TVS diode is a known problem on these. What usually happens is that these specific models only support ubiquiti 24V poe and then they plug it into a 48V standard passive poe port that is already supplying power = dead TVS. Only the higher priced models supported standard 48V poe at the time this model was produced. I don't believe they produce anymore 24V AP's as this was a nightmare for the company.
Thats just stupid. 48V is the standard for PoE, not 24V. Ive never heard of any 24V PoE. I expect they want you to buy their stupid proprietary 24V power supply. Its not happening.
@@simontay4851 Some of our switches have a 24 volt option that we must manually turn on. There are Ubiquiti cameras that are also 24 volt. Yes it's stupid, unrelated I've seen 57 volt PoE devices in other products.
@@simontay4851 Like spikester said, Ubiquiti no longer produces 24V access points or other equipment, everything is now standard 802.3af / 802.3at 48V POE. In years past, the POE chipsets were more expensive than they are now, and Ubiquiti used their proprietary 24V power system to reduce costs for the consumer. As the POE/48V chipset prices came down, they converted over to that. I'm an owner of an IT Managed Service Provider, and we do still run into older Ubiquiti equipment that uses the 24V power.
I had the pleasure of meeting Robert Pera, the owner of Ubiquiti a few years ago in Budapest during one of their conferences. Chatted for about 15 mins, just seemed like an ordinary guy. Little did I know back then he was a billionaire!!!!!!
I repair a lot of ham/amateur radio equipment and TVS diodes are quite a common failure point. I say failure in so much as they sacrifice themselves to a short to prevent damage further downstream when a voltage spike is detected. Really useful protection components. Karl
One tiny component and you found it so quick with the IR camera. Gotta be a great diagnostic tool to have, must have for locating faulty component hot spots. Great fix bro, another one for the win. Thanks for the work. See ya next time.
When I was working (retired), i had loads if these WAPs installed, they're really good and did the job well, had the occasional breakage, but generally they're good.
Congrats on your fix. These UniFi APs are enterprise-grade. I have 4 installed in my house (various models, including an AC LR, same generation as yours), never had a single hiccup. These work best with a controller, which can run on any Linux machine, mine runs on a Raspberry Pi 5. The controller allows not only to configure your WiFi, but also show connected devices, IP addresses, bandwidth usage. Although for just one AP, the app will do just fine for configuration.
It’s good it just takes a while for the unified equipment to boot up. It’s really slow in the boot up process. It should turn blue and your OK. and ubiquity equipment typically run really warm.
Great fault finding!! You are probably aware of this component removal process, I use 2 soldering irons to remove 2 terminal SMD components. Very quick, and less possibility of damage to surrounding parts. Another trick I use on multi legged components, is to bridge all of the legs with a piece of tinned copper wire. Then use the 2 irons to remove the component. Helps if you have another person to man the tweezers. Great channel. I really enjoy your challenges and fault finding techniques.
One trick I love to use for reading the etched characters on IC's and components is get a sharpie, run it over the etched area, then wipe it away with a qtip. The etched area fills in with the sharpie and gives you enough contrast to read it easier.
8:28 one tip to make the multi-meter shown the actual voltage when it's blinking like that is to take it out of "Auto Range" mode and manually set the range. The problem with Auto Range is it takes so long to detect the range the power has shut off before it is able to lock onto it.
Transient suppressors were the Bain of my econet network life but they did the job by dying and protecting The line drivers on the rest of the network. Yet again another great fix
The Ir camera is an invaluable tool to have when trying to fix some of these boards. I really need to get one too. The only thing is that to get a descent quality camera, you have to pay a lot for it. The website you posted is awesome too. I had a diode I was looking for the other day and couldn't find it because of the markings (S4) on it didn't show anything I could find online. Eventually I worked it out, but it took a few hours to figure it out. great repair on the wifi too.
I love your videos, not least because I enjoy your accent, but I still found it really jarring every time you said "ethernet". I have been in IT for ever but I have never heard anyone else pronounce it that way!
It came from a working location that was probably the correct 24 V as it needs. Even a 48 V suppy "shouldn't" trigger a 58 V Tvs diode. However any lightning nearby area used /noise on mains will go over the limit for a short time & trigger the device, noise goes away device keeps working. However each activation will decrease the trigger voltage so fine with 24 V supply but with 34 V margin not so much at 48 V with 10 V margin (~58 V Tvs). Each device will see different local noise so random failures over time.😢
I own four Nano HD ACs. All the blue LEDs are starting to fade out. Any tips on where to get new ones? I have soldering experience and would like to replace them with "quality" LEDs. Thanks for the great video. You've got yourself a new subscriber!
Thanks 👍It might not be the quality of the LEDs that's the issue. It might be that they are over driving them, and changing the resistor that feeds them to one of a slightly higher value would make them last a lot longer (albeit with slightly less brightness).
It's just time mate, I've got quite a few things to look at, but loads of other stuff to do besides fixing stuff. Hence doing a few easier ones at the moment.
