I wanted to add a few points here on the process, some clarifications, and summarize a lot of the common questions I got. 1) You ABSOLUTLEY can just dig a hole slightly bigger than the root ball, pop the tree in, cover, water, and mulch and call it a day. This is how most people plant trees and it works! I am trying this method because it should speed up the initial root growth and I am curious! 2) It is called a multiyear hole because in an ideal world you would spend 2+ years amending and preparing soil to be perfect. This means amending, cover cropping, mulching, and cycling organic matter into the soil. By following the procedure I show in the video you are shortcutting that time by forcing the soil to be as if it was amended for years. This makes it a multiyear hole as it saves you multiple years of working the soil before planting. 3) If you have true CLAY soil like +70% clay than this method might not be great for you. The surrounding water will drain into the hole you dug and can lead to root rot. If you have some sand and silt with your clay, like I do, then it should be able to drain just fine. There is also the caveat of climate, in San Diego we average 10-12 inches of rain a year so drowning roots is really a non-issue for me! 4) I like to test old rules and see if they apply to me. Many recommendations that people take as fact are based on regional climate, soil, and many other factors. A recommendation that has come up a lot recently is to NEVER put organic matter like compost in the ground as it can cause rotting. I personally disagree, as you test soil over the years you will see organic matter increase year after year at depth. This can even happen in a no-till setting as things like worms dig up and down drawing organic matter through the soil layers and also pooping. Roots that decompose at depth also become organic matter. Double digging involves adding compost at depth and has been practiced for 100s of years with massive production alongside it. It is a all about the details, if you add a straight pile of compost at the bottom and don't mix it and put roots on top of that then it yes it may cause root rot. If you blend it with some topsoil before placing your roots then the odds of root rot decrease dramatically. It is all about the details! 5) I love your questions and I will do the best to answer as many as I can! Don't be afraid to ask questions and challenge me because I truly enjoy the discussion it creates and I won't be right about everything!
These are all good points! It is certainly different to add well-rotted compost to a hole vs putting in kitchen scraps or (as one UA-camr did) a *chicken*!!!! One is great for roots the other is just a pile of rotting junk. A key point is that breaking down that organic matter robs nitrogen, so if it’s not already done rotting, it’s going to rob your roots, not support them.
It doesn't make the hater comments easier, but the best scientists always get at least a little heat. I appreciate you testing things like this, it's the best part about the channel tbh. If we aren't trying new things and showing the data to people, then wtf are we even doing.
So interesting to watch. I grew up in a family that was forever planting trees. Many wind shelters. I was always told that yes the depth is important but making the hole wider was paramount. My Mom was an avid gardener. It will be lovely to watch the progress of your fruit trees. Thank you for sharing this ❤❤❤
Completely agree on your point about width. So many people underestimate how much of a trees roots grow in the shallow soil. (In most environments) when you see a tree that's been ripped out of the ground by a storm, they typically only have a handful of deep tap roots. Everything else is shallow to take advantage of as much rain water as possible.
I think the full-size notebook was a bit of a flex to this recent college grad; we only had the 1/2 sized books on campus :( I kinda want that book now.
@@dylanlarose9171 there are so many options. I briefly did geology supply sales and they were part of my brand portfolio and it was so cool all the different types. I like the tiny green ones and the spiral bound ones a lot.
I just planted a cherry tree this morning in my NorCal 10a garden! I didn't think I could grow cherries here (too warm) but this little Royal Crimson cherry only needs 200-300 hours of chill and is self-fruiting. It's a brand new cultivar and I can't wait to get some fruit! My pear and apple both fruited on the second year so we'll see. Sadly I just dug a plain hole.
I try not to look at growing zones to much. I planted peanuts last year in a zone 6 when they are recommended at 8 to 11. They grew great and even if they didnt they should adapt overtime as long as I use seeds from last years crop for the next year.
Your plain hole is best. If you have any clay, heavily amending the soil is a big mistake. Start top down soil improvement (slow release organic fertilizer, compost, organic mulch) and your tree will be fine.
It doesn't make the hater comments easier, but the best scientists always get at least a little heat. I appreciate you testing things like this, it's the best part about the channel tbh. If we aren't trying new things and showing the data to people, then wtf are we even doing.
I also learned that it is very important to heavily prune bare-root trees when planting them because when they were torn out of the earth they were growing in, a large part of the root was torn off as well. So the root system that is left is not large enough to support the canopy above it anymore, hence the need to severely prune the canopy. It made a lot of sense to me.
Old wives tale! Think of it this way, plant needs energy to rebuild itself so now you hack off its ability to gather that energy? Almost the worst thing you can do!
@@dac7046 No, you don't hack off its energy, you only cut off enough of the canopy so the newly cut and lessened roots can support it.Then they (roots and canopy) can work in equal balance again so both grow together. It's all about proper balance (which was interfered with when ripping off part of the roots).
A lady who had much more plant experience than myself once warned me about digging when the ground was too wet, like what you were saying. She said doing so would create a basin that wouldn’t drain because of the heavy clay soil we have in NE Ohio.
So when I do a tree which I should be planning a tree soon, I don’t remember who told me if it was a landscaper or someone but it works when I plan a fruit tree or any tree flower tree in the hole I make very large I also put a 2 inch PVC pipe in there to come all the way up from the root to the top and as you put your soil and your compost and whatever mold or whatever you want When you want to water that tree, you can water directly into the PVC pipe and it goes down to the roof now I have done this with a flowering tree before the orchid flower and that plant where that tree grew so fast and it was beautiful until we got a freeze real bad here in Texas But that concept of putting a PVC pipe in with your bearing the soil in and to feed it just feed directly to the pipe it works. I’m telling you it works. I don’t know if you’ve ever done that before if you heard it but I’ve done it. I haven’t planted trees in so long, but I’m getting ready to plant a crabapple and I will try this method with the crabapple.
I know it's a method people have mentioned before but it seems to be less recommended lately. I think it can be a great move depending on the soil and setup. The issues I've heard is that it focuses the water and nutrients in the wrong space. Most of the roots are on the surface of the soil out to a few feet rather than down near the base.
You should watch some of Gary matsuoka's UA-cam videos on 'ideal soil'. He says no compost or organic matter in the hole (peat is an exception). As it's decomposing, it will use up all the oxygen and cause roots to die or rot. Even most resources say not to amend the soil for trees as they tend to not want to grow outwards. If you have clay soil, you want to amend with anything that allows for drainage or aeration. Sand, perlite, pumice, lava rocks, etc. I think holes amended with compost are why do many avocado trees die.
I have heard this from Gary before, I couldn't recall if that was his advice for containers or just generally speaking. In this case I am taking the advice of the orchard master at UCSC who has been tending outdoors fruit trees for 30+ years. With things like the suggestions against compost I want to test it myself because every soil profile and climate will react differently!
@@jacquesinthegarden I've watched almost all of Gary's videos. I think his advice for not mixing in organic matter is for both in pot and in ground. He said that for annuals, it would probably be ok since the soil isn't going to go anaerobic in that timeframe. For perennials , it can kill them. If the organic matter is low enough, the plant can eventually recover when the organic matter decomposes low enough. He's also mentioned that the UC system has got it all wrong and they are the ones that teach the nurseries. I live in San Diego so I'm able to get free compost from the landfill. My beds with heavy compost (40%) go anaerobic when I over water or when it rains a lot. The roots never go deeper than 1 foot so I believe what he is saying. Sometimes I dig down and it really thick and stinky. I've never measured but I think the roots go about 8 inches deep. My pepper plants always fall over because the compost makes the soil too fluffy and the roots don't go deep enough. I bought 7 avocado trees and 10 stonefruit within the last 7 months. If all my trees stay alive in the next few years, especially the avocados, I think Gary is on to something. I also like the idea that the mineral based soil does not drop soil level every year. Only the compost sitting on top drops but not the mineral soil level. Some of my beds have dropped 6 inches in 2-3 years.
