Hey everyone, John Baker had a really good suggestion below...Roll the edges to increase rigidity. If anyone tries that let us know how it goes. Thanks again John!
POI and harmonics were exactly the thing that gave me pause about buying my Magnetospeed but I got it anyway and was intent on working with this obstacle. This is the solution! What a great implementation for this product. Outstanding piece of gear! Ty!
Ahhh nice suggestion my friend! You're right, that WOULD strengthen it. I just made the 1/4" model and it works great! Thanks for watching John AND the great suggestion! shoot straight!
Thanks for idea of a mount made from aluminum but I used steel instead. I bought a 1.25" wide x 1/8" thick steel bar stock for $11.00 cdn. and cut a piece 12" long , bent it by hand and drilled two holes in one end. Then I used M-Lock screws to attached this bar directly to the underside of my Chassis forend and attached the MagnetoSpeed to the bar stock after I cut/filed off apprx. 3/4" on the chrono to allow it to be closer to the barrel. To hold it in place I initially used the supplied strap and then 2 pieces of Gorrrilla black tape wrapped around bar stock and the sides of the MagnetoSpeed. In the end the MagnetoSpeed is attached very very solid to Chassis and next to no vibrations all for approx. $3.67 plus labour. Very easy to install and remove. 😀
How about a second plate (flat) to attach to the bottom (like the wood one)? Sandwich them both together at the back mount plus a pair of vertical bolts just behind the MagnetoSpeed to clamp the front. Use jam nuts and washers to give the vertical bolts rigidity and the V3 should stabilize.
That's a really good idea! The sad part is that I'm going to get my Garmin in the next week or so, so the poor MS will be relegated to the shelf! Thanks for watching my friend!
Great content ! Like you mentioned, the pocket book is limited for some of us. I'd rather spend the money elsewhere and if I can fab this I'm ahead, elsewhere. Thanks.
Hey Matt! Thanks for the kind words and hope it saves you some money. I built another version with 1/4" thick aluminum and it's even sturdier than this one...Just remember to use a torch to heat that thicker aluminum up before you bend it or it could break on you. Thanks for watching my friend...Shoot Straight!
That's a fantastic idea. I have the Wiser and its the latest generation. I am doing something wrong with it, because it didn't pick up any shots so I took it off until I could figure out what is mounted incorrectly. Wish I'd found this prior to purchasing. If there isn't much difference between the two mountings I wouldn't be concerned. The main reason for differences could very well be that the chrono is acting like a tuner on the end of the barrel and causing a shift in harmonics causing a slight speed increase.
Hi P Stewart! Yeah, even though this thing "whips" a little, I've had no difference between my readings and my buddy's Lab Radar. Thanks for watching my friend!
Great idea very informative video thanks Just ordered the arca rail So you’d recommend slight thicker 1/4 steel So that’s 6mm to stop the whip Ps every one has a draw with 10k”s bolt in screws in 😂
Hi Shootit! I would recommend the thicker bar...And, if you have the means (router with the right bit or a cnc), I'd rout a groove so the magneetospeed stays straight on the rail. But it's worked well for me as is so far. Thanks for watching my friend!
Thanks Jesper! Just created another item that should save us between $30 and $300 on a phone scope mount. I'm just trying to spend my money where it makes sense. Thanks for watching and the kind words my friend!
Steel elastic modulus is 29,000,000, Alum. is 10,000,000. Make it out of steel same dimensions and it will be ~3X stiffer. Dip the construction, except for mating points, in the goop used for making rubber coated handles (Plasti-Dip), to provide damping of residual vibrations.
@@jaredhontz8895 Hi Jared...It was a pain to bend, but just use a torch and go slow. Also need to get longer screws (about 1/8" longer) to tighten onto the arca rail, but I like it much better. Thanks for watching!
