That's the trouble with reviews from people who didn't pay for the filament. He's not wrong that the filament is great for scenarios that it's most suitable for, but the fact that it's ridiculous for situations where ABS or ASA (or even PLA/PETG) would just as well. It's pretty incredible material. For the price, however, it still niche. I'll be glad to start seeing comparison between this new filament and other 'engineering' materials like PA6/PA12 (GF and CF reinforced), since they are all around the same price, give or take.
Goodbye to old filaments? Not at $200 per kg it's not. It's certainly an interesting material, but I'd rather stick with some type of fiber-reinforced filament given the price.
Does fiber reinforcement actually make pieces any stronger, though? My understanding is that the carbon fiber is chopped far too short to provide any real strength, which normally comes from many long parallel stands of carbon fiber. Instead, the carbon fiber adds stiffness and dimensional stability.
Having it print at a different orientation would minimize the tip breakage seen. What you had was layer separation, I know you probably did it standing up to allow it to print without supports but canting it to a 45-degree angle or such would eliminate the layers running along fracture angles.
Ppacf is a huge game changer. I watched a guy print an elephant figure and then stand on it. Fuzzy skin makes the finished product look so much better and gives that Bedliner look and feel in things.
@@yakostudios5405 Look up- After 11 Prototypes, I finally did it. from Morley Kert. He stands on the mini Elephant figure in it and also makes a killer part for the One wheel.
I understand why people don’t think this changes anything because of the price but proving you can achieve this level of strength on an fdm printer is HUGE
@@TheSolongsidekick well, I didn’t know it was this strong or easy to print so it’s a big deal to me, even if I don’t buy it from bambu. I make car parts and mostly use petg cf.
@@helli3088 Uhh maybe, go look for it, seems like the thing there would be a billion variants and similar designs out there. But I still wouldn't print it with an FDM printer if you can avoid it, a tough resin like Blu with like 10% flex resin mixed is going to be exponentially stronger. No layers to potentially delaminate and way more watertight as well. You can get good resin printers for under 500 bucks these days.
Avoiding cf filaments here for now. These chopped fibers are very small and not always well encapsulated in the final print. Not convinced there are no health issues. Further tests show little improvement over the base material properties.
There is also no evidence f any real health issues either. How were you testing the material? Holding the same print in both a fibre filled and non filled material you can clearly tell a difference in most cases.
@conorstewart2214 hold a cf part and then zoom in on your hand with a decent macro lense mode on a phone or get a cheap microscope. You will see the CF pieces embedded in your skin.
@@conorstewart2214 you keep commenting about this, just stop. You don’t have any idea what you’re talking about. There are several videos very recently put out demonstrating that the carbon fiber strands very easily get embedded in your skin. Go do some research before you spout nonsense on the Internet.
It seems like a fairly typical nylon with the exception that it legit has better bending modulus than PLA. The big questions are related to that: How toxic is it? How much of a pain is it to dry? How much does it tend to creep?
I make some extremely high-impact parts and might give this material a try. That said, I wonder if you have tried PETG-CF. PETG is stringy and flimsy, but has excellent layer adhesion. CF of course is very stiff and strong. When paired together it makes a very strong combination that is stiff but resiliant, easy to print, and doesn't string. Not as high-temp as PA of course, but better than PLA. Cost $46/kg.
For $100/0.75kg it’s got to justify the price of printing parts you’d normally buy. While a gear is a good strength test to a degree, you’d really need to run it for many long hours before concluding if it’s as strong as a regular composite gear which would probably cost between $4-8 depending on the vehicle. The fact that it doesn’t implode immediately does make it test better than other common filaments but still, $100 and it needs to print enough parts (and be at least as strong as them) to outweigh the cost of just buying replacement parts. Very interesting nonetheless, I’d be curious to see how it works with parts like a-arms, wing mounts, but still those parts are usually pretty cheap (or, you print them in high infill TPU and they’re indestructible). Bit of a brain dump this morning, haven’t had my coffee yet.. I like that the industry is experimenting with different materials, trying to find optimal use cases for them all while keeping the price cheaper or at least on price parity with injection molded composite parts is what we’ll figure out in time.
I like that there are always new innovations with 3D printing, regardless of the hobby! I agree, it's not cheap, but in the long term- if everyone had a 3D printer- we could (in the future) probably print our own replacement parts for things that would normally end up in the landfill. Maybe I watched too much Star Trek Next Generation in my youth, but those replicators were amazing!
I would argue that you would not just print every piece out of this material. The best comparison would be if you have a use case where you actually want a metal part and this material may be used instead. Getting the required part 5-Axis-CNC machined would be much more expensive. The requirements of the project tell you what you need and to stay cost effective it is a good idea to choose a suitable material. If you don't need the stiffness and impact strength or heat resistance then it's just the wrong material. But if you do then you do then it is nice to have. Also no one says that the whole part needs to be printed of this material. Lets say you need that heat resistance because it contacts with a heated part, then you could just create an interfacing piece from this material and the rest from something cheaper.
Game changer! In my opinion, 3D Printing has become more about the materials in recent years. Form fit and function for prototyping has evolved into material performance and capability.
for 166$ a roll is crazy expensive. And it says it's only possible to print with X1C. I don't know why a P1s with hardened nozzle would not be able to print it. Nice review nonetheless, A PLA+ or tough spur gear would have yeet itself to the moon. I really like the 3d printing content. And do you have a link for that boat? looks awesome.
