For anyone wondering, I recieved my meter yesterday and the leads are definatly silicone. I burn-tested them with an open flame and the outside just got dirty and didn't soften or melt at all! Quite a nice touch from this company!
Excellent video. Kaiweets are really making top shelf meters these days. I do a lot of work on pumps and motors and I would certainly use a Kaiweets meter.
Thank you! These are more middle of the road priced, not as high as some, but not the lowest price either. Great value for the money and very solid meters I think. Nice silicone leads thrown in to boot;)
Thank you! These are more middle of the road priced, not as high as some, but not the lowest price either. Great value for the money and very solid meters I think. Nice silicone leads thrown in to boot;)
I had to make an effort to let you know that you did an outstanding job in this video I really enjoyed it. I may even play it on TV this Christmas Eve when the family is around. :)
I am doing a review on one of these meters and I like to have look around to get the opinion from other people. Have to say I’m really impressed about the quality of your review and depth of knowledge. Did you notice the minimum current was a bit disappointing it has a 10mA resolution but doesn’t measure until about 120 ma. I certainly learned something watching your video nicely done sir. I’m a new subscriber to your channel. Thanks best regards Chris
Theoretically, you just need to loop the wire through the clamp multiple times to get better resolution at the low end. Do 10 loops and it'll read 120mA with 12mA current.
Great idea! I actually almost did, because I was so surprised that they would provide silicone with a meter at this price, but they sure did. Great value I think!
The hand feel of the test leads seem to give up nothing up the Fluke leads. The nice thing about quality leads is that they don't take a set and allow you to coil and uncoil them from storage in the case.
Eddie, you refer to the cables as Cat IV at around 8:00 minutes. Is there anything about these meters that is genuinely Cat IV? Almost immediately you discover that the probe tip covers won't stay on. At this point, I think you should be asking yourself, is it wise to continue with these products that can be used to probe live voltages? Later on, you have probes connected and a cable through the clamp at the same time? Towards the end, you refer to the flexibility of the cables e.g. "might be" silicone. Since the cables are not used to measure current, they could simply be made with very thin wire and be flexible, so a cable "teardown" might reveal everything? My Kaiweets AC/DC clamping meter will "sometimes" measure 10A (high) AC but won't ever measure 0.5A (low) AC current when clamping the L wire. It's not completely broken because it always measures DC current 10A (high) or 0.5A (low). AC/DC clamp meters are more expensive than AC clamp ones and should be as good for AC and paying more to get less is a disappointment. Any "mains/live" meter that "sometimes" works might prove to be a costly mistake too. Conventional Kaiweets (uA ranging) multimeters are however pretty good. Simon
Thanks Simon for the feedback and great points that you bring up;) Yes, although there are many meters rated for CAT IV and have these tip covers for this rating - I would not use them for CAT IV. First, not many work in CAT IV areas, but the ones that do use higher end multimeters with 3rd party certifications. The new Fluke tips that come with most of their meters (T72 leads) are very flimsy and just pop off - or IMHO;) The great thing about the clamp on meters is they are inherently safe, you can forget where you have your leads when measuring current, and leave the wire running through the jaws, then take a voltage measurement. The wire running through the jaws is insulated and the jaws are insulated, and other than possibly inducing a little noise in the meter, it is not going to be shorted when measuring voltage as it would be with a conventional meter. I will do another Kaiweets review where we compare their current clamps (I think I have 5 of them), and I'll show where even a lower cost model might be the more preferred model for a particular use, or user;) Also, be aware to judge if a wire is live by measuring current. A wire can be live but no load on it, so measuring current will not be the method to judge if it is live. You bring up some excellent points - so thank you and I'll keep them in mind in the next review. Thanks again!
@KissAnalog I have the HT208D and do not get any inrush reading when my AC compressor starts up. The normal current draw on my AC compressor is 6.6A. Kaiweets tells me that if the inrush current is not above 10A, there will not be any reading on the meter. Do you know if this is true and have you tested inrush on anything less than 10A?
