Just would like to say. I've cut many sliding dovetails with a router and I've always wanted to try doing it with hand tools. I've watched many videos on to do it. None have inspired any confidence in me or given me good explanation on how. This video has!! It's the best video I've ever watched and the way you do it James is brilliant! You've inspired me to try it and Im actually excited and not scared to do it. Thank you so so much for this video and all the others one you make.
Using the body of the plane as a guide for the saw was brilliant!!! IDT that I would have thought of that, in a million years!!!😁 And, this video was from a year ago and I've just watched it! 🤦♂️🤣
@@WoodByWright Haha, i'm new to woodwork and the manner in which you work and present your videos really shows the beauty of the craft. Not even to mention the invaluable knowledge that you are sharing; wish i could become a patron but i am currently not able to do so.
Super Easy Technique.... even without the Dovetail plane one can easily do it by replacing the dovetail plane with a block of the same angle cut and using that as a reference for Hand Sawing... that was awesome...
In continental Europe there's a special saw for those cuts called a 'Gratsäge' in German. It's the only traditional western pullsaw, and it also works well for cutting out stopped dados (with straight or sliding dovetail walls).
Thanks for that. (You are the next generation's Paul Sellars mate :) So glad that there are people with both the craft and communication skills out there!)
Wood By Wright - Of course! I started looking for acceptable blades for it! I figure there are skewed iron shoulder planes everywhere here. might be an easy conversion.
I'm wondering how long these types of joints can run before friction becomes an issue. I have designed an open, freestanding bookshelf/room divider that I am going to build myself using only this kind of joint. I anticipate that my shelf depth is around twice as long as the dovetail in this video, which is why I ask. Full transparency, I am not even a beginner as I have never worked wood in my life but I have always wanted to work wood and I know I can do this. Thank you for such a wonderful video, it was very informative, even down to the tools I need to acquire for the project.
Me too! Thank you so much for this demo, saved me a lot of headache, I have the ECE plane so instead of using it as the fence I made a nice fence block for hand sawing. Thanks again!
Run the tail on an overlength board and cut some off both ends to planned length. This way, you cut off the starting and ending points which usually have a flaw or two. Same goes for a board to carry a rebate (rabbet). Get rid of the first and last inch or so.
Damn, now all you've done is add dove tail plane to my list....gotta have one, gotta make it. Scratch stock, groove plane, rebate plane, router plane and now dove tail....ok, what else do you think you could add? haha....love the video as usual, keep it up. Have a great day!
LOL...yeah, i've seen some of the shops with walls of molding planes....I found a set of saws on ebay and picked them up....gonna have to start getting better at sharpening them and my chisels. This is getting really fun...just need to find some more time.
@@bradknecht799 yep, don't you feel that work gets in the way of life? Instead of spending all waking hours in the shop making things and playing with planes :)
Awesome video as always. I really appreciate the details in making this joint and after you learn to make theses there is no reason to use a plan dado depending on application but it's clearly a stronger joint for case work I would think. Thanks again James.
+Thom spillane I like to put this on the top and bottom joint. Then all shelves in between with a dado. But that is just odd me. Lol rather way it is fun.
Thank you. That was a very good clear explanation. Would it nit be kinder too your dovetail plane if another block were planed at the same angle in order to guide the saw? in the event that anyone tries to do this with a traditional dovetail or tenon saw the set on the teeth will damage the plane sole. I am presuming that the saw which you used for this video had no set to the teeth.
thanks Jack. no, this saw has normal set on it. they only nick the tip of the plane, and that tip will get worn off with normal use. so the teeth of the saw never touch the plane.
Wow! That was fantastic! I had never heard of a dovetail plane, and I can't think of a tool better suited to cleaning out the tails than the router plane. I got a spear chisel with mine that I can see would be great for reaching those tiny edges (I loved your use of the marking knife). I'm surprised at what a nice crisp joint you achieved; I would've thought that a very fine grained hardwood would have been necessary. I wonder how much stress that the joint will take? Great job, again! I would be interested in seeing some scarfing joints on your channel.
+James Steed thanks. I have made this In oak, walnut, butternut, poplar. And you can get crisp coreners of them all fairly easly. I might have to do a video on scarf joints.
+Arthur Linker I have done this up to twice the width of the plane and just setting it in the middle of it. But you can also put a longer board on the plane and extend it.
Thank you for the video. I'm not sure if anyone has asked, what type of saw did you use to cut the slot or the piece receiving the dovetail when you made the 24" cabinets? I'd imagine you'd do one side 12" then flip the piece and do the remaining 12"? Or did you use a Japanese style flush cut saw? Thanks again for sharing.
