You are the MAN!. I have been struggling with hard starts in cold weather on my craftsman tractor with an 18.5HP ohv engine. Wish I'd seen this before I replaced the battery. Wish I'd seen this before I replaced the starter motor. 30 minutes after finding this video it was SMOOTH STARTING. Going to leave it in the driveway overnight (will drop into the 20's) and fire it up tomorrow morning. It was about 40 this morning. Not freezing... but the engine would have barely caught prior to your valve adjustment advice. This time it fired up in about a half second. THANKS AGAIN.
Best video for the valve adjustment on the Briggs and Stratton that I've found so far. Especially watch for the studs backing out, that I didn't see in other videos. So far I've replaced my 5 year old battery to no avail. Now I'm going to try this valve adjustment before installing the new starter that I already bought.
I wrote out notes for myself to do this away from internet. Sharing here: TOOLS: 10mm open end wrench Feeler gauges Spark plug wrench/socket 3/8 socket Long screwdriver (8-12” shaft) T20 torx bit PREP: Remove engine cover Remove valve cover Remove hood and light cable Remove spark plug (and check gap .030) Remove valve cover, w rag underneath to catch any oil drips. Rap cover all around to pop it loose. Or pry, but save gasket if you can. reusable. Exhaust valve rocker is on top (steel pushrod) FIND TOP DEAD CENTER: Rotate engine by hand clockwise until both valves close as piston pushes screwdriver out as far as possible. Just after intake valve closes = power stroke. Continue to rotate further until screwdriver reenters cylinder by 1/4''. Adjust valve gap at that point Hold outer nut with 10mm and turn inner torx counterclockwise. (Tighten studs if loose at engine casting. Aluminum heads, so not too tight) SET GAP: Set 5-7 thou. exhaust valve. Set using .006 feeler Set 3-5 thou. for intake. Use .004 feeler Turn outer 10mm nut w fingers until feeler gauge is held snugly. Then hold outer nut w 10mm to not change setting while tightening torx set screw. Tighten torx set screw to 5 ft lbs. 60 in/lb. (Can use wrist rotate only, not elbow grease, to not over torque) Ok to reuse intact gasket. May need thin coat of gasket seal if it has been leaking onto exhaust. Replace all other covers and reattach lights.
Thank you I was actually doing a work for my class and there is all I need to write but I will not just copy paste just I will take what I need of the info
Good video! On my Briggs 18.5 HP Intek, the intake valve was super loose. It was running rough like a carb or spark problem. Adjusted the valves at TDC, but I did not rotate 1/4 inch past TDC. It ran very good, but was hard to start. Had to rotate the engine off the compression stroke to get it started. Apparently, that extra 1/4 inch past TDC engages the compression release. Re-adjusted the valves again plus the 1/4 inch past TDC, and it cranked every time after that. Thanks!
You mentioned to position the cylinder after intake and before exhaust 1/4" past TDC. Nobody else had those details. One guy even had the exhaust and intake backwards. Good job on your part.
@@jeffslawnmowerrepairandservice I don't have the repair manual so let me ask a quick question. I have oil coming out of exhaust when it started for 3 seconds . Valve lash setting made no difference. The carb is still flooding after using an eBay rebuild kit or is the problem a cylinder head gasket or some breather tube? Thanks for your insight. Bsee2000@gmail.com
Best video I've found on the subject. Other guys, supposedly pros, are confused on some basic points. One guy doesn't know how to tell the exhaust from intake valve. Another guy just sets them all to .004 without looking up specs. Neither of them explains top dead center. I guess there's some wiggle room in the process, but you wonder how many of them can stay in business.
@@jeffslawnmowerrepairandservice Unfortunately not everyone can read technical manuals correctly. By the way, I used your method on my Snapper rear engine rider with an 11.5 hp OHV Briggs engine and it now runs like a dream. It's been breaking my arm every time I start it for the past 2 seasons. Now pulls easily, starts easily, and runs very steadily with more power. The problem started after I did a valve adjustment as part of general maintenance 2 years ago. And it seemed to get worse. I'm thinking I must have used one of those videos with bad info. So glad I found yours and got things going right.
