Sony 24-70mm GM II. The only wildlife I'm shooting these days is my 4 y.o. daughter :) I love the versatility of clicking her from far, in action, as well as portrait-ish at 70mm. I'm so glad the Gen II is much lighter and (maybe) sharper than Gen 1. Although I'd hate to let go of my other lenses, but should I ever have to pick just one to live with for the rest of my life, the 24-70 it'd be (24 GM being a *very* close second because of much larger aperture which I use inside museums/aquariums etc.)
The first thing I do in that situation, when people ask me to take their photo, is to turn the flash on. When they review the image, they're amazed and say something like, "Dude! You're such an amazing photographer!" 🤣
Youre not just a professional photographer youre a professional teacher and guide, your content is highly inspiring, informative and getting me into the deepest depths of photography.
can we all agree that this man is the best? professional knowledge meets a pleasant person that doesn't want to secretly push some brand down your throat. thanks man. really.
Simon, you're the only UA-camr who actively discourages using manual mode. I appreciate how you emphasize creativity over struggling with manual settings. Honestly, I recently spent 20 minutes trying manual mode and found it frustrating. Switching to P mode and automatic gave me shots I loved. Thanks for always promoting creativity.
It really depends what you're doing. If you're doing wildlife, just use auto iso, man. Full Manual is good for wedding photography where the white and black clothing would throw the meter off. If you know the light, or have time to dial in the exposure exactly, then manual is good. You get much better at it with practice. I still use program mode for run and gun fast situations. Sure, you can pick your aperture to taste, but beyond a point you have to adjust it anyways.
@@mikafoxx2717 I’ve been getting more comfortable with using Shutter Priority Mode when it comes to taking photos. Recently I’ve been at events where things are changing so fast that being in Shutter Priority gives me the flexibility I need. :)
I'm so glad I didn't hear a famous couple's years-long cries of "micro-four thirds is dead" and got a Lumix G9 5 years ago. Paired with the Olympus 12-40 2.8, the system gives me dual cards, weather sealing, amazing 4K footage and photos that have gone on billboards without resolution issues.
using auto iso in a wildlife photography genre is a no brainer. The amount of once in a life time moments i did not miss because i used auto iso is really something. Nowadays cameras have a limit of the max iso you are comfortable with.
Yep, makes it a lot easier, giving you a much higher success rate, for sports or wedding etc as well, auto ISO makes it so much simpler as long as the settings are intelligently setup.
@@dayemizedDef should use it. I mean, heck, everyone is already using auto everything. With my workflow, I use auto ISO with specific manual lenses from long ago so I have to use manual aperture & focus.
Totally agree. If I messed up the shot when I was using auto-iso, it was almost always that I set the upper limit too low! I can clean up noise in post way better than I can increase shutter speed in post!
Photography is powerfull and is a TIME MACHINE with a STOP button ! it got me out of my wheellchair and depression back in 2013( I was very sick for 4 years) from my debut in Blk&WHT at 18 yold it came back to save me at 55 yold and I got into a Photo Club here in Boisbriand! Very good advice Simon ! your a perfect teacher ! keep it up 👍📸📸
Simon, I am pretty new to Wildlife Or Photography overall in general. Discovered your channel while searching for Good Manual Mode videos subscribed and watched every video in your channel since just want to say your content is pure gold no annoying "what's up dude!" Or brand based shilling just 100% content with super helpful tricks & tips. Much love & appreciation👌🏼❤
Good point. Also sick and tired of the "Hey UA-cam, how you doin?" Simon's videos are top notch. That's because he's a grounded east coast Canadian. Eh
I love Simon's videos. They really helped me a lot in improving my skills and getting my photos from mediocre to above average in a relatively short amount of time. Always high quality video's, well edited and illustrated. Great technical info. But what I like most is that Simon always emphasizes to have a critical look at yourself and this helps me realizing what i'm actually doing wrong when making choices out in the field. The best lesson i've learned in photography, or any other hobby: first admit your own failures and then act accordingly for better results. :)
I used a Canon 70-200mm f2.8 to cover assignments for 17 years. It was a real “ workhorse “ for me & it never failed me. I never once had any type of issue with this lens & I never had to send it in to Canon for any type of repair service. The lens was definitely heavy & built like a tank. I also had the Canon 24-105L f/4, but man, that 70-200mm was so versatile.😊
I'm going to test this advice. I've ordered an EF to Etch-a-Sketch adapter. I'll post the resulting photos soon. A little more seriously, the rules for photography sound a lot like the rules for writing. They're usually good guidelines, but they don't always apply, especially when you're dealing with different genres.
@@simon_dentremont one of ypur dispelled myths has to do with not needing a uv filter on the front of the lens. Also you said that lens hoods are always good except in high winds/air speed which would grab hold of the camera and move it. Well, with regard to the uv filters, what about specific situations where the front element might be in danger? When I started out I took a photography course and the instructer explained why she switched from almost never having a uv filter on the front to almost always having one on. She was in Iceland taking pictures of geyers...from a distance. No uv filter on. Next day, front element of two lenses full of specklas. Long story short the minerals in the water spray had etched...and the expensive lenses were beyond repair. A lens hood would not have helped. A uv filter would. Her lesson learned, have uv filters on more often than not even when you think the situation is safe. So while you said that your myth busting video could always have exceptions...maybe you could have been slightly less categorial with regard to uv filters? Thanks for the video and your channel.
Love the bonus myth. I shoot Olympus EM5ii (only 16 MP) and was afraid to raise the ISO because of the myths, particularly regarding m43. I purchased an f/2.8 zoom and began photographing high school sports at night or in low-light gyms, requiring high ISO for appropriate shutter speed. As long as the shadows aren't raised in post, and you don't adjust the exposure to appear like daylight, the photos are more than acceptable, even before noise reduction. Just found your channel, love the content and delivery.
Another reason the first myth is a big myth is that newer more advanced cameras offer many very specialized features that may never be used at all by most photographers or rarely at all. For example, the really fast frames per second on a Nikon D500 - well, if you shoot landscape and still products then you have no use for that feature and yet you pay for it by picking the "pro" camera. Perhaps the single most important difference between one camera body and another that will always make a difference for any and all kinds of photography would be the sensor: Can't compare the exposure latitude on the old D70 to that on the D810 (they came 12 years apart). But often the same manufacturer will put the exact same sensor on two or more camera bodies, leaving you with options and price differences so you won't need to compromise on the sensor.
Myth 4 for the win! I started on an all manual camera forty plus years ago. At the time I just put the needle in the middle and got proper exposure. All the while without knowing I was learning about exposure. Several years ago I was wondering why I’m upgrading my cameras to the newest tech, only to turn off the tech I paid for dearly and shoot manually. Now I don’t hesitate to use the auto features in my camera. I can take over if and when necessary. Leaning on these advancements in camera technology has reduced my workload, and increased my success and most importantly my enjoyment. My ego has not suffered.
@@mcloutier5 your flashback motivated me to go get out that very camera my folks gave me in 79 and put a battery in it and give it some exercise. Even though the last service was 2004, the needle lives!
