I’m just an amateur DYI guy, but I think you’d be better off with the original setup, instead of relocating the filters to the outside of the frame. Lots of work for little,gain, AND the risk is a massive oil leak with those rubber hoses added to the system. You’re the pro, and know what’s best, but I don’t likethose rubber hoses snaking over the frame. Also, why doesn’t anybody use line wrenches on fittings anymore. Simple open end wrenches can slip and round the hex corners of fittings.
I get it, I didn’t want to put it there either 🤷♂️. I think the setup is fine and I have little issue with the system as a whole. I can say that I have a similar filter system for my fuel filters and lift pump on my personal truck and it’s not being damaged by road gravel. It’s also located outside of the frame. I’m considering unbolting the oil filters and just welding the brackets to the frame to raise it up higher. I want two more inches
Plenty of vehicles with similar hoses. As for line wrenches, I've seen tests that show quality open end wrenches are less likely to round nuts than line wrenches. Line wrenches tend to be thin and flex. The thick jaws on open end wrenches don't flex as much. Torque Test Channel has done a few videos on wrenches including line wrenches. The result will probably surprise you.
Take this from somebody who has not only worked on vehicles since the early sixties but also did 40 Years of sheet metal. Turn that bracket over and mount the bracket with the table down against the frame first and then Mount the oil filter manifold to it and that will give you an extra three or four inches of space up against the frame. You also need to make sure that you put a deflector on that so that stuff coming off of the tires is not beating the hell out of the oil filters. You get a dent in those and you can easily get a pressure leak.
Can I add possible tack on each side bit by bit until solid. but yes adding too much to one side will cause distortion in the metal. AND clean the area before tacking, losts of contamination in the weld.
And you expect a thin weld not to fracture with constant heat and vibration, surely it would be better to get a new bracket from the manufacturer or get one made from a single piece of metal !!
The truck owner needs to fab up a rock shield for those filters. I’ve have suffered damage by some of the crazy junk falling off vehicles and slung by tires. List: mud flap bracket, rocks, 2x4s, garbage can, extension ladder, baby high chair, tree limb, toolbox, thermal coffee cup, tires, drive shaft, pipe, mufflers all sizes of nuts, bolts brackets, plus a whole zoo of dead animals.
@@geostro440 I see so many of you guys in the States with cracked windscreens, I'm just thinking if a stone flacks up off that front wheel it's enough to ruin you day if that filter gets punctured..easy to make
Exactly, a spacer block, quick and easy. If you have to weld it, at least bevel the edges, and run the welder down in line with the gap, not at right angle.
Ray ….. I think the inside of the frame mount is better as it will not allow stones to be kicked up from the wheel to hit the filters. Also, Aeroquip makes a adapter for your vice for putting those hoses together. They also make hose separators instead of using zip ties….. 🇺🇸👊🏼👊🏼✌🏼
I agree with the other comments, i dont like those filters hanging that low and exposed. Just taking unnecessary chances that are easily avoided with a better installation.
the bracket is just a basic generic mount, vulnerability is the realization and responsibility that lays with the guy who is mounting it. Placement is the key to proper access and protection from being struck, it's probably the first thing that should've come to mind.
My Air Dog fuel filters hang that low and have been for 18 years, never hit one yet, these are not rock crawlers as we have no rocks in Florida, they are work trucks so won't be dragging the frame
I would think a short vocational class on welding would be a great asset to your repairs. Welding only one side of the bracket leaves it for failure. Saying you are not a welder as an excuse to globe metal on a repair seems more like a DYI than a professional shop. That bracket developing a crack and falling off will have catastrophic results.
I sisnstalled the AMSOIL Dual Filter setup on my 1999 International 7.3 4700 . Excellent product and relatively easy to install. Of course I used the AMSOIL oil for the engine. Also did the transmission oil change to AMSOIL, laying on my back on gravel.
@@edjacobs8876 agree! Toyota used rubber lines for the oil cooler years back when they introduced the 2GR 3.5 and the degraded and ended up destroying many of what were otherwise rock solid engines. Oil and rubber are always a bad combo.
WIth the amount of rust on everything, cold galvanizing compound would work better than paint. I use Rustoleum in the 20oz spray can. That would require prep like making sure the grease and oil are cleaned off first so the compound adheres correctly and we know Ray ain't into all of that extra stuff. Hurry, hurry, hurry.
We call that a side stream filtration system in the commercial HVAC world. Just filtering a small portion at a time, it will eventually clean the system slowly without having to filter it all in one shot.
I welded, it helded. I have learned that especially with flux core welding you need to clean off the weld and slag every time you stop, even in between tacks.
