129vac x 15 amp=1935 watts (those receptacles are only good for a total of 15 amps as per the manual)..Now the other hardwired connectors are good for 25 amps.. 120volts X 25 amps=3000 watts..
Yep that's awesome you can repair those inverters. I'd give anything for about 20 or 30 kw of good batteries. I have some leaf modules but no bms. Everyone says they will catch fire so I'd like some lifepo4. Yeah it's cool you make the videos like this
Glad you fixed it. It would have spent it's life in the parts department if it were mine. Not worth the time or the parts but we don't always do this stuff for a monetary reason and just the accomplishment of winning is a paycheck.... Cheers stay charged up
hrm maybe because the voltage is set pretty high it cannot achieve that due to transformer ratios so it sags and the inverter shuts off. really weird how none of these inverters have any sort of input/output current sensing.
Your surge load shutdown is the feedback potentiometer on the driver board that allows you to gauge the wattage just slowly turn it up to get the wattage you need
@@GoingOffGrid101 yes really I’m a electrical engineer that built high frequency inverter for a living and just to be more clear on your high side switching mosfets the gate drivers bjt should be replaced after a blow up and your low side igbt full load wattage reduces by half when the load it at max 3kw so if you using fgh60n60 igbt the wattage is 600 watt at the temperature 25/c that starting wattage so when the load is heavier the wattage reduces because of conductivity heating losses so the watt is 300 so buy use 8 igbt the wattage will be 2400 watt not 3000watt ok just add 4 more igbt one to each channel to get the fully 3000watt and more you will get 3650 watt to be exact
@@GoingOffGrid101 wrong voltage board ! or you talking about the low side driver or high side driver but the driver board voltage don’t cause any problems the higher the signal voltage is the better the igbt will perform but if the overloaded resistor is not controllable you should feed the that resistor it’s on the 130 volt voltage output line a big resistor is there that sense the overloaded voltage a resistor is connected to it removed it and test the valve of the resistor and feed a potentiometer with a little higher vole resistance and connected it to the board it the resistor is not a potentiometer make sure to contact the middle pin of the potentiometer to the same place the resistor is removed from the potentiometer have 3 pin one should connect to the big resistor that the 130 volt ac is passing through and the other to ground the middle pin to connected back to the same spot the resistor you removed and slowly turn to the resistor valve that the old resistor valve was I believe the resistor on that board is 500k
How are you planning to wiring your solar array, I have 1.53kw going to a 60a Controller all in parallel at 36v although I am considering upping the voltage to 72v by putting 6 pallets in pairs of 2. Problem is half of them are already on the roof.
i M wODERING WHY MY INVERTER BLOW OUT DE LAST PAIR OF FUSE OF THE LAST TRANSFORMER, WHEN I CHANGED THE FUSES IT GIVE ME A LITLLE SPARK CHOKE, THEN IT BLOW IT AGAIN. WHY?
good video, i notice you always seem to try and end your video's after a few mins and keep going on. just a suggestion make your self a outro video to help with ending your videos. i would like to see after you adjusted the volts to see if it does a better job
Better than nothing? That extra 1,000w comes in real handy when you figured out you need 3,000w min so 2/3% or .66% out of 100% The Unreliable Reliable Inverter. Why didn't you adjust the voltage to 120v before doing a stress test?
yes the loss 1000w is a big downer, but this is not the first inverter from reliable that is like this I got a 3000w modle and it only out put 2200w then I talk to them and they sent me a new 3000w inverter that does 3000w and it only cost me 150 for the new inverter.
Who makes the Reliable inverter? Made in China... Nice work on fix by the way. If you want 3000 watt then you got to go up Manga, Outback, Xantrex. I have pulled many a burnt 3000 watt China ones apart. Owner says it did not work after trying to run 2 1500 watt heaters off it. Take apart and main board said 1500 watt. Not meaning to be nasty here but there is a reason why my 3600 watt outback inverter has a big ass transformer in it people.