I use a regular carcass saw just a western style. I have cut 60" long slides with it. I do not think most Japanese saws would work for it as the handle would hit the guide.
I’ve decided this is a joint I want to use on a particular piece of furniture im currently working on. It would be structurally perfect for the application, but there is an issue. The sliding dovetails I’d need to cut are 42” long. How would you go about cutting the dovetail dados 42” long with the grain? Or is that just a crazy idea? I’m not short on ambition with hand tool woodwork, just experience haha.
I think I’ll try a couple practice cuts and try to make it work before I do it on the furniture piece. If it’s going downhill I’ll send you an email. By this point I have too much work into it to destroy it trying a joint I’ve never done. Thanks!
hey! awesome video. Why did the dove tail plane sound like it wasn't cutting nicely? It sounded like it was tearing or was the blade wasn't as sharp as i know your planes usually are
Question: If you had a block of wood, just like the dovetail plane body, with no slots or holes. (just the shape of the plane body) Could you just use a shoulder plane to make the tails of the dovetail and then use that same block of wood to make the slot (like you did)? I have a nice shoulder plane and a rabbet block plane. Or, do you need a special dovetail plane to make the tails? That one I do not have.
Yeah, I thought about it after I commented. It would not provide the correct angle. I will have to stick to the saw and chisel method. I did not see any good buys on ebay for a dovetail plane.
It's pretty unusual to cut the sliding dovetail on the long grain. What's your use-case? Typically the dovetail portion will be cut on the end grain of a board. That makes a stronger dovetail since the entire dovetail can't split off. You also won't have a cross-grain scenario to worry about.
yup. but it depends on its use. with the grain is weaker in shear but stronger in tension. I have done both. but oddly enough I do it with the grain more as I did that in the dresser shelves and in the drawer slides for the coffee table.
thank you so much really clear and informative video!! i have a question regarding its strength. would you recommend using this technique on furniture?
ou yes. it is most commonly found holding drawer dividers to the sides of the case on a chest of drawers. or holding shelves to the side of the book case. it is an incedably strong joint.
How practical would this joint be for a cabinet? I'm assuming the tolerances would be pretty tight and driving the shelf into both sides might be tricky, ensuring the board goes straight into both cuts at the same time. Is it challenging (too challenging) or is this better suited to situations like you're demonstrating, where the shelf is only connected to one board?
the most common use for it is in a cabinet where it is connected to both sides. or often in drawer dividers where it slides in top and bottom. it is not difficult to do at all. it is very rare that it is only connected to one end of the board.
I have put sliding dovetails on the long grain far more than I have on the end grain. Most of the time I use them for attaching stretchers to a top or in other cross grain applications where there's expansion and contraction.
I notice your Apple Watch good job. I'm a subscriber to your channel and this was the first time I notice the Apple Watch . I tend to pick up on things like being a personal trainer and therapist.
Close. It is a Fitbit. I have almost upgraded to a garmon several times for my running but for some reason, I have stuck with the Fitbit. I think I might have to get one as a celebration for my first 100-mile race. we will see.
Wood By Wright it is awesome , you're multi talented ,that is great . You mentioned the running but what are you doing for strength because you look strong.
LOL isn't hand tool wood working good enough for that? I do lift 3-4 times a week. I use to be heavy into lifting and got up to 200lb at 7%BF but now I am about 210 at 15% but I am wanting to change to around 175 at 7% as I am focusing more and more on the running.
Hard time finding an angled plane like that. Really would like to have one. I've searched for dovetail plane and bevel plane. Any suggestions? I'm thinking alter a mounding plane.
well, amazon has one here. amzn.to/2opa6KX on ebay no one knows what they have and want way too much for it. but for older ones you often find them piled with the molding planes. but you can make one out of a block of scrap and an old chisel. I am hoping to do a video on that soon.
Robert yes and my neighbor is a mechanic.. he said he got threw out of woodshop in high school when a tool flew across the room. he is a heck of a mechanic. I asked him to sharpen my cheap chisels. He sharpened them on a grinding wheel not for amateurs and tempered them in oil. seeing this video makes me want to make one.. I would assume that they work best in soft woods like pine and on larger ones it helps to supplement the groove with sawing.. looking at it.. looks like a 30 degree slope. just guessing.
Wood By Wright So if I understand you correctly, you run your shelves with the longitudinal axis (long grain) running front to back in the case the same way you dovetailed the shelf component in the video? I've never even considered that. For decades I've use the more.common orientation of running my shelves with the longitudinal grain running between the case sides to hide the end grain in the dados which allows the shelves to expand toward the rear of the case. I get that you could hide end grain on the front of the shelf with edging material, but unless you only build with this technique in summertime, I'd be intrigued to know how you compensate for the expansion of the shelf so the case sides don't bow out using the orientation you demonstrated. Please let me know tour secret. Tongue and groove shelves?
