for the record, there is quite a big difference between waffling and being thorough for the sake of accuracy, and by the way, your explanation of fuel trim in a way that anybody can understand is the best I've ever heard.......
Just wanted to say thank you for this video, I had an issue where I may have put diesel into my fuel injected Husqvarna. Spent ages cleaning everything, but no matter what I did it just wouldn’t idle right and got hot fast. Just as I was about to give up I found this and went and checked the rubber sleeve which connects the injection system to the air intake… I had forgotten to tighten the jubilee clips so the fuel air mix was off. A simple tightening and it fired right up and idles steady. Thank you so much as this frustrated me to the point I nearly gave up.
This is AWESOME! But I do have one suggestion: instead of just trying to be less wordy or shorter (I do like how you go into the details) why not just put timestamps in the description of the important points? Some people might miss the info because they have to watch through a 10 min film and can't pick out the answer they need.
excellent video. will try the brake cleaner trick. got slight misfire on my 1250 bandit. replaced coils, plugs,fuel pump, balanced injectors. injector cleaner. no joy so far. spent££££s.
I use propane - just a common propane torch with a hose from the business end, a small piece of brake pipe can be used to make a nice probe to run around the suspected leak areas.
Very helpful! I was looking for help regarding my 2003 Speed Triple backfiring and your explanation of the vacuum hoses and throttle housing was very helpful. Added bonus was you were working with an F800gs which is my other bike!
Great video. What would suggest looking at for a bike that has recently started stumbling at higher revs? Coils are good, getting spark, both cylinders and pipes getting hot
Does the heat from the engine ever affect the fuel/air mix in the inlet manifolds (evaporating the fuel particles on the way in)? I always wonder why bikes don't have phenolic spacers at the head? Maybe the short distance between carb and head overcomes this. Not that I'm a mechanic or anything, I barely understand what I've just written ;)
Yes sort of, without getting into it too deeply the reason engines needs choke (rich mixture) is because the fuel vapour condenses on the cold manifold wall. So temperature plays a huge part. There are also other things at play, the lower the temperature of the ingested air the tighter the air molecules of packed together. This also has a considerable effect on the air fuel ratio. It's a really deep and interesting subject, at some point I'll go into it in more detail. Thanks for watching :)
A propane torch or map gas torch works well for finding vacuum leaks as well. Just open the torch valve without igniting the gas and aim the torch tip towards the suspected leak, the gas will get sucked into any leaks.
I get a pop and bang / air noise near the gasket on the exhaust manifold, I think its just blown copper gaskets, but my question is: would a lean mix cause this area to afterfire/ back fire? I dont know why my bike won't start its carburetors and was running okay but backfired now can't really get it to start, it has compression, spark, fuel ... so I'm thinking a lean mix or leak maybe? Whats your thoughts and what could I try
I’ve got a 14 Yamaha Bolt with aftermarket intake, exhaust and a recently installed tuner. Last summer I started experiencing a sputter on start off to the point it almost dies. Sometimes it even starts acting up at 50 mph down the highway. Any ideas?
I wanted to ask you, let say its not a traditional vacuum leak, but a 100% case of lean mixture from the carb and especially noticeable on decelleration/closing throttle. Where to i fix that lean mix? Is it going richer on the idle circuit OR raising the needle when looking broadly at it? What i also wonder is, does the engine get a little bit leaner going off the throttle downhill than when its standing still idling? Is there a difference there from a CV carb to a FCR?
Wow, lots of questions! It's the idle circuit you need to pay attention to in the case of an afterfire (poping in the exhaust on decerebration, closed throttle) Carb type is irrelevant in respect to what's moving the slide, when the slide is shut the engine is only getting air/fuel from the idle circuit. On decel the engine is getting a larger volume of fuel/air than it would at idle but the ratio is the same. Most bikes that have an afterfire problem due to a lean mixer almost always suffer with idling problems. There is a little bit more to it because some carburettors cut off the fuel supply from the idle circuit on decel but that's another story!
