Trying to FIX an Expensive 1985 Bang & Olufsen CD Player - BeoGram CD50
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- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
- Hi, in this video I attempt to repair a 1985 Bang & Olufsen BeoGram CD50. I purchased it from eBay, it was sold as faulty and untested as the CD loading tray didn't open. Let's see if it can be fixed without any specialist knowledge.
Remember that this is just for entertainment and I am not an expert in these repairs. The processes in the video may not be the best way, the correct way or the safest way to fix these things. I do love fault finding and trying to fix broken things, so I hope that comes across in this 'Trying to FIX' series. Many thanks, Vince.
A tip for you when dealing with stuff like this, VCRs etc. which have gears and rely on proper timing. Get yourself a marker pen and mark the position of the gears relative to each other before disassembly. If you look at those gears you will see they have timing marks (small holes) that should line up with each other when you put it all back together. On some gears the timing marks are small arrows that should point to each other. Something to watch out for in future.
Great tip.
Right on the button!
Beat me to it . as he was removing the cam gear i was going... mark it , MARK IT lol
So frustrating to watch. Unfortunately he couldn't hear me shouting "Nooooo! Don't take it apart until you've marked the timing!" Seriously, has he never dismantled an optical mech before?
True about the timing marks...he still did a good job by trial and error, he did not give up and figured it all out.
The mechanism is bought in from Aiwa but the circuitry design for the sound is done in house by B&O, I used to build CD players at Arcam & they used Sony mechanisms but again the circuitry was designed in house by Arcam I used to have a B&O 5500 system with RL65 speakers.
Wow 1985 and cds are still selling. The thing that amazes me is people are buying vinyl again roflol.
Fantastic fix, as always.
Loved this fix great i need tape deck fixing for a Technics rs-dv280 stops and starts by sits self or could be very old tapes
Nice one Vince thank you
I love seeing vintage gear brought back from the dead. My question about this unit is: does it read cd-r's and cd-rw's?
I ask because I had a 1988 Fisher cd changer that wouldn't read cd-r's. I wonder if mine was just a fluke or if other older units have the same issue.
Nice! I was born in 85👌
This was back when all electronics from B&O were hand-soldered - back when the company was widely known for its good quality. Nowadays that's definitely not the case.
Tray timing? Have you checked for timing marks on gears?
I have a question. Does anyone know why this co has their machines with discs up instead of down?
Vince, you made my day! I am the original owner of this B&O CD player along with the matching Beocord cassette tape player, Beomaster AM/FM radio/amp and the Beomaster remote. I even have the amazing Beolab Penta speakers. The entire system has been in perfect working order. However, some months ago the CD player stopped working. As you discovered in your CD player, the loading tray in mine kept going in and out, in and out and wouldn't play the CD. Thanks to you, I fiddled with that little micro-switch on the loading door and cleaned the CD sensor. It totally fixed the issue I was having and plays good as new again. You saved me tons of time and likely hundreds of dollars in repair costs had I taken it to someone who could work on my CD player (if I could even find such a person in Seattle). I didn't even have to do any disassembly since your video pointed me to the likely cause of the problem. So, thank you once again.
Excellent news Bill, thanks for the message and well done on fixing it :-)
If you keep all the B&O products you repair, i would love a video from you, where you give an overview of your collection
same!
same
Also same
Me too
I also!
as soon as you took off the gears, and moved them individually, I yelled "Noo, you pushed it all out of alignment,...." - You needed to take the cogs back off, and reposition them properly, and not adjust the screw on the back - as you'll be putting strain on the plastics of the tray..
I'd expect it to fail at some point tbh....
Nice try otherwise though :) - just need to be more careful with the alignment of those...
I usually put the tray in the fully-out/ejected position, and reposition the cogs correctly for that, then manually wheel them in (using the one the belt is attached to) and watch for everything being aligned properly before reassembly (switches and all)
Glad you (kinda) got it working properly though! :)
Can be fixed..there are markers
@@kurtsoderberg Indeed, some times arrows, some times pin holes you line up, some times they are keyed to the rod/pin etc...
easiest way is to mark before removal
Me too - I thought it necessary to go back to video footage showing the initial relative position of the large wheel with the asymmetric top layer vs the door that swings in and out.
