Great job resurrecting that old Proto. Don't forget to add some lube to the shoulder of the anvil where it meets the cover plate. Thanks for the video.
Once pulled one of these "Proto" 3/8th. ratchets out of a boats bilge, one big pear shaped with a handle glob of rust. Threw in rust solution, wire brushed it, dismantled it to find all small parts gone to pure rust. Found in those days a "Craftsman" rebuild kit was a near fit, little file work, worked well again. Wasn't pretty, but I still own it, and I'm 67. Plan to do nickel plate restore in the near future (maybe!).
9:43, I thought I was ready to start one of these restorations. I've got an old grinder with a pad mounted to it, I've got a few cool ratchets,.......but no chicken. I forgot the chicken.
I'm with you on using grease, I just use a general purpose grease in my ratchets and that keeps them sweet in addition to using them properly not abusing them, if l have to swing on anything I get out the breaker bar. I did used to know an old time mechanic when l was training and he would leave his ratchets over the weekend soaking in a jar of ATF , he swore by that, never tried it myself. 👍🏻
I have heard that before, kind of like I was told to keep your wooden handle hammer in a bucket of water over night, my dad said that was an stupid, dad said if you where in a pinch you could do that once but you should fix it right and not worry about it later!
@@djstoolrestorations I well l never heard of that before, l guess it made the wood swell and tighten it up to tide you over in a pinch. I'll remember that one.
So. What is the best made ? Koken seems to think you're holding it and it just needed to be Kicked up a little. It's still the best of the best. The BL is a phosphoric type dip. Ospho blue from Brownells would work well after you glass beaded down that glitter.Parts are and always will be around. You won't need any parts unless you're one of those dorks that uses pipes and hammers instead of a real breaker bar.
dj have you ever come across a Proto rachet where the main gear is loose I the plate holes and slopes around? If so how did you fix it? Also if you peen the selector switch is it done on the outside or the inside? I've never done it before. Thanks for any info.
Are you talking about this model 4259, if your are I have not, and I have peen it from the outside. If you want me to I will take it apart and look at is again, better yet I will find one in worse condition are play with it!
I have rebuilt dozens of old ratchets, numerous brands through the years, a number of them Proto brand. That one is not the industial version. By that i do not mean suited for industrial/trades use. I am speaking of finish only. Indusrial tools are not plated, flat/satin black in color and due to the lack of plating, easily rust. Proto calls all of their tools Proto Professional. They at one time, and maybe still do call their best finish mechanic tools Proto 500 series, high chrome, high polished mirror finish equal in every way to Snap-on and others of the like. When i do a pear head like that one, i use a combination of solvent and rags, and the wheel on the bench grinder. Selector knobs like rhat one has i never remove. Removal would be a mistake. Once complete, like i heard you do, the selector is moved to a straight up/vertical position to load the pawls and springs in, usually after loading the drive wheel in. Following that, I cram as much heavy grease into that cavity of parts as i can. I then reinstall the gut cover and screw it down. Grease will squeeze out of both the front and back sides upon final assembly. I wipe off the excess and keep spinning the drive nub in both directions back and forth continuing to wipe off the excess grease until no more grease is expelled from the head. At that point, the rebuild is complete. These old ratchets are in no way fine tooth and admittedly corse by todays standards. However, the design is bulletproof, and as you said, easily serviced with a new gut kit should anything break, and will easily outlast the user even under heavy use. I would not call this design my favorite ratchet, however i have at least one or two in every drive size and do use them frequently. I have no complaints about any aspect of their design, including the low tooth count making them a little coarser feel than a fine tooth ratchet in use. To this day identical ratchets are still made in every drive size, including at least 3/4" and possibly even 1" drive. I have personally never had a Proto ratchet of this design fail. The only ones of that design i have ever known to fail were 1/2" drive, long handle, and was told by the guys needing repair that the ratchets failed because they were being cheatered and being significantly abused when they failed. This was in commercial construction use and a very harsh environment. These are damned good and reliable ratchets that will take a lot of hard use and just keep on delivering for their owners/users.
I do not packet it full of grease just because of how I use grease at work, but I know that there is not a high rpm so no expansion, so would not hurt and I really like your comment!!!! always good to hear others and how they think and do, that is how I learn and get ideas!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Less or more grease, the ratchet will perform the same. For me, it is the sound of the gear as it engages the pawls and I believe they also feel smoother in use. Thanks for sharing your rebuild.
Great job resurrecting that old Proto. Don't forget to add some lube to the shoulder of the anvil where it meets the cover plate. Thanks for the video.
Copy that!
you practically resurrected this old guy. good job.
Thanks!
That came out really well. Great watching.
Glad you enjoyed it
Once pulled one of these "Proto" 3/8th. ratchets out of a boats bilge, one big pear shaped with a handle glob of rust. Threw in rust solution, wire brushed it, dismantled it to find all small parts gone to pure rust. Found in those days a "Craftsman" rebuild kit was a near fit, little file work, worked well again. Wasn't pretty, but I still own it, and I'm 67. Plan to do nickel plate restore in the near future (maybe!).
I have not tried nickel plating but maybe!!!!!!!
