I'm going through this with a Woods RM42 in its rare Yamaha flavor -- the Yamaha RC-42 built by Woods for the Yamaha Terrapro. Very helpful! and painful...
@@thehandyoutdoorsman9014 it really is, especially dealing with that key. I'm still trying to get mine removed so I can get to the crossbar to weld it. My crossbar broke and German-Bliss wants $700 for that blade spindle assembly!
Thanks for being the pitfall learner for the rest of us. Hope you're able to get it rebuilt and up again quickly. I'm sure my County Line model will need something similar some day.
I struggled to get these off, couldn’t find anything on UA-cam so thought I would share. Finding out this had more issues than the eye could see. Hopefully it will be operational in 2 weeks ( waiting on parts).
Thanks guys. I’ve been looking at this thing for a few days trying to figure out how to remove it without breaking it. I’ll be giving the punch plan a try tomorrow.
Okay I went out this morning and spied the set of threaded holes beside the mounting holes. I removed the bolts, screwed them into the threaded holes until they snugged up. Then alternated back and forth between them turning each about 1/6 turn until it loosened up. All three popped right off. Then a light tap on the tapered cap and it cam right off too. This video was immensely as well as the added comments. Thanks again. Now if I can repair the rusted out deck.
Put the pully back onto the spindle and then slide on the bushing. Put the screws back into the holes on the bushing that match up with the pully and start screwing them together. Make sure to rotate between the 2 screws to pull the pully on straight. Hope this makes sense?
Yes makes sense. My problem is once I put the pulley on the spindle and line up the hub to put on it does not go on all the way for me to be able to get my screws in. Is there a trick to get the hub onto the pulley. I lined up the lock notch for lack of technical term.
@@ginaneal9765 had to remember what I did. The first one I had to spread the bushing a bit to make it slide onto the spindle. The other two I put a block of wood underneath the spindle and had to gently hammer the bushing on. Probably not the correct way but it worked.
I have the same mower with the same problem but cannot get the pulley to go down. I have had it oiled for around 4 months and still no go. I stripped out the threads on the top screws early then re tapped the cap for bigger bolts that also stripped out. My most recent attempt I tapped the cap holes out to 3/8 inch and they also stripped out. Would it do any good to heat the area around where the pulley is? Any replies appreciated.
John, not sure I can be of help as this was my first experience with this type of bushing. I would suggest commenting on Ken Fischmann thread as he seems to know more about this type of bushing. Read through the comments and you will see his response. Good Luck!
It's a taper bushing, if you pull on the pulley you just tighten the bushing even more. The easy way is to remove the 2 bolts, grab a large punch ( maybe an inch in diameter ) and give the pulley a couple of wacks down. It's a cast pulley so hit it near the bush an it'll pop right down. That will release the taper bush on top and it should slide off with a little effort. When reinstalling don't over torque the small bolts that pull the pulley on to the bushing and use a little Locktite on the bolts.
Thanks Ken, I should have asked the question first "how do I take this off" and it would have made it a lot easier. So with that said, my taper busing has spread apart some not allowing me to reinsert it back into the pulley. Whats the best way to get it back to the inner diameter of the pulley?
@@thehandyoutdoorsman9014 I just clean the bore from opposite the flange side, put the base of the taper in a good vise with a little padding and tighten her up making sure you don't close up the gap. A couple washers inserted into the gap saves a lot of screwing around and makes sure it doesn't close. You don't have to be spot on, just enough to start it in the bore, the bolts will draw it up no problem and use grade 8 hardware just in case. Ask me how I know. (lol)
Thanks so much!
This is the most informative UA-cam I have watched. Excellent presentation and covered all aspects of the job. THANKS
Happy to hear it was helpful!!
Nice! No need for aggravation or cussing during removal.
Glad it was helpful
I'm going through this with a Woods RM42 in its rare Yamaha flavor -- the Yamaha RC-42 built by Woods for the Yamaha Terrapro. Very helpful! and painful...
Glad you understand, unless your going through the process the procedure is hard to explain.