Excellent explaination! Thanks for that. I do have most of the problems from idle to 1/4 throttle. It's pretty annoying and can't really enjoy driving the bike. I have this Mikuni TM40 Flatslide and it probably was configured for a HD, but i've changed most of the parts for that. But i read on some snowmobile forum a guy who said these carbs were prone to wear. And i think mine is worn. Maybe the slide and linkages in there. I think my driving suits better for the orig. CV carb on this bike. The flatslide is too abrupt on the throttle for my bike which has no rubbercusions on the rear hub so it may take its toll on the outputshaft splines also. I think i will just buy a new stock carb and go from there. Thanks again for the super explaination :-)
I have a slightly irregular idle and it occasionally has a little stutter when i accelerate, is that a vacuum leak? And if so what do i call the thing i need to replace? No mechanic in NZ wants to help me with my hyosung.
Hi There From Canada Mike here I have a Hayabusa 2005 with a problem , I start the bike and and it will only idle at about 2000rpm if I give it throttle it will stick at about 4000 and climes even after I close the throttle ,I'm just changing injectors , have checked vacuum hoses. going to replace map boost pressure sensor all so changed fuel pump.Can you help cant ride it that way .Thanks Michael Anthony
My royal enfield 535 was sitting for years ..i'm trying to get in running..replaced some broken rubber air tubes..cleaned injector ...fuel pump was stuck ..opened and unsieged the stuck motor....checked the tps voltage....the bike will run but is getting stalled (may be due to overheat )and there is no throttle response..like its getting sudden surge (not able to go beyond 2nd gear due to this heavy surge)...any idea would be highly appreciated.. Is it related to fuel pressure because of opening fuel pump motor?
Good video. I suggest you do a tech explain video and the simplied quick fix video. You can waffle on in one and just give the primary information in the other. Hooah
There iis nothing wrong with info that takes a while so long as what your going on about is relevant, you seem to know bikes so I’ll listen without bitching! :)
Helo sir …i ride hayabusa 2018 ….after the recent service of my bike …i just drove her frm service centre to home and I noticed some misfiring frm Exhaust when the bike is around 3000-5000 rpm while deceleration I changed fue filter and spark plug as my bike has done 33000 kms plus bt the misfire issue is still there
Bit late with this, so I think I let the bike get low in fuel, added some then she started running lean, wouldn't start so I changed the spark plugs and now it's going but has afterfire and the choke isn't working properly as in its not responding, just staying the same as if it were off, any tips ?
Hi, so I have a question if someone can help. So the bike is a 01 yamaha r6 and recently I went in to clean the carbs because it sat for a while and gas would leak. While I was in the carb for the 1st time I noticed that 2 needle valves in the float bowls were missing and the other 2 didn't have the fixture that hooks onto the actual float. Now it doesn't start and I get a popping when I try to start. It had poor gas mileage before and would sputter when coming to a stop. So I assume it was rich. Now that the flow is being properly stopped it would be lean right? So if I were to adjust the carbs somehow to be balanced would that help me start the bike or is it a completely different issue?
Hi, there is way to much going on here to have a chance of diagnosis without seeing it. One thing I can say for sure is that the float valves definitely were not missing. There is no possibility of it running if they were missing. My advice would be to take it to a specialist. It's fantastic you are prepared to have a good yourself (that's how we all started the learn) but I think you may be a bit over your head based on the questions you are asking. If you don't have the option to take it to someone who knows what they are doing a good place to start would be finding videos that explain the function/principles of a carburettor. There is also a realy good book I'd recommend (Motorcycle Fuel Systems Haynes Techbook) Sorry I can't be more helpful.
@@SuperbikeSurgeryTV I don't know what to say. 2 months ago it started. Obviously idled rough. When it ran it needed to idle at 2k rpm or was likely to sputter out and die when returning to idle. Recently I ventured into the carbs and I found 2 of the needles missing and the other two were not connected to the float. It most certainly started and ran for about 5k km. Perhaps it shouldn't have but it did. Sure this is my 1st time in a carb. Not too long ago I didn't even trust myself to remove the throttle cables. So I have never actually been inside the carbs. But right now, I have the time and patience to do it. There's just a popping whenever I try to start. No leaking after I cleaned it. I can also say that it almost starts but the engine doesn't quite get there. So say it did run with 2 floats bowls plugged up and 2 open, would it run rich? Then properly placing all 4 needles afterwards, would it run lean? Sorry if I'm coming off as rude. At the very least, I'm not trying to be. Maybe I lost 2 of the needles, if so, they were not connected to the floats because they don't unhook that easily as far as I've seen. Would it run if there are 4 needles in but not connected to the floats? To me that sounds like it wouldn't. Sorry I'm just trying to pick your brain. I've only taken 1 automotive engineering class as an elective so I am still learning and would like to continue to learn and possibly fail over handing the job over to someone else. Especially with some of the prices of repair shops. Here even something like cleaning goes up per carb and I have 4 so... and i have looked but it seems the shops might not be fully operational around here at this time. Thanks for the advice, your videos are helpful. I'm in this for the experience.
