So cool! I'm gearing up for a food channel and this was super helpful. Fun side note, the materials used for this are very similar to the ones needed to make casting shapes for concrete countertops.
Glad it was helpful! Yes! I hadn't thought of that but it's true. We do pretty weird stuff on our channel and a good "materials library" is vital! -Mark
Awesome video!! well produced and super informative. I am trying to replace something that is an overbuilt set, made with 2x4's and cardboard. Overbuilt and highly subject to damage. This is exactly what we need to upgrade it.
Wow! yeah- building something like this TOO heavily actually CONTRIBUTES to the damage it takes. lol- good luck, and we're glad we could help. BTW, we consider this our most boring video :-D i hope you enjoy the others even more! hehehehe
This was great! I was just trying to explain set walls after I described a memory of my youth stumbling upon the set wall storage of the X-files in riverview hospital. I was familiar with musical theater but I remember being so mind blown it was the exact same in tbe movies 😂❤ this is actually great for theater kids new to set design as well!
Fantastic! We answer all comments in person, so ask any questions when you have them, and call us if we can help. Phone and email is on our Facebook--> Gratuitous Sets Laboratories and our web address is gratuitoussets.com -Mark
TV flats. Well that is what we called them. Theatre flats are generally made with the 1X4 on edge so they are a bunch thinner. Big proscenium stages will skin with canvas but smaller theatres will also be using luan. A super low budget version does the supports the same (TV flat style) but skins with corrugated paper (the cardboard in cardboard boxes). And yep you make a lot of walls...
I found this because I'm considering building a "video store" set, and I was wondering if you have any content regarding how to incorporate a functioning door into one of these set walls.
love this video. I was about to build a fake wall for a set for some videos and I would have done it "wrong". One question though, when you have the wider wall with the second piece of luan attached, how do you make the visible face look seamless? Do you fill it with something and sand it? Do you hide/disguise it? Thanks!
this video is awesome. So we're planning a fairly large set build. Its a cave (think like stone age). Planning to build the basic layout of the cave with flats and then coating them with a combo of expanding foam (shaved and painted), eva foam (shaved and painted), and other techniques to get the rock texture. is that how you guys would accomplish something like this or maybe something different?
This shows the use of Smooth-on urethane foams of different densities (expanding foam) We were not in a position to change the room architecture, so this was our compromise. You can start with EPS foam (styrofoam with the little beads) to carve the general shape, then goop 5 pound Foam-it on top. Directional lighting helps with the final look. Call me if you have any questions! 214-529-0045 ua-cam.com/video/TGQ1goVQmjA/v-deo.html
Hi! Thank you! Is it possible to use this method to build escape rooms, too, or do you use drywalls for those? I think this might be a cheaper and maybe quicker method but I am afraid if people lean against those plywood walls they could move and not be so stable and I am also afraid they are not ok to be used with nails to hang paintings and stuff for the same possible stability issue? Thank you
We do, but only when we can attach them flat onto an existing wall or studs. We use them when we need a SFX wall but it can't easily build it on site, so we build it in our studio and transport it. Also, it the public will be able to touch it we use 1/4" MDF or thicker as a skin. 😁
do you use 1x4 instead of 2x4 lumber for your full size walls? or did you say you used plywood cut into strips? Trying to decide what to use for the framing materials on a temporary wall I'm building in my house, for dividing a room where the primary goal is to make one section as soundproof as possible.
It's 3/4 inch plywood that we cut down to 2 5/8" strips. Nominally, it would be close to 1x3 but we save a bunch by cutting it down ourselves, and plywood is much stronger than pine or poplar 😁
Great video stumbled upon this trying to learn how to build sets for a community theater. I'm a carpenter and roofer by trade so the skillet and concepts aren't foreign to me, but still somehow I'm fairly nervous about getting in to building a set I feel like I may over build it.
@@GratuitousSets That's definitely part of my anxiety is building set pieces that are too heavy to be moved or used in a practical way. I'm trying my best to recall my theater tech days from high school and community college and then researching the rest.
Hehe- I'm glad you're getting something from it. Let us know if you have questions about anything you think we could help with; we answer very quickly :-D
Great instructional video, timeless. Would be great if you added titles with conversion to metric system, because it'll be easier for the rest of us without continuously converting mid video on a calculator, hehe. Cheers!
Great video this a career im definitely interested in I go to a vocational career center for interactive media and we have done a little bit of set construction but haven’t really gone in depth with it this video definitely was enlightening
I just built a quite a few10' tall flats with 8' sheets of Luan. I could not find a single lumber yard in southern California that stocked or could order 10 footers. Who do you order your sheet goods from?
I need a portable wall for a project that I’m working on? How could I make this stand.. wheels maybe? Also can I attached paper mache letter to this with ease?