Are you certain he didn't get it correctly aligned? I would think that the lifting mechanism, position of the disc, and switches would all be off otherwise. And it seemed like that piece that had the adjustment screw was already bent (probably because someone pressed real hard on it trying to get the screw to adjust).
@@pe1dnn It was a boneheaded move not to mark the gears, but the screw was to replace a seized screw that already existed for adjustment. And furthermore, the piece was bent, likely because the previous person probably applied too much pressure when trying to adjust the seized screw.
All gear wheels etc have timing marks, do not rely on a marker pen as sometimes timing gears jump due to the fault. There are usually "V" marks, dots, holes drilled etc that will all line up, so when taking things apart note where the timing marks are close to and align them all when you put t back, sometimes it requires the machine to be in a set position before you align them. You can get by with common sense sometimes, other times you need the service manual. So look for timing marks before you take things off.
There appears to be a slot in the metal chassis under the large gear, which looks to correspond with the large hole in that gear. That might be an indexing hole, slide a thin tool to line up, gear aligned.
The tip off was the clacking after the TOC was attempted to be read, then ejection due to being out of battery.
Yeah, used to fix the things for a living, back before they became disposable.
@1:04:02 The 16:1 almost certainly refers to track 16 index 1. The CD format includes sub-tracks called indexes. This was rarely taken advantage of in commercial CDs so players soon dropped the feature, therefore most people are ignorant of the concept. Generally, pre-roll on a track is index 0 which often shows as a negative time on many players. Players always start at index 1 when you jump to a track but will play through index 0 when the previous track ends. The whole point of the index system was to support jumping within a track to things like different "movements" in an orchestral piece. i.e. A long four-movement orchestral track might have an index 1, 2, 3, and 4 (as well as the aforementioned index 0).
In a practical sense, index 0 was usually either blank/quiet time between tracks or the bulk of the fade between tracks on albums where one track fades into the next one. The first track would "end" at the beginning of a fade between tracks, then index 0 of the next track would contain the bulk of the fade (and the player would count from some negative time and move towards zero), and lastly index 1 would start (0:00) at the end of the fade. Hope that explanation makes sense.
I would agree. My very first Sony CD player in 1987 had not only Index shown on the display, but had buttons to jump from track to track, and buttons to jump from index to index mark within each track. While it was a good idea, I don't think any CD publshers ever included Index markers.
My 86 Marantz cd had those “never used commercially” indez functions.
I came on here to say the same thing (only it wouldn't have been as comprehensive as your reply).
Indexes used mostly for classical music!
@@hotjazzbaby I remember Aerosmith's Pump used indices. "Janie's Got a Gun" was index 2, but index 1 of that track was "Water Song", a short little preamble to the song. I thought the indexing feature was cool, sucks that manufacturers dropped it.
Nice work! I fixed up one of these a few years back and what an adventure! You don't strictly need to mess around with the adjustment screw at the back (altho I suspect this is the proper way to re-adjust it). Rather the main cog in your video is misaligned with the tray by one or more teeth. Due to the complex nature of the loading mechanism it needs to be perfectly aligned with the tray to close and clamp properly. Otherwise it'll just spit out the disc again.
Please also note that it says "Load" in the front of the tray. This is meant indicate a pressure point (or even emulate a button) as you push in the tray to close it.
The paint inside the top cover was indeed applied at the factory to provide shielding. It's applied to the bottom of the outer aluminium sheet through a protrusion in the plastic. You will notice a spring mechanism on the left side of the CD transport. This interfaces with the paint to ground when the case is closed, and you will normally see some wear on the paint at the contact point from the spring tension. Supposedly this type of paint was incredibly expensive back in the days.
Quality comment right here.
Vince, mate! Today i successfully soldered in my first QFN48 pkg chip. As we as couple of 0201 caps. Wow. So smarrr! Tinyful! But your videos gave me courage finally. And you know what??? THE BLOODY THING (tablet that lost sound due to alc5640 failure - burned dot on the old chip) WORKS AND SOUNDS FINE!
5:50 that paint is conductive and provides EMI protection to the sensitive parts inside the unit. It is usually grounded through some metal part (i.e spring coil) that comes in touch to it when assembled.
Close, but in this case it’s primarily , to limit EMC emissions from the player affecting other devices.
@@crcomments8509 Yes, the protection works both ways.
Thats what I suspected it was as well. It looks like conductive paint. A simple continuity test on a meter would prove that if in doubt.