The clamp only measures current. Some only AC, others AC and DC. The point is not needing to break a circuit to measure current like normal. For voltage, you still need to plug in some leads.
#John Bailey is right, but they do have the NCV (non-contact-voltage) sense to light up and buz if voltage is detected. And the ‘Live’ setting that you can use one lead as I showed to measure if voltage is present.
@@KissAnalog The NCV feature isn't nearly as useful as the dedicated NCV testers, because it is just too sensitive and can't pick out individual wires as being live or not.
Thank you! Yes, most inrush is specified to be settled at 100ms. Even for motors, it gives 5 cycle at 50 Hz and more for 60 Hz, so the inrush should have reached max by 100 ms.
This video got me thinking differently about the next multimeter to purchase. I was thinking a typical 2k-4k counts such as the HT113B but having a clamp type would be very useful and soooo much easier to check current on small solar panels and controllers. They cost more but hey, its only money. That 208D you reviewed is now ~$100. Will need to look for an older model...
Thanks for the great feedback. The price goes up and down depending on stock - I think. Here is a link for the one with the different display and many of the same specs for under $70: amzn.to/3tThhgo
@@KissAnalog Great minds... I bought a HT206D earlier today. The one you posted is a good price given the extras it comes with. I ordered the meter alone but for less then half the cost of the one posted. However, it will take 4 weeks to arrive. Thank you!
@@ridemfast7625 I have both the 206D and 208D, and the differences of the 208D are really worth the increment in price. The 206D inexplicably lacks the range hold option, which makes min max readings less useful, and the 208D test leads are much nicer quality. 206D advantages are the smaller size and price. Also visibility in bright sunlight is actually better.
Do you think that the ac/dc version is suitable to work with solar panel installation, even to work on the outside without the Cat IV on the leads? By the way nice review!
Thanks - that's a great question! When current is read thru a non-contact type method such as a clamp meter - I feel much safer! Also, there is no chance in connecting to a voltage with the probes in the current inputs, so no short with high voltage. So, the transient voltage or high voltage that can cause arcs when disconnecting leads is very much reduced too. So, I think this meter is safer for those reasons. What type of voltages and currents are you working with? What's the upstream breaker panel like?
@@KissAnalog umm, I am not sure why it wouldn't read Hz in the mode with CT. I bought one and mine doesn't even show inrush. Should've just gotten a Fluke to begin with :/
My D version is unable to lock on any values and changes permanently by 15-20% no matter how constant is the measured parameter. The NCV is ridiculous and beeps all over the place like crazy. Temp is off by 4 °C, at least that's one consistent error 😄. Built quality is the nicest feature, comparable or better than UNI-T but most internal components are low spec low quality and factory calibration is sloppy as expected at that kind of price.
@@KissAnalog I don't know how accurate or robust they are but Ive used mine a few times and it hasn't broke yet. I can't afford a Sanwa or Simpson but I wanted one just to have around. I like using the analog for resistance measurements.
05:50 it's written in red, like we see - but if we do NOT see, we have NO use for a meter anyway. And if you found out once, you should remember, should'n' t we?
@@KissAnalog Oh yess, you are sooo right! I didn't want to disaproove (is this an English word?) your statements. Maybe I was proud to have found a lttle hint on the tool to find out ;-). I liked all your information about the tool, as I was too lazy to read the instruction, so I could finish my washing of the dishes at the same time. Good chanel, THUMBS UP!
Thanks for your question, but I'm not sure what you are asking. The probes to do on the bottom for other measurements, but the current is read with the clamps. Regarding DC current, there are arrows on the jaws that show positive to negative current flow.
@@KissAnalog 208D has range hold and better test leads, and a nice clam shell type case instead of pouch case, which I find significant enough to be worth the difference in cost. When making a bunch of repeated measurements the range hold saves a lot of time and also allows minmax measurements that the auto range will mess up on.
