Things like this are what train you to control the OCD and just do what works even though it drives you nuts! Can't let the OCD stop things or nothing will get done.
I’m glad I’m not the only one that spends a lot of time with how a circuit lays out and looks on a breadboard. Very important in troubleshooting also. Modern jumper wires are just awful.
That's 41 pins. I got as far as the bit about using the SIP resistors and had to pause the video. Just stick a bit of bare wire into the breadboard extending beyond the displays a pin at each end and standing off a bit, and then solder more bits of wire to it, for each of the LEDs. Problem solved! i saw something similar done using actual resistors where different values were wanted in each of the several positions, and plugged into one side of a chip socket, and that was in production electronics!
I'm not sure of Julians background, but I can see where he is coming from. As an electronics apprentice 40 years ago we were told/taught not to just throw things together on veroboard/stripboard (at the time) but to plan it out for shortest runs, least links, best alignment of components (passives typically vertical). It was a way of training that initially as a 16 year old you thought was a waste of time, the circuit would be 'working by now if they just let me throw it on the board'. However it taught a valuable lesson or two. It taught layouts that were easy to troubleshoot and moving forward to PCB layout it almost always was easily replicated. You have to plan the layout at some stage and when you are manually laying out PCBs with tape its easier to do it up front at the prototyping stage. I wonder if some of the negative comments stem from the penchant for rapid prototyping and then autorouting software? I enjoyed that video Julian, I can see and understand your frustration, and I certainly don't have OCD, but it's the way I always try to layout - I hate jumper wires that look like a birds nest.
A bird's nest is fraught with problems, especially when you're using CMOS, because of the potential for introducing noise. The video provides a good example of how noise can affect the circuitry.
Funny that you should mention noise ... I've built a similar setup, but with all the control lines and clock lines rather closely stuffed together, and daisy-chained. I didn't give it too much thought, but sometimes it's really hard to start the signal train, it just fizzles out either almost immediately or at varying distances down the chain. Sometimes it keeps running, especially the more 1s are in the system vs 0s. But eventually, the whole set collapses and clears almost instantly all of the 1s and then it's all dark again. Then, every time after one of the collapses, it's really hard to start them again, for a few seconds until it accepts ones again. Really weird.
I think people are overthinking this planning as ocd, this is one shift register, I imagine this is only one module of what he wants to be a well structured modularized system for learning and teaching, I have watched other breadboard computers and they look terrible and haphazard, there is a lot more to this that what you see here, this is the breadboard version of doodling and is has value. Some people need to chill the fuck out.
This is where you put in an ad for Eagle and PCBWay or some other company. I designed a 40 bit board for lighting up LEDs using 5 8-bit shift registers and 2 40 pin IDE cable connectors (for output bits and ground, which could be simplified). Took no time at all to solder the parts on when I got the boards and put it to work. The Eagle software is free for non-commercial use and just has a size restriction which is bigger than an Arduino. So you can make all the arduino shields you need. And if you need a bigger board, you just add connectors to hook multiple boards together. I designed a second board which the first board plugs into that all the LEDs can be easily connected to. At a certain point you move beyond breadboards and just get PCBs professionally made in China.
Actually quite neat, as other commenters pointed out below. You wouldn't want to see the mess I typically make while breadboarding and soldering perfboard :-)
The whole point of a breadboard is that it doesn't have to be tidy, it just has to work. When you've made it work, you design a tidy pcb to the same circuit. Do stop moaning, Julian.
sooty655 this is probably true for you and your projects. But it appears that Julian is explaining its experiments, and that a tidy breadboard is far more readable on the first sight than a bunch of spaghetti. Sure spaghetti works, and are sufficient as long as you don’t plan to explain what you’re doing to others.
ghismo that's absolutely correct, but all it proves is that Julian has chosen the wrong tool for the job. Accept it or change it, but don't moan about it.
People can complain about your moaning all they want. I totally agree with the design arguments you make. It is absolutely appalling that breadboard rails have gaps. It is super frustrating that ICs with 8-bit input/outputs don't put all 8 on the same side! That is just insane.
