Noob guy to Colorado (I am from So Cal) so I am going to give this video a shot on my sprinkler system. Appreciate the easy how to. The service that did the winterize when we bought the house last Fall, wants $380 to do this. I will take my chances. THANK YOU
I'm from Colorado too, I got a small landscaping business, I can tell you that the price usually is $50-70 fo the first 6 zones and usually $5-10 extra per zone every extra zone, dont let people scam you, even big big professional and insured companies charge at maximum the double of that, but $380 is just too much unless you have like almost 25 zones. Like and extra to let you know and more people, you doesn't need to be a huge compressor with a huge engine, you only need 60PSI or less or your pipes can get damaged and if the tank is small just repeit the process until it's done, some people just to sell or get you calling every year will tell you that you need a huge compressor to get it done but it is a lie, DON'T LET PEOPLE SCAM YOU! always look for info.
I have always seen that it says to keep it under 35 PSI when you have a backflow preventer so it doesn't damage it. I've also seen to turn the blue handle valves at a 45 degree angle as well.
@@JTGK13 A quick search of the web reveals "The ideal pressure for blowing out a sprinkler system is between 40 and 80 pounds per square inch (psi), but the maximum pressure depends on the type of pipe: Rigid PVC pipe: The maximum pressure is 80 psi. Polyethylene pipe: The maximum pressure is 50 psi. "
@@ThomasCardall Thanks for watching! I agree with you about n the cost benefit analysis. Good luck in your sprinkler winterizing efforts. Please Subscribe!
Ive been told numerous times to not blow air thru the backflow. Your hose fitting should be on the downstream side of it. Once the lines have been serviced, disconnect the backflow and take it in the house.
@@kkevinj1 More power to you if you want to disconnect the backflow preventer every year and have to reinstall it every year. Adding back pipe-dope or teflon tape each time and making sure it is leak free.
@@kkevinj1 That is a good idea. Though then you would have two open pipes that would collect rain/snow all winter long. Could cap them, but then you would not have good air flow which could lead to frozen pipes. The fake rock like I have would cover the pipes while allowing them to be open, but with the fake rock, the entire back flow preventer is covered and has an insulation bag as well. So really, I think it comes down to personal preference and time you want to dedicate.
@@davegould4940 A quick search of the web reveals "The ideal pressure for blowing out a sprinkler system is between 40 and 80 pounds per square inch (psi), but the maximum pressure depends on the type of pipe: Rigid PVC pipe: The maximum pressure is 80 psi. Polyethylene pipe: The maximum pressure is 50 psi. "
40 is sufficient. The higher the pressure the more risk of damaged lines. Even if your water pressure is 70 or 80, air has more viscosity and will travel through the system more violently.
@@fslater102 Though, depending on your tanks size, even if it starts out at 60, and you start draining, the PSI will drop quickly. So depends on the compressor. In mine, if I start out at 40, that’s would not be enough.
@@davidcrowell5280 if you have a connection to do so, but most back flows I have see have the blow out connection at the water in side. As long as you stay in the 60 to 40 psi range, you should be just fine.
@@DIYBRY I’ve heard this too. I like how you opened the valve first though, I think that’s probably an important step to avoid excessive pressure within the back flow preventer. Personally I haven’t had any damage from winter freezes except 1 head. So I think any air in the system to move any water out will be helpful.
@@DIYBRY at the end when you open up the little valves to keep the airflow moving throughout winter. The bigger valves should be open as well right? Otherwise, you’re only letting air pass through a very small section between the two valves?
@@edwinmyers900 Yes. The actual sprinkler values (or zones) I leave those open. You can leave the "big" values on the back flow preventer open. The value that goes to the city should have a bleeder outlet on it, so it will drip the water out of the line that comes from the city. So, if you want to leave the big values open, that would be okay. More importantly would be insulating that backflow preventer. Get one that will fit yours: amzn.to/3Usm9cn
I followed this video exactly and I get no air blowing out of the sprinkler heads? I have an 8 gallon 4cfm compressor, hook it up and open the valve to zone and nothing?
Only one zone open at a time? Is the value the compressor is hooked to open, then one on the back flow preventer? When is the last time you used your sprinklers.
@@DIYBRY I ran the sprinklers right before trying to blow them out. I only had 1 zone open and connected the compressor to a connection after the back flow preventer. I thought the BFP was stopping the compressed air but not after I connected it after the BFL.
@@DIYBRY Yes the connection port is definitely open. The only thing I can think could be happening is the compressed air is escaping through the back flow valve or the compressor just doesn't have enough cfm to push the water through the lines.
Are you in highlands ranch, CO? That looks like a typical little backyard in highlands ranch! We live in Centennial Colorado and thanks for the video…we’re doing our system for the first time by ourselves.