@@geeyoupee I totally agree that mineral based soils are fantastic for containers as you will not get the settling. I think in terms of compost there is a lot of nuance there as no two composts are created equally. I found that the Miramar compost is actually way to powdered and fine grained. This has caused me issues in the past even for annual beds as there is no air movement and it becomes a matted soggy anerobic layer. I now produce a lot of my own compost and get additional compost from SPV Soils up in Escondido which has much great diversity in the mix and also in the grain size. Since I've started using my own and their compost I haven't noticed any of those issues anymore. There of course can be TOO much compost which can lead to other issues like way too much phosphorus. When it comes to applying compost anywhere else in the garden I use as mulch, not blended into the subsoil. By apply a thin layer every year of every major growth cycle I slowly build up the soil and avoid that over fluff and anerobic problem!
@@jacquesinthegarden I agree, the Miramar compost is very fine. I don't think it's an issue if you put an inch thick on top of the soil as it will be able to breath as you suggested. Even if the compost has bigger texture, I think it will eventually decompose into smaller pieces and reduce airflow. This probably isn't an issue with high draining/ breathing soils such as sandy loam but can probably determental for clay soils. When my retaining walls were made, the contractors filled them with subsoil clay so I had to discard a bunch and make my own "potting mix"which is why I missed in so much compost. I also bought a bag of spvs compost recently but it was pretty fine too. Maybe it was the bag I got. They have cheap pumice if you are ever looking for a cu yard. Another problem with the settling of the potting soil is that it compacts the roots and will bring the root flare of plants lower in the pots. Root compaction was one of chili chumps issues in his giant pepper plant. Nurseries tend to top of the soil in their pots. When I planted a bunch of trees this year, most of them had adventitious roots that I had to cut off because they were planted 4-6 inches too deep. Mineral soils can be really heavy though, this can be an issue in pots. It can be a good thing if you need a really stable pot such as dragon fruit pot. Richard from grafting dragon fruit has recently started moving to a mineral mix. You learn new things in gardening all the time. I feel a lot of information aren't science backed. I thought I would share my thoughts in case you wanted to look into it. I'm glad I found Gary's videos before I planted my 15 trees.
Last year, I grew 23 apple, 17 pear, and 3 plum trees from seed. I planted 2 of the plums along with 3 service berries. I'll be picking out my healthiest 2 pears and apples to plant this fall. I also have 4 Pawpaw trees I started from seed last year. We'll see if they make it through the winter before I plant them in the yard. Today, I planted 15 peach pits that had sprouted in the fridge. Hopefully, I'll have fruit in 4-7 years. Thanks for the video!
You sound like me I just planted 200 apple seeds that I grew from seed been stratifying them all winter working with about 50 peach seeds, persimmons and pawpaw’s next 😂❤
Tip on the paw paws I’ve been trying to germinate them for the past three years I found out that they require warm stratification first before cold stratification so if yours don’t germinate try doing warm Strat and then throwing them back in again for cold.
You might want to graft a known good variety of apple on to those trees and just keep the seed part as root stock. Apples do NOT grow true to seed, meaning you can (and very likely will) raise the seed from a delicious apple in to an apple that doesn't taste good, is mealy, etc. Avocados and cherries are like this, as well
Around 20-30 years ago, the dogma was to dig huge holes and add back with amendments. More recently, the dogma shifted to not using amendments because you supposedly want your trees/(roses/shrubs) to adapt to the actual native soil, building better long term root systems. So go figure. Your pendulum is swinging back to the heavily amended giant hole…. I grew some spectacular, huge roses after digging hip-deep holes in nasty clay, then amending. It certainly worked. Not sure which school of thought to follow now that I’m planting fruit trees this spring.
I lost a ton of trees by planting them in shallow holes with very little nutrients added at the time of planting. And I got excellent results with bigger holes, plus sand, compost, fertilizers and lots of water. In the end we should take decisions based on our experience.
can you/epic gardening do a video on Espalier fruit trees. just made a compromise with my mom, that if I make the trees look aesthetic I can plant fruit trees 😂
One thing i see to often is people digging a multi year hole and only filling the hole with compost, this can be a problem for a couple years as the tree has no access to mineral/metals rich soil.. its crucial that you mix in a little sand gravel or whatever was in the native soil. If this isnt done then the tree mY struggle to grow and balance itself. Love the video, cant wait to see updates on the tree's growth next year 👍🏽
Hubs told me i could pick out a plant for valentines day... he didn't count on me choosing a 4 in one cherry!!! Im growing in a pot... please do a pot video for fruit video!
Watching you prune that tree so aggressively gave me the confidence to prune the trees I planted last spring a bit further than I did previously, thanks for the great information
(aka Cathy Brock). Thank you for this full planting video, I am looking to put in fruit trees, this was very beneficial and educational. Would love to see more video's as you plant out the rest of you new trees.
Thanks for this video shock. It explains quite a bit and I am planting a fruit tree tomorrow. The last couple years I’ve planted some fluids. We already had a peach and a nectarine. But we have golfers and they got my last plout
I had to laugh at your auto-correct saying you had golfers that got your pluot! From now on my gopher holes are going to be numbered for the golfers! I had them take out a plum tree some years back, and I was a very grumpy gardener at that time.
Whittling skills coming in handy. Had to review this again for pruning and spacer instructions-just planted a new pear and apple today. Thanks, Jacques!
Heavy clay soil, small yard. My fruit trees r in 25 gal pots, some air-pruned, some not. Never sure in socal when to prune/feed. N how deep to plant. This vid helped some.
Hey Jacques my first ever seed starts are sprouting and I want to thank you for all your seed starting videos they've really given me a good foundation of education to build my new garden off of! This video came just in time I just bought my home and was wanting to plant a celebratory fruit tree and with the hard clay soil here in Texas I was a little unsure if it would thrive. Also, do you think you'll ever cut back all the overgrowth near your new tree, that one bush is absolutely massive!
If your soil is truly clay through and through you might be better off planting on a slightly mound. You can still dig but I would stay shallower but keep the width. Then build your soil up about 6 inches so the tree sits above ground level slightly. This will ensure it gets enough drainage, if that's an issue for your soil. I do plan on trimming back all those plants over time, I want to let the giant bush bloom first!
I am curious to see how this works out. I have been told not to do this as it encourages the tree to stay in the amended area and not reach out into the native soil. TBH I don’t know if it’s true though
I am right there with you, when I read it in Orrin's book I was excited. He has been growing fruit trees for over 40 years if I recall correctly. I also love challenging old norms and rules to see if they are actually founded on anything. I find it hard to believe that a tree would just give up and stay in some imaginary boundary.
@@jacquesinthegardenMany “old norms” are bs. I’m sure your tree will be fine. Forking the sides of the whole likely yields zero benefit, as does soaking the tree before planting.
Thanks Jacques for the quality video as always! Excited to hear that you are going to be making more fruit tree videos. I am a renter and would love a video on planting fruit trees in containers. Hopefully someday I'll have a place where I can plant in-ground, but until then I'd love to know if it is possible to get any meaningful yield from a tree in a big pot.