Beautiful job mate! I had a B & O tangent tracking turntable from the same series years ago that I had to troubleshoot in a similar fashion. I remember the joy I experienced when I figured out all the adjustments and microswitch bits before I got it to function Good job!
Another one purchased from us on eBay! Sorry about the fly. I must've sealed it in with the bubble wrap when it went on the shelf prior to being listed... 🤦🏼♂️
Were you also the sellers of the B&O cassette deck and tuner/amplifier also repaired on this channel...?
@@RWL2012 The BeoCord 5500 yes... not the BeoMaster 1900 though
You get locktite in different colours. I think the colour was coded for strength.
Blue is for medium, green is for set screws and wicking applications, purple is for low strength, red is for high strength and you usually need a torch to break it.
@@decfairlight3228 Thanks :) It has been ages since i used it. Think i had blue in most cases.
@@decfairlight3228 Which one is for slip fit sleeves and bearings? The green?
What a gorgeous machine. A Bang and Olufsen classic for £59!?? Amazing work. :-)
Wow. I've not seen this unit before (the B&O players I remember were Philips units) but it seems this is just a direct clone of an Aiwa midi-system CD player, with the same DAC and transport.
That makes it pretty low-end really. Aiwa was reasonable enough but very much a second-tier Japanese outfit, and it doesn't really look as if B&O did much other than make the thing look pretty.
That said it's not as if this was rare. The hifi brands had a tendency to profiteer when it came to CD players. The Cyrus dAD1, which was marketed as a premium product, had a personal stereo mechanism inside it, which is cynical in the extreme.
Fact us, most CD players sound the same, and I say that as a hifi fan. Some of the early Philips units have a particular chipset (TDA1541) which sound different (higher distortion) which is liked by some, but I find it to be coarse-sounding.
@@StillCloser Pretty much 🤣 I bet all the Aiwa DX-1200s out there are long since scrapped, their insides gutted to fix up these B&O players!
I love these B&O videos. I live in Denmark, and when i grew up, i used to see these products at friends houses. Friends with RICH parents. They we're unobtainable for most people. So fun seeing how they're all put together. Thanks. I hope you keep them. :o)
It was mainly for rich people who were too dumb to understand technology. Artists who drove a Saab because no one else did and they could tell themselves how special they were.
Underneath the B&O CD50 was nothing but Aiwa components, and for the model X that followed the CD50 they used Philips components.
I should think that the paint over the cd mechanism is some sort of rf shield, like ‘mu metal' is used on some volume controls and motors in cassette decks.
Thanks for the info Andrew :-)
@@Mymatevince @ 39:48 you can see the spring (bent up wire) on the Left that contacts the shielding paint when it's assembled
@@gordonp6353 Oh yes, I remember seeing that spring....now I know what it is for. Thank you 😊
Ahh right, i guessed it was either a heat shielding paint or maybe even anti reflective paint with the cd being upside down
I hate belt goop. So hard to clean.
Me and my missus have missed you. It's been a looong week without any new videos from you. Thanks for uploading
I call you know My Mate Human Johnson
And what a great track to end the video on, ride of the valkaries.. never seen a cd player with a tray eject calibration screw! trust B&O - they make fantastic stuff :)
That would have wound up on my pile of disassembled failures because I have no patience. That's why I have a whole room in my house of failed electronic repairs. Cheers on the great job!
My rule when I get frustrated is to walk away, take a break and come back later. Usually when I return to the job I figure out my mistake right away.
“Sunny Side Up” is so appropriate for that disc mechanism.
I had the same problem with a cd player from B&O, a different model, but almost the same, and I have found out that room light is in interference with the IR gate that recognizes the disc
g`day vince you just made my day vince appreciate the upload ..... now time to enjoy
Excellent repair Vince =D I like that manual adjustment there to get the front panel perfectly aligned! A precision piece of kit!
Thank you Chris, yes that front panel alignment is lovely :-)
I love B&O devices, they were the top end of the electronics market and out of reach for 99.9% of the population. I was lucky my grandfather spent a few years in Denmark in the 70's and fell in love with them then and refused to have any other devices if a B&O one was available. The sound, quality, design and pure gadgetry of them back then was so far beyond anything else and your video's stand as testament to how good they are even today.
