Making A Six String Multi Scale Guitar: 1K vs 2K Polyurethane Finish
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- Опубліковано 4 лип 2024
- In this video, I will explore 1K and 2K polyurethane finishes for guitars. If you would like to help support my channel and get something cool in return, please consider the following:
www.eguitarplans.com/
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Crystalac Brite Tone Instrument Finish: www.crystalac.com/collections... - Навчання та стиль
I used polyurethane on kitchen bench tops for as a business for 6 years bcs it’s awesome durability!! I used Strom respirator with 3M double filters & never had health issues!! The gloss was amazing once buffed!! I also used an extraction system you can buy off EBay or hardware shops under $200 to take fumes out the house. Polyurethane does have a shocking smell but won’t hurt you if using decent respirator!! I know fellow workers had asthma & no issues
isocyanates, in addition to the respiratory hazards are skin sensitizers. Similarly to something like Mercury, the body doesn't metabolize it so additional touch exposures compound and become worse. It's definitely worth the mention to always wear gloves when handling them, remove the gloves properly and dispose of them in a dedicated container then douse in a product such as Dynasolve to neutralize the isocyanate.
Keep up the great work Chris 🤘
you are definitely the best on UA-cam love all your videos and your work thank you so much for sharhing. Love and peace from Australia
Good video Chris.
As always, i give a thumb up. Big Fan of your knowledge.
I’ve just bought 3M A2P2 filters for their 6000 series mask and the package explicitly says not to use them with products containing isocyanates. That being said I’ve read that those activated charcoal filters can block isocyanates but no data on how long and what concentration in the air, so it’s best to renew them often (they have a shelf life anyways). BTW isocyanates are odorless so you can’t know that you are being exposed to them whilst spraying.
@@benrouf By themselves, isocyanates are odorless, but the catalyst they are mixed in aren’t. If you can smell an odor, you exposed.
Thanks
For people doubting water based finishes: I asked Goding guitars what top coat they use, and they said water based 2K polyurethane (I have the email to prove it) These products are used for high traffick flooring so you can imagine its durability.
@@AnkaCustomGuitarsBasses A lot of car companies use WB 2k polyurethane as well.
That was incredibly educational, thanks Chris. Have you ever used Emtech EM6000 water based acrylic lacquer?
I used it on a couple of guitars about 10 years ago.
Thank you Chris as always for these videos and your experimenting type brain,
for now I think laquar is probably safest but I am thinking of trying maybe the deft clear brushing laquar or maybe doing shellac with resin and denatured alchohol with the resin that you can buy in the bag. Or maybe trying over laquar for the clear the urathane spray can you used since it is uv resistant or maybe I will test my rustoleum universal high gloss clear which says uv resistant I don't know yet.
But while I love laquar I am not crazy about old school nitro laquar I am into acrylic type laquar. Which I think watco minwax and deft is because the deft seems uv resistant like the duplicolor perfect match cans are which is meant for cars. But I need to start thinking about options that my body can handle.
Anyway my mij jackson style electronics cavity plate came today. So I am pleased because now I figured out how to get some plexi from Lowes and how to correct a precut Chinese electronics cavity cut out that was all wrong so I can then make a custum one and how to route that cavity out bigger so it will work for that guitar my other body because nothing for the for the electronics cavities were cut out so I am golden on that but I learned my lesson don't buy precut bodies from China even if the wood is good.
So soon mdf time to make my own templates for shapes. And hopefully soon I will be able to purchase a Eddie van Halen blueprint sheet for his 5150 kramer build but it would help if I can actaully get the corect strat body type I have seen the so called Chinese knockoffs but I am not sure if they got every detail right. But I know basic strat body shape.
Thanks Chris. Informative as always. Halfway through the vid, I paused it and searched for 2k polyurethane here in the UK. As is fairly usual, it sent me off on a tangent on airless sprayers. I find it strange that I’ve only now just heard of these (I don’t recall this appearing for research into air compressor/ hvlp sprayers previously done). Have you had any experiences/ heard anything about airless spray systems?
They’re for spraying very thick materials like latex paint on house exteriors and kitchen cabinets.
Great info, tx! Is the Solares a final coat or more like the Z-poxy (filler, base coat)? Also, 2k is hard to buff isn't it - was that also a reason to stop using it?