Missouri is red clay and ROCKS... and lots of roots etc. Digging a 2 ft x 3ft hole is quite an undertaking for an old lady.... I know some who have done this, and they like it.
Jacques! Great real stuff. As a person experienced growing fruit trees in heavy clay and attempting this multi year hole method be careful about root rot! I know this probably isnt of a concern typically in San Diego but if you get a lot of rain, this is going to be an area where your water collects since the rest of the ground subsoil is much more dense and compact. It’s gonna take a lot longer for water from a heavy rain to permeate through your native soil and more than likely it’s going to collect in your Hole that you just dug. You may want to dig a deeper hole near the trees hole that will help collect water or you can add another swale to re-direct overwatering away from the tree.
hi jacques 🤗 how did you know that i just bought fruit trees TODAY?!? 2 blueberry varieties, 1 peach and a nectaplum (wanted to try something new). please do a video (or direct to one you've already done) on growing fruit trees in pots. i dont have the yard space to put them in the ground (an apple and cherry tree already took over the area - lol). tfs
Fruit trees are my favourite, so I'm so excited that you're looking into expanding your range and will be doing some more fruit tree content in future! 😁
Since this one is a multi-grafted tree there is no graft down low just grafts on all the points where the branches emerge. So at best 1 can be north but the rest would be randomly orientated so I didn't bother choosing orientation based on the graft.
Nice video! It would be nice to know more about what fruit trees your planted and to also have some information about each variety! It's nice to see a fruit tree! Love fruit trees! hehehe 😋
Along with stabbing the sides, I have seen other gardeners recommend digging perfectly square holes, no rounded sides at all. The theory is that if there is no rounded wall to divert the root in a circular direction, the root is forced to keep punching forward. I think I'm going to try combining both methods on the next tree I plant.
I'm in Garland Texas. It's all thick clay we call gumbo. Sigh every time I see yall dig so easy I'm jealous. I raise bed garden because the clay is so hard to improve.
Jaques, I actually have enjoyed your content actually since almost the actual start so I feel like you can actually understand that this critique is actually coming from a place of appreciation and not actually meant to be taken actually hateful in any actual way.... Actually I throughly enjoy the channel actually and I'm not actually sure if I've actually expressed that actually enough, LITERALLY 💜🤭🤭💜
That is a great piece of advice for sure. I didn't think of it because I am planting on the heels of multiple rain storms so my soil is actually super hydrated right now!
What wonderful timing. We have two plum trees arriving soon. Even though our trees are fruit trees, they haven't produced any fruits and they have been in the garden for years. I will give this method a try. Thank you.
What I'd like to see you do is plant some support species to help the tree and create more food at the same time; a ground cover layer, shrub layer, vine layer, chop n' drop around the tree etc.
Very comprehensive video on planting bare root trees. Thank you Jacques! Wish you would have posted this before I had planted my two peach trees and one cherry tree last week. Darn! I'm surprised that you didn't stake your new planting. Where I live we get very high winds and staking is a must.
Hey don’t worry about how you planted them! Most of the time doing nothing is the best recommendation anyways. Thankfully where we are we do get wind but it’s rarely sustained over 15 mph
Backfilled soil always drops and more so when mixed with organic matter. In my experience, it's best to position the root flare 2-4 inches above the nominal soil surface when using this method.
Agreed, I could have gone a little higher on the root crown, currently its basically 1/4" from the surface. I did do a lot of serious tamping so I am hoping settling won't actually be too severe.
Great detail on planting. However, would trimming the tree right after you put it in the ground stress the tree even more with all those fresh cut wound.wouldnt you want to wait to make sure the tree takes and new leaves comes out then trim?
The beauty of pruning it at this moment is that it is dormant. So it isn't trying to grow anything above ground just roots. Also by pruning it heavily at the start it actually makes it easier for it to grow. That is because it was already ripped out of the ground to be sold like this so it lost a lot of its roots. Without those roots it cannot support the original canopy it had!
Hi Jacques! 2 yrs ago I had to remove all my stone fruit trees because of some sort of blight that caused cankers and oozing. I just bought a brand new Red haven peach and am wondering if I dare plant and prune it this year, or if I should stick it in a container, whitewash the heck out of it, and not lay a clipper on it to keep any spores from being introduced. Thoughts?
Whitewashing helps to suppress pests & disease. A copper spray during late fall & mid-winter can help to suppress any spore-type disease in the garden. Also, planting a diverse garden, instead of just one-type of trees, will help to contain any possible disease from spreading to adjacent related-type tree; example, peaches, plums, cherries are all related stone fruits. Lastly, fruit trees typically grow & fruit best when planted in-ground… the exception is blueberries that typically grow best in containers (where they can experience better drainage & customized acidic soils). I hope these tips help get your fruit tree orchard back on track! Let me know if you have any other questions. Happy Gardening, Charles 🌱👍
Some of these blights need to be treated yearly to best them back. Things like copper or sulfur can help best it back over time. I would avoid planting in the same area at the very least. Many trees can grow well in containers if you want to give it a go, it will just produce less than it's full potential
Thank you, Jacques! Since I cull the fruit for the first couple of years, I may just stick it in a pot in another part of the yard for this year, at least, and treat the area of the yard where I want it to land. Peaches are worth the work 😀
There are some big trees I'd love to try, especially more shrubby ones like hazelnuts. A lot of the bit crops are super water intensive and seek to like some more cold hours than we have down here. I am on the lookout for one that fits my space!
@@jacquesinthegarden I love hazelnuts. I do believe they grow wild here in Minnesota. I just bought two bareroot hazelnut babies last year. I just hope I can keep the deer and squirrels away from them.😱
Nice job. That is how we've planted for years and they do great. My only critiques are hard pruning a tree a day before a rain storm. But, should be ok.
The bottom of the hole is amended with topsoil which makes me not worry at all. If this works well for someone in Santa Cruz, where the author is based, then I'm not worried. They get substantially more rain than I do. Also, the first year will barely have any roots down deep enough to have a chance of drowning. By year two the roots will be plenty established and able of using water. I do think this is an important caveat and if you are planting in a low spot where water collects then I would agree it could be a problem. My garden has plenty of clay and I found a lot of existing roots even at the depth I dug with no signs for rotting.
WHERE do you find bare-root trees with such a Robust root system..? And @ 10:35, you didn't re-explain which feature of the new tree's trunk you were saying should be 'beneath the shovel [handle as your soil-top reference]..." Was that the Graft Union between the rootstock & the scion-stalk ?
Thank you Jacques! Excellent info. I’ve followed the directions on the bare root bag that the trees come in. I agree with your planting info and most of what you offered was almost the same as the bag recommendations. I didn’t wiggle my trees as you recommended or added fertilizer. Fingers crossed that the trees will still do well.
One thing to note when filling a fruit tree hole with all the organic material is that it will settle over time. It continues to break down just like you see in a raised bed. Generally you want to mix it with the soil that's in the hole already, especially if it's clay to help with water retention, and you will want to make sure that the tree is ultimately elevated above the surrounding area. As the organic material continues to break down, the tree will settle closer to the original height.
That is I why the tamping was so crucial here, unlike a raised bed I am actually stomping down the soil as I backfill. That should dramatically reduce settling but there is a chance I should have planted slightly higher
Thank you for such a detailed and informative video. In Mexico we use something similar to Ivy Organic. It’s a mixture of 50% lime and 50% water. (3 or 4 coats) the purpose is to protect the fruit tree from the sun, and to prevent insects to land on/or to climb up the tree.
