Mr Tom, you are the man!! You have taught me so much and I can't thank you enough. We no longer have cable, so we stream this old house everyday. Tell everybody from the show the Snow fam says hello. And keep up the great work.
and a saw that cuts exactly like it needs to, has a flat base, has a fence perpendicular to the base. the list goes on. all factosr that will screw the cut up just slightly. Sincerely, angry home owner trying to cut crown
@Cameron P I'm feeling your pain. Just gave up after trying so many times today. Exhausted, angry, and can'teven focus any more. The worse part is I'm using a hand saw, the only tool I have. 😭
One quick tip: When I cut trim, I check every angle with a miter finder. You're right, very few walls are 90 degrees. If a corner is 86 degrees, it will tell me to make 43 degree cuts. Makes for perfect looking miters no matter the wall situation.
As a carpenter for a living they said to me In order to be a master carpenter always be open to learn to this day I am still learning thirty years later
this is for beginners. advanced users would use a compound miter saw and cut the board flat, by simply adjusting the bevel and miter angles. there's a few really good charts online. After a few cuts even beginners will catch on easy. This method can be dangerous for beginners if not using proper stops and safety measures. so the new school method is definitely way more ideal, clean, consistent and most importantly more safe.
Totally agree I cut my crown flat using compound miter/bevel.....I never have to move the angle only rotate the crown.....goes much much faster, easier and more accurate......don't need fancy gauges or huge fence to cut it......laid miles of this stuff and this is fastest way to do it, you do need to know if crown is 38/52 or 45/45 spring angles but still it's way easier
scarf joints are angled to account for shrinkage as wood dries ,if it does.On a butt joint there would be a gap, but on a scarf joint there is STILL overlap.
You measure from corner to corner and mark it on the BOTTOM of you’re piece. Then, put the saw it at the desired 45 degree angle. THEN make sure you’re saw is cutting the bottom of the trim down to the top. If you need to know a precise angle they have tools for that. What tommy does with the cope cute is optional, you can have two inside 45 angels if you want
And remember, use as few scarf/breaks as possible, I was at a relative’s, and there was 7 breaks in one room on the crown that all could have been eliminated simply by using long enough boards. Two of them were 12 inches apart. And they were straight cut, and stuck out horribly as they were caulked horribly.
When cutting flat you are going to have 2 #s. The Miter and the bevel. Both those #s will depend on the spring of the crown. 38, 45, 52 with 38° being the most common. there's a table that you can pull up online that will give you those #s and also most double compound saws already have them marked on the table and swing gauge. the most common #s will be in believe 31.6° and 33.8°. Depending on if the wall is square or not you will adjust those #s accordingly to make your corners "inside or out" come together. I haven't run crown in a bit but as soon as you get those 2 #s down it rolls smooth. It just boggles my mind how people do the upside down round and round dance.
not to mention cutting flat you don't have to set up some crazy table or bench or whatever. You just pull out your bad boy "Chop Saw" slap the crown on it and vamo nos....
Need help with a 135 degree inside cornet but the profile of the crown has a step on the bottom built in to sit on the top of cabinets. I need help with how to set this up in the miter saw. I can send a picture if needed.
I am doing crown and I am having trouble with a bullnose. There is an odd angle near my fireplace and I just cannot figure this one out. I used my angle finder and know the angle is 120 degrees outside cut. However I cannot seem to figure out the cuts? Can you please help with some advice? Thank you.
He's showing the old school method. If you are using a compound saw (as he is), then why not lay the piece down flat and use the bevel and and angle stops on the saw. Also, doing a spice cut, I lay the crown flat, then cut a 30 degree bevel- square angle cut. Works great. Different strokes, no disrespect to Tommy.
@@ThekiBoran Miter saw get nocked around and out of adjustment. So you need to make sure your saw is at 90 degrees when it says 90 degrees. That mean the blade is horizontal and vertical 90 degrees exact measurement.
