3 Improvements for Lead Rope Solo Setup (Rope, Anchor, GriGri Orientation)
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- Опубліковано 17 лис 2023
- 3 Improvements for Lead Rope Solo Setup (Rope, Anchor, GriGri Orientation)
Welcome to Ultimate Survival Gear, today I am out in Red River Gorge to work on my lead rope solo technique, and I have several improvements to implement.
As usual, here is the list of the gear used:
Belay device - Petzl GriGri Plus. (amzn.to/3ENrH95) Keep in mind, It is a belay device and is not designed for LRS. Also, make sure it is on "lead" setting, for easier slack.
Rope - Edelrid Swift Protect Pro 8.9mm Dry Rope. (alnk.to/ei0rSAa) 8.9 vs 9.6 seems to be a solid improvement, although it is a personal preference because thinner rope will slip more than a thicker one.
Traction pulley - Petzl MicroTraxion. (amzn.to/451a403) You can get away without using micro traction pulley, but you would have to compensate for the weight of the rope.
Black Diamond Zone Harness - alnk.to/7fo8E10
Petzl Djinn Axess Quickdraw - alnk.to/4qK0WYw
This is a 5.10a sport route called, Perverse Intentions on Phantasia wall.
Improvement #1: Figure eight tree anchor. (although mine could have been way better)
Pros: prevents rope drag and sagging. No need for heavy carabiner, lighter setup. Cons: a little harder to untie compared to a carabiner, but pros outweigh the cons.
Improvement #2: Thinner rope.
Pros: Easer to take slack, lighter setup. Cons: Will have more slip during the fall. This is the improvement for the LRS setup, but might not be for everyone.
Improvement #3: GriGri orientation change to up side down (still loaded the same way though).
Pros: A lot easier to give yourself slack! Huge noticeable difference. Cons: None, except maybe a bit more awkward to descend.
Thanks for watching, God bless!
Suddenly everyones doing the upside down grigri with a trax, tedious compared to just an Eddy and no other device.
I never heard about Eddy before, but I will definitely check it out! It is indeed a very tedious setup, so much effort goes into rope management.
@@UltimateSurvivalGear I climb with a Maxim 9.9 in a customized pack, an unmodded Eddy, no other device and no backup knots. In fact I consider backup knots high risk if not outright dangerous. I have around 5k single and multipitch trad pitches in on this system and can do longer multipitch routes roughly a 1/3 faster than I can with a partner.