Search MJet on CGTrader. As for the price, yes it’s expensive, but if used sparingly on high stress areas, I can see it pay for itself rather quickly. P1S isn’t enclosed and needs to keep some mega high temps to print properly.
Taken straight from the product page: "Bambu PPA-CF is compatible with P1S, X1C, and X1E printers, requiring only an enclosure and a hardened steel nozzle. This filament is easier to use than you might think, printing smoothly at nozzle temperatures between 280°C and 310°C. Expand your possibilities with Bambu PPA-CF."
@@eighty-eighth_section That's what I thought. P1s is the same printer without the AI detection, camera and the screen. I will give it a try. Pretty sure my other 3d Printer can print it, a Flashforge 5M Pro.
I often 3d Print with Pet-G, I designed few products and sell them, they're doing good in high UV and high Humidity Environments, so far, I sold close to hundred products so far as a hobby, but Now I am going to test ABS printing soon... lets see which one is better
Polycarbonate or PC is the strongest best value for money filament. Downside is it requiring an enclosure. PC CF overcomes this and is easier to print, but its layer adhesion isn’t as good as straight PC. Also not sure I want to use Fibre filaments after watching Nathan Builds Robots video on the topic.
You should not listen to someone that doesn’t understand nano tubes versus ground up cf. next pc has nothing on ppa. Some of these comments are mind blowing .
You could try to print every other layer with PC-CF and the others with normal PC. Maybe that improves layer bonding. I wish there was such a setting in orca slicer, but you can do this via custom color changes after each layer in orca slicer. It's just an idea, i have not tested it myself, yet.
@@bbc92314 If you are going on pure performance PPA CF is great, but that is not what I said. I was pointing out that PC has great price/performance. $209 USD for a role, is no longer a hobby grade filament.
That boat was insane! This was nice to see as I just had a bumper printed by a friend who did it in PLA and just leaning with weight broke it so good to see other filaments with high strength out there, I’m new to this and so is my friend who printed the part 😂
Ive been going thru your videos the past couple of weeks and keep noticing the f1 shirts. I make parts for F1 cars for my day job but come play with rc cars when i get home. Its cool seeing people from NA into f1
Im picking up a Bambu Labs P1 or A1 just to mess around and learn 3d printing, not FPV or Drones but Rc Crawling especially the scale crawlers is the reason im getting into 3d printing. Im stocked to start my journey all cause crawlers pushed me into getting one.
Ohhhh very nice! Definitely looks stronger! I would imagine if we also print in higher infill it would withstand even more right? Love that you can print out spur gears and bumpers too!!
In fdm, perimeters matter more than infill for strength according to tests. Even maxing out perimeters for a solid print can be stronger and take less time printing than 100% infill.
Ive been cranking out fdm prints for my drifters (including actual suspension arms) from normal PLA. very interested in this stuff! Thanks you! Man i really gotta get back on the forums...
Sweet material, I love new engineering materials to test out. The price comes with quality filament, its expensive but usually worth it depending on your application. Heads up on printing gears with carbon fiber material, you may end up with excessive or premature wearing of that gear (more likely whatever its touching) because carbon fiber is abrasive so it will essentially grind away at whatever gear its up against. A normal Pa6 or Pa12 would probably work better for the long run, in my experience.
Huh? Sorry, something grabbed my attention - I can safely say I haven't had any problem with any of my 3D printed bumpers. Well, okay - I have problems finishing them - that is I'm just not good at the filer/sanding/painting process. But otherwise, 3D printed bumpers have held up extremely well for me - better then any bumper I've purchased in fact.
The filament is PPA-CF - a carbon filled nylon. $150 per kg. Requires a hardened steel nozzle, an enclosed printer and a filament drying set-up. Tensile strength gains are highly dependent on print and filament quality and the best gains are 50% - many videos discuss this.
Matt, Thanks for being the Grand Poohbah of Gold Level Ding Dongs, this is great information. With that being said, is the finish/texture much different on this PPA-CF than the different versions of PLA? Being a CF based filament, what precautions do you take when shaping for sanding?
I think I used PETG to make some custom offset body mounts for my trx-4... I was genuinely impressed that my hole openings printed to their true geometry and it could survive a fall onto the body without shattering.
That's impressive. What's more impressive, it looks like we can use it with the cheaper 3D printers too. An AI summary says: "Yes, you can print with PPA-CF using a Bambu Lab A1. Users have successfully reported that the A1 can handle this material effectively, often finding it easier to print than other carbon fiber reinforced filaments like PA12-CF due to reduced warping issues." With the Black Friday sales already started, the A1 is at $300 and the A1 Mini at $200, which makes it very easy to get into printing custom parts!
Just to let you know that you didn't mention or I missed it but you can and is recommended to aneal the part(s) in the oven for 8 to 12 hours at temps between 80 to 100 C or 176 to 212 F which will make the part even stronger!
@@scalebuildersguild Actually I went back and watched it again and you didn't mention the anealing , just that you needed all metal hotend, for the abrasive resistance. Just an FYI. great video tho.
