I'm an ex Aust army mechanic, now in my 70's. Back in the day we used to have problems with the Centurion's Meteor, when the magneto engine speed governor, which was a small counterweight built into the magneto rotor, would cut spark at around 2800rpm, which in turn would cause a series of backfires. The backfires would ignite excess fuel in the carb venturi & would melt the secondary venturi, made of a fairly soft white metal, which would be ingested into the engine, causing a catastrophic failure. By removing this governor weight, we were able to get about 4 times more life, in engine hours, out of the engine. Plus a good tank driver would rarely over rev them as the power would drop off anyway, hence governor removal did not seem to cause any other problems. Really enjoy your work, please continue!!
I was once drying out the mag from my BSA 650 on the radiator in my mams living room. Bike mags don't like the rain you see. When I thought it was about dry I poked a rag covered finger inside to clean the slip ring and gave the armature a good spin with my other hand. That was an experience, I must have left my common sense outside in the rain that afternoon...
Got a friend who is very successful business dude but absolutely no common sense so when I asked him to put his finger in my bth mag off my A10 he said how can he help ...twist it ..... absolutely gold 😂⚡⚡
Wow fabulous and I just noticed the engine was overhauled at 27 District (Command) Workshop in Warminster, this was my first Posting in REME and I spent 3 wonderful years there.
I suspect the dry sump on the Meteor engine had more to do with its aviation origins (Merlin) than a desire to lower the C of G on a tank. Dry sump is needed on aero engines on aircraft that will be doing a lot of violent manoeuvring to ensure that there is always an oil supply to feed the pressure side of the oil pump and to scavenge oil from an engine that might be inverted, pulling heavy G loads or on its side. This is the reason they are also used on a lot of competition cars e.g. my 1977 Porsche 911 RSR and on motorbike engines e.g. the S&S V Twin X-Wedge engine in my Morgan Three wheeler.
@@FairladyS130 I can just see some war ministry policy wonk saying: "you are telling me we can save 10/6d per engine by making them wet sump - well bring it on" As long as the sumps were well baffled, wet sump would have worked perfectly well as a tank engine. For example one of the largest production runs of any tank engine, the Ford GAA, is wet sump.
@@csnelling4 So why are all bulldozer engines, which often operate at much greater angles than tanks commonly do, without any exception I can think of, wet sump. Dealing with gradients is just a matter of having a decently deep sump and well designed oil scavenge pick ups. The early Meteor engines were often made from Merlin engines which had been declared non-airworthy. Typically an engine that had been in a belly landing and where the crankshaft would have suffered a shock loading when an under power or windmilling propellor came into contact with the ground.
It never gets old seeing you and Jack bringing something back to life. Seeing the flames spew from the sides of the Meteor was beautiful. I can't wait to see everything fully working in the near future. Even better will be seeing the fully refurbished Mk III moving under its own power. I hope that the Tank Museum is appreciative of the risks Jack takes. 😊😊😂❤❤❤😂😊😊😊
Spectacular video Joe!!!!! So well explained, my wife now wants to see the toilet float work!!!! You guys were walking on water today brother. Well done. Oh ya, the shop looks top shelf too. Thanks Jack! 😃👍🏻👍🏻⚙️🧰🔧🛠🔩🪛
That was a bloody brilliant video The engine running in the dark was phenomenal Love the way you talk us through the engine before the running. Well done to all Involved 👍👍👍
Great job on the shop Jack, not a small project. A great tutorial Joe. Having heard four Merlin's, a Spitfire,a Hurricane and a Mosquito start, warm up and fly. They are a great sound.🥰 For pure noise you want A Wildcat, Corsair, Avenger and Skyraider all 50 feet away warming up!😵💫
They were all stunning for their time. Merlin got the most development (including larger oil pumps) so oil usage was less than any other variety of the day. The American radials guzzled oil. The P47 carried 45 gallons of oil. Flying with full drop tanks they had barely enough oil to get home.
Sounds like someone had a dictionary for breakfast before the shoot took place lol, so eloquently put, love these tank videos, I had many RC tanks in the past, some with sound kits, but none sounded as good as that RR V12 with open exhausts
Great to have the tour around the Meteor engine and lovely to hear it coming back to life with only minor recommisioning work requied, fascinating stuff keep up the good work.
Another thing to consider between wet sump to dry sump systems, are tanks going up down steep gradients and oil washing away from the oil pickup pipe hence the dry sump system on the Cent. They solved the problem on the J60 (CVRT’s)with a baffle system in the sump . I believe I still have a magneto points file somewhere in my tool box . I notice that was a 27DW rework engine , if you get an engine from 31DW I may of been a part of its rework and the signing off inspector.