My mother used a Kodak Box Brownie (1960's) to capture my brothers and sisters and I, perched in the low branches of a huge tree. Focus, and exposure are perfect, and the dappled light from the canopy creates a wonderful effect. It puts my efforts to shame.
Favorite lens is my Canon 70-200 F/2.8. I truly appreciate your honest and to the point videos, please do not ever change this. It's really nice to listen to a professional, who is a professional. Thank you again for a very informative video.
I find that what can be an additional thought about the "rule of thirds', is that the placement of the overall visual "weight" in the image can be a bit more subtle than just "the subject", which seems to be the case in the owl photo?
I appreciate how you explain the settings. Some other photographers will put a lot of other useless info in with it and it gets more confusing. Thank you for your efforts.
Discovered your channel yestersay, and your videos are such a blessing. I don't shoot wildlife, but I started photography few months ago and your videos are really helpful. I think that the sheer amount of comments you get under each videos tells a lot. Thank you!
Camera and flash manufacturers spend millions, if not billions, on research and development. The technology built into these machines is nothing short of phenomenal!! I rely heavily on letting the camera and flash set the exposures. We need to learn when and how to employ exposure compensation when needed, but for the most part, the camera is pretty good at getting the exposure correct, at least close enough that it can be easily dialed in through post processing. If you talk to anyone who worked in a pro-lab back in the film days, I bet they will tell you that most photographers weren't as accurate on the their exposures as they thought they were. This video should be mandatory for all beginning photographers. Thanks for putting this out there!! My favorite all around lens is the 50mm 1.8, and my favorite specialty lens is the 135mm f2.
I’ve thought it right from the start of your channel, and I still believe it - simply stated, you have the best bird photography videos of anyone on UA-cam. Both beginner and advanced photographers can all learn (sometimes re-learn) things from you. Thanks for all the work and enthusiasm that you put into your videos. They’re all great and many people are making better photos because of the knowledge and the images that you share. Merci beaucoup!
Everything you said were true. When I started, I wasted so much money buying cheap filters that actually had negative effect on my photos. I love the "The real photographers shot in manual" and "The real photographers always use ISO 100". I was told both of these in the past. Another great video, many thanks Simon.
So true about auto/manual modes. Sometimes I am in "pro mode", and I want to control everything on the camera. This is usually when I go out expressly for taking photos. One way I do this is with my fully mechanical film cameras, too (like the Minolta SR-1, and shooting B&W). Other times, I might be out on a family road trip, for example. In those times, I want to be able to take great photos, but I'm not gonna be in the zen photographer mode. There I go full auto, and will also probably use something like a 28-70 zoom for versatility. Still, I have been able to capture great photos!
I try to compose by intuition, where each scene has elements of masses, shapes, lights and darks, contrast and focus interests, so they all balance together; rigid formulas may be useful for initial approximations, but letting your eye soft-focus on the way the entire picture feels balanced frees you from rigid arrangements that become predictable.
I made the most progress when I stopped buying gear and started taking classes. Having someone review your work (and your classmates) and give you feedback is the fastest way to improve.
I'm so glad I found your channel. I've been doing this hobby since the early days of digital photography and this kind of no-nonsense and to the point take on photography is something that was more prevalent in the early days, but just about non-existent these days.The way that you provide tons of information in a coherent way is fantastic. Thank you.
Brilliant explanation. I'm not a meteorologist but I am a sailor and follow the weather. This explanation is like how we had in college. It's just brilliant. I did like to thank my met lecturer at south shields Pat. Uttridge.
A Myth that was holding me back was always shooting at maximum aperture. When I started shooting at f2.8, f4, f5.6 a lot of things started improving. More of the subject in focus and sharper images!
Like a lot of people I sometimes watch the occasional UA-cam video simply to kill a bit of time, usually of course about topics that interest me (I know I should get out more). However, I'm often amazed by the lack of both knowledge and understanding of a subject the person who’s presenting the video sometimes has about a topic, but especially perhaps in respect of the subject of photography (and also in respect of 'photographic equipment' too, which is not quite the same thing). Stumbling across your video though Simon was a breath of fresh air! It's great to watch a short video on UA-cam and to listen and learn from someone who’s got a proper knowledge and understanding of the subject he's talking about, rather than having to listen to all too many UA-camrs who don't seem to have a clue what they're talking about and yet who believe they do. Nice one!
Good stuff. I’ve been an armature bird/wildlife photographer for 10 years, read tons of books and seen lots of videos. Many are helpful, but your style is a step above, been binge watching your channel. Thanks!
There is a connection, everytime I struggle with something, I came to UA-cam, and surprisingly your video is on top, talking about the same struggle I came for. Is this creepy? Maybe they are hearing our inner thoughts. Great video Monsieur Simon. Merci
Hello Simon, I really appreciated your video series. When I migrated from film to digital I watched so many videos from different presenters and while some of them were at the beginning more about photography, I noticed how many started to become more and more product reviewers of cameras, lenses and related products and it made me feel like I’m missing out on upgrading to the latest and greatest. So, a big thank you to you as it brings me back to techniques and how to do things. I’m brings smiles back to my face when I explore different techniques, even when I fail at it the first times. I really appreciate your series of videos!!! Beat
I'm always worry about high ISO, and using only around 400-800, and my photo are always too dark and blurry. but today I set it up to auto up to 6400 and yes Simon is right, no need to worry too much about image noise, its better to get noisy image but amazing clear photo than a dark and blurry one.
Some absolutely fabulous advice -- for any photographer, regardless of experience. Especially about lenses and auto ISO. Great video. And great images.
My name is Sergio Martinez I’m a beginner, non professional nature and wild life photographer living in Southern California. I’m so grateful I found your videos! I can’t find words to describe how good your videos are compared to others who just give you vague information. Your videos are clear, comprehensive and pleasing to view.
It is very reassuring to hear from an established professional that certain rules are not rules. Unfortunately and oftentimes, where creativity and technology meet, there are hordes of people who are simply preaching dogma. That is most of the time based on a mixture of lazyness of thought and protection of the in-crowd hermetic exclusivity. Therefore, it is most refreshing to listen to you, Simon. Not only is your presentation immaculate (and again: thanks for leaving out the inspirational corporate stock audio...), but your teachings are inspirational in themselves. It took me four of your videos to reconsider my whole process of shooting stills and filming videos. As far as I can see now, these changes will stick, as they give me either similar results in worse conditions or better results in the original ones. I wish for you to get all the success that you surely deserve.
I am so glad I found your videos. You are an amazing teacher and photography mentor and your work and examples speak for themselves. Keep up the great work please!
I totally agree with you on a lot of these. The rule of thirds are meant to be broken. If I have that perfect symmetrical shot, I’m lining them up dead center for that portrait. I have a lot of photographers that are beginners and they’re always ask me what lens I use. So I tell them and they go and buy it and then they don’t understand why the photos don’t look like mine. Because they are in auto mode. I tell them you got to get out of auto mode I don’t care if you go into aperture control or shutter priority mode. But you can’t let the camera always decide what your aperture and shutter should be. If you like that depth of field that my images look like, take it out of auto mode and set the aperture what you like. If you go and buy that expensive lens and leave it in auto mode, you might as well just use the kit lens.