This is helpful. We just ordered 3 fruit trees for April, but we have the worst heavy clay soil. We have plenty of trees, but I was worried about the young ones. I think I'll try this. (At least, I think I'll try it until I have to start digging out heavy clay soil. 😂)
That is one I haven't experimented with but depending on what you are dealing with in terms of pests or disease! I do plan on applying some copper on things like my grapes which I know suffer from fungal disease already.
I've always heard best to not amend, especially in clay soil, but to plant in native soil so tree will learn to grow in native soil. Also, dont want to create a pot situation where roots circle in the good stuff. Good to plant trees high on a mound, so there is good drainage, then all amendments go on top for worms to mix in evenly.
That is the general rule of thumb and surefire way to get great growth without any chance of messing things up. It is how I have done most tees I’ve planted in the past as well. I thought it was fascinating to hear the opposite advice could work as well so here is my test!
I plant in clay all the time the cool part is you can have bricks and break them down so imagine plating the tree with seeds and finish the top with seeds and golf balls of clay then plant flowers and cover with flower seeds soil and clay and grass you can create a crust and if you rake into them you can release water later on and the seeds can break the surface and allow water penetration
Thanks for another great video! I have to admit that I had no idea about placing the shovel across the hole to judge the root level. Any suggestions in terms of just getting the hole dug with extremely rocky soil? I live in Virginia and my soil is clay with like, the most rocks you’ve ever seen, so I usually just dig a pretty basic hole and try not to break down in the process 😂
I planted a ton of grass by raking it flat putting seeds like salt and 2inch of clay in 4x8ft sections starting under the corner peak of my front yard made a walkway where I can walk a garbage can or drive a riding lawnmower and I flattened out an area so there can be a sidewalk by the new fire hydrant and maintained the grass next to the road and planted so much more when they re did the road so now with it all flat and has grass I want to plant huge piles of stuff but start in pots and then plant the pots with more seeds and put rocks for voids so start with the rocks and once everything gets growing you remove the pockets to control the water shed and fill them with clay and grass and flowers and more trees and seeds and wait till the seeds plant themselves and make an incredible landscape
This is interesting! Will you get some fruit this summer? How many types of peaches are on the one tree and do they all come out at the same time? This seems like a good idea for small spaces where you could have some variety :)
I could in theory get a fruit or two but I will be fully removing any that form this year to allow the tree to focus on growing roots. This one is 3 peaches and they have varied harvest windows so instead of all of them ready at once they will form overlapping time windows over a few months!
Hi Jacques! Nice big hole! I'm planning a new garden and have been a subscriber to yours and the Epic channels for quite a while now. Then several fruit tree guild videos popped up in my UA-cam feed just this week. They are so beautiful and make so much sense that I'm changing my original design to incorporate fruit trees and in guild form. Hey you know about Permaculture - have you ever considered making fruit tree guilds? If so, then what do you think about them?
You absolutely could root them, or use them to graft onto other related trays. To root them it's usually best to place in damp soil to slow rotting but water can work sometimes. The downside is you don't have a rootstock which controls height and also offers some disease protection.
Thanks for the video Jacques. This inspired me to get another for a spot that just opened up in my yard. I decided to go with a 4 in 1 Asian Pair tree. One thing I'm concerned about is the planting depth. I did my best to keep the feeder roots close to the surface but after I watered the tree in they are now exposed. Can I just leave them be or should I cover them with mulch or garden soil? Thanks and keep the videos coming.
I like to put a big dead log inside that the roots can latch on to. Figure it can eventually anchor itself on it. That shouldn't hurt it right? Thanks I learned alot should have subbed a long time ago.
I wanted to add a few points here on the process, some clarifications, and summarize a lot of the common questions I got.
1) You ABSOLUTLEY can just dig a hole slightly bigger than the root ball, pop the tree in, cover, water, and mulch and call it a day. This is how most people plant trees and it works! I am trying this method because it should speed up the initial root growth and I am curious!
2) It is called a multiyear hole because in an ideal world you would spend 2+ years amending and preparing soil to be perfect. This means amending, cover cropping, mulching, and cycling organic matter into the soil. By following the procedure I show in the video you are shortcutting that time by forcing the soil to be as if it was amended for years. This makes it a multiyear hole as it saves you multiple years of working the soil before planting.
3) If you have true CLAY soil like +70% clay than this method might not be great for you. The surrounding water will drain into the hole you dug and can lead to root rot. If you have some sand and silt with your clay, like I do, then it should be able to drain just fine. There is also the caveat of climate, in San Diego we average 10-12 inches of rain a year so drowning roots is really a non-issue for me!
4) I like to test old rules and see if they apply to me. Many recommendations that people take as fact are based on regional climate, soil, and many other factors. A recommendation that has come up a lot recently is to NEVER put organic matter like compost in the ground as it can cause rotting. I personally disagree, as you test soil over the years you will see organic matter increase year after year at depth. This can even happen in a no-till setting as things like worms dig up and down drawing organic matter through the soil layers and also pooping. Roots that decompose at depth also become organic matter. Double digging involves adding compost at depth and has been practiced for 100s of years with massive production alongside it. It is a all about the details, if you add a straight pile of compost at the bottom and don't mix it and put roots on top of that then it yes it may cause root rot. If you blend it with some topsoil before placing your roots then the odds of root rot decrease dramatically. It is all about the details!
5) I love your questions and I will do the best to answer as many as I can! Don't be afraid to ask questions and challenge me because I truly enjoy the discussion it creates and I won't be right about everything!
These are all good points! It is certainly different to add well-rotted compost to a hole vs putting in kitchen scraps or (as one UA-camr did) a *chicken*!!!! One is great for roots the other is just a pile of rotting junk. A key point is that breaking down that organic matter robs nitrogen, so if it’s not already done rotting, it’s going to rob your roots, not support them.
It doesn't make the hater comments easier, but the best scientists always get at least a little heat. I appreciate you testing things like this, it's the best part about the channel tbh. If we aren't trying new things and showing the data to people, then wtf are we even doing.
Jokes on you, I made a special little graft on your tree in the middle of the night…
Please tell me it wasn't that "special" droopy purple wienie tree graft! 😂
He prol pruned it off. Lol
*exasperated noise* Eric.....!!! 😆🤣😆
😂 I already gathered plenty of donor grafts from your place so maybe I'll fix your handiwork
😂😂😂😂😂
We are SO PROUD to be a part of your growing success! Happy Gardening 2024, Jacques! 🌱🙌
Can the white wash paint be stored after opening? And if so, for how long?
Thanks for making a great organic option for this!
So interesting to watch. I grew up in a family that was forever planting trees. Many wind shelters. I was always told that yes the depth is important but making the hole wider was paramount. My Mom was an avid gardener. It will be lovely to watch the progress of your fruit trees. Thank you for sharing this ❤❤❤
It does seem like width is where the real impact is, I will be sure to include updates throughout the season!
That's awesome! That's real experience, you know she didn't just read it on Pinterest or a FB group...
Completely agree on your point about width. So many people underestimate how much of a trees roots grow in the shallow soil. (In most environments) when you see a tree that's been ripped out of the ground by a storm, they typically only have a handful of deep tap roots. Everything else is shallow to take advantage of as much rain water as possible.
Geologist shoutout with the rite in the rain book. I still use them for all of my notes and logging as well and especially in the garden.