Normally these videos are pretty good at explaining things, but this one would not exactly be of much help to a non-carpenter. We (and I'm talking about the builders, and other carpenters I work with) cut crown flat - easier to adjust for angle variations that way. To get tuned-in to the proper way to cut crown cut some test pieces and mark them accordingly - ex: outside corner/left; top/bottom; etc, etc. - in no time at all you'll get the hang of it (and only have wasted a couple hundred dollars of crown in the process!!). I once had a guy want to tell him, over the phone, how to cut crown moulding - good luck with that!! Ain't gonna happen!!
Look up Larry Haun video series on crown. The BEST and easiest presentation on cutting crown. He’s got a process where you don’t need to think which way the saw direction goes. Always cut in the actual position upside down.
Serious question from a novice: Why not cut the inside corner the same way as the outside corner? I sincerely don't understand why you would have one piece of crown butted up square (w/ a straight cross cut) against the inside corner, and then do all that work manually coping behind the adjoining piece of crown? Seems like a ton of extra work with little benefit in terms of quality. What am I missing?
Tip: Always make relief cuts before doing a coping cut. That will eliminate mistakes as we have noticed. I am surprised a master carpenter didn't do it.
I've been trimming homes for over 30 years and not once have I ever stood my grown-up 145 degrees I've always laid it down and I cut from left to right
I use 8,5" saw on job. Not 12" like him. I cut flat with compound cut and cope with jig saw not with hand saw. I will change it now when I sow video. Thanks to let me know. Question. What you do when ceiling is uneven and miter is say 3 degree of and crown is for example maple, so you can not use hand saw. Expert I'm waiting for answer.
Inside and outside corners can often be tight fitted by simply moving joint up or down. Leave last 2' or so from corners un-nailed until joint is fitted.. Glue outside joints and pin together with 18 or 23 gauge gun. Set scarf joints so you are not looking into joint from most common point of view. Slide compounds are not the most accurate as the slides can bend slightly as you load forever down.. If you do use make sure you are loading forever straight towards cut and not 90° downward. Always look straight at profile horizontally when cutting cope or your angle may not be properly removed to allow it to cradle into other piece. Some trim guys cut coping as much as 45° to the reverse of initial miter cut to make sure pieces mate.. This is a bit much tho... Theoretically a 90° square cut would work.. But not in reality. Also glue skarf joints. Use a jig block to make marks on wall where crown should be. If you cut crown like he did, you may want to mark work a pencil on saw where to hold trim if crown is large or has a small lip making accuracy difficult.
@@claytonschmidt78 Man thank you for answer. I was ironic in my comment. I'm not ironic now as you evidently spent time to answer. I developed my style and use it already 15 years like self employed and before 5 years like employee. Compound cut and jig saw. However it would take me 1 hour to explain my style and what I do. I'm thinking to made cd for sale about it. I do not know miter inside joints and it is not at end of my mind to try to do it. I have enough of outside joints. I have portfolio to prove that I know what I'm doing when is crown in question.
I cant believe he is doing a coping cut. Anyone that can operate a 12in mitre saw should able to do an inside mitre. Better to show that inside corners are always full of drywall mud, and never square, and how to make that mitre look good. But it is neat to see old school procedures now and then
If you can cope; it's faster. M.D.F. crown, especially. Cut it tight. I have met some guys that don't know what a coping saw is. If it's pre-finished material on cabs, then I do inside miters. Once again, ( different strokes.)
Ummm... "Double Compound Chop Saw" together with the table of angle and bevel Numbers and done. youngsters I'm the business do yourself a favor and invest in that saw. No up side down or back and forth. just set the crown flat , set your angles and bevels accordingly and move on. No head games or old school cures. Love this old house and forever will be a fan so no disrespect.
You need to lay your crown flat and actually use your bevel/mitre settings properly. Cutting like he is here without the use of crown stops makes for errors and sloppy mitres.
This is great in theory, but in most homes you'll make your cuts and then find out that your wall angles did not total 90 degrees, but were in reality maybe 88 degrees, or 92 degrees. Crown mouldings take patience, and practice.
