Hi John. I'm following your build with great interest. Great job so far ! Your hull came out perfect ! One suggestion, if I may, on the putty application. Instead of a general spread of the putty over each gap, how about using masking tape to tape off only the areas to be filled ? (In other words, tape off the areas just above and below the gaps) I realize this is more labor intensive in it's application, but it will save you a lot of sanding in the long run if there is only a thin line of putty resulting in less material to sand off for each gap. The putty application you used in no way takes away from the final result. Like I said, it came out perfect.
Thank you very much for your kind words!!! It's a nice suggestion, but i already have used putty and sand it down. In large areas what you are suggesting is very useful. In very small gaps the time of sanding is seconds so there the masking tape will have no use. I will try it but in another model because in this one the large areas of putty using are done. Thank you again! :)
Great job so far, if I may make a suggestion for the next time you have to fill in gaps use the saw dust from sanding and mix it with some wood glue and that way you will match the color of the wood and would not have to mix the 2 different puddles together and hope the color matches. That is what I do to fill in the gaps.
@@JohnsWoodenShips you have the rough surface at first but after sanding you will be hard press to find where you used it at, that is because of the color of the sawdust which will match the color of the wood around the gap. I've done this for all the wooden boats I have made over the years.. now if you are putting a second layer of planking on do with the sawdust and glue then because we both know that the first layer does not really matter as much for looks. You can always try it out on a mock up first to see the difference between the two of them. Good luck and keep up the good work
Thank you so much for these videos John. I was wandering why you can’t glue the next planks until the white glue is dry. Because next plank gets glued separately and doesn’t touch white glue. Also I check everyday for a new Montanes video. Thanks again!
Thank you very much John!!! Sometimes the next plank is in a different depth (as you go down) so the point of glue at the arches may have white glue from the above plank. This means that the cyanoacrylic glue will mix with the white glue and it will not work like it supposed. Then you might get a plank that will pop out a few millimeters and you have to unglue it ,clean the area and do it again, that is a pain in the ... you know what i mean. So it is not recommended to place more than 3 or 4 wood strips (according the part of the keel) at the same time.
Hi John, After you sand the hull completely here first, with 150 and 400, then you put wood putty on? And then sand the wood putty areas with 150 and 400 again? I am trying to learn how to get rid of extra wood putty after I apply it, I believe you sanded after wood putty.
Hi Sam, first you apply wood putty to your big gaps and sand with the 80. Then you sand with the 150 and then with 350 or up to 500. After that you apply again wood putty where ever you need and sand only with the 350 -500.
Unreal how quick and responsive you are! Cannot appreciate your feedback and help enough, only reason I made it this far is to by religiously following your videos. Thank you, you looked like to sand the model once before any wood putty application, right?
@@mrsamimiiyes Sam 😊 you do sand it before applying any wood putty. After all you are going for the finishing looks 😊 thank you very much for your kind words ☺️
Hi John, I could not find any specific wood putty for Sapelli or this one you are using, maybe I can find a Mahogany wood putty which I think is American version of Sapelli wood. I purchased a Sapelli Dye from Occre, do you think I can use Occre's white wood putty on the keel and use the Sapelli dye on it? I think that is the point of having that Sapelli Dye but wanted to ask you.
Hi Sam! I use exactly the same here in Greece. I couldn't find sapeli either. The dye doesn't work on putty or glued surfaces, you have to dye the wood before.
@@JohnsWoodenShips You are literally life savor, between all threads and everything I have seen your videos are most extensive easy to follow resources covering a complete ship. I am a first time modeler and I chose a very expert level Occre Santisima and taking my time with it by just following your videos. So Thank you very much, on a side note, did you use any wood putty on upper part, Lime wood area? Can we fill those cracks if needed? With a natural color wood putty?
John, it looks great. Congratulations. Please keep the videos coming. I love them.
Thank you very much Bob!!!
Another excellent video John thanks.from a wet night in England 😂👍🐕🐕
Thank you very much George!!!
Good morning John. Fantastic job, Nice going!!!😊 Super!!!
Thank you very much Thanasi!!!
Remarquable résultat ,je suis fasciné ...A+
Thank you very much Robert!!!