Good video! Just wanted to add watch CNC Kitchen and My Tech Fun as they will give you insights to the strengths of each filament, PLA is one if not the strongest you can get however its impact strength is lower and in your case friction heat is way to low as PLA does not like to rub on other materials, but it will out hold better than any other filament under certain conditions temp and high load for extended times is not one of them. Another thing to think about is larger layer lines and an extra 10-15 degrees past normal printing also will add strength by better adhesion between layers but visual quality drops off. Its great they are really pushing what is possible with FDM printing.
PLA is “strong” but it really doesn’t come close to filaments like these especially when you take into account the other mechanical properties too. When printing things like gears then visual quality matters, any imperfection that you can see will likely be a surface imperfection that will effect friction or wear or how the gears mesh together.
People really underestimating how this impacts the local 3D printing applications. And to consider filaments can continue to improve is mind blowing and exciting.
Very interesting. I work for a 3D printing research company, I'd love to put this through our stress testing platforms. I've just received an X1 Carbon :)
I bet that spur gear will quiet down once used for awhile and with a tad of grease. After being used for awhile you can then set your gear mesh and wipe off any grease. The grease might help it work in without melting from friction. Just an idea 🤷♂️ I wonder how it will hold up to a brushless..
I'm interested to see how long that spur gear lasts. It seems, just from the limited running of the boat, that the material is plenty strong for a bumper or roll cage on a crawler. Good video 🤘y'all have a badass day🤘🍻🤘
I wonder how well the gears would hold up somewhere further down the line in the driveline. I am thinking they would break and jam it, but it could be a cool experiment. As it is, the spur is probably the safest place to start testing!
Long time watcher here and I’m glad to see you’re still creating great videos. I pop in and out of the RC hobby and I suffered from mechanical sympathy lol so while watching you repeatedly hit the rocks to prove toughness only I couldn’t help but think “We get it you vape!” Lol. Keep em coming and I hope all is well. And you should have the misses put more parts on more RC’s. 😇.
i have been printing functional, mechanical and high stress biek components out of CF-nylon and CF-PC forever. brake levers, shifter arms for a gp shift conversion, velocity stacks. some filaments really work well. need to test metal filament at some point though. electroplating looks like a nice touch
Very good test of two filaments at separate places but receiving very similar test conditions simultaneusly. You may want to try it for other of your models ... We'll watch ...
The problem with CF filament is that miniature CF fibers are released from it. It is also released from finished prints. You definitely don't want to inhale them. And I certainly wouldn't want them stuck in my skin. When printing CF filaments, it is recommended to use a particle filter. Catch the filament as little as possible, and if the prints are to be caught with the hands often, it is better to coat them somehow - varnish, paint. And it is absolutely not suitable for printing objects with which children come into contact.
That filament seems to be really good just from watching your channel. I don’t even have a 3D printer but it would have been nice to see an idler gear from an older Axial 3 gear transmission on a Tekin ROC 412. 😂you never now.. thanks Matt!
I would highly recommend downloading the Supersprint v0.4 for the jet boat. I also built out the original and have since switch to the updated version and it is significantly better :)
To really test durability, make a hammer out of it and see how many nails it will drive before breaking. Might need to make a hollow core and fill it with weights to get the right feel. Could do this with several other filaments as well. Might be a fun test. Maybe not the best for this channel though.
Ok now the sound of that spur has me wondering if anyone has any spur gear prints that purposely "tune" the audio of the gear noise? 😮 Could be a "game changer" for my scale AE86 build!
Try Sunlu PLA+, it's super strong and cheap too, reasonably easy to print with as long as you dont try to go too fast with printing (they have a high speed version too, but haven't tried that yet).
It better be some fantastic stuff for how much they want for 750g of filament. I've purchased some expensive filament before, and it was usually for a specific project that paid for itself. I'll have to find a reason to spend a hundred bucks on some. Great video.
Try PLA Super Tough - it is nearly same price as PLA and I bet it is as strong or stronger than this stuff. I printed out ping pong and tennis balls that bounced really well and I could stand on without feeling any deflection and I am 100kg. Plus no chopped fibres. I printed out a 1 metre span airplane flying model 1 layer thick and it has withstood multiple crashes. I can't believe that eveyone is not using PLA ST as their standard filament.
Nice video and content, thanks for such a good video and your thoughts about the new PPA-CF. My thoughts: Spur gear on a crawler is a good test to begin with, however not really a great test of the filament. I suggest that you print a spur. gear for a 1/8 scale electric off-road 4WD buggy which can run a 4S or a 6S LiPo and run the buggy on top speed and see how well does the spur gear really holds up. Cause that would really put a huge amount of stress on the gear and material and if the spur gear still holds up well by the time a 6000mAh battery is down to empty from full, then it would definitely be called a GAME CHANGING material and can be used for replacement of parts for RC cars.
PET-CF is $40 a KG and has 200c glass tradition, humidity resistant and chemical resistant, it's a far better option and can print on almost any machine.
3DXtech also has PPA filament for a while now, however it has been more of a professional grade material until Bambu released theirs in a more mainstream way.
Also Raise3D... Don't know why "if it's new to Bambu, it must be a new game changer for the industry" even if other vendors have been selling it for a while...
