Just bought my wife a Creality Ender 3 V3 KE for her birthday. I've been studying up to help her figure more out about it and ran across your channel. Thanks for breaking this stuff down to make it easier to understand! I'm subbing your channel and sending her your vids to help her out.
As someone who’s used Cura since 2020 and had to slice up my files in Meshmixer and my brothers pc sometimes crashing when cutting up files, to be able to have multiple build plates, an intuitive UI and the projects option that actually works, my jaw dropped, you have convinced me to switch from cura to orca. This will save me hours of work in slicing files especially when printing my helmet and props that sometimes have up to 70 parts, I recently printed a Halo Wars 2 M99 Stanchion sniper rifle that was 49 inches long. Oh and I forgot, having the drop down menu of all of your printers with nozzle options automatically and bed setting is a game changer because in cura my brother switched my glass bed to my magnetic bed settings and ruined both the build plate and nozzle and nozzle 0-0
I love Orca Slicer. One thing that took me a few months to notice, was you can auto-arrange individual build plates by clicking the icon next to that plate, and you don't have to auto arrange everything, since that will move parts to other plates
OrcaSlicer is great. You can hook up any Klipper firmware based printer(Neptune 4 series, Ender 3 v3 KE, Vorons, Creality K1 series, etc.) As Frank showed you just enter the IP of the device and you're good to go, the other step is getting your printer's API key, if the web interface your printer has isn't locked down you should be able to generate an API key in the settings tab/page and then enter that in the API Key field when adding your printer. Then you should be able to upload directly to the printer. Not sure the K1 series allows it as they seem to run a custom web interface but I'm sure it's in there somewhere 😅
@@AndrewAHayes late reply but yes. Klipper and OctoPrint use a similar API key system. Not sure if you can start a print directly when using Orca+OctoPrint, but I know you can upload via that method.
Frank, have you thought about doing a series of how-to in depth for Bambu or Orca slicer. These top level overviews are great but going through each button. Calibrating filaments, etc..love these vids. I finally pulled the trigger and bought a X1C.
A very interesting setting, for instance when printing with PETG, or just when you are looking to minimise stringing, is "Avoid crossing walls". Can be useful if printing a visual piece, but struggling with too much stringing. Edit: Congrats on the 1 mil btw!
Rooting your Creality printer makes a lot more sense if you are using Orca Slicer. Since I rooted both my V3 KE, and use Orca, I have seen a big improvements on the print qualities. Another advantage to root is the ability to permanantly set the Z-axis offset on the printer itself. Before rooting, I had to manually adjust the z-axis in the slicer or on the printer it self before each print. Good video!
So I just bought a used K1 a few days ago and this video really helped me get it attached to Orca. Thank you very much Frank. I'd also like to mention that you can find the IP address of the K series in Creality Cloud as well. So you don't really need their slicer software. As long as you have the app on your phone, and your printer is linked to your WiFi and the app. Everything you need is right there for Orca.
I am new to 3D printing. I have a K1 and am using the Creality Slicer. Your video has encouraged me to try Orca slicer. Maybe you could do an indepth video on the calibration within Orca. I am not sure how to tune my K1 so I get the best quality print possible from it.
May not be relevant to many but I have just come across orca and decided to give it a go. I only have one printer, a Sovol SV02 which is controlled by Octoprint. I was able to add the printer by giving it the IP address of the Raspberry Pi and can now control my printer inside of orca rather than having to open a browser instance.
Thank you, thank you. I bought an Ender3 V3 KE and wanted to use Orca Slicer wirelessly from my home computer. Spent most of the day seeing videos saying I needed Octopi, Raspberry pi etc. etc. Just tried your trick with just the IP address then Import the file and it works like a charm!!!
Thank you Frank for your video. I find your way of explaining and going through things is just like me. I have been thinking of switching to this program for a while just waiting for someone easy to explain it. Thanks Frank have a good holiday
Great Video Frank! You got me into 3d printing 2 years ago and I don't regret it for even a second. I recently purchased a Neptune 4 plus for bigger prints such as helmets and props. I already downloaded Orca Slicer and it is so much better than Cura or Prusa. Thank you for the recommendation and all your helpful videos!
Thank you for this. the speed was an issue for me, and this helped a lot. Quality wise, this slicer is giving me significantly better prints than Cura!
