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When you’re welding to a heavy plate like that you don’t need that extra plate. If you were welding it to the bucket which is thinner material 8” by 12” would even be better. Have a great day and thanks!
Just make it a tad bit bigger, drill in 4 holes and put it under the bolts next time. No welding, no modifications to OEM parts, just bolt on. Better IMO.
HEY!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I love your videos... used to watch you years ago!!! The moment I heard your voice I jumped onto video!!! thanks brother... hope you're doing well in texas
It all depends on the application and how much force you need to distribute across the surface area. If you're fearful of tearing the base metal then it's best to BOLT the plate to the metal instead of welding it. It's easier to replace bolt-on pieces rather than wasting time gouging off the damaged pairs.
Not only that but did you notice how close the bolt heads were to the welded on plate? No way they got a socket on those bolts. Also, the weld on the D ring is the same size no matter what size plate it is welded to. The weakest link will ALWAYS fail first.
@@frankwise7464 the weld bead itself may be the same size, but, the longer the bead is then the less towing pressure applied to each inch of weld. Distribute the pressure over more surface area makes for a stronger connection. This way even a mediocre weld can have greater strength.
@@MicahFunk agree but my point was the weld bead on the d ring itself. the ring will only support a certain length weld. bead size and penetration would be a factor but it looked like a decent weld.
@@MicahFunk Adding a plate to distribute force makes sense if you’re welding to thinner base material. Adding an extra piece of 1/2” plate on top of 1/2” plate accomplishes precisely nothing.
I myself don’t like welding stuff on if the same can be accomplished by bolting it on. In this case I may have considered fabricating a plate for the D-ring and bolting it on with only two of the (longer) bolts or for extra safety all four of them.
It would be nice to remember the exact date of these uploads when they occured on your channel. I remember watching the heck out of your vids from 2015-2018 or so prior to your JouTube ban.
didn't mention that the plate where the padeye goes may be heat treated. Any welding may remove the heat treating, so use a plate. Even be careful about drilling into heat treated parts. Could create stress risers.
Great video! I can confirm what you said about load distrobution. I do a lot of repairs on wheel trenchers and have found that 7010 HYP tends to hold up to vibration better than LH. Maybe the forces are different for my repairs. Either way the vodeo was very good.
I just welded 3/8" grab hooks on the bucket of the 570 Case we used on the property. Plenty strong even when self-extracting from mud when it sank to the frame a couple of times.
You did it the most useful spot on a loader tractor for picking things up or pulling, its only common sense to mount on the bucket. Worked at tractor dealership 45 years. Welded on 2- 3/8” hooks one on each side customers loved that set up had zero failures. When you do it right the first time, you don’t have think how iam going to fix when it fails ? Lol
My buddy wants to install hooks on his Kubota L2501 bucket and I wanted to do something similar to this setup. I may build a bracket for a D ring while I am at it. Cool video.
I got a set of three 3/8 hooks with backer plates and fasteners all zinc plated for $39 from Amazon. Probably not worth building them yourself. I will say bolting them on is a pain though... Welding would be easier, but doesn't transfer the load all the way thru to the other side (if the bucket has a tube at the top) and requires repainting things.
I’ve got a 2501 tractor and welded 3 hooks on top of the bucket…just used a 220 mig welder on 6 for good penetration.. Been that way for 4 years now and used quite a lot….no issues.
Regarding the plate to distribute the force. Wouldn't the plate now become "one with" the OEM part and the D ring is still being pulled at that small surface area on the plate itself? In other words putting the D-ring on the OEM part would just make the pulling force concentrated on a small area. But with the plate there wouldn't the D-ring's small pulling area be now on the plate?
@@hattersequiptmentrepairllc4661 Yep but 4 bolts are easy to find, cheap and makes for a ring that can be removed and replaced if damaged., And I agree, wasted plate, should have just welded the D ring to the Guard, being it is heavy steel and be done with it.
If the d-ring is in the middle, sufficient force will lift the plate away. That will in turn side-load the bolts to the point they could shear. Especially if the pull is not perpendicular. That's also why he added the plate in the first place. Increase rigidity and distribute the load closer to the bolts.