Nice job there guys, good to hear it sing. To think that Engine was running around in the 1st Gulf War and now it's sat on your workshop floor just waiting to to get put in it's new home 👍👍
Mr Hewes. Sir. I must congratulate you on a well thought out explanation of how this engine works and how it relates however briefly, to a normal car engine. The simple way you did this was helpful to those like myself, who have watched your channel with fascination as you did what you do with these vehicles to get them up and running. Please continue to do the odd video on explaining how things work like this one.
Just before my time on Chieftain and Challenger (Mk1) but I believed from my older peers at the start of my time that when fitted in the Centurion they only ever changed 11 of the spark plugs as that 12th one was just too hard to access.
Takes me back years to the Local Repair Section at Bovington. I was a Tels Tech REME working as a Vehicle Electrician (Sparky) with the A Veh Mechs - the black hand gang Mainly on Chieftain and CVT(T)s with the occasional Centurion ARV. Oh the joys (!) of the pack lift!!!
Dear Joseph, These Rolls Royce V12 engines were very well constructed and at that time the biggest petrol engines made. Simultaneously Rolls Royce also built huge ship engines running on oil like a Diesel engine plus the company was (and still is) famous by their constructed engines for planes. I hardly an believe this engine was in your living room for such a long time and it still runs rather well. That says enough for the quality of these sort engines. Look forward to your next vlog and send you love from the Netherlands
@@dickdegraaff5455 WRONG !!!! NOT the largest "petrol engines made !!! the RR Griffon was larger, the PACKARD M2500 PT Boat engine was 50% larger than the Meteor and is an older engine, then we go into aircraft engined PW &Wright R1820 & 30's PW R2000 Wright R2600 PW R2800 Wright R3350 and PW R4360. All these are gas "Petrol" engines of the time, do some research before runnin your mouth !!!
They were 900BHP in the Conqueror, petrol injected. Sounded a bit more fruity. MOD apprentice, spent a year in an engine test house with a tilting Heenan and Fraud Dynamometer. It only went to around 1900 BHP and The Griffon 61 was a tad more than that in aircraft trim, but the 20 odd year old dyno held up under full thrutch. It was (I'm a bit dusty) I think we were about 20 BHP down, but the engine wasn't new nor the overloaded dyno. We had to fit large fans as the exhaust stubs looked like they were going to melt. After the est closed, I had a look through the window. Nothing left but a big hole. This test was in the late 60s, and I'm in my late 70s, so sorry to be so vague.
We had sheet metal ducting on ours connected to the test house extracts,with a compressed air venturi on the other end Otherwise the test cell used to overheat,cos the manifolds used to glow bright red
To get better at this, here's some tips: When priming the oil pump, use Marvel Mystery Oil. After filling the pump, pour the rest of the bottle into float bowls. Now you can prime the bowls. No need for pliers, just a small amount of petrol, MMO and time. Hard tools scratch the stem that has to travel inside the small hole on the lid. This needs some rag and lube too. Re-fit the oil lines and open the magnetos. Again, no need for hard tools, a piece of badly washed cotton sheet is all you need. It scrubs the points clean without the need of pulling anything apart and picks up all the residue. Chisels, files and sand paper not only wear the points out prematurely, but also introduces small ferromagnetic particles into this electro-mechanical system that relies on tiny air gaps and strong magnetic fields over these gaps. Now you can prime the engine as you did. The MMO inside the pump goes directly to the dry bearing surfaces reaching even the rings before the engine heats up again. If you want to, you can drop some MMO directly over the pistons through the spark plug holes to lubricate the cylinders. Just remember to spin the engine before installing the plugs back on to prevent hydro-lock. MMO is flammable, so it won't ruin your plugs, if it gets there, it will clean them by solving the soot. Why the "Snake Oil" treatment? When you are using this as an exhibition piece, it never runs at it's normal running temperature. So there is excessive amounts of carbon build-up everywhere inside the engine, and the thick oil simply can't cope with the constant cold start situation. MMO is the best cocktail on the market, and it is specifically designed to keep these machines running. The secret to First-Kick start is generous and full seasoning of the intake. It is dry in there, and lots of soot, dust, mice etc, so first quart basically sinks into the carbon build-up and no gas is entering the cylinders. This can be observed at the first try. The V6 closer to you had gas, but the outer one didn't. Although it is recommended to use just one cup of prime juice on a regular cold start to prevent flooding the plugs, when the firing interval is this long, both carbs need their own cups to get going. Magic here is time and timing. And here is everything extracted: Pull the oil feed line open and fill the pump with MMO. Screw the line back on and open the float bowl caps. pour MMO into the bowls, clean and lube the caps and screw them back on. pump a few squirts of petrol into the bowls and turn to the spark. pull plugs out and drop MMO onto the combustion chambers. Open the magnetos and clean the points and spinners with cloth. MMO helps here too. Now you can turn the engine over and find spark. While you're at it, you can check the oil flow. After these are in check, open the float bowls again. The floats should be free already, but if not, use your fingernails to gently wiggle them free. A gentle tap of a screw driver handle works too, just don't introduce any ferro-magnetic particles into the fuel system by using tool steel pliers.. When the floats are free and bowls are full, onto the finale. Two cups, one for each carb. After pouring, count to five before hitting the starter. The prime cups are solely for marinading the intake. The fuel system is adequate for running the engine, as long as it doesn't need to moist the intake too. Hit the starter and open the throttle on third turn.