Thank You for this. I will be using this with my Neptune 3 Max. I am very appreciative of you especially as you are the one who convinced me to try out 3D printing in the first place. Thanks again and be strong
thanks for this video! I just got my first 3d printer, (Neptune 4 Max, thanks to your review) and from Uncle Jessie's recommendation, I started with OrcaSlicer. I couldn't be more happy.
Thank you for the video, I was on the fence about changing programs, but you convinced me to make the change, especially since I just ordered my second printer. Thank you again for the video and all your other great videos!!
I am so new to all of this 3D printing. I love watching your videos and I am eager to learn. Thanks for your honest opinion on the Orca Slicer. I am wanting to learn how to design my own ideas and be able to print them out. I cannot wait until your next video.
If you are not good modeling or cutting STL files in other programs, like fusion 360. Orca slicer allows you to cut the print and even add connectors, so it will be easier for you the put them together later. 5:25
You don't need to blur your internal network IP's. The Modem IP address is the one you need to blur. And I bet 98 % of people don't know where to find this. Maybe 80%. But I will try Orca Slicer, because I trust you.
I just started using orca today coming from cura. was really impressed on first impression. setup was easy did not take any special tuning and still got better print result than my well tuned cura profile :D. And i was also totally lost as to how to increase speed. I just copied my speeds from cura(generated from a base speed) as it was for each property then tuned from that. I specially liked the scarf joint seam feature.
Nice overview! Testing out the slicer now. I've been using a BeaglcCam to remote access my Ender 3 v2. I was able to connect that interface to Orca the same way you connected your K1/Max. Can't fully send files to the cam via Orca, but saving the file and using the device interface to upload the file works just the same.
Frank, just as an aside, I'm 99% sure that the IP addresses of your printers are "Network Address Translation (NAT). Meaning the internal IP addresses your router assigns are generic and no one outside your house can access them.
Just a heads up your ip is clearly visible for a frame in the video and anyone could easily look up where you live. I did it and so many other people can so please fix the video
@@coolds3970 It doesn't matter since these are internal IP addresses, meaning unless you're connected to his network, you can't do shit with that info (heck, most people probably have devices on their home networks with the exact same IPs..... in fact, I do).
About setting the speed, don't forget to set the correct *Max Volumetric Speed* for your filament. An incorrect or too low value will lower the actual print speed, no matter how high you set it in the Speed tab.
I'd love it if you could do a video on calibrating the speed of the Bambu X1C or P1S to improve print quality. This is where I've been struggling because I'm just not sure how to stabilize the print quality of my new Bambu X1C. I keep getting prints with messy outer walls. Also a video on reducing waste on multi material prints.
Hey man! I just got everything to work with printing straight up from orca with the k1 max. It works beautifully and flawlessly once rooted, just don't forget to update new ip address with the additional fluidd or mainsail number at the end :)
Man, for a second I was so excited, I thought you were going to show how to get upload to work on the K1 Max! lol I was on the edge of my seat and then you said to export and I was so sad. Thanks for the video though!
I am loving your videos and your enthusiasm! It is so contagious! Thank you. So with ORCA, since I am an extreme beginner, you mentioned that ORCA does cutting, does that then eliminate the need for MeshMixer or is MeshMixer a better way to cut an object that does no fit the build volume? Thank you!
I literally just downloaded this the other day for the multi bed feature. I wanted it to add all the project filament weight at once but didn’t know how. Thanks for the help lol
I'm quite new to this, and started learning with Cura, however I feel that I'm getting much better prints and once I know somewhat my way around Orca is just better.
Also in Orca there's a G-Code limiter! Took me forever to find out why my prints were going so slow. Printer settings -> Motion ability -> Advanced -> Emit limits to G-code.
def need more info on getting the k1 to print directly. sounds like that api key is the ticket. changing nothing but the slicer alone gave me better results on my k1. very new to 3dp still so learning as i go!
Unless your printers are in a completely different place and network that required you to do some really weird things and make them publically available in some way the IP adresses are almost certainly "private" IPs (starting with 192.168 typically), meaning they can only be reached from your network and give no information about or access to your network or printers whatsoever.