@@shawnbottom4769 IF the bolts are at risk of Shear they are also at risk now being in the same location. The weak point is the weld on D ring. If it was bolted on it would be the same weak point would be the weld at the D ring.
To determine the appropriate D-ring, take the weight of the machine and add 50%. Guaranteed to be utilizable if the piece of equipment is disabled or stuck.
Would it not be better to make the D-ring assembly much stronger so if you get stuck below the axles you can still pull it out. The normal weight of the machine, for example 10,000#, would be doubled to 20,000# for the D-ring. This allows for the tractor to be pulled out but if you have equipment on the 3-point hitch, you can pull it out too. If you want more, than install 2 D-rings which are welded and bolted to increase the strength. These are my thoughts but I'm not a welder nor am I an engineer (two of my sons are, so I would need to talk with them).
@@cliffterrell4876 Ah, I come from the automotive side of things and it's a lot easier to find something that can handle double or more of the weight of lighter duty vehicles.
Not really the ideal application for one of those D rings. Only designed for straight pulling force. On the front of your tractor there is a good chance you will need pull st 45deg if you get bogged. Bold or weld who cares but as you went to the trouble of making a nice base plate you may ax well have bolted it on
One one these days i want to add like 5/8 d rings onto my trl for tie downs. Im planning plasma cutting out 3x4 spot and getting a 4x5 half inch or so plate and getting it milled 1/4 inch down on edges to fit the 3x4 hole so it can get welded on 2 separate areas. Im thinking 6 or 8 d rings should do me
I think that the plate is overkill. The weld on the D ring is so much smaller than the plate and would get ripped off before you could bend the 1/2" plate.
Exactly. "Distributing the force" with the plate makes no sense because it's still the same force on the small piece that holds the D ring whether it's on a plate or on the base material. That's the point that's going to fail and putting it on a plate changes nothing.
Would it be possible to MIG weld a D ring on as long as you use the correct voltage and wire speed? Some welders say it's just as strong some welders say it's not?
Of course, but remove all paint, rust, grease, etc first! And that’s taking for granted you have something bigger than those little 120 volt wire welders!
As much as I like over building things, that add on plate was way overkill especially with the location of those heavy bolts you could literally pick that tractor straight up if you had a crane.
I don't know how you are making money laying down crappy ass welds like that. Not to mention the plate that you made was so close to the bolt holes that the welds interfered with the bolts needing grinding ro make them clear.
That is the weakest point and direction for that setup. The only thing holding the load is the threads themselves, you get zero bolt sheer strength. If the load is corned say low and to the right, it will pull on one of the bolt's threads significantly more than the others making it even weaker. It would have been better to cut a hole in the steel between the bolts and mount something like a receiver setup that mounted to the frame itself. Many significant accidents come from setups like this. Threads can sheer a little at a time over many years and then give way when needed. At the very least the bolts should have been reversed to enable inspection. Look at the front of a dump truck for ideas on the right way to do it.
These are grade 8.8 bolts, if they are M16, they are each rated to hold 20,000 lbs of tensile strength. They won't yield until at least 22,000lbs. And that's just one bolt. One bolt alone could hold the entire weight of this tractor in the air plus some, and there's 4 of them. I think he's good. The D ring itself would probably snap in half way before these bolts would give way.
Fine thread bolts can only survive the equivalent load as their coarse thread counterpart when they are installed in soft materials like aluminum. Coarse thread bolts survive best in stronger materials like steel. Fine thread bolts installed in steel put under load will leave the bolts threads in the steel. Coarse thread bolts installed in aluminum will remove the threads from the aluminum with equal loads applied. Your attempt to educate people would be a lot more successful when you learn the facts about what you are talking about.
It is insane to weld D ring on frame because it is to easier made new plate, weld D riing on it and take longer bolts and than put it on frame. This way with welding You mamke frame much softer and unsafe.