I would think experience and the School of Hard Knocks. My suggestion is Brown packing paper; use the rough side . I cut the paper in strips and drew it through the contacts points burnishing away the silver oxide. I still have a Lucas burnishing Tool designed especially for cleaning contact points, without removing the points from the distributor. I learned this technique in the British Army. The School Of Hard Knocks Harrogate.
Obviously, the knowledge of the physics of every one of the components and how they interact with each other is the very Basis of the entire project. You cannot be an expert on spark plugs, and not know anything about a dry oil sump system. Same with carbs...you have to know the physics of the updraft carb, as opposed to a a fuel injection system, or other types of carbs. Points, rotors, timing....everything you use in any system has a corresponding action/reaction to the downside, upside, or Both, for the entire engine to work. But it all boils down to simple parts, one before or after another, working properly. The Complexity comes in how all of the simple parts interact with one another. One tip...the white stuff on the points is Not "corrosion"....it is Oxidation. The metals used in the contact surfaces of these points oxidize in normal atmosphere, and that oxidation accelerates when they are exposed to electrical currents and their arcs when they operate. The oxidized film gets more and more resistive as the layers of oxide builds up, eventually resulting in no current, and thus, no spark. Never use an abrasive to remove this oxidation. There are Chemicals that remove this oxide without abrading the remaining surface of your points. Once cleaned, then use a preservative on them. A Chemical preservative, not oil based. Oil on the points burns into the metal surfaces of the points, burning them out faster. It might be okay to use abrasives on points that can be replaced. These cannot. This is a Well Done project, and I, as a mechanic and an electrician, appreciate it.
The Meteor is coming up really great but it makes the whole difference working on the engine on it's stand then inside the tank. Always doing a great job 👏 👍👍
I have an engine like this said to be taken from a danisch tank. for starting purposes it should have a connector on one of the magnetos which to connect with an auxiliary high frequency non timed coil. the distributor rotor is "timing" the constant spark to the engine cylinder under compression so to ease starting at thes extra low revs the startermotor provides . Problem with my engine is it has not been stored properly so everything is corroded and I hate to ruin the small bolts and nuts needed to remove the parts to be restored like the carbs and magnetos. After years not yet ready to run ( and they dis swap the "smooth" camshaft cover for one with the bolts and flats where the oil filters have to mounted on , it does fit on the other end apart from two small bolts but it looks odd)
Absolutely worth the wait i was thinking why was 3 and 4 burning brighter but as if you knew i would ask...the answer came. No body wants a damp plug....
Thomas Crapper invented the system for toilets in Victorian London, as the toilet flush at that time was a plug which was removed to flush and often not replaced, this allowed toilets to continually flush. It was called the "Water Waste Prevention System". Cheers
As someone who isn't mechanically-minded (never driven a car - but no desire too either) found the explanation as to what various elements within the engine do really informative. As for using 'big words' a lie down may be in order lol
SPUD is getting a really nice engine, can't wait to hear it running when it is inside SPUD :D Also the workshop is looking really good, I wish my little workspace in my garage would look that good when I am finished with it, but it wont because I am only working with material I can get my hands on for free, or already have on hand, and it is no where near that big, mostly a wood working and somewhat of a storage space separated by a partition wall from the main garage space, which is mainly storage of stuff since the floors are rotted out since the ones who built it used large timber planks sitting right on top of piled up dirt...
I pissed myself laughing at the clip of Marvin being electrocuted after Jack 'connected' the batteries... I've rewatched a few times it has to be said 😂😂😂
Dry sump systems are more to do with inclined running capabilities than CG. With the dry sump system you don't have to worry about all your oil running away from the oil pick up (on BAe Terrier we put a dual scavenge pump in with pickups at both ends of the sump) the side tank gives time for the inevitable large quantities of air sucked in by the scavenge pumps to come out before the pressure pump gets the oil) I tested the engine for Terrier on a tilt table to 45° lateral, longitudinal and compound angles with no loss of oil pressure and acceptable levels of foaming (though controlling that is largely down to the additive package in the lube oil). We were also under height restrictions for the engine, heavy armour and ballistic louvres on the top meant that losing the conventional Caterpillar C18 oil pan was essential.