I just acquired an old Snapper Mower that is built like a tank but does have a stamped-steel Deck. It has a 6.75 HP Intek OHV Engine. It is VERY hard to start, mainly because the rope is very hard to pull. Assuming the Compression Release is not working. Hoping a Valve adjustment will solve the issue. Thanks for the video as it will help me a lot. Update: So I adjusted the Valves to .005". Still hard to pull the Rope. Took out the Spark Plug and still hard to pull the Rope. So there is a Belt between the Engine shaft and the Disk Drive. Maybe take off the Belt and see if it pulls easy? Help!
Thanks for the helpful info, sadly for mine, everything was in spec! I replaced the alternator because I wasn’t getting charging from my flywheel, then the damn thing wouldn’t fire normal. Key was seated properly and it seems timed right, tightened it down, but still back fire! A conundrum. I guess I’ll have to re-tear down and re-evaluate.
Excellent brother. I was given a b&s 12.5 h.p. looks very similar,same starting issues..where would I get the specs for adjustment,would you know? Brilliant sculpture!
Can one assume that the valve closest to the exhaust pipe is the exhaust valve? Is there a way of looking at them to tell which is the exhaust and which is the intake?
I know a couple of people that will set both on 2 to 2 and a half. They did it for years. I have never read anywhere where they set them that close. Could it be because they didn’t rotate the piston down 1/4”?
Maybe, good question. I can't recall if the service manual mentions that. I don't think it does suggest it. I have always just retightened and never had one come loose a second time.
Check leakdown to check rings, valves, and head gaskets. Adjust the valves. If a rocker arm is loose, the valve seat could be loose. Replace the head. With the rocker off, remove the spring and move the stems back and forth to check the guides. If worn, replace the head. With rockers off, if the valve sticks, hit the spring with a hammer to unstick the valve. Replace the springs since they lose tension. Check head bolt torque. Remove the spark plug to make turning the engine easier. Get an insert kit in case the plughole strips.
Got a question what causes a mower to backfire and run like crap, won't idle for it's life and is running extremely rich? It did it with the old carb that looked like it got hammered on so owner bought a new carb and has the exact same issue. Details snapper rider unknown year Briggs 14hp up to 17hp unknown due to no plate or sticker muffler is busted. Neither carb appears to be adjustable but runs piss poor and very rich. I've never worked on a non adjustable carb so unsure of issue.
@@jeffslawnmowerrepairandservice mine is the 18 HP BS . are they all the same valve adjustments in your manual? The video I followed was for the 17 HP BS model. I really don't want to ruin this motor.
I'll be putting my engine back together in a little bit and will do this for sure.... I'm honestly amazed the difference that just made. I've had a motor in the past where I'd have to hit the key and take my hand and spin the top of the motor over... Obviously this was the problem! Thank you so much
Very helpful but it would have been useful to demonstrate the valve clearance BEFORE and after so people will know more about what amount of clearance is too much causing the hard crank situation. ❤
Hi. Just want to let you know yout video helped me adjust the valves on my 850e, although my problem actually was the intake valve staying open. I don't know how that happened, but i had to grind the valvstem down to make it close again. nevertheless afterwards i knew how to adjust the valves :D
Thanks for all the effort you put into making these videos, they are extremely helpful! I replaced a broken flywheel key on my 14.5 B&S OHV yard machine riding mower. I also adjusted the valves. Everything seems okay but when trying to start nothing happens and I cannot turn the flywheel manually. If I loosen the flywheel bolt I can spin the flywheel and also engage it by attempting to start the mower. Yet if I tighten the flywheel bolt even slightly, the flywheel will not spin. Any thoughts on what I am missing? Thanks!
Thanks for the video. Very helpful. On mine, the intake stud was EXTREMELY loose. It was so loose, I tightened it so much, I thought the stud was stripped out, but it finally tighten up. Mower runs great now.
