Good to see what's in the starter clutch, nothing to be afraid of. I need to have a look at mine as it is noisy but still spins the motor over. Thanks for the vid.
After many attempts of changing springs and rollers with no result I made 3 oversized rollers by 0,3 mm each and from then on no problem. The rollers were from a machine shop because they have to be hardened. I realized that there was wear where the rollers nest.
To support this channel go to Amazon through the links below and make any purchase: Flywheel Rotor Magneto Puller Tool 16mmx1.5 Rh Male Honda amzn.to/3hlEKCg This one fits a lot of older Hondas and other bikes also
Get a set pullers for a couple bucks more. 10 Pcs Rotor Flywheel Driver Puller amzn.to/36ZlEhG Honda Genuine HONDABOND 4 amzn.to/39XGtMs
So although both are normal thread, and you turn the bolt counter-clockwise to remove, to to use the puller I turned it to the right with my impact driver, and just like in the video the stator popped off after couple of tries. Had to go to a machine shop to get one of the 3 Philips head screws out, it was in so tight. Now that I am reassembling with new roller & spring kit from Common-Motor and a NOS knock pin from Ebay how much torque to to use on the 14mm bolt that holds the rotor on? I don't want it to come loose but I don't want to over tighten it. Am guessing about 25 ft lbs?
It's a 8mm thread and the spec is 23.5 ft-lbs +- 1.5 ft-lbs so good guess. Make sure you center punch the 3 Philips head screws on the edge so they don't come loose. That's why they where so hard to get out. The torque spec for those are 96 in-lbs.
Damn I put new rollers and springs and knock pin in and it will only turn the engine over once (you can hear a bump bump one for each cylinder) and then it loses grip and spins like before. The big sprocket had a smooth surface where the rollers roll and only a tiny bit of play in its bushing on the crank shaft. What is my problem?
The big sprocket might have a flat spot on it . Also it will help it you polish the where the rollers roll. 240 emery paper should give you the right surface finish.
You can try eBay, or just google it. You can find the rollers and springs, but if the housing or the sprocket is shot then you'll have to find a good used one.
The oil flow to the top end of all DOHC 450s takes a minimum of 1 to 2 full minutes to get to all cam lobes and followers. Revving it up like that stone cold will lead to excess follower wear when the leftover film of oil gets burned through in seconds and the cam lobes run dry over the followers.
Did you clean the starter clutch assembly thoroughly? Did you then apply "silicone" grease to the rollers and surfaces? If you didn't you are not following the workshop manual. The starter clutch will last longer, will only operate at its best and be quieter in action if you follow the engineers advice......... they did know what they were talking about.
@@Amotorcyclenut Hi again, and apologies if I've offended. I was just trying to keep it short. To the best of my knowledge the starter clutch does not run in an oil bath. When we put the bike on the centre stand and take off the large side cover to get to this area, as we know, very little oil comes out. The stator and this clutch are well above the oil level when the engine is not running and when running the oil level drops even more. Also, the centrifugal force keeps any oil mist out of the starter clutch rollers. All I can say is that I rebuilt my starter clutch, including a factory in spec/as new clutch drum and it worked quite well, but was still a bit noisy and didn't grab occasionally. After finely actually reading the factory work shop manual, I pulled it down and did what the factory said. I cleaned it, Silicone greased it and it has been much quieter and has always hooked up instantly...... I don't know what else I can say except that it does operate better......
I'm sorry but I had to leave when the noise started at 1:20. I was able to continue watching after the noise abated. This has been quite a recurring problem with Hondas. Thread locker would have solved most of these problems.
Thanks, but 2 Qs: When you remove the nut from the alternator rotor (you call it flywheel) is it R or L hand thread? When you next use the puller tool, is it R or L hand thread?
It is right hand thread. Puller tool is also right hand thread. Look in video description if you want to order a tool. Here is a link also Flywheel Rotor Magneto Puller Tool 16mmx1.5 Rh Male Honda amzn.to/3hlEKCg
Good to see what's in the starter clutch, nothing to be afraid of. I need to have a look at mine as it is noisy but still spins the motor over. Thanks for the vid.
Good luck!
when the starter clutch chain has that much wear in it,always replace it. Very informative.
After many attempts of changing springs and rollers with no result I made 3 oversized rollers by 0,3 mm each and from then on no problem. The rollers were from a machine shop because they have to be hardened. I realized that there was wear where the rollers nest.