HT208D 40 bucks US delivered BG EU store with incl. VAT. does not seem expensive as it is a quite feature packed 1000A AC & DC clamp meter... and just the casing alone would set me back 7 to 10 bucks. How fast DC current signals can it notice? (high ampere DC signals form fx spotwelder?)
Two questions. What is the clock symbol in the upper left of the display? I'm assuming it's the battery status that turns in a low battery symbol? Also, if there is no fuse why is there a fuse symbol in the book? I got one of these last week and am familiarizing myself with the features. Other than those two mysteries I posted I like it a lot! I made a line splitter out of a shortish flat extension cord.
Oscilloscopes are the best when you also have a nice current probe, but these clamp on meters that have inrush current can capture faster than 100ms typically and are great for a simple inrush measurement;)
In the first 1 ms is inrush from led drivers.When I was looking for clamp for this purpose I found only 3 which can do this.Two types are above $1000 from Hikoi and from HT Italia and 1/2 cheaper in range of clamps from AEMC CHAUVIN ARNOUX.Rest of the clamps are useful for motor inrush and in 100 ms have few captures.
On the bottom where the common/negative lead plugs in, maybe an idea would be marking it with a black ink like a permanent marker. Just my small contribution/suggestion if it's helpful to anyone.
@@KissAnalog I'd agree with this, it gives up very little to the Flukes, and has advantages over them. My only real gripe is the min max mode, which isn't able to show the ongoing readings when you use that function. I can forgive it because it just does everything else do well. I checked mine against a lab standard for DC voltage accuracy, and it was off by 0.006%. I measured by adjusting the calibrator until the display just rolled over to the test target, and recorded the actual voltage at that point, which is the only way to truly test it's accuracy. Otherwise it could be off by as much as 1 count. I was suitably impressed. Don't know if it's just a fluke 😉 that mine is that well calibrated though.. someone else will have to confirm if theirs performs similarly, if they have access to calibration equipment.
Thank you for the video. I'm from Russia. I was looking for a detailed review for a long time, no where was it. I found it with you. We call it Habotest ht208d. I bought it, after your review, I am very satisfied, all functions correspond, the accuracy class is high. Inrush only works over 10A, is it the same for you? Many thanks.
Thanks for the question! But to be sure, are you asking for inrush currents below 1 Amp, or meters that are good for inrush current and for low current measurements?
@@KissAnalog Yes I mean is this meter specifically (the HT208D) any good for measuring mA with the jaws, or is it only suitable for higher currents like >10A
@@JamesJames-um5xq it can readily measure currents below 1A, the 208D I got is surprisingly accurate and doesn't seem to be as prone to variation from the wire position within the jaws. Usually they want you to put the wire in the center of the opening, but mine doesn't seem that sensitive to position.
Great question Dave, they do have a millivolt range (600mV for the 6k count and 400mV for the 4k count), but the lowest amp scale is 4A on the HT206 series. If you use this link it supports the channel for no extra cost and you should get a discount. kaiweets.com?sca_ref=1269738.glN6S8aePH
@@daveyakutchik3493 if you really need to measure very small currents and only have this meter on hand, just get a low value resistor of known specification, and wire it in series with your circuit. Then make a measurement across the resistor with your meter in millivolt mode. A simple calculation will give you your current. You could measure down to microamps if you really needed to, with the right resistor selection to use as a current sense. If you want a clamp meter for currents in the microamp range, you're not likely to find one, though you can get current clamps with lower ranges that can be used along with a scope or DMM that will do that. Looping the current wire 20 times for 20x higher sensitivity can help to get better resolution also.
Thanks for the video and making me feel so dumb. I haven't used one before and I assumed clamp on meant to clamp the wire with the jaws which doesn't work. (: This fact should be in clamp on meters class 101.
I am glad someone doesn't find that brand of meter iffy and says for the price they are good meters and that the 208d reads inrush current. I have ideal, klein, Greenlee, extech, uei, and commercial electric (a home depot store brand) also a few radio shack and Sperry and last but not least a ryobi and craftsman meters. I am game to try this one for myself to see if true
i think kaiweets just rebrand white label goods, but after testing and making sure it's good stuff i guess. you'd have to, in order to survive. not a problem with me - there's a market for that too.