LOL no for drawer and shelf support the dovetail is on the end grain, but that is the smaller portion of use for it in my work. I also use a sliding dovetail for drawer slides, underhung drawer mounts, attaching a stretcher to a table top, and several other applications. it is a very versatile joint. and in the case of attaching a table top, it is fantastic at compensating for expansion and contraction.
yup. Just using a saw to cut to the line. but to be honest I would probably build a new plane as you can make one out of an old chisel in an hour or two. I am hoping to do a video on that soon.
It seems you could use the dovetail plane as a mother plane to transfer its angle to another block of wood. They would be an exact match. If you use that block of wood to guide your saw, you'll save a lot of wear on the dovetail plane. To do what I'm saying, true up some stock and bring it to equal thickness as the dovetail plane. Clamp a block of wood to the non-escapement side of the dovetail plane to serve as a fence. Run the fence along the reference face of the block you prepared, planing into reference edge. You should get an exact transfer of the angle, no?
Paul Sellars has a 30 min video and makes a rebate plan in that time. Its just like this one but for the bevel. I'd just set up my router and make both tenon and rabbit of the dove tail in about five minutes... But I don't do this kind of thing often. But once set up, I could make long (or deep) drawers in about five minutes, too. Best thing about the router is it makes repeatable and identical cuts. No worries about transferring the lines every time. Just set your line marks and go!
Okay, but what about all the folks out here who don't have access to a dovetail plain or router plane? I mean, nice joint, but those who have the former likely know how to use it, an the good ole 71 isn't exactly easy to find and Veritas wants almost $300 for their version, not on my budget.
+Thomas Russell you can make both out of old chisels and scrap wood. I have done a couple videos on making router planes. And I will do one soon on a dovetail plane. Also if you keep your eyes open you can go d a dovetail plane at antique stores and estate sales for 10-$30. You can get a full antique router plane for $60 or one that needs a bit of restoration for $30
Wood By Wright thanks, but hard to find old tools in my area that are in restorable condition. I went to our local flea market and looked through about 40 draw knives that were so bad that by te time you sharpened a straight blade the beam would only be about 1/4 to 3/8 inch wide on the best of them. Most were pitted or cracked so bad that they were good for nothing other than a wall decoration. I have been able to find a Stanley handyman #5 and will be restoring it this week, and a #6 sized wood body that may not be servicable. Every other unit I fond is missing the blade or adjustment screws, cracked base, twisted sole, empty of all parts and they still want $30.00 or better for an incomplete or severly damaged unit. I have been checking every oeddler's mall and antique shop I can find. Most antique shops aeoind here I would just have to throw an extra $20-$30 to buy a new Veritas unit. That is not in my budget at all. The used tools I have found have taken all I can spare. I can't even afford wood right now. But thanks for the heads-up.
James, I absolutely love your videos and watch every one. I've seen this before but come back to watch it again. But mate, that intro was definitely a bit creepy...! JK 😉
Then you chisel it out. I have a few videos on that. But a dovetail plane is fairly easy to make I have a series of live videos showing the whole thing step by step.
Mystery solved. I was thinking about using a chisel against an angled fence but I didn't like that idea all that well. Too much room for sloppiness and a bit tedious.
Also, as a side note, this Christmas, I was making a shadow box for my little sister and needed a grooving plane to make a groove for the glass. I was also making a knife for my brother, so I used a bit of the same spring metal and I made an iron about 1/64th wider than the glass, whipped up a body for the plane out of some scrap walnut, clamped on a fence and it cut beautiful, clean grooves. I am sure making a dovetail plane would be just as easy.
I"m a little disappointed. I thought it was going to be a tapered sliding dove tail. That's my bad though. This is the same technique shown in the coffee table build. It's a clever method matching the angle of the dovetail. Please do a tapered sliding dove tail.
+DarthDweeb it is on the list. I just had a lot of people asking to do a more detailed video in it after the coffee table. But a tapered version would be very simple with this methoud.
I have several other versions with out the dovetail plane. this is just the video showing how I do it. That being said it is a fairly easy plane to make. I have videos on that too.
You are cheating, my friend. The male component of a sliding dovetail runs across the grain, not a along the grain. This makes a huge difference in the level of difficulty.
It all depends on the application sometimes they run into groove and sometimes they run in a dado. Just as sometimes the dovetail will go across the grain and sometimes it goes with the grain. I have videos showing both ways if you'd like to see that too.