I think the full-size notebook was a bit of a flex to this recent college grad; we only had the 1/2 sized books on campus :( I kinda want that book now.
@@dylanlarose9171 there are so many options. I briefly did geology supply sales and they were part of my brand portfolio and it was so cool all the different types. I like the tiny green ones and the spiral bound ones a lot.
@@dylanlarose9171 I know I need that full size book. The smaller one was so hard for me to draw in
I just planted a cherry tree this morning in my NorCal 10a garden! I didn't think I could grow cherries here (too warm) but this little Royal Crimson cherry only needs 200-300 hours of chill and is self-fruiting. It's a brand new cultivar and I can't wait to get some fruit! My pear and apple both fruited on the second year so we'll see. Sadly I just dug a plain hole.
Nothing wrong with a plain hole, it is a known method that works! I have heard about those cherries but I am trying to resist the temptation haha
I try not to look at growing zones to much. I planted peanuts last year in a zone 6 when they are recommended at 8 to 11. They grew great and even if they didnt they should adapt overtime as long as I use seeds from last years crop for the next year.
Your plain hole is best. If you have any clay, heavily amending the soil is a big mistake. Start top down soil improvement (slow release organic fertilizer, compost, organic mulch) and your tree will be fine.
Where in NorCal is 10a???
@@bertarnoldo5199 I live in Bay Area and am in 10a
It doesn't make the hater comments easier, but the best scientists always get at least a little heat. I appreciate you testing things like this, it's the best part about the channel tbh. If we aren't trying new things and showing the data to people, then wtf are we even doing.
Growfully With Jenna did a great video on this too and refers to it as digging a $50 hole for a $5 tree
That is another great way to refer to this!
Down right impressive how she just picked her up like a baby! That's no easy task! Kudos to her for being such a kind soul!
I also learned that it is very important to heavily prune bare-root trees when planting them because when they were torn out of the earth they were growing in, a large part of the root was torn off as well. So the root system that is left is not large enough to support the canopy above it anymore, hence the need to severely prune the canopy. It made a lot of sense to me.
Old wives tale! Think of it this way, plant needs energy to rebuild itself so now you hack off its ability to gather that energy? Almost the worst thing you can do!
@@dac7046 No, you don't hack off its energy, you only cut off enough of the canopy so the newly cut and lessened roots can support it.Then they (roots and canopy) can work in equal balance again so both grow together. It's all about proper balance (which was interfered with when ripping off part of the roots).
A lady who had much more plant experience than myself once warned me about digging when the ground was too wet, like what you were saying. She said doing so would create a basin that wouldn’t drain because of the heavy clay soil we have in NE Ohio.
The issue becomes that the soil gets compacted easily when it is wet and then it is difficult for it to expand!
I believe this can be utilized as a rainwater collection technique.
As long as it isn’t in the wrong place….
So when I do a tree which I should be planning a tree soon, I don’t remember who told me if it was a landscaper or someone but it works when I plan a fruit tree or any tree flower tree in the hole I make very large I also put a 2 inch PVC pipe in there to come all the way up from the root to the top and as you put your soil and your compost and whatever mold or whatever you want When you want to water that tree, you can water directly into the PVC pipe and it goes down to the roof now I have done this with a flowering tree before the orchid flower and that plant where that tree grew so fast and it was beautiful until we got a freeze real bad here in Texas But that concept of putting a PVC pipe in with your bearing the soil in and to feed it just feed directly to the pipe it works. I’m telling you it works. I don’t know if you’ve ever done that before if you heard it but I’ve done it. I haven’t planted trees in so long, but I’m getting ready to plant a crabapple and I will try this method with the crabapple.
I know it's a method people have mentioned before but it seems to be less recommended lately. I think it can be a great move depending on the soil and setup. The issues I've heard is that it focuses the water and nutrients in the wrong space. Most of the roots are on the surface of the soil out to a few feet rather than down near the base.
Thank you! Perfect timing since I have 12 bare root fruit trees coming in tomorrow
Where did you get them? Several folks are wondering which site to try. Would love a referral!
Orange Pippin trees bare root trees, they for sure have a massive amount of apples at the least!
You should watch some of Gary matsuoka's UA-cam videos on 'ideal soil'. He says no compost or organic matter in the hole (peat is an exception). As it's decomposing, it will use up all the oxygen and cause roots to die or rot.
Even most resources say not to amend the soil for trees as they tend to not want to grow outwards. If you have clay soil, you want to amend with anything that allows for drainage or aeration. Sand, perlite, pumice, lava rocks, etc.
I think holes amended with compost are why do many avocado trees die.
Avacados are especially finicky. I've heard the same thing.
I have heard this from Gary before, I couldn't recall if that was his advice for containers or just generally speaking. In this case I am taking the advice of the orchard master at UCSC who has been tending outdoors fruit trees for 30+ years. With things like the suggestions against compost I want to test it myself because every soil profile and climate will react differently!
@@jacquesinthegarden I've watched almost all of Gary's videos. I think his advice for not mixing in organic matter is for both in pot and in ground. He said that for annuals, it would probably be ok since the soil isn't going to go anaerobic in that timeframe. For perennials , it can kill them. If the organic matter is low enough, the plant can eventually recover when the organic matter decomposes low enough.
He's also mentioned that the UC system has got it all wrong and they are the ones that teach the nurseries.
I live in San Diego so I'm able to get free compost from the landfill. My beds with heavy compost (40%) go anaerobic when I over water or when it rains a lot. The roots never go deeper than 1 foot so I believe what he is saying. Sometimes I dig down and it really thick and stinky. I've never measured but I think the roots go about 8 inches deep. My pepper plants always fall over because the compost makes the soil too fluffy and the roots don't go deep enough.
I bought 7 avocado trees and 10 stonefruit within the last 7 months. If all my trees stay alive in the next few years, especially the avocados, I think Gary is on to something. I also like the idea that the mineral based soil does not drop soil level every year. Only the compost sitting on top drops but not the mineral soil level. Some of my beds have dropped 6 inches in 2-3 years.
@@geeyoupee I totally agree that mineral based soils are fantastic for containers as you will not get the settling. I think in terms of compost there is a lot of nuance there as no two composts are created equally. I found that the Miramar compost is actually way to powdered and fine grained. This has caused me issues in the past even for annual beds as there is no air movement and it becomes a matted soggy anerobic layer. I now produce a lot of my own compost and get additional compost from SPV Soils up in Escondido which has much great diversity in the mix and also in the grain size. Since I've started using my own and their compost I haven't noticed any of those issues anymore. There of course can be TOO much compost which can lead to other issues like way too much phosphorus. When it comes to applying compost anywhere else in the garden I use as mulch, not blended into the subsoil. By apply a thin layer every year of every major growth cycle I slowly build up the soil and avoid that over fluff and anerobic problem!
@@jacquesinthegarden I agree, the Miramar compost is very fine. I don't think it's an issue if you put an inch thick on top of the soil as it will be able to breath as you suggested. Even if the compost has bigger texture, I think it will eventually decompose into smaller pieces and reduce airflow. This probably isn't an issue with high draining/ breathing soils such as sandy loam but can probably determental for clay soils. When my retaining walls were made, the contractors filled them with subsoil clay so I had to discard a bunch and make my own "potting mix"which is why I missed in so much compost. I also bought a bag of spvs compost recently but it was pretty fine too. Maybe it was the bag I got. They have cheap pumice if you are ever looking for a cu yard.
