You can use a screwdriver on the spoke nipples until there is not enough purchase from the spoke coming through - fast way to get to a tight enough fit to tune/true it using a proper spoke key - better than the small Cresent. Good series. Hint - if you lose the fork caps - saddles - you could leave them loosely held onto the sliders ends with the nuts to save hunting for them. I'm an ex-motorcycle mechanic and help out a couple of friends with restorations - mostly they've stripped the bikes and they have not been methodical in disassembly, so this is a constant frustration! Thanks
Have watched all your. bike related videos, a couple of the others, very much like that you show what can be done with simple facilities, and that you de-mystify a lot of subjects - great job!
HartfordHD125 There is indeed some pride to be had in knowing how to build a wheel is there not? :) It's a very relaxing task to me. Truing a bent wheel is another story. Chasing the bent part around the rim. You have to sneak up on those from both sides. Nothing like a good whack on the ol' bench to help out as well!
***** Just a small suggestion.. I mostly do truing job on bicycle rims but a bit of choke helps to mark the wobble if you do not use a gauge. I do not know if applies to motorcycle spokes as well, but is a good idea to squeeze the spokes in order to release any twist tension (not sure if is called like that). If the spokes are twisted, the wheel will seem to be true, but while riding, due to the different loads it will be released and will lead to a little wobble in the rim and you will have to true them again.
AHA. I just started watching this build the other day and ran out of episodes last night. Glad to see a new video up! I like what you're doing and the clear explanations of things. After sticking through the whole crankcase/bearing video you gave me enough courage to do a top end rebuild on an old 81 cm400 that I ended up with. Has a burnt valve and bad compression on one side. After thinking it was the carbs for a while and 2 soaks later, Im excited to get into that engine when the parts come in. Excited for your scrambler/ADV idea. Thats actually what my bike ended up as. Nice 70/30 road/dirt tires and some good bars make the position about perfect for it. Keep it up! I know that box of stuff is a hassle to search through every darn time you need a bolt, but we really appreciate the outcome! (and the bike)
I just installed my front wheel on my own 73 cb750, and I noticed that when I torque the front axle nut/bolt together to the specified manual tension, it does not spin at all. Then I back it off to "finger loose" and it spins like it should. This seems like a weird issue of some kind. I went haywire compensating for the 4 nuts at bottom of forks - added lock washers, loctite threadlock, and ALSO a second set of nuts to lock onto THAT... I want no problems here... but I am feeling deep misgivings about the lax torque on the front wheel axle... but the thing has to turn... so what's up with this? Is it really right to set the torque on this nut/bolt pair so tight? What is the numeric torque you should use? I'm second guessing the manual...not riding it yet, though. Now... I can't help but think back on this hauntingly... it says to use as much as 47 foot lbs of torque on that front wheel nut... but in this video you are just casually hand tightening it. That is what I wanted to do as well, but now I'm really feeling misgivings about that. Look at it in the manual... up to 47 foot lbs. Can the bearings even handle that? forums.sohc4.net/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=120559.0;attach=217557;image
cb 750 is a streetbike. There might be some weight issues when turning it to a scrambler/tracker. That in-line-4 engine is way too heavy to work properly on a dirt road. But, if you build a side car to it, that should balance the package enough to ride it around. other issue is the gear ratio, but I think you were already aware of that. :)
Nice video, can't wait to see what you do with the bike in the end! The sabre was the best video series I've seen in a while, and I'm really interested in getting a cb750 so this will be just as good I'm sure of it. Keep the videos coming!
Good video Keith. I woulda liked to see it become a cafe, I liked your ideas on the sabre and I was curious to see what you would do different with this. Guess I got my answer! lol Chris
There is a company which makes a drop in kit for the front forks of those which gives them modern style damping valves in the original tubes. The price was reasonable too. Can't think of the name at the moment, but those with progressive springs would be good.
Great videos, extremely helpful. Question: Did you purchase new spokes and if so are they factory replacements or the really nice stainless steel ones? Thanks
Think about it by all means. And then (IMHO) realise you should build it as a cafe - or if not, restore it to original. Anyway, your bike, your choice.