+destruction123 he is right you know my dad is a trim carpenter/cabinet maker and they are doing the lazy cheater way good for track homes but frowned upon in custom homes
+oo0Spyder0oo If you simply butt 2 pieces of wood together with straight 90 degree cuts, the visible seam not only looks terrible and "cheap".........but as the wood expands & contracts over time, that seam will become AN UGLY GAP. When you mitre the seams, the seam is practically invisible, and even with expansion & contraction of the wood over time, the 2 pieces of wood are OVERLAPPED, so any gap caused by expansion & contraction over time, will only be very little, and the OVERLAP helps to hide it. It is the professional way of doing this. You should NEVER simply butt 2 pieces of "finish wood" together in any project.
also, you can angle the cut away from the area the joint will most likely been seen from, thus better concealing the joint. This takes a little forethought in deciding which direction you go with the trim (from which corner on a wall).
Well that was less that helpful. One guy rushing through the cuts like it all makes perfect sense, and the other "getting wood" watching him do it. How about tips on taking measurements? What angle are you doing your coping cut? What's the best area to nail it in? Anyone can slap some molding on the chop saw and cut.
It's only helpful if you have an extremely expensive mitre saw! If you have already spent that amount of money on a saw, the chances are you already know what you are doing!
The scarf joint and inside corner are fine and in an ideal world you would have 90 degree outside corners but being on this old house you know that doesn't happen much. This is somewhat misleading to a person that has no knowledge of remodeling and older home or even a newer one.
When the wall corners aren't 90 degrees you have to dial it in to make it perfect. Why not discuss that ? You just cant cut two pieces at 45 degrees and have them line up perfectly when the corner is 92 degrees...or 88 degrees. Yeah for a ianted molding you can slop it in with caulk but if you are doing with a bare/stained wood you dont have that option.
The scarf joint I should show the jerk that invented that patch nightmare they never look good after calk and paint and I have to remove mine. It’s awful absolutely the thing that stands out. He made it 8 inches at least across. So now I have to hire someone who can do it beautifully. What happened to measure twice and cut once.
Mr Tom, you are the man!! You have taught me so much and I can't thank you enough. We no longer have cable, so we stream this old house everyday. Tell everybody from the show the Snow fam says hello. And keep up the great work.
It’s so easy when you have walls with perfectly true 90 degree angles; i.e. about 10% of actual homes
and a saw that cuts exactly like it needs to, has a flat base, has a fence perpendicular to the base. the list goes on. all factosr that will screw the cut up just slightly.
Sincerely,
angry home owner trying to cut crown
@Cameron P I'm feeling your pain. Just gave up after trying so many times today. Exhausted, angry, and can'teven focus any more. The worse part is I'm using a hand saw, the only tool I have. 😭
One quick tip: When I cut trim, I check every angle with a miter finder. You're right, very few walls are 90 degrees. If a corner is 86 degrees, it will tell me to make 43 degree cuts. Makes for perfect looking miters no matter the wall situation.
Been in the remodeling business for over thirty years. I can count on one hand the times I've had a perfect 90 degree outside miter on crown.
Perfect 90 are like unicorns they don’t exist
Nice tight cut, Tommy. Well done.
THE best DIY'r; when it comes to "cutting crowns"; that I have seen. Thanks Tom. You are truly a "cut" above kind Sir!
It’s easy to make it look tight before it’s actually on the wall
*shakes head and stars lustfully into eyes* "nice tight cut Tommy"
IKR! It looked like he seriously wanted to suck Tommy off.
This is exactly what I needed to see
I like the scarf joint placad flat against fence, miter at 45 and reverse other side for an overlay.
Great demonstration guys.
So simple so beautiful thank you
As a carpenter for a living they said to me In order to be a master carpenter always be open to learn to this day I am still learning thirty years later
Thank you. I had no "idear" how to do that.
Good tips boys!!
save my project
True mastery of ones trade.
Thank you for making this video. It makes me realize how much I’ve forgotten about carpentry. 🤦🏻♂️
😍
mannnnnnnnnnnn, tommy makes it look easy!!!!!!
Thank you Tommy
Nice and clean. Wish I had a dime for everytime I installed crown.
wow, this makes perfect sense now
Great job, just cut some perfect😊
Thank you
Thanks
Nice straight walls and ceiling
Thank you. All of these other premadonnas over explaining this was getting me nowhere. Clear, concise, no nonsense.
this is for beginners. advanced users would use a compound miter saw and cut the board flat, by simply adjusting the bevel and miter angles. there's a few really good charts online. After a few cuts even beginners will catch on easy. This method can be dangerous for beginners if not using proper stops and safety measures. so the new school method is definitely way more ideal, clean, consistent and most importantly more safe.
