Hey Andrew, I Just wanted to say thanks! I've watched a number of your videos. I haven't touched piston aircraft in around 20 years . You've helped me get spooled back up.
Do you ever see any difference using the flower pot and then cross checking the marks on the starter ring gear? I just wonder if they ever show a difference, and if so, how much. I do this procedure with no A&P license. On my homebuilt. 😁
@0:58 time it takes the spark to travel through the spark plug wires?? lol. No. Advanced timing is to allow for the delay of the flame front to full ignite the fuel mixture. The time from magneto pulse to spark plug sparking is instant.
ring gear and flower pot are 2 different ways, you should not time a magneto to another magneto without knowing the degrees btdc. some continentals have a timing plug.
Can I come and learn from you please , I'm from Nigeria and I like this work , I graduated from technical school , department of automobile , thank you sir
Two comments: My mechanic insists that we remove the #1 spark plug just to check the timing at annual. It's not a big deal, because we have to clean and check the plugs anyway. But, unless I'm an idiot, (maybe I am), EVERY cylinder fires at 25 degrees BTDC. And, it doesn't matter which cylinder you check the timing. The only reason to find top dead center on compression stroke of the #1 cylinder is to INSTALL a magneto. But, you still must set the prop at 25 degrees BTDC before you put the mag in. Once it's in there correctly, it doesn't make a hoot which cylinder is on the compression stroke to check the timing. Now, the only reason I watched this video is to see what value you torqued the magneto hold down clip nuts. As usual, no one torques them to a specific torque value. The Lycoming engine manual doesn't give a specific value except for where it says, "17 to 19 ft lbs, or 204 inch pounds, for a 5/16th bolt, nut, or screw". The reason this is so dear to my heart is, I once had a mechanic over tighten a mag, cracking the flange. It almost killed my wife and I. There NEEDS to be a specific torque for magnetos. Why don't we have one?
In response to your comment “every cylinder fires 25 degrees BTDC,” this is true but it doesn’t fire EVERY time it passes 25 degrees BTDC. Only every other time since one pass is the compression stroke and the other pass is the exhaust stroke. You of course don’t want your spark plug firing on the exhaust stroke so that’s why the magnetos are installed and timed during the compression stroke ie 25 degrees BTDC. Does that address your concern? I may have completely misunderstood what you were asking/saying though.
The only way I can get my magneto to get timed !!! Is when I go past TDC and the impulse couplings snap !!! And I go back to my degree and adjust the magneto . What am I doing wrong ???
Great video and thanks for the links. Don - You can find those torques in Part 1 Section 5 Special Torque ValuesI of Lycoming's SSP-1776-5 toward the bottom of page 1-35 and the bottom of 2-21. You also need to reference SI 1029 as noted at the bottom of the page. The torques aren't in the maintenance manual.
If you're using the TC mark on the starter ring flange to find TC, is it still necessary to feel the air pressure coming out of the spark plug hole on the compression stroke? It seems redundant. From my point of view, if my sole purpose is to install the magneto, it seems like I can just skip the harness & spark plug removal step and just go straight to lining up the TC mark to the crankcase centerline.
No the spark plug removal is absolutely a necessary step. Because the prop spins several times before the number one cylinder reaches Top dead center of the compression stroke. You have to confirm that the #1 cylinder is on its compression stroke or those timing marks on the starting gear mean nothing.
Don't you have to rotate the propeller to snap the impulse coupling before timing the mag with an impuise coupling? I didn't catch that step in the demonstration.
I have never considered that an requirement to time the engine but they are most likely popped every time I time an engine because that is how I tell when the prop is somewhere around top dead center is when they pop then I make the small adjustments from there.
@@aerocrafty6006 It's easy to be moving the prop around and recock the impulse coupling which retards when the points open and screws up the timing you're trying to set.
Hey Andrew, you forgot to tell everyone not to turn the prop before removing the pin from the back of the mag or you will be repairing that mag all over again. Doug
Use a better checklist so you get all the explanations and details in the video. Mag-rite has a great instruction card that can be laminated and used as a checklist, just won’t have all the explanations on it.
Hey Andrew, I Just wanted to say thanks! I've watched a number of your videos. I haven't touched piston aircraft in around 20 years . You've helped me get spooled back up.
Glad you enjoy the videos.
Going for my test tomorrow and mags are truly a pain point, but between this and multiple other great videos I think I'll be ok.
I have my powerplant O&P tomorrow, extremely nervous but this helps relieve some anxiety. Good explanation, thanks man!
Good luck bro. Keep going over those oral questions. Keep them fresh in your mind and you’ll do great.
Great vid Andrew, like the simple approach no fluff BS.
Do you ever see any difference using the flower pot and then cross checking the marks on the starter ring gear? I just wonder if they ever show a difference, and if so, how much. I do this procedure with no A&P license. On my homebuilt. 😁
@0:58 time it takes the spark to travel through the spark plug wires?? lol. No. Advanced timing is to allow for the delay of the flame front to full ignite the fuel mixture. The time from magneto pulse to spark plug sparking is instant.
