I'd forgotten I had the audio track still attached when I cut the video lol. Really irritating? what like stone stuck in your shoe kind of irritating or getting Rick rolled kind of irritating?
@mybritishcomputerguy For me, at least, more like the stone in the shoe, but the video was good enough that I tried to ignore it. BTW, I am of retirement age (just), so perhaps that is also a factor. Thanks for asking.
@@mybritishcomputerguyOld school IT with the J. People mock me when I pronounce JSON as jaySun and not jaySahn. We, old guys, were calling it jaySun before most graduated primary school. You do you Boo!
OK my post got deleted, might be because I suggested how to get these boards even cheaper, but no worries. Anyways, in the LED Preferences you might want to increase the Maximum Current to 2000-2400mA as most battery banks should be able to do that and the brightness is much better.
I didn't see any other message? If you know of somewhere cheaper to get these please do share! Finding inexpensive LED matrix panels is only part of my initiative. I also want to help educate on how to set these up. Thanks @gordon861
True, DIN and DOUT. However It still isn't too clear as to which is the first pixel, but great point if you've cut off the connectors and need to know which is data in. Thanks for pointing that out.
That's a really good question, I think someone already answered this which I'm happy about lol. I know you can link multiple panels, you'd probably have to tinker with the Segments though to get it set up correctly.
Could you upload/send me a version of your 3d case with modified hole sizes? I've been trying to modify your STL to add a 2.1mm jack port (7.6mm) next to the switch and expanding the switch hole to 15mm - both of which are common sizes for parts from aliexpress but have so far been unsuccessful :( Otherwise, great work and keep em coming!
@garrukapex6693 tbh, if i put the holes in and send you it, it still may not be accurate. What I can do, when I get up in a few hours is make a blank section, so you can put your own holes in it. Would that work? I can upload it to Thingiverse. just let me know.
@@mybritishcomputerguy That would be good - could you upload it as a .step file? Thanks, and thanks for being so responsive: you've earned a subscriber :)
Ok, sorry for the delay, Added No Holes version to Thingiverse. Not sure what a .STEP file is, could only output in .STL format. I hope that is still helpful. Thanks for the sub!
Lol, good luck finding one that price. Maybe on AliExpress. But you'll have to wait for it... and that's if it ever shows up. I have an order in right now with them for 3 panels to review. Still not received them, a day the order was placed a month ago 😕
Hi Christopher, that's a great question. I'll try and answer.. and I hope I'm understanding your question correctly.. It depends on a couple of factors. First of all, USB C power supplies are usually smart switching and they use circuitry in the plug or the device they are connecting to, to know how many Watts of power to draw. LED Matrices and ESP32's by default do not include any such circuitry, so if you were to hook up a USB-C power supply to the positive and negative inputs on an ESP-32 or your LED Matrices it won't know how much power to send and will likely not send enough power to even turn on the ESP32. Let's now assume that you were able to use something to fool the USB-C power supply into thinking it needs to supply 65W of power to your ESP32 project or your Panels. 1st let's look at the panels, so, to make things even we'll say we are wanting to power 4 of the 16x16 matrices. that would make a total of 1024 Pixels. You would need to figure out how much power it would take to power them adequately. To do that multiply the number of pixels by 0.06mA as that is what you would require to power at full bright White, which consumes the most current. So in this situation you would require 61.44Amps (most patterns don't require that much power so I'd say 50% of that would work quite nicely). If you had a 65W 5VDC Power Supply then the Ampage is calculated by dividing 65W by 5V so your power supply is only capable of producing 13Amps of current, which is considerably short of what you would really need. That's not to say that you wouldn't be able to power them. You could set WLED to a max current draw of 13000mA and power inject at each of the 3 points on the matrices and it would work. You just wouldn't get a super bright display. Remember though, most patterns don't require any where near as much as power as 61.44Amps. So I would say a 30Amp power supply would probably work quite well for most patterns and effects. After typing all this I'm now wondering if you are referring to the onboard USB connector (which is actually a Micro-USB, not USB-C) the answer to that would be not really, as that can only handle 1Amp of power. I hope this is helpful information. Have a great day. Be sure to post a video of your project once you get it up and running, I love seeing what everyone else is doing with Matrix panels.