Holy hell! Where was this video a few jerks back!
Totally agree I cut my crown flat using compound miter/bevel.....I never have to move the angle only rotate the crown.....goes much much faster, easier and more accurate......don't need fancy gauges or huge fence to cut it......laid miles of this stuff and this is fastest way to do it, you do need to know if crown is 38/52 or 45/45 spring angles but still it's way easier
Woah what’s 38/52 for ??
Good video! Very clear directions, excellent!
You cut away as soon as he made the hard turn! How does he smooth that out and how does he make it work!
What is the miter angle and bevel angle set to for making a scarf cut? It looks like 45 degrees for miter angle and 0 degrees for bevel angle?
These videos are meant to show the basics to beginners. Not to be critiqued by pros.
cjpenning
I don't get a say? Dang it!
Making cope cuts is like an art I have such a hard time making them.
It's hard to cope. 😂
scarf joints are angled to account for shrinkage as wood dries ,if it does.On a butt joint there would be a gap, but on a scarf joint there is STILL overlap.
738polarbear
Plus, you're gluing just a bit of long grain to long grain and not straight end to end grain. Therefore a scarf joint is stronger.
This man looks like that dad i never had
or a 24 grit angle grinder for the cope
I tried to do that but something ain’t right. I’ve been cutting the same piece of wood three times and it’s still too short
Try adding the thickness of the material to the total length of the wall
@Ellery Bruce 🤣 🤣🤣
You can cut inside corner with miter saw as well.
How do you do this?
Flap sanding disk for an angle grinder is a lot easier than a coping saw.
How u cut a upper corner carbinet crown above the lazy susan is tht 22.5.
Again, this just shows cuts in random places on molding. I need to see how a precise measurement is made and how the cuts are made. Learned zilch.
You measure from corner to corner and mark it on the BOTTOM of you’re piece. Then, put the saw it at the desired 45 degree angle. THEN make sure you’re saw is cutting the bottom of the trim down to the top. If you need to know a precise angle they have tools for that.
What tommy does with the cope cute is optional, you can have two inside 45 angels if you want
@@dr.zoidberg5096 thank you!
watch a video on how to read a tape measure then watch a video on how to use a chop saw
And remember, use as few scarf/breaks as possible, I was at a relative’s, and there was 7 breaks in one room on the crown that all could have been eliminated simply by using long enough boards.
Two of them were 12 inches apart. And they were straight cut, and stuck out horribly as they were caulked horribly.
Tom you must not have read your directions on your Delta instruction manual. LOVE YA TOM your the only reason I ever watched the show
Which brand saw is this and model?
When cutting flat you are going to have 2 #s. The Miter and the bevel. Both those #s will depend on the spring of the crown. 38, 45, 52 with 38° being the most common. there's a table that you can pull up online that will give you those #s and also most double compound saws already have them marked on the table and swing gauge. the most common #s will be in believe 31.6° and 33.8°. Depending on if the wall is square or not you will adjust those #s accordingly to make your corners "inside or out" come together. I haven't run crown in a bit but as soon as you get those 2 #s down it rolls smooth. It just boggles my mind how people do the upside down round and round dance.
I'm with you!
I was just going to post the same thing. Never would I do it the was they just did.
thats what caulk is for hahaha
not to mention cutting flat you don't have to set up some crazy table or bench or whatever. You just pull out your bad boy "Chop Saw" slap the crown on it and vamo nos....
Need help with a 135 degree inside cornet but the profile of the crown has a step on the bottom built in to sit on the top of cabinets. I need help with how to set this up in the miter saw. I can send a picture if needed.
I am doing crown and I am having trouble with a bullnose. There is an odd angle near my fireplace and I just cannot figure this one out. I used my angle finder and know the angle is 120 degrees outside cut. However I cannot seem to figure out the cuts? Can you please help with some advice? Thank you.