Those look like M-Lok slots on the sides of the hand guard. There is no rule that the Magnetospeed needs to be underneath the barrel. It could be to the side. How about: an M-Lok picatinny rail attached to the left (or right side); an inexpensive 1" QD scope mount; and a short piece of 1" OD metal tubing/conduit to extend near the end of the barrel. I think a piece of pipe/tubing/conduit would vibrate far less than the aluminum bar stock. It will probably cost slightly more than $20, but definitely under $40. I'm also looking at a cantilever version of an M-Lok Picatinny rail, but I don't think it will be long enough for the Magnetospeed to reach the end of the barrel.
what happened at he range with the 1/4" flat bar ? on another note LabRadar is coming out with a LX model which according to reviews so far is superior to the Xero but then again the LX is made in Canada and the Xero is made in the Taiwan I think. .
Hi User! I did make a 1/4" version but never did a review on it. Worked well until I bought the xero, which I really do like a lot. Will be interesting to see the LabRadar model and I'm sure it will be very good, just not sure how many people will jump from the xero to LR, but we'll see. Thanks for watching my friend!
Hi Glenn! I got sidetracked and didn't update the design. This one works great for me so I've stuck with it. If I ever clean up my garage (not today at 101 degrees outside) I'll probably use that thicker bar that I do have. I'll post an update then. Thanks for watching my friend!
Hi Anthony! This allows me to shoot groups without the magneetospeed interfering with barrel harmonics, thereby saving me ammo. Thanks for watching my friend!
What rifle is that? I have a Savage Elite Precision in 338 LM and I was looking for something along these lines when I came across this video. Great idea though. I'm going to take it and run with it.
HI Brett! The rifle has changed since this video as I've bought a new stock from Manners. But, the rifle in the video is an Impact Precision Action (737R with Trigger Tech Diamond Trigger); a Preferred Barrel Blanks barrel in 6.5 Creedmoor 1:8 twist; a MDT ACC Chassis; a Zero Compromise scope; and an Area 419 Sidewinder muzzle brake. I have a video on the rifle as well so please look it up. Thanks for watching my friend!
Hi AZ! You'll need to get the right base plate to mount to your pic rail. I purchased an ARCA plate because that's what my rail is. Thanks for watching!
Hey BigBen...Look at this from Amazon...would probably work fine: www.amazon.com/Monstrum-Tactical-Picatinny-Keymod-Adaptor/dp/B01N2UW2KH/ref=sr_1_56?crid=4JZQYVD52JFQ&dchild=1&keywords=picatinny+clamp+mount&qid=1628542617&sprefix=picatinny+clamp%2Celectronics%2C175&sr=8-56
Hey Randall! Yeah I agree and good point. I might look at a direct connection there. I generally check the strap after every 10 shots or so, but would be nice not to have to do that. Thanks for watching and the great comment!
@@The4GunGuy Yea check out the group.. some ideas that may translate on how others did it.. but also many of us make a fiberglass or delrin rod to slide in and use as a quick reference to check and set the distance to the bullet path.. which is critical and over time its good to check it... every so often or you might get an error reading in the middle of your 50 string load development work.
Hey everyone, John Baker had a really good suggestion below...Roll the edges to increase rigidity. If anyone tries that let us know how it goes. Thanks again John!
use steel in lieu of aluminum, see my comment below.
POI and harmonics were exactly the thing that gave me pause about buying my Magnetospeed but I got it anyway and was intent on working with this obstacle. This is the solution! What a great implementation for this product. Outstanding piece of gear! Ty!
Great job on the DIY. May i suggest rolling the edges of the flats to increase rigidity.
Ahhh nice suggestion my friend! You're right, that WOULD strengthen it. I just made the 1/4" model and it works great! Thanks for watching John AND the great suggestion! shoot straight!
@@The4GunGuy How do you roll the edges? Great video and very helpful!
@@comloz I used a hand file on the edges...It's a pretty crappy job, but it does what it's supposed to do so I'm happy with it. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for idea of a mount made from aluminum but I used steel instead.
I bought a 1.25" wide x 1/8" thick steel bar stock for $11.00 cdn. and cut a piece 12" long , bent it by hand and drilled two holes in one end.
Then I used M-Lock screws to attached this bar directly to the underside of my Chassis forend and attached the MagnetoSpeed to the bar stock after I cut/filed off apprx. 3/4" on the chrono to allow it to be closer to the barrel.