@@DPRyan-vd5pp Thanks for watching! No, I am not in Colorado. Best of luck in winterizing your system this year. Hopefully this video helps. Subscribe! 😉
@@DIYBRY What percent of systems you think use non-flexible field conduit of any kind? Maybe 2 or 3%? Even in a system using Rigid PVC, try opening an air valve going in a pipe with 0 psi, to 80 psi and let me know what happens to the connections and sprinkler heads. Maybe that could be your next video. Lets just say on the topic of max air in a sprinkler system blow out, we agree to disagree
@@fslater102 if you had a 10 or 20 gallon air compressor that could maintain a 40 psi for a decent amount of time. Enough to drain the whole system, then that would be awesome. I have a 3 gallon it’s not ideal but there’s no possible way it could maintain 40 psi for more than like three seconds. You also have to remember how long these sprinkler lines are. It’s not putting 60 psi outward force through the length of the tube all at the start. It never would even get that high anyways because the water is going to be forced out of the other end. The sprinkler lines are quite long. One of mine is over 100 feet. My little 3 gallon air compressor is not going to put enough pressure in the lines to do any damage even if I start out at 80 psi because by the time that it reaches the place in the line where the water is, it’s already lost most of that pressure just to get to the end of the line in the first place. Bottom line is it all comes down to which kind of air compressor you have.
Just a note from a professional here. 80 CFM is the recommended minimum to winterize a sprinkler system. Your compressor in your garage can push 3CFM. Because of how much thinner air is than water you need a significant volume of air to remove water from the system. When you blow out with a small air compressor you are only pushing a small amount of water out of the lines. It may be enough to prevent freeze damage but it is not likely.
You only need huge amounts of air (CFM) if you are pushing water uphill. On a flat or downhill path to the sprinklers, gravity will do most of the work and lower CFM will work fine.
@@NervusEnergy@NervusEnergy Every one of these DIY videos on sprinklers I have seen always has some "Pro" come into the comments, telling everyone they need a pro to do it correctly. I wonder why. Could it be they are afraid they will lose business from their over priced services?
@@chrisw.6060I mean unless you're a national franchise I don't think that would be the concern here. Probably just being overly cautious based on experience. When you work in a field and experience an issue that arises 1% of the time, it's still a notable thing to remind customers of if you see a potential mishap.
This is definitely not my state we have drains at base of the above ground breaker so the line drains and a master valve that shuts water from the whole system and a drain. We leave the drain plugs on the breaker wide open so the bowl dosnt bust some even take the top off as preventive and we rape the pipes and definitely don’t use iron pipes for sprinklers. They stop doing that in early 80’s around here. And we do same for inground breakers as well. We also bury lines 18 inch’s or lower below the freeze line. Iv never seen or heard of anyone using a compressor to clear the lines. Best way is just to run the system and open the drains and cut the system off it forces a back flow that drains the lines and since there are drains below the breaker it simply flushes the system
Why did you have to cut the water off, you closed the ball valve on the preventer, why isnt that good enough?? So you closed 2 valves, just wondering why one isnt enough
Noob guy to Colorado (I am from So Cal) so I am going to give this video a shot on my sprinkler system. Appreciate the easy how to. The service that did the winterize when we bought the house last Fall, wants $380 to do this. I will take my chances.
THANK YOU
@@stiksandstones Hope you have good result! Thanks for watching! Subscribe!
I'm from Colorado too, I got a small landscaping business, I can tell you that the price usually is $50-70 fo the first 6 zones and usually $5-10 extra per zone every extra zone, dont let people scam you, even big big professional and insured companies charge at maximum the double of that, but $380 is just too much unless you have like almost 25 zones.
Like and extra to let you know and more people, you doesn't need to be a huge compressor with a huge engine, you only need 60PSI or less or your pipes can get damaged and if the tank is small just repeit the process until it's done, some people just to sell or get you calling every year will tell you that you need a huge compressor to get it done but it is a lie, DON'T LET PEOPLE SCAM YOU! always look for info.
@@Nidalover Could by a nice air compressor for that cost.
Best winterization video I found so far! Just a quick question. How much PSI is safe for the sprinkler system when doing winterization?
@@weihsinchen3831 Thanks so much. 40-80 PSI. I would not exceed 80. Please like a subscribe :)
I have always seen that it says to keep it under 35 PSI when you have a backflow preventer so it doesn't damage it. I've also seen to turn the blue handle valves at a 45 degree angle as well.
@@JTGK13 A quick search of the web reveals "The ideal pressure for blowing out a sprinkler system is between 40 and 80 pounds per square inch (psi), but the maximum pressure depends on the type of pipe:
Rigid PVC pipe: The maximum pressure is 80 psi.
Polyethylene pipe: The maximum pressure is 50 psi.