I think you need a 1" bullnose cut piece
LMAO!!! MY SAR IS SET!!!
The coping saw -- works well on wood, not composite and is like an art form. It will take practice with a coping saw.
So the trim being cope cut was just cut at a strait 45° ?
He's showing the old school method. If you are using a compound saw (as he is), then why not lay the piece down flat and use the bevel and and angle stops on the saw. Also, doing a spice cut, I lay the crown flat, then cut a 30 degree bevel- square angle cut. Works great. Different strokes, no disrespect to Tommy.
Installing mailbox posts
Looks real easy with short little pieces. Now try cutting a 16 foot piece.
Yeah man.....
Yep. That's where the following expression will come into play - "Caulk and paint make it what it ain't."
Great video Tommy, but I would tell the folks to calibrate there saw first.
MrAlittle5150
Why wouldn't people have their saws calibrated?
@@ThekiBoran Miter saw get nocked around and out of adjustment. So you need to make sure your saw is at 90 degrees when it says 90 degrees. That mean the blade is horizontal and vertical 90 degrees exact measurement.
@@ThekiBoran If you have a sliding or reciprocating saw, single or double -- they need to be calibrated
@@raicebannon1936
Yes, I'm a finish carpenter, I check my miter saws for square frequently.
"SAWSET PROTRACTOR" is the most accurate miter finder out there. No Math. No gimmick.
Do the comparison.
Sawset Tools ok you mention this in a lot pf videos , now can i get a discount?
@@OmarGarcia-bi7jq Go to Sawset.ca send me info.
How do I buy this amazon says feb 27 2022. To South Carolina. I think an ark could be built faster.
Why does the molding get turned upside down when cutting it?
I need to see those cut on A sloped ceiling or where one piece is coming down at an angle then meets a straight piece…
Miter Saw says No Hands Here.
Instructor holds hand there...
Youre right. His hands are super close to the saw. One little slip and its goodbye fingers.
Normally these videos are pretty good at explaining things, but this one would not exactly be of much help to a non-carpenter.
We (and I'm talking about the builders, and other carpenters I work with) cut crown flat - easier to adjust for angle variations that way.
To get tuned-in to the proper way to cut crown cut some test pieces and mark them accordingly - ex: outside corner/left; top/bottom; etc, etc. - in no time at all you'll get the hang of it (and only have wasted a couple hundred dollars of crown in the process!!).
I once had a guy want to tell him, over the phone, how to cut crown moulding - good luck with that!! Ain't gonna happen!!
Finally someone who actually do it for living like myself.
Look up Larry Haun video series on crown. The BEST and easiest presentation on cutting crown. He’s got a process where you don’t need to think which way the saw direction goes. Always cut in the actual position upside down.
Serious question from a novice: Why not cut the inside corner the same way as the outside corner? I sincerely don't understand why you would have one piece of crown butted up square (w/ a straight cross cut) against the inside corner, and then do all that work manually coping behind the adjoining piece of crown? Seems like a ton of extra work with little benefit in terms of quality. What am I missing?
when yer doin this job, yer dealin with the 4th, 5th and 6th dimensions son. dont question it
Hard to keep track of which piece is getting cut. Like watching a ball and cups magic trick at 1:42.
31.6 inside corners
I dont think you went into enough detail. Teach how to measure for each section. It's tough to make it all fit together.
Also when the inside or outside corner is not 90 degrees.
Tough to make it fit together if you don’t know what you’re doing.
Measure end to end....bozo !
Tip: Always make relief cuts before doing a coping cut. That will eliminate mistakes as we have noticed. I am surprised a master carpenter didn't do it.
He didn't fk it up either.....how bout dat?
william skrainski He actually did. Did you even see the cope he tried to show? There is a reason the video ended so quickly. It looked terrible.
I still don’t understand how he did that butt cut for the inside corner, I’ve followed what he did exactly and it just doesn’t work at all
Sanding disc and grider. Much easier
What do you mean? Instead of cutting the leading edge you sand off the backside?
So that's base board? Or is it quarter round? It's definitely one of them
It's baseround-quarterboard
Did the old switcheroo with the actual board he cut.
People that add an "r" to the word saw bother me.