I have a reliable 3000w inverter that will run 2 1500w heaters, I also have and love my magnasine 4400w 48v inverter, I also have a 8000w reliable inverter that can run much much more then my beloved magnasine 4400w inverter witch cost 3 time more money.
Unfortunately it’s a no name brand (might be why it failed), but it’s a 3000w 24v one that seems to have a few mosfets on the input section that exploded. Everything else seems clean and new. The unit turns on but gives a short circuit message and doesn’t work.
I have the same inverter. Only the input voltage is 24 volts and the output voltage is 230 volts. Output frequency is 50 Hz. Recently I have problems with too low output voltages. It's a little less than 200 volts. No matter whether it is loaded or not. Can anyone figure out what it can cause? Input voltage is OK.
if you open it up there will be a little blue box with a flat screw head on it turn that 2 turns one way and check voltage, if it drops go the other way to increase voltage.
Unfortunately, this blue detail was poured over with some kind of glue or resin. I did not start trying to remove it because I'm afraid to damage this item. However, the inverter output voltage has now risen. It usually stays between 200 and 220 volts. A few days ago, it rose slightly over 230 volts. Interestingly, what could be this tension fluctuation? No interruptions have been encountered with devices powered by an inverter. Now moving on to another topic: today I discovered that the voltage from my solar panels has fallen drastically despite the sunshine. I have solar panels connected in two series (100 w panels). Under sunshine, they only delivered 25 volts of voltage under load. When I removed the load (that is, the charging controller), the voltage increased to 43 volts. I opened the connection box on the outer wall of the building and found that it was 2/3 full of ice (we still have winter in Estonia). In some ways, the rainwater has penetrated into the connecting box. Rainwater is not a good enough electrical conductor to cause short circuits. Rather, there was electrolysis there. The water in the box was darkened. Probably some chemical compound formed on the basis of copper and water. I threw off the ice with hair dryer. I cleared the wires and connected again. Voltage still 25 volts under load and does not increase. Did the connections inside the water could damage the solar panels? Is there a short circuit or other fault in the charger controller? How i can fix it? I use the cheaper Chinese PWM charger for the last few days. In the coming days I will receive the MPPT charge controller. That should also answer my question.
the inverters pot that you said is covered might be a little finicky, just be touching it can change voltage sometimes, the solar panels are 43 volt open voltage, and you use a pwm controller that brings the voltage of the panels down to the same voltage as the batteries, let you batteries fulling charge and when in float you panel voltage will rise. I take it you have a 24v inverter.
I too have the same inverter 24v 30000W unit, but my has been happily running a 32in LED Flat screen TV and PS 4 with a telephone charge station a some lights. This has taken it up to 1200W so far. However I plan to run more than this off the unit, but looking at what I am seeing here on UA-cam I beginning to wonder if I should.
129vac x 15 amp=1935 watts (those receptacles are only good for a total of 15 amps as per the manual)..Now the other hardwired connectors are good for 25 amps..
120volts X 25 amps=3000 watts..
Sure is some good INFO here for us off grid people. Keep up the good videos
thanks I am glad you like it!
Interesting video! Thanks for posting. Your only the you tuber who every time update your system and show us
Yep that's awesome you can repair those inverters. I'd give anything for about 20 or 30 kw of good batteries. I have some leaf modules but no bms. Everyone says they will catch fire so I'd like some lifepo4. Yeah it's cool you make the videos like this
Glad you fixed it. It would have spent it's life in the parts department if it were mine. Not worth the time or the parts but we don't always do this stuff for a monetary reason and just the accomplishment of winning is a paycheck.... Cheers stay charged up
ok dude thanks for getting back to me about it love your videos
hrm maybe because the voltage is set pretty high it cannot achieve that due to transformer ratios so it sags and the inverter shuts off. really weird how none of these inverters have any sort of input/output current sensing.
Where I could find the mosfets, Sir? Would you Tell me at lest, two options? Please!