*Thanks* Knowledge not only testing, & learning, even *Searching for parts is an art.* [minus off screen work] Bonus, part delivery, close to finding fault. : } Cheers!
Well done. Interesting (probably only to me) that the TVS was rated at 58V when some PoE switches can output up to 60V. At least you didn't say rowter and proceeded to do some carpentry.
@@TonnyCassidy Class 0 is typically 44V to 57V, but I've measured some Cisco switches outputting 60V (which most PoE modules are designed to handle). After commenting I saw the comment from @spikester which mentioned only 24V is supported on these APs.
Also, these older ac lite APs used to light blue just as brightly as they did white... As they age, the phosphor degrades, and thus the blue light dims. The really old Unifi APs had an RGB led (or separate RGB LEDs) and with a little hackage you could change the colours!
@@NiddNetworks fix mine with two led instead of one, hopefully running them at lower current will make them last longer, found that those led runs at 16 or 18mA (forgot which) so with two led, current is shared between the two
"D23" on the white silkscreen refers to 'Diode 23' 😄 I have one of these APs, the Blue light fades over time, it's a design defect in their 5 series but the blue light is supposed to be brighter. (out of the box it was blinding so probably running it too hard) Had the power injector fail on me recently and had to replace, but looking to replace the whole thing with a newer wifi 7 model in the near future
From my experience it should work when you remove that TVS diode. It is there as you said to protect the electronics behind and is usually at the entrance.
Yes, I suspect it should work by just removing it, although if the wrong PSU was used then it could destroy things further on instead of sacrificing the diode 👍
Excellent vid and repair! Thanks for this and for doing the deeper dive around the board. It would've been interesting if the jtag/serial headers had data on them to investigate too. The setup(well adoption) is usually quicker using the controller than the app. @spikester - Yeah we had hassle with a few of these too for the voltage reason and had to use the power injectors in a few places despite having the switches. Keep up the great work Mick - fantastic seeing you saving stuff from ending up in a tip/recycling bin and giving it another life!
I've got an AC Pro that went dead. I haven't thrown it away but it might have been a similar issue. I'm not sure if the AC Pro is more complicated than the AC Lite. I might break it open and look for the TVS diode. Any clues on how to not break the plastic case when opening?
Not so bad when you ssh in with putty and set the inform address to the unifi controller. Sometimes having to do that twice, once after you adopt it on the controller. Often when they are not on the same subnet as the controller..
It ain't that hard with a controller. I never had any issues setting up new APs. Once connected, the controller would see the AP and offer an option to adopt it. I only ever had to SSH to an AP to properly de-configure the old controller when migrating that AP to a new controller (my fault, I didn't un-adopt the AP from the old controller before migration).
@@therealromster You can use DNS or DHCP to 'point' them to the controller if they're on different subnets. Make 'unifi' resolvable in DNS to the controller's address, or use DHCP options to push the controller's IP. Then when you plug in an unconfigured AP it'll automatically appear for adoption without having to mess with SSH etc.
hi out of interest what was the cost inc p=p for the part , i looked it up here in australia aussie website and it is for the part AU$0.61c and Shipping AU$24.00 thus making it $24.61 for 1 diode which is prohibitive for most australians but on aliexpress ( dont know the quality maybe you have opinions would be nide to hear ) 20 for $3.03 $2.99 p+p no wonder aussie busineses are failing, i have the ubiquity ap in my home so nice to see this fix, as an aside please do a vide on testing capacitors if you have not already done one if you have please put the link up thanks
It was this item here I ended up buying www.ebay.co.uk/itm/155755878921 £4.49 inc postage for 5. They were cheaper from other supplies (22p each or so) but the postage was £9.99 so I just ordered them from eBay as it was the cheaper option 👍
found my caps that i think i need for networking switch power supply on ebay australia from china free p=p will give it a try cheers i have inspiration but not the skills lol😀.
You can record footage from this Camera! Everyone upvote this comment so it is seen! Thanks :-) Take the Camera and plug a USB Type-C Cable into it, then take the other end of the Cable and plug it into a laptop, desktop, or tablet that is able to run OBS. OBS is Free & Open-Source Software, it is free to download and costs nothing to use, it relies on donations! Open up OBS on your computing device, then go to the source option and select "USB Webcam/USB Camera" option, then on your Thermal Camera set it to "Projection Mode" (The manual for your camera which is available online explains how to do this). Your camera feed should appear in the OBS software live view Window, next all you have to do is choose where to save your clips, set it to save as your chosen file format (MP4 or MKV are recommended), and then click record, it won't record audio from the camera unless it has a microphone, so you will need to sync up your primary camera audio with the thermal camera footage in your video editor software. My instructions are vague but provide enough basic details that UA-cam tutorials and the manufacturer Manual can fill in the rest of the information. Good Luck Dude!
