Thank you so much. Means a lot coming from a fellow techie ‘tuber. An awful lot of VO ends up in the iMovie edit bin, but glad it’s worth doing and appreciated. It took no time at all to realise I’m not suited to speaking on camera and that honestly takes the pressure off making the films. Thanks again. B
Pater, enjoyed the video. The pad in the middle of the LED is (usually) for heat sinking purposes. Typically this type of LED is run at 20mA to 80mA so they need to have a way for the heat to escape. As you have connected it you are passing a much lower current than normal. So your LED shouldn't have problems for a good while.
Such a clear calm voice, a real pleasure to listen to!
Thank you so much. Means a lot coming from a fellow techie ‘tuber. An awful lot of VO ends up in the iMovie edit bin, but glad it’s worth doing and appreciated. It took no time at all to realise I’m not suited to speaking on camera and that honestly takes the pressure off making the films. Thanks again. B
Your instructions and shots are exemplary! This is exactly what I needed. Thank you! Liked and subscribed.
Excellent, so glad it was helpful. Hopefully also adaptable to other locos.
Pater, enjoyed the video. The pad in the middle of the LED is (usually) for heat sinking purposes. Typically this type of LED is run at 20mA to 80mA so they need to have a way for the heat to escape. As you have connected it you are passing a much lower current than normal. So your LED shouldn't have problems for a good while.
Thanks for the info!
Thanks for this. I must check the mA of the lighting output of the DCC chip. Like you say, it shouldn't be much.
**UPDATE** You can now download the pdf for the head-code blind shutters here: paterpracticus.com/downloads