This video is so great. It really is for beginners. We are in the deep south and do not expect to get the beautiful photos you did, but will be attempting.
Thanks for the tutorial. Focusing at night is a bear. I had good results this week focusing on Jupiter in live view, then framing for the comet photo. I got my best result at ISO 800, 20 seconds at f5.
We all have that problem. I solved my focus on stars by buying a eCostConnection Elite Series 3.4x Magnification Adjustable Lock-In-Place LCD Viewfinder Off of Amazon,,, if you go to Live view focus on a star,, than put this Magnifier on, now focus....to the tiniest star you can see.. thats your true focus..... you will be surprised that the guess work is gone.. I check my all my work with this item,, I bought a similar item to this,, 15 dollars,, but I dont need it connected to the camera all night,, so I hang it around my neck and spot check my photos... focus can be either on or off ,, by 1/100 of an inch, can make a difference, I find those infinity marks are not always perfect No matter who makes them. I also use this during the day time shooting jets,, its helps seeing the screen in bright sunlight.. Also when you change your focal length re-calibrate your focus again. Some times dial shift together or your hand will slightly touch your focus ring,, and throw it off. Have fun.. Good night shots takes a lot of practice.
Good comprehensive tutorial. However at the end when you show the results of the different lenses/cameras, UA-cam (I assume) blocks out the images with overlay image/links of their own to encourage your viewers to watch some 'next' random video they recommend. Perhaps it's necessary to include some lag time at the end of your videos to compensate for UA-cam practices?
For clarifications,t most entry-level cameras are cropped sensor expanding the view to 1.6X (Canon), 1.5X Nikon. A 50mm Canon lens becomes an equivalent 80mm or the 24mm pancake becomes 38mm. Most entry-level cameras can be purchased with an 18-135mmzoom lens for a max equivalent zoom of 216mm at f/5.6-even better! Astrophotography can be challenging, so it is important to know the exposure triangle. I recommend starting at f/5.6, ISO 4000, and 8 seconds for any mm lens on a sturdy tripod. Vary the shutter speed for optimum exposure, but bear in mind the longer the exposure time, the stars will begin to streak because of the earth's rotation. Also highly recommend using a remote to trigger the shutter (not mentioned), otherwise, the camera will have settling movements and a shaky image will result. The alternate is to use the 10-second delay as the 2-second delay doesn't give enough time to settle camera movements following the shutter press, On the plus side, there are long night hours and a good number of days left to photograph the comet-hopefully on clear nights.
Thank you Chris! Can't wait to get out and capture Neowise. I took your night course when you where in Castlegar; it was excellent. You helped demystify my camera. Look forward to all of your tutorial videos.
Thank You for the video. Going to try it out tonight. I am actually very near to where you shot that picture in Saskatchewan. Going to enjoy those perks of living in Saskatchewan today. Hopefully. Thanks again.
Thanks for the video. I went out last night and caught some shots. Too bad most were blurry. I watched your focusing in the dark video this morning (wish I had seen it yesterday) and will have to go out again when it is clear.
I wish I found your channel earlier. I went to see the comet on 17th night couldn't get my Nikon D3300 work. Very upset but was still able to see the comet with naked eyes. I am in Toronto and drove to Elmira Ontario to see.
Hi Chris. I watched this video and your manual night focus today. My photos of the comet came out clearer than the last 2 days. I can still improve on the focusing. I use a Nikon d3500 kit lens 300mm f6.3 iso 1600. Even played with different iso higher and lower. Also changed shutter speeds. I found 15 sec caused to much blur. Thanks for your videos and I subscribed.
joe hall I was going to get out my d5300 for shooting today but something seems to not be work right with the battery and the camera shuts off after a couple seconds of it being on :(
Chris - Thanks for the video. I've had a Rebel T3 for years and have always wanted to delve into some astrophotography. Decided to take the leap with this comet. Unsuccessful last night, hoping for better chances tonight, especially after watching your video.
@@attrell Chris I was thrilled with my experience on Sunday night and I've tried to do some different things the last couple nights in order to archive some photos for when I become better at the post processing side of things. Is there a non-instagram-way of sharing a shot or two I took with you? Twitter?