Hi John. I'm following your build with great interest. Great job so far ! Your hull came out perfect ! One suggestion, if I may, on the putty application. Instead of a general spread of the putty over each gap, how about using masking tape to tape off only the areas to be filled ? (In other words, tape off the areas just above and below the gaps) I realize this is more labor intensive in it's application, but it will save you a lot of sanding in the long run if there is only a thin line of putty resulting in less material to sand off for each gap. The putty application you used in no way takes away from the final result. Like I said, it came out perfect.
Thank you very much for your kind words!!! It's a nice suggestion, but i already have used putty and sand it down. In large areas what you are suggesting is very useful. In very small gaps the time of sanding is seconds so there the masking tape will have no use. I will try it but in another model because in this one the large areas of putty using are done. Thank you again! :)
Great job so far, if I may make a suggestion for the next time you have to fill in gaps use the saw dust from sanding and mix it with some wood glue and that way you will match the color of the wood and would not have to mix the 2 different puddles together and hope the color matches. That is what I do to fill in the gaps.
Thank you for the tip, if i may ask, with this way (the glue with the saw dust), are you able to use sand paper without having rough surface?
@@JohnsWoodenShips you have the rough surface at first but after sanding you will be hard press to find where you used it at, that is because of the color of the sawdust which will match the color of the wood around the gap.
I've done this for all the wooden boats I have made over the years.. now if you are putting a second layer of planking on do with the sawdust and glue then because we both know that the first layer does not really matter as much for looks. You can always try it out on a mock up first to see the difference between the two of them. Good luck and keep up the good work
@@4englishlies875 Thank you again for the tip!!!
Thanks John
Thank you so much for these videos John. I was wandering why you can’t glue the next planks until the white glue is dry. Because next plank gets glued separately and doesn’t touch white glue. Also I check everyday for a new Montanes video. Thanks again!
Thank you very much John!!! Sometimes the next plank is in a different depth (as you go down) so the point of glue at the arches may have white glue from the above plank. This means that the cyanoacrylic glue will mix with the white glue and it will not work like it supposed. Then you might get a plank that will pop out a few millimeters and you have to unglue it ,clean the area and do it again, that is a pain in the ... you know what i mean. So it is not recommended to place more than 3 or 4 wood strips (according the part of the keel) at the same time.
Hi John, After you sand the hull completely here first, with 150 and 400, then you put wood putty on? And then sand the wood putty areas with 150 and 400 again? I am trying to learn how to get rid of extra wood putty after I apply it, I believe you sanded after wood putty.
Hi Sam, first you apply wood putty to your big gaps and sand with the 80. Then you sand with the 150 and then with 350 or up to 500. After that you apply again wood putty where ever you need and sand only with the 350 -500.
Unreal how quick and responsive you are! Cannot appreciate your feedback and help enough, only reason I made it this far is to by religiously following your videos. Thank you, you looked like to sand the model once before any wood putty application, right?
@@mrsamimiiyes Sam 😊 you do sand it before applying any wood putty. After all you are going for the finishing looks 😊 thank you very much for your kind words ☺️
Hi John, I could not find any specific wood putty for Sapelli or this one you are using, maybe I can find a Mahogany wood putty which I think is American version of Sapelli wood. I purchased a Sapelli Dye from Occre, do you think I can use Occre's white wood putty on the keel and use the Sapelli dye on it? I think that is the point of having that Sapelli Dye but wanted to ask you.
Hi Sam! I use exactly the same here in Greece. I couldn't find sapeli either. The dye doesn't work on putty or glued surfaces, you have to dye the wood before.
@@JohnsWoodenShips You are literally life savor, between all threads and everything I have seen your videos are most extensive easy to follow resources covering a complete ship. I am a first time modeler and I chose a very expert level Occre Santisima and taking my time with it by just following your videos. So Thank you very much, on a side note, did you use any wood putty on upper part, Lime wood area? Can we fill those cracks if needed? With a natural color wood putty?
@@mrsamimii Thank you very much for your kind words!!! Rarely i have used, yes and you can use the natural color wood putty or pine tree wood putty.
Hi!
Where to buy that putty?
I have bought it from the local hardware store.