Cheers for that, but it's not very practical especially if you are using it in the field. I've got an infiray p2 pro that plugs into a phone and you can record no problem. There are other similar cameras that offer recording without additional hardware. I've used OBS studio quite a few times when doing some videos like reverse engineer stuff like the deep sea controller where I recovered the pin code and worked out how the hours etc were stored.
Yes, you are able to record that way apparently but it's a little inconvenient. Ideally you should be able to record to SD after all it's 2024 not 1994 😂😂
Yes, normally I'd use Aliexpress or Ebay if available. Or I've even ordered a small board from Amazon before when I needed a battery charging IC as it was cheaper than buying the IC by itself!
You want to try a crack on a video card? I have an older GTX 1050 Ti that the fan, when pluged in to the PCB, won't spin and do fan things. It was in my server for transcoding, so I did the right thing and soldered in a 3-pin female connector to plug in to a male connector on the motherboard. In the motherboard settings, I would just ramp the fan up by CPU temps. It would be nice to get that fan working again. I mean, it's not very powerful by any means, but it will do like 20 or so. transcodes, which is great for a very budget video card because you can support a whole village with it if you need to.
I've just bought a couple of GPU's to have a go at, the only problem is getting set up with a motherboard / psu etc on my desk to be able to measure / test everything. It's on my todo list which seems to get bigger by the day 😂😂
Since 2003, the PoE standard 802.3af has been upgraded to support higher power delivery. In 2009, the IEEE ratified IEEE 802.3at, which defined a similar technology that could handle more power. The latest PoE standard is IEEE 802.3bt High Power PoE, also known as Hi-PoE. So one might wonder if the unit was designed to only run off A or B mode cables or their own Proprietary switches if so that's Lame. Nice find with the infrared camera.
Early Ubiquiti gear used so-called "passive" poe which was just 24v thrown across a couple of pairs. There was no detection involved - the 24v is always present so you had to be careful not to damage equipment that wasn't designed for it. They did move away from it, first by selling dual standard access points that would accept 24v passive or 'proper' 802.3af, eventually dropping the passive 24v altogether. The 'dual-standard' access points had a sticker on the back that looked a bit like a power button symbol - a one and a zero superimposed on each other. I seem to remember there was a 48v passive too for the higher power gear, again totally dumb so plugging that into something that's not expecting it is likely to release the magic smoke.
Yes the power supply I was using was an old one from an old access point I got from someone. It was buzzing so I switched it out for another PSU I had nearer the end of the video.
Hello, i follow and watch your videos now for a while. I would like to record my repairs from above like you do. I was wondering if you can give me information of the camera you use? and also about your setup, maybe even your microscope... i have mine and i do use it to work and take some pictures for future references, but i don´t have it connected to my PC or anything... Thanks
When I first started I was using an old iPhone 6s just mounted above my desk. The only problem is that you can't see what is being recorded or zoom in on small areas. I'm now using a sony camcorder with a remote, and it's also connected to a TV so I can monitor what is being recorded. The model of the camera and other tools that I use are in the video description 👍
I'm not sure, the only thing I can think is that something else in the circuit was causing a false reading. I can't remember if I forgot to unplug the cable so it may have had power in the circuit still.
It is common knowledge that if you make some static electricity by friction with the wife ..... you might damage your access point. Btw nice fix and also FLIR camera.😁
Wondering why those "sacrificial" protection devices don't come socketed as to make the devices easier to repair. I guess is too much $ already to include a protection device.
Depends. I also think there is a lot in the software because that thing is a whole Linux based system running an application or multiple applications/processes to fullfill the function which it might need all the hardware for
I expect that thermal camera will soon pay for itself in the amount of diagnostic time they can save. Another great fix. I wonder how many of these units are in landfill because of that TVS diode?
@@stevenhoneyman LOL! You can see how much it speeds up just getting something fixed which can be great for the fixer. Down side from us viewers is we lose out on the long diagnosis, and often trial and error, which is often the big fun of watching.
@@MikeB_UK never said there was anything wrong with the thermal cam, just responding to your comment of “it will soon pay for itself”. It already paid for itself because it was free :D
@@BuyitFixit Wifi analyzer on the android store will show the hidden wifi mesh signal. Provided it's not been disabled. Factory reset would enable that again if it was disabled.
@@BuyitFixit yes you did, honestly, i posted this reply before I saw you use the network application on your phone.. this is the correct way to configure these devices.
Try some of the Cisco ones, almost impossible to convert from business to home use, unless you can flash it with naughty firmware as the original is licenced to the router. Some have Bluetooth for tracking g and multiple access frequencies, can run lots of devices at high throughput and are controlled in a cloud system remotely. BT run one such system for free in UK Gov offices. You might wonder if it is BT or GCHQ. What do they get from investing £Millions in a free WiFi system and Internet access for UK Gov. How do they make any money apart from redirections and analytics. The public can even use the network via a VPN.
@@BuyitFixit If it's setup in an existing environment, then it will try to connect to its controller and won't enable wifi until it is on the network and connected to the controller. In this case I'd imagine that Steven's workplace probably have an on-premise controller which you can't connect to. You don't want an access point serving clients when it's not actually connected to anything.