Very clear explanation. Excellent. I have a Canon Powershot and I know none of this. Is it possible to take photos of the comet with this camera. Not a DSLR.
Simply explained the whole process, inormations well delivered but my question is ... i have the kit lens Nikon Z 24-70MM f/4, is it going to be enough for doing this type of photography or I'll have to get a 2.8 or bigger aperture lens ?
Thanks man, great video. What about fisheye? And I'm headed up the mountain to shoot the comet and solar storm. On my D810 I will use a prime 85mm f1.8, on my D7500 I will use a Sigma 8mm circular fisheye, and on my D850 I was thinking 16mm prime. Would it be beneficial to use a cpl, or UV filter?
Actually this was really good.. I go out a few times with Star Gazers..50 percent of the time I am teaching photography about night photography. Not knowing their cameras I find it annoying they don't know their camera either. I will send them here ,, thanks.
Thank you so much for this tutorial! I learned way more from this video than from the instruction manual. I recently got a DSLR camera (Canon Rebel T100) and am going to try to capture Neowise this weekend. I noticed on my camera that the aperture only goes as low as f/4.0. How will this affect my shot and do I need to change any other settings because of this?
Hope you are active 🤞 I have 24mm fullframe lens. 13-25 seconds gives star trails. Is that ok if shooting comets? 🤔 I normally use 8-13 seconds to avoid trails. Iso 1600-3200. I'm getting 120mm next week.
Interesting, never thought of that. Maybe star trials might look cool? Maybe shoot 10 without star trails and then 30 to get some in purpose. Might look cool but may look bad.
I have a Canon 90D my question is will the Canon 18-135 mm kit lens work for shooting the comet and if so what settings should I use, I do have 1 prime lens the Canon 100mm prime older version I also have a Canon 18-55 a canon 35-70 a Tokina 11-16 the rest are larger zoom lenes 55-250 70-300 and a Tamron 150-600 the last 3 I doubt will work
I photographed it on 13th July (it was quite good visible) with my 70-300 mm and yesterday (it wasn't that visible anymore) with my 50 mm. My camera is old, so it has a lot of noise, even with low ISO (max is 6400 on my Canon EOS rebel t3)...that's annoying. I had a 8 second exposure everytime and went with a f/8 to f/10
Maybe you had a small aperture thats why its is not visible. Night photography needs fast lens and high ISO. Im gonna try to shoot it soon. Today its closer to Earth than ever...
The video does a good job on making it sound very simple; however seeing it with the "naked eye" is far from easy for the majority of places people look.
Yer totally agree. I was out in Northumberland in the UK. I knew where to look, below the plough is what I call it. Big pan. It's very hazy and pretty hard to see. My photos are nothing like this but I got to see it and get a few pics of it. Will keep trying to improve on it though. Good video so subbed as it's rather interesting this is
I was shooting a comet last night with a 300mm zoom lens and was less than happy with the resluts. Is this too long of a focal length. Any pointers on using this lens. i do have a 50mm and a 40mm.
look up the rule of 500 for astrophotography. basically its 500 divided by focal lenght * crop factor. so for a 200mm lens, it would be 500/(200*1.5) so about 2 seconds before you would see star streaks. the longer exposure times he talks about are for much shorter focal lenghts
I have a Nikon D7500 camera with a Nikon 35 mm f1.8 lens and a Sigma 18-35 mm f1.8 lens. What settings would you recommend and would one of these be better than the other? I also have a Nikon 200-500 mm f5.6 lens. Would this be better for a closer view or should I just crop one taken with one of the other 2? It’s a 24 mp crop sensor camera. Thanks in advance!
Great video. Highly disappointed in Comet Neowise. Really over-hyped and exaggerated by our typical propaganda news networks & overly-excited science magazines. When we (Earth) gets a comet similar to Hale-Bopp or Hyakutake, it'll be worth photographing/recording. And the Summer humidity, prevented good viewing in the Northeast USA.