I would have put some Poly-loom on the outside of those hoses before the zip-ties. I also would have sprayed the fittings with some sort of heavy duty metal protector like the one Amsoil makes to keep them from rusting as bad as the previous ones. Making future service easier. Plus the left over piece of that bracket on the other side of the filter mount had 2 holes. You could install a nice shield in front of the filters that wraps around the bottom to protect from road debris hitting the filters at some point, but still make it easily removeable for the yearly change. Just an "extra" thought, if it were my truck. I also would have done a "Clear Flood Mode" to prime the oil system instead of doing that sort of "dry start"
The placement of that bypass filter kit (as in poking below the chassis rail) gives me anxiety issues. I'd be watching the oil pressure gauge like a hawk everytime I went off road. (Edit) I'd wanna roll the bracket 180 degrees to get the whole assembly mounted higher up
Could have mounted the assembly higher. Could drag the ground being near the middle of the truck. This would make me not want to take it off road. But going over a curb could do it also. 😕May be a location under the hood would work better if there was some extra space. I put an external oil filter on a 73 T bird and mounted it under the hood. But the T bird was a big car with lots of room.
@@GaryH-pw9cm My brother sat under the hood of my father's 78 1/2 Chevy and did a tune-up in the rain without getting wet. Not an option on anything these days.
Don’t think this kit was designed with any “off road” in mind or they’ve got it written up in warranty/legal paper work that if you run this system and a leak develops from road debris and you seize the engine they can’t be held responsible. So why develop and include a $20 steel shield for the filters when a $0.05 piece of paper protects the company just as well
Do what you want, Ray; if the customer is satisfied and your happy with it, who cares? Me. I care. So here are few of things to consider for next time. 1. You dumped a lot of heat into that system especially welding on top of the aluminum, 2. there was a simpler method of adding a 1/4" or 3/8" plate spacer instead of chopping and welding, 3. anything galvanized or plated needs to be thoroughly cleaned before welding, those fumes are literally poisonous.
@@00recon Not quite, I’m thinking mustard gas is more a chlorine gas, burning galvanized coatings is supposed to make cyanide from what I’ve heard. I don’t know what the zinc coating on those brackets turns into when you burn it up.
Put in front of radiator. Most vehicles, including my truck has plenty of room in front and makes it very easy to change the filters from underneath. I know, some vehicles have air shrouds underneath but they are easy to remove.
@@fishin11 Not enough room in these trucks for that, the filter head is way too big to fit in that limited space, plus you’re blocking air flow from the transmission, air conditioner, intercooler, and radiator if you mount something like that in the grille.
Well being an Engineer by education.... we like toilet paper filters!!! I live near Stockton Ca. , where the designer and manufacturer of the Frantz Bypass Oil Filter system is located. It uses a roll of toilet paper as the filter element. There were many plumbing options. I always used their sandwich plate adapter. So you used the standard full flow oil filter..while it bypassing a portion of the oil to the toilet paper element.. The toilet paper element was changed every 1500 mile with a top of of a quart of oil. Full-flow filter was change every 6000mile. turbo and twin-turbo engines. No problems or sludge.. squeakie clean oil!!!!!
Years ago I learned when making those kinds of lines firstly to lube the line prior to threading the insert and then visually inspecting the inside of the line to ensure the fitting did not catch an edge and peel away the inside of the line. Do enough and it will happen.
Thought I recognized the voice, but when Ray panned up to her, I didn't recognize her initially once I saw her. Then when she turned away, her hair was pulled back into a ponytail.
I'd forgotten about these. I sold one of the first of these in the UK in the eighties when I was one of their first distributors in the country. Nice to see the improved design too.
Since you lost quite a bit from the second, sacrificial bracket, why not just cut off the short bent part and use the longer portion to extend the horizontal part of a normal bracket. You can then weld a much larger portion of each piece to the other and not have to deal with the downward bend making to hard to reach the nuts. Oh well, hindsight is 20/20! Especially when watching others! 🤣
I'm not sure how common speed bumps are in the US but over here those filters are hanging low enough to last about 1 speed bump if you drive a little too fast. But we got nasty speed bumps over here in the Netherlands.
Ray, i think you benefit tremendously from getting a tank of argon and some solid wire for your welder. Flux core is a lot harder process than MIG. Especially when you're trying to get your broken bolts out of engine blocks. I would bet you could weld a broken bolt once and be able to get it out instead of multiple tries to get the nut to stick t ok the broken bolt I've seen in other videos. ( the subaru engine is what I'm remembering)
You can mount those filters horizontally. I had this system on my Ram 2500 5.9L Cummins for many years(from 2005 or so to 2023). Removed it last year. Decided I didn't need it for the miles I put on the truck. They recommend filters be changed every 12 months anyway. Good idea if you drive 100k miles per year.IMPO. Not sure about the Duramax but I had mine mounted on the frame rail below the passenger seat area and it vibrated into the cab with a constant humming noise. Moved it from there to a plate mounted on the engine above the exhaust manifold. Worked there for most of its life until I removed it. It's a nice system and very well built. I have it here in a bucket and a set of filters if someone is interested in it.
@@madman432000 While you may not have had any problems with mounting it like that, Amsoil specifically says NOT to in their instructions. It doesn’t have to hang vertical, but they say not to do horizontal. I think a 45 degree angle is perfectly fine and if I remember right, they give a max degree angle for mounting.