Yes I'm not a fan of stuff like that, but I can see it being useful to remotely manage a site where you have 50 access points installed in a building instance.
Yes I was messing around with recording levels which seemed to be set too high, so I had to put a noise gate on to try and reduce some background noise. It's still something I'm working on.
Yes a few others mentioned. I think someone mentioned putting two in parallel to reduce the current. It would be an easy fix but I've sent the unit back already.
I've got ethernet cables running through my house / barns to different locations, however I find that wandering around the farmyard with a 50M ethernet cable plugged into it seems overly cumbersome 😂😂😂😂
![Faulty ASUS Gaming Router [RT-AC86U] | Can I FIX It?](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/pNDlRE5wuFY/mqdefault.jpg)
TVS diode is a known problem on these. What usually happens is that these specific models only support ubiquiti 24V poe and then they plug it into a 48V standard passive poe port that is already supplying power = dead TVS. Only the higher priced models supported standard 48V poe at the time this model was produced.
I don't believe they produce anymore 24V AP's as this was a nightmare for the company.
Yeah, I remember something about this as well. Might have been the case indeed
Thanks for that, yes the unit does say 24V on the back 👍
Thats just stupid. 48V is the standard for PoE, not 24V. Ive never heard of any 24V PoE. I expect they want you to buy their stupid proprietary 24V power supply. Its not happening.
@@simontay4851 Some of our switches have a 24 volt option that we must manually turn on. There are Ubiquiti cameras that are also 24 volt. Yes it's stupid, unrelated I've seen 57 volt PoE devices in other products.
@@simontay4851 Like spikester said, Ubiquiti no longer produces 24V access points or other equipment, everything is now standard 802.3af / 802.3at 48V POE. In years past, the POE chipsets were more expensive than they are now, and Ubiquiti used their proprietary 24V power system to reduce costs for the consumer. As the POE/48V chipset prices came down, they converted over to that. I'm an owner of an IT Managed Service Provider, and we do still run into older Ubiquiti equipment that uses the 24V power.
I had the pleasure of meeting Robert Pera, the owner of Ubiquiti a few years ago in Budapest during one of their conferences. Chatted for about 15 mins, just seemed like an ordinary guy. Little did I know back then he was a billionaire!!!!!!
Thanks for sharing 👍
I repair a lot of ham/amateur radio equipment and TVS diodes are quite a common failure point. I say failure in so much as they sacrifice themselves to a short to prevent damage further downstream when a voltage spike is detected. Really useful protection components. Karl
Interesting. Cheers for that 👍
One tiny component and you found it so quick with the IR camera. Gotta be a great diagnostic tool to have, must have for locating faulty component hot spots. Great fix bro, another one for the win. Thanks for the work. See ya next time.
Cheers Terry 👍
When I was working (retired), i had loads if these WAPs installed, they're really good and did the job well, had the occasional breakage, but generally they're good.
Thanks for sharing 👍
Congrats on your fix. These UniFi APs are enterprise-grade. I have 4 installed in my house (various models, including an AC LR, same generation as yours), never had a single hiccup. These work best with a controller, which can run on any Linux machine, mine runs on a Raspberry Pi 5. The controller allows not only to configure your WiFi, but also show connected devices, IP addresses, bandwidth usage. Although for just one AP, the app will do just fine for configuration.
Thanks for that and the info 👍
It’s good it just takes a while for the unified equipment to boot up. It’s really slow in the boot up process. It should turn blue and your OK. and ubiquity equipment typically run really warm.
Great fault finding!!
You are probably aware of this component removal process, I use 2 soldering irons to remove 2 terminal SMD components. Very quick, and less possibility of damage to surrounding parts. Another trick I use on multi legged components, is to bridge all of the legs with a piece of tinned copper wire. Then use the 2 irons to remove the component. Helps if you have another person to man the tweezers. Great channel.
I really enjoy your challenges and fault finding techniques.
Thanks 👍I didn't think about using two soldering irons. Thanks for the tip. Hopefully I'll remember it.
I've installed so many of these but it's the first time seeing inside one as I've never had one fail on me yet. Thanks for the video!
No problem 👍and thanks for letting me know 🙂
One trick I love to use for reading the etched characters on IC's and components is get a sharpie, run it over the etched area, then wipe it away with a qtip. The etched area fills in with the sharpie and gives you enough contrast to read it easier.
Cheers for the tip 👍 I'll try to remember that one!
Same, but I use a white paint marker.
@@perkulant4629 I'll have to give that a go. Probably works better due to the contrasting color.
I like to mark those chip with a white marker pin. and then remove the most with a tiny little bit of IPA. Makes it a lot easyer to read :)
Cheers for the tip!
Awesome video, thankyou. Have like a bunch of these running in my house
Thanks 👍
Nice work. Setup took long time because after factory reset it probably uplod newest firmware.
Thanks 👍Interesting I was wondering why it took so long.
