NOTE: I’ve switched since doing this video to using Master All Purpose Contact Cement by Petronio. This is what a lot of professional cobblers use. It’s better. I got it on eBay from eBay seller Nordshoe.
@@FrambhueeeSORRY for missing your comment! These particular ones I used in this video are a little on the thin side and a little softer than I like. They're okay, and the amount of wear of course depends on how often you wear the shoes, your build, where you wear them (indoors vs pavement), etc. They lasted over a year wearing them on pavement, but I don't wear them more than once a weeek. I now like this stuff: "SoleTech Mini-Check Rubber Sole-Guard Soling Sheet, 1.2mm Black" I got it from Amazon. I'll update the description too.
I found your videos because I resell vintage clothing and shoes, I learned to restore heels but I wasnt sure how to go about restoring loafers. Your videos not only helped me in restoration aspect but your very informative videos taught me alot about leather types and with some luck I managed to find a pair of shell cordovan aldens for about 4 bucks the very next day!
Hi Bob. I was getting ready for bed when the ‘notification’ came in from UA-cam informing me that you just uploaded this video. I’m really glad i stayed up to watch and learn a bit about how to add a half sole to a new pair of AE shoes. I agree with you; as you get better with each one of your Cobbler projects. You should be very proud of the outcome with your new McAllister shoes. The new half soles look great on the shoes, and I’m sure they will help you navigate the Northern Ohio winter weather. Another fine job and a great video! I like the background music, as well...Ed
As usual, another well done job, I can't tell you how much I have learned watching your videos, and I saved a lot of money not making the inevitable mistakes I would have made. Thankyou Bob!
I recently resoled my shoes, that had a good quality sole, but was thin and wore thru … I started just by adding a layer of rust oleum seal all rubber paint, but it pealed after a few days. So not giving up ,I continued with two layers of contact cement. Then two more layers of the rubber paint. It rained, and is January, so there is ice everywhere, so I added another layer of paint rubbing sand into it. Now they are wonderful! Good luck everyone… and keep them soles together.
Hi Bob: Consider lowering the blade of the hooked knife for more support. Also, make sure your glue is completely dry before you trim the edges. This might help a bit. Big fan and please continue the great work. Theo!
Go Aztecs, have you had any issues with steel or brass heel or toe plates scratching hardwood floors? I have always been reluctant to use steel or brass toe plates and used the cheap plastic ones to avoid damage on floors.
I might be impatient, LOL, but I've found that as long as the glue has set up per the directions before applying, it adheres pretty well while cutting. Then after trimming them, I can press any loose edges one final time. I'm not saying this is THE way to do it, but it works for me! Thanks for watching & taking time to comment!
I’ve found using an Xacto knife (#11 size) is easier than this box cutter knives. Since it’s smaller and thinner you have more control. Also you can get a bag of 24 sponge brushes for $3. You have to work quickly bc the brushes break down from something in the cement, but the it really allows you to get it on there super fast anyway.
So 2 things I've learned from doing this myself - 1) don't use the ones you used in this video, due to the curling. I've successfully applied a similar thickness half sole from a sheet of vibram rubber that doesn't curl, or stick to thicker ones. The curling is MADDENING and makes it very hard to apply them to the edges well without a press. 2) don't trim w the hooked blade until the glue is dry. Waiting until it's dry actually let's you trim a bevel into the rubber so that it isn't as rough looking when you see it from the side. I prefer triming a pretty aggressive bevel to give the aesthetic some sleekness.
Perhaps tacking a piece of cardboard to the sole would keep it flat? I've never tried gluing a sole before, but it looks tricky to get it right. I wonder how well stick-on soles hold up? Professional resoling is not a cheap option so I'm hoping this works.
Great work! I have two pairs of McAllisters, but have always been torn on longwing style (MacNeil, Florsheim Imperial, etc). Although I have to say I think they're growing on me. They definitely have a snazzy look that reminds me of the middle twentieth century.
I picked up a pair of old _Barker of Earls Barton_ loafers for £4 today, the main problem with them is that the soles are completely worn down to the nails! To get them resoled I expect would be very expensive, so I'm hoping I can glue a pair of soles on. EDIT: It's not nails after all. It looks like someone must have been walking through a junkyard or a workshop and picked up some metal fragments. They could still do with resoling though.
I wonder if putting the rubber in the freezer would make it work better when cutting. Also, could you trace it beforehand with a piece of paper and cut it out perfectly using it as a template?
I’ve tried cutting them out ahead of time, the problem is you can’t line it up exactly. Once the first part of the half sole touches the shoe, it’s stuck, and you cannot reposition it. It’s about impossible to line it up that way.
Great video I had been trying to find material sources to do my own shoes I will check out the links and suggestions that you put in the description thanks a ton
I wish I had think about this as soon as I got my shoes with leather soles. It was my first pair so I didn't know much about them. I think being the first time, I'll take them to a cobbler. Hopefully, they'll make a better job, maybe getting back the 90 degree angle in the borders so that the half sole looks sharp and in the future maybe I can make it myself.
As a cobbler of ten years I have 2 pieces of advice 1. Great up your Sole with a hair dryer for better adhesion. And 2. Roll the sole onto the shoe almost like kneading the sole on to eliminate air bubbles Good video tho Rob 👍
Scoure leather well using rough sandpaper / electric sander for max adhesion. Put on glue in cross hatch lines. After glue is applied, on sole use semi hard packing for max pressure (cut plywood same size as new sole?). Clamping: use rope over soft towel packed on top of shoe, tighten hard, leave it for 1 hour before trimming with sharp knife. Use a flat piece of wood, say 3-4cm wide sandpaper stuck on it to gently smooth out cut, along the sole's edge for best 'finished' look before using color to match with existing sole. This will give a cobbler's quality look. gd luck
Very informative. Thanks for the video. One suggestion. When you trial fit your rubber sole, before you apply any glue, get it in position, then make a mark on the rubber and on the leather. Just a strait longitudinal line, about where the center is. That will make it easy, once you apply the glue, to get the rubber back in exactly the place you want it. And a question: How did the contact cement hold up? I see you've switched to another type of glue. You can clean that excess glue with a rubber eraser, also, and save your fingers. And where did you get the curved blade?
Makes sense (the line). I've made marks before to get it lined up and it DOES work. I belive the Master All Purpose Cement is better than the DAP. I'd be lying if I said I never get any separation of the rubber, but I still do once in a while. It's always at the tip of the toe (I think that happens when I bump my toe into a curb, etc) and sometimes I get minor separation at the edge of the sole at the ball of the foot where the shoe flexes. It's usually pretty minor and can be touched up in a few minutes by adding a little glue and pressing it back down though. I have several shoes that are on their second or third set of rubber half soles because I wore through the prior sets.
I just tried doing this. They’re curing now, will reapply glue where needed tomorrow and clean up the edges. Glue is a pain to use and has a really strong smell. I see now why it’s charged so much to do. I think it’s a pain but hopefully it lasts awhile
LOL, yes, it's really not worth doing it JUST to save money on one or two pairs of shoes, but if you enjoy it, as I do, and do it to a lot of pairs it's a lot of fun and does save a lot of money.
Great information video as always. I think you might have inspired me to try cleaning up a pair of tan Allen Edmonds as you did in one of your videos. With winter weather coming pre damaged shoes won’t hurt like my new ones . If yo are into casual jeans, street wear etc wingtips with patina and damage looks great.
Interesting - personally I would have taken it to a pro - the end result after you apply the edging dye actually looks good but I wonder how long they will stay on. It’s not so much a criticism of your work but a cobbler would have better tools (like a pump press) to ensure a first time bonding and a sharper finish. However they are your shoes and if you are happy then that’s the main thing. Good video 😊
Dismas Joseph - I’ve worn the shoes 4 times for 12 hrs since putting them on, and did quite a bit of walking outside, and no adhesion problems so far. With the Goodyear protective half soles, occasionally I have had minor lifting at the back edge, but if I do I just get the glue back out and dab some more on.