@@MarkRawling Solarez offers a sealer/grain filler and a clear top coat. 2k is super easy to buff as long as you use a buffing machine with large buffing wheels. I stopped using it because of how toxic it is.
Bit of a side note question, Chris. Do you know if the ICBINL Grain Filler can be used as a finish on its own? When I compare the technical data sheets, the only difference I see is in the density (1.2 vs 1.15). I just seem to be able to get ther grain filler to lay out better than the top coat when brushing/wiping on. Thank you very much for your videos and channel.
That’s a question for Solarez. Ask them.
@@HighlineGuitars Thanks. I did ask them a couple fo times. Couldn't get a response. So it goes...
For anyone who happens to read this in the future, I finally heard from Solarez on this question. The filler can be used as a finish but will be a bit less glossly.
Hi there. I've been using the uv curing fininish and have some issues with level sanding and buffing. The problem is, when you apply the last coat, then lavel sand it and sand it through that last coat, so you can see the fine line of the previous coat, and after buffing, this line is still visible. Did you have this kind of issue with solorez finish? Thanks
No, I don't. Describe your buffer.
The buffer I have is stewmac. Sorry, maybe I didn't explain this issue well enough. The problem is that the uv cure finish that I am using does not bond together between coats. And when I sand through the final coat, I can see the really fine circular marks, which is not possible to buff out.
@@ag22197422 Those lines are called witness lines and they are common with any finish where each coat sits on top of the previous coat. The only finish where each coat melts together to form a single homogeneous coat is nitrocellulose lacquer. There are two things I can recommend. One is to develop the skills to apply each coat consistently so there are no high and low spots. This actually goes all the way back to prepping the wood itself. My second recommendation is to experiment with different buffing wheels, buffing speeds, and buffing compounds to find the ideal combination that will erase those witness lines. In terms of craftsmanship, the first recommendation is the one to focus on. I hope this helps. I haven't seen a witness line in years.
Thanks for sharing again. Curious if you've stumbled on Clean Armor yet? It's a UV cured finish that seems to not have any faults. I know is there such a thing. Curious if you've tried it or not. I build arch top guitars and haven't seen much info on using it for guitars
I discovered Clean Armor recently and am also curious about it. I don't mind paying a premium but the shelf life is only a year, so it's hard to justify when I only got two guitars to build.
I've heard of it. It's too expensive. I'll stick with Solarez.
@@HighlineGuitars Stumpy Nubs just did a video on Clean Armor. I'm not sure how it differs, chemically, from Solarez but it sure seems like they are the same thing. But since Stumpy has a fairly wide range among woodworkers and there is a lot of overlap of woodworkers with guitar builders, expect a lot of comments.
@@HandlebarWorkshops I saw the video and since its release, I have had numerous requests for comment. At about $160 for a quart, I'll stick with Solarez ICBINL at half that price.
@@HighlineGuitars Ok so I have read the comments and this is what Ive taken away. If you're doing one off guitars its probably not worth it. due to shelf life and relative cost. But if you are doing a run of guitars I think it most definitely should be in the conversation. I build in batches of 6-7 and the fact that you can grain fill, and add multiple coats IN A DAY. I mean that's hard to argue against. On top of the health concerns when using and multiple application methods I feel like it should be talked about more than just dismissing it to solarez. IMHO Once again for building in batches. Not to mention lack of yellowing, cracking, and the fact it self heals (whatever that means) combined with how fast you can move through the stages safely.....Not to mention you can get a glass finish rather quickly...It's a little too dismissive to not account for these properties. Im going to do some test runs but im strongly considering applying it to my current batch. And with regards to cost....how much time, energy, effort, and cost of other materials does the cost of finishing really matter that much. Supposedly a bottle goes a lot further than most finishes (or so they say). So yes the bottle is pricey but will cover 3x the surface area if used properly. This is coming from their site and emailing in detail with Steffan from wood cutters to get as much info as possible. Since you have a UA-cam channel it is worth exploring and sharing. The only downfall is cost and shelf life, but once you apply how much surface area it covers, it comes close to Solarez. But im bad at math ;)
Thanks!
No.
@@HighlineGuitars thanks just saw the answer at the end of the video
@@mbmurphy777 To be fair, I like to use different products for different situations. I also like to experiment a lot.