I’d love to see a video on orientation with several types of model types. It’s difficult many time to figure out how to get a good print when you have models that are detailed or shaped funny with weird edges etc. Also, I would like to understand the new features in Bambu studio where you can do dovetail cuts and pin connectors etc.. I would like to understand of you can make several cuts at once in a model also.
my biggest issues started with orca slicer, ended up with moveing to mirco swiss, new bed etc :) then orca was insane! cr-10 smart. new issue arrived! supports, mostly the distance, as the buttom of the object is messy :( like your videos and guides overall! keep it up!
Nice job! I am busy transferring the settings of my franken-printers to Orca from the other printers. And yeah, this program will probably be the killer of simplify3d - because who is paying for a slicer in 2024? EDIT: Just a note - and this may just be for the K1 and K1 Max - skirt is enabled and the distance is adjacent to the model, making it act like a brim. And you won't find skirts/brim settings in "Support." It's in "Other" as I'm guessing the Support tab is already busy and the skirt/brim settings would make it too long in Support?
so i have to get a new printer my k1 max died ebay spichal but i plan to get a new one from crility your cids are great and your community is great i have ben inspired by you to do my metroid pirme 3 samsus light suit or vara suite havent decided yet cant wait to do this
Hi Frank. I just bought a Creality K1, it’s got all the problems in the first couple of releases fixed, it has a sticker on the inside bottom, giving you all the types of filaments and the settings you should be using, speed, bed temperature, nozzle temperature etc. thank you for this video 😊. Is Orca Slicer free? As Creality print doesn’t seem to allow for different types of support structures, also if I want to rotate the model with the supports, they turn off, or removed. Thank you again, have a great new year. Gary
Frank I see you have a lot of K1 Max's I've heard of issues with nozzles clogging any tips if I were to get one? Need a bigger form factor because I have a big head for helmets 😂
Been loving Orca Slicer, only thing I haven't figured out is how to measure dimensions of prints. Prusa Slicer has a really good measuring tool, haven't found it in Orca though.
Hey great video very informative, I have a question about moving around the objects as sometimes I get off centre and its really hard to get the objects in the centre of the computer again?
I love orcaslicer, only use Prusa slicer these days for multi-material use, or more specifically, for my IDEX printer as I haven't found a way in orcaslicer to add a second extruder and set things like idle temperature.
Thanks for the info, I have a X1C and some Creality printers too. I have logged into the Bambu account and can monitor as well as send files to my X1C. I have not figured out the CR-10 Smart Pro and really dislike the Creality Slicer and Cloud thus I'm using the SD card to print on those printers and know there's a way to wirelessly connect and print to these printers. If I get the Sonic Pad that would add Klipper to the CR-10s and am wondering if that would let me use the Orca slicer to connect to these printers?
Thank you. My son and I are going to start a side hustle to cover our hobie and tax write offs. I plan on upgrading our Creality Ender 3 pro to a Bambu Labs X1C. And I hate Crua and Creality. Lol. Tired of bed leveling/ updating/ readjusting shit after 5 prints.
If I was printing another type of helmet, say a helmet from Halo and my slicer wants to put supports on the inner dome side of the helmet, are you saying I would be able to brush those away? Or keep them there just in case. Great channel and video btw :)
Hey Frank. Thanks so much for another great video! I do have one question. I have a Creality CR-30 and for the life of me, I cannot figure out how to get that printer loaded into Orca. Have you put your Print Mill into Orca yet or are you still using Creality Slicer? If you have put it into Orca, could you point me in the right direction in figuring out how to do that? Thank you again for all you do.
Since you are the only one showing these things while using the same printer, I have a question. I’m using the k1 max with orca. I am not using multiple filaments on 1 print, but how do you change filaments in orca if I start using a different brand than Creality? The drop down only has Creality. I tried adding a new one but it didn’t seem to want to work so I’m a little lost. I’m trying not to mess up the settings I have. Most of the videos I found are how to set up points for switching colors mid print. Not how to use a different brand and have its settings automatically load in to your current printer. I only have 1 k1 max
I like the idea of Orca Slicer but I'm brand new to 3D printing and the JG maker R1 doesn't have a profile, I'm sure over time ill learn to make but still
great video...i am using 2.0 beta and do not see the combination infil within the advanced strength area. Any idea why? Also would love to see another video dealing with custom speed settings cus wow there are a lot of options in there. I have a Neptune Max 3 and would really like to optimize my speed settings where i can cus it doesnt print as fast as the newer MAX 4. So maybe its a double special video for Orca and Elegoo Max 3"s. I will subscribe in the hopes of seeing that video sometime soon-ish. Keep on keepin' on!