Good video, but some direct lighting on the engine degree wheel & magnetos would be nice to see exactly what you are doing.
New video WOOOOOOOO
ring gear and flower pot are 2 different ways, you should not time a magneto to another magneto without knowing the degrees btdc. some continentals have a timing plug.
Port Wine is Red.....Port Side is Left......Thats another good one, but opposite your way :).
thanks bro. It helps a lot
Thanks Andrew
Good content
Can I come and learn from you please , I'm from Nigeria and I like this work , I graduated from technical school , department of automobile , thank you sir
Two comments: My mechanic insists that we remove the #1 spark plug just to check the timing at annual. It's not a big deal, because we have to clean and check the plugs anyway. But, unless I'm an idiot, (maybe I am), EVERY cylinder fires at 25 degrees BTDC. And, it doesn't matter which cylinder you check the timing. The only reason to find top dead center on compression stroke of the #1 cylinder is to INSTALL a magneto. But, you still must set the prop at 25 degrees BTDC before you put the mag in. Once it's in there correctly, it doesn't make a hoot which cylinder is on the compression stroke to check the timing. Now, the only reason I watched this video is to see what value you torqued the magneto hold down clip nuts. As usual, no one torques them to a specific torque value. The Lycoming engine manual doesn't give a specific value except for where it says, "17 to 19 ft lbs, or 204 inch pounds, for a 5/16th bolt, nut, or screw". The reason this is so dear to my heart is, I once had a mechanic over tighten a mag, cracking the flange. It almost killed my wife and I. There NEEDS to be a specific torque for magnetos. Why don't we have one?
In response to your comment “every cylinder fires 25 degrees BTDC,” this is true but it doesn’t fire EVERY time it passes 25 degrees BTDC. Only every other time since one pass is the compression stroke and the other pass is the exhaust stroke. You of course don’t want your spark plug firing on the exhaust stroke so that’s why the magnetos are installed and timed during the compression stroke ie 25 degrees BTDC. Does that address your concern? I may have completely misunderstood what you were asking/saying though.
The only way I can get my magneto to get timed !!! Is when I go past TDC and the impulse couplings snap !!! And I go back to my degree and adjust the magneto . What am I doing wrong ???
The engine is timed at assembly. This is timing the magnetos.
Have you got am O235 maintenance manual. I need the Jug nuts torque setting as putting on superior Jugs.
I just looked and thats a negative I do not have one. Sorry man.
Refer the Lycoming Cylinder installation Service Bulletin, that has all the Torque settings and procedures
@@kushlafernando6201 Great thanks
Great video and thanks for the links. Don - You can find those torques in Part 1 Section 5 Special Torque ValuesI of Lycoming's SSP-1776-5 toward the bottom of page 1-35 and the bottom of 2-21. You also need to reference SI 1029 as noted at the bottom of the page. The torques aren't in the maintenance manual.
@@FISHH00KS Thank you. will look that up.
Where did you get the digital flower pot?
aircraft-tool.com/shop/detail.aspx?id=RSK-DX&AspxAutoDetectCookieSupport=1
When exactly did you pull the timing pin out of the left hole. I assume prior to rotating mag to match right one?
Yes. Sorry for not including that detail.
If you're using the TC mark on the starter ring flange to find TC, is it still necessary to feel the air pressure coming out of the spark plug hole on the compression stroke? It seems redundant.
From my point of view, if my sole purpose is to install the magneto, it seems like I can just skip the harness & spark plug removal step and just go straight to lining up the TC mark to the crankcase centerline.
No the spark plug removal is absolutely a necessary step. Because the prop spins several times before the number one cylinder reaches Top dead center of the compression stroke.
You have to confirm that the #1 cylinder is on its compression stroke or those timing marks on the starting gear mean nothing.
@@aerocrafty6006 where did you get the digital prop protractor and adapter
Don't you have to rotate the propeller to snap the impulse coupling before timing the mag with an impuise coupling? I didn't catch that step in the demonstration.
I have never considered that an requirement to time the engine but they are most likely popped every time I time an engine because that is how I tell when the prop is somewhere around top dead center is when they pop then I make the small adjustments from there.
@@aerocrafty6006 It's easy to be moving the prop around and recock the impulse coupling which retards when the points open and screws up the timing you're trying to set.
Hey Andrew, you forgot to tell everyone not to turn the prop before removing the pin from the back of the mag or you will be repairing that mag all over again.
Doug
Never saw him remove the timing pin from the left mag. OOPS! Broken pin.
Yes that is definitely one of the most common mistakes I still make today. I have bent timing pins but haven’t broken any yet.
@@aerocrafty6006 - Did it while in school....youll be taking the sump off and going fishing!
According to the slick/unison manual, if you move the prop with the pin in, you have to disassemble the mag to check for internal damage.
Use a better checklist so you get all the explanations and details in the video. Mag-rite has a great instruction card that can be laminated and used as a checklist, just won’t have all the explanations on it.
Nice...
note lucen los lentes
Remember to K.I.S.S.!
USE the Ring gear markings.
So called "Flower pots" are a waste of time.