Tie the ground lines together with single 0.1" links then couple them all to the ground rail with one link. Or cut some header strip into 8 pin lengths, solder a bare wire each making a 7x 0R SIL resistor pack and they can thus be used whenever you need to tie 7/8 pins together neatly in future. (Tomorrow I shall be building a couple of them for my own braedboarding parts box)
For small enough resistor leads (1/8W sized), you can double up the leads into a power bus socket. Not great for the breadboard, but works for a layout like this.
I don’t know why, probably the OCD, but this video was absolutely spellbinding. Loved it. My teeth hurt when you talked about how things didn’t line up. Things HAVE to line up. Yes, I’m a bit ocd too. Doesn’t bother me. Great video, Julian 👏 I could listen to you all day long. You often verbalise what the voice in my head is saying. 😀
You could daisychain the SIL resistor packs into each other without bending pins up. The far right LED's would be grounding through the chain all the way to the single ground on the left, but if you use something like 22ohm the drop across the chain would be minimal.
And just thinking about it... You could use a SIL header pin row right across the bottom for the LED's and just solder a wire across the top of the SIL strip to common them. Much easier!
A typical 'goldpin' strip is 40 pins. Solder the short ends together with an interweaved wire, add 1 separate pin one side for ground connection and put the strip pins down into the breadboard.
Actually that does look pretty neat! :-) but I can see your dilemma! what about taking a 40 pin header and then just soldering all the pins together on the top and then just jumping the last pin to the ground? because at least a 40 pin header will have the black Parts holding it all together and if you saw the top of them all straight across that might be feasible for what you're doing! :-) a lot less hassle to to fiddle with it :-) just an idea anyways
I'm sorry if it was hard to understand a little bit because I'm using voice to text on my tablet :-) and sometimes the words don't come out right. But I was just saying take a 40 pin male headers and soldering a wire across the top the header pins. That way you can reuse it anytime and you don't have to ruin or Mar up your breadboard :-) One thing I like about that Bread Board you have is that the power rails line up perfectly with the aligned rows! All my bread boards even my main large one are not aligned like that.
I think it looks really cool at the moment. Those "jumping over the top of the chips" look really groovy. But, yeah, you're screwed with those SIL packs.
Looks like a neat layout to me. For the LED cathodes you could have just used a 40-pin header strip with a shorting wire soldered along the tops of the pins. Two minutes' work needing no individual little wire links.
That is a really cool pattern. There's a beat frequency where a mains hum harmonic doesn't quite match the frequency of your clock. I bet you can carefully adjust your clock speed to align with it and, for instance get every other LED lit, or just watch the bare section shift width dynamically for a cool effect.
I respect your OCD sensibilities Julian. Here is a great way to do this cleanly, but it's tedious to describe: You could mount the LEDs and resistors neatly on a blank .1"x.1" perf board (0.9" x 4.2") plugged in above your breadboard. Put 40 resistors in line the LED anodes but don't bend the "top" end of each eighth resistor down - leave it sticking straight out and solder a 1" jumper to it so you can attach them to pin 15. The other 35 can drop down through as 'pins' connecting to pins 1 - 7 in the breadboard. The resistors will of course be soldered under the perf board to the LED anodes. The 40 cathodes can be soldered together with a pin/wire at each end dropping down to ground and helping to hold that side of the perf board up. Pin 8 of the shift registers will be under that hole in the board skipped by a resistor. A pin or wire could added through it that would then be connected under the perf board and routed to/from ground at the LED cathodes. _[ LED ]_/==R==\_----wire---\ / U | \ | pins 1-7: | --[ IC ]-- | pin 15 Clear as mud?
what if you do the same for the led's ground as you did on the power connections? use long strips of male connector legs and solder them up on top with a wire and plop it down next to the led modules/chips
Header pins would be perfect for your problem. Just solder one solid wire across all 40 pins and one ground link and your good. I also must say I have never managed a bread board layout that neat, mine all look like forests of jumper wires.
if you had those strips of 0.1" headers, you could insert 40 pins worth into the breadboard and solder a wire across the 'board' end of the headers to bus them all together, then add 20 links off the bus with resistors to convenient places on the ground bus.
Have you thought about doing PCBs for some of these projects? You can get a board up to 10x10cm produced for about $2 plus shipping these days. May be worth thinking about it for your 8 bit computer project as you could create each element as a module.
