Bookmarked! After a gallon of coffee and 48 straight hours of perusing broken Hackaday links and countless data sheets, this is exactly what I needed. You cornered the market on this information. Thank. You.
im using a CD4017 as the 1 to 4 counter to indicate current input with leds and have to figure out the 2 bit counter for the cd4052 A/B selectors (i dont have any D flip flip). Everything is getting along for this project thanks to you!
Great video, exactly what I was looking for my own DIY Wah bypass switch!👍 I know about the 4053 that might be a newer version? But thinking of only doing a bypass I guess a 4966 would be more likely the way to go?
The CD4053 is not newer, it's a 3-throw version of the CD4051. The CD4052 shown here is the 2-throw version. The CD4066 is basically just four separate single-pole single-throw switches. For your pedal, likely any of these would work, but I know some pedal designs need multiple poles for the switch. In that case the CD4052 or CD4053 would be needed. Do put some zeners or some kind of protection on the input and output of the circuit though, these CMOS switches are not immune to static.
The ground for the switch circuit needs to be tied to the same ground as the audio source. Where do you to that, at the wall outlet, or a dedicated ground connection?
The audio ground (sleeve of phone jack or outer conductor of RCA jack) should be tied to Vss (pin 8) on the CD4052 switch chip. You want the audio reference to be between both power supplies so the voltage can swing up and down equally.
is there a single and dual channel version of this (for smaller layouts space available) and can it avoid click and pops in the audio when the switch occurs?
anyone have any troubles with pop/clicks when switching between audio sources? I'm using a different IC but it is also an analog spdt meant for audio switching applications, but i get pops when switching.
Thank you, Brilliant, and explained very clearly!! question please, if one source was mono, lets presume source 1, then my thought would be to simply Y split the mono on to both channels at pin 1 and 12, Would you envisage any problem with that idea? Like would the chip still be happy with 1 and 12 bridged.
It will still work, but it won't be able to process signals that go below -0.5V. The purpose of split supplies is to allow the signal to swing above and below 0V and not some middle voltage above ground. You can have a DC offset and use capacitors to isolate it like in my CD4066 video. This chip has an extra pin specifically for this purpose to save you the trouble of creating a makeshift split supply and needing to add capacitors. It really depends on what you are using it for. If you are using it to process signals that never go below ground then you don't need a negative supply. If you are processing audio, you do. The split supply can also be used to power the subsequent op-amp you might need later on to process the signal with.
You can run it off 5V but you would need to do the voltage divider thing and tie the 2.5V part of the divider to the ground pin of the chip (pin 8). Then the 5V would go to Vcc (pin 16) and the 0V would go to Vee (pin 7). Then you'll need caps on the input and output to isolate the DC as in the last video. The problem is after all of that you might not have enough headroom for the signal depending on what you are trying to do. A better solution would be to get one of those small switchers that take 5V and turn it into +/-9V. Then you could also power any op-amps you might want to add to the circuit.
@@thetuberoaster8321 I got this working. I have a video of my circuit. I don't know if youtube will let me share it. Thanks so much for the information
Hello, I am using arduino for A and B status - 0/1 . channel 0 works fine, but any other - crap on the oscilloscope! I grounded all unused pins - also used 9V /0V/-9V power supply. I am feeling stuck. It looks like "binary" switches does not affect CD4052 :(
What might be happening is the 5V output from the Arduino is not high enough to reliably hold a high state in the CD4052. If you bring the control pins to +9V/0V manually with a wire you'll probably see it work. To get the Arduino to switch between 0V and 9V instead of 5V, you'll need to use a transistor to drive the CD4052. Anytime you work with 4000 series chips bear in mind that logic levels can often exceed 5V. The circuit you drive it with must have the same logic level or you will have problems.
Hello, I want to use this chip with a positive 12 volts only in my car. Is it okay to use if I just connect VEE and GND on the Chip together and with a voltage divider on each input?
Hello, we’re you able to do this? I’m trying to switch my inputs to a car stereo between a Bluetooth module and the Tuner by tapping one of the preselect micro switches on the faceplate. Seems like this circuit is the best for this just need to get it to 12V input Thanks
Yes, but you will need to isolate the inputs with coupling capacitors. The exact value will depend on the input impedance of the device after this switch. There's a chance that this circuit could introduce noise into the audio if the power supply is noisy. Usually, mics that have phantom power have a small gain stage already inside them to boost the signal which helps with noise. I think that it will not be as much of an issue as it would be for dynamic mics. Of course, you will need a separate 48V supply with resistors to each channel to they don't all short together but still get phantom power.