I noticed that the time to print the mando helmet was eight hours and a few minutes, and I'm trying to figure out what I'm doing wrong. Orca Slicer, as well as every other slicer software keeps telling me that it's gonna take me three entire days and sometimes an extra 20 plus hours on top of that. If you could help me figure out what i have to do to fix this, I would be everso grateful to you. As always, keep up the good work!
Been using Bambu Studio for 2.5 months, soon I land on P1S manual calibration was painful since it save Factor K on AMS instead of filament like OrcaSlicer done. I'm not going back after using OrcaSlicer, it makes more sense per filament instead of per printer / AMS setting.
Looks like a reskinned PrusaSlicer (which I think it is). Wifi control might be new though. Not sure.. haven't looked into that. Multi-plate looks cool though!
just got the k1 max and could use some help with more detailed settings if you dont mind. im coming from the cr10s so this is a huge upgrade and i prefer orca over creality but the settings seem incorrect in orca for sure. Love the work you're doing thanks.
You didn't mention the calibration tools that are at the top of the program. They're super easy to set up and really useful. But I only have an Ender 3 so I'm not familiar with any of the fancier 3D printing stuff. If someone had the IP to your printer, would they be able to start a print on your printer from anywhere? Would be a funny prank if it was a friend doing it and not malicious.
Needs to be in the same network for this, but you could vpn in and start prints theoretically yes. But by the point you've enabled vpn on your friends network and got their ip address, you might as well just start it manually 😂
hey frank i was looking for a video on how to learn everything in here. you have the best i seen so far. there is some parts i would like some info on. that would be the editing presets the button next to your connect internet button . in there you see basic info gcode multilateral extruder.
I was able to download my timelapse on the K1 max through Orca. think they might have fixed it. also very easy on the android app. Wondering if you know where or know anyone that could make a rear fan cover for the inside rear vent on the K1 Max? Happy new year, much love from my family to yours. Thanks for all you do
Just bought my wife a Creality Ender 3 V3 KE for her birthday. I've been studying up to help her figure more out about it and ran across your channel. Thanks for breaking this stuff down to make it easier to understand! I'm subbing your channel and sending her your vids to help her out.
As someone who’s used Cura since 2020 and had to slice up my files in Meshmixer and my brothers pc sometimes crashing when cutting up files, to be able to have multiple build plates, an intuitive UI and the projects option that actually works, my jaw dropped, you have convinced me to switch from cura to orca. This will save me hours of work in slicing files especially when printing my helmet and props that sometimes have up to 70 parts, I recently printed a Halo Wars 2 M99 Stanchion sniper rifle that was 49 inches long. Oh and I forgot, having the drop down menu of all of your printers with nozzle options automatically and bed setting is a game changer because in cura my brother switched my glass bed to my magnetic bed settings and ruined both the build plate and nozzle and nozzle 0-0
Connecting directly to the K1 is awesome. I just got mine today and I'm already printing thanks to several of your vids. Thanks man!
I love Orca Slicer. One thing that took me a few months to notice, was you can auto-arrange individual build plates by clicking the icon next to that plate, and you don't have to auto arrange everything, since that will move parts to other plates
OrcaSlicer is great. You can hook up any Klipper firmware based printer(Neptune 4 series, Ender 3 v3 KE, Vorons, Creality K1 series, etc.) As Frank showed you just enter the IP of the device and you're good to go, the other step is getting your printer's API key, if the web interface your printer has isn't locked down you should be able to generate an API key in the settings tab/page and then enter that in the API Key field when adding your printer. Then you should be able to upload directly to the printer. Not sure the K1 series allows it as they seem to run a custom web interface but I'm sure it's in there somewhere 😅
Can you use the API key of a printer that is hooked up to Octoprint to send a file from Orca?
@@AndrewAHayes late reply but yes. Klipper and OctoPrint use a similar API key system. Not sure if you can start a print directly when using Orca+OctoPrint, but I know you can upload via that method.