@@mybritishcomputerguy Originally I wanted to be able to power the panels with powerbanks, but I think I'll multiply the power supplies (like a 5V 15A power supply for 2 16x16 panels) initially. Thank you for your explanation.
I think I mentioned that in one on my comments on Reddit, my only problem with Ali Express is that you have to wait a long time to get them. I only review items that I actually have. If they show up, then they are content worthy and a trusted supplier in my opinion. I placed an order with Ali Express about a month ago for some panels to test and they still haven't shown up. If they ever do I will review those too! Thanks for your comment though. I'm always on the lookout for some inexpensive quality panels.
🤣 really? I don't think there is a lower volume setting lol. Thanks for taking time to let me know though. I'll do my best to make it extra quiet for you in the next video
I'm sorry but I have to agree, the music is a bit too loud and distracting, however, I think it's more a case of your voice being too low in the mix, I have to turn up the volume to hear you clearly (I don't have to do this with other peoples videos) so unfortunately the music gets louder as well. 🙁 Anyway, besides that you have done a very good job with your video and setup description for these panels, so much so, I have now bought a couple of the panels to experiment with, and I have subscribed as well. I did post an earlier reply but it doesn't seem to have appeared, maybe because I added a link to Amazon UK for the panels, for those like myself who are in the UK, as you were not able to do this.
Yeah I think youtube is a bit funny about people posting links in the comment section. I will see if I can find UK links next time seeingsewi Thanks for the sub. As for the music, I switched to using an external mic, to bring up my voice level in future videos. I hope you're having fun playing with the panels.
@mybritishcomputerguy would have bought 4 if that was 14.79 gpb, seller is not in the UK site mate. Thanks for the explanation on setting it up tho, I have a dig-uno with a 3266 hardware to use for the 32*8 panels.
Well they're not really $14.79 are they, you've got to factor in taxes and shipping, your a Brit but didn't provide a UK Amazon link, so shipping is $9 more, plus 20% on top for the govt. All said and done other sellers that do operate on Amazon UK provide deals that offset all these extra fees, so your claim of ultra cheap LED panels is all moot.
Yes.. they really are some of the cheapest panels, $14.79 where I live is cheap, the cheapest on Amazon USA (as of today)..I guess you made an assumption that because I'm a brit I should be living in the UK? I've actually been living in the USA for the past 23 years. I would have shown the price in pounds sterling had I been living in the UK, and not been showing prices in dollars. I have no idea what the pricing is in the UK, common sense would have dictated that if you bought these from Amazon.Com and not Amazon.co.uk while residing in the UK then you'd have to pay shipping, taxes, VAT etc... I wish I was able to do comparisons on prices for all countries in all currencies, but obviously that's not feasible. Hopefully you found he tutorial part of the video at least helpful.
Thanks for a great demo/review/tutorial, you've earned yourself another sub, Sir!
Awesome, thank you!
Great content, a very easy to follow demonstration. I will be trying it out in the future.
Thanks Simon, I appreciate the feedback. If you create something let me know. I'd love to check it out!
Excellent video, I’m diving into WLED now thanks!
Thanks so much!
Nice. Ok. This is what I needed to understand. Watching others to figure out how to program
Are you working on a project Sanz?
To tell the #1 led .. look at each corner.. you will see 3 copper pads and 2 IC's next to #1
I like your music.
Lol - you broke Amazon. Both are SOLD OUT! You are an influencer! Congrats.
Dang, I'll keep looking for alternatives! It's every now and again I find a gem of a deal.
The WESIRI ones are back in stock! this was the brand from my first video. I updated the link in the description! sweet
Useful, thanks. And I'm sorry, but for me, the music is *really irritating* and adds nothing helpful to the video.
I'd forgotten I had the audio track still attached when I cut the video lol. Really irritating? what like stone stuck in your shoe kind of irritating or getting Rick rolled kind of irritating?
@mybritishcomputerguy For me, at least, more like the stone in the shoe, but the video was good enough that I tried to ignore it. BTW, I am of retirement age (just), so perhaps that is also a factor. Thanks for asking.
If you look at the back you also can see where the first led is, they labelt DIN AND DOUT 👍😎
For data that's true, it doesn't indicate which is the first pixel though.
