Thanks for the video. I am a homeowner and try to do my own handyman tasks that come up. I grew up sweating copper in the 1970’s with my Dad and I can do that but don’t prefer to be messing with copper. My home has copper and PVC and I am converting my pump house to PEX. I am tying into an existing pex line for a frost free house bib for my garden. This video was very helpful in showing the options. I have a clamp crimper and was wanting to get a crimper with the jaws in it for specific occasions. Thanks again for your very helpful video. All the best from north Texas.
Very thorough explanation. You not only go over how to install the various fittings, but also how to remove fittings. You were very succinct in your presentation! I have a pressure regulator valve that uses the PEX copper crimped fittings that's leaking. I'm going to switch to a valve that uses the "press to fit" inlet and outlets I'll have to swap out the crimped fitting and probably use new PEX to connect the regulator into the line, hence I will have to remove some of the copper rings. This video covered all of that and more. Thanks for all your effort putting it together! Spencer
@lyle1 I've been worried about a few buried T connections that lead to some hydrants. I used brass fittings and stainless clamp rings, but totally forgot to wrap them. After everything was buried, I looked on my work bench, saw the wrap, and my heart sank. So, we'll see how that goes. Might last 50 years, might last 50 weeks...
Here’s another tip when using the crimp ring cutter for reusing a fitting.. once you have cut the ring off you can remove the pex pipe from the fitting by doing the same process with the ring buster tool. Just cut 2 or 3 slits in the pipe with the tool and the pipe will fall right off. A lot simpler that heating the pipe up or trying to pull it off with pliers
For me, I returned the cinch tool that you show here and got a ratcheting multi-pull tool off Amazon, it was an iCrimp branded tool. It's half as long, can fit into much tighter spots, and even a non-gorilla like myself can cinch the rings one handed. It didn't cost any more than the normal tool does locally (about $50). Absolutely better in my opinion. The only downside is it is a little slower, like 15 seconds per crimp instead of 10 seconds.
After doing a lot of research I decided to use Pex A. However, the cost of the tool, to do a handful of small jobs just makes it too cost prohibitive. I used Pex B with the clamp ring yesterday, for the first time. Using the crimp tool on 3/4" does give you a bit of a workout. They make a tool to remove the ring with relative ease. It is usually around $30.
Pex A is really nice to work with, but not being able to stumble in to Lowes at 5PM on Sunday to get 10 extra feet of pipe or an extra handful of rings was the deal breaker for me. I'm not nearly organized enough to deal with that
Too many options for me, trying decide what to choose to redo all the old waterline in galvanized rusted. Used on cpvc pipe for emergency needed, did so much research and cost of this and that, and also considered supposedly possible issues with cancer long term, rats chewing on pipe, bacterial infection, melting and mess of the pipe system. And possible failures and waterleaks. Hard to choose. Well which is more expensive? More reliable against failures, against pests and infections and cancer. Longevity without failures and maintenance and future availability of supply of parts for repairs
i use press to connect, since for my home use. but i was thinking would be time to get the tools cause vs even a brass fitting the cost is a big gap. not that i don't trust press to connect but i will have to redo a lot of plumbing soon and can't spend 300$ + on press to connect still not sure if i would go with the clamp or the ring. still a debate but both good product i guess. thanks for the video
A good way to get a smooth square cut on the end of the PEX is to start the cut with pipe cutter and go all around and finish with the "scissors" type cutter.
As a licensed plumber for 23 years that won't work for most of us professionals. Way too time consuming and time is money. Probably work for the DIYer though.
The white plastic stiffener inside of the shark bite fitting is required for PEX pipe connection. It is not necessary when push fitting onto copper pipe. Myself, I prefer the expansion ring connections which you did not go over. As a professional plumber, I have the expansion tool, which is necessary for this type of connection.
