If you enjoyed this video or some of my other content please consider pressing the SUBSCRIBE button and hitting the BELL next to it so you get notified when I release a new video. You will find all the links and information you want in the expanded video description. If you have any questions or comments please leave them below and you can always come find me on social media via the links in the description. You can also see my behind the scenes video logs on my Patreon at www.patreon.com/worldofwayne
I noticed the same problem as you with the fan & pulley. Thank you Wayne for the tip with the glue. Certainly works perfectly. Really enjoying building the iconic Ecto 1.
For those who want a bit more realism, the firing order for a 1959 Cadillac 390 engine (with cylinder 1-3-5-7 being the driver's side spark plugs and cylinder 2-4-6-8 being the passenger side) is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 on the distributer startin with the plug at 1 o'clock with the back of the engine being 12 o'clock. adjust HT leads as necessary. I would remove the air filter beforehand, as it seems you may get a bit better access to the cap. Enjoying the videos as usual Wayne, puts a smile into my days of self-quarantine.
Dont forget, the rotation is counter clockwise so from terminal 1 on the cap you go to the left for 8, then 4, then 3, then 6, then 5, then 7, then 2, then back to 1. This also means youll have some terminals on the passenger side of the distributor coming across to the driverside. I don't think you can do this with the tubing they give you as I don't think it will be long enough. Its a big reason why I am waiting for this issue to come in for me so I can find what size tubing they used to find a substitute online to use and make my own.
Very fiddly issue. Took me over an hour to attach the leads, due to my bad eyesight. Worse than trying to thread a needle. Lol. Your tips came in handy. Thanks Wayne.
Great Job, I realize it is a little late but, Gday Dave, The Number one Piston is always the one that is furthest to the front of the engine. That is, the Connecting Rod is always the one that is closest to the front end of the crankshaft, and therefore the cylinder head on that side will always be further forward than the opposite side. With GM engines, the numbering alternates from one side of the motor to the other as the connecting rods moves back along the crankshaft, whereas with Ford, they number 1 to 4 down one side, then 5 to 8 down the other side. As far as the correct Firing Order, there should be a Firing Order set of numbers cast into the Intake Manifold, either in front of the Carby, or behind. Manufacturers do this so us mechanics that are dealing with different motors all the time dont get it wrong. Also, it is done in raised letters so the blind mechanics arent discriminated against. If that isnt there, I will leave another more enlightened Member to answer that part of the question. Bruce, The Tassie Devil(le), 60 CDV Logged art woody Guest Re: Firing Order, ignition timing for 1954 - 62 « Reply #2 on: October 07, 2005, 08:09:09 AM » Without going down to the garage to check under my hood, I looked it up in 3 manuals-Chiltons, Motors Manual, and Cadillac Shop Manual all say 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. No.1 is first cyl. on right bank while looking under the hood (drivers side). I used this manual to wire mine & you can stand a nickle on its edge on the breather while idling.
Hi Wayne, a trick I used when building 1/24 scale models and I detailed up engines with pipe work...... I used very thin fuse wire cut shorter than the pipe... Eg. If pipe is 70mm I cut fuse wire to 65mm.... Feed fuse wire through pipe... In your case HT leads.... Then the HT lead becomes bendable because of fuse wire inside.... Hope this helps 👍
@@WorldofWayneUK That's what I did with all the tubes in my build. 15A works well in this instance, but you'll need a load of it. I went through two cards and could have done with more - especially as I ran out for the proton packs.
Something you may want to consider is having water slide decals made of the factory engine stickers. Such as the air cleaner, oil filter, and others. That would add a lot more realism too.
There is one on ebay already offered. Word of caution though they are printed on white water slide decal paper so you have to cut the decals out. The other thing is the oil filter housing decal I wouldn't recommend using it cause they used a photo of the decal when in fact the decal is a clear decal with white text. I myself will be trying to use a hobby knife to cut out the lettering but it is quite small. I was going to try and make a mask but I don't know if its possible. I hope one of the mod makers will offer this decal like it should be. I mainly got this set for the other decals such as the A/C decal and air cleaner decal.
If you want to bend and position the HT leads you could insert a piece of thin wire into the tube then bend as you see fit. Heat may just melt the tubes.
*Hi from France, I've been following you since the delorean (which I finished) I'm doing Ecto-1. Congratulations for your work (I can't wait for the terminator to arrive in France, no I'm not jealous... :D )*
This looks so challenging. I been watching all your videos on this car. I have never build any car model. This is my first one ever to build. Your videos help me but this looks very difficult
I routed mine to correct order and did a little trimming. I didn’t have to trim much because they already looked like my 1979 LTD as far as length and not laying on the valve covers
That engine looks amazing! I just started to weather mine and I might try and change the color of the spark plug wires as if they were replaced at some point in its life.
that's what I am doing. I am waiting for this issue to come in to see what size I need. I am thinking yellow or black wires those were pretty common aftermarket plug wire colors in the 80`s that had that orange/brown boots.