"
Great video. Cost from my guy is $90 to blow it out. Cost for a 3 gallon compressor is $70. No brainer.
@@ThomasCardall Thanks for watching! I agree with you about n the cost benefit analysis. Good luck in your sprinkler winterizing efforts. Please Subscribe!
Ive been told numerous times to not blow air thru the backflow. Your hose fitting should be on the downstream side of it. Once the lines have been serviced, disconnect the backflow and take it in the house.
Interesting 🤔
@@DIYBRY He is right, I have heard that 4 times today lol could damage it
@@kkevinj1 More power to you if you want to disconnect the backflow preventer every year and have to reinstall it every year. Adding back pipe-dope or teflon tape each time and making sure it is leak free.
@@DIYBRY 2 unions🙂
@@kkevinj1 That is a good idea. Though then you would have two open pipes that would collect rain/snow all winter long. Could cap them, but then you would not have good air flow which could lead to frozen pipes. The fake rock like I have would cover the pipes while allowing them to be open, but with the fake rock, the entire back flow preventer is covered and has an insulation bag as well. So really, I think it comes down to personal preference and time you want to dedicate.
If one drains and turns off the backflow and opens all the zones is blowing out the lines even necessary?
@@TDace25 There will still be water in the lines if you don’t blow it out. The water can freeze, expand, and potentially break your lines.
@ Thanks. Used my compressor to do this today and was really easy.
@ Sweet! Glad to hear it. Subscribe 😎
@@DIYBRY Subbed
@ Bodacious!
How many psi you set your regulator to?
@@davegould4940 A quick search of the web reveals "The ideal pressure for blowing out a sprinkler system is between 40 and 80 pounds per square inch (psi), but the maximum pressure depends on the type of pipe:
Rigid PVC pipe: The maximum pressure is 80 psi.
Polyethylene pipe: The maximum pressure is 50 psi.
"
40 is sufficient. The higher the pressure the more risk of damaged lines. Even if your water pressure is 70 or 80, air has more viscosity and will travel through the system more violently.
@@fslater102 Though, depending on your tanks size, even if it starts out at 60, and you start draining, the PSI will drop quickly. So depends on the compressor. In mine, if I start out at 40, that’s would not be enough.
1/4" or 3/8" air hose?
I believe you should blow it out from the output side of the backflow preventer to avoid damage to the backflow valve. Am I wrong ??
@@davidcrowell5280 if you have a connection to do so, but most back flows I have see have the blow out connection at the water in side. As long as you stay in the 60 to 40 psi range, you should be just fine.
@@DIYBRY I’ve heard this too. I like how you opened the valve first though, I think that’s probably an important step to avoid excessive pressure within the back flow preventer. Personally I haven’t had any damage from winter freezes except 1 head. So I think any air in the system to move any water out will be helpful.
@@asoggyburger479 Less water in the lines, less chance of the water freezing 😉
@@DIYBRY Or worst case, plenty of room to expand without damaging the pipes lol
@ Indeed!
Why not open the other valves on either side of the vacuum breaker as well?
@@edwinmyers900 At which part of the process are your referring?
@@DIYBRY at the end when you open up the little valves to keep the airflow moving throughout winter. The bigger valves should be open as well right? Otherwise, you’re only letting air pass through a very small section between the two valves?
@@edwinmyers900 Yes. The actual sprinkler values (or zones) I leave those open. You can leave the "big" values on the back flow preventer open. The value that goes to the city should have a bleeder outlet on it, so it will drip the water out of the line that comes from the city. So, if you want to leave the big values open, that would be okay. More importantly would be insulating that backflow preventer. Get one that will fit yours: amzn.to/3Usm9cn
@@DIYBRY Awesome! I appreciate the explanation. Great video. Definitely the best one I found.
@@edwinmyers900 I appreciate that. Glad to help. Please Subscribe! 😎
Very helpful thanks!
Glad to help! Subscribe! 😉
I followed this video exactly and I get no air blowing out of the sprinkler heads? I have an 8 gallon 4cfm compressor, hook it up and open the valve to zone and nothing?
Only one zone open at a time? Is the value the compressor is hooked to open, then one on the back flow preventer? When is the last time you used your sprinklers.
@@DIYBRY I ran the sprinklers right before trying to blow them out. I only had 1 zone open and connected the compressor to a connection after the back flow preventer. I thought the BFP was stopping the compressed air but not after I connected it after the BFL.
@@slimpickens8589 And the valve you have your compressor connected to is open?
@@DIYBRY Yes the connection port is definitely open. The only thing I can think could be happening is the compressed air is escaping through the back flow valve or the compressor just doesn't have enough cfm to push the water through the lines.
@@slimpickens8589 Hard to say since I cannot see.