If using it in broad daylight, the 206D reflective type display is actually more readable. Need to shield the 208D with your hands to see it in those conditions.
With 340 million people in the US, one would think they would have made the temperature display read in ⁰F and not ⁰C. Leads without threaded tips for alligator clips are useless to me. Captured screw for the battery door would be a nice upgrade.
They do look the same, I don’t know who makes them, but they do seem to be getting their meters from the same manufacturing. Seems like good stuff - especially for the price.
For anyone wondering, I recieved my meter yesterday and the leads are definatly silicone. I burn-tested them with an open flame and the outside just got dirty and didn't soften or melt at all! Quite a nice touch from this company!
Thanks Tyler for this feedback! Awesome! Now that’s value;)
Excellent video. Kaiweets are really making top shelf meters these days. I do a lot of work on pumps and motors and I would certainly use a Kaiweets meter.
Thanks Tron! Just the kind of work these would be great for. Do you need DC readings too, or is AC enough?
@@KissAnalog Just AC is enough for what I need.
Yes! Another clamp review. Lots of details in these reviews.
Thank you
Thank you! These are more middle of the road priced, not as high as some, but not the lowest price either. Great value for the money and very solid meters I think. Nice silicone leads thrown in to boot;)
Thank you! These are more middle of the road priced, not as high as some, but not the lowest price either. Great value for the money and very solid meters I think. Nice silicone leads thrown in to boot;)
This channel Number one instrument review and learning channel on UA-cam 💞
Much appreciated! Thank you!
I had to make an effort to let you know that you did an outstanding job in this video I really enjoyed it. I may even play it on TV this Christmas Eve when the family is around. :)
LOL Thanks Rich! I appreciate you!
I am doing a review on one of these meters and I like to have look around to get the opinion from other people. Have to say I’m really impressed about the quality of your review and depth of knowledge. Did you notice the minimum current was a bit disappointing it has a 10mA resolution but doesn’t measure until about 120 ma. I certainly learned something watching your video nicely done sir. I’m a new subscriber to your channel. Thanks best regards Chris
Thanks for the great feedback! The low current readings area always the toughest to get. Here's a video I did for low current measurements.
Theoretically, you just need to loop the wire through the clamp multiple times to get better resolution at the low end. Do 10 loops and it'll read 120mA with 12mA current.
Hello !
i'm planing in buying an AC Clamp meter and this video helps a lot.
Thanks
Thanks for the feedback! I have another clamp meter review this weekend where I will show 5 different Kaiweets clamp meters;)
I'll wait to watch those reviews . Thanks
Great accuracy on both meters great job and excellent reviews on both meters
Thanks so much!
bought one because of your review... this is a very nice meter
Thanks for the great feedback! I do think it is a great option. Also, if it was stolen I wouldn’t be as hurt;)
Thanks, really good compact review with everything I wanted to know in it, ordered.
Great to hear! Thanks for your feedback!
Thanks Eddie,
Touch the leads with a soldering iron and you'll know right away if they're silicone.
Great idea! I actually almost did, because I was so surprised that they would provide silicone with a meter at this price, but they sure did. Great value I think!
The hand feel of the test leads seem to give up nothing up the Fluke leads. The nice thing about quality leads is that they don't take a set and allow you to coil and uncoil them from storage in the case.
First, and nice upgrades on this new version. I bought the last version.
Awesome!!!