Hello Wayne, great video mate, what a fiddly one that was, Uh, I could never be an engineer, to much messing about for me, nice to watch you do it thou, Lee.
The ignition coil tidy is actually a Spark Plug Wire Loom. I had 2, 3 and 4 hole Looms on my muscle cars, keeps everything tidy and separate so no chance wires shorting.
Issues 7 through 10 and my number playe of sharpness +4 shipped! Should get it in a week. I think the US Postal system uses pack llamas.. The warehouse is only 70 miles from me :D
Hiya Wayne, I was wondering if those "tubes" are completely hollow. I belong to a modeling sight and I was wondering, how about inserting a small gauge floral arrangement wire into those tubes and shaping them around the engine contours? When I get mine, I'll try and let you know. Build on Brother....😎
12:40 - I've watched all your videos, and read through the instructions and still can't see/find where the other end of that pipe fits into? Do you know or have I missed something?
for all those fiddly little pipes have you tried to soften them by soaking them in hot water from the tap for a time? also looks like you forgot to take off the air filter to do the pipping hehe
In stage 7, you left the air filter loosely attached because you might need to remove it later. Now that you’ve done stage 12, do you think it’s ok to tighten that up or are you going to wait a bit longer?
When it comes to the plug wires, would it help to insert a wire that will fit in the tubing leaving the ends hallow to fit to the plugs? this way you can shape the plug wires and they will hold their shape I would think.
Having owned a car with v8 I can assure you that no V8 would run with the leads on the distributor like that. Need to be some from each side of the engine to each side of the dizzy. I bet you could find the correct configuration if Googled. Just a thought...
Hopefully this works. images.app.goo.gl/Z1zP2RwCGqsoWcjD8 If that link works that is a old diagram for a '59 Cadillac 390 showing the location on the distributor and the counter clockwise rotation of the rotor.
Well I came back to this stage tonight and got it out the way. I have a corneal disease which causes ghosting (oh how apt!) , nearest way I can describe is an old TV not quite tuned in correctly, and awaiting a type of contact lens to help which is now at the opticians but of course I can't go to collect it! But I try not to let the disease dictate what I do and persevered. Not my most enjoyable issue of a partwork haha. I know nothing about cars so why do we have two leads flying away not connected to anything?
That’s a very short 90 cm! Maybe you meant mm I’m probably going to find a firing order and put the leads on the correct towers of the distributor and maybe trim them a little for length As for being contoured, I doubt they were. My 70s and 80s cars weren’t and usually the wires were long enough to be run without drooping onto the exhaust or getting caught in other components
Mrs World of Wayne reminds me of a joke someone sent me years ago: supposedly this was on live TV news, but the forecast had been for snow the previous evening that never materialized. The female anchor turned to the male weather man and said, “where’s that eight inches you promised me last night?”
If you enjoyed this video or some of my other content please consider pressing the SUBSCRIBE button and hitting the BELL next to it so you get notified when I release a new video. You will find all the links and information you want in the expanded video description. If you have any questions or comments please leave them below and you can always come find me on social media via the links in the description. You can also see my behind the scenes video logs on my Patreon at www.patreon.com/worldofwayne
I noticed the same problem as you with the fan & pulley. Thank you Wayne for the tip with the glue. Certainly works perfectly. Really enjoying building the iconic Ecto 1.
For those who want a bit more realism, the firing order for a 1959 Cadillac 390 engine (with cylinder 1-3-5-7 being the driver's side spark plugs and cylinder 2-4-6-8 being the passenger side) is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 on the distributer startin with the plug at 1 o'clock with the back of the engine being 12 o'clock. adjust HT leads as necessary. I would remove the air filter beforehand, as it seems you may get a bit better access to the cap.
Enjoying the videos as usual Wayne, puts a smile into my days of self-quarantine.
Thanks for this Doc. I was looking for this info
Dont forget, the rotation is counter clockwise so from terminal 1 on the cap you go to the left for 8, then 4, then 3, then 6, then 5, then 7, then 2, then back to 1.
This also means youll have some terminals on the passenger side of the distributor coming across to the driverside. I don't think you can do this with the tubing they give you as I don't think it will be long enough. Its a big reason why I am waiting for this issue to come in for me so I can find what size tubing they used to find a substitute online to use and make my own.
Very fiddly issue. Took me over an hour to attach the leads, due to my bad eyesight. Worse than trying to thread a needle. Lol. Your tips came in handy. Thanks Wayne.
Wayne. Great video as always. I had to look up ht leads. Lol.