Tip: If waiting for the air compressor is the longest part of the process, turn it on first, then go deal with the valves and key and whatnot.
@@mistergabrieljensen Didn’t want the compressor roaring in the background while I talked about the other parts of the process.
Are you in highlands ranch, CO? That looks like a typical little backyard in highlands ranch! We live in Centennial Colorado and thanks for the video…we’re doing our system for the first time by ourselves.
@@DPRyan-vd5pp Thanks for watching! No, I am not in Colorado. Best of luck in winterizing your system this year. Hopefully this video helps. Subscribe! 😉
Your putting 70psi of air in your sprinkler lines?
@@fslater102 Polyethylene pipe: The maximum pressure is 50 psi.
Rigid PVC pipe: The maximum pressure is 80 psi.
@@DIYBRY What percent of systems you think use non-flexible field conduit of any kind? Maybe 2 or 3%? Even in a system using Rigid PVC, try opening an air valve going in a pipe with 0 psi, to 80 psi and let me know what happens to the connections and sprinkler heads. Maybe that could be your next video.
Lets just say on the topic of max air in a sprinkler system blow out, we agree to disagree
@@fslater102 if you had a 10 or 20 gallon air compressor that could maintain a 40 psi for a decent amount of time. Enough to drain the whole system, then that would be awesome. I have a 3 gallon it’s not ideal but there’s no possible way it could maintain 40 psi for more than like three seconds. You also have to remember how long these sprinkler lines are. It’s not putting 60 psi outward force through the length of the tube all at the start. It never would even get that high anyways because the water is going to be forced out of the other end. The sprinkler lines are quite long. One of mine is over 100 feet. My little 3 gallon air compressor is not going to put enough pressure in the lines to do any damage even if I start out at 80 psi because by the time that it reaches the place in the line where the water is, it’s already lost most of that pressure just to get to the end of the line in the first place. Bottom line is it all comes down to which kind of air compressor you have.
Just a note from a professional here. 80 CFM is the recommended minimum to winterize a sprinkler system. Your compressor in your garage can push 3CFM. Because of how much thinner air is than water you need a significant volume of air to remove water from the system. When you blow out with a small air compressor you are only pushing a small amount of water out of the lines. It may be enough to prevent freeze damage but it is not likely.
Been doing this for years now. Never had an issue. But yes, a bigger compressor would be ideal.
You only need huge amounts of air (CFM) if you are pushing water uphill. On a flat or downhill path to the sprinklers, gravity will do most of the work and lower CFM will work fine.
@@NervusEnergy@NervusEnergy Every one of these DIY videos on sprinklers I have seen always has some "Pro" come into the comments, telling everyone they need a pro to do it correctly. I wonder why. Could it be they are afraid they will lose business from their over priced services?
@@NervusEnergyI have a slight incline uphill for about 10 feet. Am I still good to DIY this on a 150 psi 6 gallon air compressor?
@@chrisw.6060I mean unless you're a national franchise I don't think that would be the concern here. Probably just being overly cautious based on experience. When you work in a field and experience an issue that arises 1% of the time, it's still a notable thing to remind customers of if you see a potential mishap.
You may want to add max air pressure before someone blows heads off their system
This is definitely not my state we have drains at base of the above ground breaker so the line drains and a master valve that shuts water from the whole system and a drain. We leave the drain plugs on the breaker wide open so the bowl dosnt bust some even take the top off as preventive and we rape the pipes and definitely don’t use iron pipes for sprinklers. They stop doing that in early 80’s around here. And we do same for inground breakers as well. We also bury lines 18 inch’s or lower below the freeze line. Iv never seen or heard of anyone using a compressor to clear the lines. Best way is just to run the system and open the drains and cut the system off it forces a back flow that drains the lines and since there are drains below the breaker it simply flushes the system
So what’s your state?
"That's what she said" Hahahaha!
@@rappmasterdugg6825 I try to throw it in all my videos 😉
Why did you have to cut the water off, you closed the ball valve on the preventer, why isnt that good enough?? So you closed 2 valves, just wondering why one isnt enough
From the city? All to prevent water in the lines on my property from freezing.
@@DIYBRY Oh, ur house water is on separate line/meter? I tee in the water line coming in the house, cant shut mine off lol
That's what she said! lol
😎 thanks for watching! Subscribe!
i had to do a double take on the comment of "THAT'S WHAT SHE SAID" lmfao!!!
@@leeperreault8362 I throw that in my video my videos from time too time.
Thats what she said lmao
The problem with all these youtube videos is none of the hardware matches whatever I have. I have a hard time following
@@DougVandegrift What do you have?
Good God mow your lawn..
It had just rained, we were out of town for a week, my grass grows crazy fast and come on, it’s not that long.
It's really not...guess this person likes having a putting green for a lawn