Thanks! I like it for tapping but not so much drilling. Just a little messy, works about the same as oil in my opinion but for tapping there is a big improvement over oil.
I made a rotary point that goes into my chuck, it's been years now and I drilled a little in the center of my tap holders on the top and it works very well
I did the same but used a 1/8" pin and drilled a deep hole. The handle was in the way so it was only 1/4" deep and the handles were too short. So I made this one.
@@WinkysWorkshop It saves me time and I can also tap almost straight on my drill press and perfectly straight if I remove the drill bit immediately to put in the tap holder.
@@passionbricolage712 Yeah, and hopefully you allow enough space between the chuck and the table to fit the tap handle so you won't lose you horizontal position when you drop the table. Why they don't make drill presses with a dovetailed column baffles me.
@@WinkysWorkshop no, that's just the problem, is that I have to lower the table and I lose the centering because of that. on a milling machine it's much better, yes it's true that with a dovetail the problem is solved, I thought of buying one in China but a big one is very expensive even in China. and then you have to put a screw and a handwheel to make it go up or down and you also need a big square clampable on the T grooves and that's also expensive. in the old days there were column drills with dovetails and adjustable in height too like on the old milling machines.
@@WinkysWorkshop I'm going to explain an idea I had that will cost a lot less than a dovetail table: you take a cross table, vevor or another brand. You put it vertically against your column and you make two plates that will go behind your column and that you will sandwich with collars or threaded rods, you set an average height of your vertical table so that you no longer need to move it, you put the handwheel of the lead screw at the bottom and like that you can raise or lower your table without moving. and in the T of the table you make 2 large 90 degree brackets plus a plate that can be fixed in the fixing slots of your current cross table. it will be very heavy but it will do the job perfectly. 👌When I have the means, I will do it.
Hi there Mark, Happy New Years, love those tap holders, you keep making things better. Questions where did you get those brass ball ends, and if your were to make and sell one of those tap holders could you tell me or give me a price. I have asked you a couple yrs back about the 1st one and forgot. I have the 2 piece Irwin set of the tap holds i bought at Lowes, I tired using a 3/8" small rachet extension cut the square head off and drilled and chambered the end it kinda works, but I don't like KINDA. thank you my friend for sharing your beautiful ideas to us all
I was hoping to see him turn a set of those ball ends, I’ve seen it before but it makes good content. Maybe next time he’ll show us again. I’ve had a set of those Irwin tap holders for over twenty years and I still use them all the time, they’re really handy when you take something apart and you just want to clean up the threads. Edit: I just noticed that there’s a link in the description for those 3/4” threaded brass balls, they’re a $1.30 each, you can’t make them that cheap, especially if you figure in your time. Thanks for showing that.
@Hoaxer51 yes, thank you, after watching the video all the way thru, I saw Mark had a link to where to buy the brass balls, and yes. Way cheaper to buy than make. Have a great weekend
G'day Mark. Excellent job overal, especially with a good working unit. Just wondering why you didn't shorten the locator shaft in the drill chuck by about 1/2" which would have saved even more virtical height. Well done Ted
Thanks, Locator shaft in the drill chuck? Oh... you mean the countersink bit in the chuck. Yeah, in the drill press its not a big issue but in the mill it is. I should have explained that better. I usually have a countersink bit in the chuck or collet to chamfer the hole before tapping so I made the tap handle to fit the bit.
No doubt the Anchorlube is good stuff for tapping and die cutting threads. Have you ever tried Rocol RTD or Trefolex cutting paste compounds? I find both of them work tremendously well.
I love it for cutting threads. The mess is a little annoying sometimes but worth it for threads. I've tried a bunch of oil based, oddly the green stuff works best for threads.
That is the way I intended it to work but it pulls the tail stock if I don't lock it. I usually pull the tail stock away from the cuck before reversing and then the die holder slide back in as intended.
Mark you once again have got the Minons in my head tugging at my finger wanting me to go out to the shop and build one. Where did you get the tap chucks? I have similar chucks with tailstock tap holders but would like to have individuals for the Tap holder build. Also where did you get the Brass balls?