Why not print replaceable bumpers along the edges tip and front hull, like real jet boats, in the ppacf. specifically places where impact damage mean a full reprint to replace. Would keep the costs down on that filament in the long run. This is completely game changing. I wonder how durable the material (and level of detail) smaller parts would be. For example. Try finding a 20-24t 2.3mm .5mod pinion for the typhon groms running a 1010 mmx2 like mine lol. But if i could just print a new pinion that would for sure be game changing. not to mention scale down a 3d printable drift cars and make a full Ackerman 1/24 rwd drift car that will accept mini-z bodies. or 3d print your own micro comp crawler chassis to build something unique. Like I get where people say the cost prohibits the "game changer" title. But looking at it from the big picture it truly does open a whole new world of options for us builder types that "wished they made X for Z" but its simply not on the market. I could literally design and print my own prototype for testing in a cheaper filament and then do a final print in the PPACF and have a way more durable part as a finished product with out all the extra material used in prototyping for said part that doesn't exist... yet for some reason i need it?? lol I'm with ya, this is some game changing stuff for sure!
How is the weight? I'd be interested in applying it to aircraft RC if it's lightweight enough, if not for everything for SOME things, like fan mounts etc.
What 3D Printer would you suggest for a first printer? I love customizing RCs of all walks. A Printer would certainly expand my capabilities to customize. I am very savy with modeling software, so that won't be a hindrance. Thank you for any input, I love the channel.
That is so friggin cool! I want to build the boat. Thank you for testing and sharing about this new filament type. Where can I get more information about the boat you built? I want to build too.
But will it still break along layer lines? In the past I've had to be very careful to print with specific orientation to help prevent this, but sometimes there's nothing you can do.
Looks like this product could revolusitionize the whole 3D printing game, I'm wondering how it would stand up to the Panda's getting hold of this stuff, would it survive. Nice informative video of this product top marks. 😊😊😊
Unfortunately not for this filament. It requires a heated bed temp, and nozzle that the A1 doesn’t have. Not to mention an enclosure to keep that heat in. Bambi doesn’t recommend it.
48% stronger and 1000% more expensive. Just use TPU for the bumpers everyone.🤨
Yep. Harder TPU, like 72D or something is pretty indestructible.
That's the trouble with reviews from people who didn't pay for the filament. He's not wrong that the filament is great for scenarios that it's most suitable for, but the fact that it's ridiculous for situations where ABS or ASA (or even PLA/PETG) would just as well. It's pretty incredible material. For the price, however, it still niche. I'll be glad to start seeing comparison between this new filament and other 'engineering' materials like PA6/PA12 (GF and CF reinforced), since they are all around the same price, give or take.
Race drones have been using TPU for years. As long as your printer has a direct drive extruder it's easy to use.
@@Hotwire_RCTrix there's probably no mainstream printer built after 2023 which can't print TPU
@@antonkukoba3378 Thanks but I still wouldn't use a printer with a Bowden tube for printing a softer TPU.
Goodbye to old filaments? Not at $200 per kg it's not. It's certainly an interesting material, but I'd rather stick with some type of fiber-reinforced filament given the price.
Does fiber reinforcement actually make pieces any stronger, though? My understanding is that the carbon fiber is chopped far too short to provide any real strength, which normally comes from many long parallel stands of carbon fiber. Instead, the carbon fiber adds stiffness and dimensional stability.
@@SharpevilYes, it does. Stiffness/modulus is one measurement of strength.
@@Sharpevil Exactly what do you think tensile strength is?
@@Sharpevilyes, but between layers I have doubts
200 the Chinese will copy themself fast
Having it print at a different orientation would minimize the tip breakage seen. What you had was layer separation, I know you probably did it standing up to allow it to print without supports but canting it to a 45-degree angle or such would eliminate the layers running along fracture angles.
YAY! 3D printing AND RC vehicles! My two favorites! RC is what got me into 3D printing 5 years ago.
Awesome! I love this part too!
Ppacf is a huge game changer. I watched a guy print an elephant figure and then stand on it. Fuzzy skin makes the finished product look so much better and gives that Bedliner look and feel in things.
@@yakostudios5405 Look up- After 11 Prototypes, I finally did it. from Morley Kert. He stands on the mini Elephant figure in it and also makes a killer part for the One wheel.
@@yakostudios5405, ua-cam.com/video/RzFl3H5293M/v-deo.htmlsi=LwlcrqOksKaGwgdP
@@yakostudios5405 I guess it's from the latest video of Morley Kert.
I understand why people don’t think this changes anything because of the price but proving you can achieve this level of strength on an fdm printer is HUGE
Agreed!
No, it's not. There's absolutely nothing new about carbon fiber filled nylon. Get a grip.
@@TheSolongsidekick well, I didn’t know it was this strong or easy to print so it’s a big deal to me, even if I don’t buy it from bambu. I make car parts and mostly use petg cf.
Awsome! Is it possible to get the files for printing that boat?
@@helli3088 Uhh maybe, go look for it, seems like the thing there would be a billion variants and similar designs out there. But I still wouldn't print it with an FDM printer if you can avoid it, a tough resin like Blu with like 10% flex resin mixed is going to be exponentially stronger. No layers to potentially delaminate and way more watertight as well. You can get good resin printers for under 500 bucks these days.
Avoiding cf filaments here for now. These chopped fibers are very small and not always well encapsulated in the final print. Not convinced there are no health issues.
Further tests show little improvement over the base material properties.
There is also no evidence f any real health issues either. How were you testing the material? Holding the same print in both a fibre filled and non filled material you can clearly tell a difference in most cases.
