It's because the different measurement systems, and the planing, mostly. But it isn't needed to be perfectly divided to 3 equal parts. We have chisels that are 6, 8, 10, 12mm, and so on. If you have a 20mm thick material, you divide it to 7mm, 6mm, 7mm.
Really well explained, with good video too. Wish I was taught these at school all those years ago. Instead of glueing, could the joint be wedged and or dowelled to lock and tighten it together?
You are on of my favourite youtubers! I get so much inspiration on here. I want to build myself a bed, but, how small materials are suficient, to make it sturdy but not heavier than necesdary? What dimension of screws and bolts are necessary?
That’s a nice tenon saw, recommended brand please? Or the one you like using? I’m looking at purchasing a small tenon finishing planer, recommended too please?
Thanks for the video, one question though: If I only have a regular marking gauge, shall I reference twice on the face side (with adjusting the gauge) or without adjusting and referencing from both sides? Problem I am unsure about is that when marking from the face side twice, the flat side of the gauge will be on the offcut with one of the cuts. Therefore, for my chisle I will have a sort of V-shape to start off. That a problem?
I just re-watched this video yesterday and as it happens, I've been working on a framework made from assorted wood scraps that has six bridle joints. Its purpose is to block spaces along the bottom of my computer desk so my puppy will quit having round toys roll under it. I even managed most of them with just hand tools (Japanese pull saws, chisels, marking knife and my home-made mallet!)
You mention when marking up the Face side and Edge "they both look good" which to me says you're looking for something before deciding? How do you decide which is your face side and face edge?
Great skills Matt - you’re making it look easy, which we all know isn’t the case. Plus given your ‘warts and all’ approach you got it looking perfect first time - damn😄
This video is two week late for me Matt :D I needed to copy some really old windows and now I know I've watched too much stuff because I intuitively made them using this identical technique, except they had to be pegged instead of using glue and all without a Jesus Pen :D I can see the Church and the Salvation Army building from my workshop if that counts. Thanks for the videos. really enjoying them :) ॐ
Good question. I only had a very small amount of material overlapping at the end of it. So I slightly tilted the clamps to make sure they are pressing on the correct part of the joint, not the end grain. It meant there was more pressure one side than the other but it still worked!
ToCan2tuViDa most types of joinery aren’t usually cut on 1/4” stock because there isn’t much thickness there. 1/4” is pretty thin as is, then cutting it in thirds would make it wafer thin and there would be virtually no strength in the tenon because it would be just over a 1/16 of an inch thick. If you were committed to joining 1/4” stock something like a lap joint would be a much better option as it would keep the 2 halves 1/8 of an inch thick which is still very thin, but better. Good luck.
you can divide any width but holding the ruler on a 0 on one corner and rotating it to the divisor on the opposing edge equal to the amount of divisions needed. IE Hold at 0, rotate to 3, mark every cm to divide by three. If your piece is wider than the divisor, multiply it until you reach the width and mark accordingly
Bridal joints have superior strength and look good. Bravo to Matt and anyone else who can execute them and make them look good. Cutting them by hand is time consuming, however. I've had great luck with a lap joint. Use the table saw with a miter gauge to remove material and put a couple dowels in each corner for added strength. The result looks almost as good and is very strong.
Cheers mate! I'm using a Tascam DR-05 which is sitting in my back pocket, and a Audio Technica ATR3350 Lapel mic which is clipped to my chest. Really happy with it so far!
Machine, device, having a unique purpose, that augments or replaces human or animal effort for the accomplishment of physical tasks. This broad category encompasses such simple devices as the inclined plane, lever, wedge, wheel and axle, pulley, and screw (the so-called simple machines) as well as such complex mechanical systems as the modern automobile.