Do you learn a lot from Bedo's Leatherworks' channel? It's one of my guilty pleasures (along with your videos). He recently did a women's shoe video where he applies rubber soles like this to various shoes, as well as other repairs. It's an hour long video, but after a long day at the office I can pour myself a whiskey, sit back, and easily watch the entire thing before bed. It's interesting stuff. Keep up the good work.
@@CobblerBob He makes it look so easy. It's hypnotizing. Steve was recently featured on The Kavalier's UA-cam channel in a really good Allen Edmonds history and general overview video where they address some of the recent concerns about that company. I’m guessing you already saw it, but if not, it's a nice series that The Kavalier (Jon Shanahan) produced on Allen Edmonds. He interviews at length some of their top executives, and even tours the Woodlore Shoe Tree company which AE owns as well. Great AE content and info.
I saw that video! It was extremely impressive. I don’t think AE fully addressed the quality issues in it, but it did make me feel better and more confident about where AE is headed. I actually added a link to that video in my pinned comment, and I just added a link to it in this video’s description. Now that I think about it, by McAllisters we’re purchased in Sept 2017, so they were “Pre-Calares” Brentwood & Assoc’s made shoes, whch sounds like the low point of QC. My MacNeils were an end of run shoe (my understanding is they discontinued the Oxblood MacNeil) and it had the new “ALLEN EDMONDS“ military font logo in all caps on the insole, but the old “Allen Edmonds” logo on the outsole, so it’s possible that shoe was made in early or mid 2018, shortly after Calares purchased AE in 2017. In other words, they may still be flushing out mistakes??
@@CobblerBob Yes, that makes a lot of sense. With all the sizes they make, and the models (that come and go) I suspect some older shoes are still in their inventory. I honestly think some of their Seconds are simply older shoes, that are not necessarily blemished or imperfect. I can't confirm this, but if you look closely, you can tell that some of the photography is different on the same style shoe on their site. For example, The Delray (which they still make) has an older photo on the Seconds page and on ShoeBank, and you can tell the photo wasn't taken at the same time as their new shoes' photos were taken. Like it's from an older version of their website, and even in the top view photos, you can see it's clearly a Delray with the old logo on the insole, not the military font. Okay, I know we are getting really inside baseball and nerdy here, but again it would not surprise me that you can purchase a new pair of Allen Edmonds shoes that were actually made 3 or 4 years ago. Maybe even older?
What is your opinion on heels that "Knock" when you walk? I once thought they were of higher quality shoes but i have had cheap $100 steve maddens that knock as well as $650 Crockett & Jones that do not. Thanks
Ryan Ryan - hmmm... I have not paid that close attention to the sound to be honest. I HAVE noticed that most of the shoes I wear, the heel strike IS louder than most other people around me, and they are generally wearing cheaper shoes. I’ve got a couple pairs of cheaper shoes I still wear, like a couple pairs of Bostonians, a pair of Florsheims... I think you’re right, especially after I put heel taps on them, they have a louder click as well. So I guess that’s just one factor, not necessarily a guarantee. Just like seeing the word “supercharged“ on the car does not make it fast necessarily, LOL.
Robert Powers LOL... that’s a great point. After getting more into shoes, I know for a fact that cheaper shoes have a louder heel strike. So it seems to be the very cheap and the very expensive both have a loud heel strike, however, the very expensive have a more deep “low-pitch strike” (from tightly stacked dense leather) as a opposed to a cheap “high-pitch clack” Thanks for your reply and absolutely love you your videos!
@@ItsRyanChin My Leonardos (Italian) have a very loud and high pitched heel. Ace Marks have more of a boot sounding heel, and Allen Edmonds have an in-between for me. My favourite shoes. Inexpensive when used. Even the all rubber soled loafers make a solid sound. Not too cheap sounding.
Timothy Enloe - every UA-cam video has a description below the title below the video. You might have to select the triangle to get it to show. All of the info on where I got them is in that description!
Thanks for the video, it's very helpful. Out of curiosity, what would be the purpose of using a rubber protector on a leather sole versus just replacing with a rubber sole?
Matt Richmond - I like a leather sole with a rubber protective sole over it for a few reasons: 1. When the rubber half sole wears out it can be replaced in expensively, leaving the sole in tact. 2. Leather soled dress shoes are more readily available. 3. I purchased these particular shoes on the AE Father’s Day sale. I don’t think they had the Dainite version on sale for as low a cost. 4. Replacing the leather sole would have to be done by a cobbler, or sent back to AE and would prob cost $150-$200, versus a $9 rubber half sole.
I use 2 different utility knives in this video. One has the standard straight blade. The other one has a carpet blade installed in it. Home Depot or Lowes or any decent hardware store will have both.
I have a tube of the barge glue with the blue label. I intend to buy the barge TF clear in can but do you think the tube will work fine for the vibram rubber thin soles? I will attempt to add half sole to ladies dress shoe. I bought the glue for this project a while back but I see you guys using the can glue. Thanks
Hi Bob, Thanks for sharing the video. But I am wondering whether the area that you made the direct (curved) cut to your sole had started showing signs of growing further into the sole, because it looks to me like such cuts could serve as a crack/cut initiation area.
@@CobblerBob Thanks for the response! Also, can you make a video that goes over all the tools that you have and the cost of each of them (w/ links) on sites like Amazon?
Just wondering why you cut a line on the bottom and shaved off some of the bottom? Instead of just applying the rubber sole directly to the sole? I’m new at this and just wondering and thinking it would stick better when applied to the leather vs the slippery leather with the finish?
Great job Rob, these turned out great. Have fantasized about adding rubber protective soles to my shoes aswell, just to extend theire lifetime. What they actually need is a recrafting, but I'm way too cheap to send them back to the manufacturers for that. Sadly we don't have a good cobbler in my area.
@@willisix2554 Absolutely, new pairs are horribly expensive. What i ment is that the price that the shoemakers charge for recrafting is often more than local cobblers. But what I am going to get the best value for is probably just to save together som money and have them recrafted with a Dainite sole. Leather is just to soft for norwegian weather.
Yes, thank you Alvin, it’s been a combination of absolutely NOTHING at the thrift stores recently, some craziness at home & work that’s kept me busy, and no new shoe acquisitions…. I’m definitely way overdue for a video or two!
Great job, ,perhaps you should wait with trimming until shoe and sole bond ? Then the rubbrt sole will stay firmer ? Tryied myself , ,not so good , but will do !!!
I don't understand the need to file down the sole just to fit the sole savers. I just have all of my stuck on top. 2 mm isn't going to make much of a difference. Besides you're trying to minimise wear on the original sole,why would you purposely grind it away??
You're right, t absolutely does NOT have to be done. For a few years, I never did that and still wear shoes with them not trimmed up. I like to do it now just because I think it looks nicer, and it does seem to help keep that back edge from peeling off.
Hi Bob! Do you know any way to avoid black marks because of this rubber soles in clear floors, I got a pair with those on them and sometimes I'm like a giant black marker pen walking around... And these marks are quite difficult to clean it after. Thanks for another great video!
fishmemmo - 🤔 i’m just guessing you’ll find that only happens with certain shoes. I apologize, I can’t really help you with this one! I’ve never had any experience with that.
Sounds From The Underground. - I’m flattered... but I’m not taking customers. I’m not set up for that! Any local cobbler would do it, but just specify exactly how you want it done (like in this case they are skived in flush) and specify exactly which kind of sole you want.
You need to hammer the air out from between the sole and protector. Starting from the inside moving out. Not sure what kind of cement you're using but you need to prep the surface better. If you're going to do it may as well do it right Bob.
1. I don't always show every step bc I sometimes feel my videos tend to be too long as it is. Yes, I do either put the shoes on the cobblers last and hammer the soles on, or just put the shoes on my feet and stand on them on carpet to press them on. 2. I used to use DAP Weldwood contact cement, now I use Master All Purpose Cement by Petronio 3. Those particular rubber protective half soles I used in this video I quit using, they're a bit too soft, too thin, and too floppy. Anyway, maybe prep could be better, I could be more disciplined with cleaning off the back of the rubber with alcohol, which I don't always do, but now that I switched to Masters and use a thicker 1mm to 1.5mm half sole, I have no adhesion problems. And most importatnly, sorry for missing your comment.