To hold it in place I initially used the supplied strap and then 2 pieces of Gorrrilla black tape wrapped around bar stock and the sides of the MagnetoSpeed.
In the end the MagnetoSpeed is attached very very solid to Chassis and next to no vibrations all for approx. $3.67 plus labour.
Very easy to install and remove.
😀
Hi David! Great idea and glad it works for you. Thanks for watching my friend!
How about a second plate (flat) to attach to the bottom (like the wood one)? Sandwich them both together at the back mount plus a pair of vertical bolts just behind the MagnetoSpeed to clamp the front. Use jam nuts and washers to give the vertical bolts rigidity and the V3 should stabilize.
That's a really good idea! The sad part is that I'm going to get my Garmin in the next week or so, so the poor MS will be relegated to the shelf! Thanks for watching my friend!
Thanks for putting that out there i'm gonna use that idea
Hi Rexr! Glad it was of some use for you and thanks for watching my friend!
Great content ! Like you mentioned, the pocket book is limited for some of us. I'd rather spend the money elsewhere and if I can fab this I'm ahead, elsewhere. Thanks.
that fitting the case is cool, in building one I can keep case length in mind
Yeah, funny how that just worked out 'cause I darn sure didn't plan for it!
Dude !!!! You sir are awesome, this will save me a lot of headache
Hey Matt! Thanks for the kind words and hope it saves you some money. I built another version with 1/4" thick aluminum and it's even sturdier than this one...Just remember to use a torch to heat that thicker aluminum up before you bend it or it could break on you. Thanks for watching my friend...Shoot Straight!
That's a fantastic idea. I have the Wiser and its the latest generation. I am doing something wrong with it, because it didn't pick up any shots so I took it off until I could figure out what is mounted incorrectly. Wish I'd found this prior to purchasing. If there isn't much difference between the two mountings I wouldn't be concerned. The main reason for differences could very well be that the chrono is acting like a tuner on the end of the barrel and causing a shift in harmonics causing a slight speed increase.
Hi P Stewart! Yeah, even though this thing "whips" a little, I've had no difference between my readings and my buddy's Lab Radar. Thanks for watching my friend!
Great idea very informative video thanks
Just ordered the arca rail
So you’d recommend slight thicker 1/4 steel
So that’s 6mm to stop the whip
Ps every one has a draw with 10k”s bolt in screws in 😂
Hi Shootit! I would recommend the thicker bar...And, if you have the means (router with the right bit or a cnc), I'd rout a groove so the magneetospeed stays straight on the rail. But it's worked well for me as is so far. Thanks for watching my friend!
I need to make something like that. You can always Tig weld some support so it’s stiff. Thanks for the idea.
Hey Bryan! Yeah I was thinking about that as well...guess I know what my next purchase is! Thanks for watching and Shoot Straight!
Just great. Thank you 👍😊
Thanks Jesper! Just created another item that should save us between $30 and $300 on a phone scope mount. I'm just trying to spend my money where it makes sense. Thanks for watching and the kind words my friend!
Thanks. J.
Steel elastic modulus is 29,000,000, Alum. is 10,000,000. Make it out of steel same dimensions and it will be ~3X stiffer. Dip the construction, except for mating points, in the goop used for making rubber coated handles (Plasti-Dip), to provide damping of residual vibrations.
Great suggestion Clay! Thanks for watching my friend!
I ordered 1/4" bar today and will update with the new build in about a week.
How did the 1/4" bar work for vibration damping?
@@jaredhontz8895 Hi Jared...It was a pain to bend, but just use a torch and go slow. Also need to get longer screws (about 1/8" longer) to tighten onto the arca rail, but I like it much better. Thanks for watching!
@@The4GunGuy thank you very much sir.
Those look like M-Lok slots on the sides of the hand guard. There is no rule that the Magnetospeed needs to be underneath the barrel. It could be to the side. How about: an M-Lok picatinny rail attached to the left (or right side); an inexpensive 1" QD scope mount; and a short piece of 1" OD metal tubing/conduit to extend near the end of the barrel. I think a piece of pipe/tubing/conduit would vibrate far less than the aluminum bar stock. It will probably cost slightly more than $20, but definitely under $40.