I thought this comet was better than expected. But out here in Saskatchewan the sky is very dark and that helped. In 1997 Hale-bopp, I am pretty sure that was only half as exciting as this one.
This video is so great. It really is for beginners. We are in the deep south and do not expect to get the beautiful photos you did, but will be attempting.
Glad it was helpful!
thank you - great tutorial - simple and includes just about everything one needs to know
Thanks for the tutorial. Focusing at night is a bear. I had good results this week focusing on Jupiter in live view, then framing for the comet photo. I got my best result at ISO 800, 20 seconds at f5.
We all have that problem. I solved my focus on stars by buying a eCostConnection Elite Series 3.4x Magnification Adjustable Lock-In-Place LCD Viewfinder Off of Amazon,,, if you go to Live view focus on a star,, than put this Magnifier on, now focus....to the tiniest star you can see.. thats your true focus..... you will be surprised that the guess work is gone.. I check my all my work with this item,, I bought a similar item to this,, 15 dollars,, but I dont need it connected to the camera all night,, so I hang it around my neck and spot check my photos... focus can be either on or off ,, by 1/100 of an inch, can make a difference, I find those infinity marks are not always perfect No matter who makes them. I also use this during the day time shooting jets,, its helps seeing the screen in bright sunlight.. Also when you change your focal length re-calibrate your focus again. Some times dial shift together or your hand will slightly touch your focus ring,, and throw it off. Have fun.. Good night shots takes a lot of practice.
Thank you. Great start and good information. The camera settings are a great start.
great video with clear instructions.
I'm heading out tonight with my new gear to give it a try!
Can’t wait to try this. You go me interested in photography again!
You covered all of the questions I had from my first attempt last night. Thanks!
Glad it helped!
Good comprehensive tutorial. However at the end when you show the results of the different lenses/cameras, UA-cam (I assume) blocks out the images with overlay image/links of their own to encourage your viewers to watch some 'next' random video they recommend. Perhaps it's necessary to include some lag time at the end of your videos to compensate for UA-cam practices?
Good point! Thanks!
For clarifications,t most entry-level cameras are cropped sensor expanding the view to 1.6X (Canon), 1.5X Nikon. A 50mm Canon lens becomes an equivalent 80mm or the 24mm pancake becomes 38mm. Most entry-level cameras can be purchased with an 18-135mmzoom lens for a max equivalent zoom of 216mm at f/5.6-even better! Astrophotography can be challenging, so it is important to know the exposure triangle. I recommend starting at f/5.6, ISO 4000, and 8 seconds for any mm lens on a sturdy tripod. Vary the shutter speed for optimum exposure, but bear in mind the longer the exposure time, the stars will begin to streak because of the earth's rotation. Also highly recommend using a remote to trigger the shutter (not mentioned), otherwise, the camera will have settling movements and a shaky image will result. The alternate is to use the 10-second delay as the 2-second delay doesn't give enough time to settle camera movements following the shutter press, On the plus side, there are long night hours and a good number of days left to photograph the comet-hopefully on clear nights.
Very well said! Once a beginner gets some experience, using your super amazing settings and equipment will improve the quality of work.
Beautiful Nightscape images with Neowise, Chris! Love your simple guidance.
Thank you Chris! Can't wait to get out and capture Neowise.
I took your night course when you where in Castlegar; it was excellent. You helped demystify my camera. Look forward to all of your tutorial videos.
Fantastic!
Thank You for the video. Going to try it out tonight. I am actually very near to where you shot that picture in Saskatchewan. Going to enjoy those perks of living in Saskatchewan today. Hopefully. Thanks again.
Thank you! Very informative. I'm going out to Joshua Tree tonight to see if I can get a shot of the comet! Hopefully it's still visible.
That would be cool!
Thanks for the video. I went out last night and caught some shots. Too bad most were blurry. I watched your focusing in the dark video this morning (wish I had seen it yesterday) and will have to go out again when it is clear.
I wish I found your channel earlier. I went to see the comet on 17th night couldn't get my Nikon D3300 work. Very upset but was still able to see the comet with naked eyes. I am in Toronto and drove to Elmira Ontario to see.
