This video was awesome, thanks so much for posting and taking the time to show cutting with different tools. I hate videos where they use all these fancy tools the average person doesn't have
A trick I learned to eliminate the use of epoxy, and keep balusters from rattling, is to drill the pocket hole slightly off plumb. Once the baluster is inserted it takes a slight amount of pressure to bring it over into alignment with the bottom hole and, when dropped in, the baluster is held in tension against the sides of both top and bottom holes. Very simple and effective without the need for adhesives or fasteners.
A video on your instructions above? This would be valuable since most iron baluster install videos use adhesives/epoxy to keep balusters from rattling. Please?
Just drill your hole all the way through drop the baulaster thru then up tight and then I drive a screw in the hole to pin it. This also saves have to cut them. Been doing it this way for 15 years and never have had a call back.
When I’m at this stage I make a story pole cut to length from newel post to top of cap. I lay out my 5 1/2” spacing on this stick and use it to transfer my marks on both the cap and the underside of the rail. Balusters are perfectly plumb every time. Sometimes I’ll temp the rail in place and lay it on the stair nosings to drill the holes before permanently securing it in place.
This is helpful... but my project has that balusters going all the way to the ceiling, and we're doing wood 2x2s. Do I just use wooden peg inserts and wood glue instead of epoxy?
I think this is a great video. Thank you for sharing. Just one comment/question: if you need 11 balusters then you need 12 spaces, right? After measuring the length of the shoeboard shouldn't you divide that length by 12 instead of 11?
If you did 5.5 inches centre to centre with a .5 inch baluster, you would have 5 inches of space in between the balusters and therefore, not to code. At .22 on the video you said to stay at 4.5 inches on centre. Then you measured the rake at 64 inches and divided by 11 and came up with 5.5 and then measured that with your compass. So. I'm a bit confused. I know this video is old but were you saying 5.5 and actually measuring 4.5? Thanks for this video as it's hard to find videos for finding these measurements without having a main frame computer to figure out the math! As well, you measured from the top of the hole in the handrail and to the top of the stringer and came up with 31.5 inches. But don't you have to add whatever amount the baluster goes into the handrail and into the stringer?
That was 5.5 on the slope. If you measure once installed, they would be within code. Rewind and watch his first measurement. Roughly 50” level (side to side). This is the important measurement that matters. Divide that by 4.5 and you get 11 balusters. Measure the bottom slope and he got 64” and divided by 11 balusters. That just gives you the spacing on the slope for your banisters. Hope that helps.
Why not cut out all the laser and level use for spacing and just measure from wall down or post up, if both are plumb the distance on both rakes would be the same.
You can't push a tape into an acute angle like that and measure accurately as the hook prevents the tape from reaching the intersection. Also, there's no way that handrail is right - at 5:00 you can clearly see it's not at the same pitch as the panelling behind - I noted other measuring mistakes in the video prior to this one and I'll bet that's what caused this error.
dcooper0011 the knee wall may be built on a 40° but the actual staircase maybe slightly different. what your seeing is to slopes at 2 slightly different degrees
I'm actually really surprised you don't wear safety glasses at all times. Shouldn't you be displaying better safety measures? It's a good video but sometimes you wear the glasses and sometimes you don't
Stop it with the safety policing... Always 1 person has to be unhappy. We all know these are dangerous tools and dangerous work. It's not for the fain of heart. If you wish to wear safety goggles so be it I won't hold you accountable. But why you think it's normal to call out pple that don't is beyond me...
This video was awesome, thanks so much for posting and taking the time to show cutting with different tools. I hate videos where they use all these fancy tools the average person doesn't have
Hii
How r u ?
A trick I learned to eliminate the use of epoxy, and keep balusters from rattling, is to drill the pocket hole slightly off plumb. Once the baluster is inserted it takes a slight amount of pressure to bring it over into alignment with the bottom hole and, when dropped in, the baluster is held in tension against the sides of both top and bottom holes. Very simple and effective without the need for adhesives or fasteners.
A video on your instructions above? This would be valuable since most iron baluster install videos use adhesives/epoxy to keep balusters from rattling. Please?
Just drill your hole all the way through drop the baulaster thru then up tight and then I drive a screw in the hole to pin it. This also saves have to cut them. Been doing it this way for 15 years and never have had a call back.
Using epoxy or strong adhesive is always best, A screw can be used in some situations to hold in place, but still good to also use adhesive with it
What molding is used for capping the wall where the ballusters go into
Is that black epoxy or it's just the color of the plastic tip?
When I’m at this stage I make a story pole cut to length from newel post to top of cap. I lay out my 5 1/2” spacing on this stick and use it to transfer my marks on both the cap and the underside of the rail. Balusters are perfectly plumb every time. Sometimes I’ll temp the rail in place and lay it on the stair nosings to drill the holes before permanently securing it in place.
This is helpful... but my project has that balusters going all the way to the ceiling, and we're doing wood 2x2s. Do I just use wooden peg inserts and wood glue instead of epoxy?
