Initial layer of electrical tape, followed by a layer of coax seal mastic, and a final layer of electrical tape is the recommended procedure. Makes removal much easier.
Initial layer you want to twist the tape so the sticky side is up and wrap from bottom to top that way the electrical tap does not goop up metal connectors. Follow up with mastic and a final two layer of electrical tape this time top to bottom and bottom to top sticky side down. Done!
The only comment I would add is if you wind the tape in the opposite direction, the tension would then to tighten the connector. The way you wrap the tension tends to losten the connector, not a lot, but possibly just enough.
VERY good point at the end that it's not a fair assumption that a bad cable will cause high SWR. Often, lousy cable shows an extremely LOW SWR... which can fool you into thinking that everything's great. Not necessarily so. It could be just a long, skinny dummy load (or nearly).
I have ben into radios n stuff for 35 years + and This is also about what i do..i just add a layer of tape First then the self sticky tape Then another layer of electrical Tape ! Most of my fiberglass vertical antennas Also get a couple of Clear Coats To ! Good Video Thanks For Sharing & 73's
Thanks for the video. Out of curiosity, is the heatshrink as UV-resistant as the Super 88 (I am thinking of applying a heatshrink tube over the Temflex)? Thanks.
And the Chameleon CHA-MIL transformer (rated @ 500 watts), is great for the "apartment dwelling operator" that has a balcony railing to work with. Although, if all you have is a window, and you can spend the extra money, get MFJ's 1622 antenna for the mounting bracket and hardware. Mount the CHA-MIL to the MFJ mounting bracket and you've got a window mounted antenna that with a good antenna tuner you should do well everywhere your license allows! KD8EFQ/73
The Chameleon system is spendy, but I’ve been happy with it and the build quality is second to none. It’s a tank. It was once a primary antenna for me when I was HOA restricted.
@@K0LWC "..spendy...", agreed. I'm disabled and on that lovely fixed income and thus had to save for a few months, but when I mounted a 102" whip on that bugger with an antenna tuner I could've sung praises despite my very thin faith in any classical higher power!
The proper method is to use Butyl Mastic tape in combination with wide UV-resistant electrical tape - such as the contents of the 3M WK-99 Wireless Weatherproofing Kit and similar kits, available from Tessco and other vendors. That kit contains enough supplies for about 20 connections. Tighten the connectors sufficiently that they won't come loose. Wrap the connectors with narrow electrical tape to protect them from the Butyl tape adhesion, stretch and wrap the Butyl tape around the area to be weatherproofed going slightly past the inner layer of tape on each end. Mold the Butyl with your hand to fuse the layers. Wrap with wide electrical tape. If the connection is vertical, wrap from bottom to top. This is how this is done in commercial and public safety RF installs for MANY years and it is very effective and inexpensive. If you need to access a connection just slice down through the layers lengthwise to your connector then peel it apart. Be warned - Butyl sticks to everything- which is why it is so good at weatherproofing- so make sure you install that inner layer of tape.
I’ve used the Temflex and Scotch 33 and it works just fine. I’ve taken connectors apart after 3 years and they looked brand new. The Butyl works but is sticky and 3 layers of tape is a bit bulky.
I’d guess you’d notice a problem with performance if you had significant water intrusion. If coax is getting stiff after being outside it could be from UV rays.
Thanks for the video. Question: does the Temflex come off without a problem if/when we need to work on our antennas? I’ve not used this product in the past.
Yes. Some connectors are more resistant to water intrusion, but still not perfect. Satellite TV coax runs can be more prone to moisture damage as tend to also carry power. The presence of DC voltage speeds up corrosion.
One last step you should do - put a zip tie over the end where the tape stops nearest the barrel connector. This keeps the electrical tape from unwinding over time.
I have already had my antenna, without waterproofing and UV-proofing imposed, installed outside the window of my house. The antenna is about 1.5 meters away from the window which means I stretch my whole body out and still can't reach the antenna. In order to manipulate/waterproof it, I have to loose four mounting bolt and withdraw the antenna with its mounting bracket. This takes time and effort. So I'm asking to see if there is any aerosol spray that can achieve waterproofing so I don't have to loose even one bolt to achieve the job.
Thanks. And, FYI, talked way too fast giving Chemflex, I had to listen 4 times to get name and number. Tip: 1st clean with alcohol to remove dirt and oil. Technique *without* that is not fully waterproof, as demonstrated by QEX immersion test.
Damn good info.
Initial layer of electrical tape, followed by a layer of coax seal mastic, and a final layer of electrical tape is the recommended procedure. Makes removal much easier.
Initial layer you want to twist the tape so the sticky side is up and wrap from bottom to top that way the electrical tap does not goop up metal connectors. Follow up with mastic and a final two layer of electrical tape this time top to bottom and bottom to top sticky side down. Done!
Not necessary. I've never had a problem removing electrical tape. Coax seal is a different matter.@@tootalltechnology8032
Electrical tape does not goop up the connectors. The mastic does.@@tootalltechnology8032
The only comment I would add is if you wind the tape in the opposite direction, the tension would then to tighten the connector. The way you wrap the tension tends to losten the connector, not a lot, but possibly just enough.
Very helpful vid. TYFP!