You can still get rebuild kits for those 24 tooth pear head ratchets for cheap. Around $10-20 Same exact ratchet design for nearly 100 years now
@@johnnyolson258 You are right, I think they are the easiest to rebuild!
Looks great
Thanks!
Great video as always!
The B or BL indicates it’s an industrial finish. Or was until you polished it lol.
If you see G on snap it’s industrial finish
Thanks, I do not run across that kind of finish very often, but I will be looking for it now.!!
I have one brand new in the box, is why I’m watching your video. Not sure when it was made?
Hard to tell, they still make this design!
9:43, I thought I was ready to start one of these restorations. I've got an old grinder with a pad mounted to it, I've got a few cool ratchets,.......but no chicken. I forgot the chicken.
I am always cooking outside, in the pit, smoker, or grill.
Life is good @@djstoolrestorations , Life is good
I'm with you on using grease, I just use a general purpose grease in my ratchets and that keeps them sweet in addition to using them properly not abusing them, if l have to swing on anything I get out the breaker bar.
I did used to know an old time mechanic when l was training and he would leave his ratchets over the weekend soaking in a jar of ATF , he swore by that, never tried it myself. 👍🏻
I have heard that before, kind of like I was told to keep your wooden handle hammer in a bucket of water over night, my dad said that was an stupid, dad said if you where in a pinch you could do that once but you should fix it right and not worry about it later!
@@djstoolrestorations I well l never heard of that before, l guess it made the wood swell and tighten it up to tide you over in a pinch. I'll remember that one.
So. What is the best made ? Koken seems to think you're holding it and it just needed to be Kicked up a little. It's still the best of the best. The BL is a phosphoric type dip. Ospho blue from Brownells would work well after you glass beaded down that glitter.Parts are and always will be around. You won't need any parts unless you're one of those dorks that uses pipes and hammers instead of a real breaker bar.
Thanks!
I think it was black oxide on it.
I think you are right!
Let's see the Ratchet collection👌👌
I will try a toolbox tour next weekend, do not get your hopes up because almost all mine are hogde-podge mix of tools.!!!!!! Mostly used.
dj have you ever come across a Proto rachet where the main gear is loose I the plate holes and slopes around? If so how did you fix it? Also if you peen the selector switch is it done on the outside or the inside? I've never done it before. Thanks for any info.
Are you talking about this model 4259, if your are I have not, and I have peen it from the outside. If you want me to I will take it apart and look at is again, better yet I will find one in worse condition are play with it!
What Dremel bit are you using?
I will show you what I was using on a video I will post Wednesday.
I prefer super lube to grease in most ratchets. I kinda favor the old proto try it out it may grow on you!
I have, and it works fine, but I so use to using the Mobil brand grease, I like it!
I have rebuilt dozens of old ratchets, numerous brands through the years, a number of them Proto brand. That one is not the industial version. By that i do not mean suited for industrial/trades use. I am speaking of finish only. Indusrial tools are not plated, flat/satin black in color and due to the lack of plating, easily rust. Proto calls all of their tools Proto Professional. They at one time, and maybe still do call their best finish mechanic tools Proto 500 series, high chrome, high polished mirror finish equal in every way to Snap-on and others of the like.
When i do a pear head like that one, i use a combination of solvent and rags, and the wheel on the bench grinder. Selector knobs like rhat one has i never remove. Removal would be a mistake. Once complete, like i heard you do, the selector is moved to a straight up/vertical position to load the pawls and springs in, usually after loading the drive wheel in. Following that, I cram as much heavy grease into that cavity of parts as i can. I then reinstall the gut cover and screw it down. Grease will squeeze out of both the front and back sides upon final assembly. I wipe off the excess and keep spinning the drive nub in both directions back and forth continuing to wipe off the excess grease until no more grease is expelled from the head. At that point, the rebuild is complete.
These old ratchets are in no way fine tooth and admittedly corse by todays standards. However, the design is bulletproof, and as you said, easily serviced with a new gut kit should anything break, and will easily outlast the user even under heavy use. I would not call this design my favorite ratchet, however i have at least one or two in every drive size and do use them frequently. I have no complaints about any aspect of their design, including the low tooth count making them a little coarser feel than a fine tooth ratchet in use. To this day identical ratchets are still made in every drive size, including at least 3/4" and possibly even 1" drive. I have personally never had a Proto ratchet of this design fail. The only ones of that design i have ever known to fail were 1/2" drive, long handle, and was told by the guys needing repair that the ratchets failed because they were being cheatered and being significantly abused when they failed. This was in commercial construction use and a very harsh environment.
These are damned good and reliable ratchets that will take a lot of hard use and just keep on delivering for their owners/users.
I do not packet it full of grease just because of how I use grease at work, but I know that there is not a high rpm so no expansion, so would not hurt and I really like your comment!!!! always good to hear others and how they think and do, that is how I learn and get ideas!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Less or more grease, the ratchet will perform the same. For me, it is the sound of the gear as it engages the pawls and I believe they also feel smoother in use.
Thanks for sharing your rebuild.
@@herbholmberg4474 Thank you for the kind comment, I read and answer all, though sometimes I answer late because I work a lot!