Thanks this video was on the money, perfectly explained including the exact tools needed, will keep watching your videos. Blessings for you & family take care. From Joey
@@jeffslawnmowerrepairandservice Thanks for the info it only did it once It's possible that is what happened and the at hydro locked But when I pulled the plug today it was totally dry and then started right up no gas in the oil Either
Yeah. When I had to swap the valve cover on my mower, I had made the mistake of not drain the oil, and all the oil spilled out and went everywhere. Next time, I’m definitely draining the oil first 😂
@@SiteReader caught me by suprise had to go back to video. C/S stands for crankshaft- rotation is viewed from crankshaft end, when viewed from other end its opposite. Some manuals will state which end to view rotation from. Hope that answers your question.
@@jeffslawnmowerrepairandservice It's the same way on my Briggs Intek 18.5 HP. Intake on bottom, and exhaust on top. Easy to tell because of where the exhaust manifold is at.
Still helping folks 5 years later! tyvm
awesome!
You are the MAN!. I have been struggling with hard starts in cold weather on my craftsman tractor with an 18.5HP ohv engine. Wish I'd seen this before I replaced the battery. Wish I'd seen this before I replaced the starter motor. 30 minutes after finding this video it was SMOOTH STARTING. Going to leave it in the driveway overnight (will drop into the 20's) and fire it up tomorrow morning.
It was about 40 this morning. Not freezing... but the engine would have barely caught prior to your valve adjustment advice. This time it fired up in about a half second. THANKS AGAIN.
Great to hear, good job!
Best video for the valve adjustment on the Briggs and Stratton that I've found so far. Especially watch for the studs backing out, that I didn't see in other videos. So far I've replaced my 5 year old battery to no avail. Now I'm going to try this valve adjustment before installing the new starter that I already bought.
You may need a new cam (compression release may be broken, very common issue) if these procedures do not fix it.
Valve adjustment did the trick. Exhaust was loose and the intake was tight. Starting easy so far.
@@jeffslawnmowerrepairandservice
I wrote out notes for myself to do this away from internet. Sharing here:
TOOLS:
10mm open end wrench
Feeler gauges
Spark plug wrench/socket
3/8 socket
Long screwdriver (8-12” shaft)
T20 torx bit
PREP:
Remove engine cover
Remove valve cover
Remove hood and light cable
Remove spark plug (and check gap .030)
Remove valve cover, w rag underneath to catch any oil drips.
Rap cover all around to pop it loose. Or pry, but save gasket if you can. reusable.
Exhaust valve rocker is on top (steel pushrod)
FIND TOP DEAD CENTER:
Rotate engine by hand clockwise until both valves close as piston pushes screwdriver out as far as possible.
Just after intake valve closes = power stroke.
Continue to rotate further until screwdriver reenters cylinder by 1/4''.
Adjust valve gap at that point
Hold outer nut with 10mm and turn inner torx counterclockwise.
(Tighten studs if loose at engine casting. Aluminum heads, so not too tight)
SET GAP:
Set 5-7 thou. exhaust valve. Set using .006 feeler
Set 3-5 thou. for intake. Use .004 feeler
Turn outer 10mm nut w fingers until feeler gauge is held snugly.
Then hold outer nut w 10mm to not change setting while tightening torx set screw.
Tighten torx set screw to 5 ft lbs. 60 in/lb. (Can use wrist rotate only, not elbow grease, to not over torque)
Ok to reuse intact gasket. May need thin coat of gasket seal if it has been leaking onto exhaust.
Replace all other covers and reattach lights.
Thanks!
Thank you I was actually doing a work for my class and there is all I need to write but I will not just copy paste just I will take what I need of the info
Thx very helpful.
Good video!
On my Briggs 18.5 HP Intek, the intake valve was super loose. It was running rough like a carb or spark problem.
Adjusted the valves at TDC, but I did not rotate 1/4 inch past TDC. It ran very good, but was hard to start. Had to rotate the engine off the compression stroke to get it started. Apparently, that extra 1/4 inch past TDC engages the compression release.