@@conorstewart2214won't deny the prints are lighter or have a different look.
@conorstewart2214 hold a cf part and then zoom in on your hand with a decent macro lense mode on a phone or get a cheap microscope. You will see the CF pieces embedded in your skin.
@@conorstewart2214 you keep commenting about this, just stop. You don’t have any idea what you’re talking about. There are several videos very recently put out demonstrating that the carbon fiber strands very easily get embedded in your skin. Go do some research before you spout nonsense on the Internet.
Please stop. Learn the difference between cf nano tubes and ground cf.
Never seen a rock racing boat before! Love it!
I read your comment before watching that part of the video. I had scroll back so I could like your, very appropriate, comment.
It seems like a fairly typical nylon with the exception that it legit has better bending modulus than PLA. The big questions are related to that: How toxic is it? How much of a pain is it to dry? How much does it tend to creep?
carbon fiber in it , is like asbestos, no thanks
I make some extremely high-impact parts and might give this material a try. That said, I wonder if you have tried PETG-CF. PETG is stringy and flimsy, but has excellent layer adhesion. CF of course is very stiff and strong. When paired together it makes a very strong combination that is stiff but resiliant, easy to print, and doesn't string. Not as high-temp as PA of course, but better than PLA. Cost $46/kg.
Cool to see one of your favorite UA-cam channels use one of your models for a material review. Had fun designing those Tacoma wheels.
Right on! Love those wheels, thank you!!
For $100/0.75kg it’s got to justify the price of printing parts you’d normally buy. While a gear is a good strength test to a degree, you’d really need to run it for many long hours before concluding if it’s as strong as a regular composite gear which would probably cost between $4-8 depending on the vehicle. The fact that it doesn’t implode immediately does make it test better than other common filaments but still, $100 and it needs to print enough parts (and be at least as strong as them) to outweigh the cost of just buying replacement parts.
Very interesting nonetheless, I’d be curious to see how it works with parts like a-arms, wing mounts, but still those parts are usually pretty cheap (or, you print them in high infill TPU and they’re indestructible). Bit of a brain dump this morning, haven’t had my coffee yet..
I like that the industry is experimenting with different materials, trying to find optimal use cases for them all while keeping the price cheaper or at least on price parity with injection molded composite parts is what we’ll figure out in time.
I like that there are always new innovations with 3D printing, regardless of the hobby! I agree, it's not cheap, but in the long term- if everyone had a 3D printer- we could (in the future) probably print our own replacement parts for things that would normally end up in the landfill. Maybe I watched too much Star Trek Next Generation in my youth, but those replicators were amazing!
I would argue that you would not just print every piece out of this material. The best comparison would be if you have a use case where you actually want a metal part and this material may be used instead. Getting the required part 5-Axis-CNC machined would be much more expensive.
The requirements of the project tell you what you need and to stay cost effective it is a good idea to choose a suitable material.
If you don't need the stiffness and impact strength or heat resistance then it's just the wrong material. But if you do then you do then it is nice to have.
Also no one says that the whole part needs to be printed of this material. Lets say you need that heat resistance because it contacts with a heated part, then you could just create an interfacing piece from this material and the rest from something cheaper.
Game changer! In my opinion, 3D Printing has become more about the materials in recent years. Form fit and function for prototyping has evolved into material performance and capability.
Agreed! Thanks for watching!
Oh man I need to finish putting my boat together ( All printed out). What fun!
That ping pong ball desperately wants to join all the e clips that have zoomed off into the other dimensions 😂
😂
for 166$ a roll is crazy expensive. And it says it's only possible to print with X1C. I don't know why a P1s with hardened nozzle would not be able to print it.
Nice review nonetheless, A PLA+ or tough spur gear would have yeet itself to the moon. I really like the 3d printing content.
And do you have a link for that boat? looks awesome.
Search MJet on CGTrader. As for the price, yes it’s expensive, but if used sparingly on high stress areas, I can see it pay for itself rather quickly. P1S isn’t enclosed and needs to keep some mega high temps to print properly.
mjet supersprint
and ragnarok rc boat
It's actually only $100 per 750 g spool right now. The P1S is enclosed and supported, as long as you use a hardened nozzle and hardened extruder.
Taken straight from the product page:
"Bambu PPA-CF is compatible with P1S, X1C, and X1E printers, requiring only an enclosure and a hardened steel nozzle. This filament is easier to use than you might think, printing smoothly at nozzle temperatures between 280°C and 310°C. Expand your possibilities with Bambu PPA-CF."
@@eighty-eighth_section That's what I thought. P1s is the same printer without the AI detection, camera and the screen.
I will give it a try. Pretty sure my other 3d Printer can print it, a Flashforge 5M Pro.
The boat: incredible! Thx for the video
Thanks for watching!
I often 3d Print with Pet-G, I designed few products and sell them, they're doing good in high UV and high Humidity Environments, so far, I sold close to hundred products so far as a hobby, but Now I am going to test ABS printing soon... lets see which one is better
Polycarbonate or PC is the strongest best value for money filament. Downside is it requiring an enclosure. PC CF overcomes this and is easier to print, but its layer adhesion isn’t as good as straight PC. Also not sure I want to use Fibre filaments after watching Nathan Builds Robots video on the topic.
