Ive watched a dozen videos at least and youre the only one to mention this, i was so confused because when i tore my engine down it looked like it was 180 out according to the dots, you made it make sense, Thank you!
I watched 100 videos and I’m proud to say you the only one who got the dam thing right..I’ve been trying to crank my small block for 4 days 180 degrees off…thank you!!
I wished I would have watched your vid before putting my engine together. I've been cranking for days with no compression. Finally got it to work. Great vid
oh my god thank you so much. im doing the motor in my 84 gmc (first motor build) and you just answered all my questions in one shot. This video should be at the library
When dots are together (cam at 6 and crank 12 o clock) you are at TDC on the exhaust stroke. When both dots are at 12 you are on at TDC for intake/power stroke
Same Here; After so many videos of timing chain setup/adjustment especially from certified expert mechanic; this video explains to you about the dots facing away n facing each other and why distributor is 180 degrees off, thank you for this video and explaining it well, cause i was going insane trying to figure out what I was doing wrong...
Thank u so much nobody on UA-cam ever explained it like u did I was wandering why my cam was pointing up now I k ow abs I’m 100% confirmed with what I have to do thank u so much!!!!! Grate job
😂 lol I also thank you a million, I couldn't start my engine ,got back firing ect.. after I followed your instructions it started right up, thanks again 🤠👍💯
I did the same with a back fire so loud it had my ears ringing for a few hours. After that I was scared to crank it over again. Watched this vid I’m back up and running
So what your saying is after lining timing gears up rotato engine over once and cam dowel should be in 9 o clock position and leave it there for final assembly?
Thank you for taking the time to fully explain that. I did fuck it up my first time putting it back together. I moved crank with distributor in and didn't really pay attention. I watched your video again last night and knew exactly where I fucked it up. Thank God it didn't damage any engine parts. Wish me luck for the restart.
@@SquarebodyStuff you know how many people's sanity you saved bro. You should get a "Metal Of Chevy" if that's a thing lol. I'll be watching your stuff first sir.
So on the intake stroke both will be at 12 so I gotta turn it one more time where the crank is at 12 and the cam sprocket is at 6 to get it on the compression stroke and then I can start putting it back together?
A very very very important and overlooked step by 99% of amateur engine builders is to check the clearance of the top timing gear and chain from the 3 oil galley bosses behind the timing gear, some engines will clear with no issues but alot of blocks especially the later style roller blocks the timing chain will rub against the block and fill the engine with very fine metal shavings, I have taken apart a ton of backyard built sbcs where that gear or chain was hitting and left a bad grinding spot in the block, the only solution if yours is hitting is to take a grinder and clearance the block or use an oem timing set, if you have a block completely disassembled it's always best to add a bit of clearance there before the block gets it's final cleaning. Some of the double roller timing sets will give you instructions to check for clearance, please in the future don't overlook this step and inform others to check also it's a very very common issue that alot of people run into.
@@johngrepo9976 I have never seen a thrust washer used on one of these but in theory the on the backside of the gear is a machined wear surface but the real problem is the blocks oil passages bosses can be casted too thick and hit the gear teeth if you do some Google search on this topic you will find pictures of where they hit, not all blocks hit/rub but most do there are alot of people who have gotten away with slapping them on and just running it but always check.
Yes. I spin every engine I build (not a shop, but a seasoned mechanic), then check for any interference. The machinist I go to always ensures the galley bosses are ground down with new plugs installed in the block at that point. Definitely good to always double check clearances.
Thanks, I'm glad my videos have helped out. If you work the chain around in a tub of oil for just a few minutes is sufficient. All your trying to so is get some oil inside the links.
I comment pass few days , about my distributor being off 180 degrees, so I did what you said in the video but no change; engine crank but no start; took it to a mechanic and conclusion was that all piston had no compression 80 to 90 , was too low , thats why my engine wont start not enough spark on piston.. so he had to overnight let it dry ( piston n spark plug) and would turn on; but will only last for 20 or so minutes until if flooded; so will try to use a can of deep creep foam or seafoam spray from oriellys and added to the pistons leave overnight and check compression; seen other videos that will add compression 10 to 15 more . will see ,
So if I want to removed a gear drive I assume there will be dots on those to line up at 6 and 12 and I just pull that off and replace with double roller with dots in same position and all good? Correct? And will a double roller fit behind a SWP on a SBC?