@@ThatToast Uhhhh...... Let me think....... Heavy Equipment.... Like a Excavator..... Lots of Gussets !!! Hmmmm.... Who knows more Heavy Equipment Manufacturers...... or You.... Nope Definitely NOT YOU !!!!
marijan vidic Uhhhh...... Let me think....... Heavy Equipment.... Like a Excavator..... Lots of Gussets !!! Hmmmm.... Who knows more Heavy Equipment Manufacturers...... or You.... Nope Definitely NOT YOU !!!!
this dude is sketchey, he did not know one end of a welder from the other 5 years ago, and now is offering engineering advice. welding a 1/2" plate to a 1/2" plate is pointless, making that plate so large that it now impedes the bolts and the ability to put a socket on them. and if the plate you are welding all this to is bolted on, then your load rating is determined by that! The comment section contains more valuable info than this video. Sad , but that brand new tractor he is working on has been paid for by creating this kind of questionable content. stange world we live in.
Its called learning as you go. I bet you are one of those folks who knew everything out of the womb right? If you know so much why don't you contribute instead of being a jagoff
You are talking about metric and standard? Metric is the standard unit, even in the not so United states of America. You should talk about metric and a obsolete unit that is defined by metric.
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When you’re welding to a heavy plate like that you don’t need that extra plate. If you were welding it to the bucket which is thinner material 8” by 12” would even be better. Have a great day and thanks!
Those are my thoughts too.
Awesome video great to see you back on UA-cam! Can you post your old welding process tutorials!?
Just make it a tad bit bigger, drill in 4 holes and put it under the bolts next time. No welding, no modifications to OEM parts, just bolt on. Better IMO.
If he did that you would be putting a heck of a lot of pull on four bolts.
How much force and loading can they take vs his welds?
@@Ariceater The bolts are still taking all the load. They hold the whole thing onto the tractor.
HEY!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I love your videos... used to watch you years ago!!! The moment I heard your voice I jumped onto video!!! thanks brother... hope you're doing well in texas
Me too! I was so glad to see his familiar face. Hope all is well there.
It all depends on the application and how much force you need to distribute across the surface area. If you're fearful of tearing the base metal then it's best to BOLT the plate to the metal instead of welding it. It's easier to replace bolt-on pieces rather than wasting time gouging off the damaged pairs.
Not only that but did you notice how close the bolt heads were to the welded on plate? No way they got a socket on those bolts. Also, the weld on the D ring is the same size no matter what size plate it is welded to. The weakest link will ALWAYS fail first.
@@frankwise7464 the weld bead itself may be the same size, but, the longer the bead is then the less towing pressure applied to each inch of weld. Distribute the pressure over more surface area makes for a stronger connection. This way even a mediocre weld can have greater strength.
@@MicahFunk agree but my point was the weld bead on the d ring itself. the ring will only support a certain length weld. bead size and penetration would be a factor but it looked like a decent weld.
never bolt always weld , i aint got time for all that
@@MicahFunk Adding a plate to distribute force makes sense if you’re welding to thinner base material. Adding an extra piece of 1/2” plate on top of 1/2” plate accomplishes precisely nothing.
I myself don’t like welding stuff on if the same can be accomplished by bolting it on. In this case I may have considered fabricating a plate for the D-ring and bolting it on with only two of the (longer) bolts or for extra safety all four of them.
I’m happy to see you posting again, great material.
It would be nice to remember the exact date of these uploads when they occured on your channel. I remember watching the heck out of your vids from 2015-2018 or so prior to your JouTube ban.
Awesome thanks for sharing your expertise and knowledge with the world!
Great idea, thinking I’ll put one on my LS. Thanks for the excellent video & usable tips! 👍
didn't mention that the plate where the padeye goes may be heat treated. Any welding may remove the heat treating, so use a plate. Even be careful about drilling into heat treated parts.
Could create stress risers.
Call me strange... I'd make the plate large enough that the bolts trap it too. (longer bolts)
Overkill is almost enough.
Getting the proper metric fasteners could be hard to find or very expensive, they would need to be 12.9 grade and are hard to get some times.