Well done! This gives me hope if my ubiquiti access points ever fail that it might just be a simple fix
Thanks 👍
8:28 one tip to make the multi-meter shown the actual voltage when it's blinking like that is to take it out of "Auto Range" mode and manually set the range. The problem with Auto Range is it takes so long to detect the range the power has shut off before it is able to lock onto it.
Interesting I hadn't thought of that. Thanks for the tip 👍
Transient suppressors were the Bain of my econet network life but they did the job by dying and protecting The line drivers on the rest of the network.
Yet again another great fix
Thanks mate 👍
One of the best AP I have installed over 300 for deferent companies only had one failure
Nice, good to know 👍
The Ir camera is an invaluable tool to have when trying to fix some of these boards. I really need to get one too. The only thing is that to get a descent quality camera, you have to pay a lot for it. The website you posted is awesome too. I had a diode I was looking for the other day and couldn't find it because of the markings (S4) on it didn't show anything I could find online. Eventually I worked it out, but it took a few hours to figure it out. great repair on the wifi too.
Cheers Ron
Thanks for the cool surface mount website link
You're very welcome 👍
Very nice! Thank you for sharing.
Thank you 👍
Thanks for the SMD database link 👍
No problem 👍
I love your videos, not least because I enjoy your accent, but I still found it really jarring every time you said "ethernet". I have been in IT for ever but I have never heard anyone else pronounce it that way!
It came from a working location that was probably the correct 24 V as it needs. Even a 48 V suppy "shouldn't" trigger a 58 V Tvs diode. However any lightning nearby area used /noise on mains will go over the limit for a short time & trigger the device, noise goes away device keeps working. However each activation will decrease the trigger voltage so fine with 24 V supply but with 34 V margin not so much at 48 V with 10 V margin (~58 V Tvs). Each device will see different local noise so random failures over time.😢
I thought he said HefferNet!
I really enjoyed that! I install these but never opened one up.
Cheers Paul 👍at least now you know what's inside 🙂
Great work, nice one.
Many thanks!
Great Fix Mick it’s always a pleasure watching you diagnose faults thanks mate 😊
Cheers Gary 👍
Nice repair. Quite an easy one by your standards.
Thanks 👍Yes sometimes it's nice to get an easy one now and then 😂😂
I own four Nano HD ACs. All the blue LEDs are starting to fade out. Any tips on where to get new ones? I have soldering experience and would like to replace them with "quality" LEDs.
Thanks for the great video. You've got yourself a new subscriber!
Thanks 👍It might not be the quality of the LEDs that's the issue. It might be that they are over driving them, and changing the resistor that feeds them to one of a slightly higher value would make them last a lot longer (albeit with slightly less brightness).
Great video, thanks for sharing.
Can you share the flux and cleaning liquid that you are using.
Thanks.
Links to flux etc and other tools I use is in the video description. It's isopropyl alcohol that I normally use for cleaning 👍
Great to see this AP live on!
I have a Bosch 36v charger if you want to do the same? I had to buy a new one but still have the old one.
Hi, thanks for your great videos 😊 I have four Unifi APs that have reached the "EOL" message. Do you know if you can flash them with new firmware?
Sorry I'm not sure on that one. This is the first time I've worked on anything Ubiquiti.
Ummm Mick, lol are you getting swamped with easy ones? That was a quick one. Once again, Thanks for posting
It's just time mate, I've got quite a few things to look at, but loads of other stuff to do besides fixing stuff. Hence doing a few easier ones at the moment.
Nice fix as usual mick, thanks for sharing.
Cheers 👍
I had the tvs diode fail on mine when I accidently put a 48V POE adaptor on it.. I just removed it and it runs fine. it's primed for failure.
😂😂😂Yes, I'm sure it would fail more spectacularly at some point.
*Thanks* Knowledge not only testing, & learning, even *Searching for parts is an art.*
[minus off screen work] Bonus, part delivery, close to finding fault. : } Cheers!
Cheers 👍
Well done. Interesting (probably only to me) that the TVS was rated at 58V when some PoE switches can output up to 60V. At least you didn't say rowter and proceeded to do some carpentry.
Didnt know theres 60v POE standard, ui equipment typicallyd specced to 52v iirc
@@TonnyCassidy Class 0 is typically 44V to 57V, but I've measured some Cisco switches outputting 60V (which most PoE modules are designed to handle). After commenting I saw the comment from @spikester which mentioned only 24V is supported on these APs.
😂😂😂😂
Still learning - I wondered that before attaching new diode - you would check for shorts etc. on either connection ?
Thanks again
It's possible, but I had 5 of them, if it had failed again, then I would have investigated further.
Also, these older ac lite APs used to light blue just as brightly as they did white... As they age, the phosphor degrades, and thus the blue light dims.
The really old Unifi APs had an RGB led (or separate RGB LEDs) and with a little hackage you could change the colours!
Its the led itself that wears out, blue LED dont have phosphor in them
@@TonnyCassidy Duh, of course. I'm poorly, so I'll blame it on that! You're quite right!