So basically when the intake valve closes that's when I want to set crank at 12 and set the cam gear with timing chain on to 6. When I rotate to cam gear to 12 that is when I should feel air blow out the spark plug hole?
Just the opposite. When the intake valve just closes your crank will be at 12 and the cam gear mark will also be at 12. That is top dead center (TDC) of the intake stroke. Rotate the crank one more time and both valves will be closed on the TDC of the compression stroke. Crank mark should be at 12 and the cam mark should be at 6.
Question for ya? I just installed double roller chain and its tight. the thing that's weird is if i rock crank very slighty back and forth i feel a tiny bit of play. it seems like there play between lower gear and chain. Is that normal? seems like less than a 1/8 movement. thanks
for some reason i cant get it to drop the rest of the 8th of an inch when i have it set exactly like that piston at its peak camdot 6 o clock 180 turn to 12 with crank rotated and its does not drop all the way down in it
between 13:57 and 14:00 before you cut the video the top and bottom gear was at 12 o clock,then after the cut the cam gear was at 6 o clock and the crank gear was at 12 o clock...my qustion is after you went 180 degrees AFTER you installed the timing chain did you keep roating clock wise till the dots meet at 6 oclock and 12 oclock? (doing my first rebuild)
If you have both of them at 12, and install the distributor, you can put it wherever you want at that point. I usually just leave it there. No since in rotating it anymore than you have to before startup and break in.
It the point of instilling the chian it will be when the dots line up close together. Cam dot will be at 6 and crank will be at 12. Now that info is good for small and big block chevy. Any thing else you have to check a manual to double check. If the heads are on and rockers installed, it's when the exhaust valve is closing and the intake just starts to open up. ua-cam.com/video/nehh879I1CM/v-deo.html
Thanks for the tip. I'm pitting an Edelbrock top end kit on my 78 Nova. Will be the first time doing it. How do we know when we are on top dead center intake stroke?
@@SquarebodyStuff Thanks bud, also since my engine will be in my car, I'm assuming my transmission would have to be in neutral in order for me to turn my engine.
Con los dos puntos juntos, el pistón número 6 y número 1 estarán en el punto muerto superior. El número 1 estará en la carrera de admisión y el número 6 estará en la carrera de compresión.
@@SquarebodyStuff a ok y yo preocupado porque lo ponía los 2 puntos justos y quién estaba en la carrera de compareció. Era el 6.. bueno quiere decir q estoy bien otra cosa que hice fue montar la cadena sin lubricarla.. tendré problemas o no..?
I am resealing up my engine and while I have the timing cover off I figured I'd throw another timing set in there. This video helps me know exactly what I am going to be looking at. I also am going to be doing a rear main seal. I have found some good videos out there but not many. That would be a good video for you to do. Showing replacing a rear main seal with engine inside the truck. You teach and explain things well. I understand the job now from watching another guy's video but it seemed excessively long. I think you would do a good one, without the unneeded stuff .
I have a question that I know you can answer, I installed a comp cam 3200 timing chain kit, the chain has slack on both side of the sprocket which Is too much, but I don’t have the lifters lashed or preloaded yet. My question is When I valve lash the lifters and preload them will the chain get tighter or do you think I need to go with a shorter timing chain? Thanks in advance.
I've tried to explain this on a few of my tiktok videos and I've become some kind of SBC villain. I shared the link to this video on my page, I hope thats alright and I hope it gets you some views. THANK YOU
Just to make sure…. You install the gears and chain dot to dot… ounce installed. You make a 180o revolution to put the dot at the 12 position before putting your distributor… right?
Turn the crankshaft 360 degrees. That will have both dots at the 12 o'clock position. That is TDC on the firing stroke on #1. This is where you stab the distributor.
I know. I stopped using that intro over a year ago. I started to hate it too. No need for a theatrical intro for a UA-cam channel. Now it's just a 5 second intro. I do appreciate the feedback.
@@SquarebodyStuff False. It covers only whatever engine you're working on. Can you put the same timing chain from a 4.3 on a 5.7? No? Gee I wonder why that is: maybe because IT'S A DIFFERENT ENGINE
Actually, the 4.3 and 5.7 do take the same timing chain. All small block chevy engines from 262 through 400 use the same timing set. The installation process is the same for the big block chevys and several other American v6 and v8 engines.