It's breathtaking to see isn't it!
@@attrell Absolutely, very worthwhile!
Great beginner guide! THANK YOU!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Hi Chris. I watched this video and your manual night focus today. My photos of the comet came out clearer than the last 2 days. I can still improve on the focusing. I use a Nikon d3500 kit lens 300mm f6.3 iso 1600. Even played with different iso higher and lower. Also changed shutter speeds. I found 15 sec caused to much blur. Thanks for your videos and I subscribed.
joe hall I was going to get out my d5300 for shooting today but something seems to not be work right with the battery and the camera shuts off after a couple seconds of it being on :(
you would want a higher F number and a lower ISO for noise-free images
Chris - Thanks for the video. I've had a Rebel T3 for years and have always wanted to delve into some astrophotography. Decided to take the leap with this comet. Unsuccessful last night, hoping for better chances tonight, especially after watching your video.
I hope you got a shot by now!
@@attrell Chris I was thrilled with my experience on Sunday night and I've tried to do some different things the last couple nights in order to archive some photos for when I become better at the post processing side of things. Is there a non-instagram-way of sharing a shot or two I took with you? Twitter?
i did enjoy your video.
u r borne teacher.
Thank you! 😃
Great video!! Very helpful. You have some amazing content. 😀👍
Very clear explanation. Excellent. I have a Canon Powershot and I know none of this. Is it possible to take photos of the comet with this camera. Not a DSLR.
Yes, absolutely
Thank you for these helpful tips 👍
Simply explained the whole process, inormations well delivered but my question is ... i have the kit lens Nikon Z 24-70MM f/4, is it going to be enough for doing this type of photography or I'll have to get a 2.8 or bigger aperture lens ?
Should work with higher ISO, but 2.8 would be better.
Thanks again Chris.......🍂🍁🍂
So...well delivered Chris! Simple, easy to follow...good stuff! Thanks for sharing your l with us all, so that we may grow too! :)
I appreciate that!
Thanks man, great video. What about fisheye? And I'm headed up the mountain to shoot the comet and solar storm. On my D810 I will use a prime 85mm f1.8, on my D7500 I will use a Sigma 8mm circular fisheye, and on my D850 I was thinking 16mm prime. Would it be beneficial to use a cpl, or UV filter?
Actually this was really good.. I go out a few times with Star Gazers..50 percent of the time I am teaching photography about night photography. Not knowing their cameras I find it annoying they don't know their camera either. I will send them here ,, thanks.
Thank you!!!
Great tutorial, thanks! I have an 24-105 L lens. What are the settings that I should use?
25 seconds, widest aperture which is probably 3.5 and 3200 ISO. Hope it goes well!
Thanks - very clear and informative - made my day.. (and night)
Glad it helped!
Thanks for this, good tips!
Thank you so much for this tutorial! I learned way more from this video than from the instruction manual. I recently got a DSLR camera (Canon Rebel T100) and am going to try to capture Neowise this weekend. I noticed on my camera that the aperture only goes as low as f/4.0. How will this affect my shot and do I need to change any other settings because of this?
Yes some Canon are only 4.0. In that case shoot 20 or 25 seconds at least! Hope you get a great shot!!
Hi, like what time could you expect neowise to come out there in Saskatchewan?
Fantastic video.
Glad you enjoyed it
Hope you are active 🤞
I have 24mm fullframe lens. 13-25 seconds gives star trails. Is that ok if shooting comets? 🤔 I normally use 8-13 seconds to avoid trails. Iso 1600-3200. I'm getting 120mm next week.
Interesting, never thought of that. Maybe star trials might look cool? Maybe shoot 10 without star trails and then 30 to get some in purpose. Might look cool but may look bad.
Could you do another tutorial on the green comet 2023?
Too cold here in Saskatchewan right now
@@attrell I completely understand! Love the content!
i use a 50mm 1.8 and never usually go over iso 2000 and 4-6 seconds at most . even at 6 secs the background stars still blur.
great job. even i understood the instructions
Glad to hear that
I am in california , sacramento,
it seems you have better visibility up north
Very little light pollution in Saskatchewan that is for sure!