Can this be used with 600 ohms balanced line level? I have 2 stereo mixing positions with 2 monitors feeds going to stereo house and 2 monitors channel amplifiers. Thank you.
You need a decoder circuit to turn the binary coded decimal logic back into normal counting numbers again, unless you want your LEDs counting in binary. For two inputs this is easy, all you need is an inverter. For four inputs, you need a 2 to 4 decoder chip like the SN74LVC1G139 which will give an output for each LED. The outputs are active low (inverted logic) so you will need to switch the low side of the LEDs to make one light up for each input selection.
@the tube roaster - can you plz help how to select stereo and dvd which has 6 channels like front, left, surround left, surround right and centre. I can using relay but it would be. Much expensive, need 5 relays so thought once I select dvd, output should give 6 channel instead of stereo output(right, left)
You can use two CD4053s together to get six channels that can switch between two sources. The 4053 has three separate single-pole double-throw switches inside. You can tie the input select pins together so they all switch at the same time. To accommodate more sources, you can add another pair in parallel and use the inhibit pins to select which pair passes the signal. The logic circuit might need to be modified however.
@@djrkzr An Arduino would solve this, plus you can enable it over USB. You can also do this with a BCD encoder chip and SR latches with each button feeding the encoder chip. I don't have the circuit drawn anywhere and it's a little hard to explain but either will work.
You can make a comparator circuit with a rectifier and capacitor before it like a sample and hold circuit. This will sample the output and if the voltage exceeds the set threshold it will actuate the relay or turn on an LED or whatever.
@@thetuberoaster8321 Thanks but I got it working tonight with a non-latching IR receiver circuit, (removed the TSOP1738) using 2 BC548's, relay and other components. Signal out from radio into a bridge rectifier with NO smoothing capacitor otherwise it does not work like I want it too.
Yes, but to indicate all four states, you would have to build a 2-bit decoder circuit attached to the A and B outputs from the counter. The circuit is called a 2-4 line decoder to decode the binary states 0,0 , 0,1, 1,0 and 1,1. You can do it with a quad NAND chip and two inverters. The four outputs will need to have transistors on each of them to handle the LED current.
sir have a problem ,i want 6 channel audio output. and input selection between 6 channels of DVD audio and 2 channle audio of cable tv . how we do ? name of the ic and circuit diagram please.
All this nonsense is useless this was solved back in the 1980's with midi signals switching audio relays it was solved back then and has worked till 2023. No professional uses hard contact switching with multiple outputs and inputs, one of the biggest problem is the industry of using Midi audio switching has always been at a Pro level area so the boards are not easy to find as kits. Custom Audio ( the Bradshaw Switching system dude) basically had a monopoly on the Midi to Audio switching boards. Even in 2023 there is no kit available you have to build the system yourself, Voodoo Labs is a hit and miss with these smaller switching systems. Basically the only way to properly switch and mix audio inputs to outputs is using Midi Signals on a floor controller. This solves many problems as Midi is opto and the relay switches ramp up and down so you never hear any pops or hiss. I am still dumbfounded how in 2023 that no Musical audio corp has taken over this area since hardware is so cheap these days to do this. Literally a 20 in-20 out midi audio switching rack and floor controller should cost less than $500 these days but yet nothing out there, not even Behringer is in this area which is very suspicious.
Bookmarked! After a gallon of coffee and 48 straight hours of perusing broken Hackaday links and countless data sheets, this is exactly what I needed. You cornered the market on this information. Thank. You.
Diagram please...all pin connection
what You said!
im using a CD4017 as the 1 to 4 counter to indicate current input with leds and have to figure out the 2 bit counter for the cd4052 A/B selectors (i dont have any D flip flip). Everything is getting along for this project thanks to you!
can you share the schematic of yours
holy crap! This is the Missing Link! Thank You! (the 555 - Fiip-Flop switch bounce eliminator portion)
Wow thank you so much for this detailed explanation. This is perfect for my application.
Great video, exactly what I was looking for my own DIY Wah bypass switch!👍 I know about the 4053 that might be a newer version? But thinking of only doing a bypass I guess a 4966 would be more likely the way to go?
The CD4053 is not newer, it's a 3-throw version of the CD4051. The CD4052 shown here is the 2-throw version. The CD4066 is basically just four separate single-pole single-throw switches. For your pedal, likely any of these would work, but I know some pedal designs need multiple poles for the switch. In that case the CD4052 or CD4053 would be needed. Do put some zeners or some kind of protection on the input and output of the circuit though, these CMOS switches are not immune to static.