Nice job, but, if you are drilling and tapping a hole, use a drill chuck, then simply replace the drill bit with a tap, and power tap the hole at lower speed. I've tapped thousands of holes using the above method, in drill press, and mills. Can't say I never broke a tap, but very seldom so.
@@t.d.mich.7064 I can't do that on my mill. It has a worm drive to the quill so a tap can't pull the quill. I like it in some respects, the quill never slips while I'm milling. Same on my drill press for a different reason. It has no reverse and it's single phase so I couldn't instantly reverse anyway
5/16" - I made one with 1/4 and they flexed. I didn't show it in the video but I turned the end down to 1/4" to accommodate the threaded balls I bought.
@@patrickoquin7215 Cool, I probably should have made a drawing but it was the first generation of the new design. I have made a few more and will make them available for sale. So if you are going to make some let me explain a few things. The dimensions are somewhat flexible. I used 1.25" bar 1.0" long. I cut the recess for the tap chuck 3/8" deep and then drilled the handle holes 1/4" from the top. The handles are made from stock 5/16" x 3" long and and the ball end is turned down to 1/4" to accommodate the 3/4" brass balls which had 1/4"-20 thread. The hole for the counter sink bit ends up being 1.25" deep when the 3/8" square socket is included. On the ones I'm selling I put a weld bead all the wat around because it looked nice but spot welding in two spots will be fine.
@@patrickoquin7215 have a look for GT tap holders. They are short and have tool-free changeovers. I'll show them in use on my mill and lathe over the next few weeks.
The more pieces you had together on a tap driver the less accurate your tap is going to tap through the hole. Too many pieces just to drive a tap. And then it will not be accurate when done if you actually take a small tap and experiment with it. Watch Joe pies video on this You might change your mind. 👍😁
Its basically like any other tap hold after its welded. As long as the recess is cut right there is no danger of it not being straight. Not the chuck itself might be a little off (most are, even Starrett). I'm a huge fan is Joe Pie and I've seen Joe's video and do not agree. Yes it is important to start fairly straight (which is why this wrench is guided but slight misalignments are never a problem. The hole basically straightens the tap unless its less than maybe an 1/8" deep. Never the less, these chucks (while not perfect) are better than average. I'm not sure what you are talking about when you say "more pieces" Its the same as any other tap wrench after its welded. No disrespect for you or Joe but I use a version of this tap wrench several times a day and have never had the slightest issue.
Mark was thinking of The Doors, "Break on Through to the other side". The perfect accompaniment for drilling holes. 😂
Heck yea! HA
Almost as much fun as Riders on the Swarf! 🎉
@@jeremylastname873 You sound like me.
Nice work Winky and a great way to start the new year. Thanks and cheers!
Thanks! Happy New Year!
Very creative. Josh Topper (Topper Machine Channel) uses Anchorlube extensively when drilling or tapping. Nice job Winky.
Thanks! I like it for tapping but not so much drilling. Just a little messy, works about the same as oil in my opinion but for tapping there is a big improvement over oil.
Nice work Mark. Looks like your parting tool holder is working great!
Thanks, yes I think it is perfected now.
Neat project I just might do one myself. Thanks for the video!
Thanks, and thanks for watching.
Great video winky, I made one a couple years ago after watching you make yours, work's great..
Cool, as you know, I use the heck out of mine. It appears in just about every video I do.
Good looking quality tool,Mark.Happy new year.Thank you.
Thank!
Interesting plan. I like it. Very nice work mister. Thanks
Cool, thanks!
Nice job.
Thanks for sharing. 👍🇺🇸👍
Thanks for watching!
I use Anchor lube for drilling and tapping. Great stuff.
It seems to be great for tapping!
Hello Winky, so long as your happy I'm happy, good job, thanks for sharing, cheers. 😃👍👍👍👍👍
Cheers! Glad you like it. Happy new year
@@WinkysWorkshop Happy New Year to you and your family, Thank You, Cheers.😀👍
I see things are getting shorter for the new year - nice. All the best Mark.
Ha, it happens!