Another problem with the settling of the potting soil is that it compacts the roots and will bring the root flare of plants lower in the pots. Root compaction was one of chili chumps issues in his giant pepper plant. Nurseries tend to top of the soil in their pots. When I planted a bunch of trees this year, most of them had adventitious roots that I had to cut off because they were planted 4-6 inches too deep.
Mineral soils can be really heavy though, this can be an issue in pots. It can be a good thing if you need a really stable pot such as dragon fruit pot. Richard from grafting dragon fruit has recently started moving to a mineral mix.
You learn new things in gardening all the time. I feel a lot of information aren't science backed. I thought I would share my thoughts in case you wanted to look into it. I'm glad I found Gary's videos before I planted my 15 trees.
I like the depth of detail in your explanations - easier to hear than the newly gardener stuff. Thanks.
Last year, I grew 23 apple, 17 pear, and 3 plum trees from seed. I planted 2 of the plums along with 3 service berries. I'll be picking out my healthiest 2 pears and apples to plant this fall. I also have 4 Pawpaw trees I started from seed last year. We'll see if they make it through the winter before I plant them in the yard. Today, I planted 15 peach pits that had sprouted in the fridge. Hopefully, I'll have fruit in 4-7 years. Thanks for the video!
I hope your young.
@@pattiethompson9154 I am 53 years young.😊
You sound like me I just planted 200 apple seeds that I grew from seed been stratifying them all winter working with about 50 peach seeds, persimmons and pawpaw’s next 😂❤
Tip on the paw paws I’ve been trying to germinate them for the past three years I found out that they require warm stratification first before cold stratification so if yours don’t germinate try doing warm Strat and then throwing them back in again for cold.
You might want to graft a known good variety of apple on to those trees and just keep the seed part as root stock. Apples do NOT grow true to seed, meaning you can (and very likely will) raise the seed from a delicious apple in to an apple that doesn't taste good, is mealy, etc. Avocados and cherries are like this, as well
Around 20-30 years ago, the dogma was to dig huge holes and add back with amendments. More recently, the dogma shifted to not using amendments because you supposedly want your trees/(roses/shrubs) to adapt to the actual native soil, building better long term root systems.
So go figure. Your pendulum is swinging back to the heavily amended giant hole….
I grew some spectacular, huge roses after digging hip-deep holes in nasty clay, then amending. It certainly worked. Not sure which school of thought to follow now that I’m planting fruit trees this spring.
I lost a ton of trees by planting them in shallow holes with very little nutrients added at the time of planting. And I got excellent results with bigger holes, plus sand, compost, fertilizers and lots of water. In the end we should take decisions based on our experience.
can you/epic gardening do a video on Espalier fruit trees. just made a compromise with my mom, that if I make the trees look aesthetic I can plant fruit trees 😂
I have a espalier apple maybe we can cover it in some more detail but it will take at least a year to setup the process
One thing i see to often is people digging a multi year hole and only filling the hole with compost, this can be a problem for a couple years as the tree has no access to mineral/metals rich soil.. its crucial that you mix in a little sand gravel or whatever was in the native soil. If this isnt done then the tree mY struggle to grow and balance itself. Love the video, cant wait to see updates on the tree's growth next year 👍🏽
hoping to plant out my first ever fruit trees this season! Thinking apple, pear, and peaches! Dope video! Loving the content you've been pumping out!
I got 2 apples in mind as well! I also just put in some pears in a two in one hole so I am super excited for those!
Hubs told me i could pick out a plant for valentines day... he didn't count on me choosing a 4 in one cherry!!! Im growing in a pot... please do a pot video for fruit video!
I will try to get a tree in container video sometime in spring!
Watching you prune that tree so aggressively gave me the confidence to prune the trees I planted last spring a bit further than I did previously, thanks for the great information
(aka Cathy Brock). Thank you for this full planting video, I am looking to put in fruit trees, this was very beneficial and educational. Would love to see more video's as you plant out the rest of you new trees.
Glad it was helpful!
All the cabbage content has been giving me life I can’t wait to grow some like that one day!!
Thanks for this video shock. It explains quite a bit and I am planting a fruit tree tomorrow. The last couple years I’ve planted some fluids. We already had a peach and a nectarine. But we have golfers and they got my last plout
I had to laugh at your auto-correct saying you had golfers that got your pluot! From now on my gopher holes are going to be numbered for the golfers! I had them take out a plum tree some years back, and I was a very grumpy gardener at that time.
@@domesti-city ha ha.. Gophers!
Gopher baskets made from stainless steel would be ideal for gopher protection! That is a huge pain to lose that harvest though 😞
Where do you find gopher baskets online? Or does epic gardening carry them? And do you guys have gophers in San Diego area?
Whittling skills coming in handy. Had to review this again for pruning and spacer instructions-just planted a new pear and apple today. Thanks, Jacques!
Heavy clay soil, small yard. My fruit trees r in 25 gal pots, some air-pruned, some not. Never sure in socal when to prune/feed. N how deep to plant. This vid helped some.
Happy to hear it. Sometimes in San Diego it is difficult as trees simply won't go dormant!
Hi Jacques! Perfect timing as I will be helping my mom with a tree transplant. Your garden looks incredible!
Hey Jacques my first ever seed starts are sprouting and I want to thank you for all your seed starting videos they've really given me a good foundation of education to build my new garden off of! This video came just in time I just bought my home and was wanting to plant a celebratory fruit tree and with the hard clay soil here in Texas I was a little unsure if it would thrive. Also, do you think you'll ever cut back all the overgrowth near your new tree, that one bush is absolutely massive!
If your soil is truly clay through and through you might be better off planting on a slightly mound. You can still dig but I would stay shallower but keep the width. Then build your soil up about 6 inches so the tree sits above ground level slightly. This will ensure it gets enough drainage, if that's an issue for your soil. I do plan on trimming back all those plants over time, I want to let the giant bush bloom first!
I am curious to see how this works out. I have been told not to do this as it encourages the tree to stay in the amended area and not reach out into the native soil. TBH I don’t know if it’s true though
I am right there with you, when I read it in Orrin's book I was excited. He has been growing fruit trees for over 40 years if I recall correctly. I also love challenging old norms and rules to see if they are actually founded on anything. I find it hard to believe that a tree would just give up and stay in some imaginary boundary.
@@jacquesinthegardenMany “old norms” are bs. I’m sure your tree will be fine. Forking the sides of the whole likely yields zero benefit, as does soaking the tree before planting.
@@jacquesinthegarden I agree. so often what we are told isn’t true when applied
It’s amazing that you have over 360k followers. I remember when you reached 10k. You’re still amazing
I didn’t know this method had a name. This is the only way I’ve ever planted trees!!!
my favourite plant in the background. Strelitzias. i have 3 monsters in my front garden. Love them. and love this video too thank you, so useful.
Never heard of that name for them before! They are wonderful and also near impossible to remove !
I literally can't wait to see the fruit trees in a couple of years! Looks great!!!
Thanks Jacques for the quality video as always! Excited to hear that you are going to be making more fruit tree videos. I am a renter and would love a video on planting fruit trees in containers. Hopefully someday I'll have a place where I can plant in-ground, but until then I'd love to know if it is possible to get any meaningful yield from a tree in a big pot.
I will try to add some content there, it is actually odd that I haven’t before since I have so many in containers already!
Missouri is red clay and ROCKS... and lots of roots etc. Digging a 2 ft x 3ft hole is quite an undertaking for an old lady.... I know some who have done this, and they like it.