@@NiddNetworks fix mine with two led instead of one, hopefully running them at lower current will make them last longer, found that those led runs at 16 or 18mA (forgot which) so with two led, current is shared between the two
The new ones have the old RGB leds again, you can change it to any color from the app (its now even supported)
@@b3ckdoor Which ones? I have u6 and u7 pro, didn't notice that as an option?
Great job mate. You rock. Cheers Mate.
Cheers mate 👍
"D23" on the white silkscreen refers to 'Diode 23' 😄
I have one of these APs, the Blue light fades over time, it's a design defect in their 5 series but the blue light is supposed to be brighter. (out of the box it was blinding so probably running it too hard)
Had the power injector fail on me recently and had to replace, but looking to replace the whole thing with a newer wifi 7 model in the near future
Yes a few people mentioned about the blue LED 👍
From my experience it should work when you remove that TVS diode. It is there as you said to protect the electronics behind and is usually at the entrance.
Yes, I suspect it should work by just removing it, although if the wrong PSU was used then it could destroy things further on instead of sacrificing the diode 👍
@@BuyitFixit Exactly or if there is another lightning strike the board could be damaged without protection.
Excellent vid and repair! Thanks for this and for doing the deeper dive around the board. It would've been interesting if the jtag/serial headers had data on them to investigate too. The setup(well adoption) is usually quicker using the controller than the app.
@spikester - Yeah we had hassle with a few of these too for the voltage reason and had to use the power injectors in a few places despite having the switches.
Keep up the great work Mick - fantastic seeing you saving stuff from ending up in a tip/recycling bin and giving it another life!
Cheers mate 👍
I've got an AC Pro that went dead. I haven't thrown it away but it might have been a similar issue. I'm not sure if the AC Pro is more complicated than the AC Lite. I might break it open and look for the TVS diode. Any clues on how to not break the plastic case when opening?
Sorry as I didn't actually open it. It was already open when it arrived. He did say that he broke a clip but I didn't see any broken ones...
Ubiquity used to be so easy to set up, but nowadays it’s pure horror. But once they are up and running, they are awesome AP’s!
Cheers for the info 👍
Not so bad when you ssh in with putty and set the inform address to the unifi controller. Sometimes having to do that twice, once after you adopt it on the controller. Often when they are not on the same subnet as the controller..
It ain't that hard with a controller. I never had any issues setting up new APs. Once connected, the controller would see the AP and offer an option to adopt it.
I only ever had to SSH to an AP to properly de-configure the old controller when migrating that AP to a new controller (my fault, I didn't un-adopt the AP from the old controller before migration).
@@therealromster You can use DNS or DHCP to 'point' them to the controller if they're on different subnets. Make 'unifi' resolvable in DNS to the controller's address, or use DHCP options to push the controller's IP. Then when you plug in an unconfigured AP it'll automatically appear for adoption without having to mess with SSH etc.
@@andywright3107 I forgot to mention DHCP option 66 and yeah the LAN DNS option.
Well that was impressive, nice one 👍
Cheers Chris 👍
hi out of interest what was the cost inc p=p for the part , i looked it up here in australia aussie website and it is for the part AU$0.61c and Shipping AU$24.00 thus making it $24.61 for 1 diode which is prohibitive for most australians but on aliexpress ( dont know the quality maybe you have opinions would be nide to hear ) 20 for $3.03 $2.99 p+p no wonder aussie busineses are failing, i have the ubiquity ap in my home so nice to see this fix, as an aside please do a vide on testing capacitors if you have not already done one if you have please put the link up thanks
It was this item here I ended up buying www.ebay.co.uk/itm/155755878921 £4.49 inc postage for 5. They were cheaper from other supplies (22p each or so) but the postage was £9.99 so I just ordered them from eBay as it was the cheaper option 👍
thanks for the reply will keep watching
found my caps that i think i need for networking switch power supply on ebay australia from china free p=p will give it a try cheers i have inspiration but not the skills lol😀.
Hi Mick great stuff as usual. Many thanks
Cheers Chris 👍
Isn't Atheros a Qualcomm product ?
Yes, I believe it is.
Hey man, when I need to read the mark codes I use white chalk or liquid paper over the marking..
Thanks for the tip 👍
Great fix, thanks Mick 😀
Cheers Mike 👍
Excellent job, Mick. I always look forward to Saturday. Stay safe and well, covid is on the increase again.
Cheers Brian 👍
there was also another known issue with these ubiquiti ap's whereby the supplied metal mounting faceplate could short the unit causing failure
Interesting. Thanks for sharing 👍
You can record footage from this Camera!
Everyone upvote this comment so it is seen! Thanks :-)
Take the Camera and plug a USB Type-C Cable into it, then take the other end of the Cable and plug it into a laptop, desktop, or tablet that is able to run OBS.
OBS is Free & Open-Source Software, it is free to download and costs nothing to use, it relies on donations!