I have 1 minute video that shows you how to make it stand. Yes- a paper mache letter would be no problem. If you message me on bookface or here I can send instructions
We get 17 sticks out of each $30 sheet of A/C plywood, but the real benefit is strength. Ply doesn't split and crack when we screw on jack stands. It can take a lot more punishment and lasts longer. We definitely used 1x4s when we first started but switched to plywood about 13 years ago.😀
We cut a dado in the frame for a full height flush piece of pine (Matt points it out in the video towards the end) both pieces of the "skin" butt against each other and are stapled to it for rigidity. We use Bondo or spackle to fill this butted seam to make it smooth (lots of sanding)😉
Is there a reason you prefer to cut down plywood instead of buying 1"x4"x10'? Is it because each bunk has 10-15% warped and twisted and cupped lumber? Are their other reasons? Thank you.
All of that, plus it is much more resistant to splitting and cracking when screwed to a jack MANY times in its life. Easier, cheaper, better, stronger, faster, sexier, fat-free, caffeinated, etc.😜
trying to make a temporary bedroom wall that I can move or take down later. what type of wood do I need and materials? Also I would like to add a door that is cheap too? very low budget. the height is 7 foot and the length is 8 foot 10 inches not including a door.
I'd need to ask you a few questions, but I would be happy to give you whatever advice you need. It shouldn't take too long, but messaging back and forth in the comments section wouldn't be very efficient-- Call me on the phone or through WhatsApp at my phone number which is listed on our facebook page. On Facebook we are Gratuitous Sets Laboratories . Let me know If this can work (or just call me)
Thank you! Could you send me the information for building jacks for these types of sets? Couldn't find your contact info on your page. Much appreciated!
How do you secure the skin on the full sized wall? Staples, brads, or screws/nails? Also, how do you secure the uprights for the full sized wall at the seam?
Hi amoledor! Sorry it took so long for me to reply. If the skin is lauan, we usually use 18 ga crown staples at 5/8” long. If the skin is 1/4” MDF, we use 23 ga pin nailer at 3/4” long. Now, here’s the complicated part... the horizontal “toggles” are dadoed to receive the vertical seam plate. Once the seam plate is inserted into the dado, it is nailed with 16 ga nails at 1 1/4 long.
Pine sucks ass. it will split easily when a screw is driven into the edge of the toggles. The frame would have a very short lifespan. pine cupps, warps and splits Ply is cheaper,truer, better, straighter, faster, stronger, etc.
hehehe safe sets. Your channel has some great content! You NEED to record with a lav mic. You will get sooo many more subscribers with such great stuff!
This is amazing. Do you mind if I give you a call (only asked as I saw you suggest on other comments). I have a potential semi permanent set to build with a door and it will be a L-shape wall...but will be my first wall. I took many notes from your (the best one) and a few others.
Gratuitous Sets I have two videos I shot for someone else who asked that question so, if you message me on our Facebook page with your email, I can send them to you 😁 Message me your email address on Facebook or post it here
I would probably use a doubler or stringer (another toggle) across the top of the walls to hold them together. Since this cant be done at the bottom, I would use a small hinge or bracket. Let me know if this makes sense 😁
this is great! I'm using the info right now. What if I want to make a 8x8 foot flat covered with 2 of those 4x8 plastic fake brick sheets. What thickness of mdf would you choose to back it? And how do you brace an 8x8 wall so it doesn't flex too much?
We've done them without backing- the dado plate takes care of that pretty well. your dado plate would be vertically centered for the brick seam. If you DO want to back it, run 1/4' or 6mm MDF horizontally, then brick panels run vertically. We have a video that shows a brick wall, entitled --> A brief story from Mark on a TV set
ua-cam.com/video/NO7qsrACQO8/v-deo.html I did these with a rubber float and a 30/70 mixture of off-white paint and drywall mud applied with a rubber float so i could squeegee off the bricks while leaving stuff in the mortar lines :-D
I try to not route sides of flats if possible, especially if it has to sit next to another flat. I find even if you are extremely careful skinning there will still inevitably be some curvature to framing material and router will follow any inconsistencies in the frame. I would rather have the skin over hung by a 1/32 in a spot and have a nice tight seam in the finished set wall. :)
Cool solution! Since our flats are 95% used for still photo shoots, we don't even dress the seams after the set is built. Since they are re-used many times, any spackle build-up just makes the re-toucher's job harder. How does the 1/32 hang over affect longevity?
Arauco A/C. Generally, a quick blade of spackle dresses anything on these. Haven't had a substantive problem in 10 years and a wall lasts probably 30 uses easily. We try to give them a quick 220 sanding between paint jobs to keep small flaws from growing.
Gratuitous Sets My shop does not currently have enough space to keep a stock inventory of walls and staging for rentals yet.(working on moving to a significantly larger shop currently that may change that) I would say 90 percent of walls we build are totally custom or weird sizes anyway, I build a lot of live theatre shows and corporate stuff. You pretty much build your walls the exact same we do in general, just a couple of my guys get overzealous routing things that should not be routed. The vast majority of things we build are not reused, so longevity is not generally an issue.