Thanks for this video this morning Simon, I always feel like you are talking to me and not down to me. Because of your advice it has helped my photography a great deal so when a photo really pops for me it makes me feel good, mission accomplished. Thanks again Simon and have a great week.
Thank you, Simon, another great video! I have already used several of your “tips and tricks” and can honestly say…… they have truly helped me to feel more prepared and confident in my photography journey. I’m already looking forward to next Monday’s video. Be well and happy shooting.
About the rule of thirds, I would add : When in doubt, zoom out a little and try different ways to crop the picture in photoshop later. Alternatively, move the camera around a bit, starting with the subject in the center and try to assess the aesthetic effect of different framing choices, take a plurality of pictures, and choose later...
On that note of taking a plurality of pictures, a great tip I read once is that given the time, try to shoot both a landscape and a portrait version of the same subject. That'll give you flexibility when it's time to print or share the photo.
Wow Simon- an honest- fact based video full of the really needed subjects for beginners, intermediates and even us old dogs (started with a view camera 55 years ago!). There need to be more info videos like this! And I love the bit on the etch-a-sketch! Will have to dig mine out and give it a go!!
As I do mostly Street Photography, I struggled a lot with manual settings because I wasn't fast enough to adapt to some scenes. I lost a good deal of potentially interesting captures while trying to get the exposure right. Then I saw a video of yours suggesting to use Auto ISO... can't thank you enough, It's was a game changer for me.
Great stuff! I subscribed to your channel after watching this video. It really speaks to how much logic goes into photography. And all too often, I see people ignore logic in support of myths. I've definitely fallen victim to the low ISO issue. I mean, I still DO prefer to shoot low ISO for noise reduction, but within reason. Early on, I was all about low ISO and a super fast lens shot wide open. Until I learned that most fast lenses don't even look their sharpest at anything wider than f2.8. And razor-thin depth of field typically hurts more than it helps in most images I take.
This is so hilarious. As an old, 120 and 35mm film amateur buff who is at last making the decision to go digital (and pro), I took two years to research the new and ever-emerging camera systems. I decided on Sony due to its versatility not only in lens availability, but for its compatibility from professional set to set. So after making this decision, what do I do? I spend my first fifteen hundred on lenses. My (grown) son said: "Mom, get the camera!" I said: "A camera is only as good as its sensor and its lens. I've done the research; these are the lenses we are going to need, and the lenses aren't going to get any cheaper as time goes by. But in the interim, they will probably introduce an even better and less expensive camera." But I will never give up my Dad's old 1950's 120mm film box camera. That lens just does something special to the light that nothing can duplicate.
Another great video, can I request a subject. Can you talk about watermarks, should it be transparent, can I use color, do you print pictures with or without them. Thank you.
I always use a lens hood because that was my mentor's advice. And I believe it was good advice. Photography is about controlling light and a lens hood adds a bit of control. But I see more and more people questioning the point of a lens hood. My favorite lens? I just bought the RF 800mm f/11. Yes, it's dark. But with bright Texas sunny skies, it is doing a wonderful job and 800mm lets me get even small wrens large enough in the frame to be useful.
I once tried and failed to see the difference on the photos with and without lens hood; in most situations its probably not there (also depends on the coating). However, a lens hood offers a great deal of protection! That alone makes it worthwhile to keep it on. I once dropped a camera with a (for my standards) fairly expensive lens with the front part of the lens hitting the floor directly. The hood was damaged, the lens wasn't. That's why the hood stays on.
@@froreyfire I agree that the lens hood adds protection and just that alone is enough to put one on. If you want, you can create a contrived set up by having a bight light outside of the field of view, off to the side, perhaps almost 90º off to the side shining across the lens. Turn the light on and off as you look through the view finder. I have a drone video where this actually happened. The drone was flying low through sparse trees and the sun was on its left. The drone had no lens hood and the flashing was very disturbing. When the light is washing over the lens, the contrast decreases. While this is contrived, you can see how it would affect, perhaps minimally and perhaps only in special situations but still it would have some effect sometimes.
Your video is spot on in regarding to myths. My only regret is that you were not doing videos then. I have bought a few pieces of equipment that I used a couple of times and realized that I didn't need it, or it was a piece of junk. Too many people rush out to buy more equipment like me and find out that it didn't work. A better camera doesn't make someone a better photographer. I have a Canon t7 and when it came to buying another camera, I bought the same thing. My favorite lens is my Sigma 150 - 600 mm C lens. Thank you once again for making a quality video and one that makes sense.
One more aspect of the rule of thirds is that it encourages you to not make a "just slightly off-center" composition, which looks like a mistake. It's basically a compromise between that and the "too close to the edge" composition. This is important because it emphasizes the skill that when you break a rule, make sure it looks intentional. If your horizon is off by 2 degrees, it's a mistake, but if it's off by 30 degrees then it's a stylistic choice. Honestly when shooting I just use the center point guideline because it's really helpful when you do want a centered, symmetrical composition. For off-center compositions, you can just look at the frame and see how it feels, no thirds guidelines needed!
Great advice! I've been shooting in aperture priority but getting too many blurred photos so I decided to try shutter priority and limit the ISO to 6400 on this particular camera. I think I'm getting more usable photos this way. Thanks again and keep up the good work.
All I can say is thank you. Many of these "myths" are what have always made me feel inadequate as a photgrapher, but thanks to this video I feel much better about how I use my camera.
Simon, thanks for the tips. Some myths have their source in the old times when film was used. I took Kodachrome 64 in bright light and some ISO 400 film for dim light. And it was grainy. The only regret that I have is that I never tried Kodachrome 25. In the digital world nowadays I find that grain in high ISO is overrated. And with a f1.2 or f1.4 lens there is usually no problem of too high ISO values.
Simon, thank you for providing this very thoughtful video. Your efforts to educated photographers new to the adventure are admirable. Even to those of us more advanced in wildlife photography, reviews of the basics never hurt. I really enjoy your content and presentation.
Someone thinks that using Lightroom/Photoshop is a 'manipulation' but in reality people have always over/underdeveloped their films, used different chemicals, chosen the contrast gradation of the paper, adjusted the filters of a color head, masked under an enlarger, cropped their images; today, in front of a monitor, it's easier, more convenient and faster.
Could not agree more. Won awards with masking / dodging under the enlarger. Sometimes just my hands! I do NOT miss processing colour in a darkroom. I used flash all the time to reduce the workload. That's history.
Simon, what a great video and invaluable advice. My only question, to which I seek your opinion, is that I use a UV filter on my Leica Q2 solely for protection because I want to take a pic within 5 secs if need be. I don't have to put the lens cap ever, and just throw it in my bag after I'm done (I almost never switch off my camera either, just let it go into standby). I find the filter quite useful for that, and for absolutely no other reason. Would you recommend this way of using the UV filter (btw, it's a Leica filter, so I trust it fully).