@@ralfie8801 Ok, they may have changed the instructions since mine was installed, i know a 90° installation was fine at that time. Regardless Amsoil does not offer the dual remote kit for the Cummins anymore. I'm place of that they say just the single bypass standalone option with the full flow filter in the factory position. I know why too.
@@madman432000 That’s what I bought for my son’s Cummins several years ago. His has a ranch hand front bumper on it and he mounted the filter between the bumper and the right front fender liner. I’m pretty sure they don’t offer the dual kit anymore because they caused oil pressure problems just like the one for the Duramax does. I’m thinking they could overcome that problem by using 5/8” lines instead of the 1/2” ones they give you.
@@ralfie8801 correct, oil pressure was the issue. Start engine when cold and pressure would come up then drop to zero. If you waited 10-15 seconds pressure would return. First couple times it happened with me i shut it o off right away. Restart and oil pressure was fine. A previously things with even the stock filters, I've removed them and only 3/4 full, like some oil was pulled back into the block. I suspect it was an air bubble going through the system. When i mounted the system on the engine block above the factory filter location i didn't have that issue anymore.
A good idea to relocate those filters outside the chassis rail, BUT no protection from stones being thrown up by the front tyre. I saw too many filters punctured by flying stones on tractors, but at least they sprayed oil over the cabin glass so you stopped as soon as it happened.
Ordinarily when Ray is dealing with hand sweat, I giggle and think glad I don’t live down in Lantana anymore. Then I’m reminded on days like this, in Chicago. 98 degrees 70%+ humidity. 😂
Why must it be so low under the chassis? I guess it''s OK if you have nice smooth roads but any unexpected debris or need to detour over the kerb is probably going to get it.
Good instructional vid, as usual Ray, thanks...I'm gonn'a get one of those fer my F-250 6.7L Ford Diesel...Low mileage, 32,000 so this will be of optimal value coupled with the Amsoil Diesel 15W-40
Turn that bracket upside down to lift the filters 3 inches higher so they are not as exposed under that chassis. Leave a gap for welding the bracket (1 to 2 mm) or grind the side to an angle so the weld connects better and put something between the assembly and the bracket that doesn't conduct heat while welding.
Mr Ray, when you have two pieces of mild steel butted together, please weld a ‘V’ between them with a small edge (landing) on the bottom. Then weld and you’ll get good penetration. You can also use a back plate, but that’s serious overkill.
I was sitting in the waiting room at the dealership while my vehicle was getting an oil change. A lady was sitting across from me when the service manager approached her and asked her did she had any oil change receipts. She said no that her vehicle just indicated that it needed an oil change. The service manager said your vehicle is not equipped with an oil change indicator so how did you determine it needed an oil change. She said the red light flickered at a stop light and didn't go off until she got up to around 20 miles an hour. Apparently, she hadn't had her oil changed in 45,000 miles! Never understood why people ignore the simplest maintenance item.
The Just Brought In channel has a lot of cars like this... the results are often horrific as are many other deferred maintenance clips, especially when people refuse repairs.
I read some comments, on filter damage...surround filters or cover face of filters with a deflector plate (1/8") (also I personally love this addition, only would have used Teflon tape...BUT DIS AINT MY JOB & HOWEVER....YOU DID IT RIGHT RAY!!!)
@@bigsparky8888 You don’t use Teflon tape on those fittings, they’re not pipe threads. Each one of those fittings he screwed into the filter head and the engine adapter are a specific type of hydraulic fitting and have o rings on them for sealing. The hoses have tapered flat sealing surfaces that seal against the fittings for a perfect seal.
I’m commenting before watching the video, I’m thinking you should flip the bracket upside down to get the filter housing tucked higher up under the truck for better ground clearance on the filters themselves.
4:00 yea making your oil filtration system the lowest point on the vehicle sounds like a REALLLY good idea... should NOT be below the frame, hopefully continuing to watch you think about that too.
Why not just put a spacer in between the vertical piece of the stock bracket and the frame rail and use longer bolts to hold the bracket to the frame rail?
You asked for thoughts, my thoughts are 1, terrible placement of filters, open now to damage from road debris and going off road, best place is in the engine bay if possible. 2, by the look of the oil this xtra filter isn't working that great anyway. Changing just the filter every 5000 k's helps prolong an oil change, but not by much.
My remote filters are mounted on the rear panel of truck cab between cab and bed. Easy to get to/well protected from damage and gives me three more quarts of oil capacity.
Reading comments on the filters hanging low... I thought they were about the same height as the old ones, only they're on the outside of the frame. Possibly subject to more road hazards/debris. Maybe a guard/deflector added to negate that could be in order. I've not experienced these remote filters so I don't know. Will defer to Ray on that, he's the one who installed and is more familiar. Thanks for the Lauren/WifeUnit cameo too. She's looking lovely as ever. 😊
You should put 4 bolts in the frame & 4 bolts in the filter manifold, trucks tend to have a little rougher ride and could crack the bracket and could cause a catastrophic failure.