An easier option for the ground connections would have been to use a 40 pin male header strip with each pin connected to each other with a strip of soldered wire. Then you only need one wire from the strip going to the ground connector on the breadboard.
We should make a double sided PCB for SOIC 595s so they can be chained end-to-end, with ALL the outputs on the left side! Horizontal DuPont connectors, on the top and bottom can align Q7' (shift carry out) to the Data in, and perhaps with the clock and OE passing through in parallel as well. Link them together like Legos(tm)!
Julian, if you think your's looks bad you would be horrified at mine. They often look like someone has spilt a bowl of coloured spaghetti on the breadboard.
For the grounds on the chip connect pin 8 on left chip to pin 8 on the one to its left and continue for all the others. Then connect pin 8 of the left chip to the spare row you have at the right of your chip row!
If you want to make a PCB, try EasyEDA. You can create a schematic, convert it to a PCB and the order 10 PCBs for 2$ (They now have free shipping. But only untill sunday I think).
I really enjoyed this style of video, kind of outlining your process of building projects. On the topic of projects, will there be any holiday kit builds?
Hold on, isn't the common pin common because the others are inline, so putting the common in to the last sill would mean the only problem I see is possible uneven brightness..
LDSreliance I hope you have good knowledge about mppt charge controllers. Can you make video how perturbation and observations algorithms and incremental conductance algorithms works on theory and practical. Also why cuk converter is used in most of mppt charge controller. Hope you work on them.
You mean "rain man"... (no offense, Julian) This is the stream of consciousness that get stuck in all our heads as we do this. We just don't have the patience to film it all.
Note that I have not yet watched the full video, but: What if you were to simply bend the ground pin so that it does not go into the board at all, solder a jumper to it, and ground it elsewhere, and then bend that one odd pin at the back and similarly jumper it to the necessary row on the top board .... Seems like a real simple way to bridge the two boards with the LED arrays the way you wanted and surely far less expensive than 40 resistors... You could make the modification to the register chip a little more permanent with a couple dabs of epoxy in the right places, I have seen your 'dead bug' circuits before, I am sure you have the skills necessary ......
I recently found something named the Biscuitboard and Cakeboard. They got rid of the gap in the middle so you can use those extra two rows for power and FINALLY someone got rid of the gaps every 5 columns on the power rails. www.kickstarter.com/projects/252587878/cake-board-new-lego-friendly-solderless-breadboard www.kickstarter.com/projects/252587878/biscuit-board-solderless-prototyping-board All breadboards should use this layout. I'm not sure how much they cost or if they're even available to buy anymore. The seller seems to have had lots of problems with their kickstarter but I wish some Chinese manufacturer would just go and copy this layout.
Well, I think if you want it to be presentable and easy for viewers to follow, just put up a Fritzing diagram and don't worry too much about how it looks on breadboard. If it were me, I'd go ahead and transfer this circuit to Veroboard and let the Fritzing diagram do the talking.
Do you keep all of these populated breadboards and where? You must have loads of cheapo breadboard! I stopped buying the really cheap ones as I was getting too many connection problems!
Things like this are what train you to control the OCD and just do what works even though it drives you nuts! Can't let the OCD stop things or nothing will get done.
I don't have OCD but ack! positive rails below the negative ones!
I’m glad I’m not the only one that spends a lot of time with how a circuit lays out and looks on a breadboard. Very important in troubleshooting also. Modern jumper wires are just awful.
Just use jumpers!!! That's the whole point of a breadboard. If you want perfection, make a PCB
Without knowing it, Julian has created a TIME MACHINE. I have been transported 23 minutes and 7 seconds into the future.
40 pin header with the wire soldered across the top would be nicer for LED ground
there is hope in this world!
don't solder, just wire-wrap.
or wire weave :)
That's 41 pins. I got as far as the bit about using the SIP resistors and had to pause the video. Just stick a bit of bare wire into the breadboard extending beyond the displays a pin at each end and standing off a bit, and then solder more bits of wire to it, for each of the LEDs. Problem solved! i saw something similar done using actual resistors where different values were wanted in each of the several positions, and plugged into one side of a chip socket, and that was in production electronics!