Chase Wilson I personally use 3/4 radiata pine cabinet ply. It mills nicely and generally pretty straight. Oh, I can get it for under $35 a sheet in Georgia and use it for majority of my flat construction.
With 1 person on the frame side (behind the wall) and one on the finished side start making the 2 walls flush at the bottom, working your way up. About every 2 feet or 70cm, drive a screw and washer horizontally through both frames. We use 1 5/8" drywall screws with 3/16" inner diameter/ 3/4" outer diameter washers. These are sold at Home Depot and Lowes but the ID/OD are non-standard so you will confuse the employees and end up finding them yourself. If the walls are going to be set on wheels, or if the set is semi-permanent, add 1/4 - 20 bolts with washers and nuts between the screws. Use "jack stands" to hold them upright if this is a free standing set, or use plywood "L" brace cleats to attach them to an existing wall. Make the cleats from the same 2 5/8 stock we use to build the frame, and it will fit perfectly. -Mark
I built a whole bunch of 2x4 walls using drywall for an art gallery, and I have no idea why I didn't think about doing it the set design way. It seems so obvious in hindsight.
I'll take a look. Devon does editing for us right now. He has good comic beats. Here is a vid of me he edited---> ua-cam.com/video/snmJiRPNOgo/v-deo.html
Are you guys finding 4'x10 AC Ply? that's not something I have ever run into without being a high price specialty item. With the Plywood do you have issues with the Ply De-laminating when you are screwing in Jacks to the cross section? Also, do you have any concerns about the Environmental Impact of using Lauan, we have been looking for alternatives for years, and the largest I have found is 49"x97" MDF which has its own problems (weight specifically). How often are you having your sets exceed 10'? None of the questions are meant to be "got ya" questions, but sincerely a "that's interesting, I have had problems with this concept before, are you doing something different?" In one part of the country it was more cost effective to purchase 1x12x16' and rip to 2.75" to frame out walls, and where I am now, it is more cost effective to buy 2x4 DF in any length for framing (makes no sense, but it is true, usually not much more than a cent or more per foot, but it adds up fast over a season.) So the possibility to have an alternative is extremely intriguing! (also, I think you mentioned doing a Dado cut for your seam supports, and you had a video, but I can't find the comment for that.....are you dado'ing using a Router, Table Saw, something else? Do you use the dado's on non-reusable walls (where you may want to re-use materials?)
We can get 4x10 AC, but it's not worth the expense. We often use a corrugated nailer to add an extension to the side pieces. We dont have issues with plywood delaminating, but we use washers with all jackstand screws to keep the heads from over-penetrating and splitting things apart. We used to use 1x12x16' pine or finger-jointed pine, but it splits horribly when not piloted first. Additionally, the
Not by itself, but it's easy enough. Use a block of wood (preferably plywood) behind the wall to screw the mount to. Call me at 214-529-0045 for better instructions -Mark
@@GratuitousSets Mark, Thanks for your speedy reply. I know exactly what u mean by using plywood. I really appreciate that tip. Great Video very informative. Keep up the great work!
We actually have a video on that already! It was a bit rushed, so let me know if you still have questions 😁 Here it is----> ua-cam.com/video/Q6P3PCPQMN8/v-deo.html
To be fair, Matt and I complain about our fractional system all the time- lol. If we DID use mm, we would end up using 1/2 or 1/4 mm since we try to be accurate to at LEAST 1/64"
@Erich Weiler Hmm.. I actually like the USA.. just anti-imperial I guess? But I am anti-nationalism as well ;) I don't think a people can be defined by a measurement system..
Why 2+5/8ths? ua-cam.com/video/9-qpATHHBIM/v-deo.html Seems to not fit evenly in 48. Seems to make 17.5 strips if you have an 1/8 inch kerf against a 4 foot wide sheet of plywood. 2+3/8 would give you 19.2 strips and 2+7/8 would give you 16 even. Am I missing something? (maybe you are leaving extra for waste but even a 16th inch kerf does not fit evenly with 2+5/8) Thoughts?
Hey Justin! How's things? Our kerf is 5/32 ...It's just a sweet spot between 2.5 and 3 where you don't end up with a bit of scrap that's just shy of the target and it's a good strength and size :-D
I completely agree! But, since we are in the US, the materials we use are produced in stupid english standards. If i called 1/4 inch 6mm it would only be approximate and, therefore, incorrect. I wish we could properly convert to metric.
Great video. Very informative. How do you put in a vertical seam plate for a full size wall? When do you install it? Is it part of the frame or is it done by itself before the frame? Thank you!
It is part of the frame- we use a technique called a dado to fit a plate into the frame where the two pieces will meet. Matt talks about it briefly in the video where he pulls out a full sized wall. Call me through the number on our Facebook page if it’s hard to follow or you need more info 🤪. -Mark
I'm looking through your videos trying to find this piece where he pulls out the full sized wall and haven't found anything yet, can you direct me to where or some other way to get info on hiding the seam between joined flats and/or making larger flats? Thanks!