Plenty of good ideas below on the bracket build and positioning. But would it hurt to put a bit of flat black on the bracket and fittings? Just a quick hit? I know it won't make it perform any better, but it might look better longer with a value-added squirt of flat black for some added protection of the bare metals. As an added bonus, you get another spray product that you could throw when the cans go empty😄.
The filter canisters cannot stick down from the frame unprotected as they will be torn away by any and all obstacle the car encounters off-road. You could flip the bracket upside-down. It would be more difficult to tighten the screws (frame first then top), but the filter assembly would be higher and safe.
I've changed many hydraulic lines on agricultural equipment and they were never as easy to get to as this. I usually had to remove two or more lines to get to the line I wanted. And they were always messy.
Best chassis paint i've found is Rustoleum Rust Reformer. It's a nice Satin Black 'n looks like factory chassis paint but 1000% more durable....Ask me, I've used this spray paint on my everyday vehicle here in Michigan 'fer years now.....STOPS RUST Even on the chassis. Try it, you'll like it
I’m just an amateur DYI guy, but I think you’d be better off with the original setup, instead of relocating the filters to the outside of the frame. Lots of work for little,gain, AND the risk is a massive oil leak with those rubber hoses added to the system. You’re the pro, and know what’s best, but I don’t likethose rubber hoses snaking over the frame.
Also, why doesn’t anybody use line wrenches on fittings anymore. Simple open end wrenches can slip and round the hex corners of fittings.
I get it, I didn’t want to put it there either 🤷♂️. I think the setup is fine and I have little issue with the system as a whole. I can say that I have a similar filter system for my fuel filters and lift pump on my personal truck and it’s not being damaged by road gravel. It’s also located outside of the frame. I’m considering unbolting the oil filters and just welding the brackets to the frame to raise it up higher. I want two more inches
@@RainmanRaysRepairsIf you really want to protect the filters, you could fabricate a bash plate to cover them.
@@RainmanRaysRepairs We could all do with a couple of extra inches 🤪
@@RainmanRaysRepairs Thats what she said... 🤣😂😁
Plenty of vehicles with similar hoses.
As for line wrenches, I've seen tests that show quality open end wrenches are less likely to round nuts than line wrenches. Line wrenches tend to be thin and flex. The thick jaws on open end wrenches don't flex as much.
Torque Test Channel has done a few videos on wrenches including line wrenches. The result will probably surprise you.
Lauren is looking exceptionally cute today. What a hunny she is. You’re a lucky man, Ray.
Take this from somebody who has not only worked on vehicles since the early sixties but also did 40 Years of sheet metal. Turn that bracket over and mount the bracket with the table down against the frame first and then Mount the oil filter manifold to it and that will give you an extra three or four inches of space up against the frame. You also need to make sure that you put a deflector on that so that stuff coming off of the tires is not beating the hell out of the oil filters. You get a dent in those and you can easily get a pressure leak.
Can I add possible tack on each side bit by bit until solid. but yes adding too much to one side will cause distortion in the metal. AND clean the area before tacking, losts of contamination in the weld.
And you expect a thin weld not to fracture with constant heat and vibration, surely it would be better to get a new bracket from the manufacturer or get one made from a single piece of metal !!
I would of made a plate to be welded across the joint and then all the bolts could go through the reinforced plate
I was going to suggest the very same thing I would say great minds think a like 😂
The truck owner needs to fab up a rock shield for those filters.
I’ve have suffered damage by some of the crazy junk falling off vehicles and slung by tires.
List: mud flap bracket, rocks, 2x4s, garbage can, extension ladder, baby high chair, tree limb, toolbox, thermal coffee cup, tires, drive shaft, pipe, mufflers all sizes of nuts, bolts brackets, plus a whole zoo of dead animals.
I simply love these sounds you put when you show up the brake cleaner 😂 It's hilarious 😂
Stolen from sma
I would have just added a spacer block..and also made a deflector plate for the front
I agree, but then I have a machine shop in my garage for my metal working hobby.
I think it must be a Florida thing I live in the north where we have snow so the deflector would be a must here.
@@geostro440 I see so many of you guys in the States with cracked windscreens, I'm just thinking if a stone flacks up off that front wheel it's enough to ruin you day if that filter gets punctured..easy to make
@@johncooper4637 hi mate..he has a vice he's 3/4 of the way there
Exactly, a spacer block, quick and easy. If you have to weld it, at least bevel the edges, and run the welder down in line with the gap, not at right angle.
Ray …..
I think the inside of the frame mount is better as it will not allow stones to be kicked up from the wheel to hit the filters. Also, Aeroquip makes a adapter for your vice for putting those hoses together. They also make hose separators instead of using zip ties….. 🇺🇸👊🏼👊🏼✌🏼
I agree with the other comments, i dont like those filters hanging that low and exposed. Just taking unnecessary chances that are easily avoided with a better installation.
I gotta agree. It should b protected after all its a work truck!
A tall speed bump. I would mount it so the bottom of the frame would take the hit not the filters.