Great video bob, one question. What happens when you cut through the stitches? Also can you do any video exclusively on caring /cleaning stitches in future ? Thanks
garyp272727 - I assume when you say “cut through the stitches”, you mean when I skived the edge? 1. The stitches are recessed below the surface in a groove, so I actually did not cut through the stitches at all. 2. Even if you did, it would not be the end of the world. The way a Goodyear Welted stitch works, there’s a thread on the top side of the shoe and a thread on the bottom. They are looped around each other. It’s called a lock stitch. You can break the thread, and that “knot“ inside the hole will still hold, even after the thread is cut. Look at any Goodyear Welted shoe that has wear on it, and the sole will stay attached on even after you wear through the threads. Yes, in one of my future cleanup videos that have a dirty welt, I’ll make sure to show that!
I often use my cobblers last nowadays, but these shoes with the double oak sole are so sturdy it didn't really need the shoe tree, but yes, that would usually be a good idea.
Great video! Just a quick question, are there any resources out there to research Johnston and Murphy model numbers? Love to know what I’m looking at if I find a pair. Thanks again.
Rick DeWeese - I haven’t found any. Of course if it’s a model number still in use, you’ll find it on their current website. Outside of that, it seems to me that most of their model #s begin with 22-, but their upper end shoes (Aristocraft & Crown Aristocraft) begin with 24-. Styleforumhas some great threads, but finding the articles can be tough. This video may help a little though in the meantime: ua-cam.com/video/pkbAdSJoq_o/v-deo.html
Very cool. I’ve been watching a bunch of your videos and thinking of buying a pair of AE. Do you still use the heel taps on the bottom? I know many people don’t like them.
YES I use them on almost all of my shoes. I like them! I use them because I often make sales calls outside and will walk in my dress shoes 5,000-10,000 steps on pavement. I'd rather replace a 50 cent pair of heel taps than a heel. My best tips for buying AE's: 1. GET FITTED at a store! I can't tell you how many people I know that got professionally fitted for the first time and as a result found out they were actually not the shoe size they thought. Remember, AE has widths ranging from I believe AAA, AA, A, B, C, D, E, EE, and my favorite width EEE. 2. TAKE YOUR TIME. Don't go during a peak time. Go during the weekday during the day if you can and WEAR the shoe around the store for a while. 3. Have the shoe shipped to the STORE if it's not too far away, NOT your HOUSE. Go into the store and pick them up and UNBOX them THERE. AE has had some Quality issues... look for: A) Odd wrinkles or creases B) Unevenness between the shoes, such as the toe caps being crooked C) Check that the welt to sole stitching does not run off of the welt anywhere on either shoe 4. Subscribe your email to their website. They have sales ALL the time. do NOT pay full price for AE's!
@@CobblerBob Thank you so much for the reply!!!! And thank you for all of this great advice. This made my week. I agree with you about the shoe taps. They make total sense to me. :)
When you cut a slight bit into the leather sole to allow the rubber sole guard to be flush, is that purely for aesthetics or if you did not cut the leather out to allow the rubber sole guard to be flush, the rubber sole guard may peel off prematurely? Thank you for your videos, I learn a ton.
BOTH. I do believe doing that helps prevent it from peeling back off, for example when you put your feet up on the bars of a high barstool type chair, but it's mainly aesthetic. I'm glad they help! And SORRY for missing your comment! I'm tying to do a better job with this.
Great video thanks..I'll give it a go. Just a couple of things: could the masking tape be left on, on the outer curve, so that when you spread the glue on you wouldn't have to worry about following the edge? Also, would it be better to let the glue set before trimming off the edges? Cheers
Bruce, SORRY for missing this comment, as well as a similar one you left on another half-sole video! You've watched AND commented on TWO, and I didn't ansewer you! I'm still getting the hang of the back end of UA-cam. Anyway, YES, you certainly could leave tape on the outside edge of the sole, but I'm telling you, that contact cement comes off fairly effortlessly. I'll copy the answer I wrote on the other video: 1. There is always some curve to the sole, especially near the edges of the shoe. I feel that trimming off the excess right away then lets you press the trimmed sole firmly onto the shoe without the extra overhanging. That extra hanging off won't let the sole take shape correctly, especially at the very front of the shoe at the tip of the toe. 2. If it lifts off a little bit when the glue is not set, you can just press it back on. If it lifts off while cutting after the glue is completely dry, I don't think it will re-adhere as well.
SORRY for missing your comment! I just spent about 8 hours in the last couple days just replying to comments! Anyway, I replaced them in March of 2021, so I got 1-1/2 years out of them. I documented the replacement with some updates here: ua-cam.com/video/8gyM5gOW_O8/v-deo.html 1. I now use a different material (SEE EDITED DESCRIPTION BELOW THIS VIDEO). 2. I now use Master All Purpose Cement by Petronio (SEE DESCRIPTION) 3. Now per the Master instructions on the can, I let the glue dry pretty well, then apply heat with a hair dryer on high heat to them right before applying. 4. I don't always show it if it's not a "how to" video, but I always press the rubber on by hammering it on, or by putting the shoes on and standing on them on carpet.
Really nice job, Robert! I think I might attempt this, and your efforts will be my guide. Your whittling was awesome. Perhaps you could pick up some Barge or other, thicker, contact cement on Amazon. Also, as I am never one to turn my back on a bad pun, why not make The Blues Brothers "I'm a (Sole) Man" your theme song for the intro? Keep up the great work!
Miguel Vargas - I would wait until you know you’re not going to return or exchange them for any reason. Just watch the sole wear... if the way you walk you wear off the tips of the toes, you don’t want to round off the sole edges at the front of the toe too much before you add on the protectors.
I have an Allen Edmonds leather boot, a First Avenue. I put some Mink Oil on it from Moneys-worth and Best. What do you think about mink oil on leather?
Weldon, They did their job! This video was recorded August of 2019. I replaced the half soles in a video recoreded March 2021, so I got a year and a half out of them. Leather soles would most likely have been thrashed before then. If you watch the video, you'll see they wern't in terrible shape either. I do believe the new half soles I put on are a little thicker, a little harder durometer, and therefore will last longer. Although I have been working from home most days since the start of Covid, pre-Covid I wore those shoes a LOT. I probably wore them 1-2 times a week, and often wore them on days I'd make outside sales calls where I would walk 8,000 to 10,000 steps (according to my phone) on pavement. I do wear these shoes in the damp and even light snow. Here's the video with the replacement: ua-cam.com/video/tuGfv3cS_z4/v-deo.html
Thanks for the great video! With your experience, do you still recommend sanding The sole of new shoes before applying glue? My shoes are brand new but the sole is not slick. It’s leather and has a velvet suede feel.
Patricia Murray - honestly, go check out some of the Professional cobblers channels, like Bedo’s leatherworks, or Trenton & Heath. I may do another video on this because I have noticed some problems with some of the rubber half soles peeling off either at the tip of the toes, the back edge closest to the heel, or the outer edge. I’ve noticed that heavier men have much more of a problem with them peeling off than me (I’ve applied them for several people at the office, and they seem to peel off much worse off of the heavy guys’ shoes). Based off of my experience and talking to pros, I think the best way to do it is to sand off the surface, even if the leather is new, and then apply 2 or maybe even 3 coats of glue. I’ve noticed that once you sand the leather, the first coat of glue will soak into the leather and almost disappear. It will not be enough. You’ve got to put several coats on any areas you break the leather. Also, the professionals use Masters All Purpose Quick Drying Cement, or Barge cement. Both are available through eBay through the seller “nordshoe”. I think it’s a stronger glue than the DAP I’ve used before. Also, when you sand the sole, you get a nice square edge on it. I have found that if there’s any rounding at the edge of the leather sole, there will be a gap there, and the rubber half sole will not adhere well at that spot, and will be more prone to peeling off. I hope that helps.
@@CobblerBob Please do another video with what you learned. It's very helpful. I have about four shoes I need to do this on and getting it professionally done is too pricy an option.
