Thanks for having this on here Greendot. I’ve just had to take mine out - for the first time since the rebuild when I only had to install it on the chassis without a tub so was easy. If I’d tried it just relying on the manual - without the bellhousing - I’d never have got it out I think, and probably not in again. So very useful thanks.
Hi Greendot, I have worked on several jeep gearboxes and on most of them the rear shaft nut is loose, remember the bearing tightens against a skinny snap ring , not a good idea. KBO Roger.
You mention that you have trouble with the radiator hose clamps sealing 100%. Here is a few tips that work. The pipes that the hoses clamp onto, usually are painted and the paint peels here and there, creating high and low spots that allow the antifreeze to leak out. Sand those areas smooth and repaint the pipes so that the paint is smooth. If you still have a leaky hose a small thin layer of permatex #2 will seal it. I put it on the inside of the hose about where the clamp goes. Used in moderation, it will end those pesky leaks!
Man, it looks cold there! Can't believe you're still out there turning wrenches. My hands don't work in that temperature! When you get a second, I'm on the G user name "roblenzz". Under "photo gallery" tab "1942 GPW 25212." I pulled one out of a barn a few years ago and am nearing the finish of my build.
Hi Rob, I have seen your thread on the Gee and you're doing some great work. It must be a great feeling to discover a jeep yourself and bring it back to life, unfortunately very rare to be able to find jeep projects yourself in the UK that aren't total junk! I flew into Jacksonville many years ago at night, what a different climate to the UK, amazing the varied conditions these jeeps live and work in!
You deserve a medal for working in those conditions ! I notice that there is a hole in the high/low 4WD cross shaft is it that the cross shaft was installed the wrong way around ? or have you drilled it for a slide hammer extraction ? The castellated nut, could it be that as it is secured by a split pin, when it was tightened as the pin would not pass through the nut was jogged back rather than forward. Will you replace the cutch lining while you are this far into the strip down, don't want to go there again !Have you got a spare nose shaft to align the clutch when you re assemble it all, there is nothing worst than laying under there trying to enter the shaft into a misaligned clutch ! You are fortunate to have an assistant. Chris B.
Hi Chris, thanks for the input. I don't recall the hole in the transfer lever pin, do you mean the end with hole for the zerk fitting? I think you've hit the nail on the head for the castle nut, I must have backed it off to fit the pin, this appears to have been a mistake, a lower torque setting and pushing it forward rather than back seems to be the correct way of doing it, another learning point. My clutch is good fortunately but I shall be changing the pilot bushing which I shall cover. As I am replacing the nose shaft I now have it as an alignment tool which is a great help!
Backing off the nut to find the next hole is something you only need to have done once ! You will never do it again, this is one of the problems of the split pin, although the cross drilled hole should be available as it is 1/6 of a turn around the circumference. Yes it is the nipple tapping that I can probably see, if you centre drill a hole in the other end you can easily get a slide hammer attached and pull the pin out from the inner end without getting near the body panel. Glad the clutch lining is new, I away find it a good policy to replace the lot if I am in there, you do not want to do it all again, that said I replaced the whole lot on a Ser III Land Rover and 3 months later the new thrust bearing seized up, it was of course Winter by that time, I had ,by bad luck, been sold a pattern made part ! Another lesson learned.
It will be the zerk/grease nipple. I'm not sure that you can pull the pin out from the transmission side, the transmission gets in the way? I'm going to be discussing repro parts a lot in the coming videos. It appears to me that the key to these transmissions is quality parts, they are available but they need searching out and they cost money....
Greendot 310: The pin will not come out with the gearbox top on, but I am sure that once the top is removed the pin will come out over the top of the gearbox case, it would have saved you all the trouble of lowering the box with the change levers still attached to the transfer case, with the inherant risk of breaking the casting, one hopes it will not require removing again, but you just never know, I can see you are a person that likes to think ahead. Chris B.
9:38 I belive the nut is very shallow in that location, because of te variuos accessories that bolt on to the transfercase there ... the transmissions add on 4th gear Overdrive Unit, bolts there, and the PTO drive attachment ... I'm thinking perhaps the extra clearance is needed for thoese parts.
Hi, I have looked for a video on how to rebuild my T84. I know you have several. However, I cannot find a where they show how all the parts start to finish fit together and which order the videos go in. Please help! Thanks!!!
Thanks for having this on here Greendot. I’ve just had to take mine out - for the first time since the rebuild when I only had to install it on the chassis without a tub so was easy. If I’d tried it just relying on the manual - without the bellhousing - I’d never have got it out I think, and probably not in again. So very useful thanks.