I think this is a great video. Thank you for sharing.
Just one comment/question: if you need 11 balusters then you need 12 spaces, right?
After measuring the length of the shoeboard shouldn't you divide that length by 12 instead of 11?
I was thinking that as well, but i think the last space towards the top isn't counted because it's very short.
Great instruction! I'm redoing my knee wall rail system and this is super helpful. Thanks!
I use a drop plumb. To center and mark the top as it lines up with the bottom. Gravity helps
What kind of epoxy should you use?
What kind of laser level is that?
What is that epoxy gun brand? I do need 1 of those...
Love the retrofit vacuum assistant!
In a residential setting, where a hand rail is not necessary, do you need the guard rail to be at a handrail height ( Florida 38 inches)?
What size spade bit would you use for 3/4 inch spindle. 3/4 would be really tight but hard to get into place . 13/16?
Thanks for taking the time to post this video.
What kind of laser level are you using
It looks like it's a Stanley Fatmax 77-189 plumb bob
What kind of epoxy do you use?
THANK YOU!!! Ive been trying to figure this out for a long time. Much appreciated.
Great 👍🏻.. whats model for Dewalt laser level?
It looks like it's a Stanley Fatmax 77-189 plumb bob
Try the Iron Pro brackets.... much easier and looks great !
Which drill was used for drilling the holes going up?
Did you have to cut the ballast Shoes?
If the balusters are say 10mm, would you typically use a 10mm drill bit or one that's slightly larger?
10mm is about the same as 1/2" , square peg in a round hole = 11/16 drill
By “most ppl won’t have these tools” he meant me 🤚 lol but very good video
It was a little confusing in the measurement. You said something about 4 1/4” distance and then measured 5 inches per baluster?
Thank you so much for this
What brand/model is that epoxy gun?
The epoxy and gun are sold on our websiteadvancedstaircase.com
The waistcoat and the hand rail are different angles
The wainscot was existing and the rail needs to follow the stair angle
If you did 5.5 inches centre to centre with a .5 inch baluster, you would have 5 inches of space in between the balusters and therefore, not to code. At .22 on the video you said to stay at 4.5 inches on centre. Then you measured the rake at 64 inches and divided by 11 and came up with 5.5 and then measured that with your compass. So. I'm a bit confused. I know this video is old but were you saying 5.5 and actually measuring 4.5? Thanks for this video as it's hard to find videos for finding these measurements without having a main frame computer to figure out the math! As well, you measured from the top of the hole in the handrail and to the top of the stringer and came up with 31.5 inches. But don't you have to add whatever amount the baluster goes into the handrail and into the stringer?
That was 5.5 on the slope. If you measure once installed, they would be within code. Rewind and watch his first measurement. Roughly 50” level (side to side). This is the important measurement that matters. Divide that by 4.5 and you get 11 balusters. Measure the bottom slope and he got 64” and divided by 11 balusters. That just gives you the spacing on the slope for your banisters. Hope that helps.
even narrower in UK 4inch here so the kiddywinks can't get through them
Why not cut out all the laser and level use for spacing and just measure from wall down or post up, if both are plumb the distance on both rakes would be the same.
Laser use is so that you get a dead center top to bottom. Makes it much easier then measuring upside down on handrail. To most...
This would not save any time. Only up the chances of errors during the repetitive measuring process.
Thank you..so helpful.
What make is the drill with the built in level?
The drill is a Dewalt
Advanced Staircase thank you. What is the model number of it. I can’t seem to locate it.
This one is Dewalt - DWD110. Keep in mind that will not help when drilling the holes going up
Sandra Ambler dewalt
You can't push a tape into an acute angle like that and measure accurately as the hook prevents the tape from reaching the intersection. Also, there's no way that handrail is right - at 5:00 you can clearly see it's not at the same pitch as the panelling behind - I noted other measuring mistakes in the video prior to this one and I'll bet that's what caused this error.
what size holes for top and bottom on a fresh install
1/2 inch usually
For a 1/2" square bar you will need an 11/16" hole to put a square peg in a round hole
Nice job thanks for info......
Something don't seem right. Visually the rail doesn't line up with the moulding on the wall.
dcooper0011 the knee wall may be built on a 40° but the actual staircase maybe slightly different. what your seeing is to slopes at 2 slightly different degrees
The rail needs to follow the stair angle and the trim was not part of this project
In my first work I always used Woodglut plans.
Plumb*
Put your rail on top of knee wall and just transfer the marks that’s what I do
u stole the idea of my name
I'm actually really surprised you don't wear safety glasses at all times. Shouldn't you be displaying better safety measures? It's a good video but sometimes you wear the glasses and sometimes you don't
Stop it with the safety policing... Always 1 person has to be unhappy.
We all know these are dangerous tools and dangerous work. It's not for the fain of heart. If you wish to wear safety goggles so be it I won't hold you accountable. But why you think it's normal to call out pple that don't is beyond me...
Waste of space comment
ur mean