One thing I would point out when it comes to composition, while these are true-ish, it is important for people to know them in the beginning, and then as they say "once you know the rules, you know how to break them" (when appropriate). I always like the way that Bill Fortney used to put it "Suggestions of Thirds". The funny thing about #4 is this is that it's probably the second biggest myth (behind the "better camera = better photos") . The thing when it comes to Pros and modes is a pro doesn't always shoot on manual mode. Some might, but some don't. A pro will know when it's appropriate to use what mode. Learning manual mode is a good exercise, but don't be afraid that you'll look like an amateur or beginner if you use the priority modes. Many pros use them. And in some cases, why would you want to make more work for yourself? For #5 you have to start with a "good" photo to get a good result. Photoshop just helps you manipulate the image you already have to get the look you desired. Yes with modern AI you can create some interesting compositions from scratch, and in some cases fix a "bad" photo (to a point) using some of the AI but in reality, a good photo starts with what is done in-the-camera and ideally, before the picture is taken (ie. the photographers' eye and vision -- identifying a compelling composition, composing it in a compelling way, and using settings that portray what the photographer wants to show the viewer). Photoshop just lets you refine this. I know some people who don't touch Photoshop, and only do minor adjustments in Lightroom but otherwise the photo remains untouched for the most part except maybe accentuating certain parts of the photo through things like color/tone adjustments and doddging/burning. The one that got me the most probably was the whole FF vs APSC advice. I went to FF early on (after about 3 years of shooting with an APSC camera) in reality I could have waited a bit longer. Now doing things like wildlife and astro, I probably would have decided to move to FF but I also spent a lot on gear too, trying to find the best gear (not necessarily pro-grade, but mid-range gear) and could have saved some money in the early years. Plus I wasn't as informed about lenses at the time, so I would think that a 70-300 was a great deal for $500, and why would anyone pay $1300 for a 70-200 f/4 for example? It was 100mm shorter. Yeah, I found out later why.....
You mentioned Photoshop here. Photoshop is much maligned, mostly by people who either don't use it or don't know that there's no such thing as "natural" photography. And I think this is very unfortunate. Anyone who comes from a film and printing background will know just how important colour and tonal reproduction are, and cropping... even without any retouching at all. So when people say a photo has been made in Photoshop, as if they're making an accusation, it should be pointed out that all photographic images without exception are the result of very many decisions, both pre- and post-shutter release. Nothing at all about any process of photography can be regarded as "natural". Does anyone remember the days when most people took their finished rolls of film to the shop, and the film was developed and printed in the automatic machines? Or the fact that very many professional photographers never developed or printed their own work, but relied on good printers to bring the best out of their images? Well, camera produced jpegs, as good as they may be today, are analogous to the old fashioned automatic, calibrated d& p machines used in shops and commercial laboratories. The colour balance and exposure would be metered to be 20% grey, irrespective of other considerations, so at best the finished image would be a compromise that may or may not resemble what the photographer saw. Jpegs may be very much better than some of the old-fashioned, commercially printed images, but they are not comparable to old fashioned handmade prints done by a printer who knew how to do that. Photoshop is a tool for handmade, digitally produced images... analogous to old fashioned hand printing. If people abuse the capabilities of Photoshop, as the fashion industry so often does, that's another discussion.
What’s your favorite lens? I’m always looking to learn about my viewers’ habits to make more relevant content. Let me know!
300mm f2.8, it works for almost everything except for birds that sit in the middle of lakes,
For now…. 24-200 and 50 prime
Nikon 200-500 f/5.6-budget friendly, sharp, extremely versatile only backside is it's as heavy as some medieval blunt weapon
Canon 24x105 L on an 80D.
Sony 24-70mm GM II. The only wildlife I'm shooting these days is my 4 y.o. daughter :) I love the versatility of clicking her from far, in action, as well as portrait-ish at 70mm. I'm so glad the Gen II is much lighter and (maybe) sharper than Gen 1. Although I'd hate to let go of my other lenses, but should I ever have to pick just one to live with for the rest of my life, the 24-70 it'd be (24 GM being a *very* close second because of much larger aperture which I use inside museums/aquariums etc.)
My dad lived the myth of "sun behind the camera", so most of the family photo's are people squinting and his shadow somewhere in the foreground.🤣
haha love it.
The first thing I do in that situation, when people ask me to take their photo, is to turn the flash on. When they review the image, they're amazed and say something like, "Dude! You're such an amazing photographer!" 🤣
@@thatoneguy7047 Why do you turn the flash on?
@MaxMohawke If a person is backlit and you want to see their face in the image, use the flash to illuminate the person.
Same with mine, and the subject in the center of the frame ...
Youre not just a professional photographer youre a professional teacher and guide, your content is highly inspiring, informative and getting me into the deepest depths of photography.
I’m working on a video course for wildlife photography. Can I use your comment in promotional material, with attribution?
@@simon_dentremont of course
Je suis d’accord avec lui tu as vraiment un beau talent!! 👍🏻
Fam this is truth.
I cannot get over how great an instructor this man is.
Too kind!
How he effortlesly pours out rivers of knowledge is amazing.
Simon should make us some photo shop videos
Yep. He's great.
can we all agree that this man is the best? professional knowledge meets a pleasant person that doesn't want to secretly push some brand down your throat. thanks man. really.
Too kind!
Agreed!
Absolutely!
Got my vote.
Simon, you're the only UA-camr who actively discourages using manual mode. I appreciate how you emphasize creativity over struggling with manual settings. Honestly, I recently spent 20 minutes trying manual mode and found it frustrating. Switching to P mode and automatic gave me shots I loved. Thanks for always promoting creativity.
It really depends what you're doing. If you're doing wildlife, just use auto iso, man. Full Manual is good for wedding photography where the white and black clothing would throw the meter off. If you know the light, or have time to dial in the exposure exactly, then manual is good. You get much better at it with practice. I still use program mode for run and gun fast situations. Sure, you can pick your aperture to taste, but beyond a point you have to adjust it anyways.
@@mikafoxx2717 I’ve been getting more comfortable with using Shutter Priority Mode when it comes to taking photos. Recently I’ve been at events where things are changing so fast that being in Shutter Priority gives me the flexibility I need. :)
Yep. Way to go. Same with manual and auto on a car!
I'm so glad I didn't hear a famous couple's years-long cries of "micro-four thirds is dead" and got a Lumix G9 5 years ago. Paired with the Olympus 12-40 2.8, the system gives me dual cards, weather sealing, amazing 4K footage and photos that have gone on billboards without resolution issues.
Nothing beats listening to someone who _knows_ what they are talking about! . . . ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐👌
using auto iso in a wildlife photography genre is a no brainer. The amount of once in a life time moments i did not miss because i used auto iso is really something. Nowadays cameras have a limit of the max iso you are comfortable with.