You’re trusting the wood grain to do what you want. If it’s straight you can get away with it sometimes. But with a saw you get consistent, reliable results which is what my Woodworking and teaching is all about! I like to cut down on as many variables as possible! Good question though, cheers.
universal; i usually use squiggle circles... whichever is easier for you really, matts version covers the whole side so its easier to spot when youre cutting it... :)
Matt: Can you tell me the brand of saw you're using on this project? I would assume that it's a rip saw, right? What saw do you use for dovetails? Enjoy your show, thanks! HPB
In school I can always get my joints to line up well but once I'm at home it all goes wonky. It might be because I try less when at home and it's more of a relaxing hobby but no matter what theres always gaps and it annoys me how everything can be so consistently slightly off
As much as I hate to be 'That' guy... when making up the first piece, the final mark you made on the back face, was not referenced off the front or edge..... just sayin :D
Like the workbench? Watch me make it here: ua-cam.com/video/FXKYwM0f5WU/v-deo.html&t
OMG I love the work bench, that is exactly what I was just going to search for!
This is so well explained. You have become my main source knowledge on any technique or tool I wonder about.
Angle your ruler across the timber until you get a whole number divisible by three. In this case 30mm would be perfect. then mark at 10 and 20 mm.
Haha I completely forgot about that method! I feel a bit thick now...
@@MattEstlea Why on Earth would you make components to be 26 mm?! You can only divide that by 13 & 2.
It's because the different measurement systems, and the planing, mostly.
But it isn't needed to be perfectly divided to 3 equal parts. We have chisels that are 6, 8, 10, 12mm, and so on. If you have a 20mm thick material, you divide it to 7mm, 6mm, 7mm.
As a very amateur wood butcher, I found this video to be exactly the level of information/technique I need. I have subscribed.
Cut my first 2 yesterday, wish I watched this first, excellent guide. Will give it another go
Very nice camera work my friend. Nice, concise, instruction given as well, God bless.
Really well explained, with good video too. Wish I was taught these at school all those years ago. Instead of glueing, could the joint be wedged and or dowelled to lock and tighten it together?
Watch couple of years videos recently. All are very good and informative and ver precise working technical.
Next video: "How to hire Matt to make all your furniture".
Only just discovered your channel - subscribed!
The audio sounds nice later in the video. Make more of these asmr
Loved hearing the planing when you abandoned the lapel mike!
Sounded amazing didn’t it? I’ll definitely be doing it more in the future!
Very nice video, very informative and simple to apply
Beautifully explained
Hi mate. Quick RFI - doing a bench using a few T bridle joints. Do I cut the forks first and amend the legs ?
Excellent teaching on this! Thank you!
Wish I watched this first!
I just botched my attempt and now have to dimension all my stock again by hand 🥲
Thanks mate. That was great.
I'm currently on a joinery course so to find a channel like this is a good thing
Super video! quick informative and outstanding quality of work. Great resource for anyone learning new skills and joints.
You are on of my favourite youtubers! I get so much inspiration on here.
I want to build myself a bed, but, how small materials are suficient, to make it sturdy but not heavier than necesdary? What dimension of screws and bolts are necessary?
That’s a nice tenon saw, recommended brand please? Or the one you like using?
I’m looking at purchasing a small tenon finishing planer, recommended too please?
Thanks for the video, one question though: If I only have a regular marking gauge, shall I reference twice on the face side (with adjusting the gauge) or without adjusting and referencing from both sides? Problem I am unsure about is that when marking from the face side twice, the flat side of the gauge will be on the offcut with one of the cuts. Therefore, for my chisle I will have a sort of V-shape to start off. That a problem?
Excellent :) I'm trying to get into woodworking and I've mainly been watching your videos. Very informative. Keep up the good work!
You should have more subscribers. Very talented and great editing skills.
Good lesson
Hey man I’m pretty green on the woodworking but I genuinely love it. Can you tell me all the materials I would need to build that workbench you use?!!
Thank you, great job!
I just re-watched this video yesterday and as it happens, I've been working on a framework made from assorted wood scraps that has six bridle joints. Its purpose is to block spaces along the bottom of my computer desk so my puppy will quit having round toys roll under it. I even managed most of them with just hand tools (Japanese pull saws, chisels, marking knife and my home-made mallet!)