Great work all round. Engine looks amazing and didn't recognise the workshop. Having the tools like that should help you keep everything organised. Thanks for the start-up explanations. I sometimes use a drill on a twisty-type 'bottle' jack and it gets very hot in just a few seconds. Can see why your's struggled here.
Hello Mr here’s I love your videos I’m new to your channel ,my friend Warren put me on to you ,I did my apprenticeship at Henry boot in chobham Surrey,30 years ago now Just wanted to say hello 👍👋👋👋👋
@@MrHewes Thanks I never knew that, but tbh It's not surprising from an era of continuous improvement of engines just after the war, probably the best a block could get, so they just used it, plus easier to make since they have the casting bits already made.
Where we used to rebuild those MAGS & ignition harness’ in the workshop, we had one of them wired to the vice on the end of the bench. Anyone leaning on the vice, didn’t lean on it for long….
I'm an ex Aust army mechanic, now in my 70's.
Back in the day we used to have problems with the Centurion's Meteor, when the magneto engine speed governor, which was a small counterweight built into the magneto rotor, would cut spark at around 2800rpm, which in turn would cause a series of backfires.
The backfires would ignite excess fuel in the carb venturi & would melt the secondary venturi, made of a fairly soft white metal, which would be ingested into the engine, causing a catastrophic failure.
By removing this governor weight, we were able to get about 4 times more life, in engine hours, out of the engine.
Plus a good tank driver would rarely over rev them as the power would drop off anyway, hence governor removal did not seem to cause any other problems.
Really enjoy your work, please continue!!
Thats what happens when you over rev the engine !!!!
Looks like I wasted a lot of my time then setting up the governors to cut out @ 2600 rpm
I was once drying out the mag from my BSA 650 on the radiator in my mams living room. Bike mags don't like the rain you see. When I thought it was about dry I poked a rag covered finger inside to clean the slip ring and gave the armature a good spin with my other hand. That was an experience, I must have left my common sense outside in the rain that afternoon...
Been bitten by a magneto off a lycoming years ago. Life lesson never forgotten.. 😂
Got a friend who is very successful business dude but absolutely no common sense so when I asked him to put his finger in my bth mag off my A10 he said how can he help ...twist it ..... absolutely gold 😂⚡⚡
An old electrician friend once told me it's only a shock if you don't know it's going to happen! 😊
Quite something to see the glow from the open exhaust valves. Also a good demonstration of why Spitfires spit flames out of their exhausts.
This is a tank engine never intended for an aircraft !!! DUUUUHH!!!!!!!
@@wilburfinnigan2142 Um, you do know what the Meteor engine is based on, don't you?
@@farmersboy yeah reject Merlin aero parts , and no supercharger !!!! DUUUUHH!!!!!
@WS-47ha Its PART of an aero engine, rejected parts and most made of cast iron and no supercharger !!! DUUUH!!!!!!
I must say this whole thing is done in a very British way , I love it well done chaps .
English
complicated and back @$$ward !!!!
Wow fabulous and I just noticed the engine was overhauled at 27 District (Command) Workshop in Warminster, this was my first Posting in REME and I spent 3 wonderful years there.
I served my apprenticeship @ 38 central workshops REME @ Chilwell spent my last 2 years in the test house mainly on meteors & meteorite
Will it fit in my VW golf?
Nu cred...e prea Mic😂😂😂
If you cut open the firewall, maybe. 😂
Of course. So long as you don't intend to try to fit yourself in with it.
It could happen if you sat on the roof, Mr Bean style and gave up the entire cabin to that engine 🤔
I want to see the conversion done
That Meteor rips & Jack's tool wall is the mutts nuts , a workshop fit for hero's 😂😂😂
What I should.d have said its the Ted's testicles!
Love it, total masterclass stuff that you just won’t see anywhere else
Excellent episode. Have to confess you & Jack make a great duo.
nicely done... first time i have seen a mechanic do a proper pre start check out - smart young man !!!!
I suspect the dry sump on the Meteor engine had more to do with its aviation origins (Merlin) than a desire to lower the C of G on a tank. Dry sump is needed on aero engines on aircraft that will be doing a lot of violent manoeuvring to ensure that there is always an oil supply to feed the pressure side of the oil pump and to scavenge oil from an engine that might be inverted, pulling heavy G loads or on its side. This is the reason they are also used on a lot of competition cars e.g. my 1977 Porsche 911 RSR and on motorbike engines e.g. the S&S V Twin X-Wedge engine in my Morgan Three wheeler.
Tank engines need dry sump lubrication systems too.