Great video! I can confirm what you said about load distrobution. I do a lot of repairs on wheel trenchers and have found that 7010 HYP tends to hold up to vibration better than LH. Maybe the forces are different for my repairs. Either way the vodeo was very good.
Hey😃😁👋👋Dougie. I found you again, I miss watching your projects you worked on. Awesome 😎!!
I just welded 3/8" grab hooks on the bucket of the 570 Case we used on the property. Plenty strong even when self-extracting from mud when it sank to the frame a couple of times.
@TakeDeadAim Depends on where they are mounted.
You did it the most useful spot on a loader tractor for picking things up or pulling, its only common sense to mount on the bucket. Worked at tractor dealership 45 years. Welded on 2- 3/8” hooks one on each side customers loved that set up had zero failures. When you do it right the first time, you don’t have think how iam going to fix when it fails ? Lol
Thanks for sharing your videos and keep them coming please.
My buddy wants to install hooks on his Kubota L2501 bucket and I wanted to do something similar to this setup. I may build a bracket for a D ring while I am at it. Cool video.
I got a set of three 3/8 hooks with backer plates and fasteners all zinc plated for $39 from Amazon. Probably not worth building them yourself.
I will say bolting them on is a pain though... Welding would be easier, but doesn't transfer the load all the way thru to the other side (if the bucket has a tube at the top) and requires repainting things.
I’ve got a 2501 tractor and welded 3 hooks on top of the bucket…just used a 220 mig welder on 6 for good penetration..
Been that way for 4 years now and used quite a lot….no issues.
you told me something that I never knew 😊🙏 and thank, you for you're video very understanding and helpful never forget this.
Oh man, I absolutely love your choice in music. Honest.
So many credits..nice job,very heavy duty. Nice video's.
Always good advice
Have missed you and your traktors
I used to follow u ... Long time, good to see you !
Am literally doing this on the trailer tomorrow! Perfect timing
Regarding the plate to distribute the force. Wouldn't the plate now become "one with" the OEM part and the D ring is still being pulled at that small surface area on the plate itself? In other words putting the D-ring on the OEM part would just make the pulling force concentrated on a small area. But with the plate there wouldn't the D-ring's small pulling area be now on the plate?
Did not know that about the bolts, thank you,! Don’t you love it when someone uses an impact wrench util it stalls out.
Chuckie2009? Man, it's been forever since I've seen his face.
Good to see you again. Good video
If you are making a plate why not just make the plate and bolt it on using the same bolt holes in the guard?
Probably have to chase
Longer bolts down to do that. Plus wasted plate for lil benefit
@@hattersequiptmentrepairllc4661 Yep but 4 bolts are easy to find, cheap and makes for a ring that can be removed and replaced if damaged., And I agree, wasted plate, should have just welded the D ring to the Guard, being it is heavy steel and be done with it.
If the d-ring is in the middle, sufficient force will lift the plate away. That will in turn side-load the bolts to the point they could shear. Especially if the pull is not perpendicular. That's also why he added the plate in the first place. Increase rigidity and distribute the load closer to the bolts.
@@shawnbottom4769 IF the bolts are at risk of Shear they are also at risk now being in the same location. The weak point is the weld on D ring. If it was bolted on it would be the same weak point would be the weld at the D ring.
Remember watching this episode on the old Channel
that plate in the middle was actually crazy smart and I would have never thought of it.
per size course thread bolts are stronger at clamping forces
Nice job
I would have cut a plate to match the bolt holes and use longer bolts, better job no welding
Beautiful, don’t break ur tractor😎
To determine the appropriate D-ring, take the weight of the machine and add 50%. Guaranteed to be utilizable if the piece of equipment is disabled or stuck.
I thought it was double?
@@rockdem0n not for straight pull. For lifting it's double.
Would it not be better to make the D-ring assembly much stronger so if you get stuck below the axles you can still pull it out. The normal weight of the machine, for example 10,000#, would be doubled to 20,000# for the D-ring. This allows for the tractor to be pulled out but if you have equipment on the 3-point hitch, you can pull it out too. If you want more, than install 2 D-rings which are welded and bolted to increase the strength. These are my thoughts but I'm not a welder nor am I an engineer (two of my sons are, so I would need to talk with them).