This is quality content
You mention when marking up the Face side and Edge "they both look good" which to me says you're looking for something before deciding? How do you decide which is your face side and face edge?
Great skills Matt - you’re making it look easy, which we all know isn’t the case. Plus given your ‘warts and all’ approach you got it looking perfect first time - damn😄
good looking joint and useful video with good angles -- thanks for this!
Would a mortise float help with clearing the mortise side of the joint?
Nice work 👍
This video is two week late for me Matt :D I needed to copy some really old windows and now I know I've watched too much stuff because I intuitively made them using this identical technique, except they had to be pegged instead of using glue and all without a Jesus Pen :D I can see the Church and the Salvation Army building from my workshop if that counts. Thanks for the videos. really enjoying them :) ॐ
Great video Matt. When is a clamp a cramp? Cheers, Gary
Great video, thanks Matt
I'd love a video on what markings you use on the wood and what they mean.
They’re called Face sides and face edges. Have a look at the first video I did, how to cut a corner halving joint and it will be explained!
Nice one Matt 👍🏻
I can't wait to try something like this. How strong is a joint like this in general?
Well done.
Nice video, but did the clamps helped? The material was overlapping an you just compressed the wood itself.
Good question. I only had a very small amount of material overlapping at the end of it. So I slightly tilted the clamps to make sure they are pressing on the correct part of the joint, not the end grain. It meant there was more pressure one side than the other but it still worked!
Complimenti sei bravissimo, hai mai pensato di spiegare anche in italiano, ciao buon lavoro 🤗
Nice joint! Question my friend. Is it possible to do this joint on a 1/4 thick piece of wood?
ToCan2tuViDa most types of joinery aren’t usually cut on 1/4” stock because there isn’t much thickness there. 1/4” is pretty thin as is, then cutting it in thirds would make it wafer thin and there would be virtually no strength in the tenon because it would be just over a 1/16 of an inch thick. If you were committed to joining 1/4” stock something like a lap joint would be a much better option as it would keep the 2 halves 1/8 of an inch thick which is still very thin, but better. Good luck.
you can divide any width but holding the ruler on a 0 on one corner and rotating it to the divisor on the opposing edge equal to the amount of divisions needed. IE Hold at 0, rotate to 3, mark every cm to divide by three. If your piece is wider than the divisor, multiply it until you reach the width and mark accordingly
Bridal joints have superior strength and look good. Bravo to Matt and anyone else who can execute them and make them look good. Cutting them by hand is time consuming, however. I've had great luck with a lap joint. Use the table saw with a miter gauge to remove material and put a couple dowels in each corner for added strength. The result looks almost as good and is very strong.
How would I be able to get on one of your courses please. ?
That’s a nice knife, what is it?
I thought this was going to be about making a dodgy wedding gift. 🤣
What remote lapel microphone do you use please? another great video of course!
Cheers mate!
I'm using a Tascam DR-05 which is sitting in my back pocket, and a Audio Technica ATR3350 Lapel mic which is clipped to my chest. Really happy with it so far!
Nice
Bandsaw works good too
Good
Machine, device, having a unique purpose, that augments or replaces human or animal effort for the accomplishment of physical tasks. This broad category encompasses such simple devices as the inclined plane, lever, wedge, wheel and axle, pulley, and screw (the so-called simple machines) as well as such complex mechanical systems as the modern automobile.
bravo ottimo lavoro, ciao
What's the advantage sawing down the cheeks as compared to splitting? Seems like more steps and lots of flipping around in the vise.
You’re trusting the wood grain to do what you want. If it’s straight you can get away with it sometimes. But with a saw you get consistent, reliable results which is what my Woodworking and teaching is all about! I like to cut down on as many variables as possible! Good question though, cheers.
Cool, thanks for replying--BTW, love watching the progress on the audio/video production quality--it's noticeable with every video you put out.