Eddie, you refer to the cables as Cat IV at around 8:00 minutes. Is there anything about these meters that is genuinely Cat IV? Almost immediately you discover that the probe tip covers won't stay on. At this point, I think you should be asking yourself, is it wise to continue with these products that can be used to probe live voltages? Later on, you have probes connected and a cable through the clamp at the same time? Towards the end, you refer to the flexibility of the cables e.g. "might be" silicone. Since the cables are not used to measure current, they could simply be made with very thin wire and be flexible, so a cable "teardown" might reveal everything? My Kaiweets AC/DC clamping meter will "sometimes" measure 10A (high) AC but won't ever measure 0.5A (low) AC current when clamping the L wire. It's not completely broken because it always measures DC current 10A (high) or 0.5A (low). AC/DC clamp meters are more expensive than AC clamp ones and should be as good for AC and paying more to get less is a disappointment. Any "mains/live" meter that "sometimes" works might prove to be a costly mistake too. Conventional Kaiweets (uA ranging) multimeters are however pretty good. Simon
Thanks Simon for the feedback and great points that you bring up;) Yes, although there are many meters rated for CAT IV and have these tip covers for this rating - I would not use them for CAT IV. First, not many work in CAT IV areas, but the ones that do use higher end multimeters with 3rd party certifications. The new Fluke tips that come with most of their meters (T72 leads) are very flimsy and just pop off - or IMHO;) The great thing about the clamp on meters is they are inherently safe, you can forget where you have your leads when measuring current, and leave the wire running through the jaws, then take a voltage measurement. The wire running through the jaws is insulated and the jaws are insulated, and other than possibly inducing a little noise in the meter, it is not going to be shorted when measuring voltage as it would be with a conventional meter. I will do another Kaiweets review where we compare their current clamps (I think I have 5 of them), and I'll show where even a lower cost model might be the more preferred model for a particular use, or user;) Also, be aware to judge if a wire is live by measuring current. A wire can be live but no load on it, so measuring current will not be the method to judge if it is live. You bring up some excellent points - so thank you and I'll keep them in mind in the next review. Thanks again!
Beautiful multimeter review.. Lots of functions with awesome two color display ... Thank you 👌👍❤️
You bet! I do like these meters, and for the price they offer a nice bang for the buck;)
I agree....
HI Eddie, nice video and great detail information. Thank you 😊
Thank you!!
@KissAnalog I have the HT208D and do not get any inrush reading when my AC compressor starts up. The normal current draw on my AC compressor is 6.6A. Kaiweets tells me that if the inrush current is not above 10A, there will not be any reading on the meter. Do you know if this is true and have you tested inrush on anything less than 10A?
Thanks for the feedback! I will try this test. I think I have done something similar before and had good results - but I will try it again. Thank you!
OH i need 2 of these :) Can the clamp detect and monitor voltage with out using the leads eddie ?
The clamp only measures current. Some only AC, others AC and DC. The point is not needing to break a circuit to measure current like normal.
For voltage, you still need to plug in some leads.
@@JohnBailey39 Exactly what i thought, just didn't know if this was a new version that could measure voltage.. I think i'll pick 2 of these up..
#John Bailey is right, but they do have the NCV (non-contact-voltage) sense to light up and buz if voltage is detected. And the ‘Live’ setting that you can use one lead as I showed to measure if voltage is present.
@@KissAnalog The NCV feature isn't nearly as useful as the dedicated NCV testers, because it is just too sensitive and can't pick out individual wires as being live or not.
Awesome informative video again
Any reason why the sampling time with inrush current on most clamp meters is set at 100mS?
Thanks Kiss
Thank you! Yes, most inrush is specified to be settled at 100ms. Even for motors, it gives 5 cycle at 50 Hz and more for 60 Hz, so the inrush should have reached max by 100 ms.
I have one HT208D From KAIWEETS, it's working well now
Do you know if the HT208D DC amp is accurate under 1 amp to hunt down a Parasitic Draw?
This video got me thinking differently about the next multimeter to purchase. I was thinking a typical 2k-4k counts such as the HT113B but having a clamp type would be very useful and soooo much easier to check current on small solar panels and controllers. They cost more but hey, its only money. That 208D you reviewed is now ~$100. Will need to look for an older model...
Thanks for the great feedback. The price goes up and down depending on stock - I think. Here is a link for the one with the different display and many of the same specs for under $70: amzn.to/3tThhgo
@@KissAnalog Great minds... I bought a HT206D earlier today. The one you posted is a good price given the extras it comes with. I ordered the meter alone but for less then half the cost of the one posted. However, it will take 4 weeks to arrive. Thank you!