Well... I am making these kind of walls for a photoshoot... And i always wondered how to make them sturdy enough... This video is absolute gold
Call us if you have any questions!!
Same!!
Thank you for sending me the videos for how to stabilize these walls!
Great Info!!! Thank you so much
So cool! I'm gearing up for a food channel and this was super helpful. Fun side note, the materials used for this are very similar to the ones needed to make casting shapes for concrete countertops.
Glad it was helpful! Yes! I hadn't thought of that but it's true. We do pretty weird stuff on our channel and a good "materials library" is vital! -Mark
Awesome video!! well produced and super informative. I am trying to replace something that is an overbuilt set, made with 2x4's and cardboard. Overbuilt and highly subject to damage. This is exactly what we need to upgrade it.
Wow! yeah- building something like this TOO heavily actually CONTRIBUTES to the damage it takes. lol-
good luck, and we're glad we could help. BTW, we consider this our most boring video :-D i hope you enjoy the others even more! hehehehe
Thank you for this exactly what I was looking for
Fantastic!! :-D
Nice Video. it helps to give idea about how to build a stabilize these wall. thanks for sharing with us.
Any time! Let us know how we can help 😁
Awesome, thank you very much for sharing..
Glad you enjoyed it!!
This was great! I was just trying to explain set walls after I described a memory of my youth stumbling upon the set wall storage of the X-files in riverview hospital. I was familiar with musical theater but I remember being so mind blown it was the exact same in tbe movies 😂❤ this is actually great for theater kids new to set design as well!
LOL -I'm glad you enjoyed it! I know that sometimes in theater they will use canvas sometimes, too.🤓
Thanks! This was really helpful!
Fantastic! Let me know if we can answer any questions 😀
This is fantastic! Just sent an email for how you build the jack stands. Thank you for sharing this!
Awesome, thank you! Sending now 😜
Just found your channel. Great approach to making videos. Just hit the subscribe button. Semper Fi brother!
Fantastic! We answer all comments in person, so ask any questions when you have them, and call us if we can help. Phone and email is on our Facebook--> Gratuitous Sets Laboratories and our web address is gratuitoussets.com -Mark
Wow ur really good at what u do. Plz keep making vids.
That's very kind of you to say! Thanks! We will 😀
TV flats. Well that is what we called them. Theatre flats are generally made with the 1X4 on edge so they are a bunch thinner. Big proscenium stages will skin with canvas but smaller theatres will also be using luan. A super low budget version does the supports the same (TV flat style) but skins with corrugated paper (the cardboard in cardboard boxes). And yep you make a lot of walls...
I found this because I'm considering building a "video store" set, and I was wondering if you have any content regarding how to incorporate a functioning door into one of these set walls.
I don't have a video for that yet, but you can just call me at 214-529-0045 and i can explain how to do it
Great vid!
Glad it was helpful! 😁
love this video. I was about to build a fake wall for a set for some videos and I would have done it "wrong". One question though, when you have the wider wall with the second piece of luan attached, how do you make the visible face look seamless? Do you fill it with something and sand it? Do you hide/disguise it? Thanks!
Bondo, or some other brand of auto body filler is going to be your best friend 👍😁👍
How many vertical braces would you recommend for a 3.7m long wall? and how many stabliser jacks?
Super helpful.
I can’t tell you how happy it makes us when people get something from our videos 😃 I hope our other videos inspire you, too!!
Awesome video
Glad it helped!😊
this video is awesome. So we're planning a fairly large set build. Its a cave (think like stone age). Planning to build the basic layout of the cave with flats and then coating them with a combo of expanding foam (shaved and painted), eva foam (shaved and painted), and other techniques to get the rock texture. is that how you guys would accomplish something like this or maybe something different?
Holy crap Kareem!! I have a video on that! Hang on...I'll get a link...
This shows the use of Smooth-on urethane foams of different densities (expanding foam) We were not in a position to change the room architecture, so this was our compromise. You can start with EPS foam (styrofoam with the little beads) to carve the general shape, then goop 5 pound Foam-it on top. Directional lighting helps with the final look.
Call me if you have any questions! 214-529-0045 ua-cam.com/video/TGQ1goVQmjA/v-deo.html
Hi! Thank you! Is it possible to use this method to build escape rooms, too, or do you use drywalls for those? I think this might be a cheaper and maybe quicker method but I am afraid if people lean against those plywood walls they could move and not be so stable and I am also afraid they are not ok to be used with nails to hang paintings and stuff for the same possible stability issue? Thank you
We do, but only when we can attach them flat onto an existing wall or studs. We use them when we need a SFX wall but it can't easily build it on site, so we build it in our studio and transport it. Also, it the public will be able to touch it we use 1/4" MDF or thicker as a skin. 😁
@@GratuitousSets thank you very much! So, normally, escape rooms have drywalls, right?