Keep the video's coming my friend. They are both entertaining and informative.
B&O is all about design, integration and ease of use. They were decades ahead of the competition in the 70'es and 80'es. Today the competition has caught up and B&O struggles to even make earnings.
I remember they had 2 lines of CRT television lines when my dad baught a new television. I went to school with a friend whos dad had a B&O only Store, and we were talking about why they looked exactly alike, and the specs was about the same but the top line was roughly double the price. The big line cost was back then roughly 14.000,- dkr and the "cheap" one was about 8.000,- dkr so I remember asking why the big difference in price as they were aparently almost the same televission. The cheap line was actually a Phillips design made for B&O wich just got a B&O mod with their IR controller and a B&O chassis and speaker design which has allways been top quality compared to everything else. The top line was designed and produced in Denmark with the same Phillips CRT devices, but the CRT's was all handpicked and tested in Struer. They returned about 50% of the CRT's back to Phillips because they didn't meet the quality check.
I was back in 1981 at the age of 14 in job practician in a small radio and television repair shop, and I remember the owner showed me a top line Beomaster 8000 which was in for repair. Inside the device he just had to lift up a multi pin connector chord, turn it 90 degree and pluck it in again. Then turn the unit on and it would provide error codes in the display what was wrong. Thats 40 years ago they were that far in providing build in diagnostic systems.
But despite all this B&O was never about delivering top of the line music experience for the enthusiasts. It was about delivering good quality music and vision quality in a top of the line design and integrate it all over the house with their link system in one wireless controller for those that like designer stuff and have the money to pay for it. To be honest most of B&O sound devices is mediocre to "good" at the best, soundvise. But the devices are super high quality build.
It is kinda insane today, a B&O Flatscreen cost 70.000,- dkr (little over 10.000 $) they even offer 10.000 for your old flatscreen in denmark if you buy a new B&O flatscreen. That is just overprice for the design, as a top model Samsung or LG provides at least the same viewing quality and the same integration with todays wireless solutions
The paint looks like RF shielding to me. I use it inside electric guitar bodies to shield the electrics.
You’re not far off. For the paint to have been (proper) RF shielding, it would need to be connected to chassis ground.
The purpose of the paint, is to absorb stray laser light being reflected by the CD etc.
---
I just had another go at the service manual. It seems that I failed (🤦♂️) to notice a long grounding spring mounted on the bottom left tray bracket. You can see it easily with Vinces left hand behind it at 9:15 in the video. So I guess it serves TWO purposes then. (I hate it when I realize I got something wrong, but at least it helps to keep my ego in check. ☺️)
I must compliment you on having the patience to put it together and take it apart over and over ... Not having enough knowledge myself I have dismantled many things and put them back together again and again ... You have inspired me to continue practicing patience ...you are gifted... You are talented as I know only god could have given you such enthusiasm to reach the ultimate goal of success ... Blessing to you and your family and please continue to bring light to us amature repairmen... Raul... PS would like to meet you someday and shake your hand and get your autograph ...
Weird
I think you misaligned the gears.
it works .... doesn't it ?
I have a 1968 beogram 1000 (think that's it's model) still got the guarantee slips.... it was over 200 odd quid back then! It's still going today and it's what I use as my amp and radio.....However the turntable is long dead due to unable to replace the stylus with the correct needle (need an sp30 I think but can only get an sp90 or something) and the motor died a decade ago. But still....the amp is still going today!
very strange i have repaired a few of these and its always been a sp6/7 or a sp14 never seen that specific model with a sp30
@@johnsellers4994 i may of got the needle model wrong due to memory. But pretty sure... the cartridge pointy nose is not see through but black if that helps.
@@orderofmagnitude-TPATP has the needle ever been replaced to your knowledge as the orginals are a silver colour and should say sp6-7 15u NOS on it also what is the issue with the needle is it broken or could it just need repointing which is a lot cheaper than getting the needle and cartridge
@@johnsellers4994 no the original was black (as in the pointy tip bit). This is from 1968 mind. I accidentally caught the needle on my sleeve! - ordered a replacement but all they had was the cartridge with the see through / silver colour pointy tip bit. It fits - but the sound quality is markedly far worse with a horrible ground noise issue. I even bought a second hand turntable hopin they had original needle only to find they were selling it because all they had was the samw replacement i had....sigh....