Just would like to say. I've cut many sliding dovetails with a router and I've always wanted to try doing it with hand tools. I've watched many videos on to do it. None have inspired any confidence in me or given me good explanation on how. This video has!! It's the best video I've ever watched and the way you do it James is brilliant! You've inspired me to try it and Im actually excited and not scared to do it. Thank you so so much for this video and all the others one you make.
That is about the best complement I could get. Thanks man!
Using the body of the plane as a guide for the saw was brilliant!!! IDT that I would have thought of that, in a million years!!!😁
And, this video was from a year ago and I've just watched it! 🤦♂️🤣
We are so privileged to watch you work. Thank you James
I think you are currently my favorite fan. Thanks Will
@@WoodByWright Haha, i'm new to woodwork and the manner in which you work and present your videos really shows the beauty of the craft. Not even to mention the invaluable knowledge that you are sharing; wish i could become a patron but i am currently not able to do so.
Super Easy Technique.... even without the Dovetail plane one can easily do it by replacing the dovetail plane with a block of the same angle cut and using that as a reference for Hand Sawing... that was awesome...
Right on. thanks!
Beautiful!! Thank you.
That’s awesome. Such sharp lines. That’s a video to like and save for future use.
thanks Tim! that means a lot!
that intro tho
you combine beautiful woodworking with funny commentary
underrated channel
+Soam Surnane thanks Soam that means a lot.
Probably because of his fibrating voice
In continental Europe there's a special saw for those cuts called a 'Gratsäge' in German. It's the only traditional western pullsaw, and it also works well for cutting out stopped dados (with straight or sliding dovetail walls).
Very nice, and a very good instructor. Cheers and thank you for sharing.
James, that is really cool....and just with hand tools. Bravo...rr
+Richard Rider thanks Richard. It is easier then it looks.
Thanks for sharing, I had no idea how to cut that joint without a router.
it is a fun one for sure.
Nice demo. It reminded me of when I saw Frank Klaus demo a tapered sliding dovetail in under 2 minutes using only a back saw, chisel and pencil.
+P Lemieux yup same idea, but that guy is a machine
I really appreciate your instruction. I have a slight learning curve, you've made it so easy for people like myself to understand. thank you.
+Ric Marsh thanks. It really is simple if you break it down I to its steps.
Thank you for your VDO that sharing wood work knowledge and mbeautifull vintage carpenter's hand tools to me.
My pleasure. thanks for watching!
looks so easy when you do it like that,im itching to have a go
Thanks.
Thank you. Really great teaching on your channel
+Rob Robertson thanks Rob I am wanting to do more like this in the future.
Thanks for that. (You are the next generation's Paul Sellars mate :) So glad that there are people with both the craft and communication skills out there!)
Wow the old dovetail plane!❤️ I thought it’d be harder
Hi, I liked the video and technique, what called my atention is the tail on the edge rather on the end grain. Thank you & regards. Gerardo
Thanks Gerardo.
I always wondered how to do this with hand tools. Great video.
+MaghoxFr there a lot of different ways. This is just my favorite.
Nice lesson James, thanks for sharing.
my pleasure bill!
Good video. Can't wait to try it.
+Frank Olinde thanks Frank.
Great video!
+I Builded That thanks man.
That is super cool! I never thought of doing it that way, with hand tools too!
+BurlyWoodWorks thanks. It is just a bit more fun for me then other ways I have tried.
... but a sliding dovetail. 🤘😁 Fantastic work James!
LOL thanks Heath!
Clever man you are! I love learning from you!!!
+Kathleen Zimmerman thanks Kathleen
Sweet tutorial
thanks!
That is really cool!
+Laurence Lance thanks. It is my favorite way.
I can see why. I never knew about those planes. Now I've GOT to have one!
Thanks for sharing this. I plan on adapting your technique to make a sliding box top.
+leif52pickup that is a great idea. I would love to see it.
I love this joint! Thanks so much for that
Thanks Chris. they are a lot of fun to play with!
time to go look for that plane at the antique stores! awesome james!
+Clean Phil Wanted or make one. They are fairly easy.
Wood By Wright - Of course! I started looking for acceptable blades for it! I figure there are skewed iron shoulder planes everywhere here. might be an easy conversion.
thanks, perfect, just what I needed!
Great video I would love to see you make that dovetail plane
+John Valentim it is on my list. But we will see.
I'm wondering how long these types of joints can run before friction becomes an issue. I have designed an open, freestanding bookshelf/room divider that I am going to build myself using only this kind of joint. I anticipate that my shelf depth is around twice as long as the dovetail in this video, which is why I ask. Full transparency, I am not even a beginner as I have never worked wood in my life but I have always wanted to work wood and I know I can do this. Thank you for such a wonderful video, it was very informative, even down to the tools I need to acquire for the project.