@@ridemfast7625 I have both the 206D and 208D, and the differences of the 208D are really worth the increment in price.
The 206D inexplicably lacks the range hold option, which makes min max readings less useful, and the 208D test leads are much nicer quality.
206D advantages are the smaller size and price. Also visibility in bright sunlight is actually better.
How does this compare to Ames CM 1000A?
Do you think that the ac/dc version is suitable to work with solar panel installation, even to work on the outside without the Cat IV on the leads? By the way nice review!
Thanks - that's a great question! When current is read thru a non-contact type method such as a clamp meter - I feel much safer! Also, there is no chance in connecting to a voltage with the probes in the current inputs, so no short with high voltage. So, the transient voltage or high voltage that can cause arcs when disconnecting leads is very much reduced too. So, I think this meter is safer for those reasons. What type of voltages and currents are you working with? What's the upstream breaker panel like?
Why isn't it measuring the frequency? It shows 0. 17:46
Thanks great question! I think the current has to be 1 Amp or higher to do that. Or in the voltage or Hz mode it reads it easily with the leads.
@@KissAnalog umm, I am not sure why it wouldn't read Hz in the mode with CT. I bought one and mine doesn't even show inrush. Should've just gotten a Fluke to begin with :/
My D version is unable to lock on any values and changes permanently by 15-20% no matter how constant is the measured parameter. The NCV is ridiculous and beeps all over the place like crazy. Temp is off by 4 °C, at least that's one consistent error 😄. Built quality is the nicest feature, comparable or better than UNI-T but most internal components are low spec low quality and factory calibration is sloppy as expected at that kind of price.
Have you checked out the newer looking analog meters?
I just got a KTI branded one from amazon for 12 bucks and it's really sweet.
Thank you! I’ll have to take a look at them;)
@@KissAnalog I don't know how accurate or robust they are but Ive used mine a few times and it hasn't broke yet.
I can't afford a Sanwa or Simpson but I wanted one just to have around.
I like using the analog for resistance measurements.
Very good, detailed review!
Thanks so much! I'm going to do one like this for high-end current meters - soon;)
05:50 it's written in red, like we see - but if we do NOT see, we have NO use for a meter anyway. And if you found out once, you should remember, should'n' t we?
LOL Yes Paul I'd have to agree;) But, I do have to find everything I can to point out - or someone else will;)
@@KissAnalog Oh yess, you are sooo right! I didn't want to disaproove (is this an English word?) your statements. Maybe I was proud to have found a lttle hint on the tool to find out ;-).
I liked all your information about the tool, as I was too lazy to read the instruction, so I could finish my washing of the dishes at the same time.
Good chanel, THUMBS UP!
@@paulwyleciol3459 LOL thanks Paul!
Hi, for the DC current measurement, Is use clamp on top or probes on bottom ? Thanks
Thanks for your question, but I'm not sure what you are asking. The probes to do on the bottom for other measurements, but the current is read with the clamps. Regarding DC current, there are arrows on the jaws that show positive to negative current flow.
Thank you 🙏
Also two thumbs up for you 👍👍
Thank you! I appreciate you!
I have the HT206D, I will look at the HT208D when I need another clamp meter.
Thanks for the Feedback! Your meter is a nice meter too, so no big need to upgrade. How do you like the 206?
@@KissAnalog 208D has range hold and better test leads, and a nice clam shell type case instead of pouch case, which I find significant enough to be worth the difference in cost.
When making a bunch of repeated measurements the range hold saves a lot of time and also allows minmax measurements that the auto range will mess up on.
Great review! I have to admit that Voltage / power scares me and I will also rather lose some precision than have to fiddle with live 240V - 400V. :-)
Thanks Fried Mule! I like clamp meters for current - safer;)
HT208D 40 bucks US delivered BG EU store with incl. VAT.
does not seem expensive as it is a quite feature packed 1000A AC & DC clamp meter... and just the casing alone would set me back 7 to 10 bucks.