Your surge load shutdown is the feedback potentiometer on the driver board that allows you to gauge the wattage just slowly turn it up to get the wattage you need
Really, I'll have to test thanks
@@GoingOffGrid101 yes really I’m a electrical engineer that built high frequency inverter for a living and just to be more clear on your high side switching mosfets the gate drivers bjt should be replaced after a blow up and your low side igbt full load wattage reduces by half when the load it at max 3kw so if you using fgh60n60 igbt the wattage is 600 watt at the temperature 25/c that starting wattage so when the load is heavier the wattage reduces because of conductivity heating losses so the watt is 300 so buy use 8 igbt the wattage will be 2400 watt not 3000watt ok just add 4 more igbt one to each channel to get the fully 3000watt and more you will get 3650 watt to be exact
@@Dc_tech386 well thank you very much!
My problem is when I ask for drivers I sometimes gets wrong voltage piggyback boards...
@@GoingOffGrid101 wrong voltage board ! or you talking about the low side driver or high side driver but the driver board voltage don’t cause any problems the higher the signal voltage is the better the igbt will perform but if the overloaded resistor is not controllable you should feed the that resistor it’s on the 130 volt voltage output line a big resistor is there that sense the overloaded voltage a resistor is connected to it removed it and test the valve of the resistor and feed a potentiometer with a little higher vole resistance and connected it to the board it the resistor is not a potentiometer make sure to contact the middle pin of the potentiometer to the same place the resistor is removed from the potentiometer have 3 pin one should connect to the big resistor that the 130 volt ac is passing through and the other to ground the middle pin to connected back to the same spot the resistor you removed and slowly turn to the resistor valve that the old resistor valve was I believe the resistor on that board is 500k
Another great video We definitely Learn alot from your videos:), is the mosfets = high amperage diodes (bridge rectifiers) or (voltage regulators)
How are you planning to wiring your solar array, I have 1.53kw going to a 60a Controller all in parallel at 36v although I am considering upping the voltage to 72v by putting 6 pallets in pairs of 2. Problem is half of them are already on the roof.
ken pen I have my panels wired 3 in series and the rest in parallel
Your gels are sagging. Mine hold at 49.5 for hours at 2500w load. But excellent work on the repair. Great series
they dont sag, that was the 20 feet of booster cables
Is it possible up up grade my inverter 2000W continuous 4000W peak ? It’s modified shin & how much modification, how high can we go ? Power wise ?
i would have to see the inverter.
What mosfets do I use to replace the original ones please have the same inverter 24v version thanks
if you email them here and ask for their repair kit for your inverter they will sell you everything you need.
info@powerreliable.com
i M wODERING WHY MY INVERTER BLOW OUT DE LAST PAIR OF FUSE OF THE LAST TRANSFORMER, WHEN I CHANGED THE FUSES IT GIVE ME A LITLLE SPARK CHOKE, THEN IT BLOW IT AGAIN. WHY?
Or is it cheeper to buy a new 1 ? I want it for my house in case !
I would buy a new one.
Great video
good video, i notice you always seem to try and end your video's after a few mins and keep going on. just a suggestion make your self a outro video to help with ending your videos. i would like to see after you adjusted the volts to see if it does a better job
I had to ship the inverter to the owner as he wanted it bad :), the video ended like this only cause me memory was full on my 64GB sd card :D
What load took the inverter out?
this inverter has a live ground, older reliable inverter, and the owner bounded the ground and neutral witch was a dead short for this inverter.
Better than nothing? That extra 1,000w comes in real handy when you figured out you need 3,000w min so 2/3% or .66% out of 100% The Unreliable Reliable Inverter. Why didn't you adjust the voltage to 120v before doing a stress test?
yes the loss 1000w is a big downer, but this is not the first inverter from reliable that is like this I got a 3000w modle and it only out put 2200w then I talk to them and they sent me a new 3000w inverter that does 3000w and it only cost me 150 for the new inverter.
Who makes the Reliable inverter? Made in China... Nice work on fix by the way. If you want 3000 watt then you got to go up Manga, Outback, Xantrex. I have pulled many a burnt 3000 watt China ones apart. Owner says it did not work after trying to run 2 1500 watt heaters off it. Take apart and main board said 1500 watt.