They can get really long. I have done a few over 4' long to connect a table top.
@@WoodByWright That's great to hear and thanks for the quick reply.
Well done! Today I have learnt a new technique
Thanks for sharing :)
+Mikhandmaker that sounds like a good day to me.
Me too! Thank you so much for this demo, saved me a lot of headache, I have the ECE plane so instead of using it as the fence I made a nice fence block for hand sawing. Thanks again!
You do a great job explaining the process. Looking forward to the dove tail plane build video.
+Woodified thanks. That should be a fun one.
Hi there from Portugal,
Nice dovetail :D
Obrigado(thanks)
+Blog das Madeiras thanks man.
Nicely done.
-Andrew
+An American Artisan thanks Andrew.
Good video! This helpful!
Thanks. My pleasure
thank you good info
+Walter Rider thanks. My pleasure.
Great video.I would like to see a video of you making this plane.
+kevin kelly thanks. That video is on my list
Run the tail on an overlength board and cut some off both ends to planned length. This way, you cut off the starting and ending points which usually have a flaw or two. Same goes for a board to carry a rebate (rabbet). Get rid of the first and last inch or so.
Excellent tutorial James!
thanks man!
Nice video!
+Willem Kossen thanks Willem.
I think I would like to make a depth stop to clamp the work to, there.
Came out good. Dovetail looks shallower than a 1:6 on screen, just right for pine
+Mitch Peacock - WOmadeOD thanks. And corect!
You made it look easy. Thanks for the explanation.
thanks Bruce! It is easy. Just don't expect perfection on the first one.
Damn, now all you've done is add dove tail plane to my list....gotta have one, gotta make it. Scratch stock, groove plane, rebate plane, router plane and now dove tail....ok, what else do you think you could add? haha....love the video as usual, keep it up. Have a great day!
+Brad Knecht lol. Just wait tell I get into all the molding planes!
LOL...yeah, i've seen some of the shops with walls of molding planes....I found a set of saws on ebay and picked them up....gonna have to start getting better at sharpening them and my chisels. This is getting really fun...just need to find some more time.
Time that is always the problem!
@@bradknecht799 yep, don't you feel that work gets in the way of life? Instead of spending all waking hours in the shop making things and playing with planes :)
Would you have any tips on doing this with just a saw and chisel? Love your channel, thanks for the service you provide to the hand tool community!
Yes. I have a video on the second channel showing how to do sliding dovetails and I do it with just a saw and chisel.
Awesome video as always. I really appreciate the details in making this joint and after you learn to make theses there is no reason to use a plan dado depending on application but it's clearly a stronger joint for case work I would think. Thanks again James.
+Thom spillane I like to put this on the top and bottom joint. Then all shelves in between with a dado. But that is just odd me. Lol rather way it is fun.
Lol but that makes a lot of sense. Take care.
across't - lol in every video
btw these videos are great, learning a lot
thanks Spencer. it is the best way to say the word. not sure why they dropped the T in the 1800s.
Thank you. That was a very good clear explanation. Would it nit be kinder too your dovetail plane if another block were planed at the same angle in order to guide the saw? in the event that anyone tries to do this with a traditional dovetail or tenon saw the set on the teeth will damage the plane sole. I am presuming that the saw which you used for this video had no set to the teeth.
thanks Jack. no, this saw has normal set on it. they only nick the tip of the plane, and that tip will get worn off with normal use. so the teeth of the saw never touch the plane.
great job!
+Cajón de Sastre thanks!
Yes i did like it, easy enough that even i mite tackle...
+Robert Evans lol. I like simple.
great job James you almost made it look too easy lol.
+Opa's Workshop lol I try not to do that.
Is that a Roubo style smart-watch? So authentic. Love your work.
+Tim Elmore lol no this is a Moxon design.
Nice, now let's see a tapered sliding dovetail!
+Jacob Morrill that is on the list. It is much the same as this. Just a slight change I. Techneque.
Wow! That was fantastic! I had never heard of a dovetail plane, and I can't think of a tool better suited to cleaning out the tails than the router plane. I got a spear chisel with mine that I can see would be great for reaching those tiny edges (I loved your use of the marking knife). I'm surprised at what a nice crisp joint you achieved; I would've thought that a very fine grained hardwood would have been necessary. I wonder how much stress that the joint will take? Great job, again! I would be interested in seeing some scarfing joints on your channel.
+James Steed thanks. I have made this In oak, walnut, butternut, poplar. And you can get crisp coreners of them all fairly easly. I might have to do a video on scarf joints.