@@orderofmagnitude-TPATP just had a look at the user manual and as i thought the cartridge is a sp14 for that model the sound your hearing can be cause by many things the most common ones are dirty stylus or record or not correctly calibrated arm take a look at the manuel on beomanuels website it will tell you all you need to know and is a great free resource
Some people spend hours debugging a device. You found a bug straight away!
Ba-dum tsssssss
Not sure if you are aware most mechanical electronics, Eg: VRC's, Tape/Cassette Decks, Camcorders, CD players, Dubbing Equipment and some DVD Players all should have their cogs, moving parts set with holes, dimples arrows Etc "Watch a VCR Alignment Video to get the Gist of it", So that they all can be aligned to a home or common final assembly Position, ASPU I dropped a like..
You never gave up...even when it looked lost
This video helped my wife and I to repair my late father's Beogram CD 50 and it works brilliantly now! Thank you so much for making this video Vince!!
This was a real cringefest to watch and I was quite sure you won't suceed after ruining the timing, but, well, sometimes persistence brings success - fortis Fortuna adiuvat. We've been disassembling PC CD drives with the kids all the time, so in the beginning I had real trouble comprehending what you're doing. But in your defense it must be said that this CD player is a real abomination, never have seen anything similar. Generally the drive assembly is quite easily taken out as a whole and serviced there. But, well, these were really early years of CD.
As a rule of a thumb Loctite in fine machinery tells you there is some precise setting involved (which is quite probable not to suceed home with your instruments - like screws on laser heads or - my case - prisms of projector), and should be avoided undoing at all costs. Here it was sadly impossible to replace the belt without tampering with it, which is the sign of bad design.
Omg. I was so stressed out at first however, i knew you would fix it. This unit looks like a record player. Good old cd player. I am surprised laser still working. Maybe the original owner used it slightly? Anyways, always a fantastic fabulous video. Keep them coming !!!
Hi Vince, great video. Any chance we can see all the bang & olufsen stuff you have working together. Or maybe you don't have them anymore?
I saw you removing the big gear then moving the small gear underneath and thought, hmmm you better watch out for that.
Fixed! I had to wait a week for the belt to come from Portugal but all sorted thanks to Vince and this excellent video. Most important thing for me was to set the man timing cog in the right position, i took lots of photos of the timing cog in various positions ie: drawer fully closed, fully open and closed with the clamp raised (important), cleaned the laser with isopropyl and general clean up inside with contact cleaner too and now the player works like a dream and sounds surprisingly good!
This model was so bad B&O gave me the later model even out of guarantee period F of C!
Missed ya m8
OMG thank you, i have always wondered what those holes are for on my crimps and amount of times I've bent them using the wire cutters for bolts
Really enjoyed your video on what is a very dry subject thanks.
normally there is obvius marks to align properly position sensitive gears. did you find some marks?
some times the holes in the gear wheels are a good indication of position or to get to other parts of the mechanics..
those players were made by philips. I was dealer of them, and repaired them.
I got a technics sl-p115 from 1986 works a wonder got It with the matching stereo for twenty bucks
Another great video.
A gray beard tip you can take or leave. On the screw that you replaced, We used to back off a half a turn place a drop of clear nail polish on the threads and replace it at the proper setting to keep it from backing off. We did this often in electronics anytime it called for something less than locktite.
the metal part can be bended for fine adjustment i guess ?
I always mark the shaft position and the position of rotation on gears and cams before removing them. Especially ones that are not keyed. The number of problems I have had in the past with gearing mechanisms 😭 I always take a picture and mark them. I really enjoyed the video. Love all your B&O repair videos.
For qualified servicemen only.
In today's hysterical world they'd send you to prison for mentioning that on any product.
God I miss the 80's, when people were still normal, music was great, houses were affordable, China was behind a big wall, we all had great fun and no one had a mobile phone.
I remember the 80s too, the rampant HIV, homophobia, and racism, clothes- and hair-fashion designed seemingly by a colorblind maniac, and expensive telecom monopolies.
Yeah, don't kid yourself, the 80s were absolute garbage compared to current day.
well it is sexist... it was later changed to "qualified service personnel"
Love your videos Vince..... you say you're not an expert in this kind of repair but from your videos, you do a bang good job....