@@FairladyS130 I can just see some war ministry policy wonk saying: "you are telling me we can save 10/6d per engine by making them wet sump - well bring it on" As long as the sumps were well baffled, wet sump would have worked perfectly well as a tank engine. For example one of the largest production runs of any tank engine, the Ford GAA, is wet sump.
Got to be honest ...I thought spitfire as soon as the lights went out .ha ha ha.
Hill gradients and oil pump pick up pipe running dry .
@@csnelling4 So why are all bulldozer engines, which often operate at much greater angles than tanks commonly do, without any exception I can think of, wet sump. Dealing with gradients is just a matter of having a decently deep sump and well designed oil scavenge pick ups. The early Meteor engines were often made from Merlin engines which had been declared non-airworthy. Typically an engine that had been in a belly landing and where the crankshaft would have suffered a shock loading when an under power or windmilling propellor came into contact with the ground.
Beast of an engine and what a soundtrack when it's running
It never gets old seeing you and Jack bringing something back to life. Seeing the flames spew from the sides of the Meteor was beautiful.
I can't wait to see everything fully working in the near future. Even better will be seeing the fully refurbished Mk III moving under its own power.
I hope that the Tank Museum is appreciative of the risks Jack takes. 😊😊😂❤❤❤😂😊😊😊
Is Jack on the same pet insurance as the dog ?
@@WisdomShortvids Don't be daft. That's going to be too expensive. 🤣🤣🤣
Re the flames - brilliant view watching the valves light up
Very nice walk through. Walls are looking great. Should really help with the lighting.
That home alone bit had me in stitches 😂
Spectacular video Joe!!!!! So well explained, my wife now wants to see the toilet float work!!!! You guys were walking on water today brother. Well done. Oh ya, the shop looks top shelf too. Thanks Jack! 😃👍🏻👍🏻⚙️🧰🔧🛠🔩🪛
Pretty sure he showed that on one of the other Centurions, possibly El Cid.
That was a bloody brilliant video
The engine running in the dark was phenomenal
Love the way you talk us through the engine before the running.
Well done to all
Involved 👍👍👍
That shelving and organization work is exquisite.
Great job on the shop Jack, not a small project. A great tutorial Joe. Having heard four Merlin's, a Spitfire,a Hurricane and a Mosquito start, warm up and fly. They are a great sound.🥰 For pure noise you want A Wildcat, Corsair, Avenger and Skyraider all 50 feet away warming up!😵💫
Yep, although the best noise of all is from the Bristol Centaurus ;-)
They were all stunning for their time. Merlin got the most development (including larger oil pumps) so oil usage was less than any other variety of the day. The American radials guzzled oil. The P47 carried 45 gallons of oil. Flying with full drop tanks they had barely enough oil to get home.
Sounds like someone had a dictionary for breakfast before the shoot took place lol, so eloquently put, love these tank videos, I had many RC tanks in the past, some with sound kits, but none sounded as good as that RR V12 with open exhausts
What an absolute treat! Thank you for taking the time to make this, an awesome piece of kit. 💪😊👍
Great to have the tour around the Meteor engine and lovely to hear it coming back to life with only minor recommisioning work requied, fascinating stuff keep up the good work.
For cleaning the points pinch a nail board from one of the ladies. It does both contacts at the same time.
My Grandfather taught me that one. He has a jar with nail boards of differing grades
Another thing to consider between wet sump to dry sump systems, are tanks going up down steep gradients and oil washing away from the oil pickup pipe hence the dry sump system on the Cent. They solved the problem on the J60 (CVRT’s)with a baffle system in the sump . I believe I still have a magneto points file somewhere in my tool box . I notice that was a 27DW rework engine , if you get an engine from 31DW I may of been a part of its rework and the signing off inspector.
You might know this. Why was the test sheet marked, Ex-Op Granby? What was a Meteor doing in the Gulf War? Cheers.
@@johnnunn8688 Cent ARV's AVRE's etc
@@andyt3304 , thanks. I googled the armour that went but they didn’t mention them.
That was actually bloody brilliant watching that beast of an engine run and spit fire in the dark!!!
Should pop it back in the living room, would rather watch that for an hour than pretty much most TV!
I love the positive energy you bring to your videos, it's contagious.
Nice job there guys, good to hear it sing. To think that Engine was running around in the 1st Gulf War and now it's sat on your workshop floor just waiting to to get put in it's new home 👍👍
Mr Hewes. Sir. I must congratulate you on a well thought out explanation of how this engine works and how it relates however briefly, to a normal car engine. The simple way you did this was helpful to those like myself, who have watched your channel with fascination as you did what you do with these vehicles to get them up and running. Please continue to do the odd video on explaining how things work like this one.
Best Show on TV featuring Fonzarelly and Ritchie Cunningham, Happy Days...😊 Miss u already..