I'm not sure of Julians background, but I can see where he is coming from. As an electronics apprentice 40 years ago we were told/taught not to just throw things together on veroboard/stripboard (at the time) but to plan it out for shortest runs, least links, best alignment of components (passives typically vertical).
It was a way of training that initially as a 16 year old you thought was a waste of time, the circuit would be 'working by now if they just let me throw it on the board'. However it taught a valuable lesson or two. It taught layouts that were easy to troubleshoot and moving forward to PCB layout it almost always was easily replicated. You have to plan the layout at some stage and when you are manually laying out PCBs with tape its easier to do it up front at the prototyping stage.
I wonder if some of the negative comments stem from the penchant for rapid prototyping and then autorouting software?
I enjoyed that video Julian, I can see and understand your frustration, and I certainly don't have OCD, but it's the way I always try to layout - I hate jumper wires that look like a birds nest.
A bird's nest is fraught with problems, especially when you're using CMOS, because of the potential for introducing noise. The video provides a good example of how noise can affect the circuitry.
Thanks Stuart - you must have done a very similar apprenticeship to the one I did :)
very likely - and glad of it :)
Funny that you should mention noise ... I've built a similar setup, but with all the control lines and clock lines rather closely stuffed together, and daisy-chained. I didn't give it too much thought, but sometimes it's really hard to start the signal train, it just fizzles out either almost immediately or at varying distances down the chain. Sometimes it keeps running, especially the more 1s are in the system vs 0s. But eventually, the whole set collapses and clears almost instantly all of the 1s and then it's all dark again. Then, every time after one of the collapses, it's really hard to start them again, for a few seconds until it accepts ones again. Really weird.
:) just a keen eye for neatness - although my Wife would disagree
I think it's quite nice compared to my breadboard layouts... :)
Thanks for your time in making this educational video, love the agile (SW) style build.
I think people are overthinking this planning as ocd, this is one shift register, I imagine this is only one module of what he wants to be a well structured modularized system for learning and teaching, I have watched other breadboard computers and they look terrible and haphazard, there is a lot more to this that what you see here, this is the breadboard version of doodling and is has value. Some people need to chill the fuck out.
This is where you put in an ad for Eagle and PCBWay or some other company. I designed a 40 bit board for lighting up LEDs using 5 8-bit shift registers and 2 40 pin IDE cable connectors (for output bits and ground, which could be simplified). Took no time at all to solder the parts on when I got the boards and put it to work. The Eagle software is free for non-commercial use and just has a size restriction which is bigger than an Arduino. So you can make all the arduino shields you need. And if you need a bigger board, you just add connectors to hook multiple boards together. I designed a second board which the first board plugs into that all the LEDs can be easily connected to. At a certain point you move beyond breadboards and just get PCBs professionally made in China.
Actually quite neat, as other commenters pointed out below. You wouldn't want to see the mess I typically make while breadboarding and soldering perfboard :-)
The whole point of a breadboard is that it doesn't have to be tidy, it just has to work. When you've made it work, you design a tidy pcb to the same circuit. Do stop moaning, Julian.
sooty655 this is probably true for you and your projects. But it appears that Julian is explaining its experiments, and that a tidy breadboard is far more readable on the first sight than a bunch of spaghetti. Sure spaghetti works, and are sufficient as long as you don’t plan to explain what you’re doing to others.
ghismo that's absolutely correct, but all it proves is that Julian has chosen the wrong tool for the job. Accept it or change it, but don't moan about it.
As a hint for viewers run the first 18min faster - select gear options x 1.25 or x 1.5 -.
Can't do that through Kodi unfortunately.
People can complain about your moaning all they want. I totally agree with the design arguments you make. It is absolutely appalling that breadboard rails have gaps. It is super frustrating that ICs with 8-bit input/outputs don't put all 8 on the same side! That is just insane.
Tie the ground lines together with single 0.1" links then couple them all to the ground rail with one link.
Or cut some header strip into 8 pin lengths, solder a bare wire each making a 7x 0R SIL resistor pack and they can thus be used whenever you need to tie 7/8 pins together neatly in future.
(Tomorrow I shall be building a couple of them for my own braedboarding parts box)
What about soldering together the 40 pins of a long strip of header pins and then just tying a few of the lines to ground?