@ dean may I pick your brain please about worn clutch springs? Mine are 3 mm under speck but I cant get standard new ones as they are so expensive, I purchased some EBC springs and they are 3.5mm over length and way to stiff. I have heard that you can use some washers to pack your springs out to give some added tension? I was thinking that if I added 3mm washer to each spring they would be bought back to speck length as it were but still give me a light clutch lever pull? Can you offer any advice on my situation? Many thanks rct.
rct2 For every bearing yo place in the stack you also loose some of the clutches ability to release. Your springs are worn out and fatigued. There's no magic bullet to bring them back They'll start slipping at some point even with the shims and then you'll need to replace the clutch discs. Save your money and buy new stock springs.
id go for deans suggestion , but however , ive worked with steel my entire life ,and cars and bikes. IF your up for the try , find the specific lenght of the springs and pull them to it , heat up your oven to 300 celcius (572 f) or what it allows set them in for 3 hours and let them cool of by them self.
Your bike is a 1973... is that hub a 73? My bike is also a 73 but the hub is not like that and the speedometer, retainer and cover I found online do not fit flush. Both sides have that tall lip.
I would restore the bike to stock, with so many scrambles and cafe racer builds ruining these bikes, the stock Japanese standard bike is becoming extinct.
Hmm..interesting. I have a 78 cb750f supersport with the comstar wheels and I love the dual disk brakes, but wished I had spoked wheels instead. I've been trying to figure out a spoked wheel that will work with the dual disk brakes and so far, no luck:/
Hmm..interesting. I have a 78 cb750f supersport with the comstar wheels and I love the dual disk brakes, but wished I had spoked wheels instead. I've been trying to figure out a spoked wheel that will work with the dual disk brakes and so far, no luck:/
Thanks for your videos on a cb750, I'm currently rebuilding mine and after 8 years ago these are still extremely important to me and I'm sure others.
You can use a screwdriver on the spoke nipples until there is not enough purchase from the spoke coming through - fast way to get to a tight enough fit to tune/true it using a proper spoke key - better than the small Cresent. Good series.
Hint - if you lose the fork caps - saddles - you could leave them loosely held onto the sliders ends with the nuts to save hunting for them. I'm an ex-motorcycle mechanic and help out a couple of friends with restorations - mostly they've stripped the bikes and they have not been methodical in disassembly, so this is a constant frustration!
Thanks
Have watched all your. bike related videos, a couple of the others, very much like that you show what can be done with simple facilities, and that you de-mystify a lot of subjects - great job!
As a young lad I spent many long hours truing wheels for bikes. This brings back memories.
HartfordHD125 There is indeed some pride to be had in knowing how to build a wheel is there not? :) It's a very relaxing task to me. Truing a bent wheel is another story. Chasing the bent part around the rim. You have to sneak up on those from both sides. Nothing like a good whack on the ol' bench to help out as well!
***** Just a small suggestion.. I mostly do truing job on bicycle rims but a bit of choke helps to mark the wobble if you do not use a gauge. I do not know if applies to motorcycle spokes as well, but is a good idea to squeeze the spokes in order to release any twist tension (not sure if is called like that). If the spokes are twisted, the wheel will seem to be true, but while riding, due to the different loads it will be released and will lead to a little wobble in the rim and you will have to true them again.
I think the scrambler direction for this bike would be awesome!
AHA. I just started watching this build the other day and ran out of episodes last night. Glad to see a new video up! I like what you're doing and the clear explanations of things. After sticking through the whole crankcase/bearing video you gave me enough courage to do a top end rebuild on an old 81 cm400 that I ended up with. Has a burnt valve and bad compression on one side. After thinking it was the carbs for a while and 2 soaks later, Im excited to get into that engine when the parts come in. Excited for your scrambler/ADV idea. Thats actually what my bike ended up as. Nice 70/30 road/dirt tires and some good bars make the position about perfect for it. Keep it up! I know that box of stuff is a hassle to search through every darn time you need a bolt, but we really appreciate the outcome! (and the bike)
5:23 you shouldn't hammer the bearing in by its race, that'll damage it
better to use a large socket the same diameter as the outer edge of the bearing and hammer it in by that
CR2504life Good suggestion. I got lazy there.. :)
yeah you usually do it the right way!
HackaweekTV a
Excelente Thank you
I just installed my front wheel on my own 73 cb750, and I noticed that when I torque the front axle nut/bolt together to the specified manual tension, it does not spin at all. Then I back it off to "finger loose" and it spins like it should. This seems like a weird issue of some kind. I went haywire compensating for the 4 nuts at bottom of forks - added lock washers, loctite threadlock, and ALSO a second set of nuts to lock onto THAT... I want no problems here... but I am feeling deep misgivings about the lax torque on the front wheel axle... but the thing has to turn... so what's up with this? Is it really right to set the torque on this nut/bolt pair so tight? What is the numeric torque you should use? I'm second guessing the manual...not riding it yet, though. Now... I can't help but think back on this hauntingly... it says to use as much as 47 foot lbs of torque on that front wheel nut... but in this video you are just casually hand tightening it. That is what I wanted to do as well, but now I'm really feeling misgivings about that. Look at it in the manual... up to 47 foot lbs. Can the bearings even handle that?