Not meaning to be nasty here but there is a reason why my 3600 watt outback inverter has a big ass transformer in it people.
I have a reliable 3000w inverter that will run 2 1500w heaters, I also have and love my magnasine 4400w 48v inverter, I also have a 8000w reliable inverter that can run much much more then my beloved magnasine 4400w inverter witch cost 3 time more money.
and reliable makes the inverter ,its a stand alone company I believe.
due i have the same inverter how do i send it to you to get fixed i live in ont
I only fix my own really :D its not to hard if you watch enough youtube videos
Do you fix inverters for people?
what inverter do you have that needs fixing ?
Unfortunately it’s a no name brand (might be why it failed), but it’s a 3000w 24v one that seems to have a few mosfets on the input section that exploded. Everything else seems clean and new.
The unit turns on but gives a short circuit message and doesn’t work.
@@forrestgore6874 where do you live state or province?
Washington state
@@forrestgore6874 shipping will cost almost the same as a new inverter :(
It maybe the input voltage dropped too low.
Try some different settings inside the unit.
I sent it back to the owner.
I have the same inverter. Only the input voltage is 24 volts and the output voltage is 230 volts. Output frequency is 50 Hz. Recently I have problems with too low output voltages. It's a little less than 200 volts. No matter whether it is loaded or not. Can anyone figure out what it can cause? Input voltage is OK.
if you open it up there will be a little blue box with a flat screw head on it turn that 2 turns one way and check voltage, if it drops go the other way to increase voltage.
Thanks, I'll try it over the weekend.
Unfortunately, this blue detail was poured over with some kind of glue or resin. I did not start trying to remove it because I'm afraid to damage this item.
However, the inverter output voltage has now risen. It usually stays between 200 and 220 volts. A few days ago, it rose slightly over 230 volts. Interestingly, what could be this tension fluctuation?
No interruptions have been encountered with devices powered by an inverter.
Now moving on to another topic: today I discovered that the voltage from my solar panels has fallen drastically despite the sunshine. I have solar panels connected in two series (100 w panels). Under sunshine, they only delivered 25 volts of voltage under load. When I removed the load (that is, the charging controller), the voltage increased to 43 volts. I opened the connection box on the outer wall of the building and found that it was 2/3 full of ice (we still have winter in Estonia). In some ways, the rainwater has penetrated into the connecting box. Rainwater is not a good enough electrical conductor to cause short circuits. Rather, there was electrolysis there. The water in the box was darkened. Probably some chemical compound formed on the basis of copper and water. I threw off the ice with hair dryer. I cleared the wires and connected again. Voltage still 25 volts under load and does not increase. Did the connections inside the water could damage the solar panels? Is there a short circuit or other fault in the charger controller? How i can fix it?
I use the cheaper Chinese PWM charger for the last few days. In the coming days I will receive the MPPT charge controller. That should also answer my question.
the inverters pot that you said is covered might be a little finicky, just be touching it can change voltage sometimes, the solar panels are 43 volt open voltage, and you use a pwm controller that brings the voltage of the panels down to the same voltage as the batteries, let you batteries fulling charge and when in float you panel voltage will rise. I take it you have a 24v inverter.
I too have the same inverter 24v 30000W unit, but my has been happily running a 32in LED Flat screen TV and PS 4 with a telephone charge station a some lights. This has taken it up to 1200W so far. However I plan to run more than this off the unit, but looking at what I am seeing here on UA-cam I beginning to wonder if I should.
i have inverter is not changed
The micro controller mite be set to 2000w cut off
that would be a big mistake on their part, I asked for a 3000w repair kit...
Going Off Grid do you have any photos of the cards that had lots of pins on them likely they have markings on them
no only what is on video, and I sent it back to the owner already.
You assemble the cover incorrect, The hols at the side should be in front, and not near the fans.
Ilan Y yes you are right!
but at the end I had it right :D
check my video I just did. I am not a Video maker. Put my Snap on Verus on the input cables at Idle.