How to make ANSI threads in sketchup web

[@justcheckinm8]

Something to note if people are going to turn the models into physical bolts (3D printing them) is that the arcs are not very circular. The whole circle is 24 segments by default, and that equates to a 15deg angle change between segments. If you made a nut to fit the thread without suitable clearance (by subtracting a copy of the bolt from another solid), it would lock at 1/24th rotation, or not even be able to be started. Subtracting a 'thing' from another 'thing' in 3d modelling is like cutting it with a blade that is 0mm thick. The cut faces actually occupy the same space.
Having a big clearance is fine if only using it for display purposes or a bit of fun. For anyone wanting to print their 3D model, I would recommend changing the segment count from the standard 24 to much higher and equally dividable by 360. I've done it at 144 segments (36*4) which makes for a 2.5deg angle change in each segment. The computer grunts a bit, but the model is a lot smoother when finally produced. You also have to remember that any other arc that you want to use for shaping the bolt, such as chamfers and tapers should also be set to the same segment count. It will help prevent really tiny holes appearing after solids operations which leaves you with "not a solid"

[@rexgoodheart3471]

I'm not sure I'll ever need to print an ANSI compliant bolt on my 3D printer, but your video is interesting and great, nonetheless. Thanks!

[@althomas4784]

Big Al from Draper Utah....Very Good, ..... Good information....

[@Drinnan]

Thanks for this. I viewed a video several months ago on how to make threads and it looks the exact same method as this but when pulling the threads in to the centre, it didn't work right at all. I'll have to try and find the older video to see if you done something that he didn't or if sketchup web has changed to allow this since I last tried

[@LT72884]

Its all in how you use the scale tool. You have to make sure that you use ctrl so that it is a uniform scale, and not just a scale on one side of the bolt. Remember that the scale tool is a percentage. Thank you for watching and im sorry for not replying sooner.

[@LT72884]

I have done it a few times in the web version as well to make sure it works. as of March and April, it worked. i will test again though.

[@xRoSkii]

How to make inner threads would be awesome to see!

[@tvideo1189]

Make the outer male threads as shown and subtract it from the solid you want threaded.

[@LT72884]

the inner threads are created. that is the second inside spiral. however, if you want them flat like the actual ansi standard, there is a way to do it. I will have to see if i can find the video of me making them. However, with 3d printing, there is no need for that flat section, its 1/H which ends up being 0.125mm for this particular thread. Larger threads, you could add them in:)
Here is the video where i show how to do inner threads
ua-cam.com/video/uMmIEQmU0Bg/v-deo.html

[@xRoSkii]

@@LT72884 Thanks bunches!

[@terrylewis5786]

@LT72884 Nice work. Do you know an easy way to may NPT threads? They have a slight tapered thread.

[@rexgoodheart3471]

My only problem with your video is where you pull down the round cylinder part of the bolt (i.e. the shaft beneath the head) onto the first thread. When 3d printing won't that create a problem with your slicer software in that there are some interior planes? I'm wondering why you just didn't leave that part alone since there was no break between the cylinder and the threads?

[@LT72884]

you could completely leave it and it will be fine:) as long as it is a solid at the end, moving it down did not cause issues with the slicer at the moment. You are right, there is s certain threshhold of where to place that shank.