Same issue here in GA. I use an auger. It will dig 2ft in about 4 min
I can totally see this being a nightmare depending on your local soil!
Jacques! Great real stuff. As a person experienced growing fruit trees in heavy clay and attempting this multi year hole method be careful about root rot! I know this probably isnt of a concern typically in San Diego but if you get a lot of rain, this is going to be an area where your water collects since the rest of the ground subsoil is much more dense and compact. It’s gonna take a lot longer for water from a heavy rain to permeate through your native soil and more than likely it’s going to collect in your Hole that you just dug. You may want to dig a deeper hole near the trees hole that will help collect water or you can add another swale to re-direct overwatering away from the tree.
I loved this! My favorites are probably garden chore vlogs but an end-to-end process is so good too.
I love doing both so that’s great!
What a great detailed and informative video! Thanks so much!
Interesting to watch and makes good sense for bad soil. Will be Interesting to see how it grows. Thanks for sharing. 🌳
I got a nectarine at Costco for $20 I had my doubts it’s in the ground and growing well. Can’t wait for next year to find more barefoot trees.
That is an awesome deal!
I loved this video! We actually got a couple fruit trees ourselves!
Great timing for me. I have a Cara Cara Orange tree that needs to get planted. I am going to try this multi year hole recipe…wish me luck! 😊
Best of luck!
Fantastic video! Thanks for all the effort you put into making this! I learned a lot!!!
Thanks for finally letting me know what this giant monstrous but beautiful “pride of Madeira” is!
hi jacques 🤗
how did you know that i just bought fruit trees TODAY?!?
2 blueberry varieties, 1 peach and a nectaplum (wanted to try something new).
please do a video (or direct to one you've already done) on growing fruit trees in pots. i dont have the yard space to put them in the ground (an apple and cherry tree already took over the area - lol). tfs
I have a lot in pot shit haven't done a video, great idea! No promise on when though!
This video couldn't have come at a better time! I have bare root trees coming in March. I feel more confident now!😊
Fruit trees are my favourite, so I'm so excited that you're looking into expanding your range and will be doing some more fruit tree content in future! 😁
You should also make sure the graft point faces north to minimize the risk of sun scald.
Since this one is a multi-grafted tree there is no graft down low just grafts on all the points where the branches emerge. So at best 1 can be north but the rest would be randomly orientated so I didn't bother choosing orientation based on the graft.
Jacques, this was so very informative! I learned so much with your great teaching. I canNOT wait to get some fruit trees!
Nice video! It would be nice to know more about what fruit trees your planted and to also have some information about each variety! It's nice to see a fruit tree! Love fruit trees! hehehe 😋
I will try to include more details on the varieties!
@@jacquesinthegarden thank you! I appreciate it! :D
Excellent 🎉🎉🎉 I subscribed to your channel 🙏
I’m planning my own fruit orchard this year and your video was super helpful! Thanks so much for this.
Along with stabbing the sides, I have seen other gardeners recommend digging perfectly square holes, no rounded sides at all. The theory is that if there is no rounded wall to divert the root in a circular direction, the root is forced to keep punching forward. I think I'm going to try combining both methods on the next tree I plant.
That is another great way of encouraging the root spread!
I've been dying for you to post!!!!!! Hehehe
I have plenty more coming!
You are a very good teacher Jacques! Thanks so much for these great instructions.
You are very welcome
I'm in Garland Texas. It's all thick clay we call gumbo. Sigh every time I see yall dig so easy I'm jealous. I raise bed garden because the clay is so hard to improve.
Always look forward to your videos! Thank you!
Will be interesting to see if it was worth the extra work and hassle. Cool concept
It was quite a bit of work, especially with filming, so I am also really curious to see how it does!
Just in time! Ive got fruit trees to plant in heavy clay. Thank you!
Jaques, I actually have enjoyed your content actually since almost the actual start so I feel like you can actually understand that this critique is actually coming from a place of appreciation and not actually meant to be taken actually hateful in any actual way....
Actually I throughly enjoy the channel actually and I'm not actually sure if I've actually expressed that actually enough, LITERALLY 💜🤭🤭💜
What you smokin?
Actually is a curse, need to train that one out!
good job
I really like this method! I will be implementing this with any new fruit trees I buy. Thanks for sharing.
Jaques I was told I should fill a hole with water twice before I plant a tree or a shrub what do you think? Have a great weekend Jaques.
That is a great piece of advice for sure. I didn't think of it because I am planting on the heels of multiple rain storms so my soil is actually super hydrated right now!
What wonderful timing. We have two plum trees arriving soon. Even though our trees are fruit trees, they haven't produced any fruits and they have been in the garden for years. I will give this method a try. Thank you.
I am very curious to see if this works out!
@@jacquesinthegarden I will be sure to send an update.
What I'd like to see you do is plant some support species to help the tree and create more food at the same time; a ground cover layer, shrub layer, vine layer, chop n' drop around the tree etc.
Very comprehensive video on planting bare root trees. Thank you Jacques! Wish you would have posted this before I had planted my two peach trees and one cherry tree last week. Darn! I'm surprised that you didn't stake your new planting. Where I live we get very high winds and staking is a must.
Hey don’t worry about how you planted them! Most of the time doing nothing is the best recommendation anyways. Thankfully where we are we do get wind but it’s rarely sustained over 15 mph
Looking forward to seeing the growth and progress with this tree….fantastic comprehensive video. Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I loved your video, I like to water into the empty hole a bit then with each layer of back fill.
You are just so informative very detailed . I love all your ❤❤videos
Glad you are liking them!
Backfilled soil always drops and more so when mixed with organic matter. In my experience, it's best to position the root flare 2-4 inches above the nominal soil surface when using this method.
Agreed, I could have gone a little higher on the root crown, currently its basically 1/4" from the surface. I did do a lot of serious tamping so I am hoping settling won't actually be too severe.
Great detail on planting. However, would trimming the tree right after you put it in the ground stress the tree even more with all those fresh cut wound.wouldnt you want to wait to make sure the tree takes and new leaves comes out then trim?
The beauty of pruning it at this moment is that it is dormant. So it isn't trying to grow anything above ground just roots. Also by pruning it heavily at the start it actually makes it easier for it to grow. That is because it was already ripped out of the ground to be sold like this so it lost a lot of its roots. Without those roots it cannot support the original canopy it had!
@@jacquesinthegarden I see. Thank you for this tip. Now I'm going to prune our recently bought trees!
Hi Jacques! 2 yrs ago I had to remove all my stone fruit trees because of some sort of blight that caused cankers and oozing. I just bought a brand new Red haven peach and am wondering if I dare plant and prune it this year, or if I should stick it in a container, whitewash the heck out of it, and not lay a clipper on it to keep any spores from being introduced. Thoughts?
Whitewashing helps to suppress pests & disease. A copper spray during late fall & mid-winter can help to suppress any spore-type disease in the garden. Also, planting a diverse garden, instead of just one-type of trees, will help to contain any possible disease from spreading to adjacent related-type tree; example, peaches, plums, cherries are all related stone fruits. Lastly, fruit trees typically grow & fruit best when planted in-ground… the exception is blueberries that typically grow best in containers (where they can experience better drainage & customized acidic soils). I hope these tips help get your fruit tree orchard back on track! Let me know if you have any other questions.