forums.sohc4.net/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=120559.0;attach=217557;image
I have missed a few videos on this project. Really cool to see it coming along so well. I think a scrambler tourer sounds like a great idea.
cb 750 is a streetbike. There might be some weight issues when turning it to a scrambler/tracker. That in-line-4 engine is way too heavy to work properly on a dirt road. But, if you build a side car to it, that should balance the package enough to ride it around. other issue is the gear ratio, but I think you were already aware of that. :)
Oikku Oek Gear ratios can be alter with different sprockets.
Nice video, can't wait to see what you do with the bike in the end! The sabre was the best video series I've seen in a while, and I'm really interested in getting a cb750 so this will be just as good I'm sure of it. Keep the videos coming!
Good video Keith. I woulda liked to see it become a cafe, I liked your ideas on the sabre and I was curious to see what you would do different with this. Guess I got my answer! lol Chris
Coming alive,one piece at the time.
Kinda sucks for people who donated thinking they were gonna see a café build. Love your videos anyway man!
Its all ways worth it to stay to the vary end of the video
Great ideas,this will be interesting.
scrambler for sure that would be a great build
scrambler? ok just got really excited lol
I like the notion of going for something different. Are you going to monoshock it?
GunFun ZS No monoshock. Too much work. I'll just install over size shocks.
There is a company which makes a drop in kit for the front forks of those which gives them modern style damping valves in the original tubes. The price was reasonable too. Can't think of the name at the moment, but those with progressive springs would be good.
Looking good
Great videos, extremely helpful. Question: Did you purchase new spokes and if so are they factory replacements or the really nice stainless steel ones? Thanks
What about using a torque wrench to finalize the spoke tension?
love the "Bob's your uncle: haha
awesome idea
I know this is an old video. But where in the world are you finding these new parts?
True dat
Where did you get the spoked wheels? They aren't stock are they?
Think about it by all means. And then (IMHO) realise you should build it as a cafe - or if not, restore it to original. Anyway, your bike, your choice.
Thanks dean will do what you say, should be ok to get the original ones end of next month if the wife dont find out.....mwahahahahahaaa
@ dean may I pick your brain please about worn clutch springs?
Mine are 3 mm under speck but I cant get standard new ones as they are so expensive, I purchased some EBC springs and they are 3.5mm over length and way to stiff. I have heard that you can use some washers to pack your springs out to give some added tension? I was thinking that if I added 3mm washer to each spring they would be bought back to speck length as it were but still give me a light clutch lever pull?
Can you offer any advice on my situation?
Many thanks rct.
rct2 For every bearing yo place in the stack you also loose some of the clutches ability to release. Your springs are worn out and fatigued. There's no magic bullet to bring them back They'll start slipping at some point even with the shims and then you'll need to replace the clutch discs. Save your money and buy new stock springs.
id go for deans suggestion , but however , ive worked with steel my entire life ,and cars and bikes. IF your up for the try , find the specific lenght of the springs and pull them to it , heat up your oven to 300 celcius (572 f) or what it allows set them in for 3 hours and let them cool of by them self.
Your bike is a 1973... is that hub a 73? My bike is also a 73 but the hub is not like that and the speedometer, retainer and cover I found online do not fit flush. Both sides have that tall lip.
Also the speedo drive from what I found online shows it on the right side
@osamarama we're still doing that? ,':/
You gonna drill the discs?
steven livingston Probably not.
I would restore the bike to stock, with so many scrambles and cafe racer builds ruining these bikes, the stock Japanese standard bike is becoming extinct.
Is that a gold wing front end? I don't recall any CBs coming with dual disk brakes rotors on spoked wheels.
itsjussjerry Not a Gold Wing. Not sure where the previous owner got these parts.
Hmm..interesting. I have a 78 cb750f supersport with the comstar wheels and I love the dual disk brakes, but wished I had spoked wheels instead. I've been trying to figure out a spoked wheel that will work with the dual disk brakes and so far, no luck:/
Hmm..interesting. I have a 78 cb750f supersport with the comstar wheels and I love the dual disk brakes, but wished I had spoked wheels instead. I've been trying to figure out a spoked wheel that will work with the dual disk brakes and so far, no luck:/
@@itsjussjerryCould be brassplated from the looks of it
💪💪💪👍👍👍🙏🙏🙏
Those are way too fast to have offroad. If you wanna do that get a cb450
first lolol