Stephen Funk - we will find out! I’ll update y’all with a report when they wear through. I have put the Goodyear protective soles on a dozen of my other shoes. I probably started doing it 3-4 years ago. I wear my McAllisters that I bought Sept 2017 about once a week, and often walk outside several miles in them. They are 2 yrs old and still have the 1st pair of Goodyears on them. That being said, I KNOW the ones in this video will NOT last as long. They’re about half to 2/3 the thickness of the Goodyears.
In this case you could be right, but I also think how thin and floppy these half soles were was part of the problem. They curled up weird after applying glue. I edied the description, I now use Masters All Purpose Cement, and also have started using heat. You're right, it helps.
Samuel Isaac Medina Jaquez - The last a pair of J&M Optimas I have seen were purchased by an office mate prob in late 2017 or early 2018. I think the company has done even more outsourcing since then, so my information may not be current. That being said, the older made in USA Bostonians are amazing! Nobody wants to buy them on eBay, but I did an entire video on Thrifting Bostonians, you may want to check it out. Therefore they’re worthless to buy to resell on eBay, but they’re great shoes to purchase and wear. They have a good quality leather on the soles, many of them have full grain uppers, and 360° Goodyear Welting.
Oh, also, I forgot to say, in some ways I’d say they are better than Johnston and percent Murphy Optimas. I’ve seen Optimas made with both full grain leather and with corrected grain. So in some ways I would say some of the old Macedonians are better. Can’t make a blanket statement though, but I would say the Bostonians quality went down when they started producing them overseas.
@Robert Powers - thank you for the videos. You started me into higher end shows. To see a real UK Cobbler, checkout "Tring Shoe Repair." He uses heat activated glue for soles. He also hammers the half sole on an anvil to ensure contact on the edges and uses a hydraulic press. It would be interesting to see the quality of materials you can get vs what a cobbler gets. Also the cost. How much did you save by doing it yourself and was it the same quality. A few video ideas: Get a pieces of full grain leather and corrected leather belt and put in a clear glass bottle with acetone. Observe over a week. Try to polish the corrected leather after the finish is removed. Another video idea, do sample shopping on eBay for pre-owned shoes - show what to look for - what can and cannot be cheaply repaired. and what to avoid.
Have you thought about having the shoes shrink wrapped. :-) That is really an ugly addition to the shoe. It reminds me of my parents wrapping all the good furniture with plastic. Yes it protects it but then why own quality shoes? Sorry, I live in the mid-west too and when we have bad weather their are other options that are still classy. I was trying to be funny but at the same time truthful. I do like watching and learning.
Paying a cobbler: 1. They're not all good so it can be a gamble 2. Assuming they are good... YES, you will get a better result than your first or second or even probably your 3rd time. So if an immediate result is your goal, I agree, DON'T DIY. BUT... if you have an intense desire to figure it out and do it yourself... If you have a drive to get good at a craft, DIY! This video was released Aug 2019. I released the following video March of 2021, and I'm sure you'll see I got pretty damn good at my craft in between: ua-cam.com/video/8gyM5gOW_O8/v-deo.html As I type this it's Dec 2021, and I just released a video showing a FULL resole with a V-Cleat heel re-created on a vintage pair of Florshiem Royal Imperials, and I am confident in saying that the result was on par with professional cobblers. Not better than or on par with the BEST pros like Steve from Bedos, but on par with most of them out there. ua-cam.com/video/6Td2yaMBnKw/v-deo.html
robert. a nice video but you do a few things wrong. you should never place the shoe between your legs and then cut into the sole. Place the shoe on a table, otherwise you will cut your leg. You must roughen the leather sole with rough sandpaper and glue the leather soles twice. good luck. grtz from a cobbler.
Never, never, never, NEVER do that to your soles. Cutting into soles and glueing rubber or any other type of “protective” stuff is like cutting out the heart of the shoes. The value of those Allen Edmonds goes literally to Zero. 🤷♂️
Thomas, I appreciate your opinion, but I whole heartedly disagree. This is IMHO not a "right vs wrong" discussion, but PREFERENCE. Obviously there are "Purists" that hate putting anything on top of a rubber sole, but I find it terribly convenient and useful, especially on a LWB with a storm welt and a double oak sole. I live in an area that gets snow in the winter, and a decent amount of rain from October through May. I also find that the modern base leather doesn't hold up very well on concrete. It's not uncommon for me to wear these shoes for 8,000 steps in a day on concrete. As far as "value", I couldn't care less. These are shoes I WEAR, and USE. These shoes will only get sold if I die, so their "value" lies solely in their usefulness to me, period. PS, check out pro cobblers on YT or Instagram like @procobblers, @Cobblersplusco, @cobblersunny: they ALL put on rubber protective half soles and cut them in just like this. I'm now to the point where on some of my shoes I've replaced the topy twice because I simply wore through them, and it's saved me the cost of several resoles. That being said, I've got a pair of black cap toe Oxfords I wear to funerals, etc, and a pair of Polo single monk straps with a narrowed waist & partially blind stitched soles that I absolutely will not put topy on because it wouldn't look right, but I don't use those shoes as a "workhorse". Again, I believe this is preference issue, NOT a right vs wrong issue. Don't do it if you don't like it. I certainly hope we can disagree on this point without being disagreeable, and without disliking each other.
NOTE: I’ve switched since doing this video to using Master All Purpose Contact Cement by Petronio. This is what a lot of professional cobblers use. It’s better. I got it on eBay from eBay seller Nordshoe.
Appreciate the knowledge, Mr. Powers. Good day! 😎👍
Love this channel, and a hey from Cleveland. Subscribed.
Hi!, how durable are those rubber soles? They wear fast?
cheers
@@FrambhueeeSORRY for missing your comment! These particular ones I used in this video are a little on the thin side and a little softer than I like. They're okay, and the amount of wear of course depends on how often you wear the shoes, your build, where you wear them (indoors vs pavement), etc. They lasted over a year wearing them on pavement, but I don't wear them more than once a weeek. I now like this stuff:
"SoleTech Mini-Check Rubber Sole-Guard Soling Sheet, 1.2mm Black" I got it from Amazon. I'll update the description too.
I found your videos because I resell vintage clothing and shoes, I learned to restore heels but I wasnt sure how to go about restoring loafers. Your videos not only helped me in restoration aspect but your very informative videos taught me alot about leather types and with some luck I managed to find a pair of shell cordovan aldens for about 4 bucks the very next day!
Hi Bob. I was getting ready for bed when the ‘notification’ came in from UA-cam informing me that you just uploaded this video. I’m really glad i stayed up to watch and learn a bit about how to add a half sole to a new pair of AE shoes. I agree with you; as you get better with each one of your Cobbler projects. You should be very proud of the outcome with your new McAllister shoes. The new half soles look great on the shoes, and I’m sure they will help you navigate the Northern Ohio winter weather. Another fine job and a great video! I like the background music, as well...Ed
👊🏼😃👍🏼
As usual, another well done job, I can't tell you how much I have learned watching your videos, and I saved a lot of money not making the inevitable mistakes I would have made. Thankyou Bob!
Alan Gombosky 👊🏼
I recently resoled my shoes, that had a good quality sole, but was thin and wore thru … I started just by adding a layer of rust oleum seal all rubber paint, but it pealed after a few days. So not giving up ,I continued with two layers of contact cement. Then two more layers of the rubber paint. It rained, and is January, so there is ice everywhere, so I added another layer of paint rubbing sand into it. Now they are wonderful! Good luck everyone… and keep them soles together.
Nice work Robert and as I always say thank you for posting.
Symon Fobbester 👊🏼
Hi Bob: Consider lowering the blade of the hooked knife for more support. Also, make sure your glue is completely dry before you trim the edges. This might help a bit. Big fan and please continue the great work. Theo!
Fantastic job Bob! Have you thought about doing a video on adding steel or brass toe plates? Thanks again for another great video! :)
Go Aztecs - 🙏🏼 thank you! I’ve never messed with toe plates... I’ll Kee it in mind!
Go Aztecs, have you had any issues with steel or brass heel or toe plates scratching hardwood floors? I have always been reluctant to use steel or brass toe plates and used the cheap plastic ones to avoid damage on floors.
I'm thinking of doing this myself but am fearful of cutting the soles. Can rubber protectors still be applied without the cutting step. Thank you 😊
Yes! Don't ever cut the soles! This guy has OCD or something.