Happy Gardening,
Charles 🌱👍
Some of these blights need to be treated yearly to best them back. Things like copper or sulfur can help best it back over time. I would avoid planting in the same area at the very least. Many trees can grow well in containers if you want to give it a go, it will just produce less than it's full potential
Thank you, Jacques! Since I cull the fruit for the first couple of years, I may just stick it in a pot in another part of the yard for this year, at least, and treat the area of the yard where I want it to land. Peaches are worth the work 😀
Awesome!! I love fruit trees. Excited to watch it grow. Would you ever get nut trees?
There are some big trees I'd love to try, especially more shrubby ones like hazelnuts. A lot of the bit crops are super water intensive and seek to like some more cold hours than we have down here. I am on the lookout for one that fits my space!
@@jacquesinthegarden I love hazelnuts. I do believe they grow wild here in Minnesota. I just bought two bareroot hazelnut babies last year. I just hope I can keep the deer and squirrels away from them.😱
Nice job. That is how we've planted for years and they do great. My only critiques are hard pruning a tree a day before a rain storm.
But, should be ok.
Digging into clay can have an effect of water pooling in the hole and drowning the roots, are you prepared for that?
The bottom of the hole is amended with topsoil which makes me not worry at all. If this works well for someone in Santa Cruz, where the author is based, then I'm not worried. They get substantially more rain than I do. Also, the first year will barely have any roots down deep enough to have a chance of drowning. By year two the roots will be plenty established and able of using water. I do think this is an important caveat and if you are planting in a low spot where water collects then I would agree it could be a problem.
My garden has plenty of clay and I found a lot of existing roots even at the depth I dug with no signs for rotting.
@@jacquesinthegarden Thanks for the comprehensive answer, nice!
Thanks for those amazing pruning tips!
And I love your outfit Jacques!
😃
Deep labor days are overall days for sure!
WHERE do you find bare-root trees with such a Robust root system..?
And @ 10:35, you didn't re-explain which feature of the new tree's trunk you were saying should be 'beneath the shovel [handle as your soil-top reference]..." Was that the Graft Union between the rootstock & the scion-stalk ?
Thank you Jacques! Excellent info. I’ve followed the directions on the bare root bag that the trees come in. I agree with your planting info and most of what you offered was almost the same as the bag recommendations. I didn’t wiggle my trees as you recommended or added fertilizer. Fingers crossed that the trees will still do well.
One thing to note when filling a fruit tree hole with all the organic material is that it will settle over time. It continues to break down just like you see in a raised bed. Generally you want to mix it with the soil that's in the hole already, especially if it's clay to help with water retention, and you will want to make sure that the tree is ultimately elevated above the surrounding area. As the organic material continues to break down, the tree will settle closer to the original height.
That is I why the tamping was so crucial here, unlike a raised bed I am actually stomping down the soil as I backfill. That should dramatically reduce settling but there is a chance I should have planted slightly higher
Hey bud, that’s a good looking hole you’ve got there.
One of the best
Thank you for such a detailed and informative video.
In Mexico we use something similar to Ivy Organic. It’s a mixture of 50% lime and 50% water. (3 or 4 coats) the purpose is to protect the fruit tree from the sun, and to prevent insects to land on/or to climb up the tree.
Love the fruit tree content jacques im excited for you to get peaches my peach tree is my favorite plant
I am super excited to get peaches! Hopefully next year I can get a couple!
This is helpful. We just ordered 3 fruit trees for April, but we have the worst heavy clay soil. We have plenty of trees, but I was worried about the young ones. I think I'll try this. (At least, I think I'll try it until I have to start digging out heavy clay soil. 😂)
How about dormant oil spray? Just added copper fungicide to our 2nd application of dormant oil spray this winter here in zone 6a.
That is one I haven't experimented with but depending on what you are dealing with in terms of pests or disease! I do plan on applying some copper on things like my grapes which I know suffer from fungal disease already.
I've always heard best to not amend, especially in clay soil, but to plant in native soil so tree will learn to grow in native soil. Also, dont want to create a pot situation where roots circle in the good stuff. Good to plant trees high on a mound, so there is good drainage, then all amendments go on top for worms to mix in evenly.
That is the general rule of thumb and surefire way to get great growth without any chance of messing things up. It is how I have done most tees I’ve planted in the past as well. I thought it was fascinating to hear the opposite advice could work as well so here is my test!
I plant in clay all the time the cool part is you can have bricks and break them down so imagine plating the tree with seeds and finish the top with seeds and golf balls of clay then plant flowers and cover with flower seeds soil and clay and grass you can create a crust and if you rake into them you can release water later on and the seeds can break the surface and allow water penetration
I see you have a bird of paradise would love to see a video of that I have one im growing indoors
Based on the thumbnail, I thought you were Huck Finn lol…love the vids.
I did that with a maple and it grew really fast.
Thanks for another great video! I have to admit that I had no idea about placing the shovel across the hole to judge the root level. Any suggestions in terms of just getting the hole dug with extremely rocky soil? I live in Virginia and my soil is clay with like, the most rocks you’ve ever seen, so I usually just dig a pretty basic hole and try not to break down in the process 😂
If it's all rocks I can see not digging so aggressively. You could even try to build up a mound above the soil a bit!
@@jacquesinthegarden thanks! I know a few other gardeners in the area who have had good luck with mounding, so I may try that this year 👍
Can't wait to see the results
I planted a ton of grass by raking it flat putting seeds like salt and 2inch of clay in 4x8ft sections starting under the corner peak of my front yard made a walkway where I can walk a garbage can or drive a riding lawnmower and I flattened out an area so there can be a sidewalk by the new fire hydrant and maintained the grass next to the road and planted so much more when they re did the road so now with it all flat and has grass I want to plant huge piles of stuff but start in pots and then plant the pots with more seeds and put rocks for voids so start with the rocks and once everything gets growing you remove the pockets to control the water shed and fill them with clay and grass and flowers and more trees and seeds and wait till the seeds plant themselves and make an incredible landscape
This is interesting! Will you get some fruit this summer? How many types of peaches are on the one tree and do they all come out at the same time? This seems like a good idea for small spaces where you could have some variety :)
I could in theory get a fruit or two but I will be fully removing any that form this year to allow the tree to focus on growing roots. This one is 3 peaches and they have varied harvest windows so instead of all of them ready at once they will form overlapping time windows over a few months!
Hi Jacques! Nice big hole! I'm planning a new garden and have been a subscriber to yours and the Epic channels for quite a while now. Then several fruit tree guild videos popped up in my UA-cam feed just this week. They are so beautiful and make so much sense that I'm changing my original design to incorporate fruit trees and in guild form. Hey you know about Permaculture - have you ever considered making fruit tree guilds? If so, then what do you think about them?
I was just wondering if you could plant those branches you cut, and put it in water and make some roots and plant again as more trees.? Would it work?
You absolutely could root them, or use them to graft onto other related trays. To root them it's usually best to place in damp soil to slow rotting but water can work sometimes. The downside is you don't have a rootstock which controls height and also offers some disease protection.
Thanks for the video Jacques. This inspired me to get another for a spot that just opened up in my yard. I decided to go with a 4 in 1 Asian Pair tree.
One thing I'm concerned about is the planting depth. I did my best to keep the feeder roots close to the surface but after I watered the tree in they are now exposed. Can I just leave them be or should I cover them with mulch or garden soil? Thanks and keep the videos coming.
I like to put a big dead log inside that the roots can latch on to. Figure it can eventually anchor itself on it. That shouldn't hurt it right? Thanks I learned alot should have subbed a long time ago.
Also put shovel sticks for shade tarps sitting shelter and stability for weather especially at first
thank you sir, we appreciate you!