@@ShiningQuasar13 Hi, unfortunately there is just too much to try and un pic here. The float level is critical to the mixture over the entire rev range. As an absolute minimum you are going to need to remove the carbs again and measure float/fuel level and ensure it's consistent over time. Really sorry but I don't have the time to explain in any detail how to do it. Get the book I suggested it'll be a great help.
yamaha r6 2011 - in low rpm bike hesitate to acelerate,stutting,misfire,after 6k rpm aceleration is ok,everythink is ok after 6k rpm .can you tell me where is problem?
Your explanations are excellent. To shorten your videos, edit more. Ruthlessly cut everything that is not content: all the little "ums," the "let me turn this offs," the aborted or repeated sentences. Make the video "choppier" and ironically it will seem smoother, with no loss in content.
It's a difficult one as a lot of people seam to like me waffling on, God knows why 😁. The other problem is that I absolutely detest editing! Thanks for watching and your comment.
Jim, The Video was advertised as a "Quick Fix" but never got to see where the split was or the Fix mate. You intimated the scottoiler but the leak was from the offside so assume it was the black pipe from the throttle body to that daft plastic connector that tends to snap ? I think they should be 30 min quick fix video's with extra Waffle :)
So even I have been facing unstable rpm issue on my interceptor 650 and the RE guys are unable to figure out the root problem. Earlier the bike would even struggle to start up as shown in this video: ua-cam.com/video/_OB5LQAXmd4/v-deo.html Then they replaced the complete throttle body, the bike starts now but the rpm is borderline to stalling and really unstable as shown in this video: ua-cam.com/video/Zfnx2zl9258/v-deo.html Looking at the videos can you maybe suggest a few things that I could try? I'll of course try the wd40 on the vacuum hoses and see for any leaks.
@@crouchingtiger5431 If you Bandit is idling ok but is backfiring, technically an Afterfire (because it's through the exhaust) on a closed throttle deceleration then I guarantee its a lean condition causing it. You almost never get backfiring with a bike due to being over ritch and if you do they run like crap low down and won't idle.
@@SuperbikeSurgeryTV standard jet size is 100 at 160 it's over fueling like mad but it idles perfect and wheelies off the throttle o flat spots just pulls really hard. I really need to put it on a dyno to get the af perfect its rich from the plugs check
@@crouchingtiger5431 The main jet size is completely irrelevant to whether or not you have a lean condition on a closed throttle. The size of the main jet is ony relevant when accelerating with the throttle almost fully open.
Always makes me laugh when people start the sentence with "no offence" 🤣 Thankfully you are in the minority with your opinion. This is my style and who I am. I won't be changing either to suit anyone. Don't like it, don't watch.
Don't watch the man then u plank ... this guy is seriously a talented bike tech ... i'm a Honda master tech & enjoy his vlogs & his waffles, it's his way, so stop winging you idiot, even after 40yrs with Honda I often pick up a bit of info I'm not aware of, so stop pulling the guy to bits, he does these Vlogs in his own time at his own expense... Rant over... time for a brew.😆
Not having a dig at ya mate but had to stop looking at your Video less than 5 minutes in it was so irritating to look and hear you blabbing on about rabbit holes and rain, again not trying to make a Dick of ya 🤷♂️ Please try to get to the point of it . Some constructive criticism 👍
That's my style mate, I'm constantly going off on a tangent. It's a running joke with all my subscribers, has been for years. Thankfully most people enjoy it. If it's not for you then just don't watch.
Extremely useful information and topics to highlight for anyone wanting to dig deeper - no wonder you have patrons!