Yep, makes it a lot easier, giving you a much higher success rate, for sports or wedding etc as well, auto ISO makes it so much simpler as long as the settings are intelligently setup.
did you mean "not using auto iso....." ?
@@dayemized Nope, we mean AutoISO, use it, Just needs to be set appropriately!
@@dayemizedDef should use it. I mean, heck, everyone is already using auto everything. With my workflow, I use auto ISO with specific manual lenses from long ago so I have to use manual aperture & focus.
Totally agree. If I messed up the shot when I was using auto-iso, it was almost always that I set the upper limit too low! I can clean up noise in post way better than I can increase shutter speed in post!
Photography is powerfull and is a TIME MACHINE with a STOP button ! it got me out of my wheellchair and depression back in 2013( I was very sick for 4 years) from my debut in Blk&WHT at 18 yold it came back to save me at 55 yold and I got into a Photo Club here in Boisbriand!
Very good advice Simon ! your a perfect teacher !
keep it up 👍📸📸
As a photographer for 50 years and someone who sold camera gear, often to a lot of top pro's I agree 100% with everything you said
Not quite 100%. Sometimes correct at the time of making and time catches up. Still the best in the world.
The Etch A Sketch comment made my day!! LOL
No doubt about it. For birding, the Canon RF 100-500 on an R7 body provides extraordinary reach and image quality.
Simon, I am pretty new to Wildlife Or Photography overall in general. Discovered your channel while searching for Good Manual Mode videos subscribed and watched every video in your channel since just want to say your content is pure gold no annoying "what's up dude!" Or brand based shilling just 100% content with super helpful tricks & tips. Much love & appreciation👌🏼❤
Ekjon bangali k eikhane dekhe besh bhalo laglo.🙂
@@sauptiksaha4875 আরে দাদা আমরা সব জায়গায় বিরাজমান😉
Good point. Also sick and tired of the "Hey UA-cam, how you doin?" Simon's videos are top notch. That's because he's a grounded east coast Canadian. Eh
@@Mimiclobster Liked the little eh at the end
5:21 rule of thirds is great however it’s better to crop vs not have enough info
I love Simon's videos. They really helped me a lot in improving my skills and getting my photos from mediocre to above average in a relatively short amount of time. Always high quality video's, well edited and illustrated. Great technical info. But what I like most is that Simon always emphasizes to have a critical look at yourself and this helps me realizing what i'm actually doing wrong when making choices out in the field. The best lesson i've learned in photography, or any other hobby: first admit your own failures and then act accordingly for better results. :)
3:19 "...on an Etch-A-Sketch..." 🤣
I used a Canon 70-200mm f2.8 to cover assignments for 17 years. It was a real “ workhorse “ for me & it never failed me. I never once had any type of issue with this lens & I never had to send it in to Canon for any type of repair service. The lens was definitely heavy & built like a tank. I also had the Canon 24-105L f/4, but man, that 70-200mm was so versatile.😊
I hate it when people say 'with such an expensive camera you can't take bad pictures'.
I'm going to test this advice. I've ordered an EF to Etch-a-Sketch adapter. I'll post the resulting photos soon.
A little more seriously, the rules for photography sound a lot like the rules for writing. They're usually good guidelines, but they don't always apply, especially when you're dealing with different genres.
I need to sell that adapter as merch from my website!!!!
Etch-a-Sketch only shoots at 1 fph
@@michaelbailey4164 And the two-tone grayscale color science is somewhat limiting.
@@simon_dentremont one of ypur dispelled myths has to do with not needing a uv filter on the front of the lens. Also you said that lens hoods are always good except in high winds/air speed which would grab hold of the camera and move it. Well, with regard to the uv filters, what about specific situations where the front element might be in danger? When I started out I took a photography course and the instructer explained why she switched from almost never having a uv filter on the front to almost always having one on.
She was in Iceland taking pictures of geyers...from a distance. No uv filter on. Next day, front element of two lenses full of specklas. Long story short the minerals in the water spray had etched...and the expensive lenses were beyond repair. A lens hood would not have helped. A uv filter would. Her lesson learned, have uv filters on more often than not even when you think the situation is safe.
So while you said that your myth busting video could always have exceptions...maybe you could have been slightly less categorial with regard to uv filters?
Thanks for the video and your channel.
Photography rules are kind of like English gramma rules... lol
I'm not actually a beginner, I just feel like one when I see your amazing pictures.
Too kind!
Love the bonus myth. I shoot Olympus EM5ii (only 16 MP) and was afraid to raise the ISO because of the myths, particularly regarding m43. I purchased an f/2.8 zoom and began photographing high school sports at night or in low-light gyms, requiring high ISO for appropriate shutter speed. As long as the shadows aren't raised in post, and you don't adjust the exposure to appear like daylight, the photos are more than acceptable, even before noise reduction. Just found your channel, love the content and delivery.
Another reason the first myth is a big myth is that newer more advanced cameras offer many very specialized features that may never be used at all by most photographers or rarely at all. For example, the really fast frames per second on a Nikon D500 - well, if you shoot landscape and still products then you have no use for that feature and yet you pay for it by picking the "pro" camera. Perhaps the single most important difference between one camera body and another that will always make a difference for any and all kinds of photography would be the sensor: Can't compare the exposure latitude on the old D70 to that on the D810 (they came 12 years apart). But often the same manufacturer will put the exact same sensor on two or more camera bodies, leaving you with options and price differences so you won't need to compromise on the sensor.
Myth 4 for the win! I started on an all manual camera forty plus years ago. At the time I just put the needle in the middle and got proper exposure. All the while without knowing I was learning about exposure. Several years ago I was wondering why I’m upgrading my cameras to the newest tech, only to turn off the tech I paid for dearly and shoot manually. Now I don’t hesitate to use the auto features in my camera. I can take over if and when necessary. Leaning on these advancements in camera technology has reduced my workload, and increased my success and most importantly my enjoyment. My ego has not suffered.
Ah, the needle. I miss the needle in my Pentax KM.
@@mcloutier5 your flashback motivated me to go get out that very camera my folks gave me in 79 and put a battery in it and give it some exercise. Even though the last service was 2004, the needle lives!
Yes, but is more fun then shooting in manual? I am from the film days as well.
My mother used a Kodak Box Brownie (1960's) to capture my brothers and sisters and I, perched in the low branches of a huge tree. Focus, and exposure are perfect, and the dappled light from the canopy creates a wonderful effect. It puts my efforts to shame.
You are a gift to UA-cam. Thank-you.
The last point ….. soooooo true…. Thank you. My d850 has a new life with me….
Favorite lens is my Canon 70-200 F/2.8. I truly appreciate your honest and to the point videos, please do not ever change this. It's really nice to listen to a professional, who is a professional. Thank you again for a very informative video.
Listed the same lens as my favourite too, a truly brilliant lens.
"Spend your big bucks on glass." How many years did it take before I heeded this advice. Too many. But it's the best advice I ever got.
I find that what can be an additional thought about the "rule of thirds', is that the placement of the overall visual "weight" in the image can be a bit more subtle than just "the subject", which seems to be the case in the owl photo?