Good to see my old mate Chris's monika on the paperwork. Yeah, I used to work there too.
Just before my time on Chieftain and Challenger (Mk1) but I believed from my older peers at the start of my time that when fitted in the Centurion they only ever changed 11 of the spark plugs as that 12th one was just too hard to access.
So awesome seeing history be restored, besides the fact that the engine looks & sounds wicked running in the open like that!
Just what you want on a cold winters morning. Brilliant, especially filming through the light sensitive lens.
What a beautiful piece of British Engineering. Great to see it burst of life.
Listen to that music! Jack...the shop look awesome! Great work!
Takes me back years to the Local Repair Section at Bovington. I was a Tels Tech REME working as a Vehicle Electrician (Sparky) with the A Veh Mechs - the black hand gang Mainly on Chieftain and CVT(T)s with the occasional Centurion ARV. Oh the joys (!) of the pack lift!!!
them were the days
Bravo Mr H. Cant wait to see the beast come to life.
Thanks!
Guys, that's a thing of great beauty. Thanks for sharing.
That engine sounds so great. hits 2-ways, tanks and old aircraft...👍🇺🇸😎
I still prefer seeing and hearing the RR lighting up as the Christmas tree.
Great job as usual,the shop is looking like a store display,very nice!!
Favourite UA-cam channel no question, love the explanations on the more technical aspects of these engines. Keep up the good work!!
One of the best tank engines of all time.
Dear Joseph,
These Rolls Royce V12 engines were very well constructed and at that time the biggest petrol engines made. Simultaneously Rolls Royce also built huge ship engines running on oil like a Diesel engine plus the company was (and still is) famous by their constructed engines for planes.
I hardly an believe this engine was in your living room for such a long time and it still runs rather well. That says enough for the quality of these sort engines.
Look forward to your next vlog and send you love from the Netherlands
Definitely not...has to be diesel
@@marc9796 I said 'one of' and I stand by that.
@@dickdegraaff5455 WRONG !!!! NOT the largest "petrol engines made !!! the RR Griffon was larger, the PACKARD M2500 PT Boat engine was 50% larger than the Meteor and is an older engine, then we go into aircraft engined PW &Wright R1820 & 30's PW R2000 Wright R2600 PW R2800 Wright R3350 and PW R4360. All these are gas "Petrol" engines of the time, do some research before runnin your mouth !!!
I want that in my Land Rover Defender 90. That would wake the neighbours up at 6 in the morning. Great engine.
Those exhaust flames always look awesome
Quite impressed with the Milwaukee drill! 😮
Excellent job. Amazing to see the old girl run.
They were 900BHP in the Conqueror, petrol injected. Sounded a bit more fruity. MOD apprentice, spent a year in an engine test house with a tilting Heenan and Fraud Dynamometer. It only went to around 1900 BHP and The Griffon 61 was a tad more than that in aircraft trim, but the 20 odd year old dyno held up under full thrutch. It was (I'm a bit dusty) I think we were about 20 BHP down, but the engine wasn't new nor the overloaded dyno. We had to fit large fans as the exhaust stubs looked like they were going to melt. After the est closed, I had a look through the window. Nothing left but a big hole. This test was in the late 60s, and I'm in my late 70s, so sorry to be so vague.
Which test house?
We had sheet metal ducting on ours connected to the test house extracts,with a compressed air venturi on the other end
Otherwise the test cell used to overheat,cos the manifolds used to glow bright red
What a absolute beautiful sight of the RR V 12 running ,ya done well mate
One of the best intros to ICE I have heard in many, many years!
Way cool! Geez you blokes have some great toys!
Oh, and surely the final words on the video should be "Tanks for Watching"?
Love when Joe gets all enthusiastic and hyper.. he loves this machine...... And great job on the workshop Jack.. nice work..
Brilliant video glad Jack is back and the workshop looks mega.
Engine sounds awesome and the shop is looking great!
To get better at this, here's some tips: When priming the oil pump, use Marvel Mystery Oil. After filling the pump, pour the rest of the bottle into float bowls. Now you can prime the bowls. No need for pliers, just a small amount of petrol, MMO and time. Hard tools scratch the stem that has to travel inside the small hole on the lid. This needs some rag and lube too. Re-fit the oil lines and open the magnetos. Again, no need for hard tools, a piece of badly washed cotton sheet is all you need. It scrubs the points clean without the need of pulling anything apart and picks up all the residue. Chisels, files and sand paper not only wear the points out prematurely, but also introduces small ferromagnetic particles into this electro-mechanical system that relies on tiny air gaps and strong magnetic fields over these gaps.