Frank, have you thought about doing a series of how-to in depth for Bambu or Orca slicer. These top level overviews are great but going through each button. Calibrating filaments, etc..love these vids. I finally pulled the trigger and bought a X1C.
Bro u been a life saver. I drive with your vids playing and then when I get home I hop on my slicer and stuff seem so easier to do thanks !
A very interesting setting, for instance when printing with PETG, or just when you are looking to minimise stringing, is "Avoid crossing walls". Can be useful if printing a visual piece, but struggling with too much stringing.
Edit: Congrats on the 1 mil btw!
Rooting your Creality printer makes a lot more sense if you are using Orca Slicer.
Since I rooted both my V3 KE, and use Orca, I have seen a big improvements on the print qualities.
Another advantage to root is the ability to permanantly set the Z-axis offset on the printer itself. Before rooting, I had to manually adjust the z-axis in the slicer or on the printer it self before each print.
Good video!
So I just bought a used K1 a few days ago and this video really helped me get it attached to Orca. Thank you very much Frank. I'd also like to mention that you can find the IP address of the K series in Creality Cloud as well. So you don't really need their slicer software. As long as you have the app on your phone, and your printer is linked to your WiFi and the app. Everything you need is right there for Orca.
I am new to 3D printing. I have a K1 and am using the Creality Slicer. Your video has encouraged me to try Orca slicer. Maybe you could do an indepth video on the calibration within Orca. I am not sure how to tune my K1 so I get the best quality print possible from it.
I got a K1 Max yesterday, and I knew I could get a little more speed out if it. This should help a lot. Thanks.
May not be relevant to many but I have just come across orca and decided to give it a go. I only have one printer, a Sovol SV02 which is controlled by Octoprint. I was able to add the printer by giving it the IP address of the Raspberry Pi and can now control my printer inside of orca rather than having to open a browser instance.
This was super helpful! I've been using Orca for the past few weeks, and I pulled a few tidbits about it out of this video that'll help a lot.
Thank you, thank you. I bought an Ender3 V3 KE and wanted to use Orca Slicer wirelessly from my home computer. Spent most of the day seeing videos saying I needed Octopi, Raspberry pi etc. etc. Just tried your trick with just the IP address then Import the file and it works like a charm!!!
Thank you Frank for your video. I find your way of explaining and going through things is just like me. I have been thinking of switching to this program for a while just waiting for someone easy to explain it. Thanks Frank have a good holiday
Great Video Frank! You got me into 3d printing 2 years ago and I don't regret it for even a second. I recently purchased a Neptune 4 plus for bigger prints such as helmets and props. I already downloaded Orca Slicer and it is so much better than Cura or Prusa. Thank you for the recommendation and all your helpful videos!
I just finished building my new printer yesterday, so I've decided to give Orca a whirl. This was helpful!
Thank you for this. the speed was an issue for me, and this helped a lot. Quality wise, this slicer is giving me significantly better prints than Cura!
Thank You for this. I will be using this with my Neptune 3 Max. I am very appreciative of you especially as you are the one who convinced me to try out 3D printing in the first place.
Thanks again and be strong
thanks for this video! I just got my first 3d printer, (Neptune 4 Max, thanks to your review) and from Uncle Jessie's recommendation, I started with OrcaSlicer. I couldn't be more happy.
Thank you for the video, I was on the fence about changing programs, but you convinced me to make the change, especially since I just ordered my second printer. Thank you again for the video and all your other great videos!!
This was great!!! Very detailed explanation and overview without being overcomplicated. Thanks Frank.
I am so new to all of this 3D printing. I love watching your videos and I am eager to learn. Thanks for your honest opinion on the Orca Slicer. I am wanting to learn how to design my own ideas and be able to print them out. I cannot wait until your next video.
If you are not good modeling or cutting STL files in other programs, like fusion 360. Orca slicer allows you to cut the print and even add connectors, so it will be easier for you the put them together later. 5:25
You don't need to blur your internal network IP's. The Modem IP address is the one you need to blur. And I bet 98 % of people don't know where to find this. Maybe 80%. But I will try Orca Slicer, because I trust you.