@@cliffterrell4876 Ah, I come from the automotive side of things and it's a lot easier to find something that can handle double or more of the weight of lighter duty vehicles.
Glad I found this!
A+ on the execution. Is there a scenario where just wrapping a chain or straps around it wouldn’t get the job done though?
Probably not, as long as you have extra chain. Also convenience.
I like to leave a 304 or 316 stainless weld for the elements to try to rust on…..
Great info!
Bro . I remember you from a few years ago. I hope you’re doing well and hope you’re still on the path?
Still “our Guy” ???
I love welding .
Good to see you.
Not really the ideal application for one of those D rings. Only designed for straight pulling force. On the front of your tractor there is a good chance you will need pull st 45deg if you get bogged. Bold or weld who cares but as you went to the trouble of making a nice base plate you may ax well have bolted it on
Mine was the 2009th Thumbs Up 🙌
Good advice buddy
hi there well done john
One one these days i want to add like 5/8 d rings onto my trl for tie downs. Im planning plasma cutting out 3x4 spot and getting a 4x5 half inch or so plate and getting it milled 1/4 inch down on edges to fit the 3x4 hole so it can get welded on 2 separate areas. Im thinking 6 or 8 d rings should do me
Great idea!.
Just curious - why not longer bolts and just bolt a plate with the dring welded to it?
I missed your old channel
great vid
Can you still get a socket on those bolts now?
I had just welded d rings on my trailer is it as important to plate those as well?
great video, but Im not sure fine threaded bolts withstand more stress than course threaded ?
Um ...more surface area is incontact on fine thread.
Minor diameter is larger on a fine thread bolt vs coarse thread=more strength
Are you still doing videos .long time
Cuts that jagged with a plasma cutter? Think I’d find me a better welding shop.
I think that the plate is overkill. The weld on the D ring is so much smaller than the plate and would get ripped off before you could bend the 1/2" plate.
Exactly. "Distributing the force" with the plate makes no sense because it's still the same force on the small piece that holds the D ring whether it's on a plate or on the base material. That's the point that's going to fail and putting it on a plate changes nothing.
WTH , where's your plasma table
Wondered if your helper was still around
Can also choose a brand with a front pull point. I have a pull fin on the front from factory thats part of the frame.
Why would you need to distribute the force on a piece that’s fully capable by itself
I suggest you turn your amps down or slow down your tie in , all the welds I've seen you do have been undercut .
I kinda doubt it...
@@frankbagbey8372 30 years of experience say's you're wrong
Seems like I've seen you do this years ago
I disagree with you a little on a few things. One failing point is better than two (your plate you added), and weave welds are better than stacked. 😅
Weave welds aren’t as strong as stringer beads, and aren’t code in most places.
Would it be possible to MIG weld a D ring on as long as you use the correct voltage and wire speed? Some welders say it's just as strong some welders say it's not?
Some of the largest, most critical weld joints on US warships, is done with a mug welder. Most automated welding is mig.
Of course, but remove all paint, rust, grease, etc first! And that’s taking for granted you have something bigger than those little 120 volt wire welders!
I wouldn't trust mig welding D-rings. Not enough penetration area.
@@tomt9543 I have a 240 volt mig welder and I use my stick welder for D-rings. 7014 or 7018.
Pre-heating lets you MIG weld some insanely thick stock, get it up to 350-400 degrees.
such a MOE RON
As much as I like over building things, that add on plate was way overkill especially with the location of those heavy bolts you could literally pick that tractor straight up if you had a crane.
Վոնց կարելի է գնել այս գործիքից
Whaaat? Youre allowed to work on your own equipment??
I don't know how you are making money laying down crappy ass welds like that. Not to mention the plate that you made was so close to the bolt holes that the welds interfered with the bolts needing grinding ro make them clear.
Gotta love armchair experts.
@@randomschittz9461 I'm far from armchair, been laying beads for over 20 years.