We generally hang them with French Cleats
Yes- Mostly drywall
do you use 1x4 instead of 2x4 lumber for your full size walls? or did you say you used plywood cut into strips? Trying to decide what to use for the framing materials on a temporary wall I'm building in my house, for dividing a room where the primary goal is to make one section as soundproof as possible.
It's 3/4 inch plywood that we cut down to 2 5/8" strips. Nominally, it would be close to 1x3 but we save a bunch by cutting it down ourselves, and plywood is much stronger than pine or poplar 😁
Great video stumbled upon this trying to learn how to build sets for a community theater. I'm a carpenter and roofer by trade so the skillet and concepts aren't foreign to me, but still somehow I'm fairly nervous about getting in to building a set I feel like I may over build it.
You can do it! I understand your apprehension, though. I've seen some sets built with 2X4's and they weigh a million pounds LOL
@@GratuitousSets That's definitely part of my anxiety is building set pieces that are too heavy to be moved or used in a practical way. I'm trying my best to recall my theater tech days from high school and community college and then researching the rest.
You can always call us if you want any suggestions or advice!😜
@@GratuitousSets that is very much appreciated and I definitely may take you up on that offer.
Phone# is on Facebook!
Thank you.
I’m glad it helped! Thanks for the “Thank you”!😀
Really helpful. thanks :)
Sweet!
This is my favorite video on UA-cam BTW.
Wow!!! That's high praise! Have you watched any of our practical effects/Game design stuff?
@@GratuitousSets I have not, but I've watched Avatar and Titanic. :D
LOL🤔
thanks, I learn a lot
Hehe- I'm glad you're getting something from it. Let us know if you have questions about anything you think we could help with; we answer very quickly :-D
will do
Great instructional video, timeless. Would be great if you added titles with conversion to metric system, because it'll be easier for the rest of us without continuously converting mid video on a calculator, hehe. Cheers!
Noted😁
Tnx for sharing this
Absolutely!😁
Great video this a career im definitely interested in I go to a vocational career center for interactive media and we have done a little bit of set construction but haven’t really gone in depth with it this video definitely was enlightening
Nice! Where is the center located?
@@GratuitousSets Groveport Ohio its a sort of small town just outside of Columbus
Our number is on our Facebook page- gimme a shout if you have any questions 😁
Coooool😎 Thanks!
Wonderful! 😃
I just built a quite a few10' tall flats with 8' sheets of Luan. I could not find a single lumber yard in southern California that stocked or could order 10 footers. Who do you order your sheet goods from?
What a pain! We get our sheet goods from a place called Rugby here in Dallas
Jones lumber should be able to help you in Socal-- they have 4x10 Lauan (spelling critical for search)
www.joneslumber.com/products/plywood
Hi I'm trying to make stairs for a set and I can't find much information regarding how to make them. Would you be able to help if I email you?
Sorry for the delayed response- Better if you call me. Get my number from our Facebook page.
I need a portable wall for a project that I’m working on? How could I make this stand.. wheels maybe? Also can I attached paper mache letter to this with ease?
I have 1 minute video that shows you how to make it stand. Yes- a paper mache letter would be no problem. If you message me on bookface or here I can send instructions
@@GratuitousSets Hey, can i get the 1 minute video or link for the stand? Won't need wheels for mine
Gracias!!!
De nada!!! 👍
Most of the flats I have seen or built are framed with 1x4s. What is the cost savings by using 3/4" ply?
We get 17 sticks out of each $30 sheet of A/C plywood, but the real benefit is strength. Ply doesn't split and crack when we screw on jack stands. It can take a lot more punishment and lasts longer. We definitely used 1x4s when we first started but switched to plywood about 13 years ago.😀
@@GratuitousSets That makes sense! Thanks
We LOVE any question! Thank you for asking and we will ALWAYS answer yours 🙏👍
@@GratuitousSets That looks like sanded plywood. Is that what you're using? Or just regular 3/4 inch ply?
For the framing? That's 3/4" A/C plywood or Baltic Birch ply would work as well
How do you make seamless the conection between one flat next to the other?
We cut a dado in the frame for a full height flush piece of pine (Matt points it out in the video towards the end) both pieces of the "skin" butt against each other and are stapled to it for rigidity. We use Bondo or spackle to fill this butted seam to make it smooth (lots of sanding)😉
What is the thickness on the verticals, rails and toggles? half inch plywood?
The whole frame is 3/4" AC plywood so it's 23/32"
:-D
Is there a reason you prefer to cut down plywood instead of buying 1"x4"x10'? Is it because each bunk has 10-15% warped and twisted and cupped lumber? Are their other reasons? Thank you.
All of that, plus it is much more resistant to splitting and cracking when screwed to a jack MANY times in its life. Easier, cheaper, better, stronger, faster, sexier, fat-free, caffeinated, etc.😜
Interesting. Thanks!
trying to make a temporary bedroom wall that I can move or take down later. what type of wood do I need and materials? Also I would like to add a door that is cheap too? very low budget.
the height is 7 foot and the length is 8 foot 10 inches not including a door.