Your explanation of short and long term fuel trims was fascinating. I had heard the term's before, but I had never seen them explained. Thank's.
for the record, there is quite a big difference between waffling and being thorough for the sake of accuracy, and by the way, your explanation of fuel trim in a way that anybody can understand is the best I've ever heard.......
Very kind words, thank-you.
Fully agreed 👍 😊
Don't worry about keeping it short or waffle, always really interesting 👍
I totally zoned out. Missed the entire thing.
Without going down a rabbit hole, like the new non waffling format.
Fascinating fueling masterclass at the end. I enjoy the deep dive explanations. Nice Fowler’s mug, that’s my local bike dealer.
If I understand you right I believe you just helped me find out what’s wrong with my Yamaha FZ6R. I’ll try this tomorrow morning
Just wanted to say thank you for this video, I had an issue where I may have put diesel into my fuel injected Husqvarna. Spent ages cleaning everything, but no matter what I did it just wouldn’t idle right and got hot fast. Just as I was about to give up I found this and went and checked the rubber sleeve which connects the injection system to the air intake… I had forgotten to tighten the jubilee clips so the fuel air mix was off. A simple tightening and it fired right up and idles steady. Thank you so much as this frustrated me to the point I nearly gave up.
This is AWESOME! But I do have one suggestion: instead of just trying to be less wordy or shorter (I do like how you go into the details) why not just put timestamps in the description of the important points? Some people might miss the info because they have to watch through a 10 min film and can't pick out the answer they need.
I like this guy. He's really organic.
Uhuhuh 🤣
excellent video. will try the brake cleaner trick. got slight misfire on my 1250 bandit. replaced coils, plugs,fuel pump, balanced injectors. injector cleaner. no joy so far. spent££££s.
This guy is amazing, he dignosed the problem on my bike over a video i sent to him. Thank you very much for your help :)
That was great thanks, I've always seen this diagnosed on cars with smoke etc and never seen anything for bikes
Yeah, don't keep it short, do what you need to do..
I use propane - just a common propane torch with a hose from the business end, a small piece of brake pipe can be used to make a nice probe to run around the suspected leak areas.
Very helpful! I was looking for help regarding my 2003 Speed Triple backfiring and your explanation of the vacuum hoses and throttle housing was very helpful. Added bonus was you were working with an F800gs which is my other bike!
I have the same bike did you ever figure it out,
Noggin is a word Jim, great explanation as ever, the time is not a worry. Thx.
Great video. What would suggest looking at for a bike that has recently started stumbling at higher revs? Coils are good, getting spark, both cylinders and pipes getting hot
Yes definitely only 10 min, But within the waffle is good info & a really interesting subject. Thanks.
Does the heat from the engine ever affect the fuel/air mix in the inlet manifolds (evaporating the fuel particles on the way in)? I always wonder why bikes don't have phenolic spacers at the head? Maybe the short distance between carb and head overcomes this. Not that I'm a mechanic or anything, I barely understand what I've just written ;)
Yes sort of, without getting into it too deeply the reason engines needs choke (rich mixture) is because the fuel vapour condenses on the cold manifold wall. So temperature plays a huge part. There are also other things at play, the lower the temperature of the ingested air the tighter the air molecules of packed together. This also has a considerable effect on the air fuel ratio. It's a really deep and interesting subject, at some point I'll go into it in more detail. Thanks for watching :)
Thank you! You just gave me a perfect diagnosis on my spitefull KTM640...
I subscribed for the "waffles." Keep 'em coming.
Always best explained videos,thank you.
Bro you just saved me $700 from my local bike shop. GREAT VID!!!
My fz1 Fazer has something similar to this may check for leaks thanks
A propane torch or map gas torch works well for finding vacuum leaks as well. Just open the torch valve without igniting the gas and aim the torch tip towards the suspected leak, the gas will get sucked into any leaks.
That's a stupid suggestion & highly dangerous.
I get a pop and bang / air noise near the gasket on the exhaust manifold, I think its just blown copper gaskets, but my question is: would a lean mix cause this area to afterfire/ back fire? I dont know why my bike won't start its carburetors and was running okay but backfired now can't really get it to start, it has compression, spark, fuel ... so I'm thinking a lean mix or leak maybe? Whats your thoughts and what could I try
Loved it! Great video... Straight to the point.. No nonsense..
focus on keeping your content complete as it is,we all get distracted - but not all are able to explain or help others
EXTREMELY USEFUL!!!
