I want to confirm, it fits the twist/fuse cover perfectly, GREAT SUCCESS!! Just an update, I printed this with an exact 8mm hex and it fit perfectly. What a time to be alive where we can print things so accurately! You can get even more torque on the 8mm version. That's the one I uploaded to printables.
To clarify, the reason you couldn't extrude without first clicking the sides was because you had the profile of the socket selected. That had fusion assume you wanted to extrude the socket face instead. Aside from going out and selecting the correct face, you can also choose a face in the extrude tool in the toolbox :) Also great video!
@@backofficeshow Depends on the use case, but I tend to use gyroid or cubic. With the default of 'grid' (which for some reason Bambu Lab won't change, despite Orca and Prusia Slider both not using it as default anymore), you will hear grinding noises when the nozzle runs over the raised intersections. Apparently the same issue can happen with rectilinear.
I've made larger ones to put M16 nuts on the bolt that holds my bike rack to my car - it always took an age to finger tighten them up as they had to pull in a vibration resisting bar also..... I made them with a 12mm end for the cordless drill chuck, and they work really well.... I also made similar to play with - a car scissor jack of mine has a nut on the drive shaft, that you are supposed to turn with a small lever/socket.... the cordless drill is much faster - I've snapped a pair of these though, much more torque!
That's really interesting, M16 is pretty big! I'm designing a rig to test the force these can take and measure the result. I'm curious as to how to print the strongest versions possible!
I wanted a flat driver for interchangeable driver bits a while back, I was really supprised his well it worked, I assumed printing something like that would be an terrible failure. Two tips though: Increasing the thickness of the walls/number of perimeters generally does more to improve strength than adding more infill. When you did the second cut to clear the cross bar you could have dragged the original cut to the end of the timeline rather than doubling up on the feature. It may not matter much for a simple part of a one off, but that sort of thing can really mess up your day on a more complex project if you come back to make changes later.
Those are great tips. I just ordered a digital torque wrench as I get this topic needs to be approached scientifically and including exotic filaments. I'll use your tips in the new socket designs! Is there is a nice way in fusion to make length parametric? That would make life easier to output standard and long sockets
@@backofficeshow there is a menu for parameters (I think it uses a capital sigma for an icon) you can create named parameters there then use the names in place of the measurements when dimensioning. Also the more you can do to ensure things are set relative to what actually matters the better off you will be. Such as setting the length of an extrude as up to surface or offset from surface to the surface rather than using absolute measurements the better things will hold together as you go. If there is one thing I render from my car classes it is the phrase "capture design intent", is the cut 20mm deep or is it half way through a 40mm part? That difrance matters a lot if the thickness of the the part changes later.
I was going to try it, but it's raining 😂 But yes, it will 100% work. It holds a plastic lid on so will not require even as much torque as I demonstrated. I will print a second one and leave them permanently installed. I might reduce the size to 7.9mm so they have an interference fit.
@RossReedstrom good idea, but the access is limited. I'm wondering now though..... What if I take this same design. Remove the hex and replace it with a hollow tube. The diameter just shy of that internal to the m8. Then tap out an m8 thread. The whole thing becomes the nut? It will never rust out and if it gets bound up, it will be a lot easier to break out than a rusted nyloc?
@@backofficeshow since it's just holding a cover on, not a lot of load, it could work. But your existing design, undersized so the nyloc press fits, basically is a nice thumb screw/wing nut as it is. Just leave it in place! That's what I was trying to say.
It's easy enough to get off when you are at home or the garage, but I wanted a tool that I could leave in the vehicle, or in this case, permanently slotted over the nut. I think they didn't make a great design decision with the nut
I just ordered a digital torque wrench. This subject has got me interested enough to want to test it properly. I would like to see how large we can actually get and what reasonable levels of torque are possible. The idea of being able to print your own sockets in an emergency is cool, Also having non-marring sockets would be very useful as well!
@simonmccolljones2445 great idea..I tried it for intended purpose and it was more than adequate. However for my upcoming "tested to destruction" 3D printed socket set, I will certainly use your suggestion. I am rather excited to see how much force these really can take. I ordered a digital torque wrench with peak force gauge 👍
I want to confirm, it fits the twist/fuse cover perfectly, GREAT SUCCESS!!
Just an update, I printed this with an exact 8mm hex and it fit perfectly. What a time to be alive where we can print things so accurately!
You can get even more torque on the 8mm version. That's the one I uploaded to printables.
To clarify, the reason you couldn't extrude without first clicking the sides was because you had the profile of the socket selected. That had fusion assume you wanted to extrude the socket face instead.