I'd need to ask you a few questions, but I would be happy to give you whatever advice you need. It shouldn't take too long, but messaging back and forth in the comments section wouldn't be very efficient-- Call me on the phone or through WhatsApp at my phone number which is listed on our facebook page. On Facebook we are
Gratuitous Sets Laboratories . Let me know If this can work (or just call me)
Hello? Karen!😁
How do the walls get propped up so they don’t fall down? Is there a specific build for the supports?
We have a video for that! LOL- Sorry it wasn't included in the other video. Here ya go!---> ua-cam.com/video/qm1P0cmOuZs/v-deo.html
I am wanting to make a 6ft wide x 9ft length so what would be my best in inches of wood to use?
You can call me for numbers if you want help at 214-529-0045. Are you using material in metric or imperial?
What is this career called?
I’ve googled every combo I can think of and couldn’t figure it out
Thank you for this video
Hi Gerri! You might Google "Production Designer" or "Set Construction"😁
Iatse Local 44 Propmakers
Your welcome
nice presentation... you are a friendly, funny man :-)
Lol- Thank you, Sir!!
Thank you! Could you send me the information for building jacks for these types of sets? Couldn't find your contact info on your page. Much appreciated!
email me at Mark@gratsets.com and ill send it to you :-0
Matt! i need your email address
How do you secure the skin on the full sized wall? Staples, brads, or screws/nails? Also, how do you secure the uprights for the full sized wall at the seam?
Hi amoledor! Sorry it took so long for me to reply. If the skin is lauan, we usually use 18 ga crown staples at 5/8” long. If the skin is 1/4” MDF, we use 23 ga pin nailer at 3/4” long. Now, here’s the complicated part... the horizontal “toggles” are dadoed to receive the vertical seam plate. Once the seam plate is inserted into the dado, it is nailed with 16 ga nails at 1 1/4 long.
Thank you so much
😃
Curious as to any specific reason you choose to work with 3/4" AC Plywood over 1x3's?
Pine sucks ass. it will split easily when a screw is driven into the edge of the toggles. The frame would have a very short lifespan. pine cupps, warps and splits Ply is cheaper,truer, better, straighter, faster, stronger, etc.
Hello, I would like to know how to create a wall that would stand on its own. How can I contact you for information?
Hi AC !
Contact info and my phone number is on our Facebook page: Gratuitous Sets Laboratories. -Mark
Quite enjoyed your video
Cheers
J
Thanks James! We've got a bunch more but, please enjoy responsibly. lol ;-)
my goal is to practice safe sets at all times.
have a peek at my vids for light entertainment on this topic :)
Best
J
hehehe safe sets. Your channel has some great content! You NEED to record with a lav mic. You will get sooo many more subscribers with such great stuff!
I have one, I did not think it was worth the bother. I will use it in the future after your thoughtful response.
Be well
J
It makes all the difference, and more people should see your stuff
This is amazing. Do you mind if I give you a call (only asked as I saw you suggest on other comments). I have a potential semi permanent set to build with a door and it will be a L-shape wall...but will be my first wall. I took many notes from your (the best one) and a few others.
Go ahead! Shoot me a text right before you call so i know it's not spam.
MATT! PLEASE DO A VIDEO ON ARCHES FOR THEATRICAL SETS! THANK YOU!
We have one! I'll get you a link 😁
ua-cam.com/video/Q6P3PCPQMN8/v-deo.html
How do you get them to stand up? I.e. what kind of mounting goes into them?
Gratuitous Sets
I have two videos I shot for someone else who asked that question so, if you message me on our Facebook page with your email, I can send them to you 😁
Message me your email address on Facebook or post it here
@@GratuitousSets have the same question...madebycarola@gmail.com
Carolina! 3 emails sent (2 contain videos, 1 with my phone number) from thepilot402@hotmail.com -- My business email is mark@gratsets.com
How do you connect a double sided flat?
I would probably use a doubler or stringer (another toggle) across the top of the walls to hold them together. Since this cant be done at the bottom, I would use a small hinge or bracket. Let me know if this makes sense 😁
this is great! I'm using the info right now. What if I want to make a 8x8 foot flat covered with 2 of those 4x8 plastic fake brick sheets. What thickness of mdf would you choose to back it? And how do you brace an 8x8 wall so it doesn't flex too much?
We've done them without backing- the dado plate takes care of that pretty well. your dado plate would be vertically centered for the brick seam. If you DO want to back it, run 1/4' or 6mm MDF horizontally, then brick panels run vertically. We have a video that shows a brick wall, entitled --> A brief story from Mark on a TV set
also- is it masonite sheet brick like you would find at Lowes or is it vacuum formed plastic sheet brick?
@@GratuitousSets oh its masonite. so maybe it doesn't need backing.
Sweet- yep, that's your skin
ua-cam.com/video/NO7qsrACQO8/v-deo.html I did these with a rubber float and a 30/70 mixture of off-white paint and drywall mud applied with a rubber float so i could squeegee off the bricks while leaving stuff in the mortar lines :-D
How do you hide the seam where the plywood boards connect?