Now you can prime the engine as you did. The MMO inside the pump goes directly to the dry bearing surfaces reaching even the rings before the engine heats up again. If you want to, you can drop some MMO directly over the pistons through the spark plug holes to lubricate the cylinders. Just remember to spin the engine before installing the plugs back on to prevent hydro-lock. MMO is flammable, so it won't ruin your plugs, if it gets there, it will clean them by solving the soot.
Why the "Snake Oil" treatment? When you are using this as an exhibition piece, it never runs at it's normal running temperature. So there is excessive amounts of carbon build-up everywhere inside the engine, and the thick oil simply can't cope with the constant cold start situation. MMO is the best cocktail on the market, and it is specifically designed to keep these machines running.
The secret to First-Kick start is generous and full seasoning of the intake. It is dry in there, and lots of soot, dust, mice etc, so first quart basically sinks into the carbon build-up and no gas is entering the cylinders. This can be observed at the first try. The V6 closer to you had gas, but the outer one didn't. Although it is recommended to use just one cup of prime juice on a regular cold start to prevent flooding the plugs, when the firing interval is this long, both carbs need their own cups to get going. Magic here is time and timing.
And here is everything extracted: Pull the oil feed line open and fill the pump with MMO. Screw the line back on and open the float bowl caps. pour MMO into the bowls, clean and lube the caps and screw them back on. pump a few squirts of petrol into the bowls and turn to the spark. pull plugs out and drop MMO onto the combustion chambers. Open the magnetos and clean the points and spinners with cloth. MMO helps here too. Now you can turn the engine over and find spark. While you're at it, you can check the oil flow. After these are in check, open the float bowls again. The floats should be free already, but if not, use your fingernails to gently wiggle them free. A gentle tap of a screw driver handle works too, just don't introduce any ferro-magnetic particles into the fuel system by using tool steel pliers.. When the floats are free and bowls are full, onto the finale. Two cups, one for each carb. After pouring, count to five before hitting the starter. The prime cups are solely for marinading the intake. The fuel system is adequate for running the engine, as long as it doesn't need to moist the intake too. Hit the starter and open the throttle on third turn.
Just an idle question where on earth does your extensive knowledge come from?
@@glencoe8251 From people on Earth. Through the medium of conversation and co-operation. The key being respectful approach.
I would think experience and the School of Hard Knocks. My suggestion is Brown packing paper; use the rough side . I cut the paper in strips and drew it through the contacts points burnishing away the silver oxide. I still have a Lucas burnishing Tool designed especially for cleaning contact points, without removing the points from the distributor. I learned this technique in the British Army. The School Of Hard Knocks Harrogate.
@@VK7AM Works great when dry, but not when wet. Thus I use an old piece of cotton sheet. :)
Obviously, the knowledge of the physics of every one of the components and how they interact with each other is the very Basis of the entire project. You cannot be an expert on spark plugs, and not know anything about a dry oil sump system. Same with carbs...you have to know the physics of the updraft carb, as opposed to a a fuel injection system, or other types of carbs. Points, rotors, timing....everything you use in any system has a corresponding action/reaction to the downside, upside, or Both, for the entire engine to work. But it all boils down to simple parts, one before or after another, working properly. The Complexity comes in how all of the simple parts interact with one another.
One tip...the white stuff on the points is Not "corrosion"....it is Oxidation. The metals used in the contact surfaces of these points oxidize in normal atmosphere, and that oxidation accelerates when they are exposed to electrical currents and their arcs when they operate. The oxidized film gets more and more resistive as the layers of oxide builds up, eventually resulting in no current, and thus, no spark. Never use an abrasive to remove this oxidation. There are Chemicals that remove this oxide without abrading the remaining surface of your points. Once cleaned, then use a preservative on them. A Chemical preservative, not oil based. Oil on the points burns into the metal surfaces of the points, burning them out faster. It might be okay to use abrasives on points that can be replaced. These cannot.
This is a Well Done project, and I, as a mechanic and an electrician, appreciate it.
The Meteor is coming up really great but it makes the whole difference working on the engine on it's stand then inside the tank. Always doing a great job 👏 👍👍
Brilliant, thanks for taking us around , nothing like experience , very interesting ,
The shop looks great!
The Meteor running in the dark was awesome 👍
I have an engine like this said to be taken from a danisch tank. for starting purposes it should have a connector on one of the magnetos which to connect with an auxiliary high frequency non timed coil. the distributor rotor is "timing" the constant spark to the engine cylinder under compression so to ease starting at thes extra low revs the startermotor provides . Problem with my engine is it has not been stored properly so everything is corroded and I hate to ruin the small bolts and nuts needed to remove the parts to be restored like the carbs and magnetos. After years not yet ready to run ( and they dis swap the "smooth" camshaft cover for one with the bolts and flats where the oil filters have to mounted on , it does fit on the other end apart from two small bolts but it looks odd)
Not enough Ted... Barn looks stunning!