Open up OBS on your computing device, then go to the source option and select "USB Webcam/USB Camera" option, then on your Thermal Camera set it to "Projection Mode" (The manual for your camera which is available online explains how to do this).
Your camera feed should appear in the OBS software live view Window, next all you have to do is choose where to save your clips, set it to save as your chosen file format (MP4 or MKV are recommended), and then click record, it won't record audio from the camera unless it has a microphone, so you will need to sync up your primary camera audio with the thermal camera footage in your video editor software.
My instructions are vague but provide enough basic details that UA-cam tutorials and the manufacturer Manual can fill in the rest of the information.
Good Luck Dude!
Cheers for that, but it's not very practical especially if you are using it in the field. I've got an infiray p2 pro that plugs into a phone and you can record no problem. There are other similar cameras that offer recording without additional hardware. I've used OBS studio quite a few times when doing some videos like reverse engineer stuff like the deep sea controller where I recovered the pin code and worked out how the hours etc were stored.
Another miracle. Good job as always.
Cheers mate 👍
Love the videos, new subscriber here. Love how you pronounce ethernet, even if its incorrect :D
😂😂😂Thanks yes rightly or wrongly that's how I've always pronounced it for years, and no one has said anything 🤷♂️
Forget about esthetic, additional solder on parts like diodes help them cool down and prolong the life of components.
I'm sure I'd get comments like omg how much solder etc if I didn't 😂😂
If that thermal camera has a usbc port you can probably connect it to a pc and it will show up as a capture device.
Yes, you are able to record that way apparently but it's a little inconvenient. Ideally you should be able to record to SD after all it's 2024 not 1994 😂😂
🤣🤣What is Ubiquiti ???😵💫😳😵💫
Is it a Moon or Mars company 🤣🤣🤔
Nice work and repair 👍👍👍
I have no idea 😂😂Cheers mate 👍
How do you order such small quantities of components? Isn't it very expensive in shipping cost?
Yes, normally I'd use Aliexpress or Ebay if available. Or I've even ordered a small board from Amazon before when I needed a battery charging IC as it was cheaper than buying the IC by itself!
You want to try a crack on a video card? I have an older GTX 1050 Ti that the fan, when pluged in to the PCB, won't spin and do fan things. It was in my server for transcoding, so I did the right thing and soldered in a 3-pin female connector to plug in to a male connector on the motherboard. In the motherboard settings, I would just ramp the fan up by CPU temps. It would be nice to get that fan working again. I mean, it's not very powerful by any means, but it will do like 20 or so. transcodes, which is great for a very budget video card because you can support a whole village with it if you need to.
I've just bought a couple of GPU's to have a go at, the only problem is getting set up with a motherboard / psu etc on my desk to be able to measure / test everything. It's on my todo list which seems to get bigger by the day 😂😂
@@BuyitFixit always your youtube famous lol
Since 2003, the PoE standard 802.3af has been upgraded to support higher power delivery. In 2009, the IEEE ratified IEEE 802.3at, which defined a similar technology that could handle more power. The latest PoE standard is IEEE 802.3bt High Power PoE, also known as Hi-PoE. So one might wonder if the unit was designed to only run off A or B mode cables or their own Proprietary switches if so that's Lame. Nice find with the infrared camera.
Early Ubiquiti gear used so-called "passive" poe which was just 24v thrown across a couple of pairs. There was no detection involved - the 24v is always present so you had to be careful not to damage equipment that wasn't designed for it. They did move away from it, first by selling dual standard access points that would accept 24v passive or 'proper' 802.3af, eventually dropping the passive 24v altogether. The 'dual-standard' access points had a sticker on the back that looked a bit like a power button symbol - a one and a zero superimposed on each other. I seem to remember there was a 48v passive too for the higher power gear, again totally dumb so plugging that into something that's not expecting it is likely to release the magic smoke.
@@andywright3107 great information, Thanks
Interesting that when listening to this video when you switched it on and it was working there was a background whine/buzz.
Yes the power supply I was using was an old one from an old access point I got from someone. It was buzzing so I switched it out for another PSU I had nearer the end of the video.
Classic fault with the AC-Lite's. Lots of forum posts related to this.
Thanks for that👍 I didn't search for any known problems, I just opened it up and got stuck in 😂😂😂
check out the phone doogee S98 Pro if you want to record infrared
Thanks for that. I've got an infiray p2 pro too, it was just nice to have something that you can just turn on and use instead of using a mobile phone.
Heya, 1 small diode and it stops working bice work
Cheers 👍
Hello, i follow and watch your videos now for a while. I would like to record my repairs from above like you do. I was wondering if you can give me information of the camera you use? and also about your setup, maybe even your microscope... i have mine and i do use it to work and take some pictures for future references, but i don´t have it connected to my PC or anything... Thanks
When I first started I was using an old iPhone 6s just mounted above my desk. The only problem is that you can't see what is being recorded or zoom in on small areas. I'm now using a sony camcorder with a remote, and it's also connected to a TV so I can monitor what is being recorded. The model of the camera and other tools that I use are in the video description 👍
@@BuyitFixit Thanks a lot
How come the diode didn't measure dead short in the circuit?