Are the marks used to indicate the faces universal or personal?
universal; i usually use squiggle circles... whichever is easier for you really, matts version covers the whole side so its easier to spot when youre cutting it... :)
@@daviddeans7523 Thanks! I appreciate the reply. Hope you have a great day ^_^
Matt: Can you tell me the brand of saw you're using on this project? I would assume that it's a rip saw, right? What saw do you use for dovetails? Enjoy your show, thanks! HPB
Hank Bishop the crosscut saw was a veritas. It’s her to tell but the rip saws may have been Lie-Nielsen.
The videos are very informative, thank you for that!
the only thing I would add is a beautiful background, with the ME logo
Haha I have considered that! Good to know that the viewers want it too!
I liked the way the little pot plants kept moving around in the background... Big logo is a good idea
Trouble is: I like wearing black. But I’d also want to paint the wall black. Which means that the video would mostly be a floating head and arms.
Matt Estlea - Furniture woodworkers shop walls should be covered by wood and painting wood is a sin. The Jesus pen would never approve.
SO MANY THINGS TO THINK ABOUT GAARRGHHH
Hahaha. Man, I feel so incompetent watching this Matt. Can't believe how well this turns out. Good freaking skills mate.
The only skill here is patience and accurate marking out! Other than that I’m just chiselling back to some lines!
Link to where you can get that pen lol
What's with the buzzing @~5:40?
sir, what do you call the clamp you used?
Vise
In his case "a wooden vise"
I think he calls it "Bob". :-)
It would look real nice if you pinned it with contrasting doweling to
I'm looking for a Jesus pen and pencil matching set. That should certainly help my poor marking skills.
Can you do a video putting a joint together with those sharp pointy metal thingys? I think they are pronounced NAYLZ.
He probably doesn't own a hammer
As much as you plug their tools, I'm surprised Veritas hasn't sent you a clamp for your gauge yet.
Good vid (y)
Jezus pen rulez :D
Bridle joint felt a bit loose so Matt filled it with white sticky stuff.
what about checking for square??
In school I can always get my joints to line up well but once I'm at home it all goes wonky. It might be because I try less when at home and it's more of a relaxing hobby but no matter what theres always gaps and it annoys me how everything can be so consistently slightly off
Love the Jesus pen!
I will need to take great care when making these joints next time when the finish is only six layers of milk paint. ;)
I think he really likes fluffing out the bridal cheeks...
Matt I cant believe you needed a calculator to divide eight by three. Anyway I enjoy your lessons. Thanks
Never mind the Jesus pen - what about the beautifully finished joint?
Case of the magic wood.. 7:28 - 7:33 WHAAAA?
Its only a mistake if you acknowledge it.
I thought it was me. The grain pattern in the side of the work piece completely changed.
At college we don't do the fretsaw. Which is stupid
👏👏👏👏👏.....🇵🇪
Can i start woodworking if I don't have a jesus pen? :'(
You might struggle, it's a great source of motivation!
You can but you'll likely go to hell if you do....
Konrad, I'm sure a Jesus pen is not essential, any suitable deity would be fine based on your preferred religion.
Without this pen you can only fire wood
will a Budda pen help me cut to the line? all that paring would fry my head.
Are you a fan of the original Batman series??
WWTJPD?
"Cinematic cut-in"? You mean "montage"?
He means Cinematic cut-in
5:30 you called a tenon saw a rip saw:(
I don’t have a Jesus pen? I’ve got a Santa one will that work?
Nice work....yer to young to do that
As much as I hate to be 'That' guy... when making up the first piece, the final mark you made on the back face, was not referenced off the front or edge.....
just sayin :D
Entirely by hand? You used several tools.
Sorry for your joke trial
sadly i dont have a jesus pen so i cant make this :(
DO NOT (I repeat) DO NOT attempt to make this joint without a Jesus pen. The whole project will end in disaster.
Why so overbearing or arrogant? Technically it is very good!
What?