Agreed!
Something else which I learned from my photography teacher; NEVER be dictated to by paper or film aspect ratios when composing your picture .
I appreciate how you explain the settings. Some other photographers will put a lot of other useless info in with it and it gets more confusing. Thank you for your efforts.
“I could put this lens on an Etch-a-Sketch and I could take great photos” S. d’E.
Priceless! I’m going to steal that one. Great content, as usual.
Go for it! Don’t forget you need an adapter…
Discovered your channel yestersay, and your videos are such a blessing. I don't shoot wildlife, but I started photography few months ago and your videos are really helpful. I think that the sheer amount of comments you get under each videos tells a lot. Thank you!
Camera and flash manufacturers spend millions, if not billions, on research and development. The technology built into these machines is nothing short of phenomenal!! I rely heavily on letting the camera and flash set the exposures. We need to learn when and how to employ exposure compensation when needed, but for the most part, the camera is pretty good at getting the exposure correct, at least close enough that it can be easily dialed in through post processing. If you talk to anyone who worked in a pro-lab back in the film days, I bet they will tell you that most photographers weren't as accurate on the their exposures as they thought they were.
This video should be mandatory for all beginning photographers. Thanks for putting this out there!!
My favorite all around lens is the 50mm 1.8, and my favorite specialty lens is the 135mm f2.
Very honest and trustworthy advice as usual.
Tyvm mr d'Entremont!
Dear Simon,you brush off my confusions every time i listen to your explanations.
I’ve thought it right from the start of your channel, and I still believe it - simply stated, you have the best bird photography videos of anyone on UA-cam. Both beginner and advanced photographers can all learn (sometimes re-learn) things from you. Thanks for all the work and enthusiasm that you put into your videos. They’re all great and many people are making better photos because of the knowledge and the images that you share. Merci beaucoup!
You're the best!
Robert, I’m working on a video course for wildlife photography. Can I use your comment in promotional material, with attribution?
@@simon_dentremont Absolutely and unreservedly!
Everything you said were true. When I started, I wasted so much money buying cheap filters that actually had negative effect on my photos. I love the "The real photographers shot in manual" and "The real photographers always use ISO 100". I was told both of these in the past. Another great video, many thanks Simon.
So true about auto/manual modes.
Sometimes I am in "pro mode", and I want to control everything on the camera. This is usually when I go out expressly for taking photos. One way I do this is with my fully mechanical film cameras, too (like the Minolta SR-1, and shooting B&W).
Other times, I might be out on a family road trip, for example. In those times, I want to be able to take great photos, but I'm not gonna be in the zen photographer mode. There I go full auto, and will also probably use something like a 28-70 zoom for versatility. Still, I have been able to capture great photos!
I try to compose by intuition, where each scene has elements of masses, shapes, lights and darks, contrast and focus interests, so they all balance together; rigid formulas may be useful for initial approximations, but letting your eye soft-focus on the way the entire picture feels balanced frees you from rigid arrangements that become predictable.
My photography quality went up 10x after learning how to properly approach ISO from your previous video. Thank you
Great to hear!
I made the most progress when I stopped buying gear and started taking classes. Having someone review your work (and your classmates) and give you feedback is the fastest way to improve.
Great to hear!
I'm so glad I found your channel. I've been doing this hobby since the early days of digital photography and this kind of no-nonsense and to the point take on photography is something that was more prevalent in the early days, but just about non-existent these days.The way that you provide tons of information in a coherent way is fantastic. Thank you.
Arn, I’m working on a video course for wildlife photography. Can I use your comment in promotional material, with attribution?
@@simon_dentremont Sure yoy can - if it isn't too late. I just saw this, for some reason UA-cam doesn't doesn't notify me about comments.
Brilliant explanation. I'm not a meteorologist but I am a sailor and follow the weather. This explanation is like how we had in college. It's just brilliant. I did like to thank my met lecturer at south shields Pat. Uttridge.
A Myth that was holding me back was always shooting at maximum aperture. When I started shooting at f2.8, f4, f5.6 a lot of things started improving. More of the subject in focus and sharper images!
A lower chance to get out-of-focus shots, too!
Great video thanks for sharing your knowledge
I like the 42.5mm panasonic and the 45mm Olympus
I want the 300mm Olympus
Thanks for the warning on hackers. I’ve seen the same scam on other photography channels
Like a lot of people I sometimes watch the occasional UA-cam video simply to kill a bit of time, usually of course about topics that interest me (I know I should get out more). However, I'm often amazed by the lack of both knowledge and understanding of a subject the person who’s presenting the video sometimes has about a topic, but especially perhaps in respect of the subject of photography (and also in respect of 'photographic equipment' too, which is not quite the same thing).
Stumbling across your video though Simon was a breath of fresh air! It's great to watch a short video on UA-cam and to listen and learn from someone who’s got a proper knowledge and understanding of the subject he's talking about, rather than having to listen to all too many UA-camrs who don't seem to have a clue what they're talking about and yet who believe they do. Nice one!
Thanks so much!
Good stuff. I’ve been an armature bird/wildlife photographer for 10 years, read tons of books and seen lots of videos. Many are helpful, but your style is a step above, been binge watching your channel. Thanks!
Very cool!
There’s a reason I refer people to this channel from a few photography FB pages, you’re the best!. You nailed it again with your great advice 👍
Fantastic information as always Simon. Keep em coming. 👍
There is a connection, everytime I struggle with something, I came to UA-cam, and surprisingly your video is on top, talking about the same struggle I came for. Is this creepy? Maybe they are hearing our inner thoughts.
Great video Monsieur Simon. Merci
You are so welcome!
Hello Simon,
I really appreciated your video series.
When I migrated from film to digital I watched so many videos from different presenters and while some of them were at the beginning more about photography, I noticed how many started to become more and more product reviewers of cameras, lenses and related products and it made me feel like I’m missing out on upgrading to the latest and greatest.
So, a big thank you to you as it brings me back to techniques and how to do things. I’m brings smiles back to my face when I explore different techniques, even when I fail at it the first times.
I really appreciate your series of videos!!!
Beat
I shoot mostly in black and white. Any ISO will do as the resulting noise just looks like film grain.
I'm always worry about high ISO, and using only around 400-800, and my photo are always too dark and blurry.
but today I set it up to auto up to 6400 and yes Simon is right, no need to worry too much about image noise, its better to get noisy image but amazing clear photo than a dark and blurry one.
Nice to hear a balanced view from a professional.
Always and only great videos from you Simon. Only true talk and great advices 😊
Even more words of wisdom, why am I not surprised. You never disappoint. Thank you.
Some absolutely fabulous advice -- for any photographer, regardless of experience. Especially about lenses and auto ISO.
Great video. And great images.
My name is Sergio Martinez I’m a beginner, non professional nature and wild life photographer living in Southern California. I’m so grateful I found your videos! I can’t find words to describe how good your videos are compared to others who just give you vague information. Your videos are clear, comprehensive and pleasing to view.