I just started using orca today coming from cura. was really impressed on first impression. setup was easy did not take any special tuning and still got better print result than my well tuned cura profile :D. And i was also totally lost as to how to increase speed. I just copied my speeds from cura(generated from a base speed) as it was for each property then tuned from that.
I specially liked the scarf joint seam feature.
Windows is giving me a warning when opening the file. Did you get one?
Painting “out” supports all by itself made watching this video worth it. Thanks
Nice overview! Testing out the slicer now. I've been using a BeaglcCam to remote access my Ender 3 v2. I was able to connect that interface to Orca the same way you connected your K1/Max. Can't fully send files to the cam via Orca, but saving the file and using the device interface to upload the file works just the same.
Frank, just as an aside, I'm 99% sure that the IP addresses of your printers are "Network Address Translation (NAT). Meaning the internal IP addresses your router assigns are generic and no one outside your house can access them.
Just a heads up your ip is clearly visible for a frame in the video and anyone could easily look up where you live. I did it and so many other people can so please fix the video
@@coolds3970 It doesn't matter since these are internal IP addresses, meaning unless you're connected to his network, you can't do shit with that info (heck, most people probably have devices on their home networks with the exact same IPs..... in fact, I do).
I was literally just thinking about getting orca- coming from Cura I’ve heard so much good stuff about orca, can’t wait to watch this !
Same lol
this is such a great video to know for people especially for people like me who are getting a 3d printer for Christmas. U the man Frank 🙂
About setting the speed, don't forget to set the correct *Max Volumetric Speed* for your filament. An incorrect or too low value will lower the actual print speed, no matter how high you set it in the Speed tab.
Hi just wondering if you could tell me what the max volumetric speed setting is please. Thanks x
Thanks for the video, I have now switched to Orca thanks to you!
I'd love it if you could do a video on calibrating the speed of the Bambu X1C or P1S to improve print quality. This is where I've been struggling because I'm just not sure how to stabilize the print quality of my new Bambu X1C. I keep getting prints with messy outer walls. Also a video on reducing waste on multi material prints.
Hey man! I just got everything to work with printing straight up from orca with the k1 max. It works beautifully and flawlessly once rooted, just don't forget to update new ip address with the additional fluidd or mainsail number at the end :)
Arachne was a greek mythology figure who challenged the goddess Athena to a weaving contest. Its the spider sounding pronunciation.
Thank you for this video! I’ve been trying to learn Orca and this was super helpful!
I finally figured out block supports! Thanks!
As always Frank delivers and shows he is a boss.
A master of his craft. Thank you as always for sharing and teaching.
Man, for a second I was so excited, I thought you were going to show how to get upload to work on the K1 Max! lol I was on the edge of my seat and then you said to export and I was so sad. Thanks for the video though!
definitely giving it shot very cool features...adding walls for strength on sword props...very cool tip thanx man
I am loving your videos and your enthusiasm! It is so contagious! Thank you. So with ORCA, since I am an extreme beginner, you mentioned that ORCA does cutting, does that then eliminate the need for MeshMixer or is MeshMixer a better way to cut an object that does no fit the build volume? Thank you!
I literally just downloaded this the other day for the multi bed feature. I wanted it to add all the project filament weight at once but didn’t know how. Thanks for the help lol
thank you so much for this!! this is the first time tree support worked for me !!!!🤩🤩🤩
I'm quite new to this, and started learning with Cura, however I feel that I'm getting much better prints and once I know somewhat my way around Orca is just better.
Also in Orca there's a G-Code limiter! Took me forever to find out why my prints were going so slow.
Printer settings -> Motion ability -> Advanced -> Emit limits to G-code.
Let’s go bro I waited for this a very long time
Yo my man, this helped out a ton! Extremely helpful.
JFC this video helped me to much....thank you. The exclude object @19:08 is so useful, and I had no idea about it.
I just got a Bambu Lab A1.... my girlfriend already hates Frank 😂 She hears his voice constantly. Thanks for the videos bro.
def need more info on getting the k1 to print directly. sounds like that api key is the ticket. changing nothing but the slicer alone gave me better results on my k1. very new to 3dp still so learning as i go!
Unless your printers are in a completely different place and network that required you to do some really weird things and make them publically available in some way the IP adresses are almost certainly "private" IPs (starting with 192.168 typically), meaning they can only be reached from your network and give no information about or access to your network or printers whatsoever.