I made a rotary point that goes into my chuck, it's been years now and I drilled a little in the center of my tap holders on the top and it works very well
I did the same but used a 1/8" pin and drilled a deep hole. The handle was in the way so it was only 1/4" deep and the handles were too short. So I made this one.
@@WinkysWorkshop It saves me time and I can also tap almost straight on my drill press and perfectly straight if I remove the drill bit immediately to put in the tap holder.
@@passionbricolage712 Yeah, and hopefully you allow enough space between the chuck and the table to fit the tap handle so you won't lose you horizontal position when you drop the table. Why they don't make drill presses with a dovetailed column baffles me.
@@WinkysWorkshop no, that's just the problem, is that I have to lower the table and I lose the centering because of that. on a milling machine it's much better, yes it's true that with a dovetail the problem is solved, I thought of buying one in China but a big one is very expensive even in China. and then you have to put a screw and a handwheel to make it go up or down and you also need a big square clampable on the T grooves and that's also expensive. in the old days there were column drills with dovetails and adjustable in height too like on the old milling machines.
@@WinkysWorkshop I'm going to explain an idea I had that will cost a lot less than a dovetail table: you take a cross table, vevor or another brand. You put it vertically against your column and you make two plates that will go behind your column and that you will sandwich with collars or threaded rods, you set an average height of your vertical table so that you no longer need to move it, you put the handwheel of the lead screw at the bottom and like that you can raise or lower your table without moving. and in the T of the table you make 2 large 90 degree brackets plus a plate that can be fixed in the fixing slots of your current cross table. it will be very heavy but it will do the job perfectly. 👌When I have the means, I will do it.
Nice work man!!!
Thanks
That Anchor Lube is good stuff!
I'm sold on it for tapping for sure.
@ My favorite is Tap Magic, used it for years as a machinist.
when drilling harden steel I've had success using masonry drills. even line boring points.
Wow... seems like they would need to be sharpened.
Are you going to raffle off your old one? Very nice job on the new one!
Haha, good idea!
In case you need one with bigger balls, or you could just use some Anchor Lube!
Hi there Mark, Happy New Years, love those tap holders, you keep making things better. Questions where did you get those brass ball ends, and if your were to make and sell one of those tap holders could you tell me or give me a price. I have asked you a couple yrs back about the 1st one and forgot. I have the 2 piece Irwin set of the tap holds i bought at Lowes, I tired using a 3/8" small rachet extension cut the square head off and drilled and chambered the end it kinda works, but I don't like KINDA. thank you my friend for sharing your beautiful ideas to us all
I was hoping to see him turn a set of those ball ends, I’ve seen it before but it makes good content. Maybe next time he’ll show us again.
I’ve had a set of those Irwin tap holders for over twenty years and I still use them all the time, they’re really handy when you take something apart and you just want to clean up the threads.
Edit:
I just noticed that there’s a link in the description for those 3/4” threaded brass balls, they’re a $1.30 each, you can’t make them that cheap, especially if you figure in your time. Thanks for showing that.
@Hoaxer51 yes, thank you, after watching the video all the way thru, I saw Mark had a link to where to buy the brass balls, and yes. Way cheaper to buy than make. Have a great weekend
Yep, "Grand Brass Lamps" is very reasonably priced although without a quantity the shopping hurts
I have several Tap handles and cutoff tools made to sell. I plan to make then available within two weeks. I'll announce this in a video.
Great idea, thanks.
No problem! Thanks for watching
How do you like the AnchorLube compared to what you were using before? For tapping? For drilling?
Not so much for drilling... works well just a little messy but for tapping the difference is significant.
G'day Mark. Excellent job overal, especially with a good working unit.
Just wondering why you didn't shorten the locator shaft in the drill chuck by about 1/2" which would have saved even more virtical height.
Well done
Ted
Thanks, Locator shaft in the drill chuck? Oh... you mean the countersink bit in the chuck. Yeah, in the drill press its not a big issue but in the mill it is. I should have explained that better. I usually have a countersink bit in the chuck or collet to chamfer the hole before tapping so I made the tap handle to fit the bit.
Very Nice!
Thanks!
No doubt the Anchorlube is good stuff for tapping and die cutting threads. Have you ever tried Rocol RTD or Trefolex cutting paste compounds? I find both of them work tremendously well.