I’ve got a 14 Yamaha Bolt with aftermarket intake, exhaust and a recently installed tuner. Last summer I started experiencing a sputter on start off to the point it almost dies. Sometimes it even starts acting up at 50 mph down the highway. Any ideas?
I wanted to ask you, let say its not a traditional vacuum leak, but a 100% case of lean mixture from the carb and especially noticeable on decelleration/closing throttle. Where to i fix that lean mix? Is it going richer on the idle circuit OR raising the needle when looking broadly at it? What i also wonder is, does the engine get a little bit leaner going off the throttle downhill than when its standing still idling? Is there a difference there from a CV carb to a FCR?
Wow, lots of questions! It's the idle circuit you need to pay attention to in the case of an afterfire (poping in the exhaust on decerebration, closed throttle) Carb type is irrelevant in respect to what's moving the slide, when the slide is shut the engine is only getting air/fuel from the idle circuit. On decel the engine is getting a larger volume of fuel/air than it would at idle but the ratio is the same. Most bikes that have an afterfire problem due to a lean mixer almost always suffer with idling problems. There is a little bit more to it because some carburettors cut off the fuel supply from the idle circuit on decel but that's another story!
Excellent explaination! Thanks for that. I do have most of the problems from idle to 1/4 throttle. It's pretty annoying and can't really enjoy driving the bike. I have this Mikuni TM40 Flatslide and it probably was configured for a HD, but i've changed most of the parts for that. But i read on some snowmobile forum a guy who said these carbs were prone to wear. And i think mine is worn. Maybe the slide and linkages in there. I think my driving suits better for the orig. CV carb on this bike. The flatslide is too abrupt on the throttle for my bike which has no rubbercusions on the rear hub so it may take its toll on the outputshaft splines also. I think i will just buy a new stock carb and go from there. Thanks again for the super explaination :-)
I have a slightly irregular idle and it occasionally has a little stutter when i accelerate, is that a vacuum leak? And if so what do i call the thing i need to replace?
No mechanic in NZ wants to help me with my hyosung.
Hi There From Canada Mike here I have a Hayabusa 2005 with a problem , I start the bike and and it will only idle at about 2000rpm if I give it throttle it will stick at about 4000 and climes even after I close the throttle ,I'm just changing injectors , have checked vacuum hoses. going to replace map boost pressure sensor all so changed fuel pump.Can you help cant ride it that way .Thanks Michael Anthony
Please tell, what would cause a true backfire then? I mean, when the engine spits back into the carb?
Your hired. With alldo reaspect
Very informative! Thanks. I subscribed right away.
Are you the only person thst explains what quick and fix means when the two words merge
Awesome video!!!
My royal enfield 535 was sitting for years ..i'm trying to get in running..replaced some broken rubber air tubes..cleaned injector ...fuel pump was stuck ..opened and unsieged the stuck motor....checked the tps voltage....the bike will run but is getting stalled (may be due to overheat )and there is no throttle response..like its getting sudden surge (not able to go beyond 2nd gear due to this heavy surge)...any idea would be highly appreciated..
Is it related to fuel pressure because of opening fuel pump motor?
Amazing knowledge in this video. Thanks!!
Good video.
I suggest you do a tech explain video and the simplied quick fix video. You can waffle on in one and just give the primary information in the other.
Hooah
Do KTM use AFR sensors instead of O2 on their production bikes?
There iis nothing wrong with info that takes a while so long as what your going on about is relevant, you seem to know bikes so I’ll listen without bitching! :)
Thanks Mate 👍 😊
This was amazingly helpful. Ur the man.
Now I am hungry for waffles
Very informative thanks.
Helo sir …i ride hayabusa 2018 ….after the recent service of my bike …i just drove her frm service centre to home and I noticed some misfiring frm
Exhaust when the bike is around 3000-5000 rpm while deceleration
I changed fue filter and spark plug as my bike has done 33000 kms plus bt the misfire issue is still there
What is LTFT in your bike ??