It’s Gif with a G not a J. lol. The G stands for graphic. So you make the G sound.
Actually it's a J sound. Trust me on this one. According to the inventor that's how he wanted it pronounced
@@mybritishcomputerguyOld school IT with the J. People mock me when I pronounce JSON as jaySun and not jaySahn. We, old guys, were calling it jaySun before most graduated primary school. You do you Boo!
Disculpe amigo exelente video pero Ami no me sale la app al conectarlo al wifi
OK my post got deleted, might be because I suggested how to get these boards even cheaper, but no worries. Anyways, in the LED Preferences you might want to increase the Maximum Current to 2000-2400mA as most battery banks should be able to do that and the brightness is much better.
I didn't see any other message? If you know of somewhere cheaper to get these please do share! Finding inexpensive LED matrix panels is only part of my initiative. I also want to help educate on how to set these up. Thanks @gordon861
@@mybritishcomputerguysent you an email
The wires are also labeled in and out on the back...
True, DIN and DOUT. However It still isn't too clear as to which is the first pixel, but great point if you've cut off the connectors and need to know which is data in. Thanks for pointing that out.
What about linking multiple panels together, especially mismatched sizes. Can the software handle that?
Yes in the 2D settings and modify the X and Y
That's a really good question, I think someone already answered this which I'm happy about lol. I know you can link multiple panels, you'd probably have to tinker with the Segments though to get it set up correctly.
Could you upload/send me a version of your 3d case with modified hole sizes? I've been trying to modify your STL to add a 2.1mm jack port (7.6mm) next to the switch and expanding the switch hole to 15mm - both of which are common sizes for parts from aliexpress but have so far been unsuccessful :(
Otherwise, great work and keep em coming!
@garrukapex6693 tbh, if i put the holes in and send you it, it still may not be accurate. What I can do, when I get up in a few hours is make a blank section, so you can put your own holes in it. Would that work? I can upload it to Thingiverse. just let me know.
@@mybritishcomputerguy That would be good - could you upload it as a .step file?
Thanks, and thanks for being so responsive: you've earned a subscriber :)
Ok, sorry for the delay, Added No Holes version to Thingiverse. Not sure what a .STEP file is, could only output in .STL format. I hope that is still helpful. Thanks for the sub!
I just found an 8x8 panel for only a dollar.
nice, sounds like an AliExpress promo for new customers lol. If only the larger panels were as cheap!
@@mybritishcomputerguy I bought twenty 8x8 panels, solder it together and i have 40x32 panel. Now, i have to buy a new power supply to power it.
@@insomnolentcrow That's a lot of soldering!
@@mybritishcomputerguy soldering is the easy part, stripping the wires took a lot of time.
The Amazon links take me to Amazon in the USA so I presume that is where you are located despite your English accent?!
Yup, livin' in Texas, been stateside for over 20 years!
16x16 should no more than $7 including shipping 😂
Lol, good luck finding one that price. Maybe on AliExpress. But you'll have to wait for it... and that's if it ever shows up. I have an order in right now with them for 3 panels to review. Still not received them, a day the order was placed a month ago 😕
nice video, Can you power 4 or 5 16x16 panels with the 65W USB-C output ?
Hi Christopher, that's a great question. I'll try and answer.. and I hope I'm understanding your question correctly.. It depends on a couple of factors. First of all, USB C power supplies are usually smart switching and they use circuitry in the plug or the device they are connecting to, to know how many Watts of power to draw. LED Matrices and ESP32's by default do not include any such circuitry, so if you were to hook up a USB-C power supply to the positive and negative inputs on an ESP-32 or your LED Matrices it won't know how much power to send and will likely not send enough power to even turn on the ESP32.
Let's now assume that you were able to use something to fool the USB-C power supply into thinking it needs to supply 65W of power to your ESP32 project or your Panels. 1st let's look at the panels, so, to make things even we'll say we are wanting to power 4 of the 16x16 matrices. that would make a total of 1024 Pixels. You would need to figure out how much power it would take to power them adequately. To do that multiply the number of pixels by 0.06mA as that is what you would require to power at full bright White, which consumes the most current. So in this situation you would require 61.44Amps (most patterns don't require that much power so I'd say 50% of that would work quite nicely). If you had a 65W 5VDC Power Supply then the Ampage is calculated by dividing 65W by 5V so your power supply is only capable of producing 13Amps of current, which is considerably short of what you would really need. That's not to say that you wouldn't be able to power them. You could set WLED to a max current draw of 13000mA and power inject at each of the 3 points on the matrices and it would work. You just wouldn't get a super bright display. Remember though, most patterns don't require any where near as much as power as 61.44Amps. So I would say a 30Amp power supply would probably work quite well for most patterns and effects.
