The bolt is loose! Are you sure?
Вставка
- Опубліковано 15 вер 2024
- This is a short film clip on how to address the most common problem with expander bolts when used on climbing routes done on granite, gneiss and other hard or medium-hard rocks around the world.
plonk.se/
Climbing in Stockholm
27crags.com/te...
I've always wondered how these things worked...
@Drake Sterling pass i'll stick with netflix
my ears are bleeding.... :(
This is only applicable on very solid rock types such as volcanic rock, granite, etc.. For brittle rock types like limestone and sandstone I´ll say it´s more complicated.
Ahhhhhh, so that's how they work. Reassuring to know next time I clip into one...
Cant water get behind it and freeze and push out?
Size 19 wrench/spanner for 12mm bolts and size 17 wrench/spanner for 10mm bolts. So take adjustable not size 17 (and you also can tighten up quicklinks/maillons with it too!)
0:59 I know lots of those people.
this is reassuring
IT IS ME THAT IS BULTEN!!!
perfect
Can you use these on brick walls for added safety when climbing a tall ladder?
Er obviously? People hang from a rock wall thousands of feet up using them. That’s like asking if a car will work on grass
@@Cloudminster Alright pal. A simple yes would have sufficed. Be kind not rude!
@@graycleary be careful. Brick has a much different composition than hard rock. You need to do more research.
@@Cloudminster a rock wall is very different then a brick wall. I'm wondering if suck a bolt would focus all the pressure on one single brick (instead of the usual dispersion cone, on the rock wall) and thus break the brick entirely.
@@MrAchile13 A brick in a wall is not just a brick, it’s under a spread load of everything else above it. As part of a much larger structure it’s strength is very high. Also any load is spread beyond just the brick any bolt is in, that is fundamental to the structural integrity of a brick structure. If the wall was as strong as only a brick then it wouldn’t be a suitable material.
This is NOT the whole truth! There are of course circumstances where the bolt really is loose.
E.g. in Northern Frankenjura, Germany, the rock has a hard outer layer but softens below. An expansion bolt grabs in the soft rock, but the forces when climbers fall into the bolt will peel off the rock inside the drill hole, the bolt loses the grab and slowly wanders out the hole. That's why you only can trust glue-in bolts in that area.
And I am sure that there are many climbing areas (or just single crags) all around the world that have similar problems.
The only solutions might be to have a wrench and a hammer so we can see if it is possible with minimal forces applied to move the bolt in both (in and out) directions.
Absolutely this. How irresponsible is it to post a video reassuring people that the bolt isn't loose and to trust it anyway? Your life is your responsibility. Check your bolts, don't trust anything without checking and double checking. The risk/reward is just too significant to ignore.