@@SquarebodyStuff sigh...what's the point. They're not even the same length timing chains🤦🏽♂️🤦🏽♂️🤦🏽♂️ can't make this stuff up. I'd love to see you try to put a timing chain from a 4.3 on a 5.7. Make sure you record the look on your face when you realize "wait a minute... It doesn't fit"
If you don't understand that when you install timing gears, when the dots are lined up you're firing #6 cylinder. You should not be working on engines. Furthermore, you don't have to worry about what way your distributor is pointing. Start wires as it's on #6. I never had a motor crank for more than 1 minute before it started.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
For more videos featuring my 1979 c10 shortbed we call Creampuff go check out this playlist. ua-cam.com/play/PLzr1ksHJJMTx0oAm6F7SDyvUMOAQWFNjB.html
You don't have to re set the cam timing after setting the valve lash.
ua-cam.com/video/gqHHPU2eVIQ/v-deo.html
I honesty believe that this is the very best video that I've watch on setting up your timing parts. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks, I really appreciate that.
He'll yeah it is great guy great vid
Ive watched a dozen videos at least and youre the only one to mention this, i was so confused because when i tore my engine down it looked like it was 180 out according to the dots, you made it make sense, Thank you!
Thanks, I really appreciate the positive feedback. I'm glad my video helped out.
I watched 100 videos and I’m proud to say you the only one who got the dam thing right..I’ve been trying to crank my small block for 4 days 180 degrees off…thank you!!
Awesome, thanks for the comment.
I’m grateful for your initial alignment error… the catch showed me what I needed to see. ❤
I wished I would have watched your vid before putting my engine together. I've been cranking for days with no compression. Finally got it to work. Great vid
Of all videos out there this is the Final Authority, the tip about turning crank 180* just saved me a lot of curse words!!! You the man!!!
Thanks, I'm glad it helped
oh my god thank you so much. im doing the motor in my 84 gmc (first motor build) and you just answered all my questions in one shot. This video should be at the library
Thanks. I'm glad you got some good out of it. I never know when I'm shooting the video if what I'm saying makes any sense, LOL.
@jeffrey vaughn your dial pin was at the 3 o'clock position on your 84 sbc ?
When dots are together (cam at 6 and crank 12 o clock) you are at TDC on the exhaust stroke. When both dots are at 12 you are on at TDC for intake/power stroke
Your right he's wrong
@@privatename8888 so what way to u install the damn thing lol
@@privatename8888hes almost right hes just saying tdc intake, instead of saying tdc exhaust, hes got it all set up right
This video was exactly what I was looking for, thank you for the content
You're welcome, thanks for watching.
Same Here; After so many videos of timing chain setup/adjustment especially from certified expert mechanic; this video explains to you about the dots facing away n facing each other and why distributor is 180 degrees off, thank you for this video and explaining it well, cause i was going insane trying to figure out what I was doing wrong...
Been looking for this info for 2 weeks now, first one that explains it like it should be done. Thanks a lot. JS in Virginia
Comments like these make this all worth while. I'm glad my video helped out. Good luck on the project.
Thank u so much nobody on UA-cam ever explained it like u did I was wandering why my cam was pointing up now I k ow abs I’m 100% confirmed with what I have to do thank u so much!!!!! Grate job
Thanks
😂 lol I also thank you a million, I couldn't start my engine ,got back firing ect.. after I followed your instructions it started right up, thanks again 🤠👍💯
That's awesome. I'm glad I could help out. I appreciate you letting me know. These comments are what really keeps me motivated.
I did the same with a back fire so loud it had my ears ringing for a few hours. After that I was scared to crank it over again. Watched this vid I’m back up and running
thanks for this explanation first time cam swaping my corvette c4 are at this stage right now..
Thanks bud After installing my chain it all made sense once I had hands on.
Good to see you are using a double roller an Aussi made chain
So what your saying is after lining timing gears up rotato engine over once and cam dowel should be in 9 o clock position and leave it there for final assembly?
Yes
Great video. I made the same mistake before
Love peace and axle grease brother ❤
Thanks for your time an hard work an sharing with us all
Small ziploc bag works good for lubing chain doesn't take much oil. put bag in garbage when done no mess.
Thank you for taking the time to fully explain that. I did fuck it up my first time putting it back together. I moved crank with distributor in and didn't really pay attention. I watched your video again last night and knew exactly where I fucked it up. Thank God it didn't damage any engine parts. Wish me luck for the restart.