You have a good grasp of the mechanicals and this shows in this video... these old systems often relied on quite complex mechanics to do their job....A VHS recorder for example is horendous to resolve a loading problem, a million and one things to think about and you can't see half of it........
Keep going Vince......
Lovely Work Vince and a Lovely CD Player !! Ya Got'a Love CD Mechs he he. Regards mike.
On a CD the TOC, table of content is at the centermost part of the disc. The laser carrier needs to travel to an end point and then out to where the standard say the TOC is when you put in a CD. On most players the CD does not spin until the carrier have reached the endpoint microswitch
Thanks for your informative videos! As several others have pointed out, your patience and attention to detail in the process of finding the fault is important. I also like that you do it without advanced and expensive equipment and tools. You show that everyone can really do it at home and that is inspiring!
Great video ! great educational value, btw.. nice classical (best of) collection cd, what's the title of this one ?
Painted bit might be anti reflective paint, as the laser is pointing down it’ll stop any reflections from the disc bouncing off the case and back towards the disc?
Nah, it's to provide additional shielding.
Any gears that operate microswitches, sliders, cams etc... must be marked with other gears in a known position or problems like this will happen far too often. Service manuals (if available) may show an alignment procedure which is also worth checking before disassembly.
In my opinion, those gears are still out of alignment which may now be under stress. Having to adjust other things to compensate is not the answer.
There are window holes on the programmable cog that you misaligned. There should be some kind of markings or in worst case the holes should point to other cogs. The switches should be engaged on the most open state, on most closed state and when the disc holder is engaged try to adjust programmable cog under those rules and it will work perfectly without those mods you did.
You just need a decent old school amp and vinyl player to go with it now
Ambient lights can affect photo sensors. Always cover the sensors with black cloth, or reassemble the enclosure.
Good point
Great video Vince.
First person to view ohhh
I'm at 27:20 and Vince wants to close it up but the videos an hour so things don't go well
You did well, whereas if it was me, it would be gutted and in the bin, so I take my hat off to you and say thanks for
sharing information and skill in seeing it though to the end, one less item for land fill :)
Definitely think you should stack up all the B&O gear and make a video of it
I like your alternative method for removing circlips. I still use the standard method, which is to loosen it with too much force, causing it to ping off and flying across fhe room. I always thought two hours on your hands and knees swearing like a Trooper trying to find it on rhe carpet was mandatory, but i always learn aomething new on your channel
😂👍
Fun fact. The archetypical danish design in B&O products is actually british.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/David_Lewis_(designer)
CD's would have been a pretty new thing when that was made. Just goes to show that things were made to last back in the day.
Well, B&O were high-end luxury products.
Granted, they had their own share of lemons in their line-up...
CDs and CD players had been on the market for 3 years, and while still around a decade until they became more mainstream, they had already improved over the very early models.
Word comparison of the day - Kitchen Roll (England) - Paper Towel (United States)
The front that you're trying to align, the lid that is being closed when a disc in loaded so to speak, can be adjusted by loosening a screw that holds the black rail that operates the opening and closing of that lid. The screw is located somewhere down the middle of the rail, fastened to the bottom of the unit. The bracket has a adjustment slot in it. Be careful though, as I found out that mine broke in two as I over-tightened it all. The bracket is made of plastic...The screw is located somewhere at approximately the range of the yellow wire that runs from the transformer.
These are nice machines Vince nice one
Good job, I was worried about the clicky sounds but it looks ok, and yeah take a pic of the gears or mark them with a sharpie before taking them apart, especially if they are keyed to a sensor
Try to fix a hole house cuz this man destroyed EVERYTHING
Burr-Brown technologies are still used by TEAC. I have an A-H01 with their PCM5102 chipset. Amazing quality.!! Well done on your vids. If only I filmed my fixes over the years..!!
I bought a broken CD50 at Goodwill in December 2018 for $19.99 and have yet to troubleshoot it :P
This video has given me new inspiration to get it fixed!
you forgot thread locker on the adjustment screw
Crikey, B&O. Back in he late 80s I had a friend who was involved in theatre, much older than myself and quite a wealthy chap. At the time I was 27, I had a Rega turntable, a rotel amp and a pair of Monitor Audio loudspeakers, at the time they weren't cheap, but not ridiculously expensive.