You should not listen to someone that doesn’t understand nano tubes versus ground up cf. next pc has nothing on ppa. Some of these comments are mind blowing .
You could try to print every other layer with PC-CF and the others with normal PC. Maybe that improves layer bonding. I wish there was such a setting in orca slicer, but you can do this via custom color changes after each layer in orca slicer.
It's just an idea, i have not tested it myself, yet.
@@bbc92314 If you are going on pure performance PPA CF is great, but that is not what I said. I was pointing out that PC has great price/performance. $209 USD for a role, is no longer a hobby grade filament.
This is a game changer, 😂… you had me at hello sir. Lol
Ha! You complete me! 😂
The price is just ridiculous 🤮
Fair enough, thanks for watching!
Loved that you kept in the interruption 😂
I like the idea of a CF ping pong ball with a textured surface for extra shot curving :) Would make a really cool project.
That boat was insane! This was nice to see as I just had a bumper printed by a friend who did it in PLA and just leaning with weight broke it so good to see other filaments with high strength out there, I’m new to this and so is my friend who printed the part 😂
Ive been going thru your videos the past couple of weeks and keep noticing the f1 shirts. I make parts for F1 cars for my day job but come play with rc cars when i get home. Its cool seeing people from NA into f1
I'm a huge fan of F1 and hope to be able to go to a race one day! That is so cool that you make parts for the cars.
Im picking up a Bambu Labs P1 or A1 just to mess around and learn 3d printing, not FPV or Drones but Rc Crawling especially the scale crawlers is the reason im getting into 3d printing. Im stocked to start my journey all cause crawlers pushed me into getting one.
Great choice! Thanks for watching!
Ohhhh very nice! Definitely looks stronger! I would imagine if we also print in higher infill it would withstand even more right? Love that you can print out spur gears and bumpers too!!
In fdm, perimeters matter more than infill for strength according to tests. Even maxing out perimeters for a solid print can be stronger and take less time printing than 100% infill.
Ive been cranking out fdm prints for my drifters (including actual suspension arms) from normal PLA. very interested in this stuff! Thanks you!
Man i really gotta get back on the forums...
Sweet material, I love new engineering materials to test out. The price comes with quality filament, its expensive but usually worth it depending on your application. Heads up on printing gears with carbon fiber material, you may end up with excessive or premature wearing of that gear (more likely whatever its touching) because carbon fiber is abrasive so it will essentially grind away at whatever gear its up against. A normal Pa6 or Pa12 would probably work better for the long run, in my experience.
Huh? Sorry, something grabbed my attention - I can safely say I haven't had any problem with any of my 3D printed bumpers. Well, okay - I have problems finishing them - that is I'm just not good at the filer/sanding/painting process. But otherwise, 3D printed bumpers have held up extremely well for me - better then any bumper I've purchased in fact.
The filament is PPA-CF - a carbon filled nylon. $150 per kg. Requires a hardened steel nozzle, an enclosed printer and a filament drying set-up. Tensile strength gains are highly dependent on print and filament quality and the best gains are 50% - many videos discuss this.
PLA SuperTough is maybe even stronger and almost same price as PLA
Thanks for testing this stuff!
No problem!
I agree, UA-camr's like to throw around cheap buzzwords to generate views and revenue. Killing hype, intrigue, and due process all while doing so.
Matt, Thanks for being the Grand Poohbah of Gold Level Ding Dongs, this is great information. With that being said, is the finish/texture much different on this PPA-CF than the different versions of PLA? Being a CF based filament, what precautions do you take when shaping for sanding?
You’d want to wear full PPE when sanding, not something I’d do without a full mask and eye protection.
I think I used PETG to make some custom offset body mounts for my trx-4... I was genuinely impressed that my hole openings printed to their true geometry and it could survive a fall onto the body without shattering.
That's impressive. What's more impressive, it looks like we can use it with the cheaper 3D printers too. An AI summary says: "Yes, you can print with PPA-CF using a Bambu Lab A1. Users have successfully reported that the A1 can handle this material effectively, often finding it easier to print than other carbon fiber reinforced filaments like PA12-CF due to reduced warping issues." With the Black Friday sales already started, the A1 is at $300 and the A1 Mini at $200, which makes it very easy to get into printing custom parts!
You need a print bed temp of 100C. And it needs to be in an enclosure. AI may have led you astray here.
I’ve never seen a RC car operated so carefully
pctg has been my goto for gears and sturdy prints so far. this is interesting imo.
Just to let you know that you didn't mention or I missed it but you can and is recommended to aneal the part(s) in the oven for 8 to 12 hours at temps between 80 to 100 C or 176 to 212 F which will make the part even stronger!
Yes I’m pretty sure I mentioned it! Very important!
@@scalebuildersguild Actually I went back and watched it again and you didn't mention the anealing , just that you needed all metal hotend, for the abrasive resistance. Just an FYI. great video tho.
@@cowboy124aa3I did mention drying, didn’t I? Maybe not annealing!
This is material I have ordered for prototyping a machine drive-train system with... i have high expectations as even PLA has been sussussful.
Good video! Just wanted to add watch CNC Kitchen and My Tech Fun as they will give you insights to the strengths of each filament, PLA is one if not the strongest you can get however its impact strength is lower and in your case friction heat is way to low as PLA does not like to rub on other materials, but it will out hold better than any other filament under certain conditions temp and high load for extended times is not one of them. Another thing to think about is larger layer lines and an extra 10-15 degrees past normal printing also will add strength by better adhesion between layers but visual quality drops off. Its great they are really pushing what is possible with FDM printing.