@@thetuberoaster8321 Thx a lot for your explanations and helpfull advices to point me in the right direction!
The ground for the switch circuit needs to be tied to the same ground as the audio source. Where do you to that, at the wall outlet, or a dedicated ground connection?
The audio ground (sleeve of phone jack or outer conductor of RCA jack) should be tied to Vss (pin 8) on the CD4052 switch chip. You want the audio reference to be between both power supplies so the voltage can swing up and down equally.
is there a single and dual channel version of this (for smaller layouts space available) and can it avoid click and pops in the audio when the switch occurs?
anyone have any troubles with pop/clicks when switching between audio sources? I'm using a different IC but it is also an analog spdt meant for audio switching applications, but i get pops when switching.
Thank you, Brilliant, and explained very clearly!! question please, if one source was mono, lets presume source 1, then my thought would be to simply Y split the mono on to both channels at pin 1 and 12, Would you envisage any problem with that idea? Like would the chip still be happy with 1 and 12 bridged.
It would be perfectly fine if you connect pins 1 and 12 together or for any channel. You could even connect between channels and it would be fine.
Diagram please...all pin connection
What about memory during a power failure to hold the last logic state
is the 7 pin cd4052 -9v necessary, i try disconnect it, and it still work. sorry if the question is stupid, im still beginning noob level
It will still work, but it won't be able to process signals that go below -0.5V. The purpose of split supplies is to allow the signal to swing above and below 0V and not some middle voltage above ground. You can have a DC offset and use capacitors to isolate it like in my CD4066 video. This chip has an extra pin specifically for this purpose to save you the trouble of creating a makeshift split supply and needing to add capacitors. It really depends on what you are using it for. If you are using it to process signals that never go below ground then you don't need a negative supply. If you are processing audio, you do. The split supply can also be used to power the subsequent op-amp you might need later on to process the signal with.
Could the CD4052 be run off of 5v-0? If so, would I need a voltage divider as shown in the other video?
You can run it off 5V but you would need to do the voltage divider thing and tie the 2.5V part of the divider to the ground pin of the chip (pin 8). Then the 5V would go to Vcc (pin 16) and the 0V would go to Vee (pin 7). Then you'll need caps on the input and output to isolate the DC as in the last video. The problem is after all of that you might not have enough headroom for the signal depending on what you are trying to do. A better solution would be to get one of those small switchers that take 5V and turn it into +/-9V. Then you could also power any op-amps you might want to add to the circuit.
@@thetuberoaster8321 I got this working. I have a video of my circuit. I don't know if youtube will let me share it. Thanks so much for the information
@@thetuberoaster8321 Here is the link for anyone else struggling to make this circuit ua-cam.com/video/gfXSOwXIebI/v-deo.html
Hello, I am using arduino for A and B status - 0/1 . channel 0 works fine, but any other - crap on the oscilloscope! I grounded all unused pins - also used 9V /0V/-9V power supply. I am feeling stuck. It looks like "binary" switches does not affect CD4052 :(
What might be happening is the 5V output from the Arduino is not high enough to reliably hold a high state in the CD4052. If you bring the control pins to +9V/0V manually with a wire you'll probably see it work. To get the Arduino to switch between 0V and 9V instead of 5V, you'll need to use a transistor to drive the CD4052. Anytime you work with 4000 series chips bear in mind that logic levels can often exceed 5V. The circuit you drive it with must have the same logic level or you will have problems.
Hello, I want to use this chip with a positive 12 volts only in my car. Is it okay to use if I just connect VEE and GND on the Chip together and with a voltage divider on each input?
Yes, you can do that. You can look at my other audio switch video that uses a CD4066 and voltage dividers.
Hello, we’re you able to do this? I’m trying to switch my inputs to a car stereo between a Bluetooth module and the Tuner by tapping one of the preselect micro switches on the faceplate. Seems like this circuit is the best for this just need to get it to 12V input
Thanks
Hi! Do you think this can be done with 4 different microphones with phantom power?
Yes, but you will need to isolate the inputs with coupling capacitors. The exact value will depend on the input impedance of the device after this switch. There's a chance that this circuit could introduce noise into the audio if the power supply is noisy. Usually, mics that have phantom power have a small gain stage already inside them to boost the signal which helps with noise. I think that it will not be as much of an issue as it would be for dynamic mics. Of course, you will need a separate 48V supply with resistors to each channel to they don't all short together but still get phantom power.