@@ironhead3903 Diesel trucks are high stock and my fuel filters have been mounted that way with the same rubber line for 19 years and still fine
Inside frame was protected from tires kicking up crap, now not as much. I don't exactly have a warm and fuzzy about that either.
bit surprised the bracket wasn't designed to mount the filters higher up, they look vulnerable to damage from road debris to me. Cheers
Pretty sure the Kit was designed for Under Hood installation really .
Mount it on the dashboard😂
yeah i wouldnt be mounting such a critical component in that location
My immediate thought too! The filters look like they are reaching down begging to be sliced open by a piece of road debris.
the bracket is just a basic generic mount, vulnerability is the realization and responsibility that lays with the guy who is mounting it. Placement is the key to proper access and protection from being struck, it's probably the first thing that should've come to mind.
I could be wrong... I would have used four coupling nuts as spacers between the frame and the filter bracket.
What sense does it make to have the engine oil filters hang down below the frame rails where they can be hit by practically everything? 😮
My Air Dog fuel filters hang that low and have been for 18 years, never hit one yet, these are not rock crawlers as we have no rocks in Florida, they are work trucks so won't be dragging the frame
I would think a short vocational class on welding would be a great asset to your repairs.
Welding only one side of the bracket leaves it for failure.
Saying you are not a welder as an excuse to globe metal on a repair seems more like a DYI than a professional shop.
That bracket developing a crack and falling off will have catastrophic results.
I sisnstalled the AMSOIL Dual Filter setup on my 1999 International 7.3 4700 . Excellent product and relatively easy to install. Of course I used the AMSOIL oil for the engine. Also did the transmission oil change to AMSOIL, laying on my back on gravel.
There has got to be a better protected place somewhere on that truck.
Extra fittings, rubber lines. Good quality oem filter, recommended oil and intervals, I'd leave it stock.
@@edjacobs8876 agree! Toyota used rubber lines for the oil cooler years back when they introduced the 2GR 3.5 and the degraded and ended up destroying many of what were otherwise rock solid engines. Oil and rubber are always a bad combo.
Grinder and paint makes you the welder you ain't!
WIth the amount of rust on everything, cold galvanizing compound would work better than paint. I use Rustoleum in the 20oz spray can. That would require prep like making sure the grease and oil are cleaned off first so the compound adheres correctly and we know Ray ain't into all of that extra stuff. Hurry, hurry, hurry.
We call that a side stream filtration system in the commercial HVAC world. Just filtering a small portion at a time, it will eventually clean the system slowly without having to filter it all in one shot.
I welded, it helded. I have learned that especially with flux core welding you need to clean off the weld and slag every time you stop, even in between tacks.
Ray, you should used a u-channel spacer from the frame to the bracket. No welding needed
Nice to see some steel fabrication for a change. Remember, measure twice before cutting! In this case, few measurements were used.
I would have put some Poly-loom on the outside of those hoses before the zip-ties. I also would have sprayed the fittings with some sort of heavy duty metal protector like the one Amsoil makes to keep them from rusting as bad as the previous ones. Making future service easier. Plus the left over piece of that bracket on the other side of the filter mount had 2 holes. You could install a nice shield in front of the filters that wraps around the bottom to protect from road debris hitting the filters at some point, but still make it easily removeable for the yearly change. Just an "extra" thought, if it were my truck. I also would have done a "Clear Flood Mode" to prime the oil system instead of doing that sort of "dry start"
Agree the position of those filters look a bit exposed.
Ray will dry start an engine in a minute!😂
He loves that sound of parts wearing.
@@Theywereright24-7 lol ray does a lot of things that makes me cringe. I keep watching his videos but I’d never take my truck there that’s for sure 😂
The placement of that bypass filter kit (as in poking below the chassis rail) gives me anxiety issues. I'd be watching the oil pressure gauge like a hawk everytime I went off road.
(Edit) I'd wanna roll the bracket 180 degrees to get the whole assembly mounted higher up
I think I would have done the same
Could have mounted the assembly higher. Could drag the ground being near the middle of the truck. This would make me not want to take it off road. But going over a curb could do it also. 😕May be a location under the hood would work better if there was some extra space. I put an external oil filter on a 73 T bird and mounted it under the hood. But the T bird was a big car with lots of room.
@@GaryH-pw9cm My brother sat under the hood of my father's 78 1/2 Chevy and did a tune-up in the rain without getting wet. Not an option on anything these days.
Don’t think this kit was designed with any “off road” in mind or they’ve got it written up in warranty/legal paper work that if you run this system and a leak develops from road debris and you seize the engine they can’t be held responsible. So why develop and include a $20 steel shield for the filters when a $0.05 piece of paper protects the company just as well
@@GaryH-pw9cm
Barely enough room to just put your hand on the fuel filter under the hood of this truck.