How fast DC current signals can it notice? (high ampere DC signals form fx spotwelder?)
I agree - these are very nice - especially for the cost. I think the inrush is set for 100 ms, but I'd have to check the manual to be sure.
Two questions. What is the clock symbol in the upper left of the display? I'm assuming it's the battery status that turns in a low battery symbol?
Also, if there is no fuse why is there a fuse symbol in the book?
I got one of these last week and am familiarizing myself with the features. Other than those two mysteries I posted I like it a lot! I made a line splitter out of a shortish flat extension cord.
Clock symbol is the 15 min auto power off feature. It can be disabled for long term min max measurements.
In this 100ms capture what is capture segment 1ms,2ms,5ms?Only comparison with osciloscope can show inrush current value.
Oscilloscopes are the best when you also have a nice current probe, but these clamp on meters that have inrush current can capture faster than 100ms typically and are great for a simple inrush measurement;)
In the first 1 ms is inrush from led drivers.When I was looking for clamp for this purpose I found only 3 which can do this.Two types are above $1000 from Hikoi and from HT Italia and 1/2 cheaper in range of clamps from AEMC CHAUVIN ARNOUX.Rest of the clamps are useful for motor inrush and in 100 ms have few captures.
Is this suitable for testing thermocouples in the 20-30mV range?
On the bottom where the common/negative lead plugs in, maybe an idea would be marking it with a black ink like a permanent marker. Just my small contribution/suggestion if it's helpful to anyone.
Fantastic idea! Thank you!
I found an identical meter called Habotest , is it a fake version of this? Or both brands are original
Great question! They might actually be made by Habotest. Maybe it is the same parent company. I don't know;)
Would this be a good first meter. Im deciding between this meter and a lower end FLUKE ? Hard choice, any takes?
Great question! I think this is actually an east question;) I'd go for the Kaiweets HT208D.
@@KissAnalog I'd agree with this, it gives up very little to the Flukes, and has advantages over them.
My only real gripe is the min max mode, which isn't able to show the ongoing readings when you use that function. I can forgive it because it just does everything else do well. I checked mine against a lab standard for DC voltage accuracy, and it was off by 0.006%.
I measured by adjusting the calibrator until the display just rolled over to the test target, and recorded the actual voltage at that point, which is the only way to truly test it's accuracy. Otherwise it could be off by as much as 1 count.
I was suitably impressed.
Don't know if it's just a fluke 😉 that mine is that well calibrated though.. someone else will have to confirm if theirs performs similarly, if they have access to calibration equipment.
Thank you for the video. I'm from Russia. I was looking for a detailed review for a long time, no where was it. I found it with you. We call it Habotest ht208d. I bought it, after your review, I am very satisfied, all functions correspond, the accuracy class is high. Inrush only works over 10A, is it the same for you? Many thanks.
Glad I could help! Thanks for your feedback! Great to hear from our friends in Russia;)
Hi, are any of these meters any good when using the clamp for measuring inrush currents of below 1A (mA) ?
Thanks for the question! But to be sure, are you asking for inrush currents below 1 Amp, or meters that are good for inrush current and for low current measurements?
@@KissAnalog Yes I mean is this meter specifically (the HT208D) any good for measuring mA with the jaws, or is it only suitable for higher currents like >10A
@@JamesJames-um5xq it can readily measure currents below 1A, the 208D I got is surprisingly accurate and doesn't seem to be as prone to variation from the wire position within the jaws. Usually they want you to put the wire in the center of the opening, but mine doesn't seem that sensitive to position.
When are you going to review the uei meter.
I looked for my meter today but it is hiding from me;) I might have to buy another. I do want to add it to a shoot out video that I have planned.
I appreciated a lot the video. Thanks a lot.
Thanks so much!
Do these meters measure DC millivolts? Do they measure DC microamps?