Hi Mr Hewes I love your videos keep the great work up have a good Christmas regards Simon
Damn that's a beautiful sound...
The setup is now looking professional and that you know what you are doing
The shop looks great. Very well organized.
A Rolls-Royce V12 is on my list of V12 engines I'd like to acquire, it'd look and sound great next to my dad's Hall-Scott V12
Thank you for letting us watch and its a great engine when its running it souds good 👍 and take a break and drink tea 🫖
Absolutely worth the wait i was thinking why was 3 and 4 burning brighter but as if you knew i would ask...the answer came. No body wants a damp plug....
Wonderful video of the combustion flame in the cylinders…sooo cool! ( hot actually )
Thomas Crapper invented the system for toilets in Victorian London, as the toilet flush at that time was a plug which was removed to flush and often not replaced, this allowed toilets to continually flush.
It was called the "Water Waste Prevention System".
Cheers
Hya Jack. I used to own a company that did factory wall linings. Very well done my friend, very well indeed.
Well done Jack the shed looks more like a garage now😎👍
Very interesting! Impressive work!
Thank you for sharing!
That wall of spanners... lovely!
Well done guys Ted did a great job on the work shop tools look sharpe and the drafts will be reduced I would have thought
Inertia is a fantastic word, very pleasing on the ears.
Brilliant video; superb presentation.
That electric shock clip though 👌🏻😂
Nice workshop upgrade!
Nearly shit myself 😂😂
As someone who isn't mechanically-minded (never driven a car - but no desire too either) found the explanation as to what various elements within the engine do really informative. As for using 'big words' a lie down may be in order lol
Beautiful light show,love how you can exhaust valve opening,
There is just nothing as cool and violent as a tank engine! Good show boys!!
Cool shots showing the open valves.
Anthony
Nice job on the workshop Jack. I first thought that you must have been borrowing a mates place. Good to see the engine firing up so well.
Looks and definitely sounds a thing of beauty.
SPUD is getting a really nice engine, can't wait to hear it running when it is inside SPUD :D
Also the workshop is looking really good, I wish my little workspace in my garage would look that good when I am finished with it, but it wont because I am only working with material I can get my hands on for free, or already have on hand, and it is no where near that big, mostly a wood working and somewhat of a storage space separated by a partition wall from the main garage space, which is mainly storage of stuff since the floors are rotted out since the ones who built it used large timber planks sitting right on top of piled up dirt...
Very informative and interesting video. Clearly know your Meteor engines and great seeing it run up.Jacks done a great job with the workshop
I pissed myself laughing at the clip of Marvin being electrocuted after Jack 'connected' the batteries... I've rewatched a few times it has to be said 😂😂😂
Been binge watching your stuff, subbed!!!
Awesome! Thank you!
impressive RR that , and Jacks handy work is prity special too looking very professional now guys
Dry sump systems are more to do with inclined running capabilities than CG. With the dry sump system you don't have to worry about all your oil running away from the oil pick up (on BAe Terrier we put a dual scavenge pump in with pickups at both ends of the sump) the side tank gives time for the inevitable large quantities of air sucked in by the scavenge pumps to come out before the pressure pump gets the oil) I tested the engine for Terrier on a tilt table to 45° lateral, longitudinal and compound angles with no loss of oil pressure and acceptable levels of foaming (though controlling that is largely down to the additive package in the lube oil). We were also under height restrictions for the engine, heavy armour and ballistic louvres on the top meant that losing the conventional Caterpillar C18 oil pan was essential.
Great work all round. Engine looks amazing and didn't recognise the workshop. Having the tools like that should help you keep everything organised. Thanks for the start-up explanations. I sometimes use a drill on a twisty-type 'bottle' jack and it gets very hot in just a few seconds. Can see why your's struggled here.
Good job on the workshop looks very professional
You're doing an excellent job especially for having never been through Tank Wrench School in your MOD.
Hello Mr here’s
I love your videos I’m new to your channel ,my friend Warren put me on to you ,I did my apprenticeship at Henry boot in chobham Surrey,30 years ago now
Just wanted to say hello 👍👋👋👋👋
Nice job there Jack,looks alot better and organised 👍😉
A thing of beauty seeing the flames belching out on that test run, reminds me of the Spitfires exhaust.
Same block
@@MrHewes Thanks I never knew that, but tbh It's not surprising from an era of continuous improvement of engines just after the war, probably the best a block could get, so they just used it, plus easier to make since they have the casting bits already made.
I once saw a Rover 6cyl run like that, fantastic. Just double it
Where we used to rebuild those MAGS & ignition harness’ in the workshop, we had one of them wired to the vice on the end of the bench. Anyone leaning on the vice, didn’t lean on it for long….
Nice work Legends !! 👍