10:24 “Everything is a Hammer “ 😂 Loving it
Do what you want, Ray; if the customer is satisfied and your happy with it, who cares? Me. I care. So here are few of things to consider for next time. 1. You dumped a lot of heat into that system especially welding on top of the aluminum, 2. there was a simpler method of adding a 1/4" or 3/8" plate spacer instead of chopping and welding, 3. anything galvanized or plated needs to be thoroughly cleaned before welding, those fumes are literally poisonous.
Zink Flu. Cadmium is cumulative in your body and your body never filters it out.
I've heard it makes mustard gas.
@@00recon
Not quite, I’m thinking mustard gas is more a chlorine gas, burning galvanized coatings is supposed to make cyanide from what I’ve heard. I don’t know what the zinc coating on those brackets turns into when you burn it up.
Put in front of radiator. Most vehicles, including my truck has plenty of room in front and makes it very easy to change the filters from underneath. I know, some vehicles have air shrouds underneath but they are easy to remove.
@@fishin11
Not enough room in these trucks for that, the filter head is way too big to fit in that limited space, plus you’re blocking air flow from the transmission, air conditioner, intercooler, and radiator if you mount something like that in the grille.
I am impressed with how clean and well maintained that truck is. Kudos to the owner.
Well being an Engineer by education.... we like toilet paper filters!!! I live near Stockton Ca. , where the designer and manufacturer of the Frantz Bypass Oil Filter system is located. It uses a roll of toilet paper as the filter element. There were many plumbing options. I always used their sandwich plate adapter. So you used the standard full flow oil filter..while it bypassing a portion of the oil to the toilet paper element.. The toilet paper element was changed every 1500 mile with a top of of a quart of oil. Full-flow filter was change every 6000mile. turbo and twin-turbo engines. No problems or sludge.. squeakie clean oil!!!!!
Brake clean theme. You get a like.
Filtering out the soot is a great idea. That still won't filter out the other combustion by-products.
Years ago I learned when making those kinds of lines firstly to lube the line prior to threading the insert and then visually inspecting the inside of the line to ensure the fitting did not catch an edge and peel away the inside of the line. Do enough and it will happen.
The original amsoil oil bypass system used to get leaks where the filters mounted to the base plate.They solved that with a newer redesign.
The Amsoil is a great system, I've had one on my 96 F350 with the 7.3 PSD since 2002.
Wow wife unit looks like a totally different woman without her glasses on
Thought I recognized the voice, but when Ray panned up to her, I didn't recognize her initially once I saw her. Then when she turned away, her hair was pulled back into a ponytail.
@@johnhpalmer6098either way top quality wife unit, Ray did the normal top notch choice 😎😎😎
Ray always nice to paint it black just like the frame (nice to mention us pipefitters Have a good day Ray
Commendable on your solution my thought is spacers where bracket mounts to frame and just weld gussets for support
I'd forgotten about these. I sold one of the first of these in the UK in the eighties when I was one of their first distributors in the country. Nice to see the improved design too.
I would split a radiator hose and wrap and strap it around the hoses over the frame to keep it from chafing
Just use a spacer on the fram rail. Because you can't Weld Ray, but aluminum has a much lower melting point than steel!
I would have liked to see you wrap the hoses with protective wrapping of some kind. 😊
I agree, turn the bracket over and I make spacers from pipe nipples and longer mounting bolts.
Since you lost quite a bit from the second, sacrificial bracket, why not just cut off the short bent part and use the longer portion to extend the horizontal part of a normal bracket. You can then weld a much larger portion of each piece to the other and not have to deal with the downward bend making to hard to reach the nuts. Oh well, hindsight is 20/20! Especially when watching others! 🤣
I'm not sure how common speed bumps are in the US but over here those filters are hanging low enough to last about 1 speed bump if you drive a little too fast.
But we got nasty speed bumps over here in the Netherlands.
Ray, i think you benefit tremendously from getting a tank of argon and some solid wire for your welder. Flux core is a lot harder process than MIG. Especially when you're trying to get your broken bolts out of engine blocks. I would bet you could weld a broken bolt once and be able to get it out instead of multiple tries to get the nut to stick t ok the broken bolt I've seen in other videos. ( the subaru engine is what I'm remembering)
Agree, gasless welding has it's place, but is very messy and difficult to master, should only be used as a last resort.
Love your videos, but could not watch this one. Oil filters that close to ground, to me, is insane.
You can mount those filters horizontally. I had this system on my Ram 2500 5.9L Cummins for many years(from 2005 or so to 2023). Removed it last year. Decided I didn't need it for the miles I put on the truck. They recommend filters be changed every 12 months anyway. Good idea if you drive 100k miles per year.IMPO. Not sure about the Duramax but I had mine mounted on the frame rail below the passenger seat area and it vibrated into the cab with a constant humming noise. Moved it from there to a plate mounted on the engine above the exhaust manifold. Worked there for most of its life until I removed it. It's a nice system and very well built. I have it here in a bucket and a set of filters if someone is interested in it.
@@madman432000
While you may not have had any problems with mounting it like that, Amsoil specifically says NOT to in their instructions.
It doesn’t have to hang vertical, but they say not to do horizontal. I think a 45 degree angle is perfectly fine and if I remember right, they give a max degree angle for mounting.