Nice. I'll be trying this for my next project. Think you might take a crack at a tapered sliding dovetail?
+Adam Abou-Youssef I have thought about it. It would not be that difficult with this methoud.
That was absolutely amazing to watch. Thank you so much for the clear and concise instruction - as always!!
Thanks Frank. That means a lot!
Great video. But what if the board is wider than the length of the plane? Wouldn't it be difficult to guide the saw?
+Arthur Linker I have done this up to twice the width of the plane and just setting it in the middle of it. But you can also put a longer board on the plane and extend it.
I got the saw and LV router plane...any alternative way without the angle wood plane?
Yes. I have several other videos showing how to do it without the plane. In that case you just use a saw to cut the angles.
Thank you for the video. I'm not sure if anyone has asked, what type of saw did you use to cut the slot or the piece receiving the dovetail when you made the 24" cabinets? I'd imagine you'd do one side 12" then flip the piece and do the remaining 12"? Or did you use a Japanese style flush cut saw? Thanks again for sharing.
I use a regular carcass saw just a western style. I have cut 60" long slides with it. I do not think most Japanese saws would work for it as the handle would hit the guide.
I’ve decided this is a joint I want to use on a particular piece of furniture im currently working on. It would be structurally perfect for the application, but there is an issue. The sliding dovetails I’d need to cut are 42” long. How would you go about cutting the dovetail dados 42” long with the grain? Or is that just a crazy idea? I’m not short on ambition with hand tool woodwork, just experience haha.
I would do it the same way just working the saw along the sides of the groove, then come back and clean it up with a chisel.
Feel free to send me an email if you want to send pictures and talk it through
I think I’ll try a couple practice cuts and try to make it work before I do it on the furniture piece. If it’s going downhill I’ll send you an email. By this point I have too much work into it to destroy it trying a joint I’ve never done. Thanks!
I'm gonna have to make an angled plane to make the cuts with. I'm struggling to find one in my price range. :D
Great job mate!
+Denny Bennett they are fairly easy to make.
please show us
hey! awesome video. Why did the dove tail plane sound like it wasn't cutting nicely? It sounded like it was tearing or was the blade wasn't as sharp as i know your planes usually are
+Jason Roets I showed it on the side where it was cutting agenst the grain.
interesting!!!
+JimMyra Wright very! And fun!
You da man......
+Dasaster 79 thanks.
Question: If you had a block of wood, just like the dovetail plane body, with no slots or holes. (just the shape of the plane body) Could you just use a shoulder plane to make the tails of the dovetail and then use that same block of wood to make the slot (like you did)? I have a nice shoulder plane and a rabbet block plane. Or, do you need a special dovetail plane to make the tails? That one I do not have.
Fun thought but the side of the shoulder plane is at 90 degrees so the shoulder of the dove tail would not be flat.
Yeah, I thought about it after I commented. It would not provide the correct angle. I will have to stick to the saw and chisel method. I did not see any good buys on ebay for a dovetail plane.
nice joint. what is the angle of handplane ?
+Daniel Szekely no idea. I think it is close to 4-1.
It's pretty unusual to cut the sliding dovetail on the long grain. What's your use-case? Typically the dovetail portion will be cut on the end grain of a board. That makes a stronger dovetail since the entire dovetail can't split off. You also won't have a cross-grain scenario to worry about.
yup. but it depends on its use. with the grain is weaker in shear but stronger in tension. I have done both. but oddly enough I do it with the grain more as I did that in the dresser shelves and in the drawer slides for the coffee table.
thank you so much really clear and informative video!! i have a question regarding its strength.
would you recommend using this technique on furniture?
ou yes. it is most commonly found holding drawer dividers to the sides of the case on a chest of drawers. or holding shelves to the side of the book case. it is an incedably strong joint.
@@WoodByWright thank you so much!! I'm using it to attach the legs for my bench!!
@@connaughgrace4038 oh ya in a dovetail tenon! that is a crazy strong joint!
How practical would this joint be for a cabinet? I'm assuming the tolerances would be pretty tight and driving the shelf into both sides might be tricky, ensuring the board goes straight into both cuts at the same time. Is it challenging (too challenging) or is this better suited to situations like you're demonstrating, where the shelf is only connected to one board?
the most common use for it is in a cabinet where it is connected to both sides. or often in drawer dividers where it slides in top and bottom. it is not difficult to do at all. it is very rare that it is only connected to one end of the board.
cool, thanks!
I grew up with those being called French Dovetails, when I mentioned that on a woodworking group I was mercilessly ridiculed.
LOL I wonder where that came from.
I gotta get me one of those planes.....Oh, you're a bad influence....lol.
Great video, but you should have made the dovetails on the end grain end of the board, as this is the normal layout for shelving boards.