Can this be used with 600 ohms balanced line level? I have 2 stereo mixing positions with 2 monitors feeds going to stereo house and 2 monitors channel amplifiers. Thank you.
It should work fine as long as the signal voltage does not exceed 6 volts peak (12Vp-p) and the load (the input of the amplifier) is 600 ohms or more.
Its nice and worthy content for audio lovers. Could you please help how to add LED indicator while switching from each source.
You need a decoder circuit to turn the binary coded decimal logic back into normal counting numbers again, unless you want your LEDs counting in binary. For two inputs this is easy, all you need is an inverter. For four inputs, you need a 2 to 4 decoder chip like the SN74LVC1G139 which will give an output for each LED. The outputs are active low (inverted logic) so you will need to switch the low side of the LEDs to make one light up for each input selection.
@@thetuberoaster8321 I am using decoder circuit of 2:4 Decoder using 7404 and 7408 ics
@the tube roaster - can you plz help how to select stereo and dvd which has 6 channels like front, left, surround left, surround right and centre.
I can using relay but it would be. Much expensive, need 5 relays so thought once I select dvd, output should give 6 channel instead of stereo output(right, left)
@@SV-2277 That should work
You can use two CD4053s together to get six channels that can switch between two sources. The 4053 has three separate single-pole double-throw switches inside. You can tie the input select pins together so they all switch at the same time. To accommodate more sources, you can add another pair in parallel and use the inhibit pins to select which pair passes the signal. The logic circuit might need to be modified however.
Is there any way to have individual buttons for every input?
Yes, but the selecting circuit would have to be totally different.
@@thetuberoaster8321 would arduino solve it and control it by 2 digial pins sending either high(1) or low(0) signals?
@@djrkzr An Arduino would solve this, plus you can enable it over USB. You can also do this with a BCD encoder chip and SR latches with each button feeding the encoder chip. I don't have the circuit drawn anywhere and it's a little hard to explain but either will work.
How do I connect a relay to an FM radio output so that it can turn on a light when a strong signal is received?
You can make a comparator circuit with a rectifier and capacitor before it like a sample and hold circuit. This will sample the output and if the voltage exceeds the set threshold it will actuate the relay or turn on an LED or whatever.
@@thetuberoaster8321 Thanks but I got it working tonight with a non-latching IR receiver circuit, (removed the TSOP1738) using 2 BC548's, relay and other components. Signal out from radio into a bridge rectifier with NO smoothing capacitor otherwise it does not work like I want it too.
Is there a way to add 4 LED indicators to identify respective inputs
Yes, but to indicate all four states, you would have to build a 2-bit decoder circuit attached to the A and B outputs from the counter. The circuit is called a 2-4 line decoder to decode the binary states 0,0 , 0,1, 1,0 and 1,1. You can do it with a quad NAND chip and two inverters. The four outputs will need to have transistors on each of them to handle the LED current.
@@thetuberoaster8321Can I use a combination of 74HC02 and 74HC00 to create the 2-4 line decoder. Appreciate your help
can i use the output pin like input pin to have multiple output devices and 1 input?
Yes
sir have a problem ,i want 6 channel audio output. and input selection between 6 channels of DVD audio and 2 channle audio of cable tv . how we do ? name of the ic and circuit diagram please.
Di tunggu balik nya y
CIRCUIT DIAGRAM PLEASE...ALL PIN CONNECTION
If you want the schematics shown in the video, go to my blog: thetuberoaster.wordpress.com/2020/09/25/cd4052-audio-signal-switch/
All this nonsense is useless this was solved back in the 1980's with midi signals switching audio relays it was solved back then and has worked till 2023. No professional uses hard contact switching with multiple outputs and inputs, one of the biggest problem is the industry of using Midi audio switching has always been at a Pro level area so the boards are not easy to find as kits. Custom Audio ( the Bradshaw Switching system dude) basically had a monopoly on the Midi to Audio switching boards. Even in 2023 there is no kit available you have to build the system yourself, Voodoo Labs is a hit and miss with these smaller switching systems. Basically the only way to properly switch and mix audio inputs to outputs is using Midi Signals on a floor controller. This solves many problems as Midi is opto and the relay switches ramp up and down so you never hear any pops or hiss. I am still dumbfounded how in 2023 that no Musical audio corp has taken over this area since hardware is so cheap these days to do this. Literally a 20 in-20 out midi audio switching rack and floor controller should cost less than $500 these days but yet nothing out there, not even Behringer is in this area which is very suspicious.