I'm rebuilding my own GPW right now and your videos are a great help, thanks !
No Problem, glad to help!
Hi Greendot, I have worked on several jeep gearboxes and on most of them the rear shaft nut is loose, remember the bearing tightens against a skinny snap ring , not a good idea. KBO Roger.
That is another good point, I think there are a number of factors to the things I am finding with these transmissions
You mention that you have trouble with the radiator hose clamps sealing 100%. Here is a few tips that work. The pipes that the hoses clamp onto, usually are painted and the paint peels here and there, creating high and low spots that allow the antifreeze to leak out. Sand those areas smooth and repaint the pipes so that the paint is smooth. If you still have a leaky hose a small thin layer of permatex #2 will seal it. I put it on the inside of the hose about where the clamp goes. Used in moderation, it will end those pesky leaks!
Man, it looks cold there! Can't believe you're still out there turning wrenches. My hands don't work in that temperature! When you get a second, I'm on the G user name "roblenzz". Under "photo gallery" tab "1942 GPW 25212." I pulled one out of a barn a few years ago and am nearing the finish of my build.
Hi Rob, I have seen your thread on the Gee and you're doing some great work. It must be a great feeling to discover a jeep yourself and bring it back to life, unfortunately very rare to be able to find jeep projects yourself in the UK that aren't total junk! I flew into Jacksonville many years ago at night, what a different climate to the UK, amazing the varied conditions these jeeps live and work in!
You deserve a medal for working in those conditions ! I notice that there is a hole in the high/low 4WD cross shaft is it that the cross shaft was installed the wrong way around ? or have you drilled it for a slide hammer extraction ? The castellated nut, could it be that as it is secured by a split pin, when it was tightened as the pin would not pass through the nut was jogged back rather than forward. Will you replace the cutch lining while you are this far into the strip down, don't want to go there again !Have you got a spare nose shaft to align the clutch when you re assemble it all, there is nothing worst than laying under there trying to enter the shaft into a misaligned clutch ! You are fortunate to have an assistant. Chris B.
Hi Chris, thanks for the input. I don't recall the hole in the transfer lever pin, do you mean the end with hole for the zerk fitting? I think you've hit the nail on the head for the castle nut, I must have backed it off to fit the pin, this appears to have been a mistake, a lower torque setting and pushing it forward rather than back seems to be the correct way of doing it, another learning point. My clutch is good fortunately but I shall be changing the pilot bushing which I shall cover. As I am replacing the nose shaft I now have it as an alignment tool which is a great help!
Backing off the nut to find the next hole is something you only need to have done once ! You will never do it again, this is one of the problems of the split pin, although the cross drilled hole should be available as it is 1/6 of a turn around the circumference. Yes it is the nipple tapping that I can probably see, if you centre drill a hole in the other end you can easily get a slide hammer attached and pull the pin out from the inner end without getting near the body panel. Glad the clutch lining is new, I away find it a good policy to replace the lot if I am in there, you do not want to do it all again, that said I replaced the whole lot on a Ser III Land Rover and 3 months later the new thrust bearing seized up, it was of course Winter by that time, I had ,by bad luck, been sold a pattern made part ! Another lesson learned.
It will be the zerk/grease nipple. I'm not sure that you can pull the pin out from the transmission side, the transmission gets in the way? I'm going to be discussing repro parts a lot in the coming videos. It appears to me that the key to these transmissions is quality parts, they are available but they need searching out and they cost money....
Greendot 310: The pin will not come out with the gearbox top on, but I am sure that once the top is removed the pin will come out over the top of the gearbox case, it would have saved you all the trouble of lowering the box with the change levers still attached to the transfer case, with the inherant risk of breaking the casting, one hopes it will not require removing again, but you just never know, I can see you are a person that likes to think ahead. Chris B.
9:38 I belive the nut is very shallow in that location, because of te variuos accessories that bolt on to the transfercase there ... the transmissions add on 4th gear Overdrive Unit, bolts there, and the PTO drive attachment ... I'm thinking perhaps the extra clearance is needed for thoese parts.
Would it be easier to undo the body bolts and jack up the body ?
Hi, I have looked for a video on how to rebuild my T84. I know you have several. However, I cannot find a where they show how all the parts start to finish fit together and which order the videos go in. Please help! Thanks!!!
👍 👍 👍!!!
Fram filter in a GPW?
Correct for a late GPW ;)