Great Job, I realize it is a little late but, Gday Dave,
The Number one Piston is always the one that is furthest to the front of the engine. That is, the Connecting Rod is always the one that is closest to the front end of the crankshaft, and therefore the cylinder head on that side will always be further forward than the opposite side.
With GM engines, the numbering alternates from one side of the motor to the other as the connecting rods moves back along the crankshaft, whereas with Ford, they number 1 to 4 down one side, then 5 to 8 down the other side.
As far as the correct Firing Order, there should be a Firing Order set of numbers cast into the Intake Manifold, either in front of the Carby, or behind. Manufacturers do this so us mechanics that are dealing with different motors all the time dont get it wrong. Also, it is done in raised letters so the blind mechanics arent discriminated against.
If that isnt there, I will leave another more enlightened Member to answer that part of the question.
Bruce,
The Tassie Devil(le),
60 CDV
Logged
art woody
Guest
Re: Firing Order, ignition timing for 1954 - 62
« Reply #2 on: October 07, 2005, 08:09:09 AM »
Without going down to the garage to check under my hood, I looked it up in 3 manuals-Chiltons, Motors Manual, and Cadillac Shop Manual all say 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. No.1 is first cyl. on right bank while looking under the hood (drivers side). I used this manual to wire mine & you can stand a nickle on its edge on the breather while idling.
Ahh excellent. Thanks for this
Hi Wayne. Plug wires look good just like they are.
Your vids are awesome Wayne hope all is well in the U.K take care bud
Hi wayne your keeping me intertained every day in hospital love your videos keep up the good work
Hi Wayne, a trick I used when building 1/24 scale models and I detailed up engines with pipe work...... I used very thin fuse wire cut shorter than the pipe... Eg. If pipe is 70mm I cut fuse wire to 65mm.... Feed fuse wire through pipe... In your case HT leads.... Then the HT lead becomes bendable because of fuse wire inside.... Hope this helps 👍
Excellent idea. Thank you
@@WorldofWayneUK That's what I did with all the tubes in my build. 15A works well in this instance, but you'll need a load of it. I went through two cards and could have done with more - especially as I ran out for the proton packs.
That's a great idea! Where can I get fuse wire from?
@@joshuabooth8853 on line or local hardware store 👍
Great idea! I wouldn't go to sharp on the corners though.. never seen an ignition wire that would bend 90 degrees without shorting.
Excellent video and loving the build
Great video. It gave me an idea about wiring management when wiring my 1:25 scale model engines.. Thanks for posting.
Something you may want to consider is having water slide decals made of the factory engine stickers. Such as the air cleaner, oil filter, and others. That would add a lot more realism too.
There is one on ebay already offered. Word of caution though they are printed on white water slide decal paper so you have to cut the decals out. The other thing is the oil filter housing decal I wouldn't recommend using it cause they used a photo of the decal when in fact the decal is a clear decal with white text. I myself will be trying to use a hobby knife to cut out the lettering but it is quite small. I was going to try and make a mask but I don't know if its possible. I hope one of the mod makers will offer this decal like it should be. I mainly got this set for the other decals such as the A/C decal and air cleaner decal.
@@Milner62 Do we know we are not getting official decals yet?
Great vid all ways like the detailed videos
If you want to bend and position the HT leads you could insert a piece of thin wire into the tube then bend as you see fit. Heat may just melt the tubes.
I had the same idea, I didn't see your comment. Sorry wasnt trying to steal your idea. Lol
*Hi from France, I've been following you since the delorean (which I finished) I'm doing Ecto-1. Congratulations for your work (I can't wait for the terminator to arrive in France, no I'm not jealous... :D )*
It's available now in France through Agora models
@@WorldofWayneUK *I haven't seen him yet... I think I'll go look for him. Thank you (Knock Knock ...Sarah Connor?)*
This looks so challenging. I been watching all your videos on this car. I have never build any car model. This is my first one ever to build. Your videos help me but this looks very difficult
I routed mine to correct order and did a little trimming. I didn’t have to trim much because they already looked like my 1979 LTD as far as length and not laying on the valve covers
That engine looks amazing! I just started to weather mine and I might try and change the color of the spark plug wires as if they were replaced at some point in its life.
that's what I am doing. I am waiting for this issue to come in to see what size I need. I am thinking yellow or black wires those were pretty common aftermarket plug wire colors in the 80`s that had that orange/brown boots.
Hello Wayne, great video mate, what a fiddly one that was, Uh, I could never be an engineer, to much messing about for me, nice to watch you do it thou, Lee.
The ignition coil tidy is actually a Spark Plug Wire Loom. I had 2, 3 and 4 hole Looms on my muscle cars, keeps everything tidy and separate so no chance wires shorting.