I have put sliding dovetails on the long grain far more than I have on the end grain. Most of the time I use them for attaching stretchers to a top or in other cross grain applications where there's expansion and contraction.
I notice your Apple Watch good job. I'm a subscriber to your channel and this was the first time I notice the Apple Watch . I tend to pick up on things like being a personal trainer and therapist.
Close. It is a Fitbit. I have almost upgraded to a garmon several times for my running but for some reason, I have stuck with the Fitbit. I think I might have to get one as a celebration for my first 100-mile race. we will see.
Wood By Wright it is awesome , you're multi talented ,that is great . You mentioned the running but what are you doing for strength because you look strong.
LOL isn't hand tool wood working good enough for that? I do lift 3-4 times a week. I use to be heavy into lifting and got up to 200lb at 7%BF but now I am about 210 at 15% but I am wanting to change to around 175 at 7% as I am focusing more and more on the running.
Hard time finding an angled plane like that. Really would like to have one. I've searched for dovetail plane and bevel plane. Any suggestions? I'm thinking alter a mounding plane.
well, amazon has one here. amzn.to/2opa6KX on ebay no one knows what they have and want way too much for it. but for older ones you often find them piled with the molding planes. but you can make one out of a block of scrap and an old chisel. I am hoping to do a video on that soon.
Ouch! I'll wait for your video Thx.
Robert yes and my neighbor is a mechanic.. he said he got threw out of woodshop in high school when a tool flew across the room. he is a heck of a mechanic. I asked him to sharpen my cheap chisels. He sharpened them on a grinding wheel not for amateurs and tempered them in oil. seeing this video makes me want to make one.. I would assume that they work best in soft woods like pine and on larger ones it helps to supplement the groove with sawing.. looking at it.. looks like a 30 degree slope. just guessing.
Very late😅 but Ece and Ulmia still make them
In an actual application the dovetail would be on the endgrain rather than the long grain. How does this effect the process and the fit?
interesting. I have used it more in the long grain orientation more than the end grain. but in either orientation, the operation is the same.
Wood By Wright So if I understand you correctly, you run your shelves with the longitudinal axis (long grain) running front to back in the case the same way you dovetailed the shelf component in the video? I've never even considered that. For decades I've use the more.common orientation of running my shelves with the longitudinal grain running between the case sides to hide the end grain in the dados which allows the shelves to expand toward the rear of the case. I get that you could hide end grain on the front of the shelf with edging material, but unless you only build with this technique in summertime, I'd be intrigued to know how you compensate for the expansion of the shelf so the case sides don't bow out using the orientation you demonstrated. Please let me know tour secret. Tongue and groove shelves?
LOL no for drawer and shelf support the dovetail is on the end grain, but that is the smaller portion of use for it in my work. I also use a sliding dovetail for drawer slides, underhung drawer mounts, attaching a stretcher to a table top, and several other applications. it is a very versatile joint. and in the case of attaching a table top, it is fantastic at compensating for expansion and contraction.
I’m guessing it would be really difficult but could the tail be done with just a chisel?
dure. it would not be that difficult it would just take time.
Wait- you put the fence on the scribe line, but the you moved it over; are you on the line or not? explain the concept?
+Seth Warner the saw needs to be on the line. So you have to move it back the thickness of the saw blade.
Ah!!!
Great video.
(But it's the 'pin' you cut in that first piece, not the 'tail').
+William Brown lol depends on how you look at it.
How would you do this if I hid your plane? haha Knife wall and chisel?
I have little chance of acquiring a plane like that, guess I could make one.
yup. Just using a saw to cut to the line. but to be honest I would probably build a new plane as you can make one out of an old chisel in an hour or two. I am hoping to do a video on that soon.
Are you going to make a dove tail plane like you were thinking?
I did a series recently doing just that.
@@WoodByWright I must have missed that. Where would it be? I saw the tongue and groove planes and the shoulder plane. I'll have to look again. Thanks.
Nice view. Next time I would like to see the action a bit more closely - camera was a bit far ;) Otherwise very informative and good video!
LOL thanks. I really do need to get a lens that will do closer work better, but so many things to spend money on right now.
It seems you could use the dovetail plane as a mother plane to transfer its angle to another block of wood. They would be an exact match. If you use that block of wood to guide your saw, you'll save a lot of wear on the dovetail plane. To do what I'm saying, true up some stock and bring it to equal thickness as the dovetail plane. Clamp a block of wood to the non-escapement side of the dovetail plane to serve as a fence. Run the fence along the reference face of the block you prepared, planing into reference edge. You should get an exact transfer of the angle, no?
