Genuine question: do slopey and compressiony boulders tend to be graded harder than crimpy boulders in Japan? The first 2 boulders looked significantly easier to me than the 3rd boulder, which was 1-2 grades easier according to the video. But I have very large hands and a wide wingspan, so slopey and compressiony boulders are my jam, whereas crimpy boulders are not. I could see how the average size of people in Japan being smaller could contribute to a grading bias the opposite of my own.
As someone who learned to climb in Japan (primarily bouldering), it is safe to say that the grades are in general sandbagged there. It's even worse for older outdoor areas like Mitake and Mizugaki, where the holds have been polished by significant traffic. Mitake is especially hard because the rock is chert, which feels like climbing glass sloping crimps. For reference, when I was a V6 climber in Japan (1 Kyu in Japanese grade) and I visited the US, I was able to climb several V8s of different styles at the gym without too much difficulty. Hope that helped!
I'm a UK climber where grades are generally sandbagged but when I climbed in Mitake it was even more sandbagged than I wa used to. These are hard climbs for their grade made to look very easy in this video.
No, trust me, everything in Mitake is sandbagged. The rock is chert, glassy and feet are decievingly terrible. My experience of V7 in Mitake was closer to V8 in Europe.
Sorry brah.. not youtube worthy. Just because that chicks ur girlfriend, sister.... doesn't mean she gets a apart in the video. God im harsh. Im not a super amazing climber tho, hence I dont post videos of myself climbing because I know no one cares. Clogging youtube gets annoying and makes searching for certain things a pain. Thats why the criticism.
I actually really enjoy watching the lower graded things like 6-8 because that's what a lot of people climb. When I need inspiration to set at my gym, something under 8 is what most people climb. Setting a bunch of double digit v grade boulders doesn't help the community at large and only showing those boulders in videos leaves out a huge portion of climbs. I think you would do better in the climbing community if you understood how much more important the community aspect is than the v-grade.
Vaya lugar mas bello, mi favorito Mine no Yu, Japon tiene todo!!
この動画の雰囲気が本当に好きです
this first song is great i would love it if i was able to find out what it is called, I apologize for a late comment im only seeing this video now.
Gorgeous area. Loved the video!
So awesome dude 🤙
岩場の足のコツを教えてほしいです…。この前初めて行ったんですが乗り込むと滑る感覚があって安定させられませんでした…。
おだモモやっぱり可愛い😆❤︎
Relaxing
ももちゃんナイス♡
撮影機材は何を使ってるんですか?
Genuine question: do slopey and compressiony boulders tend to be graded harder than crimpy boulders in Japan? The first 2 boulders looked significantly easier to me than the 3rd boulder, which was 1-2 grades easier according to the video. But I have very large hands and a wide wingspan, so slopey and compressiony boulders are my jam, whereas crimpy boulders are not. I could see how the average size of people in Japan being smaller could contribute to a grading bias the opposite of my own.
As someone who learned to climb in Japan (primarily bouldering), it is safe to say that the grades are in general sandbagged there. It's even worse for older outdoor areas like Mitake and Mizugaki, where the holds have been polished by significant traffic. Mitake is especially hard because the rock is chert, which feels like climbing glass sloping crimps. For reference, when I was a V6 climber in Japan (1 Kyu in Japanese grade) and I visited the US, I was able to climb several V8s of different styles at the gym without too much difficulty. Hope that helped!
1st boulder: Line may be a bit off.
2nd boulder: Don't let your eyes deceive you! Ryuichi makes it look easy
I'm a UK climber where grades are generally sandbagged but when I climbed in Mitake it was even more sandbagged than I wa used to. These are hard climbs for their grade made to look very easy in this video.
There is no way on earth that first boulder is a v7
Why ? It looks easy so it's a V7...
No, trust me, everything in Mitake is sandbagged. The rock is chert, glassy and feet are decievingly terrible. My experience of V7 in Mitake was closer to V8 in Europe.
Sorry brah.. not youtube worthy. Just because that chicks ur girlfriend, sister.... doesn't mean she gets a apart in the video. God im harsh. Im not a super amazing climber tho, hence I dont post videos of myself climbing because I know no one cares. Clogging youtube gets annoying and makes searching for certain things a pain. Thats why the criticism.
bruh are you six years old
I actually really enjoy watching the lower graded things like 6-8 because that's what a lot of people climb. When I need inspiration to set at my gym, something under 8 is what most people climb. Setting a bunch of double digit v grade boulders doesn't help the community at large and only showing those boulders in videos leaves out a huge portion of climbs.
I think you would do better in the climbing community if you understood how much more important the community aspect is than the v-grade.
The girl in the video is his girlfriend momoka oda, who represented Japan in the ifsc circuit years ago.
no
I’ve never seen this much pathetic comment. Grow up.