More like this please!
I like the waffling!
Bit late with this, so I think I let the bike get low in fuel, added some then she started running lean, wouldn't start so I changed the spark plugs and now it's going but has afterfire and the choke isn't working properly as in its not responding, just staying the same as if it were off, any tips ?
Hard to help without knowing what bike it is? 😁
@@SuperbikeSurgeryTV ah ffs sorry, 1995 suzuki gsx600f 🤣
Almost certainly, blocked pilot circuit in the carbs. Given the age of it the carbs would probably benefit from a good general clean/service.
@@SuperbikeSurgeryTV thank you sir.
Hi, so I have a question if someone can help. So the bike is a 01 yamaha r6 and recently I went in to clean the carbs because it sat for a while and gas would leak. While I was in the carb for the 1st time I noticed that 2 needle valves in the float bowls were missing and the other 2 didn't have the fixture that hooks onto the actual float. Now it doesn't start and I get a popping when I try to start. It had poor gas mileage before and would sputter when coming to a stop. So I assume it was rich. Now that the flow is being properly stopped it would be lean right? So if I were to adjust the carbs somehow to be balanced would that help me start the bike or is it a completely different issue?
Hi, there is way to much going on here to have a chance of diagnosis without seeing it. One thing I can say for sure is that the float valves definitely were not missing. There is no possibility of it running if they were missing.
My advice would be to take it to a specialist. It's fantastic you are prepared to have a good yourself (that's how we all started the learn) but I think you may be a bit over your head based on the questions you are asking. If you don't have the option to take it to someone who knows what they are doing a good place to start would be finding videos that explain the function/principles of a carburettor. There is also a realy good book I'd recommend (Motorcycle Fuel Systems Haynes Techbook) Sorry I can't be more helpful.
@@SuperbikeSurgeryTV I don't know what to say. 2 months ago it started. Obviously idled rough. When it ran it needed to idle at 2k rpm or was likely to sputter out and die when returning to idle. Recently I ventured into the carbs and I found 2 of the needles missing and the other two were not connected to the float. It most certainly started and ran for about 5k km. Perhaps it shouldn't have but it did. Sure this is my 1st time in a carb. Not too long ago I didn't even trust myself to remove the throttle cables. So I have never actually been inside the carbs. But right now, I have the time and patience to do it.
There's just a popping whenever I try to start. No leaking after I cleaned it. I can also say that it almost starts but the engine doesn't quite get there.
So say it did run with 2 floats bowls plugged up and 2 open, would it run rich? Then properly placing all 4 needles afterwards, would it run lean?
Sorry if I'm coming off as rude. At the very least, I'm not trying to be.
Maybe I lost 2 of the needles, if so, they were not connected to the floats because they don't unhook that easily as far as I've seen. Would it run if there are 4 needles in but not connected to the floats? To me that sounds like it wouldn't.
Sorry I'm just trying to pick your brain. I've only taken 1 automotive engineering class as an elective so I am still learning and would like to continue to learn and possibly fail over handing the job over to someone else. Especially with some of the prices of repair shops. Here even something like cleaning goes up per carb and I have 4 so...
and i have looked but it seems the shops might not be fully operational around here at this time.
Thanks for the advice, your videos are helpful. I'm in this for the experience.
@@ShiningQuasar13 Hi, unfortunately there is just too much to try and un pic here. The float level is critical to the mixture over the entire rev range. As an absolute minimum you are going to need to remove the carbs again and measure float/fuel level and ensure it's consistent over time. Really sorry but I don't have the time to explain in any detail how to do it. Get the book I suggested it'll be a great help.
yamaha r6 2011 - in low rpm bike hesitate to acelerate,stutting,misfire,after 6k rpm aceleration is ok,everythink is ok after 6k rpm .can you tell me where is problem?
Ever find the fix?
New subscriber here, nice job mate!
Thanks Dude, welcome aboard :)
Your explanations are excellent. To shorten your videos, edit more. Ruthlessly cut everything that is not content: all the little "ums," the "let me turn this offs," the aborted or repeated sentences. Make the video "choppier" and ironically it will seem smoother, with no loss in content.
It's a difficult one as a lot of people seam to like me waffling on, God knows why 😁. The other problem is that I absolutely detest editing! Thanks for watching and your comment.