Who actually looks at the bottom of someones shoes and judges them?
Y'all can get quality sheets of rubber @
ALI-
EXPRESS
Thanks for the video. It's interesting that you trim the sole before the glue has dried.
I might be impatient, LOL, but I've found that as long as the glue has set up per the directions before applying, it adheres pretty well while cutting. Then after trimming them, I can press any loose edges one final time. I'm not saying this is THE way to do it, but it works for me! Thanks for watching & taking time to comment!
Another video that covers a topic I absolutely needed help with
I saw those Oxblood McNeils are on sale now, too. Very tempted. A classic blucher shoe.
I’ve found using an Xacto knife (#11 size) is easier than this box cutter knives. Since it’s smaller and thinner you have more control. Also you can get a bag of 24 sponge brushes for $3. You have to work quickly bc the brushes break down from something in the cement, but the it really allows you to get it on there super fast anyway.
So 2 things I've learned from doing this myself - 1) don't use the ones you used in this video, due to the curling. I've successfully applied a similar thickness half sole from a sheet of vibram rubber that doesn't curl, or stick to thicker ones. The curling is MADDENING and makes it very hard to apply them to the edges well without a press. 2) don't trim w the hooked blade until the glue is dry. Waiting until it's dry actually let's you trim a bevel into the rubber so that it isn't as rough looking when you see it from the side. I prefer triming a pretty aggressive bevel to give the aesthetic some sleekness.
Perhaps tacking a piece of cardboard to the sole would keep it flat? I've never tried gluing a sole before, but it looks tricky to get it right. I wonder how well stick-on soles hold up? Professional resoling is not a cheap option so I'm hoping this works.
Robert you're doing a great job with your videos I enjoyed them a lot keep going
Great work! I have two pairs of McAllisters, but have always been torn on longwing style (MacNeil, Florsheim Imperial, etc). Although I have to say I think they're growing on me. They definitely have a snazzy look that reminds me of the middle twentieth century.
Nice work! 👍
I picked up a pair of old _Barker of Earls Barton_ loafers for £4 today, the main problem with them is that the soles are completely worn down to the nails! To get them resoled I expect would be very expensive, so I'm hoping I can glue a pair of soles on.
EDIT: It's not nails after all. It looks like someone must have been walking through a junkyard or a workshop and picked up some metal fragments. They could still do with resoling though.
I wonder if putting the rubber in the freezer would make it work better when cutting. Also, could you trace it beforehand with a piece of paper and cut it out perfectly using it as a template?
I’ve tried cutting them out ahead of time, the problem is you can’t line it up exactly. Once the first part of the half sole touches the shoe, it’s stuck, and you cannot reposition it. It’s about impossible to line it up that way.
Great video I had been trying to find material sources to do my own shoes I will check out the links and suggestions that you put in the description thanks a ton
I wish I had think about this as soon as I got my shoes with leather soles. It was my first pair so I didn't know much about them. I think being the first time, I'll take them to a cobbler. Hopefully, they'll make a better job, maybe getting back the 90 degree angle in the borders so that the half sole looks sharp and in the future maybe I can make it myself.
Great job man and yes you are getting better and saving your self a lot of money by doing this job and other things
As a cobbler of ten years
I have 2 pieces of advice
1. Great up your Sole with a hair dryer for better adhesion. And
2. Roll the sole onto the shoe almost like kneading the sole on to eliminate air bubbles
Good video tho Rob 👍
Yes, great tips! I honestly need to make a checklist. I received and started using the heat tip, and for some reason (d'oh!) stopped using it.Thanks!
Scoure leather well using rough sandpaper / electric sander for max adhesion. Put on glue in cross hatch lines.
After glue is applied, on sole use semi hard packing for max pressure (cut plywood same size as new sole?).
Clamping: use rope over soft towel packed on top of shoe, tighten hard, leave it for 1 hour before trimming with sharp knife.
Use a flat piece of wood, say 3-4cm wide sandpaper stuck on it to gently smooth out cut, along the sole's edge for best 'finished' look before using color to match with existing sole.
This will give a cobbler's quality look.
gd luck
I think they came out great!
Thank you!
Very informative. Thanks for the video. One suggestion. When you trial fit your rubber sole, before you apply any glue, get it in position, then make a mark on the rubber and on the leather. Just a strait longitudinal line, about where the center is. That will make it easy, once you apply the glue, to get the rubber back in exactly the place you want it. And a question: How did the contact cement hold up? I see you've switched to another type of glue. You can clean that excess glue with a rubber eraser, also, and save your fingers. And where did you get the curved blade?
Makes sense (the line). I've made marks before to get it lined up and it DOES work. I belive the Master All Purpose Cement is better than the DAP. I'd be lying if I said I never get any separation of the rubber, but I still do once in a while. It's always at the tip of the toe (I think that happens when I bump my toe into a curb, etc) and sometimes I get minor separation at the edge of the sole at the ball of the foot where the shoe flexes. It's usually pretty minor and can be touched up in a few minutes by adding a little glue and pressing it back down though. I have several shoes that are on their second or third set of rubber half soles because I wore through the prior sets.
You usually need to add heel lifts when you add half soles. At least on block heels like those.
Miguel Vargas - absolutely not necessary. They’re so thin it doesn’t change the geometry.
I just tried doing this. They’re curing now, will reapply glue where needed tomorrow and clean up the edges. Glue is a pain to use and has a really strong smell. I see now why it’s charged so much to do. I think it’s a pain but hopefully it lasts awhile
LOL, yes, it's really not worth doing it JUST to save money on one or two pairs of shoes, but if you enjoy it, as I do, and do it to a lot of pairs it's a lot of fun and does save a lot of money.
@@CobblerBob looking back it’s not too bad, but it looks like a hack job up close. May not be too bad with a new pair of shoes…
Great information video as always. I think you might have inspired me to try cleaning up a pair of tan Allen Edmonds as you did in one of your videos. With winter weather coming pre damaged shoes won’t hurt like my new ones . If yo are into casual jeans, street wear etc wingtips with patina and damage looks great.
Interesting - personally I would have taken it to a pro - the end result after you apply the edging dye actually looks good but I wonder how long they will stay on. It’s not so much a criticism of your work but a cobbler would have better tools (like a pump press) to ensure a first time bonding and a sharper finish. However they are your shoes and if you are happy then that’s the main thing. Good video 😊
Dismas Joseph - I’ve worn the shoes 4 times for 12 hrs since putting them on, and did quite a bit of walking outside, and no adhesion problems so far. With the Goodyear protective half soles, occasionally I have had minor lifting at the back edge, but if I do I just get the glue back out and dab some more on.
Robert Powers Good for you - am glad it has worked out - enjoy walking. Take care 😎
Thank you. Yes. Steel and brass toe plates. If you may. Please
Do you learn a lot from Bedo's Leatherworks' channel? It's one of my guilty pleasures (along with your videos). He recently did a women's shoe video where he applies rubber soles like this to various shoes, as well as other repairs. It's an hour long video, but after a long day at the office I can pour myself a whiskey, sit back, and easily watch the entire thing before bed. It's interesting stuff. Keep up the good work.
TechnoloTree - absolutely, i eagerly await every new video Steve from Vito‘s leather works puts out!
@@CobblerBob He makes it look so easy. It's hypnotizing. Steve was recently featured on The Kavalier's UA-cam channel in a really good Allen Edmonds history and general overview video where they address some of the recent concerns about that company. I’m guessing you already saw it, but if not, it's a nice series that The Kavalier (Jon Shanahan) produced on Allen Edmonds. He interviews at length some of their top executives, and even tours the Woodlore Shoe Tree company which AE owns as well. Great AE content and info.
I saw that video! It was extremely impressive. I don’t think AE fully addressed the quality issues in it, but it did make me feel better and more confident about where AE is headed. I actually added a link to that video in my pinned comment, and I just added a link to it in this video’s description.