Thanks - a popular suggestion :)
For small enough resistor leads (1/8W sized), you can double up the leads into a power bus socket. Not great for the breadboard, but works for a layout like this.
I don’t know why, probably the OCD, but this video was absolutely spellbinding. Loved it.
My teeth hurt when you talked about how things didn’t line up. Things HAVE to line up. Yes, I’m a bit ocd too. Doesn’t bother me.
Great video, Julian 👏
I could listen to you all day long. You often verbalise what the voice in my head is saying. 😀
+Graham Southern Cheers Graham :)
With SMD resistors, you could build your 40 resistor 41 pin SIP.
LFSRs are quite interesting, I am looking forward to part 2.
You could daisychain the SIL resistor packs into each other without bending pins up. The far right LED's would be grounding through the chain all the way to the single ground on the left, but if you use something like 22ohm the drop across the chain would be minimal.
And just thinking about it... You could use a SIL header pin row right across the bottom for the LED's and just solder a wire across the top of the SIL strip to common them. Much easier!
A typical 'goldpin' strip is 40 pins. Solder the short ends together with an interweaved wire, add 1 separate pin one side for ground connection and put the strip pins down into the breadboard.
Actually that does look pretty neat! :-) but I can see your dilemma! what about taking a 40 pin header and then just soldering all the pins together on the top and then just jumping the last pin to the ground? because at least a 40 pin header will have the black Parts holding it all together and if you saw the top of them all straight across that might be feasible for what you're doing! :-) a lot less hassle to to fiddle with it :-) just an idea anyways
Nice idea :)
I'm sorry if it was hard to understand a little bit because I'm using voice to text on my tablet :-) and sometimes the words don't come out right. But I was just saying take a 40 pin male headers and soldering a wire across the top the header pins. That way you can reuse it anytime and you don't have to ruin or Mar up your breadboard :-) One thing I like about that Bread Board you have is that the power rails line up perfectly with the aligned rows! All my bread boards even my main large one are not aligned like that.
Dog Rox - I don't think the power rails line up. I think there are two power rails missing in the middle.
Again, no need to solder, just wire-wrap the pins together.
Dog Rox that is exactly what I was thinking. Very simple uncomplicated solution.
Always wondered why breadboards like that have gaps in the power rails
Looks pretty bloody good to this newbie
The tl;dr 3 second version of this video: 'This layout is awful!'. - Nonetheless, it's much tidier than most breadboard layouts. Thanks Julian.
@Julian Ilett I would have made a GND bus with male header pins. By soldering a long wire connecting all the pins.
Solder a thin wire across all the cathode pins and use one jumper to the ground rail.
My instinct for the ground bus would have been to plug in a 40-pin SIL header and bridge all of pins by soldering a bus wire across the top.
I think it looks really cool at the moment. Those "jumping over the top of the chips" look really groovy.
But, yeah, you're screwed with those SIL packs.
You can get sil resistors with 10 pin (plus common)
Yeah it is surprising that bus friendly breadboards do not exist
My first breadboard broke when a double decker wheeled over it. That was because the board wasn't bus friendly. :-/ ;-p
I thought I was the only one worried about neatness while putting together something on a breadboard.
To common the pins, you could use a 40 pin male header and solder a bit of bare wire along the top to connect them
Looks like a neat layout to me. For the LED cathodes you could have just used a 40-pin header strip with a shorting wire soldered along the tops of the pins. Two minutes' work needing no individual little wire links.
That is a really cool pattern. There's a beat frequency where a mains hum harmonic doesn't quite match the frequency of your clock. I bet you can carefully adjust your clock speed to align with it and, for instance get every other LED lit, or just watch the bare section shift width dynamically for a cool effect.
Yeah, I did tweak the pot and got the alternating on/off LED you describe. Cheers :)
it looks like a really good clean layout to me
Insert a 40 pin SIL header and solder all the pins together.
Thanks Joe - a popular suggestion :)
What value potentiometer and capacitor did you use for the 555 timer?
I respect your OCD sensibilities Julian.