I love it for cutting threads. The mess is a little annoying sometimes but worth it for threads. I've tried a bunch of oil based, oddly the green stuff works best for threads.
Nice! Do ya think if ya used a end mill the size of that roll pin, it would go into that hardened piece?
Probably... or carbide drill. Might be a good option if you don't have a welder.
Try anchorlube for drilling you will find that it's much better than cutting oil and drill bits stay sharper longer.
I like it for tapping but didn't see much difference with drilling. I'll try it again.
Nice , thanks for the video . Where do you get those tap chucks ?
Thanks, I put a link in the description.
Does your tailstock die holder not telescope? It was odd to see the die holder (which appears to telescope) pull in the tailstock like that.
That is the way I intended it to work but it pulls the tail stock if I don't lock it. I usually pull the tail stock away from the cuck before reversing and then the die holder slide back in as intended.
Mark you once again have got the Minons in my head tugging at my finger wanting me to go out to the shop and build one. Where did you get the tap chucks? I have similar chucks with tailstock tap holders but would like to have individuals for the Tap holder build. Also where did you get the Brass balls?
Thanks Terry, I put a ink to the tap holders in the description and will do the same with the brass balls
Nice job, but, if you are drilling and tapping a hole, use a drill chuck, then simply replace the drill bit with a tap, and power tap the hole at lower speed. I've tapped thousands of holes using the above method, in drill press, and mills. Can't say I never broke a tap, but very seldom so.
@@t.d.mich.7064 I can't do that on my mill. It has a worm drive to the quill so a tap can't pull the quill. I like it in some respects, the quill never slips while I'm milling. Same on my drill press for a different reason. It has no reverse and it's single phase so I couldn't instantly reverse anyway
Right on 👍🏻
Thanks James
Good morning Mark,
Where did you get your tap chucks?
Hello Jim, the link is in the description.
I like it! ;)
Me too, thanks!
I like it😂
Thanks!
Are the handles made from 1/4" rod? They look like 5/16" or 3/8" in the video.
5/16" - I made one with 1/4 and they flexed. I didn't show it in the video but I turned the end down to 1/4" to accommodate the threaded balls I bought.
Oh Okay, I noticed the balls were threaded 1/4-20 😂
Santa brought me a set of the tap chucks for Christmas and I am going to make a set of these.
@@patrickoquin7215 Cool, I probably should have made a drawing but it was the first generation of the new design. I have made a few more and will make them available for sale. So if you are going to make some let me explain a few things. The dimensions are somewhat flexible. I used 1.25" bar 1.0" long. I cut the recess for the tap chuck 3/8" deep and then drilled the handle holes 1/4" from the top. The handles are made from stock 5/16" x 3" long and and the ball end is turned down to 1/4" to accommodate the 3/4" brass balls which had 1/4"-20 thread. The hole for the counter sink bit ends up being 1.25" deep when the 3/8" square socket is included. On the ones I'm selling I put a weld bead all the wat around because it looked nice but spot welding in two spots will be fine.
@@patrickoquin7215 have a look for GT tap holders. They are short and have tool-free changeovers. I'll show them in use on my mill and lathe over the next few weeks.
The more pieces you had together on a tap driver the less accurate your tap is going to tap through the hole. Too many pieces just to drive a tap. And then it will not be accurate when done if you actually take a small tap and experiment with it. Watch Joe pies video on this You might change your mind. 👍😁
Its basically like any other tap hold after its welded. As long as the recess is cut right there is no danger of it not being straight. Not the chuck itself might be a little off (most are, even Starrett). I'm a huge fan is Joe Pie and I've seen Joe's video and do not agree. Yes it is important to start fairly straight (which is why this wrench is guided but slight misalignments are never a problem. The hole basically straightens the tap unless its less than maybe an 1/8" deep. Never the less, these chucks (while not perfect) are better than average. I'm not sure what you are talking about when you say "more pieces" Its the same as any other tap wrench after its welded. No disrespect for you or Joe but I use a version of this tap wrench several times a day and have never had the slightest issue.