Spackle or Bondo, then sand carefully with 220 grit sandpaper 👍
Latex Caulk can also work.
Thank you , Sir!
I try to not route sides of flats if possible, especially if it has to sit next to another flat. I find even if you are extremely careful skinning there will still inevitably be some curvature to framing material and router will follow any inconsistencies in the frame. I would rather have the skin over hung by a 1/32 in a spot and have a nice tight seam in the finished set wall. :)
Cool solution! Since our flats are 95% used for still photo shoots, we don't even dress the seams after the set is built. Since they are re-used many times, any spackle build-up just makes the re-toucher's job harder. How does the 1/32 hang over affect longevity?
So it's assumed that any seam is removed in post. What type of ply do you use for the subframe?
Arauco A/C. Generally, a quick blade of spackle dresses anything on these. Haven't had a substantive problem in 10 years and a wall lasts probably 30 uses easily. We try to give them a quick 220 sanding between paint jobs to keep small flaws from growing.
Gratuitous Sets My shop does not currently have enough space to keep a stock inventory of walls and staging for rentals yet.(working on moving to a significantly larger shop currently that may change that) I would say 90 percent of walls we build are totally custom or weird sizes anyway, I build a lot of live theatre shows and corporate stuff. You pretty much build your walls the exact same we do in general, just a couple of my guys get overzealous routing things that should not be routed. The vast majority of things we build are not reused, so longevity is not generally an issue.
Chase Wilson I personally use 3/4 radiata pine cabinet ply. It mills nicely and generally pretty straight. Oh, I can get it for under $35 a sheet in Georgia and use it for majority of my flat construction.
How do you brace them so they'll stand up by themselves?
We use jack stands or "jacks". If you'd like, message me with an email address and I'll send you some pics :-D
Thanks for the video and the quick reply. I sent you a message.
looong email and photos sent.
did you get the email?
Doctor hable más sobre el psiliun, a mi me ayuda pero me causa dolor estomacal, está bien que lo siga usando.
How does it not tip over? I would think of someone bumped into it, it would just fall down.
Funny you should ask! We have another video called "Set Walls: How to use them" here--> ua-cam.com/video/qm1P0cmOuZs/v-deo.html
Semper Fi
Yut!
How do I connect them
With 1 person on the frame side (behind the wall) and one on the finished side start making the 2 walls flush at the bottom, working your way up. About every 2 feet or 70cm, drive a screw and washer horizontally through both frames. We use 1 5/8" drywall screws with 3/16" inner diameter/ 3/4" outer diameter washers. These are sold at Home Depot and Lowes but the ID/OD are non-standard so you will confuse the employees and end up finding them yourself.
If the walls are going to be set on wheels, or if the set is semi-permanent, add 1/4 - 20 bolts with washers and nuts between the screws.
Use "jack stands" to hold them upright if this is a free standing set, or use plywood "L" brace cleats to attach them to an existing wall. Make the cleats from the same 2 5/8 stock we use to build the frame, and it will fit perfectly. -Mark
Where do you get the wood?
We get it from a local supplier called Rugby, but any decent plywood supplier should stock 4x10 lauan or MDF. Not Home Depot or Lowes, though.
@@GratuitousSets thanks!
Absolutely! Sorry about the delayed response
I built a whole bunch of 2x4 walls using drywall for an art gallery, and I have no idea why I didn't think about doing it the set design way. It seems so obvious in hindsight.
Maybe next time...😂
Hello, can you email me the information on the back braces (to keep them upright) please? Thank you!
I have two videos I shot for someone else who asked that question so, if you message me on our Facebook page with your email, I can send them to you 😁
I think I've figured it out. Thanks!
Sweet!
Your mannerisms are funny af man 😂
Matt is an odd duck! LOL🤣 Our editing got a lot better within the last two years...
@@GratuitousSets noooo, keep it like that! Hahaha
@@GratuitousSets if you guys ever need an editor check me out!
I'll take a look. Devon does editing for us right now. He has good comic beats. Here is a vid of me he edited---> ua-cam.com/video/snmJiRPNOgo/v-deo.html
Wait... are you from New Orleans TOO?!?
Are you guys finding 4'x10 AC Ply? that's not something I have ever run into without being a high price specialty item. With the Plywood do you have issues with the Ply De-laminating when you are screwing in Jacks to the cross section? Also, do you have any concerns about the Environmental Impact of using Lauan, we have been looking for alternatives for years, and the largest I have found is 49"x97" MDF which has its own problems (weight specifically). How often are you having your sets exceed 10'? None of the questions are meant to be "got ya" questions, but sincerely a "that's interesting, I have had problems with this concept before, are you doing something different?" In one part of the country it was more cost effective to purchase 1x12x16' and rip to 2.75" to frame out walls, and where I am now, it is more cost effective to buy 2x4 DF in any length for framing (makes no sense, but it is true, usually not much more than a cent or more per foot, but it adds up fast over a season.) So the possibility to have an alternative is extremely intriguing! (also, I think you mentioned doing a Dado cut for your seam supports, and you had a video, but I can't find the comment for that.....are you dado'ing using a Router, Table Saw, something else? Do you use the dado's on non-reusable walls (where you may want to re-use materials?)