@@ralfie8801 Ok, they may have changed the instructions since mine was installed, i know a 90° installation was fine at that time. Regardless Amsoil does not offer the dual remote kit for the Cummins anymore. I'm place of that they say just the single bypass standalone option with the full flow filter in the factory position. I know why too.
@@madman432000
That’s what I bought for my son’s Cummins several years ago. His has a ranch hand front bumper on it and he mounted the filter between the bumper and the right front fender liner.
I’m pretty sure they don’t offer the dual kit anymore because they caused oil pressure problems just like the one for the Duramax does. I’m thinking they could overcome that problem by using 5/8” lines instead of the 1/2” ones they give you.
@@ralfie8801 correct, oil pressure was the issue. Start engine when cold and pressure would come up then drop to zero. If you waited 10-15 seconds pressure would return. First couple times it happened with me i shut it o off right away. Restart and oil pressure was fine. A previously things with even the stock filters, I've removed them and only 3/4 full, like some oil was pulled back into the block. I suspect it was an air bubble going through the system. When i mounted the system on the engine block above the factory filter location i didn't have that issue anymore.
A good idea to relocate those filters outside the chassis rail, BUT no protection from stones being thrown up by the front tyre. I saw too many filters punctured by flying stones on tractors, but at least they sprayed oil over the cabin glass so you stopped as soon as it happened.
Ordinarily when Ray is dealing with hand sweat, I giggle and think glad I don’t live down in Lantana anymore. Then I’m reminded on days like this, in Chicago. 98 degrees 70%+ humidity. 😂
Why must it be so low under the chassis? I guess it''s OK if you have nice smooth roads but any unexpected debris or need to detour over the kerb is probably going to get it.
If he had flipped that bracket over he would have raise the filters a coup inches
@@onewayt They look bloody vulnerable to me. There is enough real estate on one of hose trucks to put the filters tucked away somewhere.
If you would put a small bevel before you welded that joint the weld would be stronger and prettier. LOL
Yep, 2 seconds with an angle grinder would have made a big difference. But it's obvious he's no fabricator. Great mechanic though.
There will be no quick answers for Lauren, just sales pitch answers for us viewers. Very clever, Ha You rock Ray!!
It needs a water softner too...i hope your bid is good and your awarded the contract😳🤩
Rivnuts are a good option rather than putting a bolt right through the frame.
Good instructional vid, as usual Ray, thanks...I'm gonn'a get one of those
fer my F-250 6.7L Ford Diesel...Low mileage, 32,000 so this will be of optimal value coupled with the Amsoil Diesel 15W-40
Ray, I expected more of you! That's how I would have done it!
Turn that bracket upside down to lift the filters 3 inches higher so they are not as exposed under that chassis. Leave a gap for welding the bracket (1 to 2 mm) or grind the side to an angle so the weld connects better and put something between the assembly and the bracket that doesn't conduct heat while welding.
Mr Ray, when you have two pieces of mild steel butted together, please weld a ‘V’ between them with a small edge (landing) on the bottom. Then weld and you’ll get good penetration. You can also use a back plate, but that’s serious overkill.
I was sitting in the waiting room at the dealership while my vehicle was getting an oil change.
A lady was sitting across from me when the service manager approached her and asked her did she had any oil change receipts.
She said no that her vehicle just indicated that it needed an oil change.
The service manager said your vehicle is not equipped with an oil change indicator so how did you determine it needed an oil change.
She said the red light flickered at a stop light and didn't go off until she got up to around 20 miles an hour.
Apparently, she hadn't had her oil changed in 45,000 miles!
Never understood why people ignore the simplest maintenance item.
The Just Brought In channel has a lot of cars like this... the results are often horrific as are many other deferred maintenance clips, especially when people refuse repairs.
I read some comments, on filter damage...surround filters or cover face of filters with a deflector plate (1/8") (also I personally love this addition, only would have used Teflon tape...BUT DIS AINT MY JOB & HOWEVER....YOU DID IT RIGHT RAY!!!)
@@bigsparky8888
You don’t use Teflon tape on those fittings, they’re not pipe threads. Each one of those fittings he screwed into the filter head and the engine adapter are a specific type of hydraulic fitting and have o rings on them for sealing. The hoses have tapered flat sealing surfaces that seal against the fittings for a perfect seal.
O GOOD MY JOB IS SAFE BRAKE CLEAN USED HOORAY THANKS RAY SPRAY RAY SPRAY
WOW. When you combine Professor Balthazar and some MacGyver, lol you get Ray the Magician!!! So fun to watch and nice to see a Pro in action. :D
Great idea, BUT on my ranch that mounting location would not last one day, especially the first location.
Why not spacers between Frame and bracket
That would not have made for a entertaining video.
I agree with using a spacer block and also turn the bracket over to raise the filters another inch and a half or two inches!
@@aaronlezliboo!obg 4!8?2.8
It would have added too much weight. 😅
Film everything brother i for one love all vids you post!