I'm also looking at a cantilever version of an M-Lok Picatinny rail, but I don't think it will be long enough for the Magnetospeed to reach the end of the barrel.
Hi T C! Sounds like a good design...Build it! If you don't mind, I might try it myself and post an update here...OK?
@@The4GunGuy That would be great. I'll keep you posted on what I come up with. My Magnetospeed is arriving in the mail today.
Thx
No problem Knighthawk6! Glad you enjoyed it my friend!
Cast aluminum pipe with a couple pipe fittings with turn nobs?
even a heavy high pressure PVC pipe
Bolt it to any standard arca clamp or pic clamp
Hey Aaron! Good suggestions and that's why I like the members of my channel...Always coming up with other ways! Thanks for watching my friend!
@@The4GunGuy always
what happened at he range with the 1/4" flat bar ?
on another note LabRadar is coming out with a LX model which according to reviews so far is superior to the Xero but then again the LX is made in Canada and the Xero is made in the Taiwan I think. .
Hi User! I did make a 1/4" version but never did a review on it. Worked well until I bought the xero, which I really do like a lot. Will be interesting to see the LabRadar model and I'm sure it will be very good, just not sure how many people will jump from the xero to LR, but we'll see. Thanks for watching my friend!
@@The4GunGuy google Ryan Cheney from Texas
great review and great gun man, have you been or heard about gunspot? they still got some great deals going on especially on there auctions.
Thanks William! I hadn't heard of them but will see what it's all about here shortly. Thanks for the tip and for your kind words my friend!
Hi, did you every redesign your "rod/bar" and if so, did you make a video about it? Thanks
Hi Glenn! I got sidetracked and didn't update the design. This one works great for me so I've stuck with it. If I ever clean up my garage (not today at 101 degrees outside) I'll probably use that thicker bar that I do have. I'll post an update then. Thanks for watching my friend!
Since the magnetospeed is now off the barrel, can you shoot groups or would you still recommend doing any load development without it.
Hi Anthony! This allows me to shoot groups without the magneetospeed interfering with barrel harmonics, thereby saving me ammo. Thanks for watching my friend!
What rifle is that? I have a Savage Elite Precision in 338 LM and I was looking for something along these lines when I came across this video.
Great idea though. I'm going to take it and run with it.
HI Brett! The rifle has changed since this video as I've bought a new stock from Manners. But, the rifle in the video is an Impact Precision Action (737R with Trigger Tech Diamond Trigger); a Preferred Barrel Blanks barrel in 6.5 Creedmoor 1:8 twist; a MDT ACC Chassis; a Zero Compromise scope; and an Area 419 Sidewinder muzzle brake. I have a video on the rifle as well so please look it up. Thanks for watching my friend!
How does this work with a 28 inch proof research barrel sitting in a McMillan stock with a 2 inch pic rail on the front for a bipod?
Hi AZ! You'll need to get the right base plate to mount to your pic rail. I purchased an ARCA plate because that's what my rail is. Thanks for watching!
Awesome….Do you think there would be a way to make it attach to a picatinny rail?
Hey BigBen...Look at this from Amazon...would probably work fine:
www.amazon.com/Monstrum-Tactical-Picatinny-Keymod-Adaptor/dp/B01N2UW2KH/ref=sr_1_56?crid=4JZQYVD52JFQ&dchild=1&keywords=picatinny+clamp+mount&qid=1628542617&sprefix=picatinny+clamp%2Celectronics%2C175&sr=8-56
You really do not want to use the strap... over time it will loosen.. you want a direct connection more rigid
Hey Randall! Yeah I agree and good point. I might look at a direct connection there. I generally check the strap after every 10 shots or so, but would be nice not to have to do that. Thanks for watching and the great comment!
@@The4GunGuy Yea check out the group.. some ideas that may translate on how others did it.. but also many of us make a fiberglass or delrin rod to slide in and use as a quick reference to check and set the distance to the bullet path.. which is critical and over time its good to check it... every so often or you might get an error reading in the middle of your 50 string load development work.
Are you a member of the Magnetospeed users group on facebook? Check it out: m.facebook.com/groups/1938325769769092?group_view_referrer=search