To support this channel go to Amazon through the links below and make any purchase:
Flywheel Rotor Magneto Puller Tool 16mmx1.5 Rh Male Honda amzn.to/3hlEKCg
This one fits a lot of older Hondas and other bikes also
Get a set pullers for a couple bucks more.
10 Pcs Rotor Flywheel Driver Puller amzn.to/36ZlEhG
Honda Genuine HONDABOND 4 amzn.to/39XGtMs
Are you sure the puller is M18? Thought it should be M16.
you are right I'll fix that. Thanks
Welcome back fella. Another easy to follow/watch video. 👍👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Thanks 👍
thanks for helping me unclog my sink
Happy to help
@@Amotorcyclenut :)
So although both are normal thread, and you turn the bolt counter-clockwise to remove, to to use the puller I turned it to the right with my impact driver, and just like in the video the stator popped off after couple of tries. Had to go to a machine shop to get one of the 3 Philips head screws out, it was in so tight. Now that I am reassembling with new roller & spring kit from Common-Motor and a NOS knock pin from Ebay how much torque to to use on the 14mm bolt that holds the rotor on? I don't want it to come loose but I don't want to over tighten it. Am guessing about 25 ft lbs?
It's a 8mm thread and the spec is 23.5 ft-lbs +- 1.5 ft-lbs so good guess. Make sure you center punch the 3 Philips head screws on the edge so they don't come loose. That's why they where so hard to get out. The torque spec for those are 96 in-lbs.
Damn I put new rollers and springs and knock pin in and it will only turn the engine over once (you can hear a bump bump one for each cylinder) and then it loses grip and spins like before. The big sprocket had a smooth surface where the rollers roll and only a tiny bit of play in its bushing on the crank shaft. What is my problem?
The big sprocket might have a flat spot on it . Also it will help it you polish the where the rollers roll. 240 emery paper should give you the right surface finish.
Where do I find that part? I searched for it on amazon and I can't find it, help, I have a Honda CB450
You can try eBay, or just google it. You can find the rollers and springs, but if the housing or the sprocket is shot then you'll have to find a good used one.
The oil flow to the top end of all DOHC 450s takes a minimum of 1 to 2 full minutes to get to all cam lobes and followers. Revving it up like that stone cold will lead to excess follower wear when the leftover film of oil gets burned through in seconds and the cam lobes run dry over the followers.
Yep even with an upgraded pump, it accually tells you in the owners manual not to rev it for a few minutes.
Justice still have the cb450?
Yes he does
@@Amotorcyclenut he needs a gopro and to start doing vlogs 🤙🏻
Did you clean the starter clutch assembly thoroughly? Did you then apply "silicone" grease to the rollers and surfaces? If you didn't you are not following the workshop manual. The starter clutch will last longer, will only operate at its best and be quieter in action if you follow the engineers advice......... they did know what they were talking about.
Do you realize that the starter clutch runs in an oil bath on that engine?
@@Amotorcyclenut Hi again, and apologies if I've offended. I was just trying to keep it short. To the best of my knowledge the starter clutch does not run in an oil bath. When we put the bike on the centre stand and take off the large side cover to get to this area, as we know, very little oil comes out. The stator and this clutch are well above the oil level when the engine is not running and when running the oil level drops even more. Also, the centrifugal force keeps any oil mist out of the starter clutch rollers. All I can say is that I rebuilt my starter clutch, including a factory in spec/as new clutch drum and it worked quite well, but was still a bit noisy and didn't grab occasionally. After finely actually reading the factory work shop manual, I pulled it down and did what the factory said. I cleaned it, Silicone greased it and it has been much quieter and has always hooked up instantly...... I don't know what else I can say except that it does operate better......
I'm sorry but I had to leave when the noise started at 1:20. I was able to continue watching after the noise abated. This has been quite a recurring problem with Hondas. Thread locker would have solved most of these problems.
Thanks, but 2 Qs: When you remove the nut from the alternator rotor (you call it flywheel) is it R or L hand thread? When you next use the puller tool, is it R or L hand thread?
It is right hand thread. Puller tool is also right hand thread. Look in video description if you want to order a tool. Here is a link also Flywheel Rotor Magneto Puller Tool 16mmx1.5 Rh Male Honda amzn.to/3hlEKCg
@@Amotorcyclenut Thanks. Got a puller from www.Common-Motor.com (they specialize in parts for CB350 and CB450).
9 out of 10 times when I've done this, the roller holder will be cracked.