I’m commenting before watching the video, I’m thinking you should flip the bracket upside down to get the filter housing tucked higher up under the truck for better ground clearance on the filters themselves.
Bevel the edges of your bracket then fill it with your weld for a lot stronger joint.
Can add some of that hydraulic hose plastic spiral protector sleeve over those hoses for a little more insurance against abrasions.
4:00 yea making your oil filtration system the lowest point on the vehicle sounds like a REALLLY good idea... should NOT be below the frame, hopefully continuing to watch you think about that too.
Run for the hills!!! Ray is not on the "no plan plan"!!!
Why not just put a spacer in between the vertical piece of the stock bracket and the frame rail and use longer bolts to hold the bracket to the frame rail?
Nice job Ray, As Usual....
You asked for thoughts, my thoughts are 1, terrible placement of filters, open now to damage from road debris and going off road, best place is in the engine bay if possible. 2, by the look of the oil this xtra filter isn't working that great anyway. Changing just the filter every 5000 k's helps prolong an oil change, but not by much.
Good morning Ray
My remote filters are mounted on the rear panel of truck cab between cab and bed. Easy to get to/well protected from damage and gives me three more quarts of oil capacity.
Thanks again Ray
Reading comments on the filters hanging low... I thought they were about the same height as the old ones, only they're on the outside of the frame. Possibly subject to more road hazards/debris. Maybe a guard/deflector added to negate that could be in order. I've not experienced these remote filters so I don't know. Will defer to Ray on that, he's the one who installed and is more familiar.
Thanks for the Lauren/WifeUnit cameo too. She's looking lovely as ever. 😊
You should put 4 bolts in the frame & 4 bolts in the filter manifold, trucks tend to have a little rougher ride and could crack the bracket and could cause a catastrophic failure.
You need one of those spray paint can trigger gizmos for the brake clean cans. Easier on the fingers.
"It's going in now. Oh yeah!" 😂😂😂 Sorry, I couldn't help it.
giggity
Nice bracket making looked good
Plenty of good ideas below on the bracket build and positioning. But would it hurt to put a bit of flat black on the bracket and fittings? Just a quick hit? I know it won't make it perform any better, but it might look better longer with a value-added squirt of flat black for some added protection of the bare metals. As an added bonus, you get another spray product that you could throw when the cans go empty😄.
The filter canisters cannot stick down from the frame unprotected as they will be torn away by any and all obstacle the car encounters off-road. You could flip the bracket upside-down. It would be more difficult to tighten the screws (frame first then top), but the filter assembly would be higher and safe.
The camera view shows enough room to have a dance party. The truth is it's tight in there.
Ray thank you for the sound effects on the brake cleaner, today I'm a little bit low and needed a little laugh 😂
When you tighten the last fitting where oil filter use to go,, The other one used as a holder just backed off the jam Nut
Seen plenty of these mounted in the same location where I live in Northern Wisconsin
TRUMP is ending all taxes on social security, got my vote!
Retard spotted, this is a car video,
That is the hardest jam sandwich I personally seen in a long time!
Great video Ray!!!!
Awesome video! Thanks Mr. Ray....
I see another video on this in on our future.....😂
I've always changed my oil every 3k miles. Been doing that to my cars for 54 years.
As For all that filtering the old oil still looks jet black, thought the least it would be is dark brown.
Good ol' Ray. He orders brake cleaner spray by the pallet!
Flip the bracket over then bolt to the bracket. That will raise the filters above the danger zone.
Nice Ray let's see the old filters?????
I've changed many hydraulic lines on agricultural equipment and they were never as easy to get to as this. I usually had to remove two or more lines to get to the line I wanted. And they were always messy.
Best chassis paint i've found is Rustoleum Rust Reformer. It's a nice Satin Black 'n looks like factory chassis paint but 1000% more durable....Ask me, I've used this spray paint on my everyday vehicle here in Michigan 'fer years now.....STOPS RUST Even on the chassis. Try it, you'll like it
Have a local metal CNC shop cut a dozen of those, put them in a brake for the 90° and you're done with 11 for the future.
I'll stick to my 4000 mile intervals. Would rather be safe than sorry!
I routinely go 10,000 miles on my '04 Duramax and it now has 527,000 miles on it. I also use Shell Rotella T5 15W40 oil.
@williamjones4483 I don't own a diesel, but regardless, it's cheaper to buy oil than a new engine.
@@bearing_aficionado Two different engines
@herbbates4713 thanks, I am aware of that.
Do an oil analysis you're wasting time and money
Place it under the hood! That's wher I put mine. Worked well for many years!
@@mr.lynnrosaasen8218
No room for that on any Duramax pickup, the filter head is too big even before you put the filters on.
I was a welder for 5 years. I approve of your weld.
Some paint would help keep the bracket from rusting.
@GaryH-pw9cm yep. But still he gave some heat to the tacks so they are strong.
@GaryH-pw9cm some people barely tack and they are like a bandaid.
Great video Ray! There's a lot of sense in the comments though. The fillers should be protected.