I'm glad I could help out. Good luck on the start up
@@SquarebodyStuff you know how many people's sanity you saved bro. You should get a "Metal Of Chevy" if that's a thing lol. I'll be watching your stuff first sir.
Thanks
So on the intake stroke both will be at 12 so I gotta turn it one more time where the crank is at 12 and the cam sprocket is at 6 to get it on the compression stroke and then I can start putting it back together?
Great. Video helped a lot with my first build will be watching more of your stuff made it so simple to understand
Awesome to hear that my videos helped out. I appreciate the feedback.
Thanks was having problems with this , it helped God bless you
I'm glad it helped out. Thanks for watching.
Dot to dot like you have it, is on #6 cyl. If it was on #1 then both dots would be at 12:00.
Kind of like I have it around the 13:05 and 15:05 minute mark?
Great explanation of this. Thanks for your effort!
only thing missing was showing the distributor being off 180 degrees when it was on the exhaust stroke
Thank u I see why my lt1 won't start life saver been doing it wrong whole time
A very very very important and overlooked step by 99% of amateur engine builders is to check the clearance of the top timing gear and chain from the 3 oil galley bosses behind the timing gear, some engines will clear with no issues but alot of blocks especially the later style roller blocks the timing chain will rub against the block and fill the engine with very fine metal shavings, I have taken apart a ton of backyard built sbcs where that gear or chain was hitting and left a bad grinding spot in the block, the only solution if yours is hitting is to take a grinder and clearance the block or use an oem timing set, if you have a block completely disassembled it's always best to add a bit of clearance there before the block gets it's final cleaning. Some of the double roller timing sets will give you instructions to check for clearance, please in the future don't overlook this step and inform others to check also it's a very very common issue that alot of people run into.
Isn't there a thrust washer that prevents the gear from making contact with the block?
@@johngrepo9976 I have never seen a thrust washer used on one of these but in theory the on the backside of the gear is a machined wear surface but the real problem is the blocks oil passages bosses can be casted too thick and hit the gear teeth if you do some Google search on this topic you will find pictures of where they hit, not all blocks hit/rub but most do there are alot of people who have gotten away with slapping them on and just running it but always check.
Yes. I spin every engine I build (not a shop, but a seasoned mechanic), then check for any interference. The machinist I go to always ensures the galley bosses are ground down with new plugs installed in the block at that point. Definitely good to always double check clearances.
This video really helped me
Awesome.
love your videos and glad i found them they have helped me put my top end back together. hope i didnt miss but bouts how long you soak chain.
Thanks, I'm glad my videos have helped out. If you work the chain around in a tub of oil for just a few minutes is sufficient. All your trying to so is get some oil inside the links.
Yes I have a 350 and it jumped time put in a new one and now sounds ack like no compression done every thing to it
Pretty sure the last owner of my motor did this mistake. Going to be replacing mine tomorrow. Damn glad i watched this
You saved me. I was about to loose my mind.
I'm glad to help out.
Great video!
Thank you.
I comment pass few days , about my distributor being off 180 degrees, so I did what you said in the video but no change; engine crank but no start; took it to a mechanic and conclusion was that all piston had no compression 80 to 90 , was too low , thats why my engine wont start not enough spark on piston.. so he had to overnight let it dry ( piston n spark plug) and would turn on; but will only last for 20 or so minutes until if flooded; so will try to use a can of deep creep foam or seafoam spray from oriellys and added to the pistons leave overnight and check compression; seen other videos that will add compression 10 to 15 more . will see ,
Thanks I needed this great video bro
You're welcome, I'm glad it helped
Thabk you so much
You're welcome
Excellent advice
Thanks
So if I want to removed a gear drive I assume there will be dots on those to line up at 6 and 12 and I just pull that off and replace with double roller with dots in same position and all good? Correct? And will a double roller fit behind a SWP on a SBC?
That should work
Do I have to have my heads on first when putting my timing chin don’t to dot then turn 180
Nope, you can do it before installing the heads
Very helpful
Thanks!
I guess I'm now part of that club where I'm 180° off of the distributor and that's why my engine won't start
I've been a member for 30 years.
So basically when the intake valve closes that's when I want to set crank at 12 and set the cam gear with timing chain on to 6. When I rotate to cam gear to 12 that is when I should feel air blow out the spark plug hole?