VERY good point at the end that it's not a fair assumption that a bad cable will cause high SWR. Often, lousy cable shows an extremely LOW SWR... which can fool you into thinking that everything's great. Not necessarily so. It could be just a long, skinny dummy load (or nearly).
I have ben into radios n stuff for 35 years + and This is also about what i do..i just add a layer of tape First then the self sticky tape Then another layer of electrical Tape ! Most of my fiberglass vertical antennas Also get a couple of Clear Coats To ! Good Video Thanks For Sharing & 73's
I needed this. Thank you.
Great tip. Thanks for sharing.
That Temflex tape is great stuff! It is amazing how much it will stretch. A little bit goes a long way! Great video, 73!
Thank you for the information. I have always used messy coax seal. I am going to try this method. Good attention to detail during the video.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the video. Out of curiosity, is the heatshrink as UV-resistant as the Super 88 (I am thinking of applying a heatshrink tube over the Temflex)? Thanks.
And the Chameleon CHA-MIL transformer (rated @ 500 watts), is great for the "apartment dwelling operator" that has a balcony railing to work with. Although, if all you have is a window, and you can spend the extra money, get MFJ's 1622 antenna for the mounting bracket and hardware. Mount the CHA-MIL to the MFJ mounting bracket and you've got a window mounted antenna that with a good antenna tuner you should do well everywhere your license allows!
KD8EFQ/73
The Chameleon system is spendy, but I’ve been happy with it and the build quality is second to none. It’s a tank. It was once a primary antenna for me when I was HOA restricted.
@@K0LWC "..spendy...", agreed. I'm disabled and on that lovely fixed income and thus had to save for a few months, but when I mounted a 102" whip on that bugger with an antenna tuner I could've sung praises despite my very thin faith in any classical higher power!
The proper method is to use Butyl Mastic tape in combination with wide UV-resistant electrical tape - such as the contents of the 3M WK-99 Wireless Weatherproofing Kit and similar kits, available from Tessco and other vendors. That kit contains enough supplies for about 20 connections. Tighten the connectors sufficiently that they won't come loose. Wrap the connectors with narrow electrical tape to protect them from the Butyl tape adhesion, stretch and wrap the Butyl tape around the area to be weatherproofed going slightly past the inner layer of tape on each end. Mold the Butyl with your hand to fuse the layers. Wrap with wide electrical tape. If the connection is vertical, wrap from bottom to top. This is how this is done in commercial and public safety RF installs for MANY years and it is very effective and inexpensive. If you need to access a connection just slice down through the layers lengthwise to your connector then peel it apart. Be warned - Butyl sticks to everything- which is why it is so good at weatherproofing- so make sure you install that inner layer of tape.
I’ve used the Temflex and Scotch 33 and it works just fine. I’ve taken connectors apart after 3 years and they looked brand new. The Butyl works but is sticky and 3 layers of tape is a bit bulky.
Good tape
Ok very nice to protect it from water it does ruin coax I know just had to change out couple water all in them swr went through roof
Indeed. Once moisture gets in you gotta replace it.
Perfect info, thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Nice
Everything is ok, but add one or two cable ties uv resistant in order to prevent the electrical
tape from unwinding. 73s
Can someone tell me if long term moisture build up in your coaxial will cause the line to stiffen?
I’d guess you’d notice a problem with performance if you had significant water intrusion. If coax is getting stiff after being outside it could be from UV rays.
Temflex. - awesome. TY!!
Hi. Can I use Permatex 22064 instead of 22058? Thanks in advance!
Thanks for the video. Question: does the Temflex come off without a problem if/when we need to work on our antennas? I’ve not used this product in the past.
Yes. Simply take a knife and cut vertically down the tape. Don’t cut all the way through, but create a score and you can pull off the tape.
Doesn’t that also go with coaxial cable that you use For pay television and over the air broadcast between the antenna and the television
Yes. Some connectors are more resistant to water intrusion, but still not perfect.
Satellite TV coax runs can be more prone to moisture damage as tend to also carry power. The presence of DC voltage speeds up corrosion.
One last step you should do - put a zip tie over the end where the tape stops nearest the barrel connector. This keeps the electrical tape from unwinding over time.
Ahhh a video on CYA... Good
I have already had my antenna, without waterproofing and UV-proofing imposed, installed outside the window of my house. The antenna is about 1.5 meters away from the window which means I stretch my whole body out and still can't reach the antenna. In order to manipulate/waterproof it, I have to loose four mounting bolt and withdraw the antenna with its mounting bracket. This takes time and effort. So I'm asking to see if there is any aerosol spray that can achieve waterproofing so I don't have to loose even one bolt to achieve the job.
Nope. Do it right and you’ll be glad you did.
There is a product I've used for years called Coax Seal. Is it protected from UV exposure?
Generally, you need a UV-protected coating of electrical tape over the coax seal. Coax Seal is just good for moisture.
"Cohesive" tape
Thanks. And, FYI, talked way too fast giving Chemflex, I had to listen 4 times to get name and number.
Tip: 1st clean with alcohol to remove dirt and oil. Technique *without* that is not fully waterproof, as demonstrated by QEX immersion test.
Over kill.. I have never seen problems of 10 year old weathered coax.