Re-adjusted the valves again plus the 1/4 inch past TDC, and it cranked every time after that. Thanks!
Thank you for watching
You mentioned to position the cylinder after intake and before exhaust 1/4" past TDC. Nobody else had those details. One guy even had the exhaust and intake backwards. Good job on your part.
Thanks Gary. I use my genuine Briggs and Stratton service manual for all repair information.
@@jeffslawnmowerrepairandservice I don't have the repair manual so let me ask a quick question. I have oil coming out of exhaust when it started for 3 seconds . Valve lash setting made no difference. The carb is still flooding after using an eBay rebuild kit or is the problem a cylinder head gasket or some breather tube? Thanks for your insight. Bsee2000@gmail.com
Best video I've found on the subject. Other guys, supposedly pros, are confused on some basic points. One guy doesn't know how to tell the exhaust from intake valve. Another guy just sets them all to .004 without looking up specs. Neither of them explains top dead center. I guess there's some wiggle room in the process, but you wonder how many of them can stay in business.
These direction I give are straight outta the Briggs Service manual
@@jeffslawnmowerrepairandservice Unfortunately not everyone can read technical manuals correctly.
By the way, I used your method on my Snapper rear engine rider with an 11.5 hp OHV Briggs engine and it now runs like a dream. It's been breaking my arm every time I start it for the past 2 seasons. Now pulls easily, starts easily, and runs very steadily with more power.
The problem started after I did a valve adjustment as part of general maintenance 2 years ago. And it seemed to get worse. I'm thinking I must have used one of those videos with bad info. So glad I found yours and got things going right.
It is simple...Most repair shops are also into sales...They want to make money from parts instead of labor.
Nice video well done I like your homemade lawn ornament
Thanks friend
I just acquired an old Snapper Mower that is built like a tank but does have a stamped-steel Deck. It has a 6.75 HP Intek OHV Engine. It is VERY hard to start, mainly because the rope is very hard to pull. Assuming the Compression Release is not working. Hoping a Valve adjustment will solve the issue. Thanks for the video as it will help me a lot.
Update:
So I adjusted the Valves to .005". Still hard to pull the Rope. Took out the Spark Plug and still hard to pull the Rope. So there is a Belt between the Engine shaft and the Disk Drive. Maybe take off the Belt and see if it pulls easy? Help!
Im having yo put in a new head gasket and yours explains the valve clearance process better than any of the other videos i have warched. Thanks!
Thanks for the helpful info, sadly for mine, everything was in spec! I replaced the alternator because I wasn’t getting charging from my flywheel, then the damn thing wouldn’t fire normal. Key was seated properly and it seems timed right, tightened it down, but still back fire! A conundrum. I guess I’ll have to re-tear down and re-evaluate.
When I find a loose stud I take it out and put it back with thread locker just to make sure it doesn't vibrate loose again. Just a thought.
Excellent brother. I was given a b&s 12.5 h.p. looks very similar,same starting issues..where would I get the specs for adjustment,would you know? Brilliant sculpture!
Can one assume that the valve closest to the exhaust pipe is the exhaust valve? Is there a way of looking at them to tell which is the exhaust and which is the intake?
Exhaust valve is on top my man you can see it if you look closely when you have the valve cover off.
The exhaust valve will look brown around the spring
You show one of the few correct videos on how to do this job. Nice video.
thanks!
All correct info here unlike other posts.
I know a couple of people that will set both on 2 to 2 and a half. They did it for years. I have never read anywhere where they set them that close. Could it be because they didn’t rotate the piston down 1/4”?
Would you suggest loctite on that stud that was loose?
Maybe, good question. I can't recall if the service manual mentions that. I don't think it does suggest it. I have always just retightened and never had one come loose a second time.
The manual states to rotate counter clock wise 1/4 inch past tdc.
You said rotate clockwise 1/4 inch past tdc.