Now that I think about it, by McAllisters we’re purchased in Sept 2017, so they were “Pre-Calares” Brentwood & Assoc’s made shoes, whch sounds like the low point of QC. My MacNeils were an end of run shoe (my understanding is they discontinued the Oxblood MacNeil) and it had the new “ALLEN EDMONDS“ military font logo in all caps on the insole, but the old “Allen Edmonds” logo on the outsole, so it’s possible that shoe was made in early or mid 2018, shortly after Calares purchased AE in 2017. In other words, they may still be flushing out mistakes??
@@CobblerBob Yes, that makes a lot of sense. With all the sizes they make, and the models (that come and go) I suspect some older shoes are still in their inventory. I honestly think some of their Seconds are simply older shoes, that are not necessarily blemished or imperfect. I can't confirm this, but if you look closely, you can tell that some of the photography is different on the same style shoe on their site. For example, The Delray (which they still make) has an older photo on the Seconds page and on ShoeBank, and you can tell the photo wasn't taken at the same time as their new shoes' photos were taken. Like it's from an older version of their website, and even in the top view photos, you can see it's clearly a Delray with the old logo on the insole, not the military font. Okay, I know we are getting really inside baseball and nerdy here, but again it would not surprise me that you can purchase a new pair of Allen Edmonds shoes that were actually made 3 or 4 years ago. Maybe even older?
What is your opinion on heels that "Knock" when you walk? I once thought they were of higher quality shoes but i have had cheap $100 steve maddens that knock as well as $650 Crockett & Jones that do not. Thanks
Ryan Ryan - hmmm... I have not paid that close attention to the sound to be honest. I HAVE noticed that most of the shoes I wear, the heel strike IS louder than most other people around me, and they are generally wearing cheaper shoes. I’ve got a couple pairs of cheaper shoes I still wear, like a couple pairs of Bostonians, a pair of Florsheims... I think you’re right, especially after I put heel taps on them, they have a louder click as well. So I guess that’s just one factor, not necessarily a guarantee. Just like seeing the word “supercharged“ on the car does not make it fast necessarily, LOL.
Robert Powers LOL... that’s a great point. After getting more into shoes, I know for a fact that cheaper shoes have a louder heel strike. So it seems to be the very cheap and the very expensive both have a loud heel strike, however, the very expensive have a more deep “low-pitch strike” (from tightly stacked dense leather) as a opposed to a cheap “high-pitch clack” Thanks for your reply and absolutely love you your videos!
@@ItsRyanChin My Leonardos (Italian) have a very loud and high pitched heel. Ace Marks have more of a boot sounding heel, and Allen Edmonds have an in-between for me. My favourite shoes. Inexpensive when used. Even the all rubber soled loafers make a solid sound. Not too cheap sounding.
Great video.
Saves on sole replacements and much better grip on slippery street pavements.
My sentiments exactly. Thank you!
Can we change elastic of chelsea boots
Hari Dangol - uhh... never attempted that! Check out Bedos Leatherworks channel!
Hi, Robert. Where do you buy your half soles? I'd like to buy five to ten pairs, in bulk if possible. Thank you.
Timothy Enloe - every UA-cam video has a description below the title below the video. You might have to select the triangle to get it to show. All of the info on where I got them is in that description!
Thanks for the video, it's very helpful. Out of curiosity, what would be the purpose of using a rubber protector on a leather sole versus just replacing with a rubber sole?
Matt Richmond - I like a leather sole with a rubber protective sole over it for a few reasons:
1. When the rubber half sole wears out it can be replaced in expensively, leaving the sole in tact.
2. Leather soled dress shoes are more readily available.
3. I purchased these particular shoes on the AE Father’s Day sale. I don’t think they had the Dainite version on sale for as low a cost.
4. Replacing the leather sole would have to be done by a cobbler, or sent back to AE and would prob cost $150-$200, versus a $9 rubber half sole.
Great video. You have a nice calming voice too.
Sand Andsea 👊🏼
Where is the knife from. Couldn't find it anymore :(
I use 2 different utility knives in this video. One has the standard straight blade. The other one has a carpet blade installed in it. Home Depot or Lowes or any decent hardware store will have both.
I have a tube of the barge glue with the blue label. I intend to buy the barge TF clear in can but do you think the tube will work fine for the vibram rubber thin soles? I will attempt to add half sole to ladies dress shoe. I bought the glue for this project a while back but I see you guys using the can glue. Thanks
Patricia Murray - I honestly don’t know the difference between the various Barge glues, but Barge IS the other brand I know some pros use.
Hi Bob,
Thanks for sharing the video. But I am wondering whether the area that you made the direct (curved) cut to your sole had started showing signs of growing further into the sole, because it looks to me like such cuts could serve as a crack/cut initiation area.
kingdele01 - I haven’t had any problems from the joint yet. That cut is far enough back that it’s on an area that really doesn’t flex.
@@CobblerBob Thanks for the response!
Also, can you make a video that goes over all the tools that you have and the cost of each of them (w/ links) on sites like Amazon?
Just wondering why you cut a line on the bottom and shaved off some of the bottom? Instead of just applying the rubber sole directly to the sole? I’m new at this and just wondering and thinking it would stick better when applied to the leather vs the slippery leather with the finish?
thanks for posting I am going to have to try this myself
Great job Rob, these turned out great. Have fantasized about adding rubber protective soles to my shoes aswell, just to extend theire lifetime. What they actually need is a recrafting, but I'm way too cheap to send them back to the manufacturers for that. Sadly we don't have a good cobbler in my area.
Might be cheaper to recraft them than buy a new pair I'm just saying
@@willisix2554 Absolutely, new pairs are horribly expensive. What i ment is that the price that the shoemakers charge for recrafting is often more than local cobblers.
But what I am going to get the best value for is probably just to save together som money and have them recrafted with a Dainite sole. Leather is just to soft for norwegian weather.
@@norwaysgateway kool, good luck to you.
haven't posted in a while I hope you are doing o.k. God bless miss you
Yes, thank you Alvin, it’s been a combination of absolutely NOTHING at the thrift stores recently, some craziness at home & work that’s kept me busy, and no new shoe acquisitions…. I’m definitely way overdue for a video or two!
@@CobblerBob God bless ... kinda crazy here too
What grit sand paper did you use?
Sorry for missing your comment!!! I believe that was 120 grit.
Great job, ,perhaps you should wait with trimming until shoe and sole bond ? Then the rubbrt sole will stay firmer ? Tryied myself , ,not so good , but will do !!!
I don't understand the need to file down the sole just to fit the sole savers. I just have all of my stuck on top. 2 mm isn't going to make much of a difference. Besides you're trying to minimise wear on the original sole,why would you purposely grind it away??
You're right, t absolutely does NOT have to be done. For a few years, I never did that and still wear shoes with them not trimmed up. I like to do it now just because I think it looks nicer, and it does seem to help keep that back edge from peeling off.
Hi Bob! Do you know any way to avoid black marks because of this rubber soles in clear floors, I got a pair with those on them and sometimes I'm like a giant black marker pen walking around... And these marks are quite difficult to clean it after. Thanks for another great video!
fishmemmo - 🤔 i’m just guessing you’ll find that only happens with certain shoes. I apologize, I can’t really help you with this one! I’ve never had any experience with that.
@@CobblerBob thanks a lot for answering as usual anyway!! Have a good day!!
Nice job
Looks good. Looks tricky to place on the shoe once the contact adhesive is on the rubber sole as it curls up!
Yeah, I wasn’t expecting that!
Anyone know of orange sole protecters to match Santoni orange soles?
I don't off of the top of my head, but I'd browse eBay seller nordshoe, or try Amazon.
@@CobblerBob thanks
You think I would be able to do this to rubber soles on my boots?
Sounds From The Underground. - I’m flattered... but I’m not taking customers. I’m not set up for that! Any local cobbler would do it, but just specify exactly how you want it done (like in this case they are skived in flush) and specify exactly which kind of sole you want.
You need to hammer the air out from between the sole and protector. Starting from the inside moving out. Not sure what kind of cement you're using but you need to prep the surface better. If you're going to do it may as well do it right Bob.
1. I don't always show every step bc I sometimes feel my videos tend to be too long as it is. Yes, I do either put the shoes on the cobblers last and hammer the soles on, or just put the shoes on my feet and stand on them on carpet to press them on.