Just the opposite. When the intake valve just closes your crank will be at 12 and the cam gear mark will also be at 12. That is top dead center (TDC) of the intake stroke. Rotate the crank one more time and both valves will be closed on the TDC of the compression stroke. Crank mark should be at 12 and the cam mark should be at 6.
Question for ya? I just installed double roller chain and its tight. the thing that's weird is if i rock crank very slighty back and forth i feel a tiny bit of play. it seems like there play between lower gear and chain. Is that normal? seems like less than a 1/8 movement. thanks
Sounds about right.
Should the distributor be out of the engine while doing this or does it not matter
Don't matter
Is this a difficult job when the engine is still in the truck? I have to do it on my 87.
It's not too bad, just take your time.
Thank you so much for the info.. I was confused on that.. this helped alot. Keep the squarebody video's going
That helped so much brother thanx
Good to hear. you're welcome
for some reason i cant get it to drop the rest of the 8th of an inch when i have it set exactly like that piston at its peak camdot 6 o clock 180 turn to 12 with crank rotated and its does not drop all the way down in it
Sounds like it's not engaging the oil pump drive sll the way
The distributor?
between 13:57 and 14:00 before you cut the video the top and bottom gear was at 12 o clock,then after the cut the cam gear was at 6 o clock and the crank gear was at 12 o clock...my qustion is after you went 180 degrees AFTER you installed the timing chain did you keep roating clock wise till the dots meet at 6 oclock and 12 oclock? (doing my first rebuild)
To set the ignition timing with #1 atdc on the compression stroke (when the spark plug fires) you need both dots at 12 o clock.
@@SquarebodyStuff so do i continue rotating till they meet up AFTER i already rotated 180 degrees prior to install???
If you have both of them at 12, and install the distributor, you can put it wherever you want at that point. I usually just leave it there. No since in rotating it anymore than you have to before startup and break in.
@@SquarebodyStuff thank you so much
You're welcome. Good luck on the project.
Man that help me out a lot thanks brother ..👍
Welcome
I was wondering why my dots didn't line up when i turned it over
Exactly
How do you find TDC Intake Stroke ?
It the point of instilling the chian it will be when the dots line up close together. Cam dot will be at 6 and crank will be at 12. Now that info is good for small and big block chevy. Any thing else you have to check a manual to double check.
If the heads are on and rockers installed, it's when the exhaust valve is closing and the intake just starts to open up. ua-cam.com/video/nehh879I1CM/v-deo.html
What position is #1 piston when both dots meet each other? should it be all the way up?
With the dots lined up close to each other, the #1 will be at TDC of the intake stroke.
@@SquarebodyStuff thanks! Would the piston be at the top?
Yes, the pistons should be at the top of the stroke.
Thanks for the tip. I'm pitting an Edelbrock top end kit on my 78 Nova. Will be the first time doing it. How do we know when we are on top dead center intake stroke?
The cam sprocket locating pin will be at 3 o'clock, the dot on the cam sprocket will be at 6'oclock and the crank sprocket dot will be at 12o'clock
@@SquarebodyStuff
Thanks bud, also since my engine will be in my car, I'm assuming my transmission would have to be in neutral in order for me to turn my engine.
If it's a manual yes. If it's an automatic it won't matter.
@@SquarebodyStuff
Thanks, yup mine is automatic 78 Nova.
Just save some time- the Chevy dealership did this !
Just cut a new tab in the rotor button and turn it 1/2 turn
does the original timing cover fit or I need a new one for the duel roller timing chain, great video
Original will fit
Will assembly lube work on the timing chain to lubricate it ?
Soaking it in oil is best.
So this video verifies that my installation is incorrect on the distributor.
Tengo un V8 y con los 2 puntos juntos quien está en el punto muerto superior es el 6 es nolmar?
Con los dos puntos juntos, el pistón número 6 y número 1 estarán en el punto muerto superior. El número 1 estará en la carrera de admisión y el número 6 estará en la carrera de compresión.
@@SquarebodyStuff a ok y yo preocupado porque lo ponía los 2 puntos justos y quién estaba en la carrera de compareció. Era el 6.. bueno quiere decir q estoy bien otra cosa que hice fue montar la cadena sin lubricarla.. tendré problemas o no..?
@@juanyiste9032 Realmente necesita un poco de aceite antes de arrancar.
I am resealing up my engine and while I have the timing cover off I figured I'd throw another timing set in there. This video helps me know exactly what I am going to be looking at.