Ah. That explains it. I don't reuse the press to fit when the stiffener comes out, but heard it was ok. Glad for the clarification. The expansion ring stuff kinda falls into a much more expensive realm. Not very homeowner friendly, IMO. Kinda goes hand in hand with PEX A, which i like, but it's defintely pricey
Direct from Sharkbite: SHARKBITE BRASS PUSH DEPTH GAUGE AND DEBURRING TOOL: SharkBite depth gauge and pipe deburring tool is ideal for deburring the outside of a COPPER pipe to remove any sharp sections or burrs; marks the proper insertion depth for SharkBite plumbing fittings COMPATIBILITY: Deburring tool is compatible with 1/4 to 1-inch-sized PEX, CPVC, PE-RT, SDR-9 HDPE, and copper
@@tannerwest6823I'm curious whether the leaks were due to installer error of the spec of distance required where the crimps should be placed? I saw a video that tested the bursting pressures between Pex A and Pex B. Both fitting types held, but it was the pipes themselves that bursted first, with Pex B came out just a little bit ahead of Pex A in its ability to hold pressure.
@ yes typically leaks in PEX are caused from installer error with the rings being crimp too close or too far away from the barbs of the fitting. Although I have seen a few times recently where pinholes have developed in PEX pipe and every time it has been on the hot water side within 10 inches of the pipe coming off the water heater
@@tannerwest6823 good to know, I'll keep an eye on the water heater hose side. Would you happen to know whether the push to connect fittings used to transition between sharkbite pex B and copper are equivalent in diameter, ie 1/2" to 1/2", or does the pex side need to go up 1/4"?
Best detailed explanation of the different products I've seen. Don't need to watch anything else after this. This is why I love YT. Thanks!!
Thanks for the video. I am a homeowner and try to do my own handyman tasks that come up. I grew up sweating copper in the 1970’s with my Dad and I can do that but don’t prefer to be messing with copper. My home has copper and PVC and I am converting my pump house to PEX. I am tying into an existing pex line for a frost free house bib for my garden. This video was very helpful in showing the options. I have a clamp crimper and was wanting to get a crimper with the jaws in it for specific occasions. Thanks again for your very helpful video. All the best from north Texas.
Very thorough explanation. You not only go over how to install the various fittings, but also how to remove fittings. You were very succinct in your presentation! I have a pressure regulator valve that uses the PEX copper crimped fittings that's leaking. I'm going to switch to a valve that uses the "press to fit" inlet and outlets I'll have to swap out the crimped fitting and probably use new PEX to connect the regulator into the line, hence I will have to remove some of the copper rings. This video covered all of that and more. Thanks for all your effort putting it together! Spencer
Thanks Spencer! Have fun with your project!
The press to fit stuff makes me nervous, but I've never seen one fail. From what i hear, they're very reliable.
@lyle1 I've been worried about a few buried T connections that lead to some hydrants. I used brass fittings and stainless clamp rings, but totally forgot to wrap them. After everything was buried, I looked on my work bench, saw the wrap, and my heart sank. So, we'll see how that goes. Might last 50 years, might last 50 weeks...
Thank you. I didn't know about the ring ones.
Here’s another tip when using the crimp ring cutter for reusing a fitting.. once you have cut the ring off you can remove the pex pipe from the fitting by doing the same process with the ring buster tool. Just cut 2 or 3 slits in the pipe with the tool and the pipe will fall right off. A lot simpler that heating the pipe up or trying to pull it off with pliers
I had No knowledge at all, I found your Video great for introduction. Thanx!
For me, I returned the cinch tool that you show here and got a ratcheting multi-pull tool off Amazon, it was an iCrimp branded tool. It's half as long, can fit into much tighter spots, and even a non-gorilla like myself can cinch the rings one handed. It didn't cost any more than the normal tool does locally (about $50). Absolutely better in my opinion. The only downside is it is a little slower, like 15 seconds per crimp instead of 10 seconds.
Thanks!
After doing a lot of research I decided to use Pex A. However, the cost of the tool, to do a handful of small jobs just makes it too cost prohibitive. I used Pex B with the clamp ring yesterday, for the first time. Using the crimp tool on 3/4" does give you a bit of a workout. They make a tool to remove the ring with relative ease. It is usually around $30.
Pex A is really nice to work with, but not being able to stumble in to Lowes at 5PM on Sunday to get 10 extra feet of pipe or an extra handful of rings was the deal breaker for me. I'm not nearly organized enough to deal with that
Dude you make good content, thank you for the help. I needed this for my DIY and it really helped
Thanks for the kind words. I hope your pipes are drip-free for years to come!
