Great video as always, very inspiring. As a future idea, I've heard spiral flute flush cutters are the way to go for that, but a little pricier than normal bits
Really useful tips and info! For a few seconds there I thought the 3rd bit was gonna be the winner for me, but I have to say, I'd still prefer to predrill and use a bit with a bearing 😋 But would be very interested to see another such video with a better quality bit without bearing.
If ever you have watched any Matt bangs wood videos, you will have seen him use this method of cutting out window and door frames, with a half inch shank router on very large builds. Worth a visit.
Kyle over at the RR Building UA-cam channel shows his router method and router bit at the start of his Building a Barndominium 18: Installing windows finally video. Worth a watch.
I've tried a few of the cheap weird brand router bits from amazon, and all of them I've had the bearings fail really quickly! I bought a pack of 4 that looked very similar to the ones you had. I was cutting ply lining for a van, and didn't even manage to do one full panel before all 4 bearings had fallen apart
Hi Tim. What's the final outer layer going to be ... timber cladding ? Also, wonder how much time you've got before all the CLS & OSB needs to be protected from rain. Thanks.
This build is coming along nicely ! I just don't know where you both get the energy !!.......but keep it up please. On another point I have just purchased a new laptop to follow all of my UA-cam vids, but i find even if I have my volume up 100% I still find on your Vids that I can not here your commentaries very well and have to put captions on { when avilable ! } so that I can get the gist of what you are saying.....so Is it your mic....or my age !? Thanks Bob
I find some UA-camr’s volume low (Samurai Carpenter springs to mind) but I have no issues with this channel. Maybe worth getting some headphones. Laptops often don’t have a great speakers. Also maybe you’ve turned the laptop volume up but make sure the volume is turned up in the UA-cam controls too.
Hi, I did the same when I boarded out a garage including the door. I don’t think I would do it any other way unless perhaps a roughing cut with a jigsaw or recip saw before tidying up up with a router. It was murder on the blades though. I think the glue in the OSB probably didn’t help. I also started with a smaller router and didn’t like how the motor strained so moved to the big boy router which had no problems at all.
I’m thinking that a part of the reason that 1/2” bit is working well is that it’s got the additional horsepower of the bigger router behind it. That bit in 1/4” or 3/8” size would likely bog down.
Good job thanks for the trial, it's always good to have some options to choose from, how comes you was wearing a mask and Jo didn't at the beginning, also who is the helper in black? 🙂👍
@@TheRestorationCouple yeah, it’s dropped recently, Travis perkins just quoted me £21 JW grant is £15/sheet but the nearest branch is over 100 miles away, I see some of the travellers are selling it on Facebook marketplace at £13/sheet but probably the imported Chinese stuff 🙄
@@TheRestorationCouple tbh i thought the comment section would of been full of people commenting exactly that. "Bet they have a full squad of workmen in" .. remember if you can do it yourself 😉
One of the behind the scenes production crew! 😂 No, that's Craig who dug out the brook a couple of weeks back, he offered to help with the insulation/battening last week. 👍
@@TheRestorationCouple I think the way you did it would tend to push the bit towards the outer frame - which is what you want in this case. I need some new template bits, might avoid the cheap ones - I haven't had a bit break yet, and don't want to start now :) Thanks for the video
A quality 1/2" bit on the corded router will make all the difference. Avoid the cheap ones because the cutters are usually poorly aligned so one cutter does all the work leading to excessive heat and vibrations. I've never had much luck with 1/4" bits. They fatigue and snap.
Tim your cutting OSB and not a finish wood like pine or oak, so using a larger bit which is designed to spin at a slower speed but peel more material cleaner, is completely different to how the Americans like to cut out their windows with really rough, small bits which can just nicely rip their way through on battery tools no less. Comparable problem to using a fine tool saw blade in a track saw for ripping instead of a larger tooth blade.
I was surprised that the small router bits did as well as they did given that OSB is pretty solid stuff with the masses of glue used to make it - I'd have gone for probably an 8 or 10mm bearing cutter in a 1/2 router.
I think that little yellow bit without a bearing would be better suited to doing the same job but with plasterboard as opposed to OSB. OSB is way too hard for it.