I also am going to be doing a rear main seal. I have found some good videos out there but not many. That would be a good video for you to do. Showing replacing a rear main seal with engine inside the truck. You teach and explain things well. I understand the job now from watching another guy's video but it seemed excessively long. I think you would do a good one, without the unneeded stuff .
Nope I put my cam gear dot a 12 and of course crank gear at 6. My 92 Sub runs really well!
I have a question that I know you can answer, I installed a comp cam 3200 timing chain kit, the chain has slack on both side of the sprocket which Is too much, but I don’t have the lifters lashed or preloaded yet. My question is When I valve lash the lifters and preload them will the chain get tighter or do you think I need to go with a shorter timing chain? Thanks in advance.
Lashing the lifters won't tighten the chain. You need to loo into a shorter chain.
You shouldn't have any slop at all period!! You should have just enough to barley get the gear on the cam
@@jonathanlawson4667 I changed it out for a Cloyes now it’s perfect… thank you guys for your reply and have a wonderful day✌️
@Ty Scott I've got the same issue with the comp cams timing set. I guess I gotta get another chain too...
@Ty Scott which cloyes chain you end up with? Still running the comp cams gears or you get another set of gears too? Tia
10:07
Do you want tdc on the exhaust or compression stroke?
Compression stroke if you are gonna stab the distributor.
Ok man thanks bout to do my first cam swap and wanted to make sure
You're welcome. Good luck. Take your time and have fun with it.
If u don't remove ur dist and u remove ur cam gear at 6 and your crank gear at 12. You replace it the same way u removed it.
What brand chain are you using for your engine?
If I remember correctly it was a cloyes.
I've tried to explain this on a few of my tiktok videos and I've become some kind of SBC villain. I shared the link to this video on my page, I hope thats alright and I hope it gets you some views. THANK YOU
Share away my friend. I deal with my fair share of haters also. Thanks for the support.
I just started getting on tiktok. I plan on doing more there. I appreciate the share.
I love you.
Why, thank you. 😊
Just to make sure…. You install the gears and chain dot to dot… ounce installed. You make a 180o revolution to put the dot at the 12 position before putting your distributor… right?
Turn the crankshaft 360 degrees. That will have both dots at the 12 o'clock position. That is TDC on the firing stroke on #1. This is where you stab the distributor.
What if u don't even have your heads on yet
You can install the chain before the heads go on.
Man you keep saying the same thing OVER and OVER and OVER... Otherwise could have been a... well, it's a video Thanks
Sorry, not a professional. Just trying to share what I do.
You did good bro. People like me need it said 2x to understand rather than watching again cuz I didn't understand the first time.
Thanks.
Keep up your good work bro, don’t switch up to please 1 person when everyone else loves how you do your videos …fuck him
Thanks. I don't let em get to me. They can always go on to the next video if they don't like mine.
Intro not necessary
I know. I stopped using that intro over a year ago. I started to hate it too. No need for a theatrical intro for a UA-cam channel. Now it's just a 5 second intro. I do appreciate the feedback.
Your vids are detailed 👍 you know your stuff
Thanks. I really appreciate that.
Failed to mention engine size. Big thumbs down 👎🏽👎🏽👎🏽👎🏽
It covers all small block chevys as the title says.
@@SquarebodyStuff False. It covers only whatever engine you're working on. Can you put the same timing chain from a 4.3 on a 5.7? No? Gee I wonder why that is: maybe because IT'S A DIFFERENT ENGINE
Actually, the 4.3 and 5.7 do take the same timing chain. All small block chevy engines from 262 through 400 use the same timing set. The installation process is the same for the big block chevys and several other American v6 and v8 engines.
@@SquarebodyStuff sigh...what's the point. They're not even the same length timing chains🤦🏽♂️🤦🏽♂️🤦🏽♂️ can't make this stuff up. I'd love to see you try to put a timing chain from a 4.3 on a 5.7. Make sure you record the look on your face when you realize "wait a minute... It doesn't fit"
You'd better contact Summit Racing and let them know. www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g6600r-b/make/chevrolet
If you don't understand that when you install timing gears, when the dots are lined up you're firing #6 cylinder. You should not be working on engines. Furthermore, you don't have to worry about what way your distributor is pointing. Start wires as it's on #6. I never had a motor crank for more than 1 minute before it started.
I’m grateful for your initial alignment error… the catch showed me what I needed to see. ❤
I'm glad to help out