We can get 4x10 AC, but it's not worth the expense. We often use a corrugated nailer to add an extension to the side pieces. We dont have issues with plywood delaminating, but we use washers with all jackstand screws to keep the heads from over-penetrating and splitting things apart. We used to use 1x12x16' pine or finger-jointed pine, but it splits horribly when not piloted first. Additionally, the
Will a will built this way support a flat screen 36"
Not by itself, but it's easy enough. Use a block of wood (preferably plywood) behind the wall to screw the mount to. Call me at 214-529-0045 for better instructions -Mark
@@GratuitousSets
Mark,
Thanks for your speedy reply. I know exactly what u mean by using plywood. I really appreciate that tip.
Great Video very informative. Keep up the great work!
Absolutely! Thank you, "Pap" lol
How you build a curved set wall, say the interior of a tubular hallway. ?
We actually have a video on that already! It was a bit rushed, so let me know if you still have questions 😁
Here it is----> ua-cam.com/video/Q6P3PCPQMN8/v-deo.html
Note: BendBoard comes in "Drum" OR "Column" depending whether it bends on the long axis or the short axis (4'x8' sheet)
'closer to 23/32nds' - holy crap, the imperial system makes me want to vomit, (thanks for this great vid though!)
I couldn’t agree more! We curse it daily. We also have to deal with materials in nominal, imperial and metric- simultaneously. 😜
about 18mm
To be fair, Matt and I complain about our fractional system all the time- lol. If we DID use mm, we would end up using 1/2 or 1/4 mm since we try to be accurate to at LEAST 1/64"
@Erich Weiler Hmm.. I actually like the USA.. just anti-imperial I guess? But I am anti-nationalism as well ;) I don't think a people can be defined by a measurement system..
Now, my hearing isn't the greatest in the world, but I could swear at 4:23 there's an extra "ch" at the end of "trim bit". :)
Lol--Sometimes, Matt has some speech issues
So I’m guessing you hire only marine vets ?
Totally unintentionally, about half of our hires have been fellow Jarheads. Which makes it surprising how little we destroy.
measure twice cut once..
Dang! We ALWAYS get that wrong... lol
Why 2+5/8ths? ua-cam.com/video/9-qpATHHBIM/v-deo.html Seems to not fit evenly in 48. Seems to make 17.5 strips if you have an 1/8 inch kerf against a 4 foot wide sheet of plywood. 2+3/8 would give you 19.2 strips and 2+7/8 would give you 16 even. Am I missing something? (maybe you are leaving extra for waste but even a 16th inch kerf does not fit evenly with 2+5/8) Thoughts?
Hey Justin! How's things? Our kerf is 5/32 ...It's just a sweet spot between 2.5 and 3 where you don't end up with a bit of scrap that's just shy of the target and it's a good strength and size :-D
OOPS- correction---> kerf is 3/32"
quem faria isso no brazil?
Eu não sei.
Eu sinto Muito
So much math
It would be SO much easier with metric materials!
Thanks. you should be on stage. stand up about walls ... ;)
I'll tell Matt for ya! lol😂
What is this? A set for ants?
Lol- It's a scaled down version to aid the demonstration. Well quipped, sir! ;-)
@@GratuitousSets best explanation of why to leave the top and bottom styles long.
Many thanks :-D
Lol. It was a reference to zoolander.
just use metric measurements. this 2/ 5/8th", 23/32nd", 1/ 7/16th is ridiculous
I completely agree! But, since we are in the US, the materials we use are produced in stupid english standards. If i called 1/4 inch 6mm it would only be approximate and, therefore, incorrect. I wish we could properly convert to metric.
A lot of what y'all do is create a ton of waste.
Sadly, yes. I wish there were a way to recycle sawdust and scraps but, there just isn't one.
STUPID IMPERIAL SYSTEM!!!
I couldn’t agree more! 😂🙄
Great video. Very informative. How do you put in a vertical seam plate for a full size wall? When do you install it? Is it part of the frame or is it done by itself before the frame? Thank you!
It is part of the frame- we use a technique called a dado to fit a plate into the frame where the two pieces will meet. Matt talks about it briefly in the video where he pulls out a full sized wall. Call me through the number on our Facebook page if it’s hard to follow or you need more info 🤪. -Mark
I'm looking through your videos trying to find this piece where he pulls out the full sized wall and haven't found anything yet, can you direct me to where or some other way to get info on hiding the seam between joined flats and/or making larger flats? Thanks!
I can answer this, but it would be a lot of typing ;-D -- if you're in the U.S, call me at 214-529-0045 -Mark from Gratuitous Sets