I think would have just gone at it with a hand saw from the outside running along the stud. Make an opening for the blade in the corners with a multitool or a router. Not fun in this heat but probably quicker and definitely quieter and less vibration on the hands.
For god’s sake have some mechanical sympathy man! That little router is not made for this work. It’s meant for small edge and detailing work. And put some candle wax on the tip of that router bit to lubricate it
It does seem rather alarming you had a router bit sheer off, you have put me off using routers even more! You are clearly very good with it though Tim. However you were yanking the extension chord at one point, previously others noted you were using the mitre saw and circular saw in a bit of a dodgy way. I am not meaning to snipe but building is dangerous, Roger Bisby of Skillbuilder had an accident quite recently, be careful not to get over confident when using power tools.
Secret helper at 14:36!
So BUSTED!
Slim Spiral down cut with a bottom bearing.
Much better than anything you used on this video.
Good work by the way.
My Whiteside spiral bits are great as well
I use these and find them good as no pilot hole required FREUD 26-100 CARBIDE 1/4" PANEL PILOT UP ROUTER BIT
Awww I love Tim and jo, they’re so sweet
Great video as always, very inspiring. As a future idea, I've heard spiral flute flush cutters are the way to go for that, but a little pricier than normal bits
Really useful tips and info! For a few seconds there I thought the 3rd bit was gonna be the winner for me, but I have to say, I'd still prefer to predrill and use a bit with a bearing 😋 But would be very interested to see another such video with a better quality bit without bearing.
If ever you have watched any Matt bangs wood videos, you will have seen him use this method of cutting out window and door frames, with a half inch shank router on very large builds. Worth a visit.
I'll take a look. Any idea what bit he uses?
Kyle over at the RR Building UA-cam channel shows his router method and router bit at the start of his Building a Barndominium 18: Installing windows finally video. Worth a watch.
Yes and Tim Uhler from Awesome Framers also shows his method/tools on UA-cam and Instagram
I've tried a few of the cheap weird brand router bits from amazon, and all of them I've had the bearings fail really quickly! I bought a pack of 4 that looked very similar to the ones you had. I was cutting ply lining for a van, and didn't even manage to do one full panel before all 4 bearings had fallen apart
“I feel like a human CNC” 🤣 great line
Another DIY lesson in how to cut out window and door spaces and it all makes complete sense as regard to enabling a 💪 building.
Hi Tim. What's the final outer layer going to be ... timber cladding ? Also, wonder how much time you've got before all the CLS & OSB needs to be protected from rain. Thanks.
This build is coming along nicely ! I just don't know where you both get the energy !!.......but keep it up please. On another point I have just purchased a new laptop to follow all of my UA-cam vids, but i find even if I have my volume up 100% I still find on your Vids that I can not here your commentaries very well and have to put captions on { when avilable ! } so that I can get the gist of what you are saying.....so Is it your mic....or my age !? Thanks Bob
I find some UA-camr’s volume low (Samurai Carpenter springs to mind) but I have no issues with this channel. Maybe worth getting some headphones. Laptops often don’t have a great speakers. Also maybe you’ve turned the laptop volume up but make sure the volume is turned up in the UA-cam controls too.
This is one of those 'blog' type channels and the audio isn't really mixed/compressed as well as it could be. Not complaining - great content.
Hi, I did the same when I boarded out a garage including the door. I don’t think I would do it any other way unless perhaps a roughing cut with a jigsaw or recip saw before tidying up up with a router. It was murder on the blades though. I think the glue in the OSB probably didn’t help. I also started with a smaller router and didn’t like how the motor strained so moved to the big boy router which had no problems at all.
I’m thinking that a part of the reason that 1/2” bit is working well is that it’s got the additional horsepower of the bigger router behind it. That bit in 1/4” or 3/8” size would likely bog down.
Tim officially an OSB Routa Ninja. It's always nice to see the fluffy crocodile on site aswell. What happened to your thumb did you make a boo boo ?
Knot a problem. Classic.
Good job thanks for the trial, it's always good to have some options to choose from, how comes you was wearing a mask and Jo didn't at the beginning, also who is the helper in black? 🙂👍
Love your work 👍
I will consider myself educated.Every days a school day. Thanks for that.