What is correct?
when the piston top moves down 1/4 past tdc
I've watched lots of vids on this, yours is by far easiest to understand. Thankyou
Very good video. Regards from a happy amateur from Denmark 😊
Hello! I am happy it helped, thanks for watching
Check leakdown to check rings, valves, and head gaskets. Adjust the valves. If a rocker arm is loose, the valve seat could be loose. Replace the head. With the rocker off, remove the spring and move the stems back and forth to check the guides. If worn, replace the head. With rockers off, if the valve sticks, hit the spring with a hammer to unstick the valve. Replace the springs since they lose tension. Check head bolt torque. Remove the spark plug to make turning the engine easier. Get an insert kit in case the plughole strips.
Got a question what causes a mower to backfire and run like crap, won't idle for it's life and is running extremely rich? It did it with the old carb that looked like it got hammered on so owner bought a new carb and has the exact same issue.
Details snapper rider unknown year Briggs 14hp up to 17hp unknown due to no plate or sticker muffler is busted. Neither carb appears to be adjustable but runs piss poor and very rich.
I've never worked on a non adjustable carb so unsure of issue.
I will be setting the valve lash tomorrow to see if that helps
Just did mine but I thought it was .004 and .004. But did'nt do TDC. . I did the one up one down way like on the Taryl fixes all video.
Coolman! I hope that works o.k. for you. My procedure is directly from the Briggs and Stratton manual but there are other ways to do it.
@@jeffslawnmowerrepairandservice mine is the 18 HP BS . are they all the same valve adjustments in your manual? The video I followed was for the 17 HP BS model. I really don't want to ruin this motor.
On the compression stroke both valves are closed and on the power stroke both are closed then exaust is open
Does this use one or two valve caps at the end of the valve stem? It sits in between the rocker arm and valve stem
each valve has one part number 691843
"AWESOME" after struggling for awhile, I finally got it. My riding lawn mower never ran so smooth. THANK YOU !!!!!!!
Glad it helped!
Best instructional video I have seen on how to set the valve lash.
Thanks
thanks friend!
Great job, i have the same problem with my lawn mower, i will try to do the same job you just did, thank you very much for the vid.
Glad to help
Where can one find the specs for the valve spacing?
In the video, around 8:15
Thank you for saying what the GAP is....
I'll be putting my engine back together in a little bit and will do this for sure.... I'm honestly amazed the difference that just made. I've had a motor in the past where I'd have to hit the key and take my hand and spin the top of the motor over... Obviously this was the problem! Thank you so much
You explained it better then the rest. thank you
thnaks for watching
So I am assuming the tore 16 hp briggs and stratton ohv is the same correct
yes
What's the specs to set the valves for Briggs & Stratton 18 horsepower
Best video out there on this job. Great job!!
Wow, thanks!
What is that brown thing moving in the background at first of the video
Bigfoot
Great video. What is the valve adjustment for a Briggs Stratton Model 31R707033G1 powerbuilt 15.5 engine. Which feeler gauge do I use for this.
.004 & .004
Great Video! Thank You
Thanks friend!
Great video Jeff very helpful thank you and I'll be subscribing to you and watching more.
Thanks friend!
Very helpful but it would have been useful to demonstrate the valve clearance BEFORE and after so people will know more about what amount of clearance is too much causing the hard crank situation. ❤
Great suggestion!
Hi. Just want to let you know yout video helped me adjust the valves on my 850e, although my problem actually was the intake valve staying open. I don't know how that happened, but i had to grind the valvstem down to make it close again.
nevertheless afterwards i knew how to adjust the valves :D
Glad it helped. The valve guides can back out sometimes and need to be tapped and secured back into place
Thanks for the advice.
Great video
Thanks friend!
Thanks Sir Please keep up the good work man Thanks again . You don't mention the Compression release being the cause for hard Start Thanks Sir
You are right I should have emphasized more that if the adjustment does not work it will need a new cam.
Thank you for the lesson
Thank you Sir, God blesa you
Thanks for all the effort you put into making these videos, they are extremely helpful!