:) exactly...... this info works for his region zone...... I'm in Tijuana and is even worst....
I have a Canon 90D my question is will the Canon 18-135 mm kit lens work for shooting the comet and if so what settings should I use, I do have 1 prime lens the Canon 100mm prime older version I also have a Canon 18-55 a canon 35-70 a Tokina 11-16 the rest are larger zoom lenes 55-250 70-300 and a Tamron 150-600 the last 3 I doubt will work
Try the 18-55 and the Tokina! Both will work!
Subbed thanks Chris and regards from the UK 🇬🇧
Awesome, thank you!
I photographed it on 13th July (it was quite good visible) with my 70-300 mm and yesterday (it wasn't that visible anymore) with my 50 mm.
My camera is old, so it has a lot of noise, even with low ISO (max is 6400 on my Canon EOS rebel t3)...that's annoying.
I had a 8 second exposure everytime and went with a f/8 to f/10
Maybe you had a small aperture thats why its is not visible. Night photography needs fast lens and high ISO. Im gonna try to shoot it soon. Today its closer to Earth than ever...
Thank you!!! You've taught me exactly what I need to know for tonite. 🥰
I'm so glad!
I'm going to watch your other video on the Milky Way. Thank you!
Great stuff Chris. Give me a shout and perhaps a trip onto the hotel roof might be an interesting view later this eve. Drop me a line!
Will do. im back wednesday!
Love how your hands swing to the same beat as you talk
I never noticed that! I guess I am excited!
Chris Attrell I guess I’m just observant
The video does a good job on making it sound very simple; however seeing it with the "naked eye" is far from easy for the majority of places people look.
you're probably right. I live in SW Saskatchewan, middle of no where. In large urban centers it might be more difficult.
Yer totally agree. I was out in Northumberland in the UK. I knew where to look, below the plough is what I call it. Big pan. It's very hazy and pretty hard to see. My photos are nothing like this but I got to see it and get a few pics of it. Will keep trying to improve on it though. Good video so subbed as it's rather interesting this is
Awesome Chris...just one thing, you forgot to leave us a tip from your wife at the end of the video!..ha.ha.
Lol I did forget!
Excellent
I was shooting a comet last night with a 300mm zoom lens and was less than happy with the resluts. Is this too long of a focal length. Any pointers on using this lens. i do have a 50mm and a 40mm.
look up the rule of 500 for astrophotography. basically its 500 divided by focal lenght * crop factor. so for a 200mm lens, it would be 500/(200*1.5) so about 2 seconds before you would see star streaks. the longer exposure times he talks about are for much shorter focal lenghts
I have a Nikon D7500 camera with a Nikon 35 mm f1.8 lens and a Sigma 18-35 mm f1.8 lens. What settings would you recommend and would one of these be better than the other? I also have a Nikon 200-500 mm f5.6 lens. Would this be better for a closer view or should I just crop one taken with one of the other 2? It’s a 24 mp crop sensor camera. Thanks in advance!
I would use the sigma 18-35 to get a bit of flexibility to zoom in and out. At 1.8 you probably shoot 10 seconds and get no star trails at all!!
Chris Attrell thanks for your help! Looking forward to trying it out tonight!
I had more success tonight. Thanks again for your help. Your tutorial was the most comprehensive and most helpful of any that I viewed!
That tail is getting larger. I couldn't really see it with my naked eye anymore, but I'd assume it's almost at it's closest approach to earth.
SHould be able to see it!
The cards at the end of this video is blocking the view!
Oh oh sorry about that. I will get them removed.
😶🌫️
Great video. Highly disappointed in Comet Neowise. Really over-hyped and exaggerated by our typical propaganda news networks & overly-excited science magazines. When we (Earth) gets a comet similar to Hale-Bopp or Hyakutake, it'll be worth photographing/recording. And the Summer humidity, prevented good viewing in the Northeast USA.
I thought this comet was better than expected. But out here in Saskatchewan the sky is very dark and that helped. In 1997 Hale-bopp, I am pretty sure that was only half as exciting as this one.