Takes a lot more than that to bother me. :)
@@robertf6344 Reading "People that add an "r" to the word saw bother me" bothers you...
They ordered a pizzer after they filmed this scene.
I've been trimming homes for over 30 years and not once have I ever stood my grown-up 145 degrees I've always laid it down and I cut from left to right
He made it look as easy as putting jam on a sandwich...lol
There is an easier way, the saw will cut the bevel as well as the 45. I do have to say that is some accurate coping saw cutting though.
To me that seems like two variables in the setup, how is that easier? Genuinely curious, not trying to be an ass.
It requires two adjustments of the saw for every cut with it flat. Nested is faster only swinging the saw.
I use 8,5" saw on job. Not 12" like him. I cut flat with compound cut and cope with jig saw not with hand saw. I will change it now when I sow video. Thanks to let me know. Question. What you do when ceiling is uneven and miter is say 3 degree of and crown is for example maple, so you can not use hand saw. Expert I'm waiting for answer.
Inside and outside corners can often be tight fitted by simply moving joint up or down. Leave last 2' or so from corners un-nailed until joint is fitted.. Glue outside joints and pin together with 18 or 23 gauge gun. Set scarf joints so you are not looking into joint from most common point of view.
Slide compounds are not the most accurate as the slides can bend slightly as you load forever down.. If you do use make sure you are loading forever straight towards cut and not 90° downward. Always look straight at profile horizontally when cutting cope or your angle may not be properly removed to allow it to cradle into other piece. Some trim guys cut coping as much as 45° to the reverse of initial miter cut to make sure pieces mate.. This is a bit much tho... Theoretically a 90° square cut would work.. But not in reality.
Also glue skarf joints. Use a jig block to make marks on wall where crown should be. If you cut crown like he did, you may want to mark work a pencil on saw where to hold trim if crown is large or has a small lip making accuracy difficult.
@@claytonschmidt78 Man thank you for answer. I was ironic in my comment. I'm not ironic now as you evidently spent time to answer. I developed my style and use it already 15 years like self employed and before 5 years like employee. Compound cut and jig saw. However it would take me 1 hour to explain my style and what I do. I'm thinking to made cd for sale about it. I do not know miter inside joints and it is not at end of my mind to try to do it. I have enough of outside joints. I have portfolio to prove that I know what I'm doing when is crown in question.
Buy yourself and angle finder tool, a lot of inside and outside corners arent actually 90 degrees. Save yourself a lot of headaches
What's a sar? ;)
Watching him cope😊 Me coping🤦♂️😢
I cant believe he is doing a coping cut. Anyone that can operate a 12in mitre saw should able to do an inside mitre. Better to show that inside corners are always full of drywall mud, and never square, and how to make that mitre look good. But it is neat to see old school procedures now and then
If you can cope; it's faster. M.D.F. crown, especially. Cut it tight. I have met some guys that don't know what a coping saw is. If it's pre-finished material on cabs, then I do inside miters. Once again, ( different strokes.)
darkmatter972
Ask a pro, coping is better.
I'll just pay someone to do it.
Wonder what bob veehlah will think
Ummm... "Double Compound Chop Saw" together with the table of angle and bevel Numbers and done.
youngsters I'm the business do yourself a favor and invest in that saw. No up side down or back and forth. just set the crown flat , set your angles and bevels accordingly and move on. No head games or old school cures.
Love this old house and forever will be a fan so no disrespect.
what are the angles for an outside and inside angles? 45° angles dont work. ther are two angle settings per cut im guessing..
+chugginbeers goondar 22.5
Fk that you have to swing the table and tilt the blade everytime you make an opposing cut.
william skrainski As opposed to having jigs fastened to your saw for every cut??
One box made in the beginning of the job.....You're wasting my time fkn with the saw that much,,,,down the road you go!
What saw is he using
killerjakeboy10
I think it's a Festool.
1:25
The cameraman doesn’t show all the bad cuts thrown over to the side
You need to lay your crown flat and actually use your bevel/mitre settings properly. Cutting like he is here without the use of crown stops makes for errors and sloppy mitres.
That's what I was thinking.
Exactly. It's almost impossible to convince people otherwise.