PLA is “strong” but it really doesn’t come close to filaments like these especially when you take into account the other mechanical properties too.
When printing things like gears then visual quality matters, any imperfection that you can see will likely be a surface imperfection that will effect friction or wear or how the gears mesh together.
@@conorstewart2214 that is very correct
People really underestimating how this impacts the local 3D printing applications. And to consider filaments can continue to improve is mind blowing and exciting.
I’m glad that some people are enthusiastic instead of flat-out dismissing it! Thanks for your comment!
Very interesting. I work for a 3D printing research company, I'd love to put this through our stress testing platforms. I've just received an X1 Carbon :)
I bet that spur gear will quiet down once used for awhile and with a tad of grease.
After being used for awhile you can then set your gear mesh and wipe off any grease.
The grease might help it work in without melting from friction.
Just an idea 🤷♂️
I wonder how it will hold up to a brushless..
Great review thats kind of a game changer for home / small business operations.
Hopefully those prices can come down as it gets more popular, I'm sure the 3D2A guys'll be all over it soon.
Don't tease us with the possibility of Rebecca joining the video... cruel. ❤😂
Ha! I can't afford to have her on too much- it was an expensive bribe last time!
I'm interested to see how long that spur gear lasts. It seems, just from the limited running of the boat, that the material is plenty strong for a bumper or roll cage on a crawler. Good video 🤘y'all have a badass day🤘🍻🤘
I wonder how well the gears would hold up somewhere further down the line in the driveline. I am thinking they would break and jam it, but it could be a cool experiment. As it is, the spur is probably the safest place to start testing!
Long time watcher here and I’m glad to see you’re still creating great videos. I pop in and out of the RC hobby and I suffered from mechanical sympathy lol so while watching you repeatedly hit the rocks to prove toughness only I couldn’t help but think “We get it you vape!” Lol. Keep em coming and I hope all is well. And you should have the misses put more parts on more RC’s. 😇.
Thanks for watching! She'll never agree to being part regularly, but she was a good sport, that's for sure!
i have been printing functional, mechanical and high stress biek components out of CF-nylon and CF-PC forever. brake levers, shifter arms for a gp shift conversion, velocity stacks. some filaments really work well. need to test metal filament at some point though. electroplating looks like a nice touch
Thanks for the tip!
Very good test of two filaments at separate places but receiving very similar test conditions simultaneusly. You may want to try it for other of your models ... We'll watch ...
Awesome Information!!!! Thanks!!!!
Glad it was helpful!
The problem with CF filament is that miniature CF fibers are released from it. It is also released from finished prints. You definitely don't want to inhale them. And I certainly wouldn't want them stuck in my skin.
When printing CF filaments, it is recommended to use a particle filter. Catch the filament as little as possible, and if the prints are to be caught with the hands often, it is better to coat them somehow - varnish, paint. And it is absolutely not suitable for printing objects with which children come into contact.
😂
Stop watching NBR . People need to learn the difference between cf nano tubes and ground cf.
source?
Thank you for saying that!
I had no idea...
@@matthewmathis62 he doesn't either. What is his source? These filaments would cost so much of they had to make them in a protected environment.
I really like that RN boat. That looks fun
Neat video I know nothing about 3D printing 😂
I can appreciate that you were not being nice during the testing 😂😂😂 real world test right there 😂😂😂
I don't have a 3d printer someday love the channel. Always watch, stay safe. Hopefully, I can say hi at Pro-Line next week
Make sure to come and say hi! Thanks for watching and looking forward to PLBTF!
PEEK filament, if an hobby printer can afford to print it😢
How does it hold up if you spray it with hairspray?
The ultimate test.
Game changer for sure!!!
Wow , you beat the crap out of
That poor little boat😊.
Good test though .
Thanks 👍
That filament seems to be really good just from watching your channel. I don’t even have a 3D printer but it would have been nice to see an idler gear from an older Axial 3 gear transmission on a Tekin ROC 412. 😂you never now.. thanks Matt!
Thanks for the information on the new product
Any time!
I read for PLA strength you should use 100% walls and no infill.
I would highly recommend downloading the Supersprint v0.4 for the jet boat. I also built out the original and have since switch to the updated version and it is significantly better :)
Thanks for the tip!
To really test durability, make a hammer out of it and see how many nails it will drive before breaking. Might need to make a hollow core and fill it with weights to get the right feel. Could do this with several other filaments as well. Might be a fun test. Maybe not the best for this channel though.
PC polycarbonate is an amazingly strong material for tough applications, printable on a close printer. 👌
Nothing compared to this.
You must have scared the bejesus out of the fish 😆
What would you say about using this in a go kart? Say for panels for the go kart?
ill post the 2 rc cars im working on around christmas time , all 3d printed ;)
Great!
Ordered last Week! Near PEEK ;)
yea been looking at it ,100 bucks a roll
.75 kg just worth a note.
Ok now the sound of that spur has me wondering if anyone has any spur gear prints that purposely "tune" the audio of the gear noise? 😮
Could be a "game changer" for my scale AE86 build!