Good day when frankly built uploads
I’d love to see a video on orientation with several types of model types. It’s difficult many time to figure out how to get a good print when you have models that are detailed or shaped funny with weird edges etc. Also, I would like to understand the new features in Bambu studio where you can do dovetail cuts and pin connectors etc.. I would like to understand of you can make several cuts at once in a model also.
Thanks man saved my life showing this program when ya did ha cheers
Side note with supports if you paint red and select auto it'll put supports everyone except where you didn't want them.
I started with Orca, I love it so far!
i`m using these settings right now on my first helmet ever . deadpool . thanks 😁👌
my biggest issues started with orca slicer, ended up with moveing to mirco swiss, new bed etc :) then orca was insane! cr-10 smart.
new issue arrived! supports, mostly the distance, as the buttom of the object is messy :(
like your videos and guides overall! keep it up!
also no cr-10 smart printer selection :( hardly any old printers
Just wanted to say thank you.
Nice job! I am busy transferring the settings of my franken-printers to Orca from the other printers. And yeah, this program will probably be the killer of simplify3d - because who is paying for a slicer in 2024?
EDIT: Just a note - and this may just be for the K1 and K1 Max - skirt is enabled and the distance is adjacent to the model, making it act like a brim. And you won't find skirts/brim settings in "Support." It's in "Other" as I'm guessing the Support tab is already busy and the skirt/brim settings would make it too long in Support?
Solid. I saw the supports in creality and was disgusted but remembered this video. tree , exported gcode, k1 max is printing..lets see how it goes!
Always helpful videos, started using Orca recently. But still not quite figured how to work best with sonic pad and Cr-10 s pro v2
Thanks Frank keep up the great work mate i look forward to your videos.
Litterly just got my neptune cus you.. and now this video comes out perfect timing.
so i have to get a new printer my k1 max died ebay spichal but i plan to get a new one from crility your cids are great and your community is great i have ben inspired by you to do my metroid pirme 3 samsus light suit or vara suite havent decided yet cant wait to do this
Hi Frank. I just bought a Creality K1, it’s got all the problems in the first couple of releases fixed, it has a sticker on the inside bottom, giving you all the types of filaments and the settings you should be using, speed, bed temperature, nozzle temperature etc. thank you for this video 😊. Is Orca Slicer free? As Creality print doesn’t seem to allow for different types of support structures, also if I want to rotate the model with the supports, they turn off, or removed. Thank you again, have a great new year. Gary
Frank I see you have a lot of K1 Max's I've heard of issues with nozzles clogging any tips if I were to get one? Need a bigger form factor because I have a big head for helmets 😂
Anyway to get your k1 max settings I just got mine I want to make sure it prints well I’m new to the hobby . Coming from a m5
Been loving Orca Slicer, only thing I haven't figured out is how to measure dimensions of prints. Prusa Slicer has a really good measuring tool, haven't found it in Orca though.
Will be added on the next release or just download the nightly build
I was a fan of Superslicer but due to chronic instability issues, I no longer use it. Orca is the way to go. I also got rid of Prusa Slicer and CURA.
Hey great video very informative, I have a question about moving around the objects as sometimes I get off centre and its really hard to get the objects in the centre of the computer again?
I love orcaslicer, only use Prusa slicer these days for multi-material use, or more specifically, for my IDEX printer as I haven't found a way in orcaslicer to add a second extruder and set things like idle temperature.
Thanks for the info, I have a X1C and some Creality printers too. I have logged into the Bambu account and can monitor as well as send files to my X1C. I have not figured out the CR-10 Smart Pro and really dislike the Creality Slicer and Cloud thus I'm using the SD card to print on those printers and know there's a way to wirelessly connect and print to these printers. If I get the Sonic Pad that would add Klipper to the CR-10s and am wondering if that would let me use the Orca slicer to connect to these printers?
Thank you. My son and I are going to start a side hustle to cover our hobie and tax write offs. I plan on upgrading our Creality Ender 3 pro to a Bambu Labs X1C. And I hate Crua and Creality. Lol. Tired of bed leveling/ updating/ readjusting shit after 5 prints.