He is using a compound slider, but still does it old-school. I know an old guy that refuses to adapt to the new. I prefer the new.
I make a jig specifically for the crown I’m using, and I don’t cut it flat. I have never had a problem getting perfect results.
Without a doubt. They do make stops for your crown mold width. Once set it will be exact for the rest of the job.Always glue your joints.
1:57 why didn’t he use the same piece he has just cut? I did the exact same thing and it doesn’t work!
Pool references
Wife wants me to do this ...😒
What a goofball. He must have stock in a caulk company.
I'd love to see him attempt some stain grade joints. HAHA
So.. us professional finish carpenters cut crown laying down. The way he is showing is correct it's just outdated.
scaf cut on my sueaw.
Sonny boy
This guy Tom Silva has a New England accent. He may be from Maine or Massachusetts somewheres.
inside cope.... reaLLY?
This is great in theory, but in most homes you'll make your cuts and then find out that your wall angles did not total 90 degrees, but were in reality maybe 88 degrees, or 92 degrees. Crown mouldings take patience, and practice.
it is easier if the wood is laid flat and the bevel set to 34. and mitre 31.6
738polarbear nah, nested with a jig is pro
No ,thats the amateur way .
+destruction123 he is right you know my dad is a trim carpenter/cabinet maker and they are doing the lazy cheater way good for track homes but frowned upon in custom homes
+Travis Vaughan I would explain the "hows" and "whys" but you don't have a clear understanding of trim carpentry.
+destruction123
Cut it flat and easy. Jigs are never needed for cutting crown.
Someone please explain why the scarf cut is on an angle? Why not straight through, the result is the same no?
If you do it, you will see. The pieces are blended much better w/ the angled cut as the seam.
+oo0Spyder0oo If you simply butt 2 pieces of wood together with straight 90 degree cuts, the visible seam not only looks terrible and "cheap".........but as the wood expands & contracts over time, that seam will become AN UGLY GAP. When you mitre the seams, the seam is practically invisible, and even with expansion & contraction of the wood over time, the 2 pieces of wood are OVERLAPPED, so any gap caused by expansion & contraction over time, will only be very little, and the OVERLAP helps to hide it. It is the professional way of doing this. You should NEVER simply butt 2 pieces of "finish wood" together in any project.
Howabouthetruth Thanks for the info, I can visualize what you're saying. Another handy tip to remember, cheers.
You will have more surface area to glue and nail, making it stronger.
also, you can angle the cut away from the area the joint will most likely been seen from, thus better concealing the joint. This takes a little forethought in deciding which direction you go with the trim (from which corner on a wall).
Well that was less that helpful. One guy rushing through the cuts like it all makes perfect sense, and the other "getting wood" watching him do it. How about tips on taking measurements? What angle are you doing your coping cut? What's the best area to nail it in? Anyone can slap some molding on the chop saw and cut.
Sig Guy ppypyq
?
Sig Guy
Agreed, this is a useless and crappy tutorial.
It's only helpful if you have an extremely expensive mitre saw! If you have already spent that amount of money on a saw, the chances are you already know what you are doing!
so much easier with a grinding wheel but who am I
The scarf joint and inside corner are fine and in an ideal world you would have 90 degree outside corners but being on this old house you know that doesn't happen much. This is somewhat misleading to a person that has no knowledge of remodeling and older home or even a newer one.
William Gabbard
That's why there are dozens of videos that show how to do almost any construction task. Now be quiet and drink your milk.
Not one of these videos say where to messer from!
When the wall corners aren't 90 degrees you have to dial it in to make it perfect. Why not discuss that ? You just cant cut two pieces at 45 degrees and have them line up perfectly when the corner is 92 degrees...or 88 degrees. Yeah for a ianted molding you can slop it in with caulk but if you are doing with a bare/stained wood you dont have that option.
kirk58
If diy'ers do their own crown they discover that.
The scarf joint I should show the jerk that invented that patch nightmare they never look good after calk and paint and I have to remove mine. It’s awful absolutely the thing that stands out. He made it 8 inches at least across. So now I have to hire someone who can do it beautifully. What happened to measure twice and cut once.