😂🤣😂🤣
That boat makes me think about the movie Bait Shop..
I actually like it..
Has that don't F with me look . 👍
Best parts of this video is wife calling and ping pong ball goofing around.
How is your channel not at 100K subs this is my comment prediction that you get that plaque by the end of the year!
I really hope so! Thanks for watching!
Try Sunlu PLA+, it's super strong and cheap too, reasonably easy to print with as long as you dont try to go too fast with printing (they have a high speed version too, but haven't tried that yet).
Thanks for the tip!
You need an "On Air" sign!
Kevin Talbot would take good care of the spur gear I recon!! Thanks :)
Good Job!!!
Thanks!
It better be some fantastic stuff for how much they want for 750g of filament. I've purchased some expensive filament before, and it was usually for a specific project that paid for itself. I'll have to find a reason to spend a hundred bucks on some. Great video.
Thanks for watching!
Try PLA Super Tough - it is nearly same price as PLA and I bet it is as strong or stronger than this stuff. I printed out ping pong and tennis balls that bounced really well and I could stand on without feeling any deflection and I am 100kg.
Plus no chopped fibres.
I printed out a 1 metre span airplane flying model 1 layer thick and it has withstood multiple crashes.
I can't believe that eveyone is not using PLA ST as their standard filament.
Nice video and content, thanks for such a good video and your thoughts about the new PPA-CF.
My thoughts:
Spur gear on a crawler is a good test to begin with, however not really a great test of the filament. I suggest that you print a spur. gear for a 1/8 scale electric off-road 4WD buggy which can run a 4S or a 6S LiPo and run the buggy on top speed and see how well does the spur gear really holds up. Cause that would really put a huge amount of stress on the gear and material and if the spur gear still holds up well by the time a 6000mAh battery is down to empty from full, then it would definitely be called a GAME CHANGING material and can be used for replacement of parts for RC cars.
Two great projects! That spur is too noisy to be practical but shows how strong this new material is! Big price difference between it and regular PLA?
PET-CF is $40 a KG and has 200c glass tradition, humidity resistant and chemical resistant, it's a far better option and can print on almost any machine.
Awesome brother and sister; PPS (+ X) and PPA (+ X) !!
What chassis are you running there?
Use some Flitz paste on the gears. It’ll break in the gears and it’ll quiet down the gears.
Even some toothpaste works I just like flitz better.
3DXtech also has PPA filament for a while now, however it has been more of a professional grade material until Bambu released theirs in a more mainstream way.
Also Raise3D... Don't know why "if it's new to Bambu, it must be a new game changer for the industry" even if other vendors have been selling it for a while...
Could it be used for medical aplications like PEEK but easier to print? Does it need a very special setup? (extrusion temperature)
I don't think the carbon fibre content makes it a safe replacement in the medical field
I love my PETG-CF.
Do you need a heating chamber to print?
Yes, an enclosed printer is required.
You should try to make a trailer for the boat and see how well it will hold up.
Why not print replaceable bumpers along the edges tip and front hull, like real jet boats, in the ppacf. specifically places where impact damage mean a full reprint to replace. Would keep the costs down on that filament in the long run. This is completely game changing. I wonder how durable the material (and level of detail) smaller parts would be. For example. Try finding a 20-24t 2.3mm .5mod pinion for the typhon groms running a 1010 mmx2 like mine lol. But if i could just print a new pinion that would for sure be game changing. not to mention scale down a 3d printable drift cars and make a full Ackerman 1/24 rwd drift car that will accept mini-z bodies. or 3d print your own micro comp crawler chassis to build something unique. Like I get where people say the cost prohibits the "game changer" title. But looking at it from the big picture it truly does open a whole new world of options for us builder types that "wished they made X for Z" but its simply not on the market. I could literally design and print my own prototype for testing in a cheaper filament and then do a final print in the PPACF and have a way more durable part as a finished product with out all the extra material used in prototyping for said part that doesn't exist... yet for some reason i need it?? lol I'm with ya, this is some game changing stuff for sure!
How is the weight? I'd be interested in applying it to aircraft RC if it's lightweight enough, if not for everything for SOME things, like fan mounts etc.
What 3D Printer would you suggest for a first printer? I love customizing RCs of all walks. A Printer would certainly expand my capabilities to customize. I am very savy with modeling software, so that won't be a hindrance. Thank you for any input, I love the channel.
I’m a big fan of BambuLabs, they are such great printers. The A1 is a good place to start, but has its own shortcomings over the big dogs.
That is so friggin cool! I want to build the boat. Thank you for testing and sharing about this new filament type. Where can I get more information about the boat you built? I want to build too.
Search "MJet" on CGTrader.
But will it still break along layer lines? In the past I've had to be very careful to print with specific orientation to help prevent this, but sometimes there's nothing you can do.
Of course, orientation makes a world of difference when you can!
Looks like this product could revolusitionize the whole 3D printing game, I'm wondering how it would stand up to the Panda's getting hold of this stuff, would it survive.
Nice informative video of this product top marks. 😊😊😊
In the Bambu Mini A1 a viable printer for this sort of thing? It's really cheap and small, which ticks two important boxes for me.
Unfortunately not for this filament. It requires a heated bed temp, and nozzle that the A1 doesn’t have. Not to mention an enclosure to keep that heat in. Bambi doesn’t recommend it.