When my friend invited me to his place to listen to his B&0 system I jumped at the chance, it was the most futuristic , stylish set up I have ever seen, the build quality was amazing, I cant remember how much it cost, but he did tell me and I remember thinking it cost several times the price of my system and couldnt wait to hear it, amazingly and disappointly it sounded very bland, not in the same class as mine sonically.
I felt obliged to tell my friend this and to my suprise he agreed and said ''Looks god though doesnt it''. He said to follow him into the main living room of his house and on the sideboard was what we used to call a 'music centre', a single unit with turntable, tuner, cassette and amplifer all built in.
He said 'And thats why when I listen to music I listen to it on this, sounds better''. I remember the name of the music centre was SAKAI, not AKAI, and he was right, it sounded far better than the B&0
Really intresting the build quality is very good on these machines apart from small things. 🙂
Nr 1112 like. Love from Sweden
A video from my favourite youtuber
,perfect gift for my birthday.
Thought you might be interested in this
"Technically, the CD 50 was a Japanese machine. The cabinet and control system were B&O, but the playback mechanism and electronics were all mounted in a separate and imported subchassis. The manufacturer was never disclosed, though input from the likes of Aiwa, Matsushita and Yamaha is clear upon inspection".
I think later versions - 5500 - through 7000 had a fair bit of Phillips.
B&O had a lot of collaboration with other manufactures especially on some of their 80's 90's TV's - I imagine other makers did as well.
I have the later CD 7000, It goes through belts fairly quickly but they are pretty easy to change (if you have 5 hands that is) 🤣🤣😂😂🤣🤣
Love these videos - thank you.
Bang & Olufsson attempted to get in the cell phone market, but they got going too late; imagine a cell phone producer, that build their device with access to repairs in mind? 🦄
Vince that is one classy looking cd player, very nice.
Now I can see why B&O costs the earth, really interesting video Vince.. Thank You
Today it is PHILIPS rubbish. See my comment. I have one from the 60s still goin today!
Vince, last week you helped me fix a Beocord 5500, and now you are here again to help with my CD 50! I used your video to help take mine apart - I had the same belt issue, plus a totally dislodged disc holder. Everything fixed and working now.
I had one recently and you can mesh the loading belt through the gears and hook it on the motor .. very rough way to do it but it doesn't involve removing the gears !!.... And the cd goes in label side down.
only if you exactly know what you are doing, you can make shortcuts....
@@projekten6497 I really do know what I'm doing !!.... I have worked as a tech for Panasonic for nearly 30 years .....
Any time you have gears a cam and switches you have to mark exactly where they are and what they are relative to each other.Because if you get it wrong when you rebuild the results can be catastrophic. Do it on on a valve cam in a car engine Boom!!! 💥 Love your show ,just found it and am loving it as I'm an admirer of anything " Heath Robinson."😊
@My Mate VINCE >>> Regarding the end of the video when you start playing _"Flight of the Valkyrie"._
WHENEVER I hear that music, my mind ALWAYS goes back to the 1979 motion picture *APOCALYPSE NOW.* 😉
From my parents I have a B&O portable Beocord 2000 Reel-2-Reel deck and a Record player from 1968. Lovely equipment, but it can be difficult to service and parts are a problem now. However if you have the manuals (Which I do) they had full wiring diagrams. I am sure that CD player came with a remote. Often their remotes are very solid metal objects.
I seem to remember that there were only, I think, just two manufacturers of CD transports, one being Sony the other I cannot remember (maybe Panasonic?) but they were both Japanese. B&O would have controlled the QA and QC and would have designed the decoding electronics as witnessed by the use of a high quality D to A converter. The little screw that you 'graunched' I would have expected to have had an allan key head? B&O, always worth saving! Well done!
Next time use simple marker on cogs
Mrs Richards: "I paid for a room with a view !"
Basil: (pointing to the lovely view) "That is Torquay, Madam."
Mrs Richards: "It's not good enough!"
Basil: "May I ask what you were expecting to see out of a Torquay hotel bedroom window? Sydney Opera House, perhaps? the Hanging Gardens of Babylon? Herds of wildebeest sweeping majestically past?..."
Mrs Richards: "Don't be silly! I expect to be able to see the sea!"
Basil: "You can see the sea, it's over there between the land and the sky."
Mrs Richards: "I'm not satisfied. But I shall stay. But I expect a reduction."
Basil: "Why?! Because Krakatoa's not erupting at the moment ?"