If I was printing another type of helmet, say a helmet from Halo and my slicer wants to put supports on the inner dome side of the helmet, are you saying I would be able to brush those away? Or keep them there just in case. Great channel and video btw :)
Hey Frank. Thanks so much for another great video! I do have one question. I have a Creality CR-30 and for the life of me, I cannot figure out how to get that printer loaded into Orca. Have you put your Print Mill into Orca yet or are you still using Creality Slicer? If you have put it into Orca, could you point me in the right direction in figuring out how to do that? Thank you again for all you do.
Orca is powerful and all in one !
Arachne (Αράχνη) is the greek word for spider 😉 Great Tutorial !! I didn't knew that Bambu studio was based on Orca slicer
It isnt, Orca is a fork of Bambu Studio.
Since you are the only one showing these things while using the same printer, I have a question. I’m using the k1 max with orca. I am not using multiple filaments on 1 print, but how do you change filaments in orca if I start using a different brand than Creality? The drop down only has Creality. I tried adding a new one but it didn’t seem to want to work so I’m a little lost. I’m trying not to mess up the settings I have. Most of the videos I found are how to set up points for switching colors mid print. Not how to use a different brand and have its settings automatically load in to your current printer. I only have 1 k1 max
I like the idea of Orca Slicer but I'm brand new to 3D printing and the JG maker R1 doesn't have a profile, I'm sure over time ill learn to make but still
Very helpful! Thank you so much! Subscribed.
great video...i am using 2.0 beta and do not see the combination infil within the advanced strength area. Any idea why? Also would love to see another video dealing with custom speed settings cus wow there are a lot of options in there. I have a Neptune Max 3 and would really like to optimize my speed settings where i can cus it doesnt print as fast as the newer MAX 4. So maybe its a double special video for Orca and Elegoo Max 3"s. I will subscribe in the hopes of seeing that video sometime soon-ish. Keep on keepin' on!
Good video man! I didn’t even know Orca was an option for my X1C! I just downloaded it!
DUDE DARK MODE PLLLEEEAAASSSEE!!! Great info btw :))
Switched from cura to orca a few days ago. Never going back
Loved this video. Def going to be downloading this program.
I noticed that the time to print the mando helmet was eight hours and a few minutes, and I'm trying to figure out what I'm doing wrong. Orca Slicer, as well as every other slicer software keeps telling me that it's gonna take me three entire days and sometimes an extra 20 plus hours on top of that. If you could help me figure out what i have to do to fix this, I would be everso grateful to you. As always, keep up the good work!
Been using Bambu Studio for 2.5 months, soon I land on P1S manual calibration was painful since it save Factor K on AMS instead of filament like OrcaSlicer done.
I'm not going back after using OrcaSlicer, it makes more sense per filament instead of per printer / AMS setting.
Looks like a reskinned PrusaSlicer (which I think it is). Wifi control might be new though. Not sure.. haven't looked into that. Multi-plate looks cool though!
just got the k1 max and could use some help with more detailed settings if you dont mind. im coming from the cr10s so this is a huge upgrade and i prefer orca over creality but the settings seem incorrect in orca for sure. Love the work you're doing thanks.
Great information video!!my question is this orca slicer good for me a beginner and my ender 3 v3 se printer???
You didn't mention the calibration tools that are at the top of the program. They're super easy to set up and really useful. But I only have an Ender 3 so I'm not familiar with any of the fancier 3D printing stuff. If someone had the IP to your printer, would they be able to start a print on your printer from anywhere? Would be a funny prank if it was a friend doing it and not malicious.
Needs to be in the same network for this, but you could vpn in and start prints theoretically yes. But by the point you've enabled vpn on your friends network and got their ip address, you might as well just start it manually 😂
hey frank i was looking for a video on how to learn everything in here. you have the best i seen so far. there is some parts i would like some info on. that would be the editing presets the button next to your connect internet button . in there you see basic info gcode multilateral extruder.
Thank you.
I was able to download my timelapse on the K1 max through Orca. think they might have fixed it. also very easy on the android app. Wondering if you know where or know anyone that could make a rear fan cover for the inside rear vent on the K1 Max? Happy new year, much love from my family to yours. Thanks for all you do
Nice, Happy Christmas from Norway :)
Love open source