2. I used to use DAP Weldwood contact cement, now I use Master All Purpose Cement by Petronio
3. Those particular rubber protective half soles I used in this video I quit using, they're a bit too soft, too thin, and too floppy. Anyway, maybe prep could be better, I could be more disciplined with cleaning off the back of the rubber with alcohol, which I don't always do, but now that I switched to Masters and use a thicker 1mm to 1.5mm half sole, I have no adhesion problems.
And most importatnly, sorry for missing your comment.
This is a great video! Maybe next time letting the glue dry before cutting? I imagine it would be a little bit easier. Awesome job nonetheless
Great video bob, one question. What happens when you cut through the stitches? Also can you do any video exclusively on caring /cleaning stitches in future ? Thanks
garyp272727 - I assume when you say “cut through the stitches”, you mean when I skived the edge?
1. The stitches are recessed below the surface in a groove, so I actually did not cut through the stitches at all.
2. Even if you did, it would not be the end of the world. The way a Goodyear Welted stitch works, there’s a thread on the top side of the shoe and a thread on the bottom. They are looped around each other. It’s called a lock stitch. You can break the thread, and that “knot“ inside the hole will still hold, even after the thread is cut. Look at any Goodyear Welted shoe that has wear on it, and the sole will stay attached on even after you wear through the threads.
Yes, in one of my future cleanup videos that have a dirty welt, I’ll make sure to show that!
Thanks for the explanation. Yes that’s what I meant , when u cut through the line u had drawn on sole. Looking for the next video..
I believe to get it to stick you should apply some “hammer time” 😇
C&D General Services L-O-L!!
Do you think trying to put the half sole on with a shoe tree would be better?
I often use my cobblers last nowadays, but these shoes with the double oak sole are so sturdy it didn't really need the shoe tree, but yes, that would usually be a good idea.
Great video! Just a quick question, are there any resources out there to research Johnston and Murphy model numbers? Love to know what I’m looking at if I find a pair. Thanks again.
Rick DeWeese - I haven’t found any. Of course if it’s a model number still in use, you’ll find it on their current website. Outside of that, it seems to me that most of their model #s begin with 22-, but their upper end shoes (Aristocraft & Crown Aristocraft) begin with 24-. Styleforumhas some great threads, but finding the articles can be tough.
This video may help a little though in the meantime: ua-cam.com/video/pkbAdSJoq_o/v-deo.html
Very cool. I’ve been watching a bunch of your videos and thinking of buying a pair of AE. Do you still use the heel taps on the bottom? I know many people don’t like them.
YES I use them on almost all of my shoes. I like them! I use them because I often make sales calls outside and will walk in my dress shoes 5,000-10,000 steps on pavement. I'd rather replace a 50 cent pair of heel taps than a heel.
My best tips for buying AE's:
1. GET FITTED at a store! I can't tell you how many people I know that got professionally fitted for the first time and as a result found out they were actually not the shoe size they thought. Remember, AE has widths ranging from I believe AAA, AA, A, B, C, D, E, EE, and my favorite width EEE.
2. TAKE YOUR TIME. Don't go during a peak time. Go during the weekday during the day if you can and WEAR the shoe around the store for a while.
3. Have the shoe shipped to the STORE if it's not too far away, NOT your HOUSE. Go into the store and pick them up and UNBOX them THERE. AE has had some Quality issues... look for:
A) Odd wrinkles or creases
B) Unevenness between the shoes, such as the toe caps being crooked
C) Check that the welt to sole stitching does not run off of the welt anywhere on either shoe
4. Subscribe your email to their website. They have sales ALL the time. do NOT pay full price for AE's!
@@CobblerBob Thank you so much for the reply!!!! And thank you for all of this great advice. This made my week. I agree with you about the shoe taps. They make total sense to me. :)
When you cut a slight bit into the leather sole to allow the rubber sole guard to be flush, is that purely for aesthetics or if you did not cut the leather out to allow the rubber sole guard to be flush, the rubber sole guard may peel off prematurely?
Thank you for your videos, I learn a ton.
BOTH. I do believe doing that helps prevent it from peeling back off, for example when you put your feet up on the bars of a high barstool type chair, but it's mainly aesthetic. I'm glad they help! And SORRY for missing your comment! I'm tying to do a better job with this.
Great video thanks..I'll give it a go.
Just a couple of things: could the masking tape be left on, on the outer curve, so that when you spread the glue on you wouldn't have to worry about following the edge?
Also, would it be better to let the glue set before trimming off the edges?
Cheers
Bruce, SORRY for missing this comment, as well as a similar one you left on another half-sole video! You've watched AND commented on TWO, and I didn't ansewer you! I'm still getting the hang of the back end of UA-cam. Anyway,
YES, you certainly could leave tape on the outside edge of the sole, but I'm telling you, that contact cement comes off fairly effortlessly.
I'll copy the answer I wrote on the other video:
1. There is always some curve to the sole, especially near the edges of the shoe. I feel that trimming off the excess right away then lets you press the trimmed sole firmly onto the shoe without the extra overhanging. That extra hanging off won't let the sole take shape correctly, especially at the very front of the shoe at the tip of the toe.
2. If it lifts off a little bit when the glue is not set, you can just press it back on. If it lifts off while cutting after the glue is completely dry, I don't think it will re-adhere as well.
Hi,
Can you give us feedback on how well the rubber sole has held up?
Would you do anything different in the application?
Kind regards
Jason
SORRY for missing your comment! I just spent about 8 hours in the last couple days just replying to comments! Anyway, I replaced them in March of 2021, so I got 1-1/2 years out of them. I documented the replacement with some updates here:
ua-cam.com/video/8gyM5gOW_O8/v-deo.html
1. I now use a different material (SEE EDITED DESCRIPTION BELOW THIS VIDEO).
2. I now use Master All Purpose Cement by Petronio (SEE DESCRIPTION)
3. Now per the Master instructions on the can, I let the glue dry pretty well, then apply heat with a hair dryer on high heat to them right before applying.
4. I don't always show it if it's not a "how to" video, but I always press the rubber on by hammering it on, or by putting the shoes on and standing on them on carpet.
Really nice job, Robert! I think I might attempt this, and your efforts will be my guide. Your whittling was awesome. Perhaps you could pick up some Barge or other, thicker, contact cement on Amazon. Also, as I am never one to turn my back on a bad pun, why not make The Blues Brothers "I'm a (Sole) Man" your theme song for the intro? Keep up the great work!
Arthur Kurtz - 1. thank you! 2. Something to consider... 3. Haha! But all popular music is copyrighted, that’s why I use UA-cam Library.
How long should I wait til I add sole protectors? I just got my first pair of AE's because of your videos. Thanks!
Miguel Vargas - I would wait until you know you’re not going to return or exchange them for any reason. Just watch the sole wear... if the way you walk you wear off the tips of the toes, you don’t want to round off the sole edges at the front of the toe too much before you add on the protectors.
I have an Allen Edmonds leather boot, a First Avenue. I put some Mink Oil on it from Moneys-worth and Best. What do you think about mink oil on leather?
Kam L. - I use Saphir Renovateur, which is mink oil based. Great stuff!
Robert how did this half sole wear and how did your work hold up?
Weldon, They did their job! This video was recorded August of 2019. I replaced the half soles in a video recoreded March 2021, so I got a year and a half out of them. Leather soles would most likely have been thrashed before then. If you watch the video, you'll see they wern't in terrible shape either. I do believe the new half soles I put on are a little thicker, a little harder durometer, and therefore will last longer. Although I have been working from home most days since the start of Covid, pre-Covid I wore those shoes a LOT. I probably wore them 1-2 times a week, and often wore them on days I'd make outside sales calls where I would walk 8,000 to 10,000 steps (according to my phone) on pavement. I do wear these shoes in the damp and even light snow.
Here's the video with the replacement:
ua-cam.com/video/tuGfv3cS_z4/v-deo.html
that was useful Thanks
Thanks for the great video! With your experience, do you still recommend sanding
The sole of new shoes before applying glue? My shoes are brand new but the sole is not slick. It’s leather and has a velvet suede feel.