Watching your videos makes me feel like I should be paying you for all the valuable information.
I’m working on a wildlife photography course with even more information and tips. You can pay me then!
Great explanation Simon. Thanks for sharing your lecture on benefits of using high ISO.
It is very reassuring to hear from an established professional that certain rules are not rules. Unfortunately and oftentimes, where creativity and technology meet, there are hordes of people who are simply preaching dogma. That is most of the time based on a mixture of lazyness of thought and protection of the in-crowd hermetic exclusivity.
Therefore, it is most refreshing to listen to you, Simon. Not only is your presentation immaculate (and again: thanks for leaving out the inspirational corporate stock audio...), but your teachings are inspirational in themselves. It took me four of your videos to reconsider my whole process of shooting stills and filming videos. As far as I can see now, these changes will stick, as they give me either similar results in worse conditions or better results in the original ones.
I wish for you to get all the success that you surely deserve.
Thanks Andreas! Very kind.
I am so glad I found your videos. You are an amazing teacher and photography mentor and your work and examples speak for themselves. Keep up the great work please!
Good matter of fact delivery, great points, and thanks for keeping most of your videos under 15 minutes without the usual verbal overkill.
I appreciate that!
Simon, Thank you! Your explanations and examples are very reasoned and exceptionally clear. Keep up the great work.
I totally agree with you on a lot of these. The rule of thirds are meant to be broken. If I have that perfect symmetrical shot, I’m lining them up dead center for that portrait. I have a lot of photographers that are beginners and they’re always ask me what lens I use. So I tell them and they go and buy it and then they don’t understand why the photos don’t look like mine. Because they are in auto mode. I tell them you got to get out of auto mode I don’t care if you go into aperture control or shutter priority mode. But you can’t let the camera always decide what your aperture and shutter should be. If you like that depth of field that my images look like, take it out of auto mode and set the aperture what you like. If you go and buy that expensive lens and leave it in auto mode, you might as well just use the kit lens.
Thanks for this video this morning Simon, I always feel like you are talking to me and not down to me. Because of your advice it has helped my photography a great deal so when a photo really pops for me it makes me feel good, mission accomplished. Thanks again Simon and have a great week.
You are so welcome
Congratulations on 100k subscribers!!! Really impressive in such a short space of time but well deserved! Not a bad start to your retirement.
Thank you, Simon,
another great video! I have already used several of your “tips and tricks” and can honestly say…… they have truly helped me to feel more prepared and confident in my photography journey. I’m already looking forward to next Monday’s video.
Be well and happy shooting.
Mary, I’m working on a video course for wildlife photography. Can I use your comment in promotional material, with attribution?
@@simon_dentremont Of course, happy to help.
Loved the video, I have a Lumix S1 with their 24 to 105mm and 2 filters after 3 years. I'm 64 and learned all my skills with a Zenth-E 52 years ago.
About the rule of thirds, I would add : When in doubt, zoom out a little and try different ways to crop the picture in photoshop later. Alternatively, move the camera around a bit, starting with the subject in the center and try to assess the aesthetic effect of different framing choices, take a plurality of pictures, and choose later...
On that note of taking a plurality of pictures, a great tip I read once is that given the time, try to shoot both a landscape and a portrait version of the same subject. That'll give you flexibility when it's time to print or share the photo.
I made mistake number 3 and it costs me ton of money. How I wish I knew your channel sooner. Thanks for all your useful video, Sir.
Wow Simon- an honest- fact based video full of the really needed subjects for beginners, intermediates and even us old dogs (started with a view camera 55 years ago!). There need to be more info videos like this! And I love the bit on the etch-a-sketch! Will have to dig mine out and give it a go!!
You may need an adapter for the etch a sketch…
Robert, I’m working on a video course for wildlife photography. Can I use your comment in promotional material, with attribution?
What matters most in photography is not the stuff ahead of camera body, but behind it.
As I do mostly Street Photography, I struggled a lot with manual settings because I wasn't fast enough to adapt to some scenes. I lost a good deal of potentially interesting captures while trying to get the exposure right. Then I saw a video of yours suggesting to use Auto ISO... can't thank you enough, It's was a game changer for me.
Yeah, the street is ever-changing, we don't have time to fiddle with ISO xD
Probably the most informative channel about photography. Straight to the point, I love it here!
Great stuff! I subscribed to your channel after watching this video. It really speaks to how much logic goes into photography. And all too often, I see people ignore logic in support of myths. I've definitely fallen victim to the low ISO issue. I mean, I still DO prefer to shoot low ISO for noise reduction, but within reason. Early on, I was all about low ISO and a super fast lens shot wide open. Until I learned that most fast lenses don't even look their sharpest at anything wider than f2.8. And razor-thin depth of field typically hurts more than it helps in most images I take.
Happens to many people on my platforms... Glad you bring it up to people 🙂...
I love your videos, Simon! Thank you so much!
'A good photographer needs a good camera' - A good photographer needs imagination and the skill to use what is available to it's best.
This is so hilarious. As an old, 120 and 35mm film amateur buff who is at last making the decision to go digital (and pro), I took two years to research the new and ever-emerging camera systems. I decided on Sony due to its versatility not only in lens availability, but for its compatibility from professional set to set. So after making this decision, what do I do? I spend my first fifteen hundred on lenses. My (grown) son said: "Mom, get the camera!" I said: "A camera is only as good as its sensor and its lens. I've done the research; these are the lenses we are going to need, and the lenses aren't going to get any cheaper as time goes by. But in the interim, they will probably introduce an even better and less expensive camera." But I will never give up my Dad's old 1950's 120mm film box camera. That lens just does something special to the light that nothing can duplicate.
Thank you Mr. Simon, especially about the myth no. 4 🙏
Another great video, can I request a subject. Can you talk about watermarks, should it be transparent, can I use color, do you print pictures with or without them. Thank you.
Excellent presentation. I have just two words to say -- "I AGREE."
I always use a lens hood because that was my mentor's advice. And I believe it was good advice. Photography is about controlling light and a lens hood adds a bit of control. But I see more and more people questioning the point of a lens hood.
My favorite lens? I just bought the RF 800mm f/11. Yes, it's dark. But with bright Texas sunny skies, it is doing a wonderful job and 800mm lets me get even small wrens large enough in the frame to be useful.
I once tried and failed to see the difference on the photos with and without lens hood; in most situations its probably not there (also depends on the coating). However, a lens hood offers a great deal of protection! That alone makes it worthwhile to keep it on. I once dropped a camera with a (for my standards) fairly expensive lens with the front part of the lens hitting the floor directly. The hood was damaged, the lens wasn't. That's why the hood stays on.
@@froreyfire I agree that the lens hood adds protection and just that alone is enough to put one on.
If you want, you can create a contrived set up by having a bight light outside of the field of view, off to the side, perhaps almost 90º off to the side shining across the lens. Turn the light on and off as you look through the view finder. I have a drone video where this actually happened. The drone was flying low through sparse trees and the sun was on its left. The drone had no lens hood and the flashing was very disturbing. When the light is washing over the lens, the contrast decreases.