Here is a great way to do this cleanly, but it's tedious to describe: You could mount the LEDs and resistors neatly on a blank .1"x.1" perf board (0.9" x 4.2") plugged in above your breadboard. Put 40 resistors in line the LED anodes but don't bend the "top" end of each eighth resistor down - leave it sticking straight out and solder a 1" jumper to it so you can attach them to pin 15. The other 35 can drop down through as 'pins' connecting to pins 1 - 7 in the breadboard. The resistors will of course be soldered under the perf board to the LED anodes. The 40 cathodes can be soldered together with a pin/wire at each end dropping down to ground and helping to hold that side of the perf board up. Pin 8 of the shift registers will be under that hole in the board skipped by a resistor. A pin or wire could added through it that would then be connected under the perf board and routed to/from ground at the LED cathodes.
_[ LED ]_/==R==\_----wire---\
/ U | \
| pins 1-7: | --[ IC ]-- | pin 15
Clear as mud?
I think I get it - and I do like the idea of double-decker electronics :)
Try using office staples. I use them for most single sided PCBs . Dont use the ones with the legs glues together.
2 rows of Header pins with jumpers?
it's quite nice it's really clean and not a spaghetti of wires (Like my breadboard layouts.....)
I think I would pop in a 40-pin pin header and solder a wire over all the pins and shove the end into ground...
What are those 10-block LEDs called? I tried to order but they did not appear...
You could always take 8 rectangular-lens LEDs side-by-side, then glue them together to make your own 8-segment bar-graph LED display(s), you know! :)
Julian, why not tack solder a bare copper wire along all of the display cathodes then you only have one end to ground?
You could run a piece of copper tape under the backing of the breadboard to neatly ground those leds with one link.
why didn't you just use a 40Pin 2.54mm Single Row Straight Male Header and solder a wire across the top?
what if you do the same for the led's ground as you did on the power connections? use long strips of male connector legs and solder them up on top with a wire and plop it down next to the led modules/chips
it is a proto type is has to be off a little so that the finished project looks that much better
What have I done! lol love these freestyle videos
Cheers :)
Header pins would be perfect for your problem. Just solder one solid wire across all 40 pins and one ground link and your good. I also must say I have never managed a bread board layout that neat, mine all look like forests of jumper wires.
if you had those strips of 0.1" headers, you could insert 40 pins worth into the breadboard and solder a wire across the 'board' end of the headers to bus them all together, then add
20 links off the bus with resistors to convenient places on the ground bus.
You need to put a comma in between every eight bits ;-)
For the lower resistors start back up the other side with the ground pin to the right so they end up in a V shape
+57dent that would work :)
Have you thought about doing PCBs for some of these projects? You can get a board up to 10x10cm produced for about $2 plus shipping these days. May be worth thinking about it for your 8 bit computer project as you could create each element as a module.
An easier option for the ground connections would have been to use a 40 pin male header strip with each pin connected to each other with a strip of soldered wire. Then you only need one wire from the strip going to the ground connector on the breadboard.
Why not use pin headers on the bottom of the LED's to tie them all together then one wire to the common rail.
Why not a custom PCB?
3rd way to straighten wire: pull straight and gently twist around.
can you control things on a breadboard via PC rather than having to use an Arduino or Raspberry Pi?
I have no idea what I just watched, but at least it had pretty lighs at the end, so....Yay!!
lol
We should make a double sided PCB for SOIC 595s so they can be chained end-to-end, with ALL the outputs on the left side! Horizontal DuPont connectors, on the top and bottom can align Q7' (shift carry out) to the Data in, and perhaps with the clock and OE passing through in parallel as well. Link them together like Legos(tm)!
That's my ultimate goal - Lego electronics :)
Another way to straighten wire is to roll it between two flat surfaces.
For such a 'straight' design, I'd think veroboard (stripboard) would be a good fit. Still need links for the high bit in each octet though...
sir please give complete circuit digram
If you want cheap breadbord wire then just splice cat5e or cat6 ehternet cable
Clive's trick .. before you snip the wire, move the sniper to the new end point.
Instead of each individual link on the LEDs, some SIL resistors would have sped that up quite a lot!
Julian, if you think your's looks bad you would be horrified at mine. They often look like someone has spilt a bowl of coloured spaghetti on the breadboard.
If this is not satisfying to you, don't look at any of my tidiest layouts, they are still a mess compared to your layout here.
