Thanks for pointing out the importance of tramming the Z axis. Avid really should add a step to their assembly instructions to do that after mounting the Z axis. You have motivated me to go measure mine now even though I have not noticed any issues.
Thanks Jim. That is actually what I am trying to do now - and finding that my eccentric nut just does not have enough adjustment to get it right. I suspect that my z plate is skew. So Ill check that out in a bit.
Wow, what a timely video. I just installed the 4hp hiteco yesterday (the one that replaced the bad runout one). Here is what I did. I have a couple machinist levels I leveled the mounting plate, then hauled a surface plate over to the machine and using the levels shimmed the plate 90deg to the world then used a similar tramming tool. Happily it was within a thou on the nod. It went really fast, last time it seemed like I fought for a long time.
Hi Brian, I can't say for sure because I've never compared it to another way, but I'm suspicious of the accuracy of a level compared to a good square and feeler guages. I'm not sure I can tell the difference between 0 and ten though on a level (my eyes aren't that good up close anymore either), and then a short level's error would be magnified over a long 12" Z axis. You should measure it with a good square and tell me if I'm just being paranoid or not 🙂
I have the dual head tramming tool you have...Please don't take this as me trolling you have helped me with my Avid a lot.....BUT if you just use the table as you did you are missing the boat. Get a piece of glass that you can rotate the tramming tool around on. use one side of the tool and begin leveling the piece of glass to that side in all 4 directions. I used pieces of paper to raise the glass until perfectly level with one side. Once level "0" that side...now rotate the other side to where you just zeroed the first side....now "0" that side...then carefully rotate the tramming tool. I think you will see you are still out of tram...I did it like you show and still had poor results then a machinist showed me this method and I have no discrepancy using a 3" cutter head. It took a while to get it right, Want to say an hour or so but it's dead on now. I think there are some videos showing the method I'm talking about. Again I really value you channel so please don't take this wrong I'm only trying to help.
As always I do appreciate feedback, and you bring up a point that I mentioned, but in retrospect was not clear enough. The method you are talking about is for when you have a new machine or spoiboard and don't know if it is parallel to your X and Y travel. This was a retram I was doing and I knew my spoilboard was a reliable surface so I could use it directly as I did. I should also mention the dual indicator tool is not needed to do the method you refer to. A simple one- sided tramming tool like I mentioned can be used to level the glass plate first, then trame the spindle. It's a little less convenient because you have to rotate it side to side to use it, but it's a lot cheaper. Thanks for pointing this out, I wish I would have been more clear in the video.
Just an update, I added some clarification on this in the description secion and also added a link to a good video on the method you mentioned that creates a good reference plane when the top of the machine is still in an unknown state. Thanks again for pointing this out. PS-I like your profile picture. Jack Elam was one of my favorite old actors.
Thanks for pointing out the importance of tramming the Z axis. Avid really should add a step to their assembly instructions to do that after mounting the Z axis. You have motivated me to go measure mine now even though I have not noticed any issues.
Well done. I can use this to improve my setup. Thanks.
I need to get a place where have space for a shop. Looking great Jim
Hi Doug,
Yes, everyone should have a shop 🙂
Thanks Jim. That is actually what I am trying to do now - and finding that my eccentric nut just does not have enough adjustment to get it right. I suspect that my z plate is skew. So Ill check that out in a bit.
Wow, what a timely video. I just installed the 4hp hiteco yesterday (the one that replaced the bad runout one). Here is what I did. I have a couple machinist levels I leveled the mounting plate, then hauled a surface plate over to the machine and using the levels shimmed the plate 90deg to the world then used a similar tramming tool. Happily it was within a thou on the nod. It went really fast, last time it seemed like I fought for a long time.
Hi Brian,
I can't say for sure because I've never compared it to another way, but I'm suspicious of the accuracy of a level compared to a good square and feeler guages. I'm not sure I can tell the difference between 0 and ten though on a level (my eyes aren't that good up close anymore either), and then a short level's error would be magnified over a long 12" Z axis. You should measure it with a good square and tell me if I'm just being paranoid or not 🙂
@@JNWoodworks But, But it's a really good level.. lol
@@bstanga 😉
Howie Boehm sent me. 😊
I have the dual head tramming tool you have...Please don't take this as me trolling you have helped me with my Avid a lot.....BUT if you just use the table as you did you are missing the boat. Get a piece of glass that you can rotate the tramming tool around on. use one side of the tool and begin leveling the piece of glass to that side in all 4 directions. I used pieces of paper to raise the glass until perfectly level with one side. Once level "0" that side...now rotate the other side to where you just zeroed the first side....now "0" that side...then carefully rotate the tramming tool. I think you will see you are still out of tram...I did it like you show and still had poor results then a machinist showed me this method and I have no discrepancy using a 3" cutter head. It took a while to get it right, Want to say an hour or so but it's dead on now. I think there are some videos showing the method I'm talking about. Again I really value you channel so please don't take this wrong I'm only trying to help.
As always I do appreciate feedback, and you bring up a point that I mentioned, but in retrospect was not clear enough. The method you are talking about is for when you have a new machine or spoiboard and don't know if it is parallel to your X and Y travel. This was a retram I was doing and I knew my spoilboard was a reliable surface so I could use it directly as I did.
I should also mention the dual indicator tool is not needed to do the method you refer to. A simple one- sided tramming tool like I mentioned can be used to level the glass plate first, then trame the spindle. It's a little less convenient because you have to rotate it side to side to use it, but it's a lot cheaper.
Thanks for pointing this out, I wish I would have been more clear in the video.
Just an update, I added some clarification on this in the description secion and also added a link to a good video on the method you mentioned that creates a good reference plane when the top of the machine is still in an unknown state. Thanks again for pointing this out.
PS-I like your profile picture. Jack Elam was one of my favorite old actors.