up.
Very cool. Great idea
A QuickFlash/Oatly luxury brand with way better options/designed to eliminate exterior penetrations? I’m in as long as prices are reasonable.
Hey Matt 8 days of hope will be out your way soon they need plumbers and resources. Great ministry
How are you doing in light of the Texas freeze? Wondering if you have any advise for home owners trying to stay warm.
He has videos to prevent it from happening in the first place.
Would be interesting to see a video spesific to see it.
Wasn't that filmed before?
Unfortunately/fortunately the UK rarely gets hot enough to warrant a HVAC system, but I now know why American house 4 times the electricity than any other house in the world.
Trouble is, you have to disconnect the Freon lines to the compressor to install the kit. There needs to be a retro-fit kit that wraps around the lines without interrupting the connection. I’d guess 99% will stick to wrap around or spray-foam insulation.
I feel like there just isn't much market for a retrofit kit. most people wait until there is a problem before they even think about it. at that point, the tech can easily disconnect and retrofit if the owner wants.
Not smart brazing in ductless systems. Should never braze them. Can cause issues with the units,. The filters are to small inside them to deal with it. Hence why you're only supposed to run continuous copper and flare the fittings only. Could void the warranty on a ductless if you braze the unit it since you are not following the installation instructions