Aside from going out and selecting the correct face, you can also choose a face in the extrude tool in the toolbox :)
Also great video!
Thanks, I'll have to rewatch and see myself doing it wrong. After years of using fusion it broke my brain 😂
When you want stronger prints, increase the walls, not infill.
Wall perimeters add way more to strength than infill.
Also don't use grid, it's the worst infill as it causes collisions with the nozzle.
@hippopotamus86 what is best to use by default?
@@backofficeshow Depends on the use case, but I tend to use gyroid or cubic. With the default of 'grid' (which for some reason Bambu Lab won't change, despite Orca and Prusia Slider both not using it as default anymore), you will hear grinding noises when the nozzle runs over the raised intersections. Apparently the same issue can happen with rectilinear.
I've made larger ones to put M16 nuts on the bolt that holds my bike rack to my car - it always took an age to finger tighten them up as they had to pull in a vibration resisting bar also..... I made them with a 12mm end for the cordless drill chuck, and they work really well.... I also made similar to play with - a car scissor jack of mine has a nut on the drive shaft, that you are supposed to turn with a small lever/socket.... the cordless drill is much faster - I've snapped a pair of these though, much more torque!
That's really interesting, M16 is pretty big! I'm designing a rig to test the force these can take and measure the result. I'm curious as to how to print the strongest versions possible!
I wanted a flat driver for interchangeable driver bits a while back, I was really supprised his well it worked, I assumed printing something like that would be an terrible failure.
Two tips though:
Increasing the thickness of the walls/number of perimeters generally does more to improve strength than adding more infill.
When you did the second cut to clear the cross bar you could have dragged the original cut to the end of the timeline rather than doubling up on the feature. It may not matter much for a simple part of a one off, but that sort of thing can really mess up your day on a more complex project if you come back to make changes later.
Those are great tips. I just ordered a digital torque wrench as I get this topic needs to be approached scientifically and including exotic filaments.
I'll use your tips in the new socket designs! Is there is a nice way in fusion to make length parametric? That would make life easier to output standard and long sockets
@@backofficeshow there is a menu for parameters (I think it uses a capital sigma for an icon) you can create named parameters there then use the names in place of the measurements when dimensioning. Also the more you can do to ensure things are set relative to what actually matters the better off you will be. Such as setting the length of an extrude as up to surface or offset from surface to the surface rather than using absolute measurements the better things will hold together as you go. If there is one thing I render from my car classes it is the phrase "capture design intent", is the cut 20mm deep or is it half way through a 40mm part? That difrance matters a lot if the thickness of the the part changes later.
I took a moment to check, the parameters menu is the fx icon, on the solid/modify toolbar.
But you didn't answer the real question? Did it work in the car?
I was going to try it, but it's raining 😂
But yes, it will 100% work. It holds a plastic lid on so will not require even as much torque as I demonstrated. I will print a second one and leave them permanently installed.
I might reduce the size to 7.9mm so they have an interference fit.
@@backofficeshow Ah, so convert the buried castlenut into a hand friendly t-nut. Great idea.
@RossReedstrom good idea, but the access is limited. I'm wondering now though.....
What if I take this same design. Remove the hex and replace it with a hollow tube. The diameter just shy of that internal to the m8.
Then tap out an m8 thread.
The whole thing becomes the nut?
It will never rust out and if it gets bound up, it will be a lot easier to break out than a rusted nyloc?
@@backofficeshow since it's just holding a cover on, not a lot of load, it could work. But your existing design, undersized so the nyloc press fits, basically is a nice thumb screw/wing nut as it is. Just leave it in place! That's what I was trying to say.
Y not use a deep socket from a socket set?
It's easy enough to get off when you are at home or the garage, but I wanted a tool that I could leave in the vehicle, or in this case, permanently slotted over the nut. I think they didn't make a great design decision with the nut
I wonder if an AI service or add-on would help with printing.You could make all manner of tools with zero margin of error 😂
That's an interesting idea 🤔
Dumb intelligence might be enough for purely parametric designs and be faster
Wood squished down don't really hold the torque.
I just ordered a digital torque wrench. This subject has got me interested enough to want to test it properly. I would like to see how large we can actually get and what reasonable levels of torque are possible.
The idea of being able to print your own sockets in an emergency is cool, Also having non-marring sockets would be very useful as well!
Make the toggle wider then run a 1-2mm fillet all around the base of the tool to the toggle. That will increase your torque strength.
@simonmccolljones2445 great idea..I tried it for intended purpose and it was more than adequate. However for my upcoming "tested to destruction" 3D printed socket set, I will certainly use your suggestion. I am rather excited to see how much force these really can take. I ordered a digital torque wrench with peak force gauge 👍