True you could. There are more than two ways to skin a cat lol
Oh dear, typos. Would it not be kinder to your dovetail plane if another block were planed at the same angle in order to guide the saw?
LOL no problem. I make far more of those. I have gotten use to reading them.
Paul Sellars has a 30 min video and makes a rebate plan in that time. Its just like this one but for the bevel. I'd just set up my router and make both tenon and rabbit of the dove tail in about five minutes... But I don't do this kind of thing often. But once set up, I could make long (or deep) drawers in about five minutes, too. Best thing about the router is it makes repeatable and identical cuts. No worries about transferring the lines every time. Just set your line marks and go!
Right on a power router is great for repeatable cuts.
Comment down belwo.
Comment down below
But what if you don't have the angled plane thing
Then you can just chisel it out. I have a few videos showing that method as well.
Okay, but what about all the folks out here who don't have access to a dovetail plain or router plane? I mean, nice joint, but those who have the former likely know how to use it, an the good ole 71 isn't exactly easy to find and Veritas wants almost $300 for their version, not on my budget.
+Thomas Russell you can make both out of old chisels and scrap wood. I have done a couple videos on making router planes. And I will do one soon on a dovetail plane. Also if you keep your eyes open you can go d a dovetail plane at antique stores and estate sales for 10-$30. You can get a full antique router plane for $60 or one that needs a bit of restoration for $30
Wood By Wright thanks, but hard to find old tools in my area that are in restorable condition. I went to our local flea market and looked through about 40 draw knives that were so bad that by te time you sharpened a straight blade the beam would only be about 1/4 to 3/8 inch wide on the best of them. Most were pitted or cracked so bad that they were good for nothing other than a wall decoration. I have been able to find a Stanley handyman #5 and will be restoring it this week, and a #6 sized wood body that may not be servicable. Every other unit I fond is missing the blade or adjustment screws, cracked base, twisted sole, empty of all parts and they still want $30.00 or better for an incomplete or severly damaged unit. I have been checking every oeddler's mall and antique shop I can find. Most antique shops aeoind here I would just have to throw an extra $20-$30 to buy a new Veritas unit. That is not in my budget at all. The used tools I have found have taken all I can spare. I can't even afford wood right now. But thanks for the heads-up.
This vid was in my feed 10 minutes after thinking to myself "I wonder if he has a sliding dt vid".....
Lol I aim to please!
James, I absolutely love your videos and watch every one. I've seen this before but come back to watch it again. But mate, that intro was definitely a bit creepy...! JK 😉
Thanks. you know it is one of my videos right off the bat!
It's "not that difficult" but what if you don't have a dovetail plane?
Then you chisel it out. I have a few videos on that. But a dovetail plane is fairly easy to make I have a series of live videos showing the whole thing step by step.
@Wood By Wright I may just build one since I am a fan of moulding planes anyway and my small collection needs more.
I hope you enjoy this comment.
+Brian Prusa you know I do. You always have the best.
Mystery solved. I was thinking about using a chisel against an angled fence but I didn't like that idea all that well. Too much room for sloppiness and a bit tedious.
Also, as a side note, this Christmas, I was making a shadow box for my little sister and needed a grooving plane to make a groove for the glass. I was also making a knife for my brother, so I used a bit of the same spring metal and I made an iron about 1/64th wider than the glass, whipped up a body for the plane out of some scrap walnut, clamped on a fence and it cut beautiful, clean grooves. I am sure making a dovetail plane would be just as easy.
+Brian C right on. I am going to have to do a video on just how easy it is to make one.
I wish I still lived in California. I'd offer to come help you out with that, but I recently moved to Arizona
+Brian C that would be fun!
Ho about a video without the use of a rare sliding Dovetail plane?
I have a couple of those. and I have a video on making the dovetail plane yourself in a few hours.
I"m a little disappointed. I thought it was going to be a tapered sliding dove tail. That's my bad though. This is the same technique shown in the coffee table build. It's a clever method matching the angle of the dovetail. Please do a tapered sliding dove tail.
+DarthDweeb it is on the list. I just had a lot of people asking to do a more detailed video in it after the coffee table. But a tapered version would be very simple with this methoud.
We dont have a Dovetail plane, so why watch.
I have several other versions with out the dovetail plane. this is just the video showing how I do it. That being said it is a fairly easy plane to make. I have videos on that too.
You are cheating, my friend. The male component of a sliding dovetail runs across the grain, not a along the grain. This makes a huge difference in the level of difficulty.
It all depends on the application sometimes they run into groove and sometimes they run in a dado. Just as sometimes the dovetail will go across the grain and sometimes it goes with the grain. I have videos showing both ways if you'd like to see that too.