@@thehandyoutdoorsman9014 it really is, especially dealing with that key. I'm still trying to get mine removed so I can get to the crossbar to weld it. My crossbar broke and German-Bliss wants $700 for that blade spindle assembly!
What about getting the spindle itself to drop down so I can fix the bearings
Once the taper bushing comes off you should be able to unbolt the pully assembly to to get to the bushing.
Thanks for being the pitfall learner for the rest of us. Hope you're able to get it rebuilt and up again quickly. I'm sure my County Line model will need something similar some day.
I struggled to get these off, couldn’t find anything on UA-cam so thought I would share. Finding out this had more issues than the eye could see. Hopefully it will be operational in 2 weeks ( waiting on parts).
Very Helpful, thank you.
Your welcome!
Your video is very helpful...Thank You.
Your welcome.
Very helpful, thanks so much!!!
Your welcome!
Do you know where a person can buy the spindles at a reasonable price for a Woods rm59 finishing mower
Thanks guys. I’ve been looking at this thing for a few days trying to figure out how to remove it without breaking it. I’ll be giving the punch plan a try tomorrow.
Hope it works out for you, good luck!!
Okay I went out this morning and spied the set of threaded holes beside the mounting holes. I removed the bolts, screwed them into the threaded holes until they snugged up. Then alternated back and forth between them turning each about 1/6 turn until it loosened up. All three popped right off. Then a light tap on the tapered cap and it cam right off too. This video was immensely as well as the added comments. Thanks again. Now if I can repair the rusted out deck.
I had the same issue with my deck. Ended up going to my local Makers space and getting it fixed for around $100
This was helpful, so we had to replace pulley. Now how do we get hub back on pulley?
Put the pully back onto the spindle and then slide on the bushing. Put the screws back into the holes on the bushing that match up with the pully and start screwing them together. Make sure to rotate between the 2 screws to pull the pully on straight. Hope this makes sense?
Yes makes sense. My problem is once I put the pulley on the spindle and line up the hub to put on it does not go on all the way for me to be able to get my screws in. Is there a trick to get the hub onto the pulley. I lined up the lock notch for lack of technical term.
@@ginaneal9765 had to remember what I did. The first one I had to spread the bushing a bit to make it slide onto the spindle. The other two I put a block of wood underneath the spindle and had to gently hammer the bushing on. Probably not the correct way but it worked.
Got it, Thank you!
I have the same mower with the same problem but cannot get the pulley to go down. I have had it oiled for around 4 months and still no go. I stripped out the threads on the top screws early then re tapped the cap for bigger bolts that also stripped out. My most recent attempt I tapped the cap holes out to 3/8 inch and they also stripped out. Would it do any good to heat the area around where the pulley is? Any replies appreciated.
John, not sure I can be of help as this was my first experience with this type of bushing. I would suggest commenting on Ken Fischmann thread as he seems to know more about this type of bushing. Read through the comments and you will see his response. Good Luck!
When reinstalling the spindle to the deck, do you have a torque spec for the 4 bolts?
Sorry, I do not.
It's a taper bushing, if you pull on the pulley you just tighten the bushing even more. The easy way is to remove the 2 bolts, grab a large punch ( maybe an inch in diameter ) and give the pulley a couple of wacks down. It's a cast pulley so hit it near the bush an it'll pop right down. That will release the taper bush on top and it should slide off with a little effort. When reinstalling don't over torque the small bolts that pull the pulley on to the bushing and use a little Locktite on the bolts.
Thanks Ken, I should have asked the question first "how do I take this off" and it would have made it a lot easier. So with that said, my taper busing has spread apart some not allowing me to reinsert it back into the pulley. Whats the best way to get it back to the inner diameter of the pulley?
@@thehandyoutdoorsman9014 I just clean the bore from opposite the flange side, put the base of the taper in a good vise with a little padding and tighten her up making sure you don't close up the gap. A couple washers inserted into the gap saves a lot of screwing around and makes sure it doesn't close. You don't have to be spot on, just enough to start it in the bore, the bolts will draw it up no problem and use grade 8 hardware just in case. Ask me how I know. (lol)
Makes sense, great suggestion on the washer trick 👍