Thank you so much
Hi Wayne I think the pulley behind the fan if the wrong way round
Issues 7 through 10 and my number playe of sharpness +4 shipped! Should get it in a week. I think the US Postal system uses pack llamas.. The warehouse is only 70 miles from me :D
hi if the pipes are hollow use some wire inside it may work
Hiya Wayne, I was wondering if those "tubes" are completely hollow. I belong to a modeling sight and I was wondering, how about inserting a small gauge floral arrangement wire into those tubes and shaping them around the engine contours? When I get mine, I'll try and let you know. Build on Brother....😎
Lol. Check out tomorrows vid. It's in the playlist now
12:40 - I've watched all your videos, and read through the instructions and still can't see/find where the other end of that pipe fits into? Do you know or have I missed something?
Apparently its a vent pipe. It doesn't go anywhere
I would paint all of them flat black
Engineering spaghetti style 👍
i watched Adam Savage doin his build of this build as well great entertainment
I'll have to look that one up. Too bad UA-cam won't let you put links in the comments anymore
I watched that too, straight in at the deep end. He modifies and weathers everything. Awesome.
Same here. I cant wait to see what his will look like since he is weathering his.
Looking great! Much more detail on this block compared to the Mustang 1:8
Just idea.You may of had it?Try a little thin stiff wire through the HT leads.They’ll be more ply able I done it to my Poucher models
I got my coffee
hi world of wayne
for all those fiddly little pipes have you tried to soften them by soaking them in hot water from the tap for a time?
also looks like you forgot to take off the air filter to do the pipping hehe
They didn't really need it to be honest.
yeah I seen but I think it would make fallowing the diagram you showed latter a little smother if it was taken off.
In stage 7, you left the air filter loosely attached because you might need to remove it later. Now that you’ve done stage 12, do you think it’s ok to tighten that up or are you going to wait a bit longer?
It should be okay to do now
If it was me I would trim the cables after I get them all in.
Yeah I think I'll do that, trim them on the spark plug end
When it comes to the plug wires, would it help to insert a wire that will fit in the tubing leaving the ends hallow to fit to the plugs? this way you can shape the plug wires and they will hold their shape I would think.
Who are you printing on your 3D printer?
i now have spitfire issue 5 on order accepted a pound off deal from ebay
will you be leaving the hoses as is or cleaning them up?
I like the idea of threading fuse wire in them so I can bend them.
What type of tweezers do I need please as don't like the ones that came up packs 7-10
Check out my Amazon store at bit.ly/worldofwayne the ones I use are in there.
Having owned a car with v8 I can assure you that no V8 would run with the leads on the distributor like that. Need to be some from each side of the engine to each side of the dizzy. I bet you could find the correct configuration if Googled. Just a thought...
If you could that would be grand
@@WorldofWayneUK www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.conceptcarz.com%2Fview%2Fphoto%2F313637%2C13387%2F1959-chevrolet-corvette-scaglietti-coupe_photo.aspx&psig=AOvVaw1GmV12w4OadjltLnAnyP7d&ust=1585129988270000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=0CAIQjRxqFwoTCPDr9srrsugCFQAAAAAdAAAAABAI
Try looking here. best I can do.
Thanks Bob
Hopefully this works.
images.app.goo.gl/Z1zP2RwCGqsoWcjD8
If that link works that is a old diagram for a '59 Cadillac 390 showing the location on the distributor and the counter clockwise rotation of the rotor.
Well I came back to this stage tonight and got it out the way. I have a corneal disease which causes ghosting (oh how apt!) , nearest way I can describe is an old TV not quite tuned in correctly, and awaiting a type of contact lens to help which is now at the opticians but of course I can't go to collect it! But I try not to let the disease dictate what I do and persevered. Not my most enjoyable issue of a partwork haha. I know nothing about cars so why do we have two leads flying away not connected to anything?
They will be soon
I would cut the plug wires shorter to make it look right. They are too long.
would it be easier to snip a piece of the cable
It,s even bigger/wider than the Delorean engine
I'm like
Wayne the firing order is not correct the way you have connected the HT leads
i just followed the pic :D
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I think you meant to say "When the shit hits the fan" go on be honest lol
Do those cables stay in pretty good, or would a dab of glue be good like when we did the cables on the delorean engine?
Nope they stay in fine
That’s a very short 90 cm! Maybe you meant mm
I’m probably going to find a firing order and put the leads on the correct towers of the distributor and maybe trim them a little for length
As for being contoured, I doubt they were. My 70s and 80s cars weren’t and usually the wires were long enough to be run without drooping onto the exhaust or getting caught in other components
lol
You know how you men are, always exaggerating where length is concerned 😉
Mrs World of Wayne 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Mrs World of Wayne 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Mrs World of Wayne reminds me of a joke someone sent me years ago: supposedly this was on live TV news, but the forecast had been for snow the previous evening that never materialized. The female anchor turned to the male weather man and said, “where’s that eight inches you promised me last night?”
👍👍😻😻
Your firing order isn't right.
I change it later