Patricia Murray - honestly, go check out some of the Professional cobblers channels, like Bedo’s leatherworks, or Trenton & Heath. I may do another video on this because I have noticed some problems with some of the rubber half soles peeling off either at the tip of the toes, the back edge closest to the heel, or the outer edge. I’ve noticed that heavier men have much more of a problem with them peeling off than me (I’ve applied them for several people at the office, and they seem to peel off much worse off of the heavy guys’ shoes). Based off of my experience and talking to pros, I think the best way to do it is to sand off the surface, even if the leather is new, and then apply 2 or maybe even 3 coats of glue. I’ve noticed that once you sand the leather, the first coat of glue will soak into the leather and almost disappear. It will not be enough. You’ve got to put several coats on any areas you break the leather. Also, the professionals use Masters All Purpose Quick Drying Cement, or Barge cement. Both are available through eBay through the seller “nordshoe”. I think it’s a stronger glue than the DAP I’ve used before. Also, when you sand the sole, you get a nice square edge on it. I have found that if there’s any rounding at the edge of the leather sole, there will be a gap there, and the rubber half sole will not adhere well at that spot, and will be more prone to peeling off. I hope that helps.
@@CobblerBob Please do another video with what you learned. It's very helpful. I have about four shoes I need to do this on and getting it professionally done is too pricy an option.
I agree. That’s why I’m trying to learn.
Very helpful. I’ll keep watching for more tips.
How long will those soles last with normal wear and rotation? This should help extend the life of the shoe by years.
Stephen Funk - we will find out! I’ll update y’all with a report when they wear through. I have put the Goodyear protective soles on a dozen of my other shoes. I probably started doing it 3-4 years ago. I wear my McAllisters that I bought Sept 2017 about once a week, and often walk outside several miles in them. They are 2 yrs old and still have the 1st pair of Goodyears on them. That being said, I KNOW the ones in this video will NOT last as long. They’re about half to 2/3 the thickness of the Goodyears.
Looks like you let the glue set up a little too long. You can reactivate it with some heat from a hair dryer if that happens.
In this case you could be right, but I also think how thin and floppy these half soles were was part of the problem. They curled up weird after applying glue. I edied the description, I now use Masters All Purpose Cement, and also have started using heat. You're right, it helps.
Need some Bezos Hammer time!
LOL, yes, Steve is my virtual mentor!
i was watching a video by pro cobblers (v=-jytSL-euDY) and they use multiple coats of glue after sanding and scoring a fresh sole
since you have some Bostonians made in the usa how do you compare the cuality vs todays Johnson and Murphy optima .
Samuel Isaac Medina Jaquez - The last a pair of J&M Optimas I have seen were purchased by an office mate prob in late 2017 or early 2018. I think the company has done even more outsourcing since then, so my information may not be current. That being said, the older made in USA Bostonians are amazing! Nobody wants to buy them on eBay, but I did an entire video on Thrifting Bostonians, you may want to check it out. Therefore they’re worthless to buy to resell on eBay, but they’re great shoes to purchase and wear. They have a good quality leather on the soles, many of them have full grain uppers, and 360° Goodyear Welting.
Oh, also, I forgot to say, in some ways I’d say they are better than Johnston and percent Murphy Optimas. I’ve seen Optimas made with both full grain leather and with corrected grain. So in some ways I would say some of the old Macedonians are better. Can’t make a blanket statement though, but I would say the Bostonians quality went down when they started producing them overseas.
@Robert Powers - thank you for the videos. You started me into higher end shows. To see a real UK Cobbler, checkout "Tring Shoe Repair." He uses heat activated glue for soles. He also hammers the half sole on an anvil to ensure contact on the edges and uses a hydraulic press. It would be interesting to see the quality of materials you can get vs what a cobbler gets. Also the cost. How much did you save by doing it yourself and was it the same quality. A few video ideas: Get a pieces of full grain leather and corrected leather belt and put in a clear glass bottle with acetone. Observe over a week. Try to polish the corrected leather after the finish is removed. Another video idea, do sample shopping on eBay for pre-owned shoes - show what to look for - what can and cannot be cheaply repaired. and what to avoid.
Good video as usual. I have to ask- why not get rubber soles on your shoes when buying them? If you answer "they don't look as good", I'll barf.
Ace Electric Company - because the leather soled MacNeils were $175 off!
That's a great reason!
IMO - in some cases the leather is more comfortable and flexible than rubber sole. Got my AEs with leather because that was the case vs Dainite.
Have you thought about having the shoes shrink wrapped. :-) That is really an ugly addition to the shoe. It reminds me of my parents wrapping all the good furniture with plastic. Yes it protects it but then why own quality shoes? Sorry, I live in the mid-west too and when we have bad weather their are other options that are still classy. I was trying to be funny but at the same time truthful. I do like watching and learning.
LOL, to each their own.
Amazing #cobblerbob!
Sunny, you’re too kind!
They have these on clearance right now, but I want the black ones. I have to wait and see if they go on sale too
How do you find these holding up Bob?
Got 1.5 yrs out of them often walking on pavement and wearing them about once a week. Here's the replacement:
ua-cam.com/video/8gyM5gOW_O8/v-deo.html
Buy a bench grinder
and thats why you just pay a cobbler lol
Paying a cobbler:
1. They're not all good so it can be a gamble
2. Assuming they are good... YES, you will get a better result than your first or second or even probably your 3rd time. So if an immediate result is your goal, I agree, DON'T DIY.
BUT... if you have an intense desire to figure it out and do it yourself... If you have a drive to get good at a craft, DIY! This video was released Aug 2019. I released the following video March of 2021, and I'm sure you'll see I got pretty damn good at my craft in between:
ua-cam.com/video/8gyM5gOW_O8/v-deo.html
As I type this it's Dec 2021, and I just released a video showing a FULL resole with a V-Cleat heel re-created on a vintage pair of Florshiem Royal Imperials, and I am confident in saying that the result was on par with professional cobblers. Not better than or on par with the BEST pros like Steve from Bedos, but on par with most of them out there.
ua-cam.com/video/6Td2yaMBnKw/v-deo.html
robert. a nice video but you do a few things wrong. you should never place the shoe between your legs and then cut into the sole. Place the shoe on a table, otherwise you will cut your leg. You must roughen the leather sole with rough sandpaper and glue the leather soles twice. good luck. grtz from a cobbler.
Noted.
Never, never, never, NEVER do that to your soles. Cutting into soles and glueing rubber or any other type of “protective” stuff is like cutting out the heart of the shoes. The value of those Allen Edmonds goes literally to Zero. 🤷♂️
Thomas, I appreciate your opinion, but I whole heartedly disagree. This is IMHO not a "right vs wrong" discussion, but PREFERENCE. Obviously there are "Purists" that hate putting anything on top of a rubber sole, but I find it terribly convenient and useful, especially on a LWB with a storm welt and a double oak sole. I live in an area that gets snow in the winter, and a decent amount of rain from October through May. I also find that the modern base leather doesn't hold up very well on concrete. It's not uncommon for me to wear these shoes for 8,000 steps in a day on concrete. As far as "value", I couldn't care less. These are shoes I WEAR, and USE. These shoes will only get sold if I die, so their "value" lies solely in their usefulness to me, period. PS, check out pro cobblers on YT or Instagram like @procobblers, @Cobblersplusco, @cobblersunny: they ALL put on rubber protective half soles and cut them in just like this. I'm now to the point where on some of my shoes I've replaced the topy twice because I simply wore through them, and it's saved me the cost of several resoles. That being said, I've got a pair of black cap toe Oxfords I wear to funerals, etc, and a pair of Polo single monk straps with a narrowed waist & partially blind stitched soles that I absolutely will not put topy on because it wouldn't look right, but I don't use those shoes as a "workhorse". Again, I believe this is preference issue, NOT a right vs wrong issue. Don't do it if you don't like it. I certainly hope we can disagree on this point without being disagreeable, and without disliking each other.
What a bloody mess he makes of it. Never 🤮
LOL, I get this comment infrequently, but regularly. It still amuses me. Is it really that big of a deal?
The worst resole i ever see too bad is expensive shoes everything is wrong go to shoemaker is better for the shoes...
Thank you sir, may I have another.
Nice job