I replaced a broken flywheel key on my 14.5 B&S OHV yard machine riding mower.
I also adjusted the valves. Everything seems okay but when trying to start nothing happens and I cannot turn the flywheel manually. If I loosen the flywheel bolt I can spin the flywheel and also engage it by attempting to start the mower. Yet if I tighten the flywheel bolt even slightly, the flywheel will not spin. Any thoughts on what I am missing? Thanks!
I bet there's something under the flywheel that's binding or the key is binding up in there preventing the flywheel from seating on the taper.
My name is Donnie. I have a 10 hp Briggs and Stratton generator. It blows gas through the OHV cover. I have a video of it. Help?
the carburetor is flooding
Will this apply to a 20 hp?
Yes , only if it is a single cylinder Intek engine like this
@@jeffslawnmowerrepairandservice ya it is. Thank you for your reply!!!
I liked the Brain comment - most left out tool
Thanks for the video. Very helpful. On mine, the intake stud was EXTREMELY loose. It was so loose, I tightened it so much, I thought the stud was stripped out, but it finally tighten up. Mower runs great now.
good work
I like the videos thanks for teaching
good job
Thanks friend
Very helpful. Thank you, sir.
What the hell is that thing bouncing around in the back ground??? it can be seen at 1:22 and either side of that a bit....
Very well explained. Thank you.
Thank you extremely good video
thank you!
You sound like Jack Nicolson
thanks?
Thanks this video was on the money, perfectly explained including the exact tools needed, will keep watching your videos. Blessings for you & family take care. From Joey
L
Go sell crazy somewhere else, we're all full up here.
Excellent!!!
I'd be cleaning that oil off the gasket and the mating surface to prevent oil leak.
Good tip
Brilliant thanks
16:34 😂😂😂😂❤❤
I think your lawn mower was used too much when it was new. Never the less, good job.
Kohler engine cranks hard at compression stroke leeking fuel through the exhaust
carburetor is flooding and needs cleaning and or rebuilt. Also need fresh oil
@@jeffslawnmowerrepairandservice Thanks for the info it only did it once It's possible that is what happened and the at hydro locked But when I pulled the plug today it was totally dry and then started right up no gas in the oil Either
Kovasti sähellystä, mutta jätetään kertomatta välykset.
8 minuutin kohdalla tulee molemmat välykset ihan kirjoitettunakin
5 horse engine single cyl
When a engine is on comp. stroke....both cam lobes are facing downward,valves SEATED! 👍
I always drain my oil first so that I don’t have to buy new oil
oil is expensive these days!
Yeah. When I had to swap the valve cover on my mower, I had made the mistake of not drain the oil, and all the oil spilled out and went everywhere. Next time, I’m definitely draining the oil first 😂
😜😜
🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Motor má zasranej, že je to až ostudné. To je vrak.
Just a intek in disguise
Jackson Nancy Williams Linda Lopez Maria
You're turning the engine in the WRONG direction. The B&S manual stipulates that the engine is to be turned counter-clockwise for valve adjustment.
it's ok
When viewed from c/s. read the whole procedure before commenting another know it all UA-cam s full of them
@@joepacheco4038 What does c/s stand for? Just trying to get this straight in my own mind. Thanks.
@@SiteReader caught me by suprise had to go back to video. C/S stands for crankshaft- rotation is viewed from crankshaft end, when viewed from other end its opposite. Some manuals will state which end to view rotation from. Hope that answers your question.
@@joepacheco4038 Yes, very clear answer. Thanks for taking the time.
Smith Patricia Thomas Eric Young Sarah
I think You have the intake and the Exhaust confused
No the Exhaust valve is on top Intake on bottom
@@jeffslawnmowerrepairandservice
It's the same way on my Briggs Intek 18.5 HP. Intake on bottom, and exhaust on top. Easy to tell because of where the exhaust manifold is at.
Intake pushrod is aluminium ..the bottom exhaust is on top wich is steel.