@@gastoncastro2788 sure buddy
@@randomschittz9461 Whatever, sounds like you don't know how to weld either. Hahaha Besides why are you white knightingfor this dude? WTF!?!?
@@gastoncastro2788 sounds like nothing, I typed a few words nagger
I would have made the plate large enough to use those 4 bolt holes then longer bolts
I think the video was mostly about you and barely about the D ring
That is the weakest point and direction for that setup. The only thing holding the load is the threads themselves, you get zero bolt sheer strength. If the load is corned say low and to the right, it will pull on one of the bolt's threads significantly more than the others making it even weaker. It would have been better to cut a hole in the steel between the bolts and mount something like a receiver setup that mounted to the frame itself. Many significant accidents come from setups like this. Threads can sheer a little at a time over many years and then give way when needed. At the very least the bolts should have been reversed to enable inspection. Look at the front of a dump truck for ideas on the right way to do it.
These are grade 8.8 bolts, if they are M16, they are each rated to hold 20,000 lbs of tensile strength. They won't yield until at least 22,000lbs. And that's just one bolt. One bolt alone could hold the entire weight of this tractor in the air plus some, and there's 4 of them. I think he's good. The D ring itself would probably snap in half way before these bolts would give way.
Chucke2000??
Fine thread bolts can only survive the equivalent load as their coarse thread counterpart when they are installed in soft materials like aluminum.
Coarse thread bolts survive best in stronger materials like steel.
Fine thread bolts installed in steel put under load will leave the bolts threads in the steel.
Coarse thread bolts installed in aluminum will remove the threads from the aluminum with equal loads applied.
Your attempt to educate people would be a lot more successful when you learn the facts about what you are talking about.
Or you could've made the plate with holes in it and got longer cap screws to account for the thickness of the plate.
Plus he can't weld
Been wondering what your girlfriend looked like finally got a quick glimpse 2:30 how to you sweet talk her into the shop to do work for you?
I KNEW IT!!
🤪🤪🤪🤪🤪🤪
turn the friggen music down will ya, also turn yer mic up so we can hear ya..
FFS!!! Turn down the music!!! JFC!
5 seconds in, I’m asking “why not just attach the chain to part of the front of the tractor instead?”
It is insane to weld D ring on frame because it is to easier made new plate, weld D riing on it and take longer bolts and than put it on frame. This way with welding You mamke frame much softer and unsafe.
No, he is not welding a flimsy thin car frame
Its plate steel, nothing got weaker on the frame
Nemas ti pojma
🤣😂🤣
@@doninikbatista1892 Welding ruins the temper of the steel
@@ThatToast Uhhhh...... Let me think....... Heavy Equipment.... Like a Excavator..... Lots of Gussets !!! Hmmmm.... Who knows more Heavy Equipment Manufacturers...... or You.... Nope Definitely NOT YOU !!!!
marijan vidic Uhhhh...... Let me think....... Heavy Equipment.... Like a Excavator..... Lots of Gussets !!! Hmmmm.... Who knows more Heavy Equipment Manufacturers...... or You.... Nope Definitely NOT YOU !!!!
What a crap job....new tractor deserves a better job
Novice..🤣🤣🤣
Evidently he's using cheap Chinese equipment
🇺🇸👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
🇹🇹🇹🇹🙏🙏❤❤
this dude is sketchey, he did not know one end of a welder from the other 5 years ago, and now is offering engineering advice.
welding a 1/2" plate to a 1/2" plate is pointless, making that plate so large that it now impedes the bolts and the ability to put a socket on them. and if the plate you are welding all this to is bolted on, then your load rating is determined by that!
The comment section contains more valuable info than this video. Sad , but that brand new tractor he is working on has been paid for by creating this kind of questionable content. stange world we live in.
Its called learning as you go. I bet you are one of those folks who knew everything out of the womb right? If you know so much why don't you contribute instead of being a jagoff
I FORGOT MORE ABOUT WELDING THEN YOU WILL EVER KNOW
Looks crooked to me wasted my time
You are talking about metric and standard? Metric is the standard unit, even in the not so United states of America. You should talk about metric and a obsolete unit that is defined by metric.