Yea you have to get the feel of how much pressure you are putting against the bit . You had it , to where it just glides across the 2x4.
Where did you get the yellow router bit from
How much is your 9mm osb costing you and from where?
I need about 100 sheets for my build….
Got a bulk deal from Bradfords, it was around £18-20 I think, but I did buy a few months back
@@TheRestorationCouple yeah, it’s dropped recently, Travis perkins just quoted me £21
JW grant is £15/sheet but the nearest branch is over 100 miles away, I see some of the travellers are selling it on Facebook marketplace at £13/sheet but probably the imported Chinese stuff 🙄
Hikoki do a cordless 1/2” router
@14.35 you had an intruder in the cabin 😂
We have a secret army of chippies off camera! 😉 (just a helper for the day)
@@TheRestorationCouple tbh i thought the comment section would of been full of people commenting exactly that. "Bet they have a full squad of workmen in" .. remember if you can do it yourself 😉
@@TheRestorationCouple cheat 😂
Thought it was just me that had an army of helpers 😆
Who is the person at 14:35 ?
One of the behind the scenes production crew! 😂 No, that's Craig who dug out the brook a couple of weeks back, he offered to help with the insulation/battening last week. 👍
Did you try going anticlockwise. Not so important for slot cuts but going in the same direction as the cutter rotation normally produces a better cut.
I did both but everyone I’ve seen does clockwise. No sure it made much difference in speed. Always a debate when it’s a slot rather than trim/edge. 😀
@@TheRestorationCouple I think the way you did it would tend to push the bit towards the outer frame - which is what you want in this case.
I need some new template bits, might avoid the cheap ones - I haven't had a bit break yet, and don't want to start now :)
Thanks for the video
Nice!
Sawzall has entered the chat
That plunge point router bit is best suited to drywall and of course, small numbers of plywood/OSB openings I think.
A quality 1/2" bit on the corded router will make all the difference. Avoid the cheap ones because the cutters are usually poorly aligned so one cutter does all the work leading to excessive heat and vibrations. I've never had much luck with 1/4" bits. They fatigue and snap.
I'm worried, have you forgotten 1st fix cable runs and pipe work?
1:04 why is there steps on the top of the OSB, you need to trim it later or is this because the chassis haven’t levelled out yet?
I think you will find this is a 2nd top plate.
It was a level sitting on top of the plate, you could just see a bit of yellow.
Would a plunging circular saw be good for the longer straight sections?
once set up correctly the router is the way to go. Fast, accurate.
Tim your cutting OSB and not a finish wood like pine or oak, so using a larger bit which is designed to spin at a slower speed but peel more material cleaner, is completely different to how the Americans like to cut out their windows with really rough, small bits which can just nicely rip their way through on battery tools no less. Comparable problem to using a fine tool saw blade in a track saw for ripping instead of a larger tooth blade.
If you start at 1 o'clock it doesn't try to fall on your head.
Where Jo’s mask man?
I was surprised that the small router bits did as well as they did given that OSB is pretty solid stuff with the masses of glue used to make it - I'd have gone for probably an 8 or 10mm bearing cutter in a 1/2 router.
I think that little yellow bit without a bearing would be better suited to doing the same job but with plasterboard as opposed to OSB. OSB is way too hard for it.
I think would have just gone at it with a hand saw from the outside running along the stud. Make an opening for the blade in the corners with a multitool or a router. Not fun in this heat but probably quicker and definitely quieter and less vibration on the hands.
Its way better because more powerful router ??... Hows this quicker and saver , than cutting as you go... more wast.
For god’s sake have some mechanical sympathy man! That little router is not made for this work. It’s meant for small edge and detailing work. And put some candle wax on the tip of that router bit to lubricate it
It does seem rather alarming you had a router bit sheer off, you have put me off using routers even more! You are clearly very good with it though Tim. However you were yanking the extension chord at one point, previously others noted you were using the mitre saw and circular saw in a bit of a dodgy way. I am not meaning to snipe but building is dangerous, Roger Bisby of Skillbuilder had an accident quite recently, be careful not to get over confident when using power tools.
With hand saw will be quicker...