While this is contrived, you can see how it would affect, perhaps minimally and perhaps only in special situations but still it would have some effect sometimes.
Your video is spot on in regarding to myths. My only regret is that you were not doing videos then. I have bought a few pieces of equipment that I used a couple of times and realized that I didn't need it, or it was a piece of junk. Too many people rush out to buy more equipment like me and find out that it didn't work. A better camera doesn't make someone a better photographer. I have a Canon t7 and when it came to buying another camera, I bought the same thing. My favorite lens is my Sigma 150 - 600 mm C lens. Thank you once again for making a quality video and one that makes sense.
You are simply the BEST!!!
Wow, thank you!
One more aspect of the rule of thirds is that it encourages you to not make a "just slightly off-center" composition, which looks like a mistake. It's basically a compromise between that and the "too close to the edge" composition. This is important because it emphasizes the skill that when you break a rule, make sure it looks intentional. If your horizon is off by 2 degrees, it's a mistake, but if it's off by 30 degrees then it's a stylistic choice.
Honestly when shooting I just use the center point guideline because it's really helpful when you do want a centered, symmetrical composition. For off-center compositions, you can just look at the frame and see how it feels, no thirds guidelines needed!
righto!
Great advice! I've been shooting in aperture priority but getting too many blurred photos so I decided to try shutter priority and limit the ISO to 6400 on this particular camera. I think I'm getting more usable photos this way. Thanks again and keep up the good work.
All I can say is thank you. Many of these "myths" are what have always made me feel inadequate as a photgrapher, but thanks to this video I feel much better about how I use my camera.
Simon, thanks for the tips.
Some myths have their source in the old times when film was used. I took Kodachrome 64 in bright light and some ISO 400 film for dim light. And it was grainy.
The only regret that I have is that I never tried Kodachrome 25.
In the digital world nowadays I find that grain in high ISO is overrated.
And with a f1.2 or f1.4 lens there is usually no problem of too high ISO values.
i couldnt be more than happy and glad you made this video. You Monsieur d'Etremont are definitely a blessing to the Worlds photography community
Simon, thank you for providing this very thoughtful video. Your efforts to educated photographers new to the adventure are admirable. Even to those of us more advanced in wildlife photography, reviews of the basics never hurt. I really enjoy your content and presentation.
Many thanks!
Mark, I’m working on a video course for wildlife photography. Can I use your comment in promotional material, with attribution?
Simon, of course you may use my comments
Your photo tips are the best I've seen. Unbiased answers and honest. Keep it up.
Someone thinks that using Lightroom/Photoshop is a 'manipulation' but in reality people have always over/underdeveloped their films, used different chemicals, chosen the contrast gradation of the paper, adjusted the filters of a color head, masked under an enlarger, cropped their images; today, in front of a monitor, it's easier, more convenient and faster.
Could not agree more. Won awards with masking / dodging under the enlarger. Sometimes just my hands! I do NOT miss processing colour in a darkroom. I used flash all the time to reduce the workload. That's history.
Thank you so much for THE LAST TIP!!!!! (not giving it away) I always strived to do that all the time!!!!! I feel such a weight off my shoulders!!
Simon, what a great video and invaluable advice. My only question, to which I seek your opinion, is that I use a UV filter on my Leica Q2 solely for protection because I want to take a pic within 5 secs if need be. I don't have to put the lens cap ever, and just throw it in my bag after I'm done (I almost never switch off my camera either, just let it go into standby). I find the filter quite useful for that, and for absolutely no other reason. Would you recommend this way of using the UV filter (btw, it's a Leica filter, so I trust it fully).
Yes that’s ok. Some people advise that it affects image quality, but I don’t think thats a problem.
One thing I would point out when it comes to composition, while these are true-ish, it is important for people to know them in the beginning, and then as they say "once you know the rules, you know how to break them" (when appropriate). I always like the way that Bill Fortney used to put it "Suggestions of Thirds".
The funny thing about #4 is this is that it's probably the second biggest myth (behind the "better camera = better photos") . The thing when it comes to Pros and modes is a pro doesn't always shoot on manual mode. Some might, but some don't. A pro will know when it's appropriate to use what mode. Learning manual mode is a good exercise, but don't be afraid that you'll look like an amateur or beginner if you use the priority modes. Many pros use them. And in some cases, why would you want to make more work for yourself?
For #5 you have to start with a "good" photo to get a good result. Photoshop just helps you manipulate the image you already have to get the look you desired. Yes with modern AI you can create some interesting compositions from scratch, and in some cases fix a "bad" photo (to a point) using some of the AI but in reality, a good photo starts with what is done in-the-camera and ideally, before the picture is taken (ie. the photographers' eye and vision -- identifying a compelling composition, composing it in a compelling way, and using settings that portray what the photographer wants to show the viewer). Photoshop just lets you refine this. I know some people who don't touch Photoshop, and only do minor adjustments in Lightroom but otherwise the photo remains untouched for the most part except maybe accentuating certain parts of the photo through things like color/tone adjustments and doddging/burning.
The one that got me the most probably was the whole FF vs APSC advice. I went to FF early on (after about 3 years of shooting with an APSC camera) in reality I could have waited a bit longer. Now doing things like wildlife and astro, I probably would have decided to move to FF but I also spent a lot on gear too, trying to find the best gear (not necessarily pro-grade, but mid-range gear) and could have saved some money in the early years. Plus I wasn't as informed about lenses at the time, so I would think that a 70-300 was a great deal for $500, and why would anyone pay $1300 for a 70-200 f/4 for example? It was 100mm shorter. Yeah, I found out later why.....
You mentioned Photoshop here. Photoshop is much maligned, mostly by people who either don't use it or don't know that there's no such thing as "natural" photography. And I think this is very unfortunate.
Anyone who comes from a film and printing background will know just how important colour and tonal reproduction are, and cropping... even without any retouching at all. So when people say a photo has been made in Photoshop, as if they're making an accusation, it should be pointed out that all photographic images without exception are the result of very many decisions, both pre- and post-shutter release. Nothing at all about any process of photography can be regarded as "natural".
Does anyone remember the days when most people took their finished rolls of film to the shop, and the film was developed and printed in the automatic machines? Or the fact that very many professional photographers never developed or printed their own work, but relied on good printers to bring the best out of their images? Well, camera produced jpegs, as good as they may be today, are analogous to the old fashioned automatic, calibrated d& p machines used in shops and commercial laboratories. The colour balance and exposure would be metered to be 20% grey, irrespective of other considerations, so at best the finished image would be a compromise that may or may not resemble what the photographer saw. Jpegs may be very much better than some of the old-fashioned, commercially printed images, but they are not comparable to old fashioned handmade prints done by a printer who knew how to do that. Photoshop is a tool for handmade, digitally produced images... analogous to old fashioned hand printing.
If people abuse the capabilities of Photoshop, as the fashion industry so often does, that's another discussion.