After typing all this I'm now wondering if you are referring to the onboard USB connector (which is actually a Micro-USB, not USB-C) the answer to that would be not really, as that can only handle 1Amp of power.
I hope this is helpful information. Have a great day. Be sure to post a video of your project once you get it up and running, I love seeing what everyone else is doing with Matrix panels.
@@mybritishcomputerguy Originally I wanted to be able to power the panels with powerbanks, but I think I'll multiply the power supplies (like a 5V 15A power supply for 2 16x16 panels) initially. Thank you for your explanation.
You're welcome, if you do that be sure that all panels and ESP32 have a common ground.@@christophemoreau1282
Half price on Ali. Same product.
I think I mentioned that in one on my comments on Reddit, my only problem with Ali Express is that you have to wait a long time to get them. I only review items that I actually have. If they show up, then they are content worthy and a trusted supplier in my opinion. I placed an order with Ali Express about a month ago for some panels to test and they still haven't shown up. If they ever do I will review those too! Thanks for your comment though. I'm always on the lookout for some inexpensive quality panels.
Music is too loud, It is competing with the speaker's voice.
🤣 really? I don't think there is a lower volume setting lol. Thanks for taking time to let me know though. I'll do my best to make it extra quiet for you in the next video
I'm sorry but I have to agree, the music is a bit too loud and distracting, however, I think it's more a case of your voice being too low in the mix, I have to turn up the volume to hear you clearly (I don't have to do this with other peoples videos) so unfortunately the music gets louder as well. 🙁
Anyway, besides that you have done a very good job with your video and setup description for these panels, so much so, I have now bought a couple of the panels to experiment with, and I have subscribed as well.
I did post an earlier reply but it doesn't seem to have appeared, maybe because I added a link to Amazon UK for the panels, for those like myself who are in the UK, as you were not able to do this.
Yeah I think youtube is a bit funny about people posting links in the comment section. I will see if I can find UK links next time seeingsewi Thanks for the sub. As for the music, I switched to using an external mic, to bring up my voice level in future videos. I hope you're having fun playing with the panels.
US based only and up in price now.
Checked price just now, still 14.79
@@mybritishcomputerguy when you factor in all the tax, delivery charges to the UK, is just over 24gbp mate.
I'm in Texas, I haven't been UK side in a minute, I don't know how that compares to what we pay over here. I'm guessing pretty high?@@spats6432
@mybritishcomputerguy would have bought 4 if that was 14.79 gpb, seller is not in the UK site mate.
Thanks for the explanation on setting it up tho, I have a dig-uno with a 3266 hardware to use for the 32*8 panels.
@@spats6432 Nice, be sure to share your finished build. What are you making?
it's pronounced "gif"
You mean Gif? or do you mean Gif? lol
Well they're not really $14.79 are they, you've got to factor in taxes and shipping, your a Brit but didn't provide a UK Amazon link, so shipping is $9 more, plus 20% on top for the govt. All said and done other sellers that do operate on Amazon UK provide deals that offset all these extra fees, so your claim of ultra cheap LED panels is all moot.
Yes.. they really are some of the cheapest panels, $14.79 where I live is cheap, the cheapest on Amazon USA (as of today)..I guess you made an assumption that because I'm a brit I should be living in the UK? I've actually been living in the USA for the past 23 years. I would have shown the price in pounds sterling had I been living in the UK, and not been showing prices in dollars. I have no idea what the pricing is in the UK, common sense would have dictated that if you bought these from Amazon.Com and not Amazon.co.uk while residing in the UK then you'd have to pay shipping, taxes, VAT etc... I wish I was able to do comparisons on prices for all countries in all currencies, but obviously that's not feasible. Hopefully you found he tutorial part of the video at least helpful.