For the grounds on the chip connect pin 8 on left chip to pin 8 on the one to its left and continue for all the others. Then connect pin 8 of the left chip to the spare row you have at the right of your chip row!
I shoulda done that
All you have to do is space the chips out a bit more and use octal LED's.
If you want to make a PCB, try EasyEDA. You can create a schematic, convert it to a PCB and the order 10 PCBs for 2$ (They now have free shipping. But only untill sunday I think).
Just pull the metal bread board clips out and cut em in half. Then you can use regular resistors like above
I really enjoyed this style of video, kind of outlining your process of building projects. On the topic of projects, will there be any holiday kit builds?
Thanks :) Yeah, I've still got that Xmas tree kit somewhere!
Hold on, isn't the common pin common because the others are inline, so putting the common in to the last sill would mean the only problem I see is possible uneven brightness..
Well Julian you seem to have attracted the moaners and whiners with this video!
Maybe look at dip package resistors, or smd carriers
nm , i just got to that part of video lol
Clearly, solderless breadboards and ICs were not designed for people with OCD.
if you didnt found a solution right now just take a male pin header with 40 pins and take a wire on which you solder all 40 pins to short them out
LDSreliance I hope you have good knowledge about mppt charge controllers. Can you make video how perturbation and observations algorithms and incremental conductance algorithms works on theory and practical. Also why cuk converter is used in most of mppt charge controller. Hope you work on them.
Those sips look like SCSI terminator resistor packs Julian!
R33 sounds like 33ohms Cheers!
I think that's where they came from - SCSI disk drives :)
What's the big deal? I do "unsatisfactory breadboard layouts" of one sort or another, all the time.
you should use a 560 ohm resistor to drive led's on a SN74HC595N
Whose moronic idea was it to have the power/ground bus bars be non continuous anyway? That guy deserves a swift kick to the crotch.
at that point I'm sure it would be quicker to make a PCB
Do you need the resistor banks? You have resistors already, don't you?
I fully understand. It's like being an Airman (Air Force) working in an Army world.
You mean "rain man"... (no offense, Julian) This is the stream of consciousness that get stuck in all our heads as we do this. We just don't have the patience to film it all.
Note that I have not yet watched the full video, but:
What if you were to simply bend the ground pin so that it does not go into the board at all, solder a jumper to it, and ground it elsewhere, and then bend that one odd pin at the back and similarly jumper it to the necessary row on the top board ....
Seems like a real simple way to bridge the two boards with the LED arrays the way you wanted and surely far less expensive than 40 resistors...
You could make the modification to the register chip a little more permanent with a couple dabs of epoxy in the right places, I have seen your 'dead bug' circuits before, I am sure you have the skills necessary ......
I recently found something named the Biscuitboard and Cakeboard. They got rid of the gap in the middle so you can use those extra two rows for power and FINALLY someone got rid of the gaps every 5 columns on the power rails.
www.kickstarter.com/projects/252587878/cake-board-new-lego-friendly-solderless-breadboard
www.kickstarter.com/projects/252587878/biscuit-board-solderless-prototyping-board
All breadboards should use this layout.
I'm not sure how much they cost or if they're even available to buy anymore.
The seller seems to have had lots of problems with their kickstarter but I wish some Chinese manufacturer would just go and copy this layout.
I love it - clearly designed by someone who feels my pain! Cheers :)
Julian Ilett You should see if you can get some.
Are you planning on making a calculator or something with this? because you can easily do such a thing! Very simply too.
The LFSR video will require a calculator to figure out how many thousand years it will take for the pattern to repeat :)
Well, I think if you want it to be presentable and easy for viewers to follow, just put up a Fritzing diagram and don't worry too much about how it looks on breadboard. If it were me, I'd go ahead and transfer this circuit to Veroboard and let the Fritzing diagram do the talking.
awsome!!!
Is this a "how not to do it" video?
More of a vlog really
Or just...... nothing
A vlog about nothing. ;)
You need a bigger proto-board ;)
prototyping or vero board - or my old favorite - wire wrapping ........
Not exactly spaghetti junction now... come on!
Do you keep all of these populated breadboards and where? You must have loads of cheapo breadboard! I stopped buying the really cheap ones as I was getting too many connection problems!