Finally, an honest opinion that makes sense! Thank you very much, this was a big help.
Too many options for me, trying decide what to choose to redo all the old waterline in galvanized rusted. Used on cpvc pipe for emergency needed, did so much research and cost of this and that, and also considered supposedly possible issues with cancer long term, rats chewing on pipe, bacterial infection, melting and mess of the pipe system. And possible failures and waterleaks. Hard to choose. Well which is more expensive? More reliable against failures, against pests and infections and cancer. Longevity without failures and maintenance and future availability of supply of parts for repairs
i use press to connect, since for my home use. but i was thinking would be time to get the tools cause vs even a brass fitting the cost is a big gap. not that i don't trust press to connect but i will have to redo a lot of plumbing soon and can't spend 300$ + on press to connect still not sure if i would go with the clamp or the ring. still a debate but both good product i guess. thanks for the video
Just buy them all, and then you never need to decide! I picked up a manual PEX-A tool on E-bay just to feel like I have all the bases covered
A good way to get a smooth square cut on the end of the PEX is to start the cut with pipe cutter and go all around and finish with the "scissors" type cutter.
As a licensed plumber for 23 years that won't work for most of us professionals. Way too time consuming and time is money. Probably work for the DIYer though.
Thank you, this is very informative.
Glad it was helpful!
Very Nice video. Thanks a lot.
Thanks for watching!
Good explanation of the various methods. However, the video quality is flawed by the constant hand waving and herky jerky fiddling with parts.
I'll fire my cinematographer, camera man, and assistant director immediately!
Very nice ,video ,thanks
Good simple explanations
The white plastic stiffener inside of the shark bite fitting is required for PEX pipe connection. It is not necessary when push fitting onto copper pipe.
Myself, I prefer the expansion ring connections which you did not go over. As a professional plumber, I have the expansion tool, which is necessary for this type of connection.
Ah. That explains it. I don't reuse the press to fit when the stiffener comes out, but heard it was ok. Glad for the clarification.
The expansion ring stuff kinda falls into a much more expensive realm. Not very homeowner friendly, IMO. Kinda goes hand in hand with PEX A, which i like, but it's defintely pricey
How long does the pex cutter last
I use a PVC cutter. I've had it for about three years. Buy a good one. I bought a cheap one and only could use it once.
PEX! I thought PEZ…dispensers and clamps🤨
I have to correct you. U shouldn't use pex B with pex A there each a complete different system.
A person can't use pex a fittings or expansion rings with pex b pipe, or pex b fittings with pex a expansion rings, but otherwise, it's compatible.
The PEX reamer is not meant for copper. The poly fittings are more for hard water.
Direct from Sharkbite: SHARKBITE BRASS PUSH DEPTH GAUGE AND DEBURRING TOOL: SharkBite depth gauge and pipe deburring tool is ideal for deburring the outside of a COPPER pipe to remove any sharp sections or burrs; marks the proper insertion depth for SharkBite plumbing fittings
COMPATIBILITY: Deburring tool is compatible with 1/4 to 1-inch-sized PEX, CPVC, PE-RT, SDR-9 HDPE, and copper
Cinch clamp rings. That’s what the stainless steel clamps are called. I hate them I only use the copper crimp rings
Why do you hate them?
@ fixed too many leaks where stainless cinch clamps were used
@@tannerwest6823I'm curious whether the leaks were due to installer error of the spec of distance required where the crimps should be placed? I saw a video that tested the bursting pressures between Pex A and Pex B. Both fitting types held, but it was the pipes themselves that bursted first, with Pex B came out just a little bit ahead of Pex A in its ability to hold pressure.
@ yes typically leaks in PEX are caused from installer error with the rings being crimp too close or too far away from the barbs of the fitting. Although I have seen a few times recently where pinholes have developed in PEX pipe and every time it has been on the hot water side within 10 inches of the pipe coming off the water heater
@@tannerwest6823 good to know, I'll keep an eye on the water heater hose side. Would you happen to know whether the push to connect fittings used to transition between sharkbite pex B and copper are equivalent in diameter, ie 1/2" to 1/2", or does the pex side need to go up 1/4"?