Thank you sir for info
From china
More detailed the better
Brilliant
Noggin is a real word. I believe its Saxon or Viking....
Jim, The Video was advertised as a "Quick Fix" but never got to see where the split was or the Fix mate.
You intimated the scottoiler but the leak was from the offside so assume it was the black pipe from the throttle body to that daft plastic connector that tends to snap ?
I think they should be 30 min quick fix video's with extra Waffle :)
There is a part 2 in the works!
Waffle on bud, brilliant vids!
Thanks for the positivity mate it's appreciated 😁
Wow that engine casing is corroded to buggery !
You know when you know if someone looked at my bike and it be fixed on 2 mins. 😅
Yikes!! What an unloved BMW.
waffle away Jim very interesting.
Quit waffling,, lol Excellent excellent trouble shooting, very educational + entertaing video..thank u Ol' Chap.
"that'll be 200 pounds thanks sir"
The only reason you waffle on is because you got so much knowledge
My gsxr 1000 is doing that and seems to backfire and sounds wierd
did you ever fix the problem !? i think i got the same issue with a k4 1000
So even I have been facing unstable rpm issue on my interceptor 650 and the RE guys are unable to figure out the root problem. Earlier the bike would even struggle to start up as shown in this video: ua-cam.com/video/_OB5LQAXmd4/v-deo.html Then they replaced the complete throttle body, the bike starts now but the rpm is borderline to stalling and really unstable as shown in this video: ua-cam.com/video/Zfnx2zl9258/v-deo.html
Looking at the videos can you maybe suggest a few things that I could try? I'll of course try the wd40 on the vacuum hoses and see for any leaks.
We are here to hear you waffle! Haha
Quick fix 😄... proceeds to waffle on again ☹...
Great vid. And I think you got whats called ADHD :)
What a messy stressful waffle! So unclear. I’m now more confused and down your rabbit hole! Thanks…but no thanks. Uffff
My bandits got 160 main jets and backfires like a mother it ain't lean
The main jets have absolutely nothing to do with the fueling on a closed throttle. Whats your point?
@@SuperbikeSurgeryTV that rich carb settings can also cause backfires u never mentioned it just said if it backfires on deceleration its lean
@@crouchingtiger5431 If you Bandit is idling ok but is backfiring, technically an Afterfire (because it's through the exhaust) on a closed throttle deceleration then I guarantee its a lean condition causing it. You almost never get backfiring with a bike due to being over ritch and if you do they run like crap low down and won't idle.
@@SuperbikeSurgeryTV standard jet size is 100 at 160 it's over fueling like mad but it idles perfect and wheelies off the throttle o flat spots just pulls really hard. I really need to put it on a dyno to get the af perfect its rich from the plugs check
@@crouchingtiger5431 The main jet size is completely irrelevant to whether or not you have a lean condition on a closed throttle. The size of the main jet is ony relevant when accelerating with the throttle almost fully open.
decel pop
Always like a waffle 👍
you certainly can waffle on, still it is interesting
Talk about waffling
15
Very good but youre failing on your mission.
No offense, you repeat yourself a million and one times. Stick to the point. Will make your vids much better.
But thanks for the vid, regardless
Always makes me laugh when people start the sentence with "no offence" 🤣 Thankfully you are in the minority with your opinion. This is my style and who I am. I won't be changing either to suit anyone. Don't like it, don't watch.
Don't watch the man then u plank ... this guy is seriously a talented bike tech ... i'm a Honda master tech & enjoy his vlogs & his waffles, it's his way, so stop winging you idiot, even after 40yrs with Honda I often pick up a bit of info I'm not aware of, so stop pulling the guy to bits, he does these Vlogs in his own time at his own expense... Rant over... time for a brew.😆
Not having a dig at ya mate but had to stop looking at your Video less than 5 minutes in it was so irritating to look and hear you blabbing on about rabbit holes and rain, again not trying to make a Dick of ya 🤷♂️
Please try to get to the point of it . Some constructive criticism 👍
That's my style mate, I'm constantly going off on a tangent. It's a running joke with all my subscribers, has been for years. Thankfully most people enjoy it. If it's not for you then just don't watch.