I'm not sure, the only thing I can think is that something else in the circuit was causing a false reading. I can't remember if I forgot to unplug the cable so it may have had power in the circuit still.
It is common knowledge that if you make some static electricity by friction with the wife ..... you might damage your access point.
Btw nice fix and also FLIR camera.😁
Cheers 👍It may be common knowledge but it's something that rarely seems to happen these days 😂😂😂
@@BuyitFixit 🤣🤣
@@BuyitFixit can you fix that for mankind?
Wondering why those "sacrificial" protection devices don't come socketed as to make the devices easier to repair. I guess is too much $ already to include a protection device.
I feel robbed! You didn't say my favorite, Cotton Bud!
😂😂😂😂
There’s a lot of components on that board. Is that a good design or a terrible design?
Depends. I also think there is a lot in the software because that thing is a whole Linux based system running an application or multiple applications/processes to fullfill the function which it might need all the hardware for
I'm not sure, I don't design electronics, I just try and fix stuff 😂😂
I expect that thermal camera will soon pay for itself in the amount of diagnostic time they can save. Another great fix. I wonder how many of these units are in landfill because of that TVS diode?
I suspect it was sent to him or he bought it not working and he fixed it.
Yes it could be quite a common problem. I saw a bunch of similar looking AP's listed on eBay!
All the electronics repair UA-camrs seem to be shilling these thermal cams at the moment, they all got them sent for free
@@stevenhoneyman LOL! You can see how much it speeds up just getting something fixed which can be great for the fixer. Down side from us viewers is we lose out on the long diagnosis, and often trial and error, which is often the big fun of watching.
@@MikeB_UK never said there was anything wrong with the thermal cam, just responding to your comment of “it will soon pay for itself”. It already paid for itself because it was free :D
factory reset won't get you an SSID
First time I've came across one of these devices, but I got there in the end 🙂👍
@@BuyitFixit Wifi analyzer on the android store will show the hidden wifi mesh signal. Provided it's not been disabled. Factory reset would enable that again if it was disabled.
@@BuyitFixit yes you did, honestly, i posted this reply before I saw you use the network application on your phone.. this is the correct way to configure these devices.
Try some of the Cisco ones, almost impossible to convert from business to home use, unless you can flash it with naughty firmware as the original is licenced to the router.
Some have Bluetooth for tracking g and multiple access frequencies, can run lots of devices at high throughput and are controlled in a cloud system remotely.
BT run one such system for free in UK Gov offices. You might wonder if it is BT or GCHQ. What do they get from investing £Millions in a free WiFi system and Internet access for UK Gov. How do they make any money apart from redirections and analytics.
The public can even use the network via a VPN.
don't plug 50vdc into a 24vdc device
so it's not a PoE compliant device?
Blown tvs must meen a mighty high transient occurred on site I reckon
Yes, agree 👍
🎉❤
🙂👍
It won't offer wifi until it has an IP address. Attach to your network and it should have started
If only that option was disabled, i have mine disabled because its annoying for network troubleshooting on phone
I did, and it still didn't show anything...
@@BuyitFixit If it's setup in an existing environment, then it will try to connect to its controller and won't enable wifi until it is on the network and connected to the controller. In this case I'd imagine that Steven's workplace probably have an on-premise controller which you can't connect to.
You don't want an access point serving clients when it's not actually connected to anything.
seems like its not happy about the poe adaptor. made a hell of a screeching.
It was the adapter itself. I swapped it out for another one near the end of the video 👍
Any device that needs an app to set up is just trash. Nice job repairing the thing, the thermal camera is a nice tool to have.
It's an eco system. If you have a unifi gateway it just pops up and in a few minutes it has the same settings as the rest of your setup
Yes I'm not a fan of stuff like that, but I can see it being useful to remotely manage a site where you have 50 access points installed in a building instance.
Ubiquiti have the worst support and warranty !! They just want your $$$ !
I've not dealt with them before, but unfortunately a lot of companies are the same. The solar inverter I looked at and the FLIR camera for instance.
The diodes they use are terrible. But they are so cheap.. Even at 300$ its a cheap access point.
its a crime to be this early to such a nice video :D
😂😂😂😂
Your mic is being weird, it almost sounds like you're using an AI to read a script
Yes I was messing around with recording levels which seemed to be set too high, so I had to put a noise gate on to try and reduce some background noise. It's still something I'm working on.
Have a go at the blue led lol. They fail after about 6 months of use.
Yes a few others mentioned. I think someone mentioned putting two in parallel to reduce the current. It would be an easy fix but I've sent the unit back already.
Unifi gear is utter garbage.
To me, those are all rubbish, just buy more Ethernet Cat 6a cable.
I've got ethernet cables running through my house / barns to different locations, however I find that wandering around the farmyard with a 50M ethernet cable plugged into it seems overly cumbersome 😂😂😂😂