Great question Dave, they do have a millivolt range (600mV for the 6k count and 400mV for the 4k count), but the lowest amp scale is 4A on the HT206 series. If you use this link it supports the channel for no extra cost and you should get a discount. kaiweets.com?sca_ref=1269738.glN6S8aePH
@@KissAnalog thanks for the response, I work in HVAC and I need a meter that will read microamps. GREATCHANNEL
@@daveyakutchik3493 if you really need to measure very small currents and only have this meter on hand, just get a low value resistor of known specification, and wire it in series with your circuit.
Then make a measurement across the resistor with your meter in millivolt mode. A simple calculation will give you your current. You could measure down to microamps if you really needed to, with the right resistor selection to use as a current sense.
If you want a clamp meter for currents in the microamp range, you're not likely to find one, though you can get current clamps with lower ranges that can be used along with a scope or DMM that will do that. Looping the current wire 20 times for 20x higher sensitivity can help to get better resolution also.
Thanks for the video and making me feel so dumb. I haven't used one before and I assumed clamp on meant to clamp the wire with the jaws which doesn't work. (: This fact should be in clamp on meters class 101.
LOL thanks for your feedback! A clamp on is the safest way to measure current. Not as accurate, but in the field - much safer;)
I am glad someone doesn't find that brand of meter iffy and says for the price they are good meters and that the 208d reads inrush current. I have ideal, klein, Greenlee, extech, uei, and commercial electric (a home depot store brand) also a few radio shack and Sperry and last but not least a ryobi and craftsman meters. I am game to try this one for myself to see if true
Thanks so much Ruben! Let us know how you like it! I think you will be pleasantly surprised;)
i think kaiweets just rebrand white label goods, but after testing and making sure it's good stuff i guess. you'd have to, in order to survive. not a problem with me - there's a market for that too.
Thanks for your feedback! I don’t know who makes their stuff but it is pretty darn good - especially at the price point!
Sir how to claim clamp meter warranty in india
Have you contacted Kaiweets? Let us know what you find out please;)
But you don’t have a control or independent measure to check it’s accuracy.
Thanks and you are right. But I don’t think I’ve ever seen a review where the accuracy was off;) The chips today are pretty good.
I'll just put in my data point where it was spot on when checked using a laboratory grade calibrator instrument. Amazingly accurate 👍
I really would have liked to see the displays WITHOUT the protective film! Sorry, but it can make a difference
Thanks for the feedback!
If using it in broad daylight, the 206D reflective type display is actually more readable. Need to shield the 208D with your hands to see it in those conditions.
excellent - thx a lot!!
Thank you!
Ordered a new one but found defective , not working after installing the batteries... returned.
Will order one more unit.
Wow - let us know how the new one works. Thanks!
@@KissAnalog The 2nd one is working OK 👍 still testing to check the accuracy of the meter , the results are quite satisfactory till now.
5:42
Got a Black Sharpie. Presto Change-O 😉
Perfect! It is really just that simple;) Good idea!!
Sweet eh!
Thank you!
With 340 million people in the US, one would think they would have made the temperature display read in ⁰F and not ⁰C. Leads without threaded tips for alligator clips are useless to me. Captured screw for the battery door would be a nice upgrade.
I have yet to meet somebody with a fetish for meters like you do.
LOL ;) Kaiweets has been good to this channel providing meters for review. I like the quality especially for the price.
Nice video, very nice
Thanks so much! I appreciate you!
สนใจแลิปมิเตอร์คะราาาเท่าไรค่ะ
Those are bad a$$ great review.
Thanks so much!
Meters have not got any better since 1860
LOL - I do like the inrush current capture;)
Kaiweets looks like made by Habotest
They do look the same, I don’t know who makes them, but they do seem to be getting their meters from the same manufacturing. Seems like good stuff - especially for the price.
I JUST BOUGHT ONE THE 280- D ,,THIS THING IS AMAZING!!!!!! FOR